Please, never buy generic or bad PSU. They will fuck your PC, and your life

look at silverstone, last i saw they were the best by far

EVGA makes good shit

Man, Seasonic have had some bad PSUs over te years. Mostly they're okay though.

EVGA have some very good PSUs but there are a few that are maximum A V O I D

What? I literally only know 1 bad Seasonic psu and it was antec branded.

WHat is the point of these threads? Is there really a person that doesn't know how to build a PC?

Don't buy anything that doesn't have a letter in the name (e.g. 430W, 500W, 600W)
The B series (500B, 600B, 700B) are a little bit better than okay, but they're dirt fucking cheap and will work
The *1 and *S (e.g. G1, PS) series are great
GQ and *2 (e.g. G2, P2, T2, etc) are all top tier

You would be surprised how bad people are with parts selection.

Really? The only issues I have ever seen people have is forgetting to put in the stand-offs, or debating which GPU to buy.

What about Corsair's (CWT) high-end PSUs ?
Like, the HXi and AXi lineup.

Stick around for a few threads.

>Really? The only issues I have ever seen people have is forgetting to put in the stand-offs, or debating which GPU to buy.
90% of the thread is debating what GPUs/CPUs for given budget.

Once I build a PC, I forget about the tech until I need to build another one and then everything has changed. If you don't keep up with everything, it can be hard to know how to select stuff.

>What about Corsair's (CWT) high-end PSUs ?
>Like, the HXi and AXi lineup.
I don't have an opinion but maybe someone else does.

I had a seasonic x750 and it fucked my board up along with 3 gtx 770s. Never buying anything other than evga ever again. I'm surprised by how much seasonic gets shilled here. Never would have thought that I would be the one to pay the price. I got rmas on the board and psu. Sold them and pretty much changed my whole setup. Unfortunately I couldn't do anything about the cards. IF THEY WERE EVGA CARDS I COULD'VE GOTTEN THEM ALL REPLACED.
Literally the only manufacturer I know that let's you take apart your gpu and and still allows for returns. As long as it's in warranty, it's pretty much no questions asked.

I know I sound like an evga shill but God dam am I impressed by their PSU's, GPU's and their product policies.

You know EVGA doesn't actually make power supplies, right?

Question: I currently have a 144hz monitor and Im upgrading to a 1070 in a month to play on 1440p on a 60hz monitor.

Would it be possible to play 144hz favoured games (CSGO, League) on the 144hz monitor and then switch to the second monitor at 1440p for AAA titles? What would it take to do this?

Forgot to mention I also had a spare cx 750m on hand for when I got rid of the seasonic. That worked flawlessly for 2 weeks and then it ran into problems. The fan would kick into 100% after only a few seconds of load. So yea, I'm pretty much all for evga PSUs only now.

Just set the screen you want to use in the Nvidia control panel

Really? Then who do they rebrand from?

But if you mean get individual games to boot up on individual monitors depending on what you pick I don't think there's a way to actually do this without doing it manually every time.

I know that the GQ series is made by FSP, a company that's been around longer than Seasonic.

Most newer games now allow you to choose which monitor to display from. Other than that just do what this user says
Also, has no one ever wondered why splitscreen on pc is so limited? I would love if you could just have 1 display for each player.

some are seasonic rebrands, most are super flower iirc

go with the asus, mate. thats what I'm probably gonna do. never owned an IPS monitor before anyway

Isn't seasonic just a rebrand of xfx though?
That's interesting to note. I mean, I'd still choose evga simply for the warranty policies alone. If anything happens, you're pretty much covered since it seems everything is just a rebrand of a rebrand...

I'd go with the ACER. In all honesty they're pretty much the same though. Only reason I'd choose the acer is simply because I've heard amazing things about the predator line. I think just the other year they had objectively the best monitor available at the time. Dam thing cost over 1k.

All my monitors are ips now. I can't go back to TN anymore. Anytime I use a laptop or desktop with a TN panel, I cringe a bit. The colors are so much more alive on an ips. Even the sub $150 ips monitors are amazing. The colors were literally better than my TVs and projectors(optoma hd26). I usually duplicate the displays sometimes to share the screen and I honestly couldn't believe how different it was.

Its the other way around, xfx uses seasonic psus

>But if you mean get individual games to boot up on individual monitors depending on what you pick I don't think there's a way to actually do this without doing it manually every time.
Sounds like the kind of thing you could find or write a util to do.

I wrote a C# tool to move a program to a specific screen and maximise it borderless windowed. That was so that I could alt-tab from a game to do shit and not fuck up resolution.

Having that run as a service and move named programs when it sees them would be pretty easy.

I'm looking for a quality, quiet case fan that isn't specialized for pressure or airflow. I bought into the static pressure intake whatsis and holy fuck, the amount of air they push sucks at low RPMs. I'm thinking about getting Noctua redux fans. Is there anything bad about these fans and are there better options at the same price point (~$15)?

>go with the asus, mate. thats what I'm probably gonna do. never owned an IPS monitor before anyway
>I'd go with the ACER
Interestingly, I JUST found another one.
AOC AG271QG

I'm probably going to go with that because it's around $200 cheaper than Asus and $100 cheaper than Acer. Probably because it's a Chinese made version of them. Am translating and reading reviews right now to see whether I'll regret it. The local tech markets might have some on display too so I'll check that out.

Yeah, viewing angles piss me off. I move around too much I guess. But then I want to be able to move around and not have to adjust my monitor because I sat up because shit got interesting.

How about this?

s12ii-520

it was listed as tier 2? is it safe to overclock with this PSU?

i use my corsair cx600m for my gtx 1080 build and it's fine...it's not as bad as the reputation it gets.

Good luck. Only reason I never got AOC was because they usually don't have vesa mounts. That's probably changed by now.
>VESA mount holes being a deal breaker
Yes... Yes it is.

Open standards are good, don't feel guilty.

been using an 860w 29 aud psu for 4 years now with no issues, gtx 670+i5 2500, so go get fucked you lying consumer whore shitstain

Is the corsair 80+ gold full modular rm550x reliable?

I have one since march, powering an i7 6700 and zotac gtx 1070 amp

didn't overclock anything but it works like a charm

what annoyed me was the short 4/8pin cpu cable, the psu is at the bottom of the case and my motherboard has this connector at the very top, I have to run the cable over the video card

>Anytime I use a laptop or desktop with a TN panel, I cringe a bit.
this is gonna fuck my shit up then since I'm gonna have an IPS as my main monitor and to the right its gonna be a TN

Just buy rosewill and you will be okay.

The era you fradiay guns tuya lo geurif dera tulain 中央处理器

>>VESA mount holes being a deal breaker
I can see that, wall mounted monitors are cool and you can do all sorts of things with after market stands/frames/whatever.

How are the cases like in the OP called? I could build one or maybe just get one and mod it to save some work. I've seen some with a water cooling system in their tunes.

Share that thing then. I know shit about coding and I don't plan to learn until next year.

EVGA 450w PSU good in your opinion?

I posted in last thread about the power pins not going all the way in, working on it Sat.

