/pcbg/ - PC Building General: No Spoonfeeding Edition

>I dont like mITX or micro atx boards
If you get a cheaper motherboard, case, and pirate windows then you'll be able to afford an i5-6500.

Bought a Radeon HD 6870 for $5, used it for a while and stuck it in a spare tower and sold it on craigslist. Also bought a box of RAM for $20 at the same sale, most worked perfectly and it had a sealed pair of 8gb that I'm using in my laptop right now.

For your desk, look on craigslist or wherever. Try your local Habitat for Humanity ReStore too, they might have some decent ones. Or get a cheap VESA wall mount from Monoprice.

Looks good, consider breaking your RAM up into x2 4GB. And of course adding that $60 240GB SSD.

Be aware that the Win10 free upgrade offer is over.

>mobo doesnt come with [soundcard]? Shit.
He's trolling, of course it has onboard audio. Check the mobo's specs

>Isn't the improvement worth it? Logicalincrements list the 6600 single-threaded performance as 121% a i7 5960X while a 6500 is at 107%, sounded like a good deal for about 20 bucks of difference
That's because of the boost clockspeed, 3.6GHz for 6500 and 3.9GHz for the 6600. But my guess is that the 6600 will thermally throttle if you're at 3.9 for any length of time unless you also buy an aftermarket cooler. The base clock is guaranteed.

>Why should I go with a Micro motherboard? I'm very ignorant.
If you're asking about the form factor, you can probably find B150 in any size, including mini-ITX, microATX, and ATX. But for a standard build you really don't need a full ATX mobo, so you can get away with a smaller case.

4GB is a waste of money now and will limit his upgrades.

Who else /cookiecutter/ here?

pcpartpicker.com/list/R77Jnn

>all PC parts arrived in the mail
>except the RAM, which will arrive on Monday
I guess I'll install the power supply.and cooler.

Why would you build an AMD now? Either build Intel or wait for Zen.

Is the 6700k a meme now?

everythings sort of based on price also wha?

x2 4GB = 8GB, l2read. Mobo has four RAM slots. No way he's going to need more than 16GB of RAM.

Really bad build, try this.
pcpartpicker.com/list/4L6mCy
If you really want that AMD build, buy a used mobo+8350 combo off fleabay.

2GB 950 is shit. Either wait a month for the 1050/Ti (the Ti version will be a nice cheap card) or get the RX 460. If you're at 720p you can get away with the 2GB version, not sure how long 2GB will last at 1080p. Probably not too long after the release of the PS4Pro.

Yup, but your mobo might support DDR3. Don't you have an old stick of RAM laying around? Or just pull one out of an old comp.

6300 is shit m8. Check gaming benchmarks. Consider the build I suggested.

Wait, what's wrong with 6700k?

>find an old dell gaming system at work yesterday complete with dual GTX 8800s, a intel core duo extreme, and one of those h2c ceramic coolers
>also find a creative labs SB0460 sound card
Do you think this would be better than the onboard soundon an asus z170 mobo? I mean, if it still works, that system must have been sitting in our warehouse for years

Anything I can do to improve?

>x2 4GB = 8GB, l2read. Mobo has four RAM slots.
Let me clarify it for you: 4GB sticks are a waste of money.
>No way he's going to need more than 16GB of RAM.
Yes, there is if he decides to keep this PC for long.

Also one of the main reasons to get the Intel LGA1151 socket is that you can upgrade the CPU when you need to without changing the mobo or RAM.

If you buy the AM3+ platform, you'll have to upgrade the mobo+CPU+RAM, consider new builds need DDR4 not DDR3.

Plus even the i3 6100 is better than the FX 6300 for gaming. It's a win-win situation, really.

Like I said, you can always grab a used 970 mobo + FX 8350. That's a good deal, but don't buy it new
ebay.com/sch/Motherboard-CPU-Combos/131511/i.html?_from=R40&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo&_udhi=175&_nkw=8350&_dcat=131511&rt=nc

Negligible improvement for most users on here.

Dual-channel RAM has a negligible performance increase.

Don't bother. Too bad you didn't find it a few years earlier when the parts weren't completely obsolete.

>Yes, there is
No, there's not. Not unless he has some professional application or works with 3 VMs at once, which it's obvious he's not.

I'll tell you how obsolete that system was, it still has an ageia physx card from before the company was acquired by nvidia. I have also found a celeron processor from 98 with the pins on the processor, an 06 celeron and pentium, and an i7 920 just lying in one of those plastic pencil cases.

pcpartpicker.com/list/LdVQd6
Managed to squeeze a few bucks.

That 920 is still decent but inefficient.

GET A MICROATX BOARD YOU DUMB NIGGER

>MICROATX
No and fuck off you retarded kike.

How are Windows 10 keys so cheap on eBay?
They go for like 10 bucks and usually have hundreds sold. Will I get jewed?

>Dual-channel RAM has a negligible performance increase.
In current games, yes, but the dual-channel mode doubles the bandwidth between the CPU and the memory. Why wouldn't you want that?

Pic not exactly related, but plenty of people discount the effect RAM has on performance. Why not put it in the best config?

I'd think so.
I'm looking at Kinguin with 25 buck Windows 7 OEM keys.
Seems like a better catch for me.

Also, who here getting RX-470 that's actually about 5 bucks within MSRP?

pcpartpicker.com/list/tJRh7h
Building a pc for a friend specifically for playing Wow: Legion.
Budget is $800-900

Two sticks of low-speed RAM won't help.

>doesn't want to save $50+ for other parts
>won't actually use all the expansion ports
Why are you so retarded?

Ditch the 750 ti and DVD drive. Get faster RAM and a cheaper case if you don't care about the aesthetics so much.

Oh, can you still use Win 7 keys to activate 10?

Also, end your fucking life

remember to sage and report

Looks good.

Just make sure it's a factory OC version

Looks good except for graphic card. 2GB 460 will be better than the 950 if he wants to play any new games
i.imgur.com/WFoUKxV.png

>Two sticks of low-speed RAM won't help
m8, 1x8GB costs the same as 2x4GB. So literally why wouldn't you want an optimum config?

AMD isn't an option. He said he doesn't care if he has spend a bit more but he wants an Nvidia card. Any alternative Nvidia suggestions to the 750ti?

pcpartpicker.com/list/R96Zcc

>won't actually use all the expansion ports
Because you know this, right? This mobo also gives the possibility to OC.
Now fuck off and be autistic somewhere else, i suggest or /l/eddit.

>sour faggot who wants to be spoonfed
TOPKEK

>doesn't care if he has spend a bit more but he wants an Nvidia card
Fucking normies...

Nvidia doesn't have any new low end cards right now. 3GB 1060 is a great card but it's $200. (It's on the chart I posted.) Really 50 bucks more is nothing for that performance, so long as he's not going to play WoW 100% exclusively.

1050/1050Ti are coming out in October probably, so if he can wait a month he can get something much better than 750Ti/950. The 1050Ti will probably be better than the 960.

>so long as he's not going to play WoW 100% exclusively.
Can you further elaborate on that? I'm curious to know why.

No need for a 1060 if he can get constant 60FPS on Ultra easily with a cheaper card.

If he were to play something else, like let's say a new Total War or something, he'd definitely benefit from the 1060.

Right on. He actually has explicitly told me he wants it for League of Legends and Wow only. Switch back to the 750 ti?

>he wants it for League of Legends and Wow only
Honestly? You could run something like i3-6100 + 950 for his PC Master Race ™ gaming rig..

Yeah 750Ti or 950 will be fine.

The i3 6100 would probably be fine, but when a whole bunch of players are on screen an i5 is better.

No kidding. However I still take it with a grain of salt. Particularly since he wanted to drop $800-900 on it, I want to give him something that will last even in the event his interests ever diverge.

But that low-speed ram isn't optimal. Look at the chart again.

Fine, you insufferable faggot. Have a cheaper motherboard that also supports non-k overclocking with the correct BIOS version.
pcpartpicker.com/product/qkX2FT/msi-motherboard-z170apro
overclocking.guide/updated-msi-z170-non-k-overclocking-guide-new-bios/

The 950 is slightly better and usually cheaper.

