/pcbg/ - PC Building General:Research Edition

*new mobo and cpu I mean.

>K part
>H170 chipset
>No SSD
>Fully-modular gold PSU
>16GB of RAM
pcpartpicker.com/list/vvB4pb

So I forgot to budget in for Windows 10, how easy is windows to pirate and activate and everything?

I second B&H being cool. I live only about 60 miles from them, so I usually get my order next day.

Boy did I kinda fuck up Cred Forums. Here's what happened I was installing my mobo and when I finished I realized I used wrong screws for standoffs. I tried to get them out ,but no luck because they now turn with the screw and I cant get them out. I tried holding them from back and front ,but no luck as well. The mother board is only slightly lose if you pull it out but for the most part it is stable. If I finish it building like this (because I pretty much have no choice now) will my mobo get short circuited by wrong screws or will it be ok?

As long as it can hold the weight you should be good to go user,just don't fuck it up next time.

It holds the mobo fine. It just moves like a lowrider if you push it.

Anyone know any cases with 5.25 inch bays and 3.5 inch device bays on the front? all the nuATX cases are getting rid of them. My budget is $100.

You shou not wait for Kaby lake it'll be the exact same shit as right now, which this gens lineup is already fairly overpowered for most things, as intels higher-end CPUs have been for a while

Standoffs are hex-shaped so you can grip them with a wrench or pliers while to untwist your mistake out

N200

Personally I'd say a used mobo makes the most sense. Otherwise, Skylake.

Needs some tweaking, this user is mostly correct.

If you plan to OC, you need a Z170 mobo.
If not, get an i5 6500 or i3 6100
Get a 250GB SSD
8GB RAM is enough

Install from USB, skip license step, activate using microsoft Toolkit

Install your mobo properly faggot.

Probably significantly higher clockspeeds compared to skylake. I'm expecting an almost 4GHz locked i5, but that's just a guess.

I'm looking on amazon now and i'm gonna get the 431 plus, it's got all of that shit I want, plus 5 HDD bays, they're horizontal, but I don't care, based cooler master for keeping it real and having space for card readers.

970 or 1060 or 480 ?

970 if you can get it cheaply.

I have tried that but it did not work

>ITX meme build

4GB 470

Since I couldnt get answer in previous thread:

Are there better PSU in terms of quality-to-price ratio, than Seasonic S12-II/M12-II?

Also, what CPU cooler I REALLY need for i7-6700k? Outside of Cred Forums, everybody would recommend me getting some monster cooler that would get in the way of RAM slots or something.

Flip the coin between 1060 and 480. Custom, of course. They have similar performance after all.

Isnt 970 a little too old now? Sure, can be found for lower price, but it is old card that Nvidia no longer support and have pitful amount of memory. Besides, both 1060 and 480 are better than it.

More benchmarks

Looks fine, get 3000MHz RAM for kicks. I really don't see how people rack up 1200 for 1080p.

>Are there better PSU in terms of quality-to-price ratio, than Seasonic S12-II/M12-II?
Hard to say considering I don't know what's available, Roland from Poland.

I already own all the drives from a previous build so its really only ~$900. But I agree, this wasn't a price conscious build, I selected all the parts I wanted and it added up to more than it's worth especially considering I only have a 1060.

I want to know the actual artist of this comfort. Reverse image search only gets me slide shows of pixel art on random sites, with no accreditation.

>Also, what CPU cooler I REALLY need for i7-6700k? Outside of Cred Forums, everybody would recommend me getting some monster cooler that would get in the way of RAM slots or something.

That really depends on how far you're planning to overclock it, doesn't it?

I have a 770, looking at either the 480 or 1060 to replace it. Meme me which one is better.

You guessed wrong. The clock speeds and core counts are literally the same.
Literally.

Also I'm 1080p/60fps so does it even really matter?

Does this thread count as aftercare for building a PC? Just finished my PC yesterday.

My EVGA 1060 superclocked idles at around 50 degrees, just jumped up to 70 degrees when I tried Overwatch in Ultra. Is this average? If not, anything I should do?

...

Check reviews for your card that include temperature analysis. 50C is way too hot for idle. Make sure you're getting accurate temperature readings and that the fan profiles are correct. And make sure your case has ventilation. (You did install the case fans, right?)

True. But lets say I wont go more than 4,4Ghz.

Mostly various Corsair and Cheiftek models around that price.

I'll bite, where are the _facts_ on clockspeeds? No currytech

hey lads, guy who was going to kill himself over this build from the last thread here. so I got to the test boot stage and it flashes the mobo screen for half a second, then says no bootable device. I guess this is a good thing (better than saying nothing at all), but I can't access the BIOS. the mobo says to press delete during POST but the screen flashes so fast it doesn't even register. is this a problem or should I just move on to putting in the gpu and hdd?

also, I have one more cable that the guide I'm watching didn't plug in. It's just labeled USB. do i put that in the 13 slot? I guess it's the cable for the front usb ports by the power button

de.pcpartpicker.com/list/WC3dbj

I'm from germany and I would have loved to go for the pixio PX277 but I don't really want to ship a monitor overseas.

For gaming: Can I savely change the RX480 8gb and go for a RX470 4/8gb? I'd rather pay less now and switch to a better graphics card every other year.

Reviews of the card maintaining a good temperature were one of the things that attracted me to it. I just went back to those reviews and apparently 50 degrees is the max I should be getting, oops.

Case fans are installed and working. I'm getting the temperature readings from Speccy, going to do research on fan profiles now because I'm honestly not sure what they are.

I want a graphics card with two DVI outputs but theres barely any around. Should I settle for just a dvi converter?

>It's just labeled USB. do i put that in the 13 slot? I guess it's the cable for the front usb ports by the power button
Slot 12 for USB3.0

Just spam delete as soon as you hit the power button

tomshardware.com/reviews/intel-7th-gen-core-kaby-lake-preview,4728-5.html
This is based on Intel's own slides. Same IPC, slightly higher clocks. Of course, that's just the ultra-low power SKUs.

I already have an xbox huge cable plugged into one of the slot 12 spots, this is a tinier one that looks like it would only go into 13, but i wasn't sure

also, does it matter which order my hdd and ssd are plugged in? should I have the ssd in the first slot?

newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007709 600007835 601203818 601210955 601204369&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=36

It's possible that the desktop CPUs will follow the same pattern, but I think they'll squeeze more out of the them to stay ahead of Zen.

