/pcbg/ - PC Building General: Chinesefactoryworkersproblems Edition

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, please politely direct them here.

OLD THREAD:

Other urls found in this thread:

zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1070-amp-edition
palit.com/palit/vgapro.php?id=2624&lang=en
pcpartpicker.com/list/ccHFZ8
de.pcpartpicker.com/product/qYTrxr/evga-power-supply-220g20550y1
de.pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm
de.pcpartpicker.com/list/838gnn
amazon.de/BenQ-GL2450HT-Höhenverstellbarer-Höhenverstellung-Reaktionszeit/dp/B00BPL078S
thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002733
nzxt.com/products/s340-elite-black
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130897
pcpartpicker.com/list/hPvyWX
pcpartpicker.com/product/9XL7YJ/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bkw
pcpartpicker.com/list/YRMt3F
pcpartpicker.com/list/CX3pKZ
pcpartpicker.com/list/phxJnn
de.pcpartpicker.com/list/VPNh7h
pcpartpicker.com/list/nZp4pb
pcpartpicker.com/list/HhLRVY
pcpartpicker.com/list/yHMt3F
pcpartpicker.com/list/PBBnpb
pcpartpicker.com/list/JCcnpb
pcpartpicker.com/list/HjzTM8
pcpartpicker.com/list/vc8gnn
pcpartpicker.com/list/cds4pb
pcpartpicker.com/list/gKKt3F
pccasegear.com/products/36488/msi-970a-g43-plus-motherboard
pccasegear.com/products/21808/amd-fx-6300-6-core-black-edition-processor
pcpartpicker.com/list/CXtDjc
pcpartpicker.com/list/kQ8t3F
pcpartpicker.com/list/4NmMCy
pcpartpicker.com/list/hMZYd6
pcpartpicker.com/list/H7Wh7h
pcpartpicker.com/list/tNqFZ8
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820228142
backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-stats-q1-2016/
pcpartpicker.com/list/hBx3wV
pcpartpicker.com/list/skFNzM
gearbest.com/hdd-ssd/pp_313950.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/Hg9LPs
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/hd7Lcc
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/ybQJnn
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/tNqFZ8
pcpartpicker.com/list/3HCYd6
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1K648X4550
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817151118
pcpartpicker.com/list/wXs2xY
pcpartpicker.com/list/s3zDjc
pcpartpicker.com/product/qkX2FT/msi-motherboard-z170apro
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UM3102206
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132573
newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16811992005
amazon.ca/HP-Pavilion-23bw-LED-Monitor/dp/B00EC47RYW
pcpartpicker.com/list/GykNzM
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

dear anons,
I have an older 500W PSU that has a setup like in this pic:

92mm fan takes in cold air from the outside and pumps it into the case.

I have a 120mm on the back of the PC pushing the air out and I have a 120mm fan in the front of the case pushing the air in.

I also have a 212EVO with a 120mm fan pushing the air towards the back of the chassis.

I've been thinking about reversing the fan on my PSU so it pushes the air out instead of sucking it in... so that the hot air from the PSU is not ending up in my computer.

Has anyone done this? Dangerous? Will it fuckup my PSU? thanks for any advice.

Which 1070 should I get? I got it down to those two because of pricing and availability:
zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1070-amp-edition
or
palit.com/palit/vgapro.php?id=2624&lang=en

The Zotac has a higher stock OC, the Palit has an impressive cooler and looks a lot better(for my black and white/silver build at least).

I know it probably doesn't really matter but I'd really like a second opinion before dropping that much on a PC part.

Honestly? Both are fine.

Question: I have a reference 980 Ti (from Zotac if that matters) should I sell it and get a 1070/80/80 Ti? Or will I not notice a difference?

Fritz from previous thread here, finalised list. Please point out what a massive faggot I am, if applicable.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Vtngnn

Cost is at €1351.30, intent was to build cheap and lasting but not toaster-grade.

I am building a PC for 1080p gaming.

pcpartpicker.com/list/ccHFZ8

Any advice? Are the mobo/power supply ok, or should i get better quality ones?

I already have the Peripherals, its hard to especify the budget because i am a BR, but lets say i have a pretty flexible one.

Sorry for my shit english

980Ti to 1070 is pretty parallel. 1080 is a bump bump over the 980Ti and the Titan XP (and theoretical 1080Ti) are even bigger bumps but you're only gonna notice at at 1440p and the value of the really high end cards is only going to show at 4k. So it really depends on the resolution.

Buying a 1080 for a 1080p 60hz display is stupid. 1070 would be more than enough.

How much RAM do the Skylake iGPUs take away from you?

Okay, thanks. I might just get a FTW 1070 just for a better cooling system.

First, stop sucking dick Fritz.
Why do you want a GTX1080 if you're going to play on a 1080p@60Hz monitor? That's completely wasted.
Why are you so adamant on buying Gayl RAM?
Also, you could get a better/cheaper mobo, better cooler for OC and a better PSU in general, depending on what you want with it and how deep your pocket book is.

What brand of stupid is it? "Get a cheaper card" stupid, "get a better display" stupid, "you can't even wait for affordable VR because it's not gonna work with VR" stupid, or something else?

1070 isn't really an improvement, 1080 yeah.. but why? Either stay with 980Ti or get the 1080Ti in January.

>First, stop sucking dick Fritz.
Physically impossible.

>Why do you want a GTX1080
"Want" is a strong word. Might also consider a bigger monitor.

>Why are you so adamant on buying Gayl RAM?
Cheapest around.

I'm aiming for at the very most €1500.

If you're on a tight budget get a cheaper mobo and 2133 RAM and definitely a cheaper case.

Should i upgrade from 3570K to i5 6500?

If you want to wait for VR, buy a 1070 for now, sell it when second gen VR actually comes out and buy something that's going to be top of the line then. 1080 is just a bad price/performance card in general.
Mobo and cooler are fine. He could get better RAM but the differences are minuscule. Agreed on the PSU, went a bit too far the other way.

Having trouble looking up the manufacturer of EVGA 450w Bronze+ PSUs, does anyone have an idea of where else I can look?

>Physically impossible.
Ich bin enttäuscht.
>GTX1080
This card is only worth getting if you're going for a 1440p@144Hz monitor. You should make up your mind now, because if you don't get such a monitor in the future you basically threw 200€ away.
Also, with that budget make sure you get a semi/full mod 80+Gold PSU.

Sure they are fine, but for OC i'd get better mobo/hsf combo

I already bought the case, found it for a relatively cheap price nearby.

Im not in a tight budget, but at the same time i cant afford a higher end video card (1070 - 1080), will the 1060 do the job/ last some years?

Made up my mind. Going for cheaper, smaller monitor, but looking at the more expensive PSUs.

Nevermind, found it on NCIX.

Apparently the 450w is made by themselves.
Bummer.

Get a 1070 then. Great card, good value and will be enough for quiet some time.
Good PSU choices:
de.pcpartpicker.com/product/qYTrxr/evga-power-supply-220g20550y1
de.pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm

1070 would be ideal, i guess, but 1060 6G or RX480 8G should be fine. My 6 year old PC is running on a GTX460, i can't max out most games, but i can run them at 1080p.
So yeah.. should be fine.

What are your guys favorite cases? I've been wanting to build a new pc for months now but I can't decide on a case that I like. At this point I don't even know how many hours I've spent browsing cases on pcpartpicker.

NZXT H440, NZHT S340/Elite, and the Fractal Design R5 are some of my favorite mid tower cases. I have my eye on the Be Quiet! Dark Base 900 though, it looks really good for a full tower.

de.pcpartpicker.com/list/838gnn
That's the final, then.

I don't really like the s340 due to the fact that it's only got one fan mount on the top.

I really like the h440 but I've heard that it's thermals are shit.

I'm kinda iffy on the r5. I mean I like and respect the minimalist style but at the same time it looks too plain for me personally.

Reasons why this is bad
1. The PSU is the most volatile competent in a PC. If it goes bad, it can take every other component with it, especially so if it's a cheap one. Luckily, decent PSUs don't generate much heat, so the air it pushes inside should be only slightly above room temperature.
2. It means opening up the PSU. If you're asking stupid questions on /pcbg/, you're probably gonna kill yourself. Seriously. People have died fucking with those things.
3. There are better options for this problem, such as getting a fanless or "silent" PSU.

