/mkg/ - mechanical keyboard general

The keycap puller it comes with isn't that bad
It's 55g, feels good, I definitely wouldn't like it to be lighter

I know nothing about keyboards. Are mechanical ones objectively better than rubber dome or is it just preference?

Go vlog elsewhere you fucking cunt, you topre fags are cancer.

better in the sense of longevity, consistency, customization, but their feeling, and worth for the dollar is completely subjective

How could they be objectively better?

What's your opinion on this thing? It sure looks fucking ugly, but it just looks damn comfy to type on. Thinking of getting it, after all I work with computers every day so might as well be comfortable

They offer a high level of customization and typically feel nicer to use than your standard membrane keyboard, while also being more durable.

What keyboards do you guys use? I'm trying to get an idea of what to get other than looking at the list on logicalincrements. I have a budget of $150 or so, but less is better

An IBM model F has around 100,000,000 key press before it's supposed to break compared to the ~2,000,000 of a rubberdome. The feel is something that is completely subjective and each person has their own preference since there are a huge variety of switch types: deskthority.net/wiki/Category:List_of_all_keyboard_switches

Mainly the HHKB because any form factor larger than 75% sucks for home use.

>tfw tada68 on the way
>tfw going to build 40%

If you want 100% or 80%, I'd go for a Ducky or a Filco. Though you could also get a cheap chinkboard as a first.
If you want something 60% sized, I recommend getting anything that's not the pok3r.

I use a ducky one. The macros are fun to use which is why for a first time keyboard I would recommend it. I'd suggest you go to a big box store like microcenter and tryout some switches first before you buy. There are also 30-40 dollar mechanical keyboards if you dont want to spend $100

Enjoy the abs spacebar
Also the keypuller is shit
be warned before you scratch up a key or break your spacebar stabilizer

actually though originative is triggering me

I ordered my tada during the first group buy, and it was supposed to be here mid last month, but it just got delayed again.

I've talked to the originative guys and they're just being super vague, they must have really screwed something up.

Thing is, all the other people i know in the original gb have theirs by now.

I already bought a wire keycap puller, I was just saying it isn't that bad
And I'm waiting on my PBT spacebar from massdrop

that's two ducky suggestions, I'll have to start researching them. How are the WASD and Corsair (ie k70) keyboards? Those are the only ones I really know off the top of my head. Unfortunately there are no electronic stores where I live so I can't test out the switches

looks like god just hates. Did you do something to piss him off? I bet you were the one shitposting about why "gaming" switches are the best for everything

I like WASD, the code is what I would go with if I wanted a MX keyboard

>any form factor larger than 75% sucks for home use
Why? It's not like they take up that much more space and the numpad can be neat. Not to mention arrow keys and having many usable keys hidden under function keys with the HHKB.
Personally I don't like the looks of tiny keyboards either.

Stay away from Corsair. The whole reason why people spend the money on a mechanical keyboard is for customization, but for some stupid reason they have a nonstandard bottom layout so when you have to replace the awful stock keycaps when they break you end up with pic related. Also I wouldn't get WASD uses cheapo keycaps despising having a premium price. Ducky has dye-sub PBT caps which are better then anything razer, corsair, or wasd can come up with and they are even cheaper then all of them

my current meme family

next: planck -> duck orion v3

I sent them an email asking them about my order, and it got shipped out the same day as I got a reply to that email. Don't know if that had anything to do with my order getting shipped, but yes, the amount of delays has been absurd.

>Taifoon
I can understand this part
>wrong sized boxes
Fine enough, shit like this can happen when you're going to between two languages and your business partner is China.
>hiccup
This must be something really embarrassing now

I'm just looking forward to customs ripping me a new one.

Corsair keyboards are shit (see this ), stay away from them.
WASD is a step up. The custom keycaps are shit and overpriced, don't get them unless you absolutely need/want some custom design.
Their build quality is supposedly not that amazing either.

You can get a switch tester to test out different switches.

What's wrong with the pok3r? Been meaning to pick up one with clears.

I want to get a duck keyboard but $400 is a bit too much. Also when did they change back to the text captcha

i think the options i would get would put it a little over $300 shipped, but ye it's way too fucking much for what it is

also i'm still getting recaptcha trash

I don't like moving my hands that far from the home row just to access the arrow keys. I really liked the layout of the magicforce, since the arrow keys are still quite close to the home row, but having them on the home row on an FN layer is also very comfortable. It depends a lot on what I'm doing, for PCB design I use the Quickfire TK, since having arrow keys and a numpad can come in handy there.