>should I have the ssd in the first slot?
IMO just connect the SSD for now and install windows. You can add the other drive after.

Your EVGA model might just be semi passive in which case it's WAD. For example my Gainward 1060 also idles at 50c since it keeps the fans turned off until it passes that threshold.

>Can I savely change the RX480 8gb and go for a RX470 4/8gb
Yes, get the 4GB 470. But if the 6GB 1060 is the same price as the 4GB 470, get the 1060. AMD is usually too expensive in europe.
Also you need a 250GB SSD.

I've been looking up how to download windows 10 from a usd on a new computer and then transfering it to an ssd afterwards. Can someone confirm this is right?

1. On the start up I go into bios and boot from the USB
2. Download Windows 10 then move it to the SSD
3. Restart and set the SSD as the new boot drive

so it doesn't matter the order or slots? the second slot isn't some reduced power slot or something?

I got into the BIOS and it said the CPU temperature was 29c. that seems quite high for nothing running, doesn't it?

What is a stable driver for the gigibyte 1080?
When shit gets intense, my video dies.
;_;

to clarify, the cpu is an i5-6600k

Thanks man. I forgot to mention that I already own a 250gb SSD (850 EVO).

I went for AMD because of the freesync monitor and those seem to be less expensive than g-sync. Even though I don't really know if freesync is important.

>CPU temperature was 29c. that seems quite high
It's fine.

>it doesn't matter the order or slots
No, but you can't put your boot disk in a different slot after you install windows without some trickery

No, just make an install image, create a bootable USB drive with it, and install directly to SSD. You don't have to make any changes in BIOS anymore. I remember those days though.
microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/
Read about creating installation media.

>What is a stable driver for the gigibyte 1080?
Try putting it in another slot,sounds retarded but sometimes it just works.Also try eliminating all drivers and reinstalling them.

29 is just barely above a comfortable room temperature of 24ish. As it has a current going through it, 29 seems very very reasonable.

>nvidia
Par for the course

>I don't really know if freesync is important.
It's nice, but personally I'd say the tech isn't quite evolved enough yet. You need to have a high Hz monitor for Low Framerate Compensation (google it) and there are ghosting issues on early/cheaper freesync monitors. If you're on a 60Hz monitor the Freesync range is only like 40 - 60Hz, any lower FPS and you get studder.

I was looking into a 29UM68, but I don't think I'd pay more than 150USD for it used.

I bought a massive giganigga cooler, I thought it'd be lower. the room temperature is quite high though since I don't have any air or fans blowing to prevent dust entering the open case. I just thought this shit would be ice cold with the massive heatsink. I know I fucked up the thermal paste application but I guess I need to get everything installed to see how bad it is at idle

Alright guys first build for gaming after years of console, how bad is it?
pcpartpicker.com/list/PNnMCy
Keep in mind i already own the Tower, and heatsink for the cpu

Alright, I downloaded EVGA Precision and it seems to be idling at around 40 degrees now. Maybe I took the idle reading too prematurely after closing the game. The fan doesn't seem to kick in until 60 degrees, but even then it spins at the lowest possible setting. Still getting around 65-70 playing Overwatch on Ultra.

Should I kick up the fan speeds or am I worrying too much?

Worrying too much.

It's the first result on google

tfw

How'd I do Cred Forums?
Also is that "16.0GB Dual-Channel Unknown @ 1206MHz" something I need to fix? I imagine so since it's 2400MHz RAM.

>DDR
Double data rate, i.e 1206 x 2 = 2412

Meh/10
Small SSD, overkill CPU (unless you actually need it for rendering or something)

Ok, but shouldn't it recognize the brand?

Streaming muh gaymes and video editing, yes.

Anybody?

What's the meme case-fan of the moment? Preferable something cheaper, aka not Noctua

It's not air conditioning, you think a piece of metal is gonna drop temperatures below room temperature?

Corsair (non led) or be quiet!
>hating noctua
Wew lad

But the brand didnt make it

Noctuas are nice and all but $30 for a 3" wide fan is still redonk
I can cool my entire house with a $30 fan

Coolermaster makes $6 fans that get good reviews
But there are leds

>meme fan
>not noctua
What do expect as a reply?

You know how quiet those are? I have Fractal Design Silent Series R3:s now and they are quiet, but I don't feel like they have the best airflow.

>hating noctua
Not hating Noctua would probably have them if they weren't so expensive. As said.

Something not Noctua, there should be some inexpensive good fans out there.

1041uuu.tumblr.com/
f.hatena.ne.jp/u1041/

sometimes you can find gentle typhoons on ebay or sometimes sites like frozencpu, performancepc, etc. get a shipment in. Always try for those
also, you might want to look at akasa or noiseblocker, those are both ok
ek vardar are also really good, a little louder but not too bad, better than corsairs.
honestly take a look at the noctua redux, they're cheaper and still pretty damn good

Will a RX460 work in this toaster mobo?

Board:
gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2693&kw=GA-G31M-S2L#ov

Card:
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAM14SA2455

I don't care about bottlenecks.

Probably, since it has a PCIe slot.

Might want to make sure that the card fits in your case though. Also those cards don't have VGA.

Also your PSU is going to need a 6pin power connector

You gay nigger

so i'm thinking about including an SSD in my new build.

the thing that gets me is data loss after power off over 1 year or so. i really do like having my old computers boot up whenever it needs to. i have 2 old towers and last i remember they work fine.

so i was thinking of installing the os on a HDD. and programs/games on the SSD. would this still be significantly faster? or the OS having to execute on the HDD slow things down for negligible speed improvement?

whats the actual diffrence between a semi-equal clocking pascal GPU vs a polaris GPU ?
Which would be more future-proof and why ?

>inb4 tdp

I've built 2 systems so far and cannot decide which one would be best in the future at a fullHD screen

geizhals.de/?cat=WL-712477
geizhals.de/?cat=WL-709806

Yes i know that the gtx 1070 rig has no SSD but i really cannot go over 800€

btw im german

Got it backwards. OS on ssd games and media on hdd. Or games on ssd too if you have favs and a little extra space.

it's not backwards for my purposes. if the SSD loses data after power for 1 year, i'll have to repair/reinstall the OS. i'd rather not do that.

i'm also a jew, so i could swap the same SSD to new builds since there will be no system critical files on it, like the OS for example.