Looks good, maybe add some thermal compound and get a cheaper DVD drive, otherwise it's fine.
>BenQ GL2450HM
If you don't mind spending a few bucks more, get this one: amazon.de/BenQ-GL2450HT-Höhenverstellbarer-Höhenverstellung-Reaktionszeit/dp/B00BPL078S
It's basically the same monitor, but with a much much better and adjustable foot. Believe me, you want this.
I had an Asus with a shitty foot before (terrible ghosting), sold it and got 3 of link above used for 200€. It's a decent monmitor but viewing angles are garbage, even for TN standards.
The ability to adjust your monitor and pivot it is priceless.

I went with Thermaltake Suppressor F31:
thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002733
I just fucking love cases that are just big, rectangular, sound proofed black boxes. My first serious case was an Antec P182 and it stuck with me since.

And the Suppressor is pretty much the best example of the type that I found so far. Extremely modular and perfectly cohesive. I like it a lot more than the Fractal Design ones for example.

I also like cases with tempered glass panels, they're not for me but if you want a window they're the only type I'd consider. The new NZXT S340 Elite looks pretty nice:
nzxt.com/products/s340-elite-black

Swapped monitors. Was half-tempted to get a GL2450E, but that one was too cheap not to make me suspicious.

Given that this is my first build I'm a bit afraid of thermal paste, though.

God i love Tt now. Literally the only fucking manufacturer that uploads that many pics of it's product. Amazing, this is how you marketing.
Case looks gorgeous and functional, reminds me of my old Tt Armor.

>Given that this is my first build I'm a bit afraid of thermal paste
It's easy. Just don't touch it or breathe it in if you don't want to die.
No seriously, it's easy. place a pea sized drop in the middle, put the heatsink on and let it spread the paste.
That's the easiest method of applying thermal compound, there are others, but the temp differences are rather minor.
Btw, H7 comes with thermal compound, just checked it.

So I won't need to buy extra, and there's a fucking manual I can read.
Good.

>Reasons why this is bad
>1. The PSU is the most volatile competent in a PC. If it goes bad, it can take every other component with it, especially so if it's a cheap one. Luckily, decent PSUs don't generate much heat, so the air it pushes inside should be only slightly above room temperature.
I doubt that. I think it pushed a fair amount of hot air in. And if it doesn't, then there's not much danger in reversing the air flow and pushing it out.

>2. It means opening up the PSU. If you're asking stupid questions on /pcbg/, you're probably gonna kill yourself. Seriously. People have died fucking with those things.
I've opened my PSU once before to blow the dust out. It's not a biggie.

>3. There are better options for this problem, such as getting a fanless or "silent" PSU.
Fuck that shit. That generates too much heat. I prefer pushing the air out over that solution.

I plan on switching to an 280mm aio to push my 4690k well past 4ghz so:
>which one? I will install it to the front of my case so no swiftech for me and no 200€+ gear like the ek stuff
>how can i ensure my mobo stays cool when there is no longer any hsf to create airflow on top of it?

Thoughts on this motherboard? Are there better alternatives at this price?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130897

pcpartpicker.com/list/hPvyWX
>purpose: gaming
>budget: none really, but don't want to spend more than 2k
Any way I can improve this build? It seems perfect for me, and I already have a 1TB WD Blue hard drive I can format.

God that case it utter garbage.

Looking at building my second Gaming PC, and I've pretty much got the components nailed down I think.
However, I can't quite decide on a case. I want an ITX build, but I'm not sure about heat vs. larger cases.
I want an Enthoo Envolv ITX case, but I've read the temperatures on the GPU can get bloody high compared to larger cases because the GPU fans are like 2mm away from the top of the PSU. The alternative is a Corsair 250D which pulls air directly into the GPU fans from the outside.
Build specs otherwise, just for alternatives.
>Gigabyte Z170 ITX
>i5 6600k
>Memevo 212
>GTX 1070 (Evga likely)
>16GB RAM
>Evga 650w PSU
>256GB Samsung SSD
>Enthoo Evolv ITX or Corsair 250D
Also, how long would this set-up last me likely? I'm currently running off an AMD X4 955 and an ASUS HD6850. I don't want to spend close to 2000 dollars CAD on something that will only be good for like 3 years.

Looks good, similar to what I went for.

Personally I went with 6700k so I don't have to upgrade anything other than GPU for as long as possible, if you have the budget I'd consider it.

And maybe a non-meme case but that's like, my opinion, man.

pcpartpicker.com/product/9XL7YJ/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bkw
What about the R5?

N200

but an i5 6500 instead

If your PSU is hot enough to be smug about it you need a new one
Fanless PSUs are possible because good PSUs barely make any heat

pcpartpicker.com/list/YRMt3F

ftfy

It's a perfectly fine, safe choice.

If you want something "cooler" looking, look around at the various tempered glass panel cases - there's a decent variety by now, and you can get something that's practical yet still looks really nice, if you're into that sort of thing.

>Fanless PSUs are possible because good PSUs barely make any heat
lel'd. you're obviously a retard who has no clue how AC-DC conversion works.

What are some of the better case fans?

Noctua.

Ok but I'm not wrong

yes you are. heat will always be there because of mosfets. EE 101.

Quesion, if the case I want to get has two fans pre-installed, and I'm not interested in getting more, should I get a motherboard with 2 fan headers instead of 1? Or is having one fan powered by the psu good enough?

pcpartpicker.com/list/CX3pKZ

Building for 1080p 144hz gaming, budget is >2000, from Germany and I want this build to last as long as possible before I have to upgrade.

Would I be fine going with an i5-6600k OC'd? Also, if I'm going to OC CPU, GPU and RAM, will 550W be enough?

Please recommend me a good SSD + HDD, honestly just picked what I felt like and know crap about these.

But with good ones. not enough to be significant over room temp

This is what 2k will get you:
pcpartpicker.com/list/phxJnn

I put a i5 6400 in a H110 did I fuck up?

I felt like I didn't need the overclocking. I get about 3.1 GHz with Intel's Turbo Boost.

>But with good ones. not enough to be significant over room temp
nigga, ALL mosfets produce heat. ALL OF THEM. what fanless PSUs do is they have large heat sinks. but a heat sink still needs air to flow over it and remove the heat. fanless PSUs are OK for small PCs with small power requirements.

A few questions
When is the best time to buy components? Is the price differential worth the wait?

Are there any major hardware updates/refreshes/whatever the term is, I don't usually pay attention to this shit coming up that I should wait for?

I'm going to be using Linux with Windows in a VM with PCI passthrough. The gentoo wiki recommends two graphics cards or else the host will need to be run headless. Does the internal CPU graphics chipset count?

If you aren't overclocking, there is no reason to buy anything above an h110 unless you need some weird feature the other ones offer.
Intel being jews/10 on the 4 different kinds of boards and only one allows overclocking.

>budget is >2000
I assume this was meant to be Would I be fine going with an i5-6600k OC'd?
Yes, but with your budget.. why not get i7?
>I'm going to OC CPU, GPU and RAM, will 550W be enough?
Get 650 for OC and future upgrades.

de.pcpartpicker.com/list/VPNh7h
de.pcpartpicker.com/list/VPNh7h

i feel like theres some hidden meaning to ops pic can someone explain

Capitalism unchecked is soulless.

It is important for civilians to be well educated so they don't buy so much useless shit.

Anyway I might as well post the build I want to make.

I have a budget of about $700-750
It's going to be used for music production (Actual music production, not fucking around), moderate gaming, and lots of virtualization.

I need a decent processor, lots of RAM, and a decent graphics card

the issue is I'm good with the software side of computers and server hardware. Not with consumer/hobbyist stuff. I've never shopped for computer parts before and quite frankly don't give a shit 99% of the time.
Which means I know next to nothing about hardware tiers, what's available to me, what brands are good, what the difference is between them all, etc. I only know the most basic of shit (i7>i5>i3, essentially.)

oh so in other words referrencing "i7 only gaymen" instead of using that for professional workloads

is the difference between the i5-6500 and i5-6400 worth the price?

>H110 + i7-6700K
Nigger please.

Yes, 6400 isn't really worth it. You might get an i3-6100 instead.

The h110 is a shit AIO

Is this a good cheap build? I want to play games on medium-high settings and basic school stuff.
My budget is 500 or under.

Stupid bitch.