>Low end PSUs and BQ series are by HEC
>Nex, B1, G1 and GQ series are by FSP
>GS and PS series are by Seasonic
>G2, P2 and T2 series are by Super Flower

>2016
>not using your motherboard as a stressed chassis member

>Share that thing then. I know shit about coding and I don't plan to learn until next year.
Then you're not going to adapt my util into a service that autowatches new processes.

You could compile it though, so ok, have a rarpeg.

If you need help, ask in the /dpt/, not here.

I know this is shit posting but I'm fuckin lost

I've had a 620w HX corsair PSU for more than 6 years now (maybe even 7 already) and it's chugging along just fine, had a 290 and currently a fury x plugged into it

great PSU, my next PSU will basically be a 750w one

Absolutely buttery PSU
Delicious voltage ripple,
Quiet as
10/10

>bad or generic
Thoughts on the cx430? Im latin american so on first thought this is premium quality, cheap or generic here means a 7$ psu included in a 15$ case, or the bare no name psu at 8$…

psu r a mem

That didn't work and Cred Forums doesn't like rarpegs anymore.

the cx 430 can work but it's way too expensive for what it is. the cheapest PSU I'd go with that is decent value is the antec vp 450 or the evga 430 if you want someone with that wattage

>evga 430
Cool, its avaliable here and a bit cheaper than the corsair.

I think the old HX series were manufactured by Seasonic, not CWT.

That said, I did recently buy an HX750i. I originally wanted the 650 (or was it 660 ?) watt platinum one from Seasonic, but being out of stock literally everywhere I looked, I ended up thinking "how wrong can you go with 80+ platinum anyway" and went with the HX750i.

Seems good so far, even if it is completely overkill for my system that pulls a whopping 330W from the wall under full load on both CPU and GPU. Though it's pretty neat that the PSU won't ever turn its fan off since I can't hit the 440W threshold for that.
Maybe that will change once I get a 1070 in December or January, I don't know.

I hope it'll last at least 7 years too.

The new HXi are awesome units, on par with the G2s which are top tier.

Here you go:
filetea me /t1sp07HHQHVSxyZa6SiC3HkWQ

so it's better to not skimp out on a PSU and just spend >150 euros on one for the sake of it lasting long and not blowing up?

Yes, it will likely also have higher efficiency which means lower power bills and less noise.

>so it's better to not skimp out on a PSU and just spend >150 euros on one for the sake of it lasting long and not blowing up?
What's the worst case scenario?

I've blown a mobo because a CPU plug came loose, a lot of builders have similar stories. You should probably listen to people on this one.

Yeah.
Maybe not go full on overkill like I did with an HX750i for a 330W max system unless you specifically plan to upgrade your system a lot, but you should at the very least get something 80+ Gold rated from a reputable brand/manufacturer.

Personally, I set a budget and went with the best I could find within that budget. The PSU I ended up with makes very little sense for my build *right now*, but it has room for all the expansion I could want. As is, I have 5 out of its 12 SATA power connectors going unused, and I plan to occupy all of them further down the line. I will also be upgrading to a 7700k sometime in 2017, along with the aforementioned 1070, so overdimensioning my PSU now made sense to me.

>I will also be upgrading to a 7700k sometime in 2017, along with the aforementioned 1070,
The great thing is that newer C/GPU's use less power as well.

Yeah, and they both have a higher (or equal) TDP than my current stuff.
Not by much, but still.
There's the possibility of adding in another 1070 later on too, but mostly the 12 SATA connectors are important.
I realize it's still an unnecessary amount of wattage, but that is partly the point, as well as a side effect of having the connectors I wanted.

eh I have a 750w PSU.

I watched so many guides on how to build a pc and not a singe one mentioned anything about stand-offs. Neither the case nor the motherboard manual enlightened me. Eventually realised what to do but that took some time. Rest went really well for first build.

>CPU/Mobo
333$ for an old cpu? do you want to buy it new or do you already have it? if you buy it new get a 6600k + z170 board for like 30-40$ more(only applys if you don´t do video/photoshopstuff etc ever day and need the i7)

>Cpucooler
Don´t buy the corsair H100i, you want to get an Aircooler which is better/same and costs lest aka Noctuna Poofan or Phantek PH-TC14PE for like 30$ less and only like 1°C warmer. (don´t forget to buy extra thermalpaste) you should look if it fits into the case tho!

>mobo
>B85m
I don´t know, this is not really an OC board as far as I know it could still be possible to OC but don´t exprect the board to go massiv length also I think you need an Bios update(google for that)

>ram
you can stick in DDR4-3000MHz with that z170

>GPU
Also you can get a 1060 6gb for like 20-30$ more and better futureproofing cus 6gb

>PSU
EVGA Supernova G2 650W or Seasonic Platinum 660XP 660W or SeaSonic SSR-650TD PRIME best on market but cost 20$ more lehappymerchant.jpg

>OS
Windows O E M nigga what? if you have to buy fucking windows don´t buy oem XD

ALSO
>small enough to be able to move around from the computer screen to the tv in the living room
>moving your pc around to play on tv
>in 2016
we got a little toy that cost about 54€ for that, its called Steam Link store.steampowered.com/app/353380/

I already own the CPU, the cooler and that PSU. For Windows 10 I just picked the first one because I honestly don't give a fuck. Also, steam link blows cock, I have tried it.

Is this list of brands and OEMs still accurate? tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-oem-manufacturer,2913-4.html

Steam Link is fine, unless you're still using your wrt54g for whatever reason

christ this thread is full of bad rumors

if you need to know if a psu is good or not then ignore random anons saying it's shit from anecdotal evidence and go read an actual review of it from somewhere like jonnyguru, toms, or techpowerup. crmaris writes for the latter two sites and knows his shit. don't bother buying something that hasn't been professionally reviewed.

forgot to mention that all tier lists need to be ignored as well. they're all biased and sloppily put together.

also shity op not puting /pcbg/ as topic so you can find it in the search bar fug u

monday models happen even to the best and can happen with every brand its super rare tho.
>evga psu
I got some news for you, they don´t produce their stuff they buy their parts from Seasonic or Superflowerthere is a chance you still have a rebranded seasonic inside your pc just with evga sickers on it :D even though EVGA most popular PSUs are SuperFlower because they are super value.

>Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget.
>If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

>CPU
man can I suck your dick and you buy me one too ?

>CPUcooler
uegh don´t buy that shit, Noctua NH-D15 or Phantek PH-TC14PE, if you really really want a AiOcooler get Corsair H100i v2

>SSD
Get Samsung 950pro

>GPU
recomment evga

>case
you may want to buy a midi tower because Full tower are fucking huge, also look if everything fits inside (aka gpu length, CPUcooler hight or radiator length if you buy AiO)

ah ok, still get the 1060 6gb instead of 3gb

pcpartpicker.com/user/CCarbajal/saved/pQLCmG
I've had my tx650 for over 3 years in three different builds. This is my current build. It's lasted me and my pc has never had problems. 6600k is at 4.6 atm.