How do I make a gay-ass riced gaming PC that can match a Dell Precision 7910 for the same price?

You really want that SSD. Just put a fresh install of Windows on an old HDD before you put the computer in the closet, or you could probably clone / migrate from the SSD

You need to check benchmarks, the 1070 is way, way stronger than the RX480. The RX 480 = GTX1060 6GB.

techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_1070_Gaming_Z/26.html

Also if you're at 1080p / 60Hz just get the 1060 since AMD is way overpriced in a lot of Europe.

well, but what about the DX12/vulcan 1.0 compability, i always read when researching about it that the rx480 is stronger in that than the nvidia equals

i want the build to be compatible to future games as long as it can be (and maybe even be ready for VR)

also it should run all emulators currently released. (shouldnt be a problem i think)

I hear what you're saying, but you need to think about price/performance. Both cards are going to be great for 1080p, even in DX12/Vulkan. Yes, the 8GB RX480 will probably beat the 1060 slightly, but if you can get the 1060 6GB for significantly less, it's a better value.

>clone / migrate from the SSD

that option completely slipped my mind. thanks fampai.

well i can get the OC version of the 8GB RX 480(Nitro+) for just 20€ more than the cheapest 1060 6gb, i think that'd be a better deal ?
so, what about this build geizhals.de/?cat=WL-709806

how would you improve it ?

well my main concern is fucking up the thermal paste

quick question:
will a Intel Thermal solution BXTS15A CPU Cooler Heatsink provide enough cooling for a Intel Core i7 6700K?

why isnt there much cases that dont have the dvd and hdd waste of space?
I only have 1 hdd and 1 ssd, no dvd drive. And Im literally wasting all that space

How much would a GTX-1070 card price drop in Cyber Monday/Black Friday?

>BXTS15A
Kek, for the price you pay for that, you can get a Hyper 212 that cools much more effectively at lower fan speed (aka lower noise output)

Looks good to me, personally I'd get a 2TB HGST hard drive

Look for newer cases

Probably not much.

yeah thougt of that too but when i built the system it cost 806€

whats a good cheap 2 TB HDD ?

thanks alot ... you're my savior of 2 weeks of research

>whats a good cheap 2 TB HDD ?
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UM3102206

Another thing you could consider is dropping down to a 4GB 480. You might have some nice texture options but in my personal opinion (I have the 4GB 470) the 480 and 390 aren't strong enough to use 8GB well, just look at the Hyper performance on Mirror's Edge: Catalyst.

can reformatting improve overclocking and overall stability? I had Windows 8 then 8.1 and now Windows 10, without reformatting, so it's been awhile

>It holds the mobo fine. It just moves like a lowrider if you push it.
Wait, so you just invented suspension and sound dampening for motherboards?

FUND IT

hm, i'm not sure if i should do that ... i feel investing in the GPU is a better idea than going for something else

>newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UM3102206
>only 32MB of cache
Man that drive is old.

>if the SSD loses data after power for 1 year
It probably won't, SSDs are more reliable than HD but regardless...

SSDs are small, HDs are big. Just backup the entire SSD partition to the HD every now and then, make an HD partition the same size as the SSD and literally copy the partition over. It's overkill for what most purposes but if you're concerned, it will work.

Just a thought, if you wanted to save a few bucks. Like I said, you might have some nice texture options with 8GB VRAM. Consoles are stuck with 8GB RAM shared between the system and the GPU, so you certainly won't get locked out of playing games if you have 4GB VRAM.

Yeah but it's reliable and it's a storage drive. 7200RPM is plenty

>thermal paste
Speaking of, what is the meme paste these days?

>over specced gaming/work machine
pcpartpicker.com/list/fmbGJV

I need a cooler, was going to go with Corsair H100iv2 but seems to be incompatible with the case. I suspect I could make it work but I'll just go with something compatible on the same specs I think.

Pretty sure it's still Arctic Silver 5, but any old paste will do.

Is there any value at all in a 9600GT? I saw a couple of them at a thrift shop today and just curious if they're actually worth anything.

Is there any differance in cheapo 20$ wifi adapters and 150$ ones.

Just moved and I have good wifi but no access to wired internet. Current trying to game off a usb wifi adapter and it's fucking terrible

Maybe, if they cost like $30 or something. Why would you buy outdated tech anyway, my 750ti can even blow that thing out of the water

NO.

Do NOT.

Had 9800 as my first for longest time, 9600 is outdated and bad as hell.

A PCIe card is what you want. Main difference at this point is whether you want a 2.4GHz or 4GHz band adapter

If you don't have PCIe, PCI is fine. Might want to check.

suicidal user from the last threads here, I have everything installed now! I can access the BIOS so I wanted to check if the drives were installed properly. I went to the boot order to see the list but it only shows the SSD, not the HDD. is that normal or do I have a loose connection?

thanks to all the anons from the last thread who convinced me not to eat a bullet and keep going

All connected drives should be visible, double check everything to do with the HDD.

Maybe also check that it needs to be enabled in bios or something, depending on what SATA heads you used for it. Some mobos can enable/disable their extra sata heads.

I have the ssd in sata 0 and the hdd in sata 1, right next to each other. what would the option to enable it sound like? "enable sata head x" or something?

Just finishing building pc only will start with one stick of ram in on the right side who can I do to get both sticks working? Note this is with the hard drives unplugged doesn't seem to work with hard drives but not tested a lot

Yes

Windows 10 has known problems with PCI wifi cards, I actually haven't seen it confirmed that a single one actually works

how important is cable management? will this be fine? I think I'm ready to put the case back together if so

Has anyone bought PC parts from jet.com? How was the experience? Was thinking about getting a few parts from there now since they're having a 15% off 3 orders sale thing happening

It's more than fine. Cable management doesn't make any difference in cooling or other performance, it's just an aesthetics thing.

>Are there better PSU in terms of quality-to-price ratio, than Seasonic S12-II/M12-II?

what about:
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817182328
?

Why doesn't this work? Is it fixable?
PC keeps shutting down under load.

I've been running them on six separate cables for a year without problems, but thought I could cut down to three or four with dual PCI-Es...is this not possible?

>Gold rated
>$50
What sorcery is this? Only downside to it is not being modular, and having ugly cables.