Forgot link. Shit.
pcpartpicker.com/list/nZp4pb

if these are all the same gpu (gtx 1060) then why do the prices and performance vary

Are you blind?

pcpartpicker.com/list/HhLRVY

This is for Roblox, GTA III, GMod, and very casual video editing. I feel like this could be better, but the person who I'm making this for is pretty easy to please.

Where could I improve? I'm considering an AMD build, actually.

Looks good.

Performance varies because of factory overclocks. Some cards ship at the stock speeds, more high end cards ship with high overclocks.

see
>>I know next to nothing about hardware tiers, what's available to me, what brands are good, what the difference is between them all, etc. I only know the most basic of shit

I have no idea what the difference is between those graphics cards. I just know they have "gtx 1060" in common. I'm looking for explanations, not condescension.

is it possible for me to buy a card at stock clock and then overclock it myself?

1060=low tier 1070=mid tier 1080= high tier. The custom cards have different cooling systems and base/boost clocks.

Nigger it's right in your picture. Different cards, different clock speeds, different heatsinks, different brand, different prices.

Don't forget to add a copy of Windows XP, its a real step-up from Windows 98 and will run with GTA III better :^)

Kek. Windows 10 isn't an issue.

How poor are you?

My bad, it was supposed to be

Not really poor, but I wanted to build this computer for someone and maybe introduce them to building a computer and the process of it.

I'd rather not spend too much money but I want him to be left with a decent machine for what he does. That said, AMD in this case is looking pretty sweet, especially if the integrated are better than similar Intels.

*integrated graphics

>integrated graphics being remotely comparable to a GTX 750
Ayy

Yes.

However, it's not a guarantee. Each individual chip has its own limits. There's a possibility you can buy a card and get a crappy overclocker (it's call the silicon lottery). The best chips are usually reserved for the most expensive cards, in a process called binning.

So if you pay a high price for the most expensive card EVGA/Gigabyte/MSI/Asus has to offer you're guaranteed to get a good overclocker (since it comes stock with a heavy overclock already), while if you get a cheaper cards it's more of a crapshoot.

I'm german, too, so yeah.. no problem m8.
Two additional case fans are not needed but with your budget you might as well spend some money on excellent fans to increase airflow and i think the R5 comes with only 1x120mm fan mounted at the front

They don't have to be better than an actual GPU, in fact that could be a later upgrade.

Integrated GPUs are essentially useless for gaming. Its really only for running basic functions of the computer or playing flash games.
Do not expect acceptable results using only an iGPU

Okay. I'll admit, graphics cards and PC gaming is one of my weakpoints with tech.

It doesn't help that I mostly play 2D games with my PC, so that's why my integrated graphics are okay for me.

/pcbg/, what's the best/a good fan to put on the top of your case to suck all the hot air out of your pc case?

and on that note, if you had a shitty fan and a high grade fan, which one would you put on front of the case to suck air into the case and which one would you put on the back of the case to suck air out of the case and why?

Looks alright, I suppose. No weird combination so you're all set

are psu power cables and laptop ac charger cables interchangeable? my laptop one is longer so I'd prefer to use it on my desktop psu if possible?

I guess what i'm asking is: what is more important? pulling cool air in or pushing hot air out?

alright you guys get to laugh at a retard's first build.
pcpartpicker.com/list/yHMt3F

What can I do to jew the price down a bit more? Could I get away with the i3-6100 for my use case? How hard would it hurt virtualization?

>z170 mobo with a non OC cpu
>aftermarket cooler for a non OC cpu
>low ram gpu
>no ssd

Also iirc cpu's come with thermal paste in the box.

>z170 board with non-overclocking cpu
>GTX 1060 3GB instead of 6GB model

>>GTX 1060 3GB instead of 6GB model
>>low ram gpu
I'm trying to keep the price under $750. Would it make that much of a difference?

>>z170 board with non-overclocking cpu
>>z170 mobo with a non OC cpu
didn't know about that.
What boards would I be looking for then?

>>aftermarket cooler for a non OC cpu
I thought stock coolers were loud as fuck

and also what about the i5-6500 vs i3-6100

You're wasting money buying the lesser model, I have never heard anybody say "I'm glad I bought the 3GB version over the 6GB one." The money you'll save buying a cheaper mobo will make up for the difference where it actually matters.

how about this then?
pcpartpicker.com/list/PBBnpb

what mobo would you recommend? Does the i3-6100 overclock out of the box?

>Does the i3-6100 overclock out of the box?
rather, can I OC it?

Get a B150 motherboard. The price difference will cover the cost of a 6GB 1060.

You don't NEED the 6GB model at 1080p but it will help in the long run.

The 6100 doesn't overclock at all. You need a K series CPU to OC, which is the 6600k and up.

As someone that has been working with ableton and renoise for 5 years with a AMD FX-6300, I can assure you that an i3 is more than enough.

You'll need the lots of RAM though. And plenty of hard drive space for sample and vst libraries.

For a non OC cpu, you want the H110 ones like in the OP pic. That pic is joking about the opposite of what you did. Pairing a K cpu (OCing) with a non OC board.

If you're going for silence, maybe an aftermarket cooler is good after all. I'm not up to date on sound differences.

What he said.

afaik only K processors, ie unlocked ones, can OC.

For i5 cores, its either the 6500 or 6600k for what is worth while. If you're willing to spend a bit more, 6500 all the way.
Intel CPUs do not overclock unless it has a "k" suffix, in which case you need a z170 board. You're wasting mnoney using an overclocking board with a non-overclocking cpu.
Which board? Check Newegg and search for "LGA 1151" under motherboards. Find what has decent reviews and is cheap.
This too. It is entirely dependent on how long you want it to last for, or what level of performance you expect. Look up videos on Youtube of guys comparing each CPU side-by-side in games to see the differences.

I don't play much, but I've been holding off on buying the new games I want to play (GTA V, the new DOOM and Mirror's Edge) because my current build (Okay-for-its-time Alienware prebuilt that I got for free, crossfire 5780's) can't handle them well at all.
The games I do play now work fine with the cards I have, but could be better.

I'm not gonna be doing 4k gaming, I only have a 1080 monitor.

Is it worth waiting for Zen?
Its not like I'm in need of a new PC within the next several months, but I'm just curious what people think.

How's this for a build?

pcpartpicker.com/list/JCcnpb

1080p60 games at high/very high settings

two crossfire 5870s rather

Personally, if you have the extra dosh, I'd go for and overclocking build, otherwise your PSU is overkill.

Also, no spinning disk? Games are huge now.

Fuck, meant for

The 6GB 1060 will do fine then.
Smaller SSD and a 1TB HDD might be a smarter choice. Of course, you could always just buy an HDD down the road once your SSD fills up. Your choice.
Otherwise bretty gud.

Making a build and going all out for it. Thinking of painting my computer case. I have an unused mountain mods duality case its huge. Right now its black and was thinking of going white with it to match a ASUS deluxe 2 x99 motherboard.

Should I do it? Should I just skip it and go black and white? How the hell do I decide what color of white matches it? If I do it I will be going with spray paint though I will not be skipping the prep work like sanding and primer.

Don't really wanna overclock, I'd rather just get a weaker PSU if that's the case.

I definitely wanna keep the SSD size but I'll throw an HDD in there for good measure as well.

Currently debating whether I should switch out the GTX 1060 for an RX 480 though.

Assemble the computer and just spray-paint it while running, it'll help the paint fill the insides too with a nice even coat. Then you won't have to worry about anything not matching.

alright here's this then.
still on the fence about the i3 vs i5 but the i5 puts me over budget.
It also future proofs the build a bit more
pcpartpicker.com/list/HjzTM8

1060 vs 480 is entirely based on if you're willing to give up a little performance for a little money savings. Again, watch some Youtube videos on the two and watch the fps differences and figure out if that is worth the more/less money.

>going to build first PC soon
>Terrified of breaking something or something going wrong
Read the wiki, not sure how specific of a video I will need, I'm even worried I won't find something exact enough. Worried about stuff dropping, falling on top of other parts, being unable to turn it on, and probably the most, using too much force and breaking something. If I could afford it I would pay someone to do it.

I'm not sure, but an i3 may bottleneck a 1060.
You will see a significant improvement of in-game performance with the i5 though.

Go watch a Jaztwocents/bitwit/hardwarecanuck/linustechtips videos if you're that nervous about it.

Get your ass to a local hardware store and start leafing through those paint tab things.

