/pcbg/ - PC Building General: rob tracy edition

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, please politely direct them here.

OLD THREAD:
>56875803

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/fVmpKZ
pcpartpicker.com/list/W83TM8
pcpartpicker.com/list/CXtDjc
pcpartpicker.com/list/CtCh7h
youtu.be/lN-4DDtB1VM
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/pMZpKZ
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/GXX6QV
nz.pcpartpicker.com/list/P2m9Cy
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/XbkYd6
pcpartpicker.com/list/
pcpartpicker.com/list/NKpPJV
pcpartpicker.com/list/KRg9Cy
pcpartpicker.com/list/d3sTM8
outervision.com/b/gkryuQ
pcpartpicker.com/list/CXp6QV
pcpartpicker.com/list/rs69Cy
ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/PvfmP6/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct480bx200ssd1
pcpartpicker.com/list/qK7Qd6
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/s3Qspb
pcpartpicker.com/list/2GD9Cy
amazon.ca/dp/B01DUNLMUU/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1
amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD68/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1
amazon.ca/dp/B01L80DH4G/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1
br.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5653#sp
asrock.com/mb/Intel/H110M-HDV/?cat=Specifications
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/8tPZcc
outervision.com/power-supply-calculator
wccftech.com/intel-core-i7-7700k-benchmarks/
pcpartpicker.com/list/Lp2v4C
pcpartpicker.com/product/Mb4gXL/noctua-case-fan-nff12industrialppc3000pwm
pcpartpicker.com/list/3jWgnn
pcpartpicker.com/list/cFr4pb
zotac.com/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1070-amp-edition#spec
palit.com/palit/vgapro.php?id=2629&lang=en&pn=NE51070S15P2-1041J&tab=sp
eu.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6276-KR
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/wpk2xY
uittek.com/pci-express-pcie-to-2-port-usb-30-host-control-card-w-20pin-usb30-connector-nec-chipset-with-solid-capacitors_p340.html
ebay.com/itm/2-Port-19Pin-USB-3-0-Card-PCI-e-to-PCI-Express-Internal-20Pin-Male-Ports-Adapter-/122023130199?hash=item1c69253457
twitter.com/AnonBabble

so I fucked up and placed an order with outletpc before reading about them and apparently they're really... disreputable

what's the chance that I'm gonna get fucked over? I ordered an i5-6500, a cooler master heatsink/fan, and a seagate barracuda hard drive

bump

Finished building my pc
cpu 6700k
gpu 1070
mobo asus z170 pro gaming
500gb ssd
noctua turd color fan
16gb of ddr4 ram
And now I don't even want to play games anymore

Everyone says that. Then they will be playing games within the next 3 months

Any good e-atx case?

Phanteks Enthoo Pro or Luxe

>disrreputable.

Huh, looks like I got lucky.
Ordered an i3-6100, came in the mail on time without a problem.

I know this feel.
Tell people that I have a pretty nice gaming pc. They ask me what I play and I tell them I don't play shit. I just browse the internet and watch Youtube.

Cool. So a dual processor motherboard will fit in this?

I'm not sure about the Pro, but the Luxe should without too much problem

what the fresh fuck

Thanks, I'm leaning towards the pro. Im prepared to drill some hole if needed.

Looking for case recommendations. Fill size tower big window. Black might be ok but interested in white to go with motherboard. Interested in a power source shroud or separate compartment but can go without.

Want to water cool and the room that goes with it the case doesn't have to be small plenty of room in the corner next to the desk.

Have a haf x now that is years old and getting bent up. Also will be keeping the computer it has in it now so new case. The haf x has plenty of room.

Looking at the corsair obsidian 900d and bee quiet base pro 900 with the white accent.

The dark base pro looks better especially with the silver stripe. Its got a wireless charger on top for my phone also.

The base has a nicer window and look from the side. The silver stripe goes with the deluxe 2 and it has a wireless charger on top.

But the 900d is larger and might be easier to use some good radiators with. The 900d also has a separate compartment on bottom for drives and psu.

Dont know which to get will keeping looking for a couple days.

A big advantage I just noticed for the be quiet case is what looks like a reversible motherboard that Points its windows towards me instead of the wall. Also moves the gpus to the top instead of the bottom which I like easier to reach without dragging it out. That would flip the IO access panel which I have to think about how I feel.

Also the 900d looks empty with a atx board in it think I dont like that.

According to PC Parts Picker my rig sucks around 550w. Is a 620w PSU OK or is more headroom advised?

I thought you were supposed to try and keep your power supply between 50-80% for its health of efficiency or something?

Is that still true?

Hey gonna be building my first rig and was wondering if the list I have is fine.
pcpartpicker.com/list/fVmpKZ
Will the PSU I chose be enough?

Got a bonus from work. Buying a new monitor and GPU.

>RX480 & LG 29UM67P 29.0" (21:9 1080p, 60Hz, freesync)
>GTX1070 & LG 29UM58-P 29.0" (21:9 1080p, 75Hz, no adaptive sync)

what do?

literially just get a windows 7 OEM key for 20 bucks on Kinguin.

Maybe you can get a cheap windows 10 key on there too.

>than ram/mobo combo

ram is 2400, but the mobo only supports 2133

>that case

literially not needed

there are many other fixes/other shits, but other user's can fix that.

1070 is better then the rx 480 greatly (except some titles *cough* dues ex)

Use this as a reference, this is a decent build.

pcpartpicker.com/list/W83TM8

You have a graphic card? You might want to check the card's recommended wattage. I know Pcpartpicker says my build only uses around 280w but my card recommends at least 400w

>keep your power supply between 50-80% for its health of efficiency or something?
That's where the peak efficiency rating of the PSU is (aka where it gets its 80+ certification). Stressing the PSU to beyond 90% (with cheaper PSUs, as low as 50%) can cause parts to fail from heat and wear.

So I ordered the mobo and case, and already have the GPU. Before diving in, someone mentioned getting a different CPU. Will I not be able to utilize overclocking with this board or something? The fan choice was due to the small form factor for the case.

pcpartpicker.com/list/CXtDjc

pcpartpicker.com/list/CtCh7h

should I go for it?

>soundcard
>1060
>additional case fans
>500Gb SSD

scrap that 960, soundcard, fan stuff and get a 1070
get a smaller SSD and HDD for mass storage

What's an ideal setup for someone who likes art? A smaller form factor and a large screen are preferred.

just use the stock cooler that comes with the CPU, using a AIO on an locked CPU is silly

Already got the graphics card when my last one failed, I really don't want to buy a new card already.

Also, pretty firm on the soundcard, I listen to bass-heavy music and the soundcard actually makes a noticeable difference in quality.

That being said, will a 1070 really make that big of a difference?

With the 1070 you'll get a constant 75fps minimum so free/gsync won't be necessary at all
And the 1070 is a lot better

If you care about your music you should already have an external DAC

What this guy said, Fiio e10k is a good start

DAC doesn't actually do anything aside from provide clarity - I can't amplify the volume of various frequencies to change how the sound sounds, it just makes it more clear - and I haven't had any issues with static so far, but I have had issues with mobo's not pushing the headphones or utilizing the magnets.

I basically want to be deaf by 30 and be able to feel the vibrations in my nether region.

What kinda performance can I expect with a GoyTax 1060 6gibble.

Can I do D44M on high settings at 1080p?

The point is that it's external, like you said it's not that difficult to make a decent digital-amped DAC, but the motherboard still has a lot going on electromagnetically, and noise reduction is the biggest advantage of external
Which basically means that a soundcard might be slightly better but really has no place between free convenient inboard sound and a good external box

Any dedicated DAC will have a stronger output than a soundcard, the headphones were made for DACs not PCs

Why wait till 30 when can just get an Amp and blow your eardrums in mere seconds?