>Only downside to it is not being modular
The Modular option is there for $60
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817182329

>It's more than fine. Cable management doesn't make any difference in cooling or other performance, it's just an aesthetics thing.
If cable management is bad enough, it can either make nice (by vibrating with air or hitting a fan) or impede airflow. Also, cables can melt occasionally.

user's is fine though, yeah.

Thank you, kind user.

I've got one, but I don't feel like pulling the card out of the case. Bought it for $10 at a used computer parts store. Device Manager says Realtek 8185 Extensible 892.11b/g Wireless Device. I specifically asked whether it would work with Windows 10, and the proprietor said that he thought it would considering the popularity of the chipset

which surge protector do I need to buy to hook up my modem to? as long as it has coax, I should be good, right?

amazon.com/dp/B00AAHT8GK/?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=WC28180&ref_=nav_ya_signin&th=1

Check in Disk Management as well

Not really sure what your question is about.. are those R9 295x2?

8-pin supplies 150W, 6-pin supplies 75W. So you're getting 375W through the power connectors and the last 75W through the PCIe.

What's the best way to set up a CPU fan direction wise?

I've variously seen builds where the lay "flat" over the CPU, not sticking out, other times where they are sticking out either with the face facilitating air flow horizontally or vertically through the case, rather to or away from the processor itself

Bless you user.

Oh shit it's the same guy wot did the koi one.

>the proprietor said that he thought it would considering the popularity of the chipset
He guessed.

>What's the best way to set up a CPU fan direction wise?
Depends on the design, some work one way, others work another. It's just the way that they decided to get air over the radiator blades.

Most good HSF these days use heat pipes and a fan perpendicular to the CPU.
I believe that the optimum is to have this fan blowing towards the back of the case.

Fan blowing through the heatsink is noisier for a given cooling power, but slightly more effective.

The vertical fans are better because airflow through the radiator is less restricted.

Two anons, two posts, literally two opposite opinions.

I love technology.

I will add that heatpipes have higher thermal conduction than even the best liquid metal thermal paste. And once you're using heat pipes, you can orient the rest of your stuff however you want.

Yeah, he didn't know for sure but it was the best option available for me at the time. He wasn't even aware that PCI wireless cards have driver issues with Win10 (because manufacturers haven't updated their drivers.. I had an old PCI card that didn't even have drivers for Win8.1). But his comment about the popularity convinced me to risk my $10.

Our opinions are the same. Imagine that the mobo is out of the case with only cooler attached. The mobo is the laid on a static pad, such the mobo is horizontal. The CPU cooler's fans will be mounted vertically, which is the same thing as perpendicularly.

980Ti Lightnings

After I changed from six to four cables the system shuts down every time I try to run benchmarks. I was told by the cableseller that this setup would work, but it's clearly not delivering enough power. Either I'm doing something wrong, the seller was misinformed, or the cables are faulty. Tried every combination.

My question is basically if it's normal for cards like these to require separate 6+2 PCI-Es in every connector. Six cables for two cards sound like overkill to me.

pcpartpicker.com/list/RyBCd6

This is my PC/Setup I'll be purchasing soon. Gonna code and play a ton of games on it. (I have a mac right now which is shit)

>GAMING POWER SUPPLY
what did they mean by this

Sounds like it is drawing too much from one connector which causes the PSU to panic and shut down. So yeah, you'll probably have to switch back to six cables config. Could try to get a refund on the cables that you bought.

It's a nonmodular PSU with enough cables for SLI setups. So a power supply that is targetting gamers that run dual-gpu configurations.

If that is the non working config, it's kinda hard to tell what's going on, but with a connector that is double 8-pin (or whatever) make sure that both plugs are in the same GPU.

Waste/10 macfag

I have an i5 4570k but never overclocked it
What speed and voltage is the best while still stable
Rvetyone seems all over the place and dont want to undercut it but dont want to fry either

"waste" explain

>with a connector that is double 8-pin (or whatever) make sure that both plugs are in the same GPU
Yeah, tried that earlier without any luck, but found some guy over at Tom's Hardware that claimed the pictured setup would work in some old thread about the same cards, so gave that a shot as well.

Anyway, thanks guys, guess I'm reverting to six cables.

>What speed and voltage is the best while still stable
Depends entirely on the silicon lottery.

of your parents money. Come back with a $1000 build and I'll critique it

>pcpartpicker.com/list/RyBCd6
>This is my PC/Setup I'll be purchasing soon. Gonna code and play a ton of games on it.
>"waste" explain

Well, your RAM is excessive for present day gaming, maybe you have some coding reason for needing 32GB?

You're going for 1440Hz gaming but a 1070 would do for that. For that matter, an i5 would do as well, especially with some light OC and you're clearly gearing up for heavy OC.

Heavily overclocking an i7 will make little difference to your 1080 and most of your components are bigger than they need to be. Especially the 750WPSU.

It's not a bad build but it's not an efficient way to spend money. You're a macfag though so wasting some money on shiny stuff is in your nature. It will be a good system, nothing wrong with it, it has more stuff than it needs but that's not going to hurt anything except your parent's wallet.

What

Not my "parents money" It's my money.

Went for overkill not budget. Not my parents money lol.

Was going for a 4k setup but decided to swap to 1440p without changing parts because I'm lazy.

>Was going for a 4k setup but decided to swap to 1440p without changing parts because I'm lazy.
I've done sort of the same thing so that I'll be ready for 4k when it's not absurdly expensive, except that I have slightly higher specs than you in everything except the GPU which is 1070.

Yeah 4k monitors are expensive atm. Not that it's an issue. Plus they aren't 144hz yet

In Europe a Acer 1440p IPS monitor is slightly more expensive than 4k,which is frankly retarded.

Is there a 1080 that does not suck big major dick or I should just wait for 1080ti?
>Asus:Hot as fuck and coil whines
>MSI:Is the Gaming Z even worth its shekels or they want me to pay for the RGB?
>Zotac:Hey senpai I got you a 1ton GPU to sag your card!

>In Europe a Acer 1440p IPS monitor is slightly more expensive than 4k,which is frankly retarded.
They have higher refresh rates and are more useful so it's not entirely irrational.

My budget is about $800, with tax I am a bit over budget, are there any parts I can exchange for cheaper ones with similar functionality (including case)?