WoW is not as easy to play as it once was (staying with MoP). On 1440p and on a 290 or a 970, I cannot get above ~30 FPS if I put it on max in Legion areas. And that is solo, not raid.

I would suggest you swap to an i3 and get a 1060 at least, if you want to play WoW near max settings.

If you want to be absolutely safe go with i5-6500 + 1060 6G and let him spend his 900$, otherwise i3-6100 + 750ti/950/960 is fine.

Yay or nay? I'm from Germany
de.pcpartpicker.com/list/f7tYd6

What's your budget you filthy Negermensch?

>actually buying a soundcard
What is wrong with you

Don't really have a budget, willing to spend some more bucks on it if I end up with higher quality parts. Forgot to mention I already own a 240GB SSD and a 1TB HDD

Moar RAM, preferably faster RAM too.

>290 Euromonies for a 480
Seems pricey.

>he doesn't understand what form factor actually means

>implying implications
Nice straw man you retarded fuck.

>But that low-speed ram isn't optimal. Look at the chart again.
The fact that you're telling me to read the very fucking chart I posted proves you're a moron

Obviously >2133 is better than 2133, but unless your mobo is a Z170 you can't run it at that MHz.

We're talking about single vs dual channel. I only posted that chart to show that RAM has an impact on performance in general. (L2Read, clearly stated in post.)

AGAIN, why wouldn't you want something that has an impact (RAM) in the best config (dual channel)?
ANSWER: Because you're stupid

Well.. then it depends on what games you want to play at what resolution and if you can throw away money at stupid jewish memes.

What would you recommend? 2666 or 2800?

Well, in comparison the GTX 1060 OC'd is 330 Euros. amazon.de/Asus-GTX1060-O6G-Grafikkarte-Speicher-Displayport/dp/B01INGT6W0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1475266234&sr=8-9&keywords="gtx 1060"

It's a 5% improvement at most. Not a huge dealbreaker, especially if you're planning on adding a second stick. And some non-z boards let you overclock the RAM.

As fast as your board and budget support, see

amazon.de/ZOTAC-GeForce-GTX-1060-Experience/dp/B01KKJAJM4
The gimped 3GB version is 210 Euromonies, but of course it is ~10% slower.

Don't even know why you'd suggest that card m8. You a fanboi or something?

>some non-z boards let you overclock the RAM
Genuinely curious. I've looked at the H110 and H170, and even though they support faster than 2133MHz, it still runs at 2133 even with XMP.

Definitely interested in knowing a model that does

I am new in this stuff, can someone explain what is the difference between diferent motherboards? I mean other than cpu socket type, what type of ram it supports and number of some other sockets? what is worse in cheaper models

Better power management, higher quality components. Good motherboards last for a long time. Crappy ones crap out after 2-3 years.

Chipset / RAM slots / multiGPU / CPU overclock
H110 / 2 / No / No
B150 / 4 / No / No
H170 / 4 / Yes / No
Z170 / 4 / Yes / Yes

No, not 10.
Win 7 keys for win 7 because I like having a bit more control over my system.

>Just make sure it's a factory OC version
4GB reference card unfortunately.
But it's 185 bucks or so, and the only one on the market like it.

I realized I COULD get a new custom fan for it, but the cost amount would mean that I'd be better off getting a better version of it, so Im cheaping out instead.

Besides, this is an upgrade from a Pre-GTX 600 series card as well.

I'm currently using a 1440p 60hz monitor, but I'm looking to upgrade that in near future. Monitors, especially G-Sync, are extremly overpriced over here it seems. That's one reason I went with a RX480 (FreeSync).

Going to look into that, thank you.

For some reason I doubt it'll perform just as well as a 480 8GB would. Is VRAM not important at all?

But it doesn't.
3000mhz H110 master race

de.pcpartpicker.com/list/J3PWcc
how bad did i fuck fuck up?
the only thing that i actually want to play is titty ninjas in with good graphics

>titty ninjas
Link pls

>prefers a 5% improvement at best than the freedom to easily upgrade to more RAM
You need to leave.

In that case RX480 it is. Make sure you use idealo.de and geizhals.at to compare prices before you buy. pcpartpicker doesn't always get the right prices, especially if something's on sale on sites like mindfactory.
Some options for improvement: 1. 3000 RAM 2. Better case, yours is good, but if you're not on a tight budget do yourself a favour and get something else 3. Modular 80+gold PSU from EVGA or SeaSonic 4. Better cooler, Cryorig offers some good options or get the NH-U14S
t. fellow german

store.steampowered.com/app/411830/
here ya go senpai

Well some games already require 12. I know I typically keep my machines about 7 years so... It's not unfeasible.

You want a factory OC'd card because the chips have been binned. You can easily OC a binned chip between 1320 and 1380MHz, which is a huge boost over reference. Huge. Reference card is a gamble.

>For some reason I doubt it'll perform just as well as a 480 8GB would
You are correct, don't fucking buy the cut down 1060 (10% fewer cores than 6GB 1060) for more money than an RX 480 8GB. See the benchmark I posted here , even the 470 can beat the full 1060 in Forza. 480 will beat the full 1060 in almost all new games.

Post proof. Like I said, the lower chipsets allow it, but supposedly it still runs at 2133. Which model do you have?

Looks good, but ask yourself if you need a Z170 Even if you start with 2x 4GB (and your mobo has four RAM slots, aka most mobos) you have a max of 24GB, retard. Both pairs in dual channel config too

Prove it. Haven't seen a single game that won't run on 8GB.

VRAM is starting to be more important. I wouldn't go with less than 4gb.

yeah, try not to recommend asinine combinations like i3+Z170 or 650 W PSUs on configs that draw 250 W peak

The proof is 2 years old dude, I don't know why you think non-z170 motherboards can't OC ram when they can and do and have for a long time. Maybe you're having compatibility issues, many mobos can only XMP with certain brands and/or models of certain configurations. Look online for a ddr compatibility list, that's what made my other z170 board not take full speed g skill ram, and when I looked up the compatibility list, g skill wasn't there for 3000mhz 2x8Gb compatible
Also Forza 6 uses 8.4gb ram

>no 650w PSUs
I use a 1060 and a locked i5, I found a 80+ gold full modular 620w PSU for $60, show me something better and I'll consider it

>Also Forza 6 uses 8.4gb ram
Depends on the amount of RAM installed on the system. If you've got 8GB the game still runs. Haven't seen a framerate comparison between 8 and 16GB

Thanks for your input. I'll go with 3400 RAM as that's the highest the motherboard I chose supports (Asus Z170-A).

What's wrong with that case? Asking so I can improve on that as well.

For PSU I just chose the EVGA SuperNova G5, based on your recommendations. Will 550W be enough if I'll overclock both CPU and GPU?

Will get the NH-U14S, appears to be the best I can get.

pcpartpicker.com/list/cVtYd6

Budget is $1600 CAD

Anything that needs changing?

I have everything else not listed there.
Down the road I'm doing to buy a liquid cooler.

Any recommendations for a vertical-mounting mini-ITX case? I want to build a transport-friendly system and I've set my mind on ITX, but the problem is that they're almost unanimously horizontal mounted and they are all cube cases. I want a vertical mount so I can show shit off and I want enough room for a full size card.

Every damn case is also hunormous. I don't want a hunormous case.

...which goes to show how US-centrical the entire thing is

Why do these tests never include the 390 and 390x?

Silverstone.

Looks fine, but you probably don't need the i7.

>The proof is 2 years old dude, I don't know why you think non-z170 motherboards can't OC ram when they can and do and have for a long time.
Most of the time it seems that they support XMP but the RAM still runs at 2133
us.msi.com/Motherboard/support/H110M-PRO-VH.html#support-mem

Going to be doing a GPU Passthough set up, figured I'd go for something powerful.

My first choice was the I5-6600k

gameGPU doesn't have them, check elsewhere. But you can guess that the 390 will be at 290x levels and the 390x will be a little above that.

>FPS
>no information on subsecond frame rendering

How is my build?
pcpartpicker.com/list/GsFYd6

It's basically short hand for performance m8, would frametimes quell your autism?

Cough up the extra $20 for a 240GB SSD
The 750Ti sucks (if you want to play anything new). Wait until the middle of Oct for the GTX 1050.