Yeah you may as well lower it to like 550 or 600. Should save you a little, but now and down the road.

If you can afford it, the i5 will prob last you longer and give you better performance, but overall that's a way better build than what you started with.

Everything is tough as nails now because it has to withstand overexcited 15 year olds. Just calm down and follow the instructions, it's like expensive legos.

>Get your ass to a local hardware store and start leafing through those paint tab things.

Ah ok.

I will, thanks

What about installing the CPU on Intel mobos? So scared I will be too gentle and when it doesn't work I will accidentally use too much force.

>Ableton and Renoise
Mah nigga
Mah fucking nigga

you need to get over yourself it's pretty hard to fuck a processor up

I fucked around with old dell optiplexes all day everyday back in highschool. Once you get the processor aligned right they just plop in and you flip the ZIF lever and you're done.

You're more likely to fuck something up installing an AMD CPU than an Intel. They just drop straight in mate. If you need to apply pressure you're doing it wrong.

HAF 912 is a good case, fuck huge internally and has capability for up to 2 120/140mm on the front or top with the option to do a 200mm instead , and a 120mm on the back and side panel

>on intel mobos
Assuming you mean brand, the boards aren't any more expensive than any other ones.

Assuming you mean sockets, iirc Intel has the pins on the mobos, so if you fuck those up you're only out like 100 bucks as opposed to 200 or more. But really, they're pretty tough. Just be firm, but never force.

I'm ready to order the last parts I need (motherboard, case, cooler) this week.

It's a $1200-$1300 gaming build meant to be paired with a 1440p 144Hz Freesync monitor.

Motherboard question: I obtained an i7 6400t ES for cheap and need a midrange board that can support BCLK overclocking and crossfire. Do I go with a new Asrock Extreme6, an open box Asus Maximus VIII Hero from Newegg, or something else?

pcpartpicker.com/list/vc8gnn

A 50 dollar GPU will beat integrated graphics dude. Fuck a 20 dollar 1 gb ddr card will beat it.

my final question
is this going to be an impulse purchase and will I regret buying it

>1440p gaming on a 35W cpu
Um.

>No context
Um.

>Warning: These parts have potential issues/incompatibilities

sorry dude but this build looks messy.
Are you sure everything is compatible?

OK, I need a new motherboard and CPU as both have a failed on me. My PC is pretty old (around 8 years) My case is a thermaltake V9 and I've got a GIGABYTE GeForce 9800 GT graphics card which I will think about upgrading further on. My budget is below $250. My only intention with the PC is for playing CS:GO.

>Fuck a 20 dollar 1 gb ddr card will beat it.
Not even close. You're severely out of touch.

>Remember my rig is 6 years old and still runs new games well on lower settings, and older ones perfect on high.
>about to recommend it's processor (i7 960)
>it's $300-400 TODAY

What the fuck is going on. I feel like I'm in the twilight zone.

Its 742 dollars on Amazon Canada lel
>I have the only one of X item
>haha I'll charge a ridiculous amount no one will ever pay for it
I'll never understand, fucking Amazon stores man.

Holy shit, that's insanity. People do that shit on Steam and Ebay too, but the stupid thing is that every once in a while some retard pays that price, making it plausible and worth it.

Appreciate the feedback.

PCPartpicker doesn't have the correct specs for the Extreme6. The board does have a USB 3.0 header and supports crossfire.

I was hoping someone had some experience with Skylake BCLK overclocking and could recommend a midrange board for that purpose.

Ok, so I am planning to upgrade my pc, will these parts be a good start?

pcpartpicker.com/list/cds4pb

>i3
better then my 8350 evidently by the benchmarks, but idk, i still need to do more research

>z170 mobo
in case I ever need to upgrade, i dont know if I should plan past the i5 6500, as well as the fast RAM.

>RAM
its fast, its good.

Out of curiosity, can I use my old copy of Windows 7 on a new computer, then upgrade to Windows 10 using the free download thing?
You can still do it a certain way, but is it worth while if I'm building a brand new PC or should I just pony up for Windows 10?

Your mobo explanation still doesn't explain why you bought something designed for overclocking and both cpu's do not support it.

The free upgrade period from win7 and 8 is over, lad. You missed the starting gun. Honestly though there is nothing wrong with using win7 on a new PC. The only thing windows 10 has that it doesn't is dx12 support, but there's only like 5 games that use it anyhow.

Actually you can still do it through a couple of channels. The reason I want Windows 10 is for Xbox One controller support lel.

>still doesn't explain

>i dont know if I should plan past the i5 6500, as well as the fast RAM

its a shitty one at that, i was just wondering if getting it for the fast ram was worth it (which i know it is not, looking back at some other prices)

but what would you guys reccomend?

My Current build

I went with a EVGA one. Works like a charm for me.

does the 8320 ever bottleneck you?

Yeah it's definitely not worth getting a motherboard for fast ram instead of a fast cpu. If you have the extra 80-100 bucks to spend upgrade to the 6600K, keep the mobo, maybe downgrade the ram speed and OC that yourself too.

Interesting. I knew you could still download it for free off their website and use some 3rd party shit to activate it, but I have no plans to upgrade any time soon so I haven't looked too much into it.

Surprisingly no. Only once in a blue moon its ever done something like that.

Winfags ^^^

I wasn't aware of the diverse library available on Linux and Apple.

It's time to take that fedora off your head and shove it up your ass.

Yeah lemme just boot up linux and run all the industry standard software, games, and utility programs on it- oh wait.

I'm looking to put an old 3570k and 16GB I have laying around to good use.

Is it possible to run a computer as a NAS and also host a couple of game servers in a VM at the same time? Nothing to big, just a CSGO server or maybe a Minecraft server for my brother and a few of our friends.

Either way, what's a decently small case that holds an ATX motherboard and has ~3-4 HDD bays.

>industry standard

If by industry you mean the self absorbed consumerist autist industry then yeah sure. If you mean the industry of adding/creating technology rather than being another cancerous diabetes statistic then all you need is an IDE. Stop being such a fucking faggot.

Then you need to get a clue.
Someone's butthurt.
Brainwashed winshill, there's lots of equivilents to winblows programs out there or win ones that run in wine.

You don't need to upgrade the CPU. One thing you might do is some stress testing to see how long the 8320 can maintain its max boost clock. If it throttles quickly, you should get an aftermarket cooler. No fucking reason to trade an 8320 for an i3 at this point, even if the single core performance is much better. You can easily maintain 60FPS with the 8320, especially in DX12 games, an API which specifically lightens the load on the CPU. Plus, Zen is around the corner. You can get either Zen (AMD) or Kaby Lake (Intel) after you see the benchmarks.

Your graphics card needs the upgrade. A 2GB 960 is pretty weak. You need a 3GB 1060, 6GB 1060, 470, or 480. Personally I would suggest the 4GB 470 if you want AMD or a 6GB 1060 if you want NVIDIA.

Gonna make you even more mad and tell you that I use Visual Studio too. Can you give me any full fledged IDEs that run only on Linux?

For $60 would a Xeon X5650 be a good upgrade for my i7 950?

I know, I know, "You're better off getting a new CPU." That means buying the CPU itself plus a new motherboard and, if I go Skylake, new RAM. I don't have the money for all that right now, but I can afford to throw $60 at an old chip IF it will be a decent boost (cooling and power draw are also a factor).

Looking to upgrade my 380x with something a little less power hungry and a smaller form factor, if possible

1060 6gb, 480 8gb , or 470 8gb?

So I'm a complete fucking idiot with some money to spend and my birthday coming up and I'm looking to get the 1080, should I be looking at upgrading my CPU and motherboard as well?

Probably not for gaming, you've already got 8 threads and you'll have lower single core performance. OC on the 950 would be better

Personally I'd say 4GB 470, aftermarket of course.

A new i5 definitely wouldn't hurt, but that would mean you'd have to upgrade your mobo and ram as a result, which can add up. That said, your CPU would be a bottleneck if you got a 1080 and left everything else.

1060. AMD is power hungry for its performance.

>OC on the 950 would be better

The problem is the 950 gets really hot when it's OC'd, hot enough that my 212 EVO really can't do the job. Since the X5650 has a smaller die size I figure it would stay cooler when overclocking.

I'd get the i3 and add a 240GB SSD. You can upgrade the CPU later if you need to.

Ask a guy that bought a 212 Evo for his new 6600k build anything.