Are there any other issues here with parts, compatibility with anything here, etc. if so, please specify; often I have seen replies saying "X is shit" but not explaining why and not suggesting an alternative in the same price range.

I apologize for mobile but I literally do not have a PC at the moment.

Does anyone know what the difference is between these two versions of the same model cooler?
ID-COOLING FROSTFLOW 240L-R
ID-COOLING FROSTFLOW 240L-W

>Not using PC Partpicker on mobile
Nigga it's almost WANT people to find flaws.Anyway you might want to try this
pcpartpicker.com/list/nkhsZ8

Partspicker is better for letting us see what's in there and look at alternatives. Especially since you're trying to shave cost off it.

What's the difference between PWM and FLX, in e.g. the Noctua NF-A14?
I know that with PWM you are able to control the fan speed from the motherboard, but if I plan to use an fan controller does it matter?
The FLX is only a dollar cheaper so would it be worth buying the PWM instead, or does it mess something up if you control a PWM fan with the voltage?

In this case the PWM fan itself seems to be better than the FLX, but in general?

I did try it on mobile, I was using that as a base but I kept track of the parts on Amazon as that is where I will likely order from due to shipping speed and that I have Prime.

I had a similar build to that initially, but I heard a lot of bad things about the Micro ATX, namely poor connectivity and sound integration.

Half of the reason I posted was looking for a better mobo than that, but cheaper than the one currently listed.

Do these help?
pcpartpicker.com/product/s9Gj4D/msi-motherboard-b150gamingm3
pcpartpicker.com/product/k4dFf7/asus-motherboard-z170e

One is red one is white.

They do, the first one especially as it is cheaper. Are there any issues with compatibility with the rest of my build, and how is its quality? Does it have any major issues?

Forgive me, this is my first time building a PC.

This would be wonderful, if it would be available in Poland. Sadly, none of the Rosewill products are. For whatever reason.

Importing would cost a lot, too.

Sucks, right?

Put the parts in part picker,it usually highlights major incompatibilities.Just don't buy a shitty PSU lest you want to get fucked in the arse.

>One is red one is white.
I can't believe I didn't work that out.
Thanks user.

I am from "sweden" and I am looking into getting some simple AMD setup, I am pretty broke and just want something that can play at least overwatch at 720p with low settings at constant 60fps.

Could anyone help me out?

Sweden, yes? What is your budget?

>I am from "sweden"
Is that a code phrase like "Dave sent me" and you get special service from tripfags?

I guess around 3000kr which is roughly 300€ and a bit close to 350$

Some sample cheap builds using Swedollars.

Interesting, I might go buy some old used computer since I am too poor for new stuff.

Best of luck, user.

thanks and thanks for giving some help.

>Th !e.FaLconO6
So what's your website?

Want to put together a desktop for my little brothers bday that he will be able to upgrade later. he mainly plays csgo and minecraft.

pcpartpicker.com/list/VXq9Cy

anything wrong here? should I get a cheaper psu?

>Sucks, right?
Yup.
I don't know what you have in Poland, but other reputable brands include Seasonic, Super Flower, Enermax, EVGA, and Corsair.

>This would be wonderful, if it would be available in Poland
iktf
I'm making a build in China. Everything imported has 20% minimum markup, only a handful of components are actually produced locally (even if they're made in a local factory, they're still exported and packaged and then reimported).

And half of what I want from partspicker just doesn't exist here.

Corsair used to have bad rep. But did it change?

How about CX650M model for example? 80 Plus Bronze, price is okay.

I dont want to have my PC get screwed over within a year or two, because I picked bad quality PSU.

I am also a poorfag living in SEA who just put together a dirt cheap rig. All of my parts are used but in your case I advice against getting used hdd and psu, which is pretty much playing Russian roulette. Here's the cost
I3-2120 and an h61 mobo: $70
2X4GB RAM sticks: $30
640GB Wd HDD: $18
Gtx 750ti: $80
Case and 250w psu: $15
All together they cost a bit more than $200. I suggest you look for a Sandy i5 if possible, and maybe rx460 or gtx 950 because they are have more recent tech.
For 720p gaming that should allow you to stick with medium settings while being able to maintain 60fps in most cases.

Looking for a build for a friend that can run World of Warcraft: LEgion on Ultra settings. That's about all he wants it to do. Here's what I've got so far.
pcpartpicker.com/list/GsRRVY

Does anybody know about dual GPUs? I have a 1070 but I'm kinda worried I should buy another with my leftover budget

Friend has noctua nh-u12s with 6700k and doesn't overclock at all. Runs fine and warmish.

>they require quite beefy PSU
>motherboard needs to support them as well
>you need to really consider your airflow or otherwise they'll easily overheat
>liquid coolers are useful too although not required
>they're never as good in practise as you'd think
It's usually better to buy more expensive model rather than two cheaper ones, but since you have one already that doesn't apply to you. The price to performance ratio will not be good but it's not the absolutely worst way to spend money on hardware. If you have excess income and want to try it then just go for it. Another option is to sell your 1070 and buy a 1080, Titan or perhaps 1080TI when it launches.

>Does anybody know about dual GPUs?
More trouble than they're worth generally.

They don't work properly with all games, can be a pain to configure/install. Case internal temperature can get pretty high.

I've tried it, had all sorts of issues, wasn't worth the money.

If you already have one then you could try it out but you're better off finding a way to turn your 1070 into a 1080.

I'd consider an AIO cooler if I were you. Super simple to install, about the same performance or slightly higher than top-tier air coolers and no need to worry about RAM clearance, motherboard bending or anything like that. They do require space and mounting points from your case though.

Just installed an i5-6600k and cpu-z is going wonky with it. Stress test first goes as high as 6000 but then drop to 1000 for some reason. Temps in games and idle are okay though and games run smoothly. Mobo's an asus z170-p

>This would be wonderful, if it would be available in Poland. Sadly, none of the Rosewill products are. For whatever reason.
But what is this then?

newegg.com/global/pl/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817182329

This, too, is Rosewill.

Which is why I asked about Corsair CX650M.

In general, whenever I ask at shops, they usually have lot of Chieftek or SilentiumPC PSUs. I have no idea about quality those models.

Yeah, but what about the price?

Corsair Hydro Series H55 would be good?