Yes :^)

I can support this, GTX 750ti blows for any new games. My current GTX 570 OC outperforms it.

I'm going to be using the 750ti for my Linux Host and a 1070 for the WinVM GPU pass

>You want a factory OC'd card because the chips have been binned. You can easily OC a binned chip between 1320 and 1380MHz, which is a huge boost over reference. Huge. Reference card is a gamble.

Well shit then. That's EXACTLY what it is.
All the OC'd 470s ain't worth shit, it's better to get a 4GB 480 OC'd at the prices they run at.

Fuck.

you probably won't see one. The only ram game framerate tests are those that are made to show the difference is insignificant

Well of course. I have a computer with 3GB and everything still tries to run
It doesn't, but it tries

If the aftermarket 4GB 480 is $230, at $200 the price for an aftermarket 4GB 470 is about right. But given the relatively small performance difference, both cards will become unusable at the same time. So who cares, $30 won't send you to the poorhouse but if you want to spend it elsewhere why not?

Well H110 3000mhz works on my machine while Z170 3000mhz doesn't.
When I finally did get my Z170 working with it (had to get the 7th gigabyte bios update) I didn't notice any difference whatsoever

You're clueless m8

>literally "works on my machine"

That update was for "better ddr compatibility" by the way, so I figure full speed XMP compatibility is a more common issue than I thought

Not building but someone redpill me on laptop buying

What to look for in a good/decent/moderately decent/good laptop

I know these already but I don't know hardware too well like the back of my head

Processor
Memory/RAM
HDD/SSD

other than that I don't have an eye for the processors/RAM/HDD/SSD and sound/visuals and such

redpill me pls Cred Forums

You're the one saying that only Z170 can OC ram.
Like you're actually saying that with conviction, thinking that you're right.
Go sue Intel for making faulty chipsets then because that's a very serious claim if you actually believe you're right. It's been verified that yes H110 and H170 can OC ram through XMP, just like they said when it came out. All ram? That's up to the motherboard manufacturer apparently

Does it not work on your machine? Have you tried enabling XMP on a non-Z170 board yet?

I already posted this link. The board has XMP support. "Support" means the RAM runs, just not at full MHz.

us.msi.com/Motherboard/support/H110M-PRO-VH.html#support-mem

If you know better post proof, don't expect me to take your word for it faggot

Go to the thinkpad general unless you're a macfag

Works on my machine

See >I already posted this link. The board has XMP support. "Support" means the RAM runs, just not at full MHz.
>us.msi.com/Motherboard/support/H110M-PRO-VH.html#support-mem
I'm trying to fucking tell you that it works after you enable XMP but it's not actually running at the RAM's full speed. If you know better post proof.

Is this link actually the reason why you're believing the opposite of true

If you actually believe that only z170 supports overclockable ram then that's your google journey you need to undertake yourself
Also have you ever read a manual

>chinkpad

Well no duh but I'm actually still hunting around insecurely unsure of which chinkpad to grab for the bang for my buck and specs and I do go into /tpg/ anyway

pcpartpicker.com/list/7hqMCy
This build is going to be used for gaming etc. I already have a 650w Bronze rated PSU. Thoughts/concerns/advice?

Eh, I see what you're saying.
THink I'll go with the 230 4GB instead then.

One of many links m8. Sometimes there's a only a little asterisk that points to the 2133 disclaimer.

Really, post some proof. I'd love to be able to buy an H110 that'll let me run 3000MHz RAM at full speed.

H110/H170 FUCKING SUPPORT THE RAM STICKS YOUR DUMB ASS PURCHASED BUT AT A LOWER CLOCKSPEED. How retarded are you?

I've been using thinkpads since I was 7, why are they so good? Last I remember they changed to Lenovo and started feeling super shitty

Apparently not retarded enough to fail to get my full ram speed out of a motherboard that is designed to do so
I don't know what your problem is but it sounds like a (you) problem that doesn't exist for anyone else

You mean like an NCase M1 or a Dancase A4?

Like my proof is sitting at home, at 3000mhz, without any problem once i got a compatible brand model

Basically you buy used mobile workstations. Laptop specs have been notoriously low compared to desktop (mostly for power consumption reasons), so workstations are the way to go. Personally I don't follow thinkpads, so I can't advise you.

>oh user look I'll just write something here to save my tiny anonymoose epeen
At least tell me your mobo's model, faggot

But thats wrong
I don't remember if h110 does but h170 sure as hell does
Like the other user said it could be specific model incompatibility

I'd love to argue with your baseless assertions later, but I'm out of beer. See you soon, sweetheart.

That's ok, it works on my machine so I'm not peeved

>soundcard

Hey guys.
Yesterday there was a very heated thread about the skylake i5s versus the i3-6100, and it got me wondering about how far their arguments worked for single-core versus multi-core performance.

With that in mind, I made these two builds with a target budget of $650.

pcpartpicker.com/list/ZgLgnn
pcpartpicker.com/list/WVnBqk

They are almost identical, but with a few key differences that I would appreciate your opinion on.

The main one being the choice in CPU between the i3-6100 and something that I seemed very interesting for the price: the G4400.
They both have two physical cores.
The i3 is clocked 0.4GHz higher and is multithreaded.
The G4400 is still clocked at a decent 3.3GHz though, and performs similarly in single-threaded applications.
The important difference (in my mind) between these two, is that the G4400 is literally less than half the price of the i3-6100 at the cheapest vendors ($50 vs $110).

I ask you, does the i3's performance warrant this difference in price?

The other change I made was a somewhat minor one to attempt to balance the costs of the two builds; I exchanged the small SSD and bulk HDD for a modest sized SSD and saved approximately $20 to compensate for the difference in CPU cost.

This raises another minor question as to whether 240-256GB SSDs are still worthwhile for the price when you can get double that storage space for under $150 with a 480-575GB. This increase in storage also comes with minor improvements in speed and reliability due to the nature of SSDs.
What are your thoughts on this and the prices of SSDs in general?
Is it practical to consider a m.2 ssd for a build when you also have to buy a more expensive motherboard to support it? I do not think so, at least not at sub $1000 budgets.

In hindsight, if I wanted to truly reduce the cost of the i3 build, I might consider removing the SSD and leaving the HDD, but that sacrifices a lot of read/write speed for what amounts to $50 and 2.5TB of storage.

There's nothing wrong with the case. It's just if you're not on a tight budget there are so much better options like Fractal Design R5, Enthoo Pro M / Evolv, some Corsairs, etc.
All those cases have a better layout, cable management, dust filters, etc. and usually cost between 70-120€.

M2 is an expensive meme but SSDs in general are by far the biggest jump in drive speed for the money

Is the 1070 a better choice over the 1080 for "bang for buck"

??

Yes.
But the 1080ti is likely to be even better bang for slightly more than 1080 kinda bucks

>CD/DVD writer
>802.11n card
Do you think we're still in 2011?
You could get a better mobo that has 802.11ac on it for the same as your current choice + adapter.

Would a 1070 be bottlenecked by a i7 2600k @4.4ghz ? Ive been told yes and no

Im inclined to think no.

>onboard wifi
Just get a minipcie wifi card like what the "onboard wifi" is
Except minipcie wifi adapters are garbage
Oh wait not when it comes included with the gaymer package

>Is it practical to consider a m.2 ssd for a build when you also have to buy a more expensive motherboard to support it? I do not think so, at least not at sub $1000 budgets.
A good SATA SSD is fine for all builds. Don't get an m.2 SSD at your budget level. That'd be insane.

Does anyone know about peltier cooling for a processor?
I do not care about power draw, I just think creating a 37° difference could be beneficial when cooling the hot side to room temperature by some means.

Old school, used to be popular among extreme overclockers back in the day, but generally seen as really not necessary these days. Bonus points for just having nifty tech.

How do I decide between the ncase m1 and the dan4. Both are around the same price and look great.

No it won't, unless you start hitting CPU limit on certain CPU-intensive games which is definitely a possibility, but if/when it happens it'll only happen rarely. Overclocked 2500k's still keep up today, I'm sure the i7 version isn't much different
As far as hardware to hardware interface and actual data lanes, you're fine, your CPU can fully operate a 1070

In progress (no pics yet):
>$30 Power Mac G5 case
>$100 for 20" and 23" cinema displays
>$60 mATX Mobo
>$120 FX 8350
>$25 gay max CPU cooler
>$60 16GB RAM
>$120 500GB SSD
>Salvaged 500gb HDD
>Salvaged 500w PSU

I've yet to order a GPU, the 480 8gb seems to be my best choice, but I can't find them at MSRP anywhere.