I bought the evga gtx 1070 sc for $409 on Amazon. I thought it was a decent deal.

I stressed it for 40-50 minutes with CPU-Z, all the while i watched a youtube video, as well as played a small flash game.

Hovered around 43-44 C, and maxed at 45 C at ~3.7 Ghz.

So I should be good?

5+ years. 6600k and 1070 will be the 2500k/680/7970 times. It will last a long time, I've got the same build except nano S

>6600k
>evga gtx 1070 sc
>16GB ram
>Corsair RM650x
>1 480gb ssd games, 256gb ssd for OS/programs
>Nano S
>Corsair H105

Go watch any techtuber that makes builds for under $250 and start from there, csgo will run at 144hz at any res under 1080 (if you're good at csgo you usually play at 4:3 or 16:9 so who cares)

$100 gpu, maybe 780 ti and a old dell with a decent i7 would do good.

But the PSU in your picture is sucking the air out, notice the direction of the fan...

>stressed it for 40-50 minutes with CPU-Z,
You didn't even hit your max boost of 4GHz. Not much of a stress test. Try prime95

not a full build for 250 just MoBo and CPU combo

For months I've dreamed of having a 6600k/Z170/16GB rig.

Now I'm in a position where I might be able to manage an upgrade, but I'll have to settle for 6500/B150/8GB. Cheaper in the short term, but will I be kicking myself in the long run?

Get an i3 6100, 8GB, and a Z170. You'll be able to upgrade to a 6600K (or 7600K) when you need to.

Hm....

That's not a bad idea.

The CPU + Mobo combo I was hoping for, with 8GB of RAM, is 539 CAD.

The 6500 setup is 433

I could shift down to the 6300 with the Z170 board for 419.

But if I shift down again to the 6100 I can get an even nicer mobo and get it all for just 400.

Amazon has a few used 980 Ti cards for under $300 right now. Just got an EVGA model for $275.

I'm working on this server build: pcpartpicker.com/list/gKKt3F
I went with the i3-6320 since it's pretty damn good at single threaded performance, and like the other Skylake i3s it's no slouch at threaded applications either.
The motherboard seemed like a good price and quality and supports RAID 10, which is part of my backup solution.
I chose 16GB of RAM over 8 since I'm planning on experimenting with virtual machines. I'd go with 8 otherwise.
Are the WD Reds a meme? They seemed like a good value out of the hard drives marketing themselves for 24/7 operation.
The case was chosen since it had enough external bays to support my hotswap bays and seems to have good cooling to me.
The PSU probably seems like overkill, and it is wattage-wise, but it was the cheapest platinum rated PSU that I could find. I really wanted a platinum PSU since I live in Texas and I want to keep everything cool and power efficient for those hot Summers so my power bill isn't any higher than it needs to be.
And the hot swap bays are to hold my hard drives. They'll be run in a RAID 10 configuration, with each cage holding a complete mirror. That way I can periodically and easily take a mirror out to be my backup and insert another set of drives to become actively mirrored.
I plan on getting a UPS, but I haven't picked one out yet.

Is any of my build plan retarded? Is it pretty solid? Do you have anything else you'd like to make a note of? Any feedback is appreciated.

So, is there any time of the year that's best for buying components?
I imagine, for instance, that Christmas will see a dramatic increase in part cost.

I've had a look around
MoBo
pccasegear.com/products/36488/msi-970a-g43-plus-motherboard
CPU
pccasegear.com/products/21808/amd-fx-6300-6-core-black-edition-processor

Thoughts?

Yeah, I've seen the EVGA circlejerk, but the only EVGA card in my price range is the founders edition, which is out of the question.

The cheapest non-reference version is significantly more expensive than those two.

Is the 1080ti gonna be worth the wait?Every fucking second seems like torture...

>PSU a shit
>16GB RAM meme
>I5-6600 skylel cpu

kill yourself

No

Are you planning on gaming at 4k or 1440p 144hz? If not, don't bother.

1440p 144hz,yes.

Going to order the parts in a few days unless there's anything I need to change. My budget is roughly $800 (with Amazon and tax this about maxes it out). This is my first build.

>16gb ram for gaming
>case twice as expensive as PSU

wtf are you doing nigger

Already have my peripherals and the g card, any glaring flaws in this new build?

I was very particular about color coding this shit and I didn't mind paying the extra money to have the ability to showcase a color-coordinated build.

Nothing I can see, user.

Fuck, forgot my pic AND the list.

pcpartpicker.com/list/CXtDjc

So what's the deal? How the ballistix sport lt ram is (slightly) cheaper, even though it's ddr4 2400 instead of 2133? What makes a good ram stick anyway?

cas and latency

Why did you go with a 1060? I bet you could have fit a 1070 in this if you bought a cheaper SSD, more affordable PSU, and skipped the pointless sound card.

But what's done is done, what remains is why the hell are you buying a 6600k if your mobo and cooler says you're not going to overclock?

>A 50 dollar GPU will beat integrated graphics dude.
It won actually if the comparison is between a new 50 dollar piece of shit dedicated card and an iGPU from new i7s. Never buy those shitty fucking cheap integrated GPUs. Buy something used, save up and get something around the 100 dollar range or just use the iGPU. There is literally nothing good around 50 bucks if you are buying new.

CAS/Latency and voltage.

>Never buy those shitty fucking cheap integrated GPUs
Meant dedicated of course.

I already purchased the graphics card and really can't justify upgrading the g card so soon already.

Sound card isn't pointless at all - while some may not be able to tell the difference, I certainly can. But this is getting off-topic.

Is there a better price-point CPU I should pick up considering I don't really plan on heavily over-clocking? From what I read about the cooler at least, it was completely capable in handling overclocks.

Mobo is "gaymin grade" or marketed as such so I assumed it would have decent overclocking speed.

I'm learnin' here.

I'm not sure if I don't play games because I don't want to or because I can't on my mac. Anyway, I want to get a new laptop but also might replace my desktop. Live at home, and go to college(mech eng).

>Do I buy a cheap laptop mainly for school but can run very light games? And then maybe consider a good PC?

>Or do I buy a moderate/good laptop for both home and school use?

I'm not sure if I'll ever play intensive/AAA games or not if I had something good enough for them.

>Also, how do I stop budget from creeping up when building a PC and probably building something more powerful than what I need?

>Name of the portable keyboard/mousepad on the board that's meant for gaming or using PC in living room and not at a desk? (Forgot it)

First time pc builder here. Going to be building this pc in a week or so but I am just finalising my choices. Going to be for gaming and some uni cad work on solidworks.

ASUS TURBO-GTX1060-6G 6 GB Graphics Card - Black

Asus VX229H 21.5-inch Widescreen LED Multimedia Monitor (1920x1080, 5ms, VGA)

Asus Z170M-PLUS Socket LGA1151 Motherboard

Toshiba DT01ACA300 3TB 3.5 inch SATAIII Hard Drive

Corsair CMK8GX4M2B3000C15 Vengeance LPX 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 3000Mhz CL15 XMP 2.0 High Performance Desktop Memory Kit, Black

Corsair CW-9060007-WW Hydro Series H60 High Performance 120mm Rad All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler

Corsair Obsidian Series 350D - mid tower - micro ATX

Intel Core I5-6600K Processor (3.5 GHz, 6 M Cache, LGA1151)

Windows 10 Home 32-bit/64-bit English International

Pc part picker says that everything is compatible but can someone please point out if I have chosen something retarded.

This is very similar to my new build I'm working on.

While I can't say for certain, I've done some very extensive homework and there shouldn't be any issues with compatibility.

It's interesting to me that it's your first time building but you're already gonna put a liquid cooler in there.

wtf you can make this 4-500 dollars for the same performance step down everything keep graphics card

Friend that says he will help me build it keeps telling me that a corsair aio is the way to go these days. I watched a few videos and its as easy as sticking the cooler on and plugging it in.

Cool thanks.

Anything that you recommend I change? Britbong by the way.

I mean it looks as easy*

If I am walking into trouble then please say.

pcpartpicker.com/list/kQ8t3F

Same user from a while back, I did lots of tweaking and stuff like that since then, returning items and blah blah blah, and now it shows all my current parts coming in.


Did I do good?

>$60 in rebates

Decent build
>-60$
I hate you.