And you need to get a hardware EQ (or a tiny USB mixer that has a DAC built in)
that's what you're missing

I can't argue the advantages of a DAC, just that having an exclusive soundcard negates the point of what the DAC does, from what I understand. I could get the DAC but it would mean that I'd be moving away from the card, and the Xonar line has great software attached with it - the mobo doesn't. If it means anything to you, the soundcard is one of the last purchases I'll be making, and I'm going to test the onboard audio solo first. I just have a healthy distrust of onboard sound. They did market this board with having superb sound quality but it's marketing so I have to check it myself. If I'm not satisfied, then sound card. If I'm content with the capabilities it offers for manipulation, then I'll definitely be picking a DAC up.

That being said, Fiio e10k is recommended I take it?

Definitely know that feel. I'm sitting in here shitposting instead of playing one of the literally hundreds of already downloaded games in my backlog.

m8, you don't know this feel.

PSU is plenty. If it's for gaming, personally I'd get the i5 6500. i7s are a waste unless you're encoding or rendering.

Personally if I were buying new I'd get the RX480 then wait til the new ultrawide monitors come out. I'm going to pick up a 29UM68 when I can for $150 used. Be advised that the Freesync range on that monitor is only like 40 - 60Hz, and the monitor doesn't qualify for Low Framerate Compensation (look it up).

If you're actually going to bother overclocking, nothing wrong with that CPU. (And yes you idiot, Z170 is literally for overclocking.) You could however get the i3 6100 and upgrade when you need to (next Intel CPUs will also be on 1151).

Don't bother with 1070 for 1080p 60Hz.

You're fine, just change the RAM to 3000 or 3200MHz.
Also you might want to sit on the stock cooler until you upgrade to an unlocked CPU later (I assume that's why you got the Z170)

Macbook Pro, homosex

Check benchmarks fagtron. But yes, you can.

I thought skylake does not work on win7? and yeah I will find a cheaper price for my OS.
Regarding the ram issue, the 2133 version of the ram I picked isn't available in my country. will there be a problem if I use a 2400 ram on a the mobo I picked? I thought it would just run fine and switch itself to 2133mhz.

I have researched a lot regarding cases and I decided on a mini itx one because of two reasons:
1. I will be attending lans with my friends
2. Can easily bring it around when I travel
I appreciate your suggestion and the list you posted but I also don't plan on overclocking.

What are you talking about
An external DAC is the same thing as a soundcard DAC but it accomplishes the whole purpose of having a separate DAC from the motherboard
The DAC isn't what is altering sound, that's on your software side and actually shouldn't be altering the sound at all (I hope you're using ASIO drivers or something to bypass the sound manipulation?)
An external DAC is an external soundcard with less interference and better output strength, and often some inputs too.

Guys, I have a 1080p/60hz monitor.

ASUS ROG STRIX OC RX 480 or EVGA SC 1060?

I just need a card that can last me a couple years.

Yes, that card is good for maxing games on that monitor

If you want more info on DAC/AMP, check /hpg/ for guidance. Last time I hang around there, e10k was still recommended.

How many years should one wait until building a new PC?

I built a pc back in 2011 that is still running almost every game nowdays at the highest settings. No upgrades at all since then.

I just feel an urge to build a new one for the fun of it but realistically wont because it would be a waste of money.

So how long do you think a one should take between completely new pc builds accounting for upgrades and such?

Clearly the RX480 if you're planning on playing new games
Old games 3GB 1060 will be fine.

>PSU is plenty. If it's for gaming, personally I'd get the i5 6500. i7s are a waste unless you're encoding or rendering.

The reason I picked the i7 is because I will be playing some CPU heavy games and I do not want to be held back by a i5. I watched comparisons on youtube for the games I plan to play (Arma3,GTAV) and it really makes a difference. I'm also planning on buying a 144hz monitor and an i7 will help me reach that fps.

Maybe build a home NAS meme if you don't have one?

Okay so what I'm saying is, I listen to bass-heavy music a lot and often (example: youtu.be/lN-4DDtB1VM ). With a DAC, it does not have the ability to boost the low frequency ranges exclusively like say 20-30 hz. It would boost the entire output.

Please correct me if I'm wrong and have been derping this entire time.

If you can't hear the low hz bass you're old or already deaf or something on your system isn't capable of that output.

And again, correct me if I'm wrong here.

>I built a pc back in 2011 that is still running almost every game nowdays at the highest settings
No you aren't, considering the Radeon 7000 series wasn't even out then. If your PC runs hot or loud (Fermi) then grab a new card to decrease power consumption and get the multitude of other benefits.

ARMA3 in particular relies on the single core performance, which means that an OC'd i5 6600K would be a good value for you. ARMA3 is not multithreaded well. Even an i3 6100 has better single core performance than a stock i7.

You're thinking of software EQ, which can be applied to any computer before the sound is converted through a DAC/soundcard (and in my opinion is trash 9/10 times, why you should get a real hardware EQ if you want to mess around with bass and treble casually)
A DAC and a soundcard do the same thing, nothing more. If it's being external it helps with background noise. You can get EQ software from anywhere

avin' a giggle m8
>3gb
Shoulda specified I'm choosing between the 8GB and 6GB specifically.

Alright, any recommendations on a real hardware EQ/DAC to get set up with? As I said, the soundcard is the last purchase along with the case lighting, so I haven't dropped anything on that yet.

No I'm being serious
Just pick one, you find exactly as many good and bad reasons to get either card

You don't need the 6GB for old games. That was my point.

>i3-6100 beating out i7
Whats the case of a i5-6500 in all of this?
I too, am making a PC for arma 3, and this seems interesting, as jet.com also has a i5-6500 at 167 with the TRIPLE15 code.

DAC converts digital data to analog output, It is Amp(lifier) that actually boost frequency. As long as the DAC/AMP aren't shit and have no sub-bass rolloff you are good to go, the rest you can just crank the bass up with equalizer.

Well I'm using an $80 Yamaha USB mixer so it's both EQ and a DAC and high output enough for any headphones. But in the past I've used cheap alesis audio interfaces (DACs with inputs and preamps for recording) and they're great. Dedicated DACs can start at mini sized Fiio trinkets and move up to $100, $200+ boxes really quick
I'm just saying if you're gonna spend money on a soundcard, at least spend money on an external one instead

what? so the i3 performs better on arma 3 than an i7? the fuck? is there a vid of this?

Personally I'd suggest the i3 6100 because it has a higher base clockspeed than the i5 6500's turbo clockspeed.

Not that I know of

New to PC building and have always used a laptop.
I don't really do much of anything apart from torrenting, shitposting and watching chinese cartoons. Pretty sure the only intensive tasks I do is some light image editing and converting flacs to lossy files, which I do quite often. I don't game apart from osu a few times a week, so I guess I don't need a GPU.
Not really restricted to any budget but considering what I normally do on my laptop, I just want to build one PC for the foreseeable future until a component shits the bed or something.
I guess looking nice is also a factor but not important. The smaller size of mini ITX is appealing to me.

How's this?
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/pMZpKZ
I'm also wondering whether or not to get an i7 just because I'm not gonna upgrade any time soon.

How does one actually learn to build pcs properly?

Like I've built about 5 of them by now, with years between them, but it always turns into me looking for help and asking people if they think the build is ok

Is there anything to it besides checking specs and comparing stuff?

If the application relies on single-core performance then it is possible for 2-core processor to beat an 8-core one if it has higher clockspeeds.

That case is pretty high-end for your needs, but if you like the way it looks then that's okay. Also you might want to spend 20-40 dollars on a CPU cooler, the stock coolers are quite loud. Otherwise it looks pretty good. Don't bother with i7, that processor is more than enough for you. It is far more effective to save that money for future upgrades.