Currently adapting the IO of the case to the motherboard.

Thanks.

I just need to sell my gtx 680s sli and ill be able to upgrade.

Compatibility with the components you want to use.

If you can fit all the components you want in a Dan, I suggest that as it is easier to carry around.

Although there is also a 3rd party carrying case for the M1.

Also if you are at all concerned with ease of the build, I suggest Ncase M1. A good ITX build is a bitch to cable, the M1 is no exception. The Dancase A4 is even worse.

I wouldn't consider m.2 unless I was already getting a z170 motherboard, and I don't think an oc build will be under 1000, so that was a bit of a dumb question on my part.

Thanks for the feedback, but I was mainly hoping to hear some opinions on the CPUs.
When you get a h110 motherboard with "onboard" wifi, you usually get a pci card plugged in for you.
The cost of such seems to run around $90+ dollars, and considering my network doesn't use AC, it would be more practical to stick with a cheap pcie×1 card and a barebones motherboard.
That said, it is pretty much the same cost between matx motherboard+good wifi card and a mitx motherboard that comes with a card plugged in for you.
Mitx is not in my budget, as it is generally hotter, often requires different formfactor psu and gpu.
Matx is generally a safer approach since you basically know most things will fit.
I use a disc drive and it is dumb to buy some usb external one and have to keep plugging it in when I can just leave it in my case with a regular drive.

What's the best PC I can get for video editing in After Effects and Premiere and some gaming for 1500 USD?

Often but not always
When I considered ITX and looked around, like 95% of cases supported full ATX PSUs and like 80% supported fairly big/normal size video cards

>and some gaming
Once you put in gaming, you want a gaming PC. The rest doesn't matter.

A gaming PC will do whatever other kind of activity you want to do really well.

The sole exception may be music production.

You can put an ITX mobo in an mATX/ATX case if the ITX mobo just happens to suit your purposes better (i.e. it's cheaper and has all the options). Somehow I doubt you're going to be missing that extra x16 slot.

>The main one being the choice in CPU between the i3-6100 and something that I seemed very interesting for the price: the G4400.
Some games won't run at all on 2 cores / 2 threads. You need 2 cores / 4 threads like the i3. If you're not gaming, the G4400 is fine.

>This raises another minor question as to whether 240-256GB SSDs are still worthwhile for the price
Yes they are. 250GB is enough for your OS and five or so AAA games. The price difference per GB between 250 and 500GB isn't linear, so there's no reason to get one yet if you're poor.

You want the 240GB SSD and 2TB HGST HDD, combined total $110.

No unless you're at 1080p 144Hz, and even then the bottleneck would be small. But if you're at 1080p 60Hz there's no reason for a 1070. 1440p 60Hz you'll be fine.

Just follow this nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/amd/rx480/
MSRP for factory OC'd 4GB models is $230, only reference is 200.

Wow
Gaymen is pretty computer intensive, but with a low-average CPU, it's still almost all on the GPU power.
What he's suggesting is heavy CPU work, much more than any game, as well as solid GPU processing needs
And audio work takes almost no computer power other than MAYBE CPU for extreme layers of effects and that extra 30s taken off your track exporting time. Like you'll see a bigger advantage in audio work with a good SSD upgrade than with better ram or GPU or even CPU if yours is already ok. My first 3 years of audio work were all on a laptop, I used meme-tier-powerful VSTs and TONS of sampling and resampling with dual DAWs the whole time and the only time I ever felt slow was during exporting or when there was enough reverb to crash the system

Fair enough. It seems I haven't done enough research into itx lately to make any claims.
Maybe prices have changed.

What do you guys think about the g4400 versus the i3-6100 though?
I really should've just left my original post at that question.
Do the 2 virtual threads make a significant difference in everyday stuff or even in games?
Does this performance amount to double that of the g4400 like the i3-6100's price?

MATX is good, I think it's better overall (not just another x16 slot but ANY other slot), in just saying not all ITX builds are the slim dvd-player looking things with no GPU

Can an i5 6500 with an 8GB RX 480 and 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 ram play games at 1440p 60Hz?

Maybe
If yes, then you're pushing it with that 480

Ok pbg, I need to upgrade (read as rebuild my old slug if an XP machine. It has a Pentium 4 Northwood (family 15 model 2), that i would like to keep. As well, I'd like to keep the case. I'm also keeping the GeForce 420MX,and SoundBlaster Live card I have.

As such, I'm needing a compatible mobo (preferably with built in usb2, and 2GB of ram.

Suggestions?

Depends on the games, but the 480 is weak for 1440p.

>Pentium 4
Kekium 4 in 2016... lel
Anyways, P4 is socket 478, go on Amazon, Newegg, whatever and search for a socket 478 mobo.

Warning: The following post contains faggotry.

I love the look of the Caselabs SMA8 and the Corsair 900D, specifically the lower chamber with the fans showing through.

But I don't want to spend half a grand on a case that is super overkill for me.

Are there any cases that aren't $400+ that have this feature/look?

Pic to show what I mean.

Why are there so few mATX mobos with onboard wifi?

Because mATX motherboards have this cool port on the motherboard called a PCI-e x1 slot.
It allows you to put whatever "onboard wifi" you want into your motherboard.

Seriously, what are you going to use the other ports on a mATX motherboard if not for a wireless card and a graphics card?

mITX motherboards come with wireless cards more often because they do not have an extra slot to dedicate to one, so they add it up by the other I/O instead.

Yea, I know. I want least issues with XP, so the older hardware is where it is at. Thanks for the socket info. That is the one thing I couldn't find.

What the fuck would you need XP for? Finding out the socket took me 30 sec to Google.......

What are some of the best hard drives around the 40-50 dollar range?

Ive heard good things about Toshiba and Hitachi?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UM3102206

Are 980 Tis good for VR? I have one but don't know if I should switch to a 1070/1080 Ti for a Vive.

>a western digital company

so why not just get a WD?

So I rebuilt my PC in a Fractal R5 case but it really doesn't sound very quiet while gaming. I've already ripped out the hdd cages and added a 2nd fan in the front.

Do I just have unrealistic expectations?

Specs are Corsair RM750x, 3570k with Hyper 212 Evo, EVGA 980ti SC.

>Oh, can you still use Win 7 keys to activate 10?
If you do some trickery you can, for now. Something about accessibility features for Win10, there's a page that lets you upgrade if you say you need it, it's just a checkbox on a page, not emailing someone and saying that you do.

What is your fan setup like? If it's inefficient it may be making your fans work harder than they should.

2 140mm in the front as intake and one in the back as exhaust.

They are all the standard GP-14 that comes with the case. The case fans are whisper quiet but they barely move any air.

Then what's causing all that noise then, if not the fans or harddrives?

The 980ti I'm pretty sure

Not him, but I have a 980 Ti (reference, sorry) and it can get kind of loud sometimes. I might get a EVGA 1070 FTW.

Set up a fan curve for the gpu in afterburner. The R5 isn't a magical case that's going to eat up every sound your components make. Consider closed headphones if it's still not adequate.

Does anyone know the best quality desktop stand microphone I can get for $10 or less?

>$10 or less
Jesus dude, anything at that pricepoint is gonna be shit. Just save up for like, a week and you'll get a big jump in quality.

Well alright. Any recommendations you might have?

>was figuring out a way to DIY attach a fan into a case
>considered using glue
>a day later, realize I can just use plastic cables to tie it into place
Good thing I havent gotten the glue i needed, just hate how slow my brain is.

...

the case I mentioned is an cheap-ass case that does not have slot for fan. I mentioned DIY for a reason

pcpartpicker.com/list/MT82xY

Compact build is a must, anything else I'm open but I live in the third world so I'm limited in choices.

What are the odds or fitting a cooler too?

Is this a good build? Just for general use, games and WoW. My budget is 750 usd.
Open to any suggestions boiz

...

CPU looks good.