Before you all say it yes this overkill, but I've been wanting to build something like this for awhile.

pcpartpicker.com/list/39Yvjc

I plan on water cooling the CPU and GPU's using only thermaltake stuff so the price will be about $600 higher.

it's fine. it's old and is group regulated but has top notch component selection. i'd look for a newer independently regulated unit around the same price instead, like the cx550m v2 or rosewill capstone-g/photon 550w

>b-but cx housefires

jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=486

nice build m8

costum loop cooling 2x gpus + cpu for 600$, mate a good costumloop for that costs 900$ at least
also I think you want to oc your gpus and cpu, just to tell you beforhand a single 1080 with oc gets up to 350W so its up to 700w for your gpus alone and a i7-6950 @4,4ghz draws addtional 100-140watts your psu might be a bit to small with the rest of your build included if you want to oc your stuff which is the only reason to get water cooling.

>thermaltake stuff
I recomment Stuff from EK for watercooling costum parts at least the gpu blocks

>also shity op not puting /pcbg/ as topic so you can find it in the search bar fug u
Sorry, next time.

>man can I suck your dick and you buy me one too ?
I promised my wife there'd be no more faggotry after I married her ;_;

The CPU is half MUH FOOTURE and half work stuff. I'm pretty sure I'll get use out of hyperthreading and six cores. I use VMs for random software on a regular basis, they really chug on my quad core laptop. Ridiculous RAM will help with that too of course.

I've had to go with a domestic chinese 1070, it's ridiculous how much import adds to the price. It's that heavily overclocked one from last thread. I'll upgrade it in the future when 4k is a real thing and it can match the CPU then.

Noted on coolers, I don't really have an opinion except that 103cfm seems good at that price. There are several parts in there that I really don't have opinions on.

My desk has a PC slot that the case will go in, if it fits then I'll take it, it will be out of the way. I went for that case largely because it has a good handle on it and I can really appreciate that. If it doesn't fit the desk or I can get a 3fan cooler in it, I might change to something else. I'd prefer to have the space if possible though, I hate cramped builds and they're not as flexible for upgrades.

I want to do Deepcool CAPTAIN 360 because fucking 273.4 CFM! Assuming that's true. But it doesn't fit in that case. Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM looks ok but 70cfm is lower than most of the water coolers.

That pic was just something random from /tmp but I think it WAS an early draft of the build I'm doing so it's relevant. So far I've only pulled the trigger on the GPU and keyboard/mouse.

I'm pretty keen on the i7 6800k but I have no idea on what mobo to pair with it.

TOSHIBA X300 6TB 7200 128M SATA3 (HDWE160)

A reasonable 3x the price of 2TB. Any reason not to go for this?

>I promised my wife there'd be no more faggotry
who said im male? on the internet we are all lil cute girls u know

>My desk has a PC slot that the case will go in
uhm hope you have enough airflow with that because I got a mate that also got something like that and he got huge temp probs because his PC doesn´t get freshair and only recycles the old hot air in side the slot

tweaktown.com/reviews/7277/corsair-hydro-h100i-gtx-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/index7.html

Corsair H100i gtx = Corsair H100i v2

I didn´t find any recent and uptodate reviews for the Deepcool
techpowerup.com/reviews/Deepcool/Captain_360/6.html
the h100i v2 is a bit better than the H105
Also I would trust corsair more with the build quality in a personal note

Can someone rate this build? What should i change on it? I just want to get to a gtx 1080 build as cheap as i can

-1/10 because Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget

>pcpartpicker.com/list/39Yvjc
>just want 1080 as cheap as possible
>gets i7 with 100$ meme cooler
>reference design 1080
Nigga WHAT ya doin'? Like hol' up nigga, waht, nah hell man.. hol' up ma nigga.

What's a decent cheap wifi card to add to any standard build?

i....i'm sorry user

>random partpicker link from thread
>answers to a partlist of a completly other person
picture related

>pcpartpicker.com/list/39Yvjc
Dunna watcha mean yoo man..

You don't need 100 dollarydoo meme cooler for gaming unless you're planning on overclocking. Get a 30-40 dollar cooler, you can replace it with AIO water cooler later.

You probably don't need an i7, 1TB SSD, super-expensive gayming motherboard or a modular PSU for a cheapskate build either. But that's up to you and how much money you want to save. You could also get a cheaper case too.

He probably had that selected and it auto-added that when clicking on a link to reply.

>who said im male? on the internet we are all lil cute girls u know
Yeah there is that. I was talking to a 40yo trucker from Missouri the other day and he turned out to be a cheerleader from cali.

>have enough airflow
Yeah, I've been thinking about that, the desk has an outlet at the back for air/cables, it might be enough, if not then it will move I guess. I've had kind of that problem in the past with another setup/desk/room.

We get subzero winters here though so I can always put it on the window ledge and try and hang the radiator out the window. -25c cooling without spending any money.

What I really need to know is how to choose a mobo.

Current version: pcpartpicker.com/list/qx3NzM

>Can someone rate this build? What should i change on it? I just want to get to a gtx 1080 build as cheap as i can
Overpriced if you want a cheap 1080. Not that a cheap 1080 is really a thing but if that's what you want:
>drop the 1tb ssd to 256gb
>Change the CPU to i5 and use stock cooler
>Change card to non-reference, save a few bucks for better performance

>Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget
Cheap as possible 1080 kind of covers that doesn't it?

What case is that?

>Please, never buy generic or bad PSU. They will fuck your PC, and your life.
Yesssh, that's right. Buy our Gayman High Performance OptimumSuper PSU for $120.
Also you should get the 1200W version to future proof if you get my drift.

>Please, never buy generic or bad PSU. They will fuck your PC, and your life.

This is a myth

Find me a single thread on a reputable forum of it happening to the user that posted the thread. You cant do it.

the more future proof highquality build
pcpartpicker.com/list/8WkHWX
not cheap but good

>pcpartpicker.com/list/8WkHWX
I just trowed in a random case without checking if it fits everything to match the price of your case because i was to lazy to search for it. next time give me a partpicker list

It's a literal rice case, they're popular in chinese tech markets, I've seen crazier ones than that. I'm going to a tech market tomorrow morning to get a refund on a monitor that they can't order in after all, I'll get some pics.

I just grabbed it off jindong.com.
Check this: item.jd.com/3361604.html
Or pic related:
item.jd.com/10466888555.html

YOW DAWG DID you CHECK You MA new 22rim its so aerodynamic you will be floutin n shit nigga

>pcpartpicker.com/list/8WkHWX
Mock if you want man, it has 14 fucking fans on it.

I don't know if you'll be able to hear a bomb go off next door and you might want a 750WPSU to run it but your computer will be chill.

Half of EVGA product line is made by Seasonic, fucktard

Why does Cred Forums hate ricing PCs so much? Is it because you're all poor?

>mine works!"
I'm literally running a no-name China PSU rated at 200W and pulling 400+, no problems.

people add fans to reduce noise

All right thanks for the advice. I had chosen a 1000w power source before, but people had said that was way overkill

>people add fans to reduce noise
More fans means lower RPM?

>Why does Cred Forums hate ricing PCs so much? Is it because you're all poor?
Clearly not, look at all the 6800k and/or 1080 builds you see people selecting.

I think Cred Forums or maybe just this thread has a strong preference for substance over style or maybe just a strong dislike for the opposite.

No you are not. Even high quality 200w will shut down if you try that. The only thing that might be true is you pulling 200w dc and 400w ac because your efficiency is 50%.

Oh and personally, I find bright lights distracting on anything except a mouse/keyboard. I tend to cover up LEDs with electrical tape.