That is building PCs properly, cable management and the like is just fluff. Last build I did, I got everything out and plugged it in based on where it looked like it should go, only thing I used the manual for was the front USB and Audio. I rushed through everything and it only took 40 minutes. I don't understand how people take more than an hour to actually build a PC.

>If the application relies on single-core performance then it is possible for 2-core processor to beat an 8-core one if it has higher clockspeeds.
True but of course IPC also matters. That's why the FX CPUs can't keep up in a game like ARMA3

Don't get a 1.5 or 3TB drive, they fail

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/GXX6QV

The only question I have with this build I'm planning is the power supply. I intend to use the PC for playing modern games at 1080p. Will this 650W power supply get the job done? I have no plans to overclock or add another graphics card.

I feel like for what you need, you can get away with a cheaper mobo, case and psu. Even cheaper cpu and ram should work (albeit a bit slower but this isn't video gaming where gimped performance actually matters).
If I was you I would be fine even with a $400 build, but I'm only speaking for myself.

Where do you guys sell your old parts at?

I'm going to part out my old rig and no one around here uses craigslist.

What do?

>That case is pretty high-end for your needs, but if you like the way it looks then that's okay.
That window was the main reason. Read that it was pretty good for things like cable management and stuff.

>Also you might want to spend 20-40 dollars on a CPU cooler, the stock coolers are quite loud.
I'll get the 212 EVO then.

>Don't bother with i7
Okay.

>Don't get a 1.5 or 3TB drive, they fail
2x2TB fine?

I'm perfectly fine with spending as it's pretty much the only build I will have for like 7 years, to pick an arbitrary number.

So I've got all but the GPU to buy. Build here: nz.pcpartpicker.com/list/P2m9Cy

I'm planning on falling for the VR meme pretty hard. (Elite Dangerous with a joystick and headset sold me on it, I'm well aware it's a contentious point around here and I'm not going to change my mind on it.)

Which GPU would be better for VR in the long run? Also I play plebshit AAA games and I want them to look good.

Also I'd like to point out that the H100i v2 does not fit in the 250d without slim fans or some nig-rigging (I did the latter). Corsair support said that it would fit, so I bought the parts. Would I be able to contact Corsair and get some compensation, seeing as how their CS team effectively lied to me and I wasted my money.

What's your VR system going to be? Oculus, HTC, google cardboard?

Also, if you haven't played it already, Elite Dangerous really sucks as a game from what I've experienced. I think it lasted three hours of me trying my hardest to like it only to uninstall it after those 3 hours. Probably my only buyer's remorse vidya gaem this year.

If you only have one graphics card then 500W is enough, it'll only use around 400W at most. But if you care about zero RPM mode or want some head room just to be sure then 650W is not a bad purhase.

I'm personally not a fan of windowed cases, they tend to look pretty ugly unless you're willing to sink money into LEDs and colour-matching parts. But that's just my opinion.

If you buy two 2TB drives you could set them in RAID 0 mode. That'll theoretically double their speed and have them appear as single drive for windows.

Check out a local college or something, put a flyer up saying you're selling something.

Thinking of getting a 1070, will my i5 3750k be a bottleneck?

HTC. Seems like the most fully fledged system what with the Rift still not having controllers, and I also don't want to support Zuck/Facebook.

It satisfies my need to fly spaceships and it's to tide me until Star Citizen

Nah, it's fine.

>2x2TB fine
Yep. HGST

If you have to buy a graphics card right now I'd say the 1070 for VR.

No. You probably don't need a 1070

You honestly might want to check for rumors about the launch of the next gen HMDs. Better res, higher FOV, eyetracking, and wireless.

That's why I bought it, but I left feeling disappointed.

Regardless, SC is taking it's sweet time. For the amount of time they've been working on it, the game runs like shit and has very little content for how long it's been.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/XbkYd6

Still deciding on the case. Will I get memed by chink SSDs? Also is the ram good?

is pcRush a good seller?

Fuck, so this isn't happening to me only? Is this a curse of gaming PCs?

It's just like being a guitar player, spending $3000 on a nice Les Paul and just plinking out shitty Zep covers in your bedroom.

Posted in another thread earlier, but this is my current design - I'm looking to get most of it for Christmas. It's going to be a high-intensity gaming rig

>Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz
>MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
>Kingston HyperX Fury Blue 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866
>Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
>MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Video Card
>Apevia X-Trooper (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case (pic related)
>Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer

Any suggestions for a CPU cooler (bare in mind I'll be overclocking) and the best size for a 4K monitor?

Some have suggested getting an SSD purely for the OS, seeing as I'm paying a bomb already as well as getting a 6700k CPU instead to make it future proof. Also, I know the case is ugly as fuck, I'll probably end up changing it.

pcpartpicker.com/list/
1k budget pc for 1080p gaming.
Z170 for oc

Since you posted best girl I'll forgive you for fucking up the link. Just try again

>pcpartpicker.com/list/NKpPJV
>1k budget pc for 1080p gaming.
>Z170 for oc

I ordered some parts from them on my last build two months ago, I don't remember what parts but everything came fine. I had no idea they had a reputation for fucking shit up though

Think I could hardline in a cooler master elite 110?
Anyway, it's done.
Athlon 5350
8gb hyperx blue ddr3
ECS Kam1-I motherboard
Zotac 750ti
Single AData SP550 120gb SSD
Apvexia 450w PSU

The Athlon maxes at 21c, idle it's room temp, on passive cooling
I have a single 120mm silent wings on quiet mode used for intake, and another inside the PSU for exhaust
The entire build makes next to no noise, 720p Minecraft didn't even tax the 750ti enough where the fan rpm needed to go up, just stayed on idle rpm

S'all gud nigga

After some advice from the previous thread and looking at some real world benchmarks, I've made some changes to my server build: pcpartpicker.com/list/KRg9Cy
I switched from the i3 6320 to the i5 6500, and from 2400 Hz RAM to 3000Hz.
I'm still curious though, are the WD Reds just a meme I'm falling for? Are there better options for HDDs that will be running 24/7?

Is the Corsair 900D a meme case?

Should I bother OCing in a p8z77-v lx? I have never overclocked my i5 3750k because I mostly played shit like DotA 2-

I'm gonna upgrade from a EVGA 660 ti to a MSI 470 because my GPU fan is already dying and I'm not gonna play beyond 1080 res.

I am thinking of getting a new laptop and while I am at it I might get a new graphics card for my desktop.
>i7-2600k
>Nvidia 560 ti
>16 GB RAM
Are my current specs. Gotta check the PSU though. I mainly use the PC to shitpost on Cred Forums and do stuff for university but from time to time I still play stuff.
Any recommendations for Nvidia cards that aren't horribly expensive ? Is there anything else I might need ? PC is about 5 years old.

Senpais,is this shit gonna work or do you think it needs improvements?Any way I can improve it?Up to 2000$ budget.I want to play my vidya at a stable 100 fps at 1440 at max settings~

pcpartpicker.com/list/d3sTM8
Forgot the link.

1070 is what I'll probably get, 1080s are too scare at the moment. Haven't heard about the 2nd gen VR sets, do you have any info?

yes, buy it anyway

Why, is it that good? Everything I hear about it is how shitty it is.

Are there any other cases that offer a similar aesthetic (big window, exposed side fans, no faggot shit) without being as expensive or as massive?

>big window, exposed side fans, no faggot shit
2/3 of those are in FD cases

How do you define "horribly expensive"? I'd suggest a GTX 970 4GB or GTX 960 4gb if you are skittish.