B150 is a better chipset than H110 for about the same price. Get one of those instead.

RAM is good.

120GB SSD is half assing it but it's ultimately your call.

RX 470 for $200 is a waste of money. The 3GB 1060 is the same price and it's a much faster card. You aren't going to miss the extra gig of RAM at 1080p, and the faster GPU is more important anyway.

Case is good.

PSU is good.

DVD-RW is a waste of money. You aren't gonna use it. Put that money towards a bigger SSD ($20 is about the difference between 120 and 240).

I pulled the trigger, plan to use it for gaming, rendering, animating, and for some light Unity 5.

Should I return it? Is it any good?

pcpartpicker.com/list/whNwYr

Can't see the price/link. Looks decent, but It looks good.

Case comes with good airflow

get a fan with blue LEDs too, looks a bit unbalanced with the red GPU otherwise

If you're going to spend that much money on an i7, you may as well buy a 1070 or fury x

>You aren't going to miss the extra gig of RAM at 1080p
Not him, but if I plan to do all my gaming at 1080p 60fps, how much will I regret not spending the extra $50 to get the 6gb?

>tfw same fan with blue LEDs is 2-3 dollars cheaper

Can't, on a budget of 1000 dollars.

this i7 should last me a while anyways, I plan to upgrade the GPU later down the road.

Look good now?

Personally, (which means dont let this influence you, do your research and a lot of reflection otherwise) I would ditch the SSD for a better video card. (Like a gtx 1060 6gb or a Rx 480 8gb)

Get a pcie wifi card instead.

Spend $3 more on your hard drive and get the 2tb 7200 rpm Hitachi instead.

This could save you a few dollars. Seasonic has good build quality from what I have read, as well as the 30 extra watts, letting you get maximum performance (R)

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171098&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker, LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

It depends.

The extra 3GB won't make the card faster. It won't improve your framerates. What it will do is allow you to enable settings that increase the visual fidelity of what you're playing. However, at 1080p there is a glass ceiling to how much of an impact these features will have. Cards with high VRAM are meant for higher resolution gaming, which demands higher resolution textures.

As far as framerates go, one of the biggest VRAM hogs is MSAA that can kill your framerate. So even if you have the VRAM to crank up the MSAA that doesn't mean the card can actually perform at that level.

It's important to keep in mind that the 1060 is not a high end card anyway. GTA V is one of the few major games that can use more than 3GB at 1080p, it uses just over 4GB with every setting maxed out. But with every setting maxed it out the 1060 can't run it at 60fps anyway.

If you can afford the 6GB then get the 6GB, because it will surely help down the road. But if you can't afford it don't sweat it, because the card isn't really powerful enough to take advantage of the full 6GB anyway.

>The extra 3GB won't make the card faster. It won't improve your framerates. What it will do is allow you to enable settings that increase the visual fidelity of what you're playing.

But wait... I thought the 6GB card is objectively faster, both on paper and real world, and not because of the extra Vram?

youtube.com/watch?v=zpb6qaH_saQ

youtube.com/watch?v=fYNigmB6sWY

youtube.com/watch?v=awDM--7AhyE

Oh that's right I forgot about that lol. Brainfart.

pcpartpicker.com/list/YRBRVY
How does it look? I'm going to be gaming mostly at 1080p and am going to probably be using this computer for a few years before upgrading. My budget was 1100, if you guys have any recommendations on better parts or something i would like to know.

Regardless, there's a difference but I'm not not sure the difference is worth $50 if you're strapped for cash.

One of my buddies is on a tight budget so when I built his rig I went with the 3GB. The extra price for the 6GB wasn't worth it.

On the flipside, my other buddy has a more flexible budget so we're going for the 6GB.

Just a matter of priority. All that really matters is if the difference costs you 60fps. You might have to tweak a little more to maintain 60fps in the most demanding titles, but at 1080p that is going to be rare (for now).

The mobo already has onboard audio. In current year sound cards are just a meme

The only thing I'd change is the cooler. A 120mm AIO is more expensive than a good air cooler without really doing a better job of cooling it. The case can support a 240mm radiator so if you really want liquid cooling I would suggest spending an extra $20 on an X61 instead of an X41. Why fuck around?

Other than that it looks great.

After your and other user's advice, I've come to this. And also saved myself a few bucks to use for a PC tool kit.
This is my first build ever and first gaming pc ever. So I'm very excited and nervous for this lmao

thanks senpai

do you already have a monitor, mouse, and keyboard?

Yes senpai.

What's with the wireless?

Can't use ethernet?

Nope, internet modem is all the way across the house. Can't do much about it.

I'm in the same situation. I run a 40' ethernet cord across the house.

Get an Rx 480 Gaming X 4gb for 209 (w/ promo code) to save some money.

jet.com/product/MSI-Radeon-RX-480-DirectX-12-RX-480-GAMING-X-4G-4GB-256-Bit-GDDR5-PCI-Express-30/3702c4c7816449348a6c308084ebcaf7

>tfw i run a 100ft ethernet cable across the house
>i only use 50
I have overestimated it slightly

Im thinking about getting a powerline range extender for my internet modem and just use that. I heard that they're pretty great from a friend of mine.

Where the fuck does anyone buy a laptop in holland guys?
Also this thing
Acer Aspire E 15 E5-575G-76YK
Intel Core i7-6500U Processor
15.6-inch Full HD Display
NVIDIA GeForce 940MX with 2GB DDR5 VRAM
8GB DDR4 Memory, 256GB SSD
for 699 bucks on amazon, y/n

Talk me out of it /pcbg/

I have a i5 4670k which doesnt have vt-d. Is it worth an upgrade to skylake or just a cpu upgrade?

I'd rather not alter the case to much, even though it's pretty much a piece of trash in everyone's eyes.
Beside, the cables are doing a good job keeping the fan in place so no reason to drill some more holes.

How much would this build cost in the US?

About $1300 without tax.

But that's not counting the hard drives I already own.

r8 my budget server build.

pcpartpicker.com/list/zH3Jnn

pcpartpicker.com/list/Kwnh7h

Main purpose: Machine learning

Getting the Maxwell Titan X second hand for 669$ outside of usa.
Where 1070 is 610$ and 1080 is 1040$.

It's a evga GeForce GTX Titan X 12GB Superclocked (12G-P4-2992-KR) 17 months used without overclocking good conditions.

Am I doing the right decision and is my build approved?

I'm in Australia and want a new computer to play Mafia 3/Battlefield 4/Battlefield one. I am a cheap piece of shit and want to spend almost nothing but still expect good performance because I'm also an unrealistic prick.

Are there good "noob starter builds"?

BLACK AND RED ISNT DEAD!

pcpartpicker.com/list/6GV8QV

Once You go white and black, she never goes back.

pcpartpicker.com/list/KfGFZ8

*once your bike goes black it never comes back
FTFY

I need to ask for some opinions about what I should do in my scenario. It's kinda long but I'd appreciate the help.

>Need a laptop
>Maybe a new PC (Have Mac and regret it)

Let me start by saying I am an engineering student and I think I will be using CAD more often in some years from now. I also do not live on campus but at home.

I need to buy a laptop mainly for school work and basic programs/word processing but also some light games (sims etc.).

Now, I do not use my computer that much and do not play vidya, however I'm not sure if that's because I got bored of it or because I don't have newer games and physically can't run games well on my mac.

Which brings me to my choices;

>Do I buy a very cheap laptop (ssd) for word etc that can also run a couple lighter games AND then wait to decide if I should build an pretty good/expensive PC alongside? Like £300 laptop?

Or

>Do I buy a slightly better laptop maybe like £600 and no new PC? (Obviously this would be cheaper overall)

The real issue I'm having is that apart from CAD, I don't know if I stopped using it for gaming/intensive use because I got bored of it or because I didn't have the ability to run games on good setting with my mac.

Will GPUs get close to their MSRP any time soon?

Thoughts on this? It's going to be my first gaming PC since around 2003.

Anything wrong? Anywhere I can trim some fat/price and still get the same-ish performance?

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/hHZmCy

Hey guys what's a good laptop to buy for gaming?

I require an actual Xp computer for my Nintendo RTV-001 Model NDEV-Wireless.

The drivers for it were built for XP SP2, and anything newer than XP has issues handling three drivers for one device, and VMs crap out as well.