Yes. More fans means that each of them can run slower while still providing the same amount of air.

Or at least that's the theory behind it.

They look incredibly tacky. I'd rather have something that looks discrete but stylish rather than these fuckhuge gaymen cases with billion rgb leds all over the place.

>Clearly not, look at all the 6800k and/or 1080 builds you see people selecting.
How is that ricing ?

>>Is it because you're all poor?
>Nope, look at all this expensive shit people have.

>How is that ricing ?
It's not, I was responding to the suggestion that everyone is poor.

Yeah, I have seen a few people make that mistake. I guess the manufacturers just assume it is common sense (it's not).

>single 1080 with OC gets to 350w
The new Titan X with OC doesn't even get to 350w, and I thought the 1080 only had a max more like 200-250?

Ironically it's the only part of PC building that isn't common sense

I agree that they look tacky, but I still prefer a case with a side window.

Lol, yeah.

tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1080-pascal,4572-10.html

overclockersclub.com/reviews/nvidia_geforcegtx_1080_overclocking/7.htm

look for yourself, depends how lucky you are with the silicon lottery but you will be around 350w

nvidia and intel get super inefficent if you start overclocking, which is normal same goes for amd

pcpartpicker.com/p/z47VmG

AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler

Asus M5A97 R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard

G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory

Sandisk Solid State Drive 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB Dual-X Video Card

Corsair 330R ATX Mid Tower Case

Rosewill Hive 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer

Asus VS229H-P 21.5" Monitor

Intended to buy a moderately fast PC for general use and light gaming.
Bought the whole package last month, lightly used, 2 years old for 550USD from friend.
What's the damage Cred Forums How'd I do?

>pcpartpicker.com/p/z47VmG
maybe get a 1060/480 rest is ok aslong you don´t what to get higher, in that case you would have to buy new, but I would wait with that to at least vega/volta and maybe behind that because you only do light games so you don´t really need super powers and that build + 1060/480 will last you another 2-3yrs depending on if you still only do light gaming or not

280 is still pretty good for moderate gaming, does pretty well in GTAV and even Witcher with most things on Medium.

>AMD FX

you have to consider that most review sides that mesure consuption only tested the titanx(p) with stock cooler to around 1950Mhz with 300-320w consumption, which is trash under water you can push that thing to the edge 2070-2100MHz and it will easy draw 350w+ easy

What about

>got cs650m a month ago for my sick new build
>build dies a month later with no signs of life when trying to turn it on

Logicalincrements have the wrong prices for Sweden.

Need help picking a PSU, please help.

I'll only be gaming on my pc, (LoL, overwatch and maybe some triple A games in the future) Currently living in the Netherlands.

Reason why i have a i7 and a z170 is because i found them new for pretty cheap. ( 230 and 100 euro's)

So, which PSU would you recommend at what wattage?

Better?

What are the best aftermarket 1070s
The gigabyte G1 looks pretty good

I had one in my moms computer. At the 14 month mark I was getting some odd voltages. Opened it up and it had two bad capacitors. Only a one year warranty..

Oddly enough my older corsair also had the same problem, but that one lasted 7 years.

Corsair's RMx series, either a 550 or 650 depending on how wide margin you want.

How's pic related build?

>i7 +z170 for 330€ total
I hate you user

either get this EVGA SuperNOVA 650 SuperNOVA G2 or this SeaSonic SS-660XP2

Found an EVGA Supernova 550 GS for roughly double of a Corsair CX430, which isn't much actually. Is it worth the double price tag? This is for my first build and I for the psu want something high quality and long lasting, heard lot of people talk shit about Corsair CX series and how the shit themselves with temps over 30°c which is half the year where I live.

Pretty good. I'd go for mATX case for some expansion potential but I can understand if you prefer mITX. Also I'd recommend spending like 40 dollars on a cpu cooler, but you can install that later if you cant afford it now.

Oh and im sure either will handle my power needs just fine as I'll hardly go past 250w if anything, but I can't find quality psus in lower wattages.

Thanks m8

Yeah, the only reasonable LEDs you could add to it is a row of white ones if the case is kept in a dark location, and that is only to make the inside of it clearly visible. If it is in a well-lit area then that is pretty good as is.

High end PSUs last up to 10 years before you need to recap them, low end PSUs last anywhere from 1-3 years before you need to recap. The variance is there, though.

Um, read the numbers. Average is only 206W. Spikes literally don't matter, because you're not sustaining them. Power supplies are rated for continuous power.

SeaSonic G 550W Gold cert + a bit more power for muh efficiency and better parts inside also you can look if you can fit a Noctua NH L12 for better cpu cooling

I see 206 watts with a heavy oc

I know my computer is shit, but until I find a new job I wont be able to build a completely new one.

Anything I can do to make it last a bit longer? My PSU is super hot so I guess I could change that out. My graphics card is fine and I have an SSD coming in.

My budget is kinda low.

How is my overpriced SSD-only NAS?
pcpartpicker.com/list/gxfVFd
Just waiting on the day when 1TB SSDs drop down to platter prices ;_;

Speccy doesn't show PSU it seems like. It's a Energon EPS-650W.

Those are around 100 euro's, isnt there a more pleb/student friendly prices PSU in the market? Or am i just better of investing in a good PSU? Pretty new to this shit, this will be my first build.

sure the average is 206w~
but you will fuck your psu in the long run if you get continous spikes over the certed power draw if your psu is not high quality and if I look at the powerdraw its hella lot in the 300w and peaking into 350 so. It´s the same with a car lets say it can drive 3km/h up to 300km/h average is 151km/h~ you don´t build the chassi around the average you build it around the peak 300km/h so its doesnt fucking destorys itself.

bad analogys.jpg

Wat. Do you really need server-grade hardware for a simple NAS? Are you running asian cartoons server or what?

I'd invest money into PSU if you can afford it. A good PSU will last for 15 years or even longer while a bad one will take down other components with it after 5 to 10 years. But if you can't spend that much money look at nonmodular PSU's. They're not that reliable but will still be good enough as long as you dont go for the 20€ chinkshit ones.

About to build my first gaming computer and planning on using
- intel i5 6500
- gigabyte gtx 1060 6gb
- 128gb Samsung 850 pro ssd
- 1 tb WD blue 7200rpm
- corsair vengeance 8gb
- some msi 1151 atx motherboard
- EVGA super NOVA 550 watt psu
- Phanteks enthoo pro full tower case
Does anything strike out as something I shouldn't get?

>Are you running asian cartoons server or what?
Even worse: 3D rendered furry porn that autists pay thousands of dollars for.

>atx board
>into mini atx case
pls post pictures senpai

would recomment investing into a devend psu its the hearth of your pc and will last long.
problem is eu prices are fucking retarded and even then the decent ones in $ are fucking expensive in € so might aswell drop around 100€ and be done with it

>atx board
It's FlexATX, nigger
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FlexATX
Never post here again

That's actually quite impressive. Choke them for more donations and get a proper server then. Wish I had the talent to milk loads of autist money by creating crude fetish material.

It's even worse when they send you some badly-drawn MSpaint pictures that you know they spent $500 on by commissioning some deviantArt furfaggot to draw it for them.