TKLs and even more so full-sized keyboards take up a whole lot more space, though my main issue with them is how far I have to move my hands to access the mouse. I used a Shine 4 for half a year, and I didn't mind having a full-size at all. I used the numpad as a pad for macro keys, but now that I'm used to the smaller form factor, I wouldn't really want to go back to full-size or even TKL for comfy home use.

Larger keyboards have times when they're useful, but most of the time I don't need the numpad, the nav cluster or the FN keys, so having that stuff on a function row isn't really an issue for me.

Metal case with spray paint that chips easily and resonates and laser-etched PBT caps. Both of these are main selling points, and the latter one pretty much defeats itself by being laser-etched. You'll want to replace them with something more durable once the legends start to fade, which doesn't take very long.

And it's not fully programmable either.

Got a Ducky DK2108 myself and I love it. Cheaper than most mechanical keyboards and fantastic to use. Went with brown keys cos I was a noob and wanted to use it for both typing and gaming. Got a Das Keyboard at work which is nearly as good. Someone else at work has a Das Keyboard but with blue keys and everyone hates him.

All the Korean custom keyboards have insane $300+ pricing. It seems that it would be cheaper to go to a metal shop and have them make you a case and plate, then buy the switches and hand wire the thing together

Naw im the one that shills gats

So many mechanical keyboards posted here look so boring and tastless, it feels like people throw in random coloured keycaps with some random coloured keyboard

Just wait until I get my PCB cutting business going. Oh yeah.

Its funny that a DAS 3 has better build quality then a DAS 4. Also what are these guys smoking that they think a laser etched sticker is a selling feature?

getting a one off case and plate made would be cheaper than a bulk order group buy? yeah probably not famila

but not like korean customs aren't overpriced

Yeah the one I got for work was a Das Keyboard 3. The only reason I got that model was because it was one of only two models I could find that definitively stated that it worked with PS/2 KVMs (which we use). £35 more than my Ducky and definitely not worth the extra cost otherwise.

does anyone have that picture that shows the different keycap profiles?

you mean this?

yes, thanks!

My desk is too high up for that to be feasible

will Yuros get import taxes when buying from elitekeyboards?

yes

I'll bump this thread with a meme board so it doesn't hit the archives again

Thank you for your service

LOVE ME

how does one go about programing a keyboard like that? Can I get it to work with windows?

qmk.fm/
pjrc.com/teensy/
you make your config file, compile a hex, and load it
it's really quite simple and with all the fancy firmware already built for doing this, you really don't have to know or understand much of anything
>Can I get it to work with windows?
ew, why on earth would want to?

anyone use zealios? not sure if i want them or lubed clears for my next board

if you're already fine with the weight, just use lubed clears

so much sturdier than zealios

CUTE

alright, thanks

Hey faggots how do I hack the cia without a big clunky keyboard what keyboard do I get to hack people

Happy Hacking Keyboard, obvs.

That is unless you want to hack while upset, in which case use a Razer keyboard.

That keypuller is really great when you have to pull the actual switch out when desoldering a PCB.

youtube.com/watch?v=1eLBMewLibU

MKG, I know I was an idiot for this, but I purchased a corsair k70 a few years ago and it served me pretty well. Problem is that now it's started to have permanent cross chatter between keys (Press m, outputs mj; press c, outputs cd, etc, but only for a handful of keys). Does anyone know if this is fixable? Else any recommendations for
>Budget
$175
>Location (continent at least)
USA
>Preferred switch type
Red or Brown
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
100%
>Backlight
Nice but not required
>Previous/current keyboards
Corsair K70
Model M

Hhkb

Ah, crap forgot that I'd really like NKRO if possible

old as moses

post korean customs

just get a ducky one with PBT caps

...

Returned Ducky Shine 5
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2021

i forget i put leds in this one
i never use them

My mechanical keyboard is fucked up. My computer can't even detect it so it's probably the firmware which I can't even wipe or update.

Wat do?

apply garbage can
acquire new

helps if you told us your keyboard and your operating system

Get a new micro controller?

Why do people do this. Do you think we can read your mind and figure out exactly what happened. If you want help either give us more information or fuck off back to whatever subreddit you came from. I'll gladly help you but do I look like a mind reader?

My pride and shame. Got it for cheap.

Thinking of messing around with Teensy if all else fails.

I feel it's mostly preference.
They're much more responsive and satisfying to use in my opinion, stock rubber dome keyboards are almost depressing to type on in comparison.

Aww yes the non standard bottom row, my favorite!