>laptop
>gaming
>not picking one

Any swaps would be kind of subjective and only save a few quid at best, maybe switch the Asus if there's a cheaper Gigabyte/MSI mobo with the same stuff. I personally wouldn't have gone with that brand of SSD.

Get 3000 RAM and a better cooler. The 212 EVO won't handle an i7-6700K very well if you're going to OC it.
I also suggest to drop the i7-6700K to a i5-6600K if you'll only play games on it.

Gaming laptops are all over-priced garbage.

Yeah, once the new lineup comes out and the current one won't be able to achieve 60fps in the newest AAA titles.

>I also suggest to drop the i7-6700K to a i5-6600K if you'll only play games on it.
I also want to record some longplays and maybe do some streaming; will the i5 be alright with that? I'm only going for 1080p if that makes a difference.

Not him, but by the same token of dropping the i7 why bother with 3000 RAM unless it's the same price? 2400 and 2666 were the sweet spot last time I checked.

oh, is that how it works?

great

I don't suppose the 1080Ti would bump down the prices that much, would it?

Which cooler would you recommend?

Not him, but whichever beefy Noctua cooler works for you. I have a U14S on my X99 rig, it's tall (careful about GPU clearance) but good.

Just get the i7. If you were already considering it then it's obviously in your budget and it's better to have it than not.

Use OBS or shadowplay for that.

If you set up OBS streaming to use the GPU, it should be totally fine with the 6600k. (idk about cpu)

for rendering a video, the i7 would be better.

If you want to record/stream/edit the i7 is probably the better choice, stay with it.

3000RAM isn't really that much more expensive after all..

Noctua NH-U14S, some Cryrigs that i always confuse and many other heavy brick coolers if you don't mind them.

>(idk about cpu)

streaming using the cpu*

I'm seriously considering a 750 ti for my build and my brother's build.

The most demanding game I'll be playing most likely is A Hat in Time, the rest are games that my i5 6500 fine because they're 2D titles. While my brother plays games like GTA III and Roblox, I plan to use a i3 processor or a decent AMD chip.

Would we be fine?

I'm going to buy a new graphics card after my Toxic 270x died a month ago. Any recommendations?

RX 460 or 470 if you're looking for a new equivalent replacement, depending on your location (and therefore price/performance).

MSRP seldom applies to current gen cards.

My only complaint with my past graphics card was that it wasn't that great when using blender. So I was hoping to at least try Nvidia's 10th generation line, so far is there any noticeable difference or if it would be better to invest on it?

if you're set on nvidia, 1070 probably represents the best value in general.

Thanks for the help man. Now gotta figure out which brand I should buy for cheaps.

I said in general because yes you do pay a small premium for 1060 6GB -> 1070 but it's not like the jump between 1070 and 1080. Also more future-proof if you plan to skip a generation.

750ti seems overkill for the games you and your brothers play so try finding an i3 (for your brother) that has decent iGPU and see if it's up for the task. If you really need to buy a graphic card the consider rx460 or gtx950. It's not that gtx 750ti doesn't meet your requirements but the 2 cards above will give you more for the same price.

Which 1070 brand card should I buy? Does it matter?

Depends if you plan to overclock or not.

Otherwise, for the sake of a few FPS either way, just go with whatever fits your budget, has a nice design to you and has a decent warranty.

Generally avoid founder edition cards, go with an aftermarket cooled card for better temps.

Okay, the RX 460 seems pretty good, yea I realize I'm a very light gamer but I wanted to be able to play the occasional 3D title. I tried the game Life is Strange (seemed pretty shit desu) and I'm not sure if it was just poorly optimized or if the Intel HD 530 are just poor integrated graphics but I feel as if if I had a decent GPU I wouldn't have had the issues I had with the game.

Okay so here's an update on this thing.

I think I'm happy with it. Only things I'm wondering about are the power supply, the mobo and the graphics card (I definitely want a 1070, but not sure which brand to take. This one seems good as it allows for good OC and is also really cheap). I don't know jack shit about which mobo and power supply to go with though.

*I also opted to get rid of that SSD and go with a samsung 850 evo instead

Try updating or reinstalling your iGPU and if the issue you had still persists, buy the graphic card.

From my point of view, If I am allowed to work on my project at home and showcase finished products at school, pretty much I will go with cheap laptop and a good desktop. The thing is I don't use CAD so I have no idea if weak laptops are capable of handling it. Personally I was stuck with a hp probook for years until I build my own pc so I have a burning hatred for laptop, so much I don't think the magic of thinkpad can remedy that. Ofc that was biased so someone else may have a more valid opinion than I do.

For 1070's, get the EVGA SC, or the MSI Gaming X, they both come with factory overclocks and great coolers.

Ty m8

No, you can always manually overclocki it too. Cooling isn't as big of a deal now with these higher efficiency pascal cards

The $400 gigabyte one is the only option
The cheapest is always the only option

I have that card. It works, is quiet, stays fairly cool with stronger fan profile

huh....

HMMMM....

At least it doesn't weigh 389 pounds

I don't know what you're implying, the brand of heatsink has barely mattered in the past and it matters even less for these pascal cards

Dear /pcbg/.

1)Is XFX TS650 good PSU? Cost less for me than Corsair CS650M and sadly I cant find Seasonic S12-II 620W anywhere in my country.

2)In case of custom RX480 cards with 8gb, what would be better - Sapphire Nitro+ model or MSI "Gaming X" one?

Both cost pretty much the same for me, only that MSI have poor availability (or rather that every new shipment goes away almost instantly - however, one shop where I asked right away replied that they "dont touch MSI" - could anybody explain that?).

Thanks for replies, like always!

In general, sapphire does a better job on the heatsink/fan for AMD cards. MSI tends to reuse their nvidia designs, which could lead to inefficiencies in cooling. I'm sure the "we don't touch MSI" is a retail problem and not a product problem (maybe MSI has shitty return policies for stores or something). Although MSI has shit out some real turds in the market outside of video cards, you rarely hear serious problems from them anymore

pcpartpicker.com/list/VLDHWX

Hey /pcbg/, I'm about to pull the trigger soon, and I want to get some thoughts before I do.

I'm trying to make like a high-mid range gayman pc, that would be powerful enough, but not so much that it would be considered a 'high-end' machine, hence the h110m.

Don't plan on playing on 4k, or overclocking, but I'll also use it for various other things besides games (but not to the extend that I'd want an i7).

Don't have that much more room in my budget though, I'd say about $20ish

Also since it's not showing the name, the psu is a Capstone g550w.

MSI > Gigabyte > PowerColor > Sapphire > ASUS > HIS > XFX > Reference

Yep sure, that's why MSI making AMD card heatsinks leads to a third of the heatsink not even being used

Weird, I thought that Sapphire have better reputation in case of AMD cards than MSI.

You mean, they are that effective in their work?

>MSI so stronk not even need 2 of 5 heatpipes for puny amd card

That they reuse GTX-designed heatsinks and that can lead to things just not lining up as intended.
But that's for basically all the brands that sell both nvidia and AMD cards

So, overall, you would rather suggest Sapphire Nitro+ model?

I heard opinions about Nitro+ being "loud and hot", while MSI one being better in that aspect. Thats why I wanted to make sure by asking here first.

After all, Cred Forums is one of those places where I can saftely ask about AMD cards without triggering flood of "lol just save money for 1070!" posts.

Just save money for the 1070 or are you poor?

pcpartpicker.com/product/Wk2kcf/thermaltake-power-supply-sp650pcbus

pcpartpicker.com/product/MVrG3C/thermaltake-power-supply-pstpd0750mpcgus1

pcpartpicker.com/product/R7V48d/seasonic-power-supply-ssr650rm

Of these 3 power supplies, which is the best one?

is freesync/gsync a meme?

should I let them influence what card and monitor I buy?

No, but gsync adds extra money to monitors, freesync hardware is poorly done on cheap monitors, and both aren't useful if you're already maxing out your monitors Hz anyways
Basically it syncs your monitors Hz to your GPUs FPS, so that if those two numbers are too far apart, you won't be rendering "half-frames" and you shouldn't get any screen tearing.

I'm almost ready to wrap this up.