I really haven't looked at the prices for a long time and I was a bit surprised. I am willing to spend up to 300 bucks.
The 970 is one of my favourites,too. What about the 1060 1G ? I have seen one for 250€.

I just gotta check if it works fine with my PSU and motherboard.

These are the results I got in the Outervision PSU calculator: outervision.com/b/gkryuQ

With my overclocks and peripherals and shit it sucks 548w and they recommend I get a 600w PSU for it. Their recommended model is an EVGA Supernova G1 650w. Would I be fine getting a 620w Seasonic instead? Specifically the M12II. I don't like that they say I need 600w and then recommend a 650w model, it makes me neurotic and paranoid.

>midnight, cannot sleep at all even though I need to wake up early
>decide to start putting together new PC
>it's fine, I'll just hook up the most basic parts and go to bed
>5 hours later, have a complete PC with neatly tied wiring, and not a wink of sleep

It's worth it. I just assembled my 2000$ PC to finally be able to watch anime in 1080p.

Welp, I just ordered the last part.

How badly did I fuck up, /pcbg/?

pcpartpicker.com/list/CXp6QV

Congratulations, you have a monster computer.

Pls help me I'm losing my mind here.

>620w Seasonic instead?
You'll be fine faggot.

What anime?

Pic related or the anime I am planning to watch ?

Even $200 chinkphones can play anime at 1080p nowadays unless it's some ridiculously bloated encode like Coalgirls.

It was just a joke :^)

I don't think that Akari-chan needs more than 4 cores

>200$ chinkphones
Redmi 4 with SD625 will cost about 99$ in chinkland, so make that about 130-150$ everywhere else.

So around when will prices go down?

How does my virtualization box look?
pcpartpicker.com/list/rs69Cy

Really need some direction on this ASAP

Autism / 10

Add more LEDs.

Is the i5 just a meme? Or is i3 the meme?

Four genuine cores beats four virtualized ones any day of the week. But if you're poor, an i3 will do you just fine.

i7 is meme, i3 is fine for light use and i5 for gayming and other more taxing stuff.

>I'd recommend SSD, it is a massive improvements to computer ux. No point in blowing that much money and then skimping on such a vital component
>You should add mores LEDs, the case is not obnoxius enough
>1080 is pointless if you're not going 4k or at least 1440p over 60fps
>Are you really sure you need a dvd drive?
>fast i5 would be good enough for gayming, i7 doesn't make much of a difference

He knows nothing, John snow.

Calm the fuck down bitch and just get 600 watts.

when the fuck is AM4 and bristol ridge coming out I need to spend money and scratch that goyim itch reee reee

Jews

AM4 is cancelled, not enough pins for not enough coars
We AM4+ nao

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/XbkYd6

Am I going to get memed by the chink SSD? Also is this ram good?

You can get a Samsung 500GB SSD on Amazon for less than that price.

Canadian dollars though?

Remember our currency got nuked and weedman has done nothing for the past year. $1050 cad is $800 freedom

Hey /pcbg/

My computer is starting to run games poorly and I'm thinking of upgrading the processor/graphics card but can't help thinking if I should buy an entirely new setup. Really don't want to spend, but don't want to wind up with a bottleneck either.

Currently running: M4A78T-E Mobo
One SSD for OS/Programs, 2HDD storage
AMD Athlon II X4 630
Geforce GT 440
650W PSU (Can't remember brand, definitely not unbranded)
8GB Ram, don't remember specifics

I'm only looking to swap out my processor/graphics card to:
GeForce GTX 950
However I'm stuck on the processor since my Mobo only support AM3 and not AM3+ and it looks like I can't upgrade much higher than what my current processor performs at.

Am I stuck buying a new rig?

>KingDian 150 canuck dollaros
Get KEKED m8.

My bad, didn't notice the "ca" in the link.

Have you done a clean reinstall yet? Always nuke and pave when Wintendo slows down.

>ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/XbkYd6
Get an i5-6600K, stop falling for the i7 meme.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/PvfmP6/crucial-internal-hard-drive-ct480bx200ssd1
Best value 480GB SSD available in Leafland, at least according to leafpicker.canuck

Windows is running fine, running most modern games on low graphics options/resolution is what's bothering me.

Get a cheap

AM4 is coming next year for non-OEM market.

New graphics card alone will give you a nice boost, so you can try that if you're short on money. But you'll have to replace that processor eventually too, and that means buying a new mobo, ram and cpu cooler. You can use the case, psu and/or drives in your new build if you want to.

Im looking for a build with a really small tower but that will run word/excel/internet comfortably, with the occasional 1080 movie. Suggestions?

An Intel Pentium J3710 mini ITX board inside a MiniBox VESA-mountable case.

But I want to join the i7 club my lads. Is it really a meme? I'm going to be doing mostly software development not gaming. Going to run a couple low spec vms at least. Was debating falling for the 32gb meme.

Nice. You're right. That's cheap compared to the $210 850 evos.

Yeah, buy a laptop.

A laptop would serve you best. Get a used chinkpad or latitude if you're short on money.

In that case yes go for the i7, but maybe get a better custom cooler.

mITX case and mobo, i3 CPU, 8gb of ram, ssd and a psu. That'll be all you need. Or just get a laptop.

You'll need very well multithreaded, processor intensive applications or else you wont see any difference at all. Seems like it'd be worth it in your use though.

You could consider an AIO watercooler or more beefier air cooler.

pcpartpicker.com/list/qK7Qd6
I never turn mine off since it doesn't make a sound and sips power when idle.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/s3Qspb

for gf, she wants me to fix her current computer but I know she desperately needs a new one. Basic movie watching/internet browsing. what do i ditch

>Basic movie watching/internet browsing
Really.. anything will do, you don't even need an i3 for that.

What's up with that 500gb HDD? I'd rather spend that money on bigger SSD and/or skip it now and add a 2TB drive when you've saved more money. Otherwise it looks pretty good.

hmm i see, thanks
yeah that was my first thought I'm not even sure why i added the hdd in

>ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/s3Qspb
Nigga, you could use the same build as this

What would you recommend? I was thinking of putting this inside a small itx case. I need it to be small because I was planning to carry this thing around with me when I go home every week.

The only cases I could find that could fit a cooler while being small enough were the ncase m1 and the Dan a4. Everything else is too small or too big for me. Though they both are expensive crowdfunded 'gaming' cases I'm willing to get them just so I can have a portable system.

Would the ncase m1 be good if I wanted to get an aio watercooler? Say maybe the corsair h100i v2?

Help me upgrade to a PC for Dota
My budget is heavily limited, which is further amplified by the fact that prices of hardware here are fucking ridiculous. Taking that into account, I have about $200-230 to spare.

I currently have a shitty athlon, a shitty motherboard, 3gb of DDR2 ram and a HD Radeon 5700. I definitely need a new motherboard and more ram.

I have a build ready (gigabyte H110M, i3-6100 and a single stick of DDR4 8gb) but that leaves out the lackluster card. I don't want to spend money only to find out that I got like 20 fps more. What do you guys recommend?

What's the recommended course of action, lads?

I want to start pushing new games again.

You might be a candidate for an A10-7860K and an A68M or A78 motherboard. No need for a graphics card and you can still get decent 720p-high or 1080p-medium performance.

Quality custom cooler
Gtx 1070

Start overclocking. You will get good performance.

>200-300$ budget
You won't get far with this and drop that i3-6100 it's way out of your budget.

>I'd recommend SSD, it is a massive improvements to computer ux. No point in blowing that much money and then skimping on such a vital component
>You should add mores LEDs, the case is not obnoxius enough
>1080 is pointless if you're not going 4k or at least 1440p over 60fps

I get the feeling you're not being serious.