Can I buy a 1080 and slap it on or are they incompatible
If so would 2 1080s be overkill

Also would the Titan be worth the performance boost from a 1070

You haven't said a thing about what kind of resolutions and framrates you're thinking about playing on. 1080 and Titan are designed for 1440p >60fps or 4k gaming, they're very bad purhases for 1080p.

>Can I buy a 1080 and slap it on or are they incompatible
With your 1070? Nope, SLI requires that the cards are exact same model.

>If so would 2 1080s be overkill
Two of them? Absolutely overkill.

>Also would the Titan be worth the performance boost from a 1070
With Titan you're paying a huge premium for the "best of the best" performance. So it's never worth the price but if you have to have the best card on the market then there are really no options. If you're considering one but unsure then I'd recommend waiting for 1080TI and see how good it is.

>Can I buy a 1080 and slap it on or are they incompatible
Not technically incompatible but you might get weird results or gimp the 1080. SLI usually has each card handling half the screen, imagine how that works with different clock speeds and processing power...
There are other modes of operation for SLI though and some of them might work better with dissimilar cards. Honestly, I've never seen or read of it being done but it's probably technically possible.

>If so would 2 1080s be overkill
Fuck yes, 2x1080 is for 4k ultra or something.

>With your 1070? Nope, SLI requires that the cards are exact same model.
I know that's best practice and it's what literally everyone does but is it actually impossible to run dissimilar cards? I think it's allowed.

Bruh, You're not gonna get any answers here.

As cringey as it sounds, look for em on reddit.

>As cringey as it sounds, look for em on reddit.
Reddit has its uses. It's a better archive of information than Cred Forums, they're threads are naturally sticky and their reader-base is larger.

Did you read what he said? Yes it's impossible, it won't be SLI
You can always run plain multi GPU but there's like no support whatsoever for that

Nope. SLI requires that the cards are exact same model.

You can have different clock speeds, memory amounts or manufacturers but they must be the of the same model. AMD allows different models from same series for crossfire but Nvidia are being jews and disallowing it so that you'd waste your money buying suboptimal parts for SLI.

Should I get i5-6400 if all I play is Dota, or is there something better in that price range?

Anybody?

I one ran into such guide on Cred Forums, but I dont know, if this is outdated or not. According to site:

realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/PSUReviewDatabase.html

Seasonic S12-II is discountinued already, for example.

Forgot to attach, silly me.

Just look for an EVGA OR super flower mane,never go cheap on the PSU.

pcpartpicker.com/list/LXNZcc

I'm from Eastern Europe, so some of my choices are based on what is available locally and to get the price a little bit lower. Any opinions?

Do people still buy poptarts when building new rigs?

>mfw mine is under the avoid category

>Do people still buy poptarts when building new rigs?
Depends on what you chose for your cooler.

>poptarts
What?

No EVGA PSUs in offer.

Generally, mostly Corsair, Cheftec or SilentiumPC.

>never go cheap on the PSU

But they have absurd prices here!

Corsair RM650i ("Tier 3" on image I posted) cost 550 PLN (~120 EUR). CS850M (no lower ones, for some reason) - 560.

Seasonic S12-II was going for 300 PLN, mentioned Corsair CX650M around 280.

Toaster cases I assume.

Please import from your greatest ally and friendly neighbour Deutschland. We have everything you need in stock.

>mine not even listed

How it looks (I have the Thermaltake Toughpower DPS G RGB 750W instead, is not listed there)?

Orite lads. Was here a few days ago taking opinions on an I3/1060 build designed to allow me to push through upgrades sooner or later.

Opinions welcome: uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/WvGNzM

Where were you when I sold my old 750W EVGA unit for 60 euro?Well,you might want to grab that corsair and see how that works out.

Hey, could I get some opinions on this prebuilt pc.

>Prebuilt
I know, that's whats confusing me.
I'm currently living in the Netherlands and there is just one decent website for ordering components. And i hand picked a decent build that I though I would order, a mini ATX for size with GTX 1070 etc.
Then I found this prebuilt miniATX BitFenix Prodigy computer on the same site, pretty much same specs but cheaper than handpicked and only 8gb RAM instead of 16. But thats easy to mend yourself if needed.

What is the catch? or should i just buy a >prebuilt

Maybe you're lucky, there are 2 brands under AVOID that have decent product(s)

>Link for the computer if interested.
azerty.nl/0-5997-946410/azerty-vr-standard-i5-6500-3-2-ghz-gtx-1070-ram-8-gb-1-tb-hdd-240gb-ssd-dvd-rw.html

Gib price,also the PSU might be shit that's why it's low,It's waiting to blow up :^)

Price 1119€ as seen here

I guess for 50 EUR transport cost?

Works out? You mean that nobody really checked, if Corsair got better yet?

>I'm currently living in the Netherlands and there is just one decent website for ordering components.
Netherlands is part of the EU. You can easily order components from, say, a French or German site(though obviously you might end up paying more for shipping if you're not careful).

I figured it's a risk but right now I'm leaning towards just getting this one as i wouldn't have to actually build the mini ATX which can be a bit of a pain. (I've built before, its just time consuming and with a small case a bit sketchy)

The catch might be the PSU and motherboard otherwise does not seem horrible.

Yeah, maybe. Some info seems to be false too. I have the EVGA Supernova 750B and at least it says on the box/manual that is has a Japanese main capacitor and all kinds of safety features.

Yeah. i think i need to find that out first.

Chatting with a rep from there now, asking what models the mobo and PSU are.

Just purchase goods for at least 500€ so you don't have to pay the shipping :^)

That corsair unit is actually pretty good mate,if I remember correctly the problems with Corsair arose around a specifical unit but this one seems dandy.

>brands
You know seasonic manufactured some real no name crap a few years ago

pcpartpicker.com/list/JpsxgL
Is this a good high end gaming/video editing build? Also looking to go into SLI and VR in the future.

PSU: Corsair VS450
Mobo: ASUS H110M-A/M.2

Actually decen right?

>Z170
>i3
Don't. Even if you plan to upgrade, overall you'll overpay by doing this. Get a H170/110 mobo or a i5-6600K.

They still manufacture """"no name"""" crap (whatever that even means) today. They are an OEM.

Thoughts?
Feedback?

You mean CX650M?

I mean, it wont fry or damage somehow i7-6700k?

Their CS Series 650W Modular 80+ GOLD have acceptable price too.