Any final thoughts on the Mobo, power supply or monitor? Is this looking alright? I'm super excited.

Yes.

Why the i7? Or do you just have $100 extra you want to blow?

I wanna record longplays and stream; i7 will give a decent advantage for those right?

*Well, I'll probably seldom stream, but there are definitely some longplays I'd like to make.

Depends on your program really. But if it can use hyperthreading then yes it'll make a big difference
If it's not using hyperthreading then you might as well get an 6600k since it's basically the same thing without hyperthreading

Here's my current fan setup. Got two questions:

1. Should I turn the top fan around? My current plan is to push in as much cold air as possible and let it push out through the back by itself. But my brains keep telling me that hot air rises and thus I'm pushing against that flow.

2. Are noctua fans really that much better? I currently got two BitFenix Spectre fans that came with the case, but I've been thinking about replacing them with NF-S12A fans. I'm just not sure if and how much it'd help, woudn't want to blow 40 yuropcoins into something that woudn't have any effect.

Yes turn you too fan around or put it in the back exhausting
You should always have at least one intake and one exhaust for a consistent flow of air, especially on those GPU that literally just blow hot air all over the place
Noctua fans are cool and all but they are just fans and you already have fans that move air

>put it in the back exhausting
These are the only fan slots in this case. The case is barely wide enough to fit 120mm fans in and because of mobo IO there's just no room for any exhaust fans.

So, aside from question about GPu models ( and ) - what about that PSU I listed?

Corsair CS560M would cost me 450 PLN, that XFX TS650 - 100 PLN less. Both have "80+gold" efficiency.

Then that is a smaller case than I thought. Still, turn the fan around and maybe consider turning your CPU fan sideways to blow hot air out the top too
This what I do, 2 intake in front (set to high speed), exhaust on top and back (set to low speed/quiet), PSU fan pointed down and side panel vent left alone

Friend wants a PC, but I suck at building. What do you think of this? Am I doing something wrong? Can I get a better value for $740 (cost minus the monitor)?

Nigger WHAT are you doing...
Budget ca. 600USD and only muh gaymin?

uhhh??

Okay okay i hear you, what do you think of THIS build?

I've narrowed down my PSU replacement choices to three.

Rosewell HIVE 650S. Bronze, semi-modular, manufactured by Sirtec. 90 Canabucks.

Seasonic M12II 620. Bronze, fully modular, manufactured by Seasonic (duh). 105 Canabucks.

Rosewill Photon 650. Gold, fully modular, manufactured by Sirtec. 110 Canabucks.

So basically want I want to know is if Sirtec is a good brand and if Gold is worth the extra money over Bronze. If the answers are yes and yes then I'll get the Photon. If they're yes and no then I'll get the HIVE. If Sirtec sucks I'll just get the Seasonic.

Dis nigga.. man i tell you dis nigga..

aww darn i done fucked up again

alright alright this has got to be it

Any way to make this cheaper actually without changing too much? Is there a better budget GPU?

At this point... just buy a prebuild.

1) Don't buy a DVD drive. Nobody uses them.

2) Don't buy a 950. Get an RX 470 instead. It's $20 more expensive.

3) Don't buy an i5. Get the i3 6300 instead. It's $50 cheaper.

4) Don't buy the 212 EVO. Not because it's bad, but because both the 6300 and the 6500 come with a heat sink.

5) Don't get an SSD if you're on a budget. You can buy one later when you have more cash.

That's $205 in savings, minus the $20 for the RX 470. Your subtotal is now $741.92

>spoon feeding some fool who didn't even bother with the basics
Get out.

Bruh,he could cut down on that case from an NXZT to a Fractal Design Core 1000.

Granted, it's small as hell and cable management is almost nonexistent, but it worked out pretty damn well for me.

And to top it off-

Use fucking pcpartpicker.com

Christ, newegg isn't the goto for EVERYTHING.

Did I do it?

>6600k.
>H110M.

Please tell me you're not planning on overclocking that.

Yeah yeah I know spoonfeeding is bad but I just wanted him to shut the fuck up about it so people might respond to my post instead: 6600k is wasted on an H110 board. If you want to overclock you need a Z170 board, if you don't want to overclock then get a 6500.

wew no wonder that mobo was so cheap for a z170

(because it isn't)

Then just bump your own post?
Personally i'd go with the SeaSonic because i have no experience with Roswill, but why don't you buy a G2 like every other good goy here?

>H110
>i5-6600K
>case probably made out of painted cardboard
Nvidia™ gaming rig / 10

>g2
>unable to read posts
Kill yourself

Too expensive, I'm on a pretty tight budget.

Then either go with the SeaSonic or try to find something about Roswill on pages like jonnyguru.

Fuck off, retard.

I actually found a Seasonic PSU on Newegg with a $15 USD rebate, so I'm just gonna get that.

So spoonfeeding that guy was for nothing. Sorry everyone.

Hey, it wasnt for nothing, it helped me out!

Anyone? Will 550W be enough for this or will I need to jump to 750W?

550 is enough. 750 is overkill if you aren't doing SLI or some serious overclocking.

Alright thanks. I was a little worried about the Capstone G since it wasn't in everyone's recommendation lists, but I don't think it'll be too dangerous

This'll be my first built PC, and I've already ordered at least the Graphics card. It's a bit nerve racking desu

>This'll be my first built PC
Make sure you don't forget placing the mobo stand-offs.

>forget placing the mobo stand-offs
people would do this?

You'd be suprised.

First time I did it though, I tightned the screws into the standoffs so much, that the standoffs AND the screw turn instead of the screw by itself.
So that sucks.

Yes. If you never build a PC before it's very likely. If my uncle hadn't told me when i build my first PC, i'd have forgotten them, too.
Manuals state the most obvious shit but leave out importan things like this... it's like the Juden wants you to fuck up your parts so you have to buy new ones.

guys, i've got a problem with my custom built pc. i've read the manuals and troubleshooted all the things i could find on google but nothing seems to work.

My pc was working fine on tuesday. I turned it off to go to bed, then I remembered I forgot something and went to turn it back on a few minutes later. I pressed the power button and the LEDs on all the fans turned on and the fans spun for about a split second then they turned off.

As of now, I put a book under the mobo to make sure it's not shorting with any of the standoffs and I re-seated all the connections to the mobo. I also tried the only RAM stick I have on both mobo slots and nothing. It still does that thing where it powers on for a split second and shuts off. It doesn't even beep. I think it might be the power supply (still haven't tried another PSU on it) or the CPU. I don't think it's the power button on the case.

Any suggestions? Mobo is Asus M5A78L-M Lx plus and psu is ultra 550lsp if it makes any difference.

>ultra 550lsp
is it +, bronze, gold, etc?

Looking around sites and either I'm reading wrong or it's not there.

Sounds like somethings broken. Try to switch the PSU. It shouldn't be the CPU since your system instantly powers off.
Even without the CPU, the fans would still run and not turn off. Also.. your PSU sounds like some cheap chinkshit.

It's this exact one
ascendtech.us/ultra-ult-lsp550-550-watt-power-supply_i_powersultlsp550.aspx#

Isn't that an 'avoid-tier' psu?

That thing looks like unreliable trash with no 80+ rating and capacitors from Somalia.
You NEVER want to skip on the PSU.

Yes, that thing is absolute garbage tier.

Yeah.
I don't see + verified
I don't see Bronze+, Gold+, either.

Replace PSU man, and get a 500w Bronze+ PSU.

I see. Damn; I didn't know about the +, bronze rating things. Maybe my problem is that I spent -60$ on a PSU.

I'm going to try another PSU on it tonight. If it turns out that the PSU needs to be replaced, what are some good PSUs or brands? Like how much should I be looking to spend?

I don't know how much power you build draws, but i assume 500W should be fine.
Here's an excellent budget option: pcpartpicker.com/product/zNK7YJ/evga-power-supply-100b10500kr

Not much, the 550 worked just fine all the time before it died the other day. Lasted for like 5 years. Other than the mobo I got one 8gb ram stick, a amd fx 6300 and a gtx 750ti. basically it was "PoorFag: The Build". Might upgrade the gfx too since I've got the money; maybe a 1070 or 480.

Anyway, could I just get a 700w one and call it a day?