What your graphics card recommends doesn't really have anything to do with anything. It's basically the absolute worst case scenario, not what you actually need for that system.

You could fit a Corsair H80i in the Ncase M1. A H100i might be too tight of a fit for those cases.

What's up with your RAM clock speed?

I second going the A10 route.

It's a nifty option for a select few but it will save you quite a few dollarydoos.

Why? Everything he said is valid, even aiming for maximum obnoxious is good for repelling undesirable female attention

Cred ForumsENTS!

24 Pin user here, I managed to get it pressed down enough that it's clipped in!

Now getting it out, I'll have to remove the motherboard for that part, but for the most part, my build is baseline done-Just need to buy my 1060 and that's it for the hardware!

Now the problem I'm facing is whether I should get Win 10 and install Ultimate Windows Tweaker 4 or search the net for a Win 7 Professional and install that instead.

The bit about LEDs was a joke, everything else was serious. 1070 and 1080 will not have any difference in 1080@60hz, you'll be refresh rate capped with both cards and SSD will make your computer feel much better to use. Shortening boot times to a few secound and having programs lauch instantly is such an amazing thing, once you experience that you'll never want to return back to mechanical drives.

That's normal for ~1300mhz DDR3 memory. Not intentional of course.

Had a laptop handed down with a gtx 660m and a 2.4 GHz i7-3630QM. The monitor went out, and it looks to be absolute balls to fix. If I fuck it up what am I looking at for a equivalent/slight upgrade to a desktop. No plans to overclock, no problem with fan noise or a cheap ugly case.

Probably an i5-6500 with an RX-460 or GTX 1050. If the CPU's not that important, an i3-6100 will do.

Win 7 professional,always!

Is it really worth getting a watercooler for $110 instead of a $40 air cooler?

Gamble on an i5 for 167 bucks at Jet.com with the code TRIPLE15.

Get about 30 bucks off or so, then the RX-460 can be the 90 buck one from Power Color on Newegg.

So Cred Forums,which 1440p 144hz IPS meme monitor is better?Asus or Acer's?

Windows 10 home is basically free and a lot easier to install
You've already missed your chance to leave the botnet years ago btw

I built my PC 4 years ago, it was my first, and I definitely could have made some better decisions. Here's what I've got

>Corsair 650D
>GTX680
>Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB
>Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge Quad-Core 3.4GHz
>8GB RAM
>SeaSonic SS-750KM3 750W
>GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H LGA 1155
>SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series 2.5" 128GB
>2 Dell UltraSharp U2412M

I used to play a lot of games, now I spend most of my time painting in photoshop. Let's say I had a 800 bucks to sink into this thing, is there anything I should be looking for? I might sell one of the ultrasharps for a larger one.

Upgrade the CPU and Motherboard to a Skylake i5, which will set you back about $400. Another $75 on DDR4 RAM.
Use another $275 for an RX 480 or GTX 1060.

Asus is discount chink shit at a premium price, never choose Asus

Get another 8GB RAM, SSD or HDD, but that's it. Don't sink 800 into a 4 year old PC.
Spend 100-200$ if you need mentioned above, but otherwise save for a new PC in 2-3 years.

Thanks a lot, you said gamble, are there a lot of issues with Jet?

Do you really need the extra juice? That computer seems okay for what you're using it for. You could try to make it less loud by replacing loud fans with quieter ones.

Not really, AIO is more of a meme thing than a real upgrade. Good air coolers are actually better than low-end water coolers. If you're overclocking then it's a different story, air cooling will hit it's cap sooner than water cooling.

That's the first time I've heard about them being disreputable.

I'll stick to the air cooler then. I feel like transporting a machine with liquid in it often would be a risky thing.

I always thought of SSD as meme-tier though. I agree about the 4K, I want to get a 4K monitor anyway but I heard they have a flow rate problem so I need to do more research.

What are some good, small cases? I want to make my next build smaller. I don't need a massive tower anymore.

SO i bought a igabyte GA-H110M-A LGA1151 Intel H110 Micro ATX and have gone through two cases that did not have the proper mounting spots to screw this bitch in. BitFenix Computer Case BFC-NEO-100-WWWKP-RP White and Purple would this case work or am i going to get screwed again.

pcpartpicker.com/list/2GD9Cy

From the reviews I've read, jet can be either a hit or "Miss so bad you wonder how it's possible" kind of deal.

They're owned by walmart now, but like I said, just check for reviews/twitter posts.

>twitter
Shit, I meant reddit.
Also, got my PC to boot up now. Lets see if I can get linux mint to run from my USB drive...

ITX or mATX?

wat. The screw positions are standardised across mATX cases. You might have to attach extra standoffs but it should fit in without any issues.

thats why im confused. what happens is what doesn't fit. where the slots go in the panel they board can't be screwed in and the screw spots don't align any way

I think you're fucking up something somewhere, the IO panel is part of the standard too. But that bitfenix case should work just fine.

i figured i was. should be here in a day find out soon enough........

When I turn on the PC, it starts and seems to run constantly but apparently does nothing because my monitor doesn't show anything. Did I forget to connect something or connect something in the wrong place? Would be nice to know before I take this whole thing apart again.

You did plug the video cable into the GPU and not mobo connectors, right?

You connected your video output to the motherboard and/or forgot to set the PCIe VGA as the primary video output, didn't you cuckwad?

Need help with Windows 7 Ultimate activation. Pirated copy ofc.

Tried both the mobo connectors and GPU.

I don't have a VGA cable, and even if I did my monitor doesn't have VGA compatability. Using HDMI and tried mDP too.

Connections inside look fine, just check if they are properly all the way in, try reseating the gpu.

not a VGA cable, VGA as in video graphics adapter card (aka your graphics card)

Screen stay completely blank, not even posting or beeping?

Best freesync 1080p 144hz screens? At least which brands should I go for/avoid?

>try reseating the gpu.
Just tried that. No luck.

Zero signal at all from the start.

Try different RAM slots and read the manual on supported RAM etc.

God dammit, forgot to plug the GPU back in to its power supply after reseating it. Works like a charm and I'm installing my OS now, thanks /pcbg/.

Help me decide before this deal goes past, gonna order it today hopefully. Canadian prices.

>Crucial MX300 2.5 Inch 750 gb SSD $220 + Free Shipping
amazon.ca/dp/B01DUNLMUU/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1

>Crucial MX300 2.5 Inch 525gb SSD $155 + Free shipping
amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD68/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1

>Crucial MX300 2.5 Inch 525 M.2 SSD $150 + $15 shipping
amazon.ca/dp/B01L80DH4G/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1

Is it worth getting a a $165 CAD M.2 SSD? That's a really low price from what I gather when looking at prices on pcpartpicker. Are these SSDs any good? Has anyone had issues with Crucial? Going to be using it as possibly my boot drive.

Which one?

Gigabyte H110M-H (DDR4 edition)
br.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5653#sp

ASRock H110M-HDV
asrock.com/mb/Intel/H110M-HDV/?cat=Specifications

>br
HUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHEUHEUHEUHEUHUEHEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUEHUE
El Gigabyte es numero uno!

What processor? I usually like gigabyte more than asrock

⭐ Cred Forums pass user since November 2002

At that price I can almost guarantee that the M2 drive is a SATA M2 not a NVMe M2. Which basically means it's just a regular SSD but without cables.
You want NVMe M2 if you're looking for memespeeds
That being said a 525GB SSD for $150 isn't crazy, I'm not 100% on Canadian dollars but those crucial drives are also on sale on newegg in America for like $60 burgerbucks for the 250GB

>What processor?
i3-6100
>I usually like gigabyte more than asrock
Yeah I'm kinda leaning to the gigabyte too, the ASRock is It's going to be the third mobo of my life, the first as an ASUS that died in one year, the current one is a 8 year old Gigabyte.