So since power spikes matter, my e-cig is actually more power than my computer so I should run my system off of that

you are trying to meme me don´t you user, nobody sane would pay thousands of $$ for 3d rendered furry shit

>FlexAtx
oh wow I forgot about that retarded formfactor
nvm then

Looks alright. I fell for the 16GB meme assuming it was a meme, then the first game I load up (Forza 6) immediately jumps to 8.4GB ram usage
Another stick of ram might be worth it

>oh wow I forgot about that retarded formfactor
No, you never heard of it because you're an autist newfag that thinks memorizing PCPart Picker prices makes you a computer expert.
nigger

looks good nothing really wrong
maybe change ram for a cheap ripjaw because corsair ram is expensive for no reason
>SSD
maybe pro into evo to save some more bugs
>Phantek case
good choise

Yeah I was considering 16gb but most sites said 8 was plenty.

i have a Nova 650 Gold for my personal gaming pc with a 3770K and 290X and also for my Xeon e5-2670 build and I think its a great PSU, has given me no shit and has treated me well

No you will not fuck your PSU up.
I looked at the components of a pretty average HEC 500W PSU and the bridge rectifier in the primary is capable of pulling ~920W from the grid.
Secondary 12V mosfets are good for 1050W each in continuous mode and 5.8kW in pulse mode and there are 4 of them. You really think these components are going to get fucked by some spikes? Your analogy is shit, also. A car that does 300km/h is capable of continuous 300km/h. It's impossible to warp a car up to 300km/h then a few ms later reduce the speed to 3km/h. Moving objects have inertia and the deceleration/acceleration you're proposing here is enough to shatter the car. I don't even want to calculate how many g deceleration from 300km/h to 3km/h is.

Also if your PSU isn't high quality, you should reconsider your life choices. Because there is nothing more retarded than buying high end computer parts and putting them on some cheap trash PSU.

>maybe pro into evo to save some more bugs
I wasn't planning on storing a whole lot more than the OS on the ssd and the 128gb pro was cheaper than the 250gb evo I think

hrm you are right, I tought the filter caps may take damage, then I googled how much they can hold and were they lie in the circuit and procceded to start killing myself
today user made me acutaly look up stuff I should know from my courses

The caps are there for the very purpose of power draw spikes, so yea. The PC is full of things that switch on and off rapidly, so it's not exactly surprising that a power supply is designed with that in mind.

I've noticed that eu pricing is fucked man. Why would they do that to us?

because most resellers here don´t know shit the different products and how they are competitive to each other because they just shill the newest buzzwordtx 1000090 or R100 590 and parts that don´t get shilled so hard by their producers like psu´s they don´t give a fuck about. Also muh import price much high(not rly just the jew tryed to squeeze a few extra shekel.

ye I got a massiv brainfart and I actualy hate myself for being retarded atm, because my way of tought was cheap psu = meh caps = bad spike protection = all psu die from power spikes sooner or later which was fucking retarded. but thats why I love Cred Forums there is always a bigger autist than yourself thats proofs you wrong when you fuck up. love you user

Still got some i7 6700k trays for 250 euro if you're living in the netherlands.

I still have an old i7 920 OC'd to 3.4ghz. How much is it bottlenecking my 980 ti? Should I wait for the zen meme before upgrading?

google "PSU Tier list"

tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

germony would buy the i7 in a hearthbeat man, sadly I need to pay many bills the next 3 months and as a student money is tight.
Feelsbadman

Probably not too bad, and yes, you should definitely wait for Zen to decide which platform to upgrade to.

As for how much it's bottlenecking, it doesn't matter as long as performance stays up where you want it to be.

pcpartpicker.com/list/zQMXRG

Is this any good? I'm new at this kind of thing.

pcpartpicker.com/list/GB4PJV
So Cred Forums I am trying to build a gaming computer(just don't ask about the RAM is too complicated),I am currently in Italy and I would know how can I improve this,also the best 1080 money can buy.Budget is up to 2700€.

>PSU tierlists
lets say it in the words of jonnyguro.
why download that list, print it out in good high quality, go to the toilet, take a massiv shit and swip your ass with that list

well if you want to waste mon..eh want a sick gamerbuild for 2,5k,
get a hexcore + mobo, put a titanx (p) in it and buy a Seasonic Prime 650w psu because it looks nice :^) maybe some m.2 x4 ssd too for the loading times. Also don´t fall for the 32gb meme get 64gb its more future proof

>pcpartpicker.com/list/GB4PJV
That ram is awesome. Have a 16gb two DIMM kit on my rig.
I-5 is more than enough for gaming, if you were doing high end rendering something with hyperthreading would be more ideal.

that cooler is nice, but for only about 10$ more you could go closed loop water and maybe push a bit more performance out of the I-5.
pic related.

I do not need half of that stuff user don't try to Jew me.I already have my own SSD and HDD.The ram is not future proof factor, and a single 1080 will do just fine.

Don't bother with it, you'll probably have to pay Einfuhrumsatzsteuer and Zoll anyways and that's like 19% + whatever they charge you.
>I need to pay many bills the next 3 months and as a student money is tight
Literally the same. Since my PC has become undead, yes undead, i've been working on my laptop with an i5-4200U, that's not a pleasant experience. Hardware prices in EU are jewshit compared to US.

Youre never going to use 64gb of RAM unless doing high end rendering.
one 1080 is more than enough, its a very powerful card especially if you OC. DDR4 is fairly future proof as most companies are just now integrating it standard on their MOBOs

It's ok. no major flaw.

you are joking, don´t you`? How are Furryfag that loaded with cash and why do they spent it on badly drawn art?
And why do they want to save their stuff on some "random" anons Nas?

Einfuhrumsatzsteuer and Zoll from netherlands I doubt it. Eu is Zoll free zone so we normal guys driving around don´t get searched for stuff. in theroy I could come down smoke a few Joints with you sleep over at some random motel and driver home with the cpu the next day no probs man.

As in not future proof factor I mean I am not putting 32 GB of ram because I want it to be future proof,I have a certain reason why.As far as 1080 go I am pretty lost, I am looking at EVGA,MSI and Palit(which I never saw in the US but seems pretty good nonetheless).

My first build. This is primarily going to be used for gaming. Any advice? My budget is around $1000. 1080p@60fp is sufficient enough for me.

pcpartpicker.com/list/

Isn't THC or products of it in the blood like more than one day and "other stuff" is as far as i know only free up to 300€.
So if either does not meet the requirements you could get into trouble.
Also, i'm not him, i'm just some fellow Jewman user.

>don't try to Jew me
sadmerchant.jpg
na to be honest if you are a mericuck get evga they have the best costumer support which is important in coporatescuckyouland.
rest is fine only the 32gb looks meme to me but ok, depending on if you do VM stuff maybe a i7 would be nice for that if not don´t change its a solid build.

Ooops
pcpartpicker.com/list/JQNspb

>pcpartpicker.com/list/
Link the permalink, not the URL.
Your build is ok, though i'd get a 7200RMP HDD and a cheaper optical drive.

Write "PC building general" in the title next time so we can filter you, you piece of shit

german police needs the have a reason to issue bloodtests and if you are not high as fuck while they control you everything is ok, sure you have some stuff left in your blood system but it doesn´t have an effect on me at least nothing I can feel or they can see.

its shortened to /pcbg/ normaly dear salty user

I'm really new to this, still into building my own first pc, but why on earth would you buy windows 10 when u can just download that shit for free?