Anyway

So did this issue happen recently or when your keyboard first arrived and plunged it in?

see

Power outage during update.

Thats weird the surge protectors and capacitors should have saved your keyboard. It might be that its completely fried and you have to do

I went from knowing nothing about mechanical keyboards to wanting a dozen makes and models, custom keycaps, everything from 100% to 40%, etc. all in one afternoon. How do I not spend all my money?

Simple. Buy a buckling spring keyboard and call it a day.

Find what you like the most and then buy it as your endgame

Ducky One TKL a good choice for a first mechanical kb?

no

Get a ducky one instead. Its cheaper and has more features

What does mkg think of my new keyboard? Got it yesterday and i'm really enjoying it so far.

Also, does anyone know how long pimpmykeyboard takes to restock? i've had my eye on a keyset for ages now and it's still out of stock.

Pimp my keyboard never restocks. Maybe in 2 years they will make another set, but for now you have to buy knockoffs like pic related

looks good, i got one of those for my brother and he likes it
never tried greens before

what board is that? your setup is sweet

HHKB pro 2, its a $200 memeboard

Are Cherry Reds actually quiet, or just in comparison to DAKKADAKKADAKKA keyboards?

doesn't matter if you bottom out the switch it still makes a loud noise. If you want a quiet switch then get a matias quiet click since its silenced on the way down and up

>mfw 1978s

They still make a plastic-on-plastic clack when bottoming out and again when they spring back up.

For a switch to actually be quiet it has to be dampened in addition to not having a mechanism in it that specifically makes sound.

You messed up the link
Its supposed to be >>>/(board)/(postnumber)

looking for inexpensive (>100) near silent, basic backlit keyboard

In theory if you had the finesse to press each key to actuation without bottoming out they would be virtually silent.

But since nobody has that kind of finesse they actually sound more like this: youtu.be/c-Yp1LCw6Nw?t=114

damn a rubberdome is really quiet

You're literally mushing the key down onto a rubber cushion, so there are no plastic impact sounds.

Mech switches can also be dampened to similar effect: youtube.com/watch?v=VORGnHc0-PM

Anyone used one of these?
wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard.html

how is the pok3r as my first mechanical keyboard? I figure I'm fine with tenkeyless, but unsure if I want 60% or 80%.

Get the pok3r

apparently the new pok3r rgb model uses abs rather than dye-sub pbt. should I get the older model that uses the pbt?

Whichever is cheaper, since sooner or later you'll probably want custom caps.

Than lower your desk, faggot.

How much do you goys get for selling your keyboard?

Would like to get rid of my Nova touch and just have some regular rubber dome really. I could put the money elsewhere.

Keyboard gore?

Keyboard gore.

youtube.com/watch?v=1x2XugT50Ds

Where there were once glorious blue ALPS switches... Tactile leaves? Gutted. Click leaves? Excised.

what a massive moron. SKCL greens and yellows are less than half the price and have the same end result with no work.

then again, I've rescued 700+ dollar keyboards from the trash, so I'm really not surprised.

pimpmykeyboard.com/g20-stealth-keycap-set/

Anybody try these? I wonder if the shape and texture of them would make it more comfortable for typing or worse. They look pretty cool though.

as long as you go for clicky tactile switches (for typing, not necessarily for gaming) and as long as you don't mind the noise they make (a lot of people actually enjoy the sound) they are so good to the point where you won't want to use rubber dome ever again

>Budget
$150 AUD ($200 if there's literally nothing good)
>Location
Melbourne
>Preferred switch type
Don't care as long as it's not loud/clicky and hard to press
>Layout
QWERTY
>Form factor
TKL or full
>Backlight
Don't care, but none of that autistic 6 gorillian rgb colour shit
>Previous/current keyboards
Logitech G110

Additional Note: I really like the sound of silenced topres, but unfortunately I don't have any brain damage, so I'm not willing to pay that much for the. So alternate keyboards that may have a topre-like sound have priority.

>people want to buy dumb premade standardized keyboards when they could easily make their own customized perfectly to what they want and need for cheaper
why though

>I can easily make my own customized keyboard perfectly tailored to what I want and for cheaper
how though

...

"easily"
aka takes dozens of hours of practice, skills, and time to assemble that most people aren't willing (or even interested in) dedicating

I love building keyboards, but let's not be fucking stupid here.

Why do so many of you mechanicalfags use this LGBT faggot ribbon cable?

Dat Matias Quiet Click switch.

Dat KBP V60 Mini.

Dat perfect form factor.