People like you are the reason we're not welcome on the internet.

*Yeah I'm kinda leaning to the gigabyte too, It's going to be the third mobo of my life, the first as an ASUS that died in one year, the current one is a 8 year old Gigabyte.

To bring my PC up to date, do I need anything else than a new GPU? Considering a 1060, 1070 or 480.

Pic related

AYAYAYAYAYAY
Feel free leave, internet es numero uno!

Just GPU is ok.

Get an used locked i7 or a brand new unlocked i5/i7 if you want more power. I think that board allows OCing.

$155 CAD is $118 USD
So with Free shipping I think its a good deal.

Do ramsticks actually need those ugly as hell plastic gaymer things on top of them? Thinking of taking mine off

Gigabyte is the good choice then.

>compiling large projects I work on
>multiple virtual machines
>speedup in well threaded applications
Even >muh games finally start to utilize more threads now
Just to name a few widespread examples.

No.
You can do that.

⭐ Cred Forums pass user since November 2002

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/8tPZcc

How's this for my first build?
Any obvious mistakes?
Any changes I should make?

Are SSHDs worth getting? I don't know the first thing about them so I have no idea if they're shit or not, but it would be nice if I could clear up some of the drive bays in my case.

I installed a new hdd into my computer, but ever since then its had problems booting up. I reset the cmos to reset my cpu OC settings to stock which seemed to fix the problem. Is it possible my PSU doesn't have enough power now that the new hdd is installed?

It's... A deal.
In comparison I just bought a cheapo 120GB SSD for $45 USD and my Intel M2 NVMe 512GB was $180

Check and see:

outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

Hybrid drives?
No they're trash reliability and the worst of both worlds

they're called heatspreaders, they're there if you ever want to overvolt your memory for OCing.

Made a similar build for some user the other day, it's perfect.

>Heat spreaders
>Ugly

Maybe if you get some gay gaudy shit, but simple black looks fantastic.

load wattage said around 466 watts, my psu is that 500 watt evga 80 plus white. i guess it was near its limit? idk

>Implying Windows 7 isn't full of spyware
At least in Windows 10 you can turn it off with UWT4.

Cool, thanks for the info.

That's not how it works user with RAM user, you need to get a single 4x kit. You can't get 2 2x kits because you won't be able to enable the 3000 speed in the XMP, that's because despite being the same series and brand there are slight variations between RAM batches and the system senses that and will lock out the XMP profiles.

Should I just wait for the new kaby lake lineup and get the i3-6100?

Main intention is gaming rig, with maybe music and/or TS running at the same time.

Would the i3-6100 see any performance in gayman' going from an AMD FX-8350?

Or should I just pick the i5-6600k and OC it and call it a day?

I'm going to be buying tonight and really need a professional opinion.

When your that fucking close to your limit you need to start checking specifically which voltage outputs are rated to which wattage because a "500w" PSU might only deliver 400w through 12v and might have 100w as 5v PCIe device only
You should've gotten an overkill PSU it's the exact same money, you apparently just got memed

Kaby Lake isn't really worth waiting for. It'll just be skylake with higher clocks.

>professional opinion
>boards.Cred Forums.org/g/

eh it was 30 dollars and was by a recognized brand so it doesnt seem like i was losing much. i'll just run my cpu at stock voltage this time and remove some case fans that arent really doing anything.

Don't buy it. Crucial MX300 series is a shit. The write speed goes down significantly after a while. There's a reason it's on sale user and that's because noone is buying the crap. Crucial hasn't produced a good SSD since their MX100 series. Get a Samsung 850.

Pretty decent, only thing I'd change is swapping the 1x8GB stick for 2x4GB. Dual channel RAM is always better than single channel.

Name one company that does that
all of the ones i see are ugly as sin

>Crucial MX300 series is a shit
Not him but got proof on that? Thought about getting some cheap new SSD for my laptop.

what should I use as a boot drive? I'm going to be running either Arch or Debian and a Windows VM inside that often

OCZ (the toshiba bought one) doesn't have a lot of pissed off customers

>replace 7 year old seagate barracuda with 21 bad sectors with a 1tb WD blue
>read/write speeds are almost doubled
woah...

Kingston.

Yeah they've got some gaymer bumpy shit going on but since the sticks are black you can't really see it and they look good in a mobo.

What exactly are you expecting from Kaby Lake? Because I can tell you besides being a bit faster and probably using less power it won't be worth the wait. Just get a 6600K and OC the bitch.

What fucking prove just check the specs. It usses an SLC cache system which writes at 480 mb/s untill it hits 30 GB then the speed drops to 260 mb/s, why the fuck bother buying an SSD if it drops to such gay ass low speeds? The MX300 literally, Cuck: The SSD.

But this
wccftech.com/intel-core-i7-7700k-benchmarks/
Bretty gud breh.

Top answer mate..

Unless you're trying for really high FPS, the 8350 is fine. DX12 games especially will lighten load on the CPU. Also note that consoles have eight underpowered cores / eight threads, kinda like the 8350.

Personally I'd wait, no telling what Zen will do to the market. My guess however is that the i5 6600K and the i5 7600K will have the same OC potential, possibly a bit more for the 7600K.

>not buying HGST

>120GB SSD for $45 USD
Why the fuck would you do that, considering a 250GB is $60?

Bump the SSD up to 250GB

You're only at 1080p 60Hz, so get either the 480 or 1060 depend on whether you're playing new or old games, respectively.

The i5 is clocked a little low, but considering you can OC on that board just get an unlocked i7 and a cooler in a year or two.

They corrected that story or something, also
>currytech

Don't post it.

G skill NT series
But seriously, if you care about saving $5 on a random sale (which drops gaudy gaymen shit to below plain pcb ram prices), or about speed (which is generally a meme but at least it's real improvement), you're gonna have to deal with dumb heat spreaders
So just don't care. Mine is in my case, with no window, at 3200mhz and it looks dumb as fuck but who really cares? I'm not trying to impress people with my shopper-sense of avoiding gaudy ram

I saw the $60 250GB ones too, but I'm buying this cheapo SSD to put into my laptop and sell.
My laptop currently has an Intel 730 (I think, the one with the skull on it), and it's great. Was gonna get one for my desktop but the price of 730's has fucking skyrocketed since I bought mine so I'll just swap out my laptop

In a fresh instal i just download windows 10 iso into usb and then get a key from like ebay to activate it?

Yeah you can pretty much get a key for 15 bucks on Ebay.

>2016
>paying for software

Okay then next question, what's the performance hit I'll be expecting to see if using a i3-6100 vs an i5-6600k in terms of gayman'?

Will the 6100 provide a noticeable upgrade from the 8350, and will the 6600k provide a noticeable upgrade from the 6100?

Or just don't activate it. All you lose is the most basic theme customization.
As much as I'd love to have a Windows XP skin it's not worth actually buying Windows for

Moving to a desktop after using a laptop for the last five years. Planning to dual boot with Arch/Win 7, for my college shit/games. How'd I do?

pcpartpicker.com/list/Lp2v4C

rly ? its safe ?

How do these not require a molex connection like every other fan with performance similar to this one?

pcpartpicker.com/product/Mb4gXL/noctua-case-fan-nff12industrialppc3000pwm

>Will the 6100 provide a noticeable upgrade from the 8350
No, possibly slight.