It is worth buying the Gerome case? Never done liquid cooling before.

what should I do to a fresh pc? just finished my first build. I updated the bios and set the ram xmp, what else do people sometimes forget?

I would personally get a larger PSU, and go with an M.2 SSD.
but thats just me. if you cant afford an M.2 then what you have will be more than fine and plenty fast.

update drivers, turn off xbox compatibility shit so it doesn't do its game limitation thing

General Question:

I have a 250GB SSD housing my OS that I need to wipe clean in order to start a fresh install with a new OS for my new build.

So what I want to do is use a USB in order to go to my factory defaults on this SSD while using that same USB to hold a Windows 10 ISO. Will that be a problem?

How about this?

Also I just realized this would be stock cooled CPU. Should I throw in a cheap liquid cooler?

Would it be possible to fit all this in an Elite 130 case? It's even smaller than the Prodigy M i think.

>I have a 250GB SSD housing my OS that I need to wipe clean in order to start a fresh install with a new OS for my new build.
Pretty sure whatever OS you'll install will give you the option to format it at the time of installation.

trash

Mid-grade build

So I can put my Windows 10 onto a USB, choose to boot from the ISO and then itll ask to clean my SSD clean?

Yes

Thanks a hundred

>he wants a fragile glas container filled with a deadly virus that will turn mankind into zombies right at the front of his rig that his mother will brake while cleaning his cum encrusted basement dungeon
So this is how we all gonna die..

sheeit my strategy of installing windows 10 and trying to do the free "upgrade" with the AT trick didn't work. Is there a go-to keygen or anything like that?

>strategy of installing windows 10
Easy. You don't.

I built this pc specifically for windows. I unfortunately have to use it for things that don't run through wine. I'm using it exclusively for windows applications, I have my laptop for everything else that windows will never touch

Somebody?

I dont know what to think anymore.

Rx 480 4gb or gtx 1060 3gb?
I won't play many new games, and i need something that works well with current technologies. I want a stable open source linux driver. Also the gtx 1060 is 30€ cheaper.

Old post, but you want DDR4 instead of DDR3

Looks good. Break the RAM up into a x2 4GB kit. He'll have room to add x2 4GB again later because that mobo has four RAM slots.

Drop the cooler.

PSU is fine. Can make due with a 450W, depending on future upgrade path.

Nice cheap build, although that i3 is pretty dated, as you noted.

Go with a B150 mobo, like this one.
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128881&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Break the RAM into x2 4GB sticks. Mobo has room for more.
The 2GB RX 460 is the same price as 750Ti but generally better, not sure about WoW:L specifically, check benchmarks.
Don't need paste, CPU comes with it.
SSD is probably too big. Get a 250GB then an HGST 2TB HDD for storage. You'll end up paying about $100 instead of $160.
Drop the optical drive unless he really needs it.

Repost your parts list after revision.

i3 6100 is fine if all you play is DOTA

Can't overclock with a H170 mobo, need Z170. Either drop to i5 6500 (use the stock / included cooler) or change out your mobo.
PSU is a little strong. You can easily get away with 450W if you're not planning on any heavy upgrades, like multiGPU or a huge i7 overclock.

Just bought $3K worth of poptarts with my last build. Worth every penny

>Also I just realized this would be stock cooled CPU. Should I throw in a cheap liquid cooler?
Isn't air coolers better at low prices. The Hyper 212 EVO is popular from what I have heard, don't know whether it will fit or not though.

You could simply install Windows 7, you know?

Definitely do not buy a new AM3+ platform at this point. It's a dead socket, no CPU upgrade potential. If you really want to, get it used. There are plenty on the market. All new platforms use DDR4, so you won't even get to reuse your RAM. Personally I'd say an i3 6100 +B150 mobo is what you want. Plenty of upgrade room, decent performance unless you're doing something heavily multithreaded (i.e., something other than gaming.)

Try to afford a 240GB SSD
Change HDD to any HGST 2TB (you can get one for $50)
Make sure that that 480 is factory overclock, if not get one that is. A good price would be $230 for a factory OC'd 4GB 480.

Looks OK. Only get the Z170 if you want to overclock later.
Split RAM into x2 4GB kit.
Save for an SSD.
Change HDD to any HGST 2TB (you can get one for $50, not sure about price in your currency)
Make sure your case supports microATX mobos

Nice spec'd prebuilt. If you can get that for

>212 EVO

You reckon the airflow wouldn't be a problem? Thats why i am considering liquid.

I like windows 10 :^)

I'll just download the top seeded activator off the pirate bay

Why would the airflow be a problem?

>shilling for Botnet 10
Hello, Agent Smith.

Microsoft Toolkit, get it off extratorrent from sademPC or whatever that guy's name is

Not sure about the linux driver, but RX480 will be better in future titles. DX11 games mostly give the full 1060 an advantage. The 3GB 1060 also has a cut down chip in addition to half the VRAM; it's about 10% slower, which is why it's priced like the RX470.

Small case? I guess not. I wont be OC'ing anyway.
212 EVO vs Stockcooler tho? Recommendable?

>get a 250GB SSD (can't see how big yours is)

It is a 500GB SSD. any reason to have 250gb over 500gb? Or you thought it was below 250gb?

>212 EVO vs Stockcooler
212 EVO is obviously better, but if you won't OC the stock cooler is fine. I'd probably get some thermal compound though, i don't even want to know what Intel puts on the stock cooler.

Personally 500GB isn't cheap enough yet for a "why not" purchase. Your OS will take about 30GB, I can't imagine installing more than 200GB of programs at a time. That's like five or so recent AAA games installed concurrently.

Thanks
Fair enough. That's why 'ill have the added 1TB HDD for storage anyway.

And of course the SSD isn't your storage drive. You want a HDD for that.

>tfw got 512GB SSD for $80
But I NEED a spinny spin drive right

Nice buy, warranty? Only you know how much storage you need. Personally I have 8TB as 4TB + 2x 2TB. All HGST drives with

Where else would you store terabytes of anime if not on a spinny spin?

The worst part is that I already have everything and I'm browsing with it :^), except the video card. Is the msi 480 on amazon already factory overclock? I'm buying it there because I have credit there. But I'm still planing to buy an 250gb SSD, 750 or 850?

Regarding monitors

Whats more enjoyable 144Hz or higher resolution, if budget doesn't allow for both.

And I think I will be playing both CSGO and RPGs. Probably more hours in CS to be expected but.. idk..