Probably something with Matias quiet switches. Not sure how you'd get them imported for under $200 though.

It's like, 1-2 hours of actual `labor' tops.
Or if you don't care about how it looks, you could more than half that.
Most people are prolly too dumb and lacking in basic dexterity and core life skills though, you're right - Was I expecting too much of the people here?

You can get them for like 50 cents shipped from China per 40-wire ribbon, but they only come in some variant of rainbow.

I don't understand how someone could stand doing the "right" for say... over 10 hours gaming?

>haven't heard back from amazon seller
>send an email through the website
>don't get the "your e-mail to..." confirmation

what the fuck man

what if the seller sent an email but amazon fucked up so i never received it

ok
How much does it cost to build your own mechanical keyboard?

The "right" way will just give you tennis elbow after a while.

The correct way to avoid RSI is to not subject yourself to repetitive strain like using a computer keyboard for 10 hours a day.

anything from ~$100 to ~$1000 depending on your requirements and of course it can be even more expensive if you make some super fancy "artisan" keyboard

Avoiding playing on a computer for 10 hours a day is impossible if you really enjoy gaming and playing mmos.

More than buying new, because niche and super low manufacturing volume.

If you're wondering why they would skimp and get gaudy ribbon cables after dropping $500 on custom parts, they probably came with the DIY kit.

here's my breakdown:
$29.22 dsa pbt blank keycaps (x50)
$24.50 cherry blue switches (x50)
$22.61 planck top plate
$17.52 teensy2.0
$04.00 1n4148 diodes (x50)
$03.00 solder
$01.00 ribon wire
$10.99 back plate
$01.36 bolts and spacers
-------
$114.21

It's a choice, and it has consequences.

fuck that sucks. Well in that case, does anyone know where i can get some knockoff symbiosis keycap set?

>dsa
>cherry

You overpaid by $114.21

nothing wrong with those

i've just bought steel series 6gv2 for ~$70 please tell me if i fucked up.

Same answer as the last time you posted that.

Also we know you didn't actually buy it.

?
first time i post this
and i actually have ordered it, sorry mate.
now give an answer about the keyboard please.

...

it'll be fine user

>linear switches
>meemd

So then how long are you suppose to be at your computer gaming?

Now do the calculations for a 60%, TKL and full size.

You built a keyboard that's smaller than a pok3r and almost costs as much. You can probably imagine that it'd get even more expensive once you build something larger.

Update 2

this is killing me do you think the emails will go through or will i get stuck in this limbo of not knowing what is going on

>The "right" way will just give you tennis elbow after a while.
You rest your forearms instead of your wrists.

You take regular goddamned breaks, man.

>budget
$100 USD

>location
Israel

>preferred switch type
Cherry mx blues

>layout
I don't really care. Current keyboard is ANSI though

>form factor
TKL

>backlight
White backlight if even possible at this budget, can do without

I've never tried a mechanical keyboard, nor have i seen one in store here in Isreal so I'm planning on ordering one from amazon most likely. I'm leaning towards blue switches because that seems like the most popular choice.
All help is appreciated.

coolermaster.com/peripheral/keyboards/rapid-i/

>tfw snackeys v2 are showing up today

:3

>Budget
150$ max
>Location (continent at least)
USA, Texas (if that even matters)
>Preferred switch type
Browns
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
Tenkeyless or 60%
>Backlight
would be nice but doesn't matter
>Previous/current keyboards
Quickfire Rapid with browns.

Looking for an upgrade to my current Quickfire Rapid. I'd eventually like to get a nice set of keycaps for the new keyboard I'll get. I'm considering getting a 60% so I can bring it with my laptop if I want to.

If you're interested in a 60% you could always just go for a pok3r.

>Living in Lexington

My nigga. Go Cats

True. Any other 60%'s I should consider though?

As far as store-available boards, there's a load of more budget-friendly ones, but I'm not sure that construction-wise they would actually be an "upgrade" to a QFR.

If you have the equipment and ability, a custom 60% is a definite improvement to a pok3r though, and kits like the GH60 have some pretty damn affordable options.

Yeah, I'll probably just get a pok3r. Thanks.

you could look at 65-75%

massdrop.com/buy/red-scarf-ii-68-key-custom-keyboard-kit?mode=guest_open

That keyboard requires work and soldering to set up. I don't have the willpower or the equipment for that unfortunately.

>Work and soldering

It's a full kit user, building a thing like that would take you an hour, two at most. You can get a cheap soldering iron that will do the job just fine for ten bucks or so from China, or just from your local hardware store.