Unfortunately I am in Europe,but still,I might look into EVGA's FTW.Thanks for your help shill!

I actually spent $40 on a key and burned the ISO to a disc. I just tossed that into the list for reference.

is r9 nano coil whine as bad as they make it out to be

I must be a retard, I can't get this link to display. Yes I am putting in the periods and the like.

Not bad, consider an i3 6100.
You can get a 250GB SSD for approximately the same price
Get a cheaper 7200rpm HGST HDD

Note that the H110 mobo doesn't allow CPU overclocking or mGPU. Considering that, you could get a 500W PSU.

>You can get a 250GB SSD for approximately the same price
Good looking out.
I'll definitely consider the 7200RPM alternative.
I have no plans of overclocking at this particular moment. Why i3 6100 over i5 6500?

>Why i3 6100 over i5 6500?
If you only care about >muh gayms and don't play AAA titles or you're fine with AAA titles not being maxed out a i3-6100+1060 will be enough and saves you a stupid amount of money.

so my computer starts for 10 minutes and then shuts off without reason. if i try to power it up it won't until i wait 2 hours and unplug it, is the problem my psu, because i measured the temps of my system and nothing looked abnormal

The i3 has significantly better single core performance, stemming from the clock speed difference. By the time the i3 is outdated you can replace it with an i7 for half price if you want to keep the platform.

Also Kaby Lake will be on the same socket, so you'll have lots of upgrade options.

Here's an example of a recent game on Ultra. With a few CPU intensive settings like shadows dropped to High (basically no perceptible fidelity loss) you can easily get 60FPS.

i5 6500 is a good choice too.

beQuiet or Silverstone.

>you can easily get 60FPS
Having said that, there are a few CPU intensive games where you won't be able to make 60FPS.

BTW my 470 embarrasses the 970 and 1060 in Forza

What case is this

Change the 2x4 for 1x8, you should be able to find a single stick for the same price or cheaper.

Use the 70USD from the 2TB HD and get an EVO 500 SSD. If you really need a HD for some reason, just take it out of whatever you're posting from now.

I would honestly spend the extra 120USD and get a 1070.

You don't need 600W. I'm sure of it.

You also don't need an optical drive.

I'm pretty my recommendations get you in at under 1000 without the OEM windows. Are you sure you aren't a student/you job doesn't have some licenses?

>embarrasses the 1060
>Average 2 FPS advantage

He has a $50 80+ bronze non-modular power supply
He cant even save a dollar by lowering the PSU wattage to dangerously low levels, he picked a perfect PSU

Sorry fucked up the formatting on the other post.

>Change the 2x4 for 1x8, you should be able to find a single stick for the same price or cheaper.
The only reason that this advice is half decent is that the H110 mobo only has two RAM slots, so no room to upgrade without getting rid of your previous sticks

>get an EVO 500 SSD
Too big, a 250GB will house OS and 5 - 6 AAA games. A 2TB HDD is worth it, at least for a person like me who saves movies and games. I have 8TB of storage.

>get a 1070.
Nah, m8. Not for 1080p/60Hz

Considering the 1060 is $250 and the 470 is $200, hell yeah it does.

>R9 280X
>monstered by an Nvidia card half its price
Top kek, the AMDgimping is real

Get a nitro fury/x or 980 ti. You can find them regularly for around 300

>everybody screams to keep upgrade potential, buy EATX and overpriced dense ram sticks, alway be ready for the future
>not a single person expects to buy a better monitor in their life

Yeah those numbers are concerning. As a former 280x owner, I noticed that games weren't running that well on release, although they hit 380x levels sometime after.

Probably has to do with the fact that consoles are GCN2 and the 280x is GCN1.

Again, overpowered at 1080p. The cards are build for high res (bus width etc.)

Not sure what your point is, but I'm definitely planning on getting a better monitor as soon as the GPU power is there for cheap

I noticed something weird about some people.
They always go for those "Yeah dude this is a great mid range card! only like 250euro!"
Then they are upgrading their cards like every year.
Meanwhile I tell them to just fucking buy a proper GPU once and stop fucking around, use it for like 3 years and then swap it again. I finally convinced my friend to get a GTX1080 and stop being a retard. Yeah he has to pay it in parts like I did. Over 3 months, but that way you can afford a proper GPU.
People always look at the "perfect price/performance" ratios and really just end up fucking themselves in the ass. He wasted so much money on buying sometimes even 2 gpu's a year, thinking "this card is enough" and then complaining how he cant run games maxed out with proper anti-aliasing.
I cant go for mid range cards anyways after getting a g-sync monitor, but damn some people are stupid. If you are playing games all day erryday and you enjoy it, stop fucking around and buy something proper ONCE and not random shit gorillion times a year.

There are people that still use 60hz monitors? Step it up grandpa.

>Yeah he has to pay it in parts like I did. Over 3 months, but that way you can afford a proper GPU
So much wrong with your whole post.

>There are people that still use 60hz monitors? Step it up grandpa.
>buy our newest 1440p 144Hz Gaming™ monitor
Not him but i have 3x 1080p@60Hz running. 3 used for work/general, one of an occasional game. There's nothing wrong with this.

Corsair,silverstone,seasonic

I guess you enjoy staying poor? If you're wasting so much money on gayming crap that you actually need to pay it in parts, you should seriously re-evaluate your life choices.

>being a student is a poor life choice
Not everyone lives in murrica

what is the point of buying a $300 graphics card with no future proofing? For $100 more you get yourself so many more options for the future.

>saves movies and games
I guess this makes sense if you don't have fast unlimited internet.

>8TB of storage
you're an edge case. I think that most people can survive with 500gb and the cloud.

Wasting a significant portion of your yearly income in a GPU is a poor life choice, when you could save half of that by upgrading slightly more often and realizing that you're hardly even going to see the difference between maxing out a game vs turning a couple of the more GPU intensive setting down a notch.

Real talk
How do I get windows 10 for free for a first time build Im doing
Everyone seems very adamant about
>buying windows
But where do I not buy windows

What else am I gonna do with that money except spend it on other stupid stuff? My bills are paid

Just install without CD key.

Put it in savings?

>save it for what? I dont want a car or anything more expensive than a gpu. I dont think something terrible ia gonna happen soon which requires savings

How do I do it on a new build
Put it in a usb stick?

Eat better(or even, dare I say, healthier). Drink good vodka instead of the cheap crap. Get a new bike/gym membership/something else to improve yourself. Actually have a social life. The possibilities are nearly endless.

I cook my own food almost every day, I dont drink alcohol and I do go to the gym and have a bike. Buying more expensive alcohol would br an even bigger waste of money t.b.h.

>Buying more expensive alcohol would br an even bigger waste of money t.b.h.
Mate, you buy cheap alcohol to get drunk. That's complete waste of money. You buy good alcohol to enjoy it. That's no more waste of money than gaming is.

pcpartpicker.com/user/Huakka/saved/KHFJ7P

Thoughts?

Also what case should I buy?