Not worth it. Dead socket, no upgrades. Just get an i3 6100 (significantly better for your purposes) and you can upgrade the CPU in a few years to revitalize your PC.

Not bad, break up the RAM into x2 4GB and drop to the i5 6500.

pcpartpicker.com/list/4NmMCy
>Budget: 800$
>Purpose: An overall upgrade to replace my toaster, play games at a stable framerate without looking like complete ass at least.

I have no idea what to get, I just took recommendations from various parts lists. I'm mostly unsure about the graphics card and the motherboard, if there's any better alternatives?

>budget build
>Z170-A
>WD Black
Nigga are you even trying?

I need a longer psu power cable. Should i just get a longer one or is an extension cord?

Decent, only reason to get a Z170 is to upgrade to an unlocked CPU in the future (or possibly multiGPU, unlikely to be worth it)

Get 3000MHz RAM if you stick with the Z170

I got lost on motherboards and wanted one that was reliable, and that one came up for me. What's a cheaper but decent one?

For the WD Black, I don't know Hard Drives. Seagate is a good inexpensive one, right?

Upgrading from an old i5-2500 build to something more recent. Looking through the thread I decided on these parts here: pcpartpicker.com/list/hMZYd6

Should I change anything up? Not planning to overclock or anything, already have a case, but need advice on a new PSU.

Ok, listen carefully.
A Z170 will enable you to MANUALLY overclock your i3 and upgrade to an unlocked CPU. If you plan on doing this, get a Z170 mobo, aftermarket hsf, 3000 RAM and slightly bigger PSU, see here:
pcpartpicker.com/list/H7Wh7h
If you do not plan on upgrading to an unlocked CPU or to overclock, get a H110/H170/B150 mobo, 2133 RAM and smaller PSU. Link below is a decent budget w/o upgradeability, but it will serve your purpose well:
pcpartpicker.com/list/tNqFZ8

>pcpartpicker.com/list/tNqFZ8
Not him, but would these hard drives be better? Or just as good?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820228142

Budget 1TB WD's, Seagates and Toshibas are all the same. For that price i'd say it's the silicon lottery that decides on failure.
Bigger HDD's are a different story: backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-stats-q1-2016/
>inb4 kekblaze

Even then 1080 is fine and it's quite a bit cheaper than the ti will be

>HDD
>Silicon lottery

>HDDs are just plain disks lol

Let's say I have a design I've tested for a new hardware component that would make overclockers love me.

Would you be more inclined to buy a product manufactured in the USA? I plan on making domestic. No outsourcing, only american hands.

assuming the quality is better than overseas products, but the price point was higher, would you consider buying a product made somewhere that isn't third world?

I honestly do it myself with stuff like mushkin, I don't trust jungle niggers to consistently make quality products, and having gotten enough lottery's wrong I bet you all agree.

second world or higher

All components I can't acquire domestically will be manufactured in the USA.

please rate/advice

I need it for (heavy) work and gaming. It should kinda be futureproof.
I've been out of the hardware scene since early 2013. So most knowledge is useless or lost.

Guys, I think I fucked up.
Bought an i3-6100 for 118 dollaroos.

Went on Jet.Com today, and found an i5-6500 for fucking 167.

I know Jet is a gamble when it comes to orders, but damn this is a GOOD gamble.

Just get a prebuilt.

dude what.

was that using triple15?

Go buy a prebuilt computer. You don't know what you're doing.

Fucking hell..
Do what said and get a prebuild. Your knowledge is not lost, it never existed.

nah, stop the memes pls

Can someone build me a $500-$600 computer? I'm in the US.

I can, you only need to pay me a ticket to the US, a day in a 5 star hotel, expenses and of course the parts + work hours ex. VAT.
Do we have a deal?

No offense m8, but your build is bad and you could easily read up the basics within an hour.

pcpartpicker.com/list/hBx3wV

Bottleneck like a motherfucker on the CPU unless you wanna spend the extra ~100$ for the next higher tier (i'd go with a skylake/z170 mobo for future upgrading) but here's your cheap piece of crap

Dan4 or Ncase M1?

I've pretty much decided my components at this point. I just want to have a nice portable system. Which costs less?

>crowdfunded computer gaymer cases

Just jump off the closest bridge

Yeah, it was using TRIPLE15.

I'm really not sure what to do now, I think I'll repackage the i3 and sell it locally for 100 and grab the i5 before that.

...

pcpartpicker.com/list/skFNzM

The Dan a4 was just picked up by Lian Li.

Either way. No matter if they're crowd funded if they perform their function better than any other sff itx cases out there from big companies.

I don't actually play games. I'm not even buying a graphics card you projecting faggots.

Stop giving advice to people

>le ebin crowdfunded gaymer rainbow cases with shitty built in fans
>not using it for gaming

Are you serious? Lol

Your cancer can't get any more latent

I need a laptop for games and my budget is 1400$cad or 1000$usd. Help pls

Tell ya what, I've got two things coming in from Jet right now actually. An i5 6500 and a gigabyte gtx 1060. When they arrive I'll make a post about how they were shipped if you're worried about it being 'safe' or not. Said it was supposed to be here sometime between the 5th and the 11th

>Dan4
>one port
>Ncase M1
>almost 200$
Autists like you should stick to shiny Apple products.

Alright man.

Jet really seems like one of those "hit or MISS HORRIBLY WITH GRAVE CONSEQUENCES" kind of sites.

Does not getting a graphics card court as gaming now?

Please name me two better sff itx cases if you could be so kind. Or fuck off and get out of this thread.

People who bitch about "gaymers" ruin this fucking thread.

You might as well up the RAM to 16GB considering you're selecting 3000Mhz - while not everything will fully utilize the 16GB, it does future-proof that aspect.

Make sure you buy case fans and check your motherboard for how many headers it allows. If you get more fans than your motherboard allows, they do have splitters that can double or triple your output. Just google chassis fan splitters

I have a really nice SSD in my laptop, and I want to swap it out with a cheap SSD so I can put the good one in my desktop
I don't care how big the cheap SSD is (preferably 120GB?) or how fast it is really, what's the cheapest SSD I can get that won't die immediately?
From what I'm looking at I'm thinking the $40 Sandisk 128GB but is there a cheaper one?

Crucial has some refurbished ones on newegg for dirt cheap.

And while I've never used them, my buddy swears by OCZ for budget SSD

If you want the cheapest SSD available you want the KingDian S280 120GB: gearbest.com/hdd-ssd/pp_313950.html
This is a /csg/ approved, reliable chink SSD for about 35$. Avoid the S180 version, though.

Is it worth getting the 480gb version?

pcpartpicker.com/list/Hg9LPs

Just built and so far couldn't be happier.

If you want more space, sure.

How'd i do boys?

cryorig h7 is the new evo 212

Get a better cooler, EVGA G2 (it's better, see jonnyguru) and probably a better case. The case is subjective, though.
Good choice of RAM and mobo.

Is 650 Watts too overkill if I'm going to be over clocking an i7 and 1070?

Congrats man!Not a fan of red builds but looks good.

650W is fine.

Could I get some opinions on this build please?
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/hd7Lcc

Also any suggestions about suitable cases, and whether its worth getting a SSD over a HDD would be much appreciated.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/ybQJnn

Are there better motherboards for overclocking in the same price range that don't say GAMING everywhere?

Also is the cooler good enough for overclocking?

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/tNqFZ8

I posted this at a weird hour last night, so I'd like to draw some people's attention to this now while things are more active.

Overkill is a concept thrown around too much. PSUs aren't 100% efficient, higher wattage counteracts that. 1000 watts is overkill, but having wattage to spare is a good thing.

>PSUs aren't 100% efficient, higher wattage counteracts that.
Nice to know that you're an idiot. The wattage is how much power the PSU can deliver, not how much it pulls from the wall.

Depends on the 1070, but yeah pretty much. 500W or even less would do just fine even with a mild overclock on both, granted the PSU isn't shit tier and can't hold significant load for prolonged periods.

Just done a part picker of what I have, it started adding up quite quickly.
If only my missus knew.. I've built it over the years though and sold bits to upgrade.
pcpartpicker.com/list/3HCYd6

>pcpartpicker.com/list/3HCYd6
>fell for the G10 meme
It's shit, m8
Enjoy your heat-failing VRMs

VRMs only get mad hot in benches like furmark, in real world gaming they don't, although I can't prove the temps without a probe on them, I have read a lot of reviews before I bought it

I did buy a bunch of heatsinks to stick to them but the thermal tape came loose so I gave up, might stick one on eventually but form what I've read the fan blowing on them is enough

I think it's great, never had the card go above 52deg, and it's oc'd to 2100mhz.