The tricky thing about buying a PSU is that you can't really go by brand, because most brands don't actually manufacturer their PSUs. Instead there are a bunch of OEM manufacturers, ranging from high end to absolute garbage, and they manufacture the PSUs for various brand names.

For example, EVGA is a very popular brand but their Supernova G2 PSUs are made by a different manufacturer than their GS PSUs. These are both two good PSUs, but oftentimes a "good" brand will have crappy PSUs alongside the good ones. So you have to research and track hidden brands.

One of the safest brands to buy is Seasonic, because they're one of the few brands that manufactures their own PSUs and they are one of the most highly regarded manufacturers (the EVGA GS I mentioned is a Seasonic). So if you buy a Seasonic you know you're at least getting something decent.

This PSU is only semi-modular but it is rock solid: pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm

You could get a 700w PSU but it would be overkill. It would be better to buy a better PSU with less wattage than to buy a high wattage PSU for the same price.

Okay I need some input on this. Is it worth dropping from an i5-6500 to an i3-6300 to get a better mobo? Right now I have a b150 mobo (75 bucks MSI PRO VDH) in my cart.

700W is overkill, even for an upgrade. I suggest you get a 500-600W PSU for now and if you feel like it get a 1060 or 480.
If you want to save money i recommend a EVGA 500/600B 80+ bronze, otherwise get something like the SeaSonic said.

>700w is overkill

>get 1600W to run penta SLI 1080ti in a 5 year old build

>he doesn't want to have 99.9% efficiency

Hate the earth harder edgelord

Do static pressure fans really make much of a difference for radiators? And what exactly does static pressure mean? Don't you just want something with really high airflow?

...

How the fuck do I even choose a motherboard? There are infinite models for each chipset.

micro ATX is the only acceptable type

Form factor, features, aesthetics and quality.

Just buy a BioStar mobo.

I mean the product model. See pic, that's just ASRock.

>mATX

MICRO

ATX

>spend more on a high quality low wat psu
>spend less on a shit tier million wat psu

That makes perfect sense. I've already learned my lesson on how 'saving money' doesn't get me my money's worth. The SeaSonic looks good. I'll do some checking to make sure I pick something that is compatible with my build.
Tonight I will put in another PSU and if it works, then I'll replace the broken one. Gold rated PSU here I come.

Never heard of that brand. Is it another meme?

PS:
Thanks, Cred Forums

>high watt is bad!! and cheap!!

I hate faggots who don't know what they're talking about giving information. If you don't have 2x wattage on your PSU it'll be highly inefficient than if you barely achieve enough wattage, not to mention you'll probably break it all if you dare to overclock

It's the new meme, yes.

It's a notoriously cheap ass brand. Avoid it.

Asus, EVGA, Gigabyte and MSI are the big mobo brands. Get one of those.

>memesi
>memesus
>gigameme

...

Not an argument

You are too obvious, go back to your autism cesspit, kid.

Alright faggot list the reasons why asus/gigabyte/msi are good. I'll wait

No, you're the one who has to explain why the universal consensus is wrong.

Hmm so asrock is the best mobo then?

You're not doing much to prove your case lad

this is literially better and cheaper.

pcpartpicker.com/product/R7V48d/seasonic-power-supply-ssr650rm

Asus, Gigabyte and MSI make good and reliable mobosm, any sane person will tell you this.
See:
techpowerup.com/forums/threads/2014-motherboard-rma-rate-new-update-from-hardware-fr.207128/
pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Most-Reliable-PC-Hardware-of-2015-749/#Motherboard
And YOU wanted to make a point so the burden of proof lies on you, not me.
Now that you've been told, kindly fuck off back to your autism board you retarded fuck.

That's a fantastic deal.

Kraut on his first build here, yes, I've read the pastebin, wiki, went through Part Picker and Logical Increments and came out with something like this:

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K
Cooler: Mugen 4 PCGH
Graphics: Inno3D GeForce GTX 1080
Motherboard: MSI Z170A Tomahawk AC
RAM: GeIL DIMM 8GB DDR4-2400
SSD: Intenso TOP SSD 256 GB
PSU: EVGA 850 G2
Case: CM Cosmos SE
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSD1
Unsure whether to acquire a sound card.

The whole ordeal comes out as €1506.90, which is a tad over budget considering I'll need to buy a new monitor as well.
Requesting cheapification and other advice.

Which 1070 should I get? I got it down to those two because of pricing and availability:
zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1070-amp-edition
or
palit.com/palit/vgapro.php?id=2624&lang=en

The Zotac has a higher stock OC, the Palit has an impressive cooler and looks a lot better(for my black and white/silver build at least).

>cooler
get a CRYORIG H7

>video card
just buy a g1 gaming, its the second cheapest

>2015
Alright grandpa enjoy your bottlenecks and low quality z170s

Ok, first.. link the pcpartpicker list, Heinrich.
>Intenso
Get a Crucial MX/BX200 or ADATA SP550
>sound card
You don't need one.

>trying this hard
>no argument
You've been BTFO and now you are sour and desperate as fuck, how does it feel? Now go back to your containment board, idiot.

>Cooler: Mugen 4 PCGH
listen to the other user
>Motherboard: MSI Z170A Tomahawk AC
not sure about the prices in germany, if it's cheaper consider MSI Z170A SLI Plus
>RAM: GeIL DIMM 8GB DDR4-2400
get something better.
>PSU: EVGA 850 G2
>850
literally why
>Case: CM Cosmos SE
again, why? It's ugly and expensive.
>Optical Drive: LG GH24NSD1
do you really need an optical drive?
>Unsure whether to acquire a sound card.
don't.

Not really man you're the one who thinks 2014 is representative of the current chipset release generation

>tfw shopping for cpu/mobo/ram upgrades
>mfw i'll have to get rid of my month old wifi pci card because all mobos i'm interested in only have pci-e
>tfw modem is 20m away from me and i dont want to spend money on wiring just to shitpost

literally best budget build right here pcpartpicker.com/list/qyxqRG

Would you goys ever buy PC parts simply because they're made in the USA? Obviously speaking to americans (humans)

Swapping cooler.
Funnily enough the video card I have lists as €648.05, which is cheaper than your alternative.

Skipping sound card.
Also forgot I had a Samsung SSD 840 EVO lying around.
pcpartpicker.com/list/Hwrjnn

>not sure about the prices
It's cheaper. Swapping.

>get something better
By "something better", do you mean "more memory" or "more expensive"?

>literally why
Because that's the part I forgot to double-check.
Now begins the long search for compatible cases. Power supply is less of a problem, of course.

>really need an optical drive?
The need isn't exactly dire, but for the 15 or so merkeldollars that it'll cost me it's not much of an investment, either.

I will take it into consideration.

>By "something better", do you mean "more memory" or "more expensive"?
Both really, 8GB is what my first real PC had back in 2007, and that wasn't even top of the line, really.

Just grab a 16 GB 3000 CL15 kit.

>The need isn't exactly dire, but for the 15 or so merkeldollars that it'll cost me it's not much of an investment, either.
I was also dead set on an optical drive but then I tried remembering when was the last time I actually used it and drew a blank. Even if you disregard the price it opens up more case options.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/Hwrjnn
pcpartpicker.com/list/8Cb9Cy
Updated GPU and 3000 RAM, what about the case, do you have one?

It is representative for the manufacturer and i gave you a source for 2015 as well, you simply ignored it.
Oh and again.. burden of proof is on your side, bother showing me a source for your claim? No?

Well, I do have a sizable stack of CDs. Music mostly, and some ancient games. [spoiler]Remember The Incredible Machine? Anyone?[/spoiler]

RAM switched for two GeIL DIMM 8GB 3000 CL15.

Notable differences between the GPUs, other than that your selection costs me €50 more?

No, still searching for case.

we need a new thread. this one hasn't been bumping for 40 posts.

Better performance and temps. Stock cards are only good if you're going for a custom loop.
For the case i recommend the likes of Fractal Design R5 or Enthoo Pro M/Evolv.
Since you're from Germany i highly recommend you to look at Mindfactory, they usually have good special offers and midnight shopping will save you the shipping costs.

Yeah, I'm aware of Mindfactory (and Alternate, too.)

Can I leave the GeIL RAM or should I switch out?