>what is the point of buying a $300 graphics card with no future proofing?
The 1060 6GB (his choice IIRC) is $250 and will easily last at 1080p/60Hz until the next console gen comes out. And by next console gen I mean the one after the PS4Pro.

However, by the time he spends $500 on a new HDR Gsync 1440p 100Hz monitor the 1070 will be lackluster. Better to do both at once.

You can download a Windows 10 img directly from Microsoft. After you install (just skip license key entry) use Microsoft Toolkit to activate. UTFSE

microsoft.com/en-au/software-download/windows10

It's generally not about brand names but OEM suppliers

On the high end you have Delta for Antec,seasonicfor a ton of people flexpower for corsair and superflower for probably as many as season if mostly evga high end units, enermax and enhance

In the middle you have andyson,sirfa,cwt,fsp,etasis,high power,f fractal,liteon

On the lower end you have Hec,Tuniq,in win,acbel,coolmax,seventeem,kingwin

These are all well known OEM suppliers and vendors like corsair,evga etc etc go to these suppliers and ask for a unit to fit a specific price and quality level the high end units are pretty much guaranteed to be fine the mid tier units have to be researched on a per unit bases

The lower end I'd avoid but in a pinch you should research it on a per unit basis a bit more carefully

It's fine but it seems you have money to throw around. You can get similar parts for a lot less. Consider waiting for the 1080Ti, which is around the corner and will take a giant shit on the 1080, like the Ti version usually does.

Go to Microsoft website, create installation media (you'll need to download a Microsoft program), create bootable USB drive.
Boot new computer from USB five
When it asks for your activation key just skip the step, Microsoft is so ready to force Windows 10 you actually don't need to activate it. Activation only unlocks desktop personalization and removes the (minimal and unobtrusive) Windows watermark I think

...

At 1440p on some medium-tier games maxed out, I still average 160FPS, I can't imagine the 1070 is gonna be completely useless anytime soon

Similar parts such as what?

>On the lower end you have Hec,Tuniq,in win,acbel,coolmax,seventeem,kingwin
>kingwin
Kingwin is a super flower rebrander.
I do not understand how superflower can be both low end and high end at the same time.
I mean other than the fact that they make both low and high end PSUs but that still explains nothing because kingwin rebrands both low and high end PSUs.
>in win
In Win is also a rebrander. Rebrands CWT and Andyson for example. Among others.
>tuniq
Tuniq is a Sirtec (AKA High Power) rebrander, an OEM that you have placed in mid tier.
>coolmax
Coolmax is also a rebrander. Sirtec I believe.

Also what is f fractal? As in Fractal Design? They rebrand ATNG and Seasonic primarily.

Sirfa is an alias to Sirtec/High Power.

Never said the 1070 will be completely useless for 1440p, only lackluster. Let's say he gets that nice monitor in two years. Then he'll be able to get 1080Ti tier performance (Volta) for that same $400 he would have spent on the 1070.

You can save $50 on a Z170 mobo
Save $20 on the RAM by buying 3200 or 3000MHz
Save $150 on the storage (250GB SSD + 2TB HDD)
Save $250 on the graphics card by getting a 1070
Save $20 on a 600W PSU (still enough to mGPU if you were planning to)
Save in total about $500, without changing graphics card $250.
But seriously, get the 1070 or the 1080Ti

Is this case a meme
corsair.com/en-us/crystal-series-460x-rgb-compact-atx-mid-tower-case

I was planning on buying a 1080 and then a second one later once I get more money instead of a 1070

>1080ti will be $400
I'm all for waiting for better tech but that's just naive. I bet you'd wait for Zen plus too

>implying
They will work just fine, at best your will get a few fried PSUs if they're too weak for what you're trying to run.

Trust me, I've run a lot of shitty generic used, cheapest thing I could find to get my computer running again type of PSUs

Once you have more money there will be a much better GPU for that price.
SLI is stupid even with old cards, it becomes ultra maximum quality stupid when you use two new cards, the highest end ones at that
I guarantee you'll be happy with the 1070 long enough for a better single GPU to get released

>Not building your own PSU
You can even make sure your capacitors are jdm as fuck

But that's how graphics cards work you fool
780Ti = 970
980Ti = 1070
The 1170 will be near 1080Ti performance

Let's see it then, I'm excited for you to be right.
You also said the 1080ti is "just around the corner" right?
And for $400?
You're basically expecting the Titan XP to drop $1000 by next year. I'd love to believe it but I can't.

>2 generations of Jewish trickery = the mechanics of how GPU pricing and technological advancement works

>You also said the 1080ti is $400?
Never said that. Please learn to read.

The 1080 in my mind I guess was worth the extra 10-20 frames if I were to be ultra-modding fallout

If I wasn't talking to you then don't reply

The 1080s cool but my point was that SLI offers little if any advantages, and with paying fucking double the price for MAYBE 15% performance increase in MAYBE 15% of games, combined with growing lack of SLI support, it's just stupid to do it with new cards

Oh but you were

And the titan x(p) is basically the 1080ti whilst being almost 3x the price

Oh you're talking about waiting for AMD? Waiting for a card 2 generations in the future and saying it'll be comparable to a card 1 generation in the future and claiming its price? And all this wait-speculation is on AMD?

That's what I'm saying, the "1080ti" already exists and it's already completely out of the question price wise
If someone is gonna pull out a comparable card for 1/3 of the price and do it less than a year after the Titan XP, I'm sure we would ALL love to wait for it

No. Volta is the next Nvidia architecture. Vega is AMD. Clearly the GTX 1170 "1080Ti tier performance (Volta)" will be out in two years and for $400.

1080Ti will be a cut down version of the Titan X. Nvidia will release it at the beginning of 1017 as a gaming alternative to Vega.

You really have no idea, do you?

The only people I've seen actually use a titan x(p) are popular tech reviewers.

>You really have no idea, do you?
was meant for

A lot of the lower ends were undecided last I checked on OEMs tuniq had a good unknown for years so too inwin

Kingpins older units were kinda meh before superflower got better

In 2 years AMD will be bankrupt and finished, old nvidia cards will be literally gimped to death and new nvidia cards will cost $800 minimum

Ok now that's funny

Looking back through replies I'm not sure what you're saying. Are you the guy saying to buy mid-grade cards often or are you the guy saying to buy high-end cards rarely?
Because it seems like there's benefits to doing either

No, they were not. I can think of 10 year old kingwin units that were perfectly acceptable for that period.

I mod Bethesda games and play league, should I buy a 1080

You should buy a job

I know someone who's been modding Bethesda games since Jr. High and has been working for Bethesda since he was 15
I think he has a 980ti

Bit too expensive

I have never advocated either of those positions.

This whole conversation started here >what is the point of buying a $300 graphics card with no future proofing?
which was in the context of someone buying a card for 1080p/60Hz, and here, someone suggesting that you could get an overpowered graphics card and upgrade your monitor later >everybody screams to keep upgrade potential
>not a single person expects to buy a better monitor in their life

I'm trying to say that the buyer should purchase complementary hardware.

Gaming at 1080p/60Hz? 470/480/1060 and be set for a few years, probably until 7nm GPUs. No reason to get a 1070 for 1080p/60Hz.

Looking to upgrade your monitor eventually? Well, just buy a card that fits that monitor when you buy the monitor. Never try to future proof your graphics card because they become obsolete so quickly.