>will the 6600k provide a noticeable upgrade from the 6100
Only if you OC it to 4.GHz

Get a 250GB SSD
Do you really need a Z170 mobo? If not get B150 or H170
If you stick with the Z170 get 3000MHz RAM
Break RAM up into x2 4GB unless you're adding another stick in a month
PSU is overkill, 500W is plenty

>Upgrade PC with 1070, more RAM, new SSD.
>mostly play 2D games and emulators

>Only if you OC it to 4.GHz
Meant 4.5GHz

Is there any way for me to get a good render + gaming pc which i can carry. Right now using a asus rog 750jz and this shit is heavy. Thinkin even a mini atx would be lighter. I also considered razer stealth + core kinda kombo but not sure. Thing about weight is i am a student and i want to be able to go to class and laugh at mac fags while they cant torrent 10k$ programs our shitty school wont supply (even assitants use torrented) and play games

You could do that, but you can also just use microsoft Toolkit to activate. Make sure to get the Pro version

It is as long as you arent an idiot. Only buy keys from big sellers, guys who sell large amounts a month but still have >98% ratings. Those keys are legit and safe. Don't buy keys from some vague Asian fuck with no rating.

>Will I notice a difference between a locked CPU with only 2 cores and 3 mb cache and a CPU with 4 cores, 6 mb cache and serious overclock potential
I don't know Sherlock, you tell me?

>2x4GB
>only the minimum amount of ram with only half the upgrade space

Why? so I have half a terabyte of possible ram instead of a quarter terabyte of possible ram?

i3 6100 is 118, i5 6600k is 238.

Is it worth the 114 extra doll hairs?

Where can I buy a LGA1150 Z97/87 mITX board in Canada? Everything is out of stock or costs 600$

>server chipset platform
>mini ITX
Yeah good luck

Nice ill take a look.

Also should i take a Intel Core i5-3470+mobo for 120€ since i own phenom II x6 1090t.
Im planning to buy a 480 8go soon, im tired of my phenom, that shit cant play insurgency, and i must on/off something when i want to play Vermintide or Red Orchestra 2.

I just need something mITX that will work with my 4670K :(

pcpartpicker.com/list/3jWgnn
Looking better?

Swapped mobo to ASRock H170A-X1 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
On a budget so not bumping ssd.
Dropped ram to 2x4gb 2133, if I read it right motherboard only supports 2133

>z97
>server chipset
wew

how much can I OC an i7-6700k using the cryorig c7 or the noctua NH-L9i? Not getting a bigger fan or watercooling.

All the way

I'm going to buy a i3-6100.

Should I worry about Turbo Boost support in the motherboard? I have no idea whether I'll be upgrading CPU or not.

is labsim guy a fucking meme? I used that shit 5 years ago, still remember this goofy fucker

That is not the real cost difference between the two processors.
There is also:
The motherboard (z170 OC-ing premium)
The cooler (aftermarket hsf)
The psu (buying a more reliable/higher wattage unit)
The RAM, which your motherboard supports with higher frequencies like 3000MHz.
The case (better ventilation or size to fit your components, namely the heatsink/radiator)
It amounts to much more than $110.

If I had to guess, the difference would actually be roughly doubled ($220-$250).

>The PSU adds to the price
>difference of about 20 watts
And if he's smart he got an overkill PSU for the same price as a meme'd "just barely making it" PSU anyways
And if he's not overclocking and just getting a 6600? Then there's no extra cost for heatsink, motherboard, ram (since apparently 3000mhz ddr4 is all that ever will matter and is mandatory according to you)

>>not buying HGST
How much better is a 1tb sata6gb HGST than a WB Blue? Worth $20ish?

Pretty much all decent motherboards have turbo boost support.

what?

I've already got the z170 board, aftermarket cooler, 650 watt gold PSU, 3000 mhz 16GB RAM, and a solid case.

I'm just wanting to wait until next gen intel hits and then grab the i5 7600k (or whatever the next gen 6600k equivalent would be).

I'm all set up to support either processor, but I want to know if they are comparable.

I'm making a budget build and the Gigabyte mobo I found doesn't have it. There's an Asus one that is $10 more expensive and has it.
I don't know if it's even worth getting it.

Am I fucked?

I originally posted at a weird hour again, so I'd like to call attention to my original post again.

It really isn't a comparison between the 6100 and the 6600k.
The i3 is at 3.7GHz with 2 cores 4 threads meanwhile
The i5 is at 3.5GHz with 4 cores 4 threads.

The i5-6600k can easily overclock beyond the speed of the i3, and will blow it away in anything that uses multiple cores effectively.

That said, for videogames by themselves I think the 6100 is the better buy, as games do not often take full advantage of multi-core performance,
and if you are buying kaby lake anyway, you'll find a lot more people looking for an i3-6100 used than an i5-6600k simply because of the price difference and the risk that comes with OC in potential cpu damage/limited lifespan.

>next gen 6600k equivalent
It'll be the 7600k because nothing is changing

>i3-6100 will resell better than i5-6600k

Post your Little Orphan Annie rig.

You know what it is: The rig you can't afford today but will tomorrow, whenever tomorrow may be.

So, I'm thinking about building a FreeNAS box. Would you fine gents be able to help me pick out some parts? I'm not sure what would be adequate vs overkill when it comes to NAS. I mean in terms of Motherboard, RAM, CPU etc. I have no idea what I'm aiming for.

What about the HDD's themselves? I was looking at WD Reds unless there's something better out there but WD has never let me down with any of their drives so far. Also, case recommendation for the project? I want something small(ish) with a lot of HDD bays (obviously).

I was gonna buy a pre-built NAS enclosure and just fill it with drives but they seem a bit of a rip off really.

>dream build
>normal $1300 computer with 21 hot swappable terabytes of porn

>$1300 computer

Even in Ameribucks and without the added storage or monitor it's over $2300.

Not even $2000 and that's keeping the excessive ram, an equally meme case, platinum PSU and 1TB SSD. And I didn't even scroll down through any parts
pcpartpicker.com/list/cFr4pb

I'm just saying for a "dream build" you can get a lot more stupid with your money than that
That's an expensive high end computer that a normal wagecuck would buy, not an elusive dream machine that you would work towards

I built my computer for $1200, an i7 would've been an extra $100 and a 1080 would've been an extra $200, doubled ram would've been an extra $80
I mean it's not unrealistic to get a 6700k/1080/1TBSSD for $1300-1600 but you gotta cheap the fuck out on most parts

People lead different lives.

A simple i7/1080 rig might be mundane to you but to me it is absolutely an elusive dream machine that I have to work towards.

And you can't just write off the storage either. That's a huge aspect of it for me, and one that adds massive amount of expense (not just the drives themselves but the drive bay and the mobo with eight SATA ports).

But why?
What specifically do you need 21 hot swappable terabytes for?
You also have 6 hard drives, what motherboard does not have 6 sata ports?

Should i take an Intel Core i5-3470+mobo for 120€, i currently own phenom II x6 1090t.
Im planning to buy a 480 8go soon, im tired of my phenom, that shit cant play insurgency, and i must on/off something when i want to play Vermintide or Red Orchestra 2.

Got my new pc all put together but my GPU is not being detected/ used as the primary video source.

I disabled the onboard graphics from the bios and the hdmi is in the GPU itself and it displays fine (using it atm) but when I check speccy it says I'm still using onboard graphics and any attempt to start a game ends in a crash.

I can't see how this is possible desu if the onboard graphics are disabled, GPU is seated properly and turned on (fans spinning, leds, 8pin is connected).

Any thoughts?

Getting a new computer for work/gaymen next month or so and i was wondering which GPU to chose.
Currently i'm on 1080p@60Hz but might get a 1440p next year.
I basically decided on getting a 1070, but i'm still undecided on which one to get. I want a rather silent card with good value, this are the options i'm considering:
zotac.com/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1070-amp-edition#spec
palit.com/palit/vgapro.php?id=2629&lang=en&pn=NE51070S15P2-1041J&tab=sp
eu.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6276-KR
If i decide to not buy a 1440p monitor, i'm probably better off going with a 1060, right?