Have you had a card fail because of it, or are you just quoting someone trying to justify their full loop price

>Have you had a card fail because of it
From long-term exposure to high temperatures due to poorly cooled VRMs? Yes, both of my R9 290s. Am I shilling for custom loops, sort of, but there are better hybrid solutions out there than the G10. The G10 sucks because the fan doesn't blow down enough cool air onto the places it needs to, nor does it come with heatsinks to put onto those hot components. The fan is close enough to the PCB to make most aftermarket VRM heatsinks useless..

How long did it take?
I actually cooked my 390x with my 4k screen, that's why I got the g10, it was a cheap cooler with pretty good reviews.
what are the other hybrid options?

>How long did it take?
About nine months with both cards overclocked using a AIO GPU-only block for both of them. I put tiny aluminum heatsinks over their VRMs, but that just wasn't enough.
>what are the other hybrid options?
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1K648X4550
Corsair's HG10 suffers from the same problem as the G10, but not as severely. The difference with Arctic's solution is that there is a massive finned heat-sink on the VRMs, allowing for more heat to get dissipated despite the weaker fan.

Sorry for asking this again, but I still cant solve those two problems:

1) As in pic - Sapphire or MSI model of RX480?

Some people report that Sapphire runs hotter and louder (79*C under maximum test load, 29 on idle, MSI had 73 under maximum load), but have higher clock rate (1342mhz, MSI have 1300).

I dont really want to end up just tossing a coin.

2)Is XFX TS650 a good PSU? I cant find Seasonic S12-II 620W anywhere where I live, but in one shop I asked, I got suggested this model. Review suggest good quality, but Im not experienced enough.

Thanks for replies, like always.

I gotta say, that's some ugly ass shit, but the vrm heatsink is a good idea, I had heard of using zip ties to hold the heatsinks on, I might try these bigger ones I had for my m.2 ssd

You've got me paranoid now, and I don't wanna have to buy a new card 9ish months from now, stock cooler is not an option, ran at 75deg+ gaming

what about
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16817151118

It's $60 after the rebate if you were gonna buy it now

I cant buy from Newegg. Im sorry to forgot to mention, but Im living in Poland.

That SSR-650RM (here showing as G-650) cost around 450 PLN. TS650 cost around 350. I wanted to keep around that price (S12-II would too cost me around 350, if they would have some left).

I'm currently updating my old cpu to fit my 3d modeling and gaming needs. Right now I've got myself 16gb ram, GTX 1070 and a new psu and all I need are a new mobo, cpu and a case.

Now the cpu and mobo are things I would like to have help with. I'm trying to keep the cost under 500€ with case included (max 100€ for that) so 400 for the cpu and mobo.

So, which intel cpu would be the best to pair with 1070? And what mobo should I get with it. I've looked at i5 6600k but what really is the best possible combination?

Warranty is most important, but if they're equal, I'd get the one with the lower max temp. IIRC 80C is supposed the point at which the card throttles itself, but I think you'll have to option to change that to 90C. You'll probably be able to OC the MSI to the same level as the Sapphire.

Get an i3 6100 or i5 6500
Get 3000MHz RAM if you're sticking with the Z170

Consider breaking the RAM up into a x2 4GB kit.
Also get a 2TB HGST HDD, ~$50

Maybe a 6700k with a shitty H or B/shitty chipset. The stock clock of 4ghz and 8 threads is better than anything else for the price, especially if you're doing 3d modeling. Mobos are only relevant if you're going to overclock or need specific connectivity options (e.g. usb 3.1 gen2, SLI/CF support, thunderbolt, pcie raid0, etc.)

If your budget for CPU + mobo is 400, then yes, the i5-6600K is your best bet.
The i7-6700K would be optimal, but that CPU alone costs over 300 leaving not even 80 bucks for a mobo and that's not an option for a i7 build.

So, I'm running this build-
pcpartpicker.com/list/wXs2xY
(Most likely)Going to replace the EVGA 450w PSU(Not listed, it cost me 41.90) with a 520w Seasonic(if I can't fix my power pin problem), probably sell the 450, as it's unused. SATA cables is for any extra SSD's I might want and the extra HDD I have in my room somewhere.

Good deal to upgrade it with that or what else should I change?

What do you have now?

If you have a few dollars to spend, I'd get a 250GB SSD for your games. The 240GB OCZ or $60.
Also what's wrong with the EVGA?

Right now I have AMD Phenom II x6 1100t

How much should I spend on a mobo if I were to get an 6700k?

Finally got a job that doesnt pay shit so I can actually save up some cash for a new gaming PC. I would like to hear your guys input on what I've selected and if you guys think I should switch certain parts, money isn't really a problem but the more expensive it gets, the longer I have to save up. This is what I've been eyeing so far:
pcpartpicker.com/list/s3zDjc

1. The screen I selected for this build cannot be found in the pcpartpicker but it's a 27 inch 1440p Iiyama screen at 75 hertz, Iiyama ProLite B2783QSU. After reading the reviews for the 1070 GTX I kept seeing that it's a pretty decent card for 1440p but that it never really breaks the 75 fps on demanding games so it would make this screen go very well with the 1070 GTX at least until Volta comes out.

2. The CPU I want to OC to 4.2 Ghz which I heard is pretty doable for the 6600K, I took a Scythe Mugen 4 since I recon that should be enough to keep the CPU cool under load with such a mild OC.

3. The Asus motherboard I selected because of the SweetFX onboard soundchip and it seems to be the best price/performance balance for a Z170 board which I need to OC the CPU.

4. For RAM I took 2x8 GB sticks, I know many consider 16 GB too much for a gaming PC but the price difference is so marginal why not.

5. A SSD + HDD, the SSD for the OS and main games I always play and the HDD for all the other games and movies/files/porn. Since I don't want the HDD to die on me and lose all my stuff but still have some decent speed I decided to take a WD Caviar Black instead of a Blue. It might make a bit more sound and use more power but I prefer the better reliability and performance.

6. The case I took because it has decent space and a good front fan, plus it actually looks nice without having too much LEDs which I find turn cases into fucking Christmas trees. The ability to remove the 2.5" trays also means I can free up space if I need more for bigger future GPU's.

This is the absolute minimum i'd get for a Z170 board:
pcpartpicker.com/product/qkX2FT/msi-motherboard-z170apro

If you need an upgrade from the Phenom, you aren't going to be happy with anything besides an i7.

The cost of the Z170 depends on the features you need and how crazy of an OC you put on the 6700K. If it's a light OC you probably can spend 150USD or less.

Don't forget that you can also wait for the prices to drop next year with the release of Zen and Kaby Lake.

Make that 3000 RAM, get better thermal compound like NT-H1 or Kryonaut (shouldn't be that much more expensive) and you're good to go.

That Nitro+ got 79C under test special condition, while running a game, it went at 74C max. Citing review:

>With the target temperature set at 75c, Furmark pushes the cooling system more than any game, and we recorded 79c from both cards. This is not ‘real world’, but we always include it, out of interest. When gaming, the profile worked fine and the temperatures held around 74c under extended gaming load.

www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/zardon/sapphire-rx-480-nitro-oc-4gb-8gb-review/29/

Thats similar to results of other site review of MSI model:

guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_radeon_rx_480_gaming_x_review,7.html

As for overlocking, Im not experienced enough to try it myself, so I prefer just sticking to any oc already done to a model.

As for temperature, would having good airflow in case reduce that GPU temp?

If you really want HDD reliability, get HGST.
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UM3102206
But if you don't think you can fit all the games you want installed at the same time on the SSD, get a bigger one. Personally a 250 would be big enough for me. I've got three AAA games on a 120GB, but that's a little cramped.

>As for overlocking, Im not experienced enough to try it myself, so I prefer just sticking to any oc already done to a model.
OC on a GPU is one of the easiest things to do. If you absolutely refuse to try just get the higher clock card as long as it can maintain its boost clock.

Anyone here know this problem?

So I know how to build a computer but I'm an idiot when it comes to picking parts, looking for something fairly mid-high end and this is what I've come up with.

Pricing is CDN as well which is why it's higher.