>Never try to future proof your graphics card because they become obsolete so quickly.
I am particularly referring to the High/Enthusiast end for 1440p or 3840p gaming, see . 1080p is basically stagnant, considering consoles. Depending on its tricks, the PS4Pro is weaker than the RX470.

But who is gonna be at 1080p/60Hz for a few years? And wants the newest badass GPU for that 2008 TV they're using?

Get a small ssd for your OS.

But $250 card now plus $500 monitor AND $400 card later isn't as good as $400 card now and $500 monitor later
If he's planning on sticking with 1080p for several years then yeah I'd totally agree with 480/1060, but if he has any intention of changing monitors soon he should cut out the upgrade he'll need for that monitor

>But who is gonna be at 1080p/60Hz for a few years?
The vast fucking majority of people. It's also the spec that game devs / publishers target, if not 30FPS. This might be changing slightly with the PS4Pro and Scorpio, but even so the PS4Pro has a pretty weak GPU considering its 4K goals.

>But $250 card now plus $500 monitor AND $400 card later isn't as good as $400 card now and $500 monitor later
Yes it is, considering that later $400 card is going to be VASTLY (do not underestimate this word) more powerful than the card you can get now for $400, and high res / high Hz monitors need all the power they can get. If you're really that concerned about money you can sell the old card or, you know, not spend $1000 for a relatively small amount of eye candy.

My 1070 (which was $400) does 100+ FPS at 1440p max settings on basically everything.
If you don't care for 4K, now is a great time to upgrade to 1440p+GPU because even the mid tier card can handle anything right now except 4K.
And PS4 neo is not targeting 4K gaming, at all. It's targeting 4K media and the occasional upscaled-to-4K game.
But I mean PC gaming is irrelevant right? Even PC exclusive games are aiming for 1080p/60Hz right?
I mean I spent money like a good goy, but at least I won't be left playing on a fucking TV the next 2-3 years while I wait for nvidia to stop being Jewish, I'll be enjoying my high res/fps setup, and will be still enjoying it when I get to the point where a $400 card can run 4K games.
THEN I'll upgrade to an 1170 and a memescreen

The 1080 can literally display anything at any framerate at any resolution except 4K, I can't imagine games will get so intense in 2 years it'll become obselete
The next generation has nothing to offer except 4K, and with this current gen just barely clipping the 60fps 4K mark, nvidia already set themselves up for it

wtf is that? a server rack?

where are its HD's?

Actually I thought neo was the next PlayStation, I guess it's pro, it might actually be a few years later and actually 4K
I just know the next rehashes of current consoles are not targeting nor anything capable of 4K gaymen

nigga wtf?

a power supply is a power supply. 12 volts go in, 5 volts come out. You hook up a GFIC and you're golden, its the most generic POS computer component there is.

You don't need gold plated PSU's you consumerist nitwit

It is generic, and it can be a POS and work. That's why the PSU market (not Amazon or newegg, actual cheapass bulk retail) is flooded with chinkshit PSUs.
Yeah it's the most basic part of a PC but it's also the most vital. If any other complement fucks up, the complement fucked up. If the PSU can hold a steady voltage, or can't handle power surges/drops, or can't even hold up the insane amperage being drawn by your components (which are made with perfect power supply in mind), then you risk several components being fucked with. Varying current loads and incorrect voltage WILL destroy your computer, this is fact.
Plus the difference between a chinkshit PSU and a top-tier PSU is usually $30 at most. Nobody needs to spend $100 on their 120v to 5 and 12v converter, but there's plenty of $50 PSUs that have thousands of people using them for years without issues.
There's more than enough people who have blown a computer (or even less severe and more common, just blown their power supply) to warrant spending that extra $30 over some random garbage

So basically I'm saying $50 is the low cutoff point for being sure you're not getting total garbage
Is that too much?
You spent how much on the rest of your computer?

Didn't the latest batch of corsair units blow up frequently

nah, thats fine.

I thought you were some sort of retail whore.

I honestly don't know what is good (I went with a $60 seasonic because cheap and Cred Forums has a hardon for brands), but I personally have seen a shitty PSU fuck up. It will happen when you least expect it, and they can destroy vital components when they do

Holy shit, I made the same mistake. My old case apparently had little bumps built into it already so when I got a new case I didn't understand why things didn't fit and the PC wasn't starting up.

I think those tiny little connectors with the + and - on them that all go next to each other on the little pin thing and have to be in exactly the right order is also bullshit.

The manual does a great job of clearing up what goes where on the front panel I/O clusterfuck but who reads that?
Luckily I don't think you can severely fuck anything up by messing that up, not sure though, I think I did it right but my hard drive access light never turns on...
I agree it's bullshit though, like they couldn't have just made it a full plug even if 50% of it isn't used on certain cases? Instead of a dozen single-wires?

Mine is a 650w mexican no brand of roughly $20. Been working for years and it even has leds.

How's that $30 saved treating you
Was it worth it?

>spent $100 on seasonic 80+ gold
>seasonic 80+ platinum is now $100

Whats thr best 550w psu

Seasonic Mkii. Modular, 80+ bronze, $60
It's 520w tho

>you are joking, don´t you`? How are Furryfag that loaded with cash and why do they spent it on badly drawn art?
>And why do they want to save their stuff on some "random" anons Nas?

I assumed that user was earning thousands in aggregate or something but I suppose it's possible that a 3d rendered animation might be commissioned by people here and there.

I've had a few friends who went deep into furdom, not fursuits but definitely alter-egos that they took very seriously. I can imagine them commissioning art of it and why not a 3d animation of your character either prancing about like a hair commercial or taking dicks?

These people were adults who graduated, got jobs, often very good ones and never quite left some childish things behind. We're adults and we get to define what that means for ourselves.

is this the new thread?

I just bought a LG 29UM68-P on sale for $230. Stoked, but need to update my 780 (non-Ti). It's got coil whine that's increasing over time and it's annoying me now. Am I better off going for a RX480 and leveraging the freesync capabilities of the monitor, or getting a 1070?

>I must be a retard, I can't get this link to display. Yes I am putting in the periods and the like.
I think it's expired, it's short term sharing and it's been up there for >12hours

have an issue here.

upgraded my pc with 2 new gpus in SLI.
I have a overkill power supply that is more than enough for any configuration.

anyways been playing with the gpus for 2 days everything was fine playing BF4. THEN

after 20 minutes or so hear a loud pop/bang see a big white spark behind the gpu I assume maybe the psu. After the bang immediately see blackish smoke come out the back exhaust fan I then immediately shut off power switch and pulled plug.

I couldnt find any burnt parts anywhere the smoke stunk up the place bad, mobo is spotless, everything runs fine, Im guessing that it was one of the gpus that burnt up.

The crazy part is my rig still works just fine even tested out bf4 for a minute and now im benchmarking 3dmark on 1 of the gpus alone.

WHAT SHOULD I DO?
the cards work fine but shit I dont like the idea of that happening again but next time it kills my mobo/components

I got plenty of money thats not an issue but I want to tips from people who experienced this.

never had a problem like this before ever.

Is it OK to use any power cable for a good GPU?
I lost the cable somehow..

...

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