Asus Z170-A or regular Pro Gaming if the most important thing to me is the sound quality? I'll get a DAC eventually, I already have a DAC and a meme headphones.

I'm not a loser who watches chinese cartoons m8. Got to love economical spinnies though, obviously I do.

Clearly I can only a guess at which build is yours, quote something useful (your build) and I'll advise you, faggot.

Which RPGs? If it's nothing too demanding I'd really recommend saving for 1440p 144Hz Freesync/Gsync. What graphics card will be driving your monitor?

I downloaded the driver for my graphics card but it doesn't detect anything. Do I need to enable it in the BIOS first? It's just using the built in Intel one

Plug your monitor into the graphics card's port, not the integrated port.

Don't worry I've seen the meme too

>I'm not a loser who watches chinese cartoons m8
We are all anonymous here, no need to lie user.

I need help what build is better and able to run games better?

1) pcpartpicker.com/list/md6jnn
or
2) pcpartpicker.com/list/9RwpBP

>Which RPGs? If it's nothing too demanding I'd really recommend saving for 1440p 144Hz Freesync/Gsync. What graphics card will be driving your monitor?

Witcher 3, stuff like that. By RPGs i just meant games that dont require super high frame rates.

Im going for the GTX 1070. I'd love to save up for the 1440p 144hz, but they are super expensive and I am currently working abroad so i feel like its risky to buy super high end monitors as i will not take them with me if I move to another country in the coming years.

Both will run more or less equally since CPU and GPU are the same and don't get a stock RX480.

I tried it with both displayport and hdmi and I just get a black screen. did I fuck up my gpu installation or is it a driver thing?

They're almost identical builds. Only difference really is the brand of components. I'd buy a larger SSD, 250GB. Also split the RAM into x2 4GB sticks.

Hmm, depends on how big your monitor is. I don't know the stats off the top of my head, but at certain monitor sizes + viewing distances, a higher PPI becomes worthless.

Running AAA games at 1440p is going to be demanding. A 1070 is good for 1440p 60Hz or 1080p 144Hz. Personally I'd go with a 1080p Gsync monitor and use VSR to get 1440p geometry, etc when you can run it (old games, CS).

Check in Device Manager for your display adapters

Is there something called "upgrade anxiety"? Where right as you finally get the part(s) you ordered you get cold feet about taking your machine apart and installing the new ones? It happens every time with me.

Shopping/planning is more fun than working

im always really really excited to swap out parts
shit sometimes I'll sell parts just to sidegrade to other parts just to play with hardware I've not used before
I do get some nostalgia for some parts though. Selling my 290 was hard because it was the first really nice GPU i ever had, even though i was swapping in a 295x2 i still felt kinda bad

am I dumb if I buy a new LGA2011 motherboard at this point (not 2011-3)? I've been looking at E5-2680 xeons from ebay. should I get something else instead if I want at least 6 cores and ECC memory?

I've put together a few builds for this general

Please gib comments, suggest other builds, like a rendering build, a NAS build etc.

I'm going to add a couple VR builds

pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/

The total is 500€~. I'll be upgrading the PSU and the GPU and a good CPU cooler to start overclocking it. I currently have a 750ti, i5-4460, 8gb RAM and a shitty PSU (though 650w) and a shitty mobo, but a decent case and disks (250gb 850 EVO SSD, 4tb WD and 1tb seameme HDDs).

I guess I'll get a PSU next month, but won't be able to get a 1070 until next june or so.

So I get first a 1070 or go for these stuff there?

Hell I was sweating trying to make my first build.

It's still not done, found I out my old GPU wouldn't work, and I needed another stick of RAM.

>Check in Device Manager for your display adapters

only shows the intel hd graphics 530

Get a new graphics card first. The i5 4460 is a good CPU. No need to upgrade that at all, at least for a a while.

Graphics card is shit tier. If you're at 1080p / 60Hz, just get the 6GB 1060. 1070 is way overkill

My first build was also nerve-wracking. It does get a bit easier after you have the experience of building your first PC, but any major upgrades that cost you hundreds of dollars will still have you sweating unless you're one of those people who tinkers for the fun of it. I just like my machine to work and really wish this kind of major upgrading didn't have to be so stressful.

Which graphics card? Reseat it in the PCIe slot. Make sure you plugged in the 6-pin or 6+2-pin power connector from the PSU to card.

Then check in Device Manager again. If nothing under Display Adapters, check for any unrecognized devices.

you're not dumb now is prime time
and yes look at the 2670, they're only 70-80 bucks and 8 cores
with a ual cpu motherboard and 64gb ecc you're looking at a total platform cost of around 500-600
im doing it and anyone that needs performance on a budget should too

Well, I planned to get a 1440p/144hz monitor next year.
But fuck it, these are too much expensive, I'll seek for a good deal on a 1060 then. I'll sell it when the volta or however comes out and get a fully upgrade then.

r9 fury. I guess I need to take the case apart and look in there that everything is plugged in properly

I got an offer for a single-socket Supermicro LGA2011 board for 250€ from a reseller, and I'm considering buying it and pairing it with a 2680 and 32GB ECC RAM from ebay. I'm not going dual-socket myself due to the power draw of such a system, and since it's overkill for my use.

Yeah that card probably takes x2 6+2pin.

oh shit it takes two? I think I only plugged in one. I think I only have one cable

ok yeah I definitely only have one cable. so I guess I need one in each slot, but where do I put them on the PSU? right next to each other? does the order matter?

Check that particular Fury model's specs. But you should be able to see how many connections the card takes. Also if your PSU is weak (below 500W) you're only getting one 6+2pin connector

might want to see if you could use the 2670 instead. looks similar and might save you a few bucks, best of luck user

Post your PSU model

NEW THREAD

it's an evga supernova g2 650

by one cable I meant one cable plugged into the fury, I have a shit ton of the cables since the psu came with like 4. Does the fury need two of these 6+2 cables plugged into it?

Yes, it needs two power connectors.

Reposted. Building this computer for a friend who just wants to play WoW: Legion on it. He also has a few CD's he likes to use so the optical drive is necessary, only read though, he doesn't burn anything
pcpartpicker.com/list/M7vC8K

i've never built anything before i have no idea what im doing

Edit, just changed the HDD to 2TB for the same price
pcpartpicker.com/list/tJRh7h