Get the cheapest one, they're all quiet and cool due to based jews
And yes but 1440p is cool and it's only gonna get cheaper

Just noticing also, the onboard graphics show msi but its a gigabyte board kek

wait for the 1080ti to come out and drop the prices.

Where should I look for water custom water cooling parts? What stores/companies/sites? Want to do cpu and gpu.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/wpk2xY

Any thoughts on this setup? I'm really lost on what kind of monitor to get, I don't play any first person shooters but I do play some fighting games

drivers?

Stupid question, but did you install the correct drivers for the GPU?

Hope so, would be pretty nice to watch my chinese cartoons and play my gaymin in 1440p. Guess i'll get a good 1070 on sale.

Do you really think the jews will drop upper-midrage cards prices when the 1080ti comes out? I seriously doubt that.

I thought I had, but that seems like it could be the only culprit.

I will check it out and see what happens.

I really think they would drop prices. In fact I'm counting on it at this point. I'm either getting a 1080ti or a 1070.

Anyone?

Or should I just buy an off the shelf solution and be a pleb to proprietry software?

1080ti is basically a Titan XP with a few less cores and higher clocks, sticking with 12GB and the same vram that the Titan XP has. It's expected to be $800+

I'm in Canada its probably going to be $1100. Which is literally how much I'm buying the rest of my components for. I'd rather go for a 1070 or 1060 to be honest. I don't game that much.

>What specifically do you need 21 hot swappable terabytes for?

I'd run it as a RAID 5 array, so it would be 16TB of storage. The reason is media. I love movies and TV shows. But high quality media takes up a lot of space. 16TB is actually fairly conservative, as a single Blu-Ray rip can eat up 25-50GB (per disk). In other words, The Sopranos alone fills more than a terabyte.

This is also the reason for the Blu-Ray reader. I could just download the movies and TV shows but those are huge fucking downloads and my ISP would eat my asshole (especially if I lived in a rural area which, if we're living in the fantasy world where I own this computer, is the case). Cheaper to buy the Blu-Ray, rip it to MKV (creating a huge uncompressed file) then selling the Blu-Rays.

The drives are hot swaps for two reasons: 1) If a drive goes down a replacement can be popped in without having to take the back panel off and 2) the 3.5" drive bays block the front fans while the 5.25" bays are sitting unused and aren't obstructing anything. I've thought about using the Corsair 900D instead but the case itself isn't as nice.

>You also have 6 hard drives, what motherboard does not have 6 sata ports?

Five HDDs, plus an SSD, plus a BD reader = 7 ports, which pretty much means finding a mobo with 8 ports. That usually means either six regular ports and a SATA Express or four regular ports and two SATA Expresses. Options are limited, especially if you don't want a motherboard that has a retarded paint job. The other avenue is to use a PCI RAID controller to handle some of the drives but that just complicates things.

I'm trying to connect a USB 3.0 19pin female connector into my motherboard through a 19pin to PCI-E adapter but I'm getting conflicting information about the power source.

Something like uittek.com/pci-express-pcie-to-2-port-usb-30-host-control-card-w-20pin-usb30-connector-nec-chipset-with-solid-capacitors_p340.html shows that I'll need to connect a 4pin molex power supply into it as well as install the drivers to make it work but then ebay.com/itm/2-Port-19Pin-USB-3-0-Card-PCI-e-to-PCI-Express-Internal-20Pin-Male-Ports-Adapter-/122023130199?hash=item1c69253457 shows TWO internal connectors without the need for any power source at all.

Is this a meme or does it actually work? Why can't it just draw power from the PCI-E slot like my GPU does?

Anyone help? Where do I start looking at different options for blocks? That is probably depending on the cpu and gpu but what about pumps rads and res? What stores should I start looking at before making a decision?

Is there a trustworthy site for this info? If I start googling I wont know the shilling from the legit.

>>>JayzTwoCents

You could always just look at the site for your local computer parts store if you have one.

Otherwise newegg isn't that bad.

>Where should I look for water custom water cooling parts? What stores/companies/sites? Want to do cpu and gpu.
You get kits for custom water cooling. Amazon has some, that will give you some brand names to google and research reviews on etc.

I was just at microcenter. They have some parts but they look like just the most basic kits.. No blocks. Though they did have some hard line tubing but Im not sure how many tools I would need to buy for that. A heat gun and some kind of bending guide thing at least.

Also why does every fuck on youtube use color colored coolant? Thought that was going to gunk up the works? Get colored tubing and clear liquid no? Or did that change?

I've built a few PC's before but they've all had gaming as a main goal. I have a buddy who wants me to help him build a pc, but his main goal is for video editing. The only video games he plays are ps2/gamecube era games on his old consoles, so no gpu, or a very light gpu, is needed.
the case, mobo, whatever I can work out myself, but what sort of cpu should i be looking at? The build needs to be as cheap as possible.

-I could go with an FX series cpu for multi-threading and overclocking, but then i'd need to buy a decent cooler and also a tiny gpu for video out.

-Or I could go with something intel for the iGpu, save on the cooler, but then I lose the 8-core performance and overclocking.

tl;dr i5 6500 or fx 8350 overclocked for video editing? a 6600k + z170 + cooler is slightly out of budget. I have an 8350 in my computer, and I got a Cinnebench score of about 626 or so at stock clock speeds, did cinnebench on a friend's 6500 and it was 601. I'd imagine if we overclock it the performance difference will be even more pronounced.

Jay actually had an issue recently with pastel colorant gunking up Skunkworks. But I believe that issue was resolved and in his recent rebuild of Skunkworks he again used opaque colored coolant.

While there is a risk of having the colorant fucking up the works that is not at all the norm and considering 90% of the point of a custom loop is aesthetics it's worth the risk.

Although personally I very much prefer transparent colored coolant since it actually looks like liquid instead of plastic bars, and that requires exponentially less colorant than the opaque stuff.

My guess it that the one in your pic will only support 2 USB3.0 to power external devices, whereas the one in the first link will provide power to all ports connected to it equally. It could also be that the USB controller requires more power on the first one to work but the makers wanted to keep it PCIe 1x for the sake of compatibility.
And why do you need the adapter? Does your case's front USB3.0 cable not have 20-holes?

A used Sandy Bridge Xeon with an LGA 2011 board on eBay. As many cores as you can find for $150.

>Jay actually had an issue recently with pastel colorant gunking up Skunkworks
That was his own fault and you know it.

I'm not making a statement one way or the other, just making a point.

Fairly certain it wasn't "gunking up", just changing color.
He had three Titan X cards, and an x99 cpu running MASSIVE overclocks. Sure his system could dissipate it all, but that doesn't stop the heat from being generated in the first place. No way was that fluid meant to take all that kind of extreme load. They probably consider their stress test to be SLI gtx 980ti's and a z170 or a 4770k.

My case has 2 USB 3.0 slots that are both connected to a single 19pin female port. I have no male port on my motherboard to connect it to, only a few JUSB ones.

My understanding is that the JUSB ports in my motherboard support up to USB 2.0 and draw their needed power directly from the motherboard.

What confuses me though is that while 19pin to PCI-E adapters with no additional power supply exist while pic related also exists. What gives?

Why does one 19pin connector need a power supply while TWO 19pin connectors don't?

>tfw too intelligent to not migrate

MIGRATE

p-please be nice....

Tomshardware is a good start.

That's actually not a terrible idea. Should I tell him to get a gpu too for acceleration? Or is it mostly wasted?
For a little context, he's looking to upload to YouTube, not anything professional.

bump

new