>2. The CPU I want to OC to 4.2 Ghz which I heard is pretty doable for the 6600K, I took a Scythe Mugen 4 since I recon that should be enough to keep the CPU cool under load with such a mild OC.

why not a closed loop, they are great, not a meme at all, I have a 120mm one on my i5 6600k, it's been sitting at 4.5Ghz for just over a year now, was at 4.6 but had a few odd crashes

I can vouch this is a great cheap board with a lot of oc features
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132573
of course you can get a better one but that did everything I needed and supports the faster RAM, which some don't
only got rid of it because a maximus viii hero came up on my local buy sell facebook page, swapped him my board and $100 NZD, was a great deal

newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16811992005
Is this a good fan controller?

Is it just for gaming or also work? What kind of monitor will you be hooking this up to?

First build, all parts coming in Tuesday. Did I do alright? Looking to do Unity work and play games like WoW.

Are you me?

amazon.ca/HP-Pavilion-23bw-LED-Monitor/dp/B00EC47RYW

For current monitor, and for gaming.

Which 120mm system exactly do you use user?

Should I be doing 16gb or 32gb if I'm going to be using VMs on a daily basis?

That depends entirely on what you're doing with your VM's.

this, but I want a 240mm with white fans, because it would look nicer in my case..

why not a i5 6600k, it's like $30 difference, but then you have to buy a cooler I guess, do the non K cpus have stock coolers with them?

this, but I want a 240mm with white fans, because it would look nicer in my case..

why not a i5 6600k, it's like $30 difference, but then you have to buy a cooler I guess, do the non K cpus have stock coolers with them?

Performance tests for programs I've made. As well as a windows VM.

Ks dont come with coolers

Well.. that's rather vague. If your're going to use two VM's simultaneously i'd probably opt for 32GB, but then again, depens on what you're doing.

pcpartpicker.com/list/GykNzM

Mini-ITX HTPC build, trying to keep it under $300. Any glaring problems or tips? I need it to fit in a 13" x 13" x 15" shelf, so case size is important. I have an extra HDD to throw in, don't need to worry about peripherals or OS.

yeah I know, I was wondering if the non K cpus do, because that obviously ups the price difference a bit more than $30

Oh sorry ya the non K ones do. It's the main reason i got it plus im not looking to OC

Alright, well first of all the first thing is your PSU. 750w and platinum rated? You don't need that at all, your system will be drawing at most 400w so having 750 is over kill. Get something in the range of 550. Second, the platinum rating is not something you need as a gamer and really isn't what you think it means. Bronze and silver rating PSU's are fine.

You also don't need an i7 6700k, an i5 6600k will do just fine with some overclocking.

The ram I'd advise to go 3000 and get 2x8 instead of 1x16.

Lastly I'd recommend upgrading your screen. You are getting a 1070 GTX for a screen that can only handle 60 Hz and is kind of outdated.

What kind of temps does it give you at an OC of 4.5 under load?

Is there any advantage or disadvantage to getting two 4GB sticks instead of one 8GB stick?

I know you're not going to OC with a non-K CPU but I would've still recommended a custom cooler like a CM Hyper Evo 212, the stock Intel coolers really are fucking crap in my experience.

Nah, I have an external HDD (LaCie 1TB Porsche design) that does it's job for lower end games and media storage.

I'll get an SSD on cyber monday/Black friday and/or christmas/birthday.

EVGA, I already posted this, but the 24 pin power connector has a 1mm gap with the mobo connector.
People told me to either-
-file down the pins (Don't wanna ruin warranty)
-wiggle it back and forth while inserting (tried, actually harder to get them out when pressed in super hard then getting them in.)
-insert the +4 connector then the 20+ connector and vice versa.(tried that)
-EVGA support said it would be fine(doubtful)
-But a relative who's an engineer pointed out that the pins might not be touching each other (so that's why I'm back to getting a new PSU).

Pic related.

Why are you suggesting a Z170 motherboard. Literally any 1551 socket mobo will do. Get the cheapest one.

The upside is that dual channel is always better than single channel because it spreads the load. The downside is ofcourse that you use two slots and thus can only add 2 more 4GB sticks in the future.

Shit build for that monitor. Only if you're looking to upgrade your monitor to a 1440p or 1080p 144Hz should you get a 1070. You want a 6GB 1060 for 1080p 60Hz.

An i7 is overkill for gaming at any resolution. If you're actually going to OC get an i5 6600K. Otherwise just get an i5 6500.

Not bad but get a 240GB SSD and consider getting a cheaper mobo if you don't plan to buy an i7 6700K later.

32GB, RAM is cheap.

I'd go x2 4GB

x2 4GB (dual channel) allows the RAM to have twice the bandwidth from the CPU. If you're planning to add in more RAM soon (like a month or two) just get a single stick.

So have you tried booting the PC?

>1551 socket
Not if he's going to OC, tard.

Why are you getting a Z170 motherboard if you're getting a Skylake CPU that cannot be overclocked? Get a cheaper board that supports 1151, you only really go for a Z170 board because it is the only one that allows to overclock a K series processor.

Makes sense to me.

I can't see myself going higher than 16GB within this build's lifespan and it's got four slots so two sticks it is.

Thanks Anons.

What is the best operating system for gaming?

Should I just stick to Windows 7, despite it cycling out for hardware support soon? Is Windows 8 tolerable enough to upgrade to, or does it also share the same fate as 7 with less hardware support by the day? Or should I just embrace big brother with 10?

Go with Windows 10 and use the Ultimate Windows Tweaker tool to turn off all the spyware and automatic update crap.

Dual boot. Windows 10 for gaming, Windows 7 for everything else.

Obviously fucko but his budget is like $550 and the 6700k alone is maybe $400. He can squeeze a ~$50-70 110 board and a ~$50 inexpensive case that still looks good. OC boards are $100+. Not that he needs to OC it, though he can MAYBE do it if he goes with a shit case for $30 (cheap cougar) and puts the rest for a mobo. The i7-6700k at stock probably still outperforms everything else he can get with that budget for 3d modeling. The stock clock is pretty decent on the 6700k.

I have yet to boot the PC at the moment, schoolwork got in the way.

Plus, I'm not too sure if my system will fry or not, so that's a gamble.

His budget needs to change or he needs a locked i7. The turbo difference between the 6700 and the 6700K is 0.2GHz.

B150 + 6700 + cooler or Z170 + i7 6700K + cooler

>I'm not too sure if my system will fry or not
Doubt it, my guess is the worst that would happen is literally nothing, which means that you'd have to buy a new PSU.

max 55deg, depending on room temp, it's in my lounge so if I've got the fire going and gaming it will sit at 55, but it's usually 10-15deg higher than room temp

Windows 10 may not be too bad if I can grasp full control over it with this tool.

It pretty much lets you turn off everything in Windows 10 and the great thing is it's a utility that does not require any installation whatsoever, just download and click and it's good to go. Some AV's however see it as a trojan since it tweaks OS settings so be sure to mark it as an exception.

Im messing with it with Windows 7 right now and its pretty awesome. I think the goal would be to install Windows 10, update it to the latest version, then disable updates via UWT and disable all of the telementary/spyware stuff. This might actually convince me to use 10 in my next build if I can trust it enough.

This tool is the only reason I ever found upgrading to Windows 10 acceptable. So far I havent had any nasty surprises using it for the last 6 months.

Is this tool better or different than Shut Up Windows 10?

Is the turbo clock relevant for prolonged heavy loads? Isn't it just one core at a time than can do turbo that high? or all of them, but the 6700 clocks to 3.7ghz on all cores while the k variant stays 4ghz, about 10% higher. Guess it might not be that important, though amplified for 8 threads, I'm not so sure.

Just did some googling and it seems that the performance parity between the 6700 and 6700k is within 10% on Cinebench. Eh, I'd go with a B150 & 6700 with a stock cooler.

The main features like turning off the spyware and windows update are present in both tools but UWT also has additional options to customize windows 10 if you desire. Both are good at getting the spyware/update job done however.

Welp
Guess I'll plug it in as hard as I can and see how it goes tomorrow.

Wish me luck user's!

Should I make a Linux partition, or just buy a separate hard drive for it?

How's the Asus VG248QE for a 144 hz 1080p monitor?

Idk but look at logicalincrements, they also review monitors it seems or see if you find something on prad.de if you're german or want to take a look at the reviews summary.