Though getting assdrop to run that drop again is a different matter.

It's tempting, but I dunno. I could probably do it but I'm afraid I would end up fucking something up. It also ships in December, and I kind of want the keyboard now.

I can see your point on not wanting to wait, but there's really not a whole lot to fuck up there. All you have to do is solder in the switches and mount the stabilizers.

Yeah. If it would ship by the end of this month I'd probably get it, but not if it takes three months to arrive. Looks real good though.

I fucking hate linear switches

> nonstandard keycaps
> ugly
> made by hipsters
> will likely never exist

First batch of these memeboards are coming out in November, anyone from /mkg/ interested in it?

Any playce to get >>CHEAP

is any switch tester fine to use or is there a recommended one?

amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473961748&sr=1-2&keywords=switch tester

was just gonna get this since it's the cheapest

What are soom nice Unixcomp classic mods i can do?

Really depends what you want to try.

I wish clueboard's wasn't out of stock, I have one and it's solid. It's got a good selection of cherry switches (including uncommon ones like linear and tactile grays), gaterons, and even zealios.

It also had a little PCB that you could solder in LEDs to make sure you soldered the switches properly, it was a nice beginner project.

The NPKC tester on Massdrop right now has some nice variety. I think it's worth feeling the difference between brands, even if the switches are supposed to be clones.

>anyone from /mkg/ interested in it?
I'm slightly disappointed that they didn't pick me as a beta tester, though I'm guessing they were looking for people to test the software rather than the board.

I'll probably get one of them in December if they get good reviews.

amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473964485&sr=8-2&keywords=switch tester

there's also this one with more options, but it's not on a pcb board like the previous one I linked. do you think it would still give an accurate representation?

A switch tester with switches that are mounted on a metal plate would arguably give you the most accurate representation, since even cheap chinaboards that cost 40 bucks have metal plates on which the switches are mounted.

Cooler master has a switch tester that has a metal plate, but really, any switch tester is just fine, the plate doesn't make such a massive difference as that it'd be of any concern when trying out how they feel.

amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473965017&sr=8-2&keywords=switch tester

amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473965017&sr=8-3&keywords=switch tester

which would you suggest? is the one with the extra options worth $10 more when the cheaper one seems to cover the most common ones?

Nice. Thinking of getting it with their Reds, Blues, or both?
I personally can't see an analogue button working very well with a clicky switch.

are ortholinear keyboard's a meme? or do they actually have better ergonomics?

I saw this on sale today at amazon, is Lingbao Juangshi an ok company or should I ask chink shit general about that?

amazon.com/dp/B01EWB91ZC?psc=1

Nice machine you got there. Whats the name/price of this model? I'm using a stepcraft 420 at the moment but I gotta say this one looks interesting.

I'll be getting it with their reds since I can't really stand blues in the first place. Given how the switch works (infrared emitter and sensor with a lens in the switch), I don't think the the click mechanism of the blues would get in the way of that.

I'd get the one with a greater variety of switches. It's only ten bucks more anyway, and you'll find out how you like the less common switches.

The price was 250 bucks or so from aliexpress, I'd have to ask the class instructor about the name of it though.

The micro-step motors work in steps of 1/300th of a millimeter, which results in one full turn being 2mm in movement. So you can cut things quite accurately with this.
Going to build a larger one with more play on the z-axis once I have some proper money in my pockets, that's for sure.

Hmmm didn't expect it to be from aliexpress because these aluminum profiles look like they are from the company Item.
I assume you attended a workshop to assemble it.
But anyway thanks for the info, 250 seems rather cheap.

>I assume you attended a workshop to assemble it
Kind of. It's a three month course coupled with nine month of an internship somewhere for people who have no previous experience in electrical work. It's pretty much entirely practical and independent work, part of this was building a cnc machine so we could cut our own PCBs (and whatever else we want to cut). I don't know when I last had this much fun attending a school.

KB Paradise V60 vs Pok3r. Which should I get /mkg/?

When going to lan, where do you keep your keyboard under transportation? In a backpack or a own bag? Im looking for a solution to safely keep my unicomp under transportation

Memes aside. Is the hhkb a good keyboard? Are you able to press any key combination and all register?

>Expensive membranes

Depends on what you really want. V60 if you're not going for Cherry switches, otherwise I'd say Pok3r slightly wins because full alu frame, programmable keys, and doubleshot PBT keycaps standard. I just wish it had the media keys that the V60 does (at least it still has volume controls though).

Non-mech keyboard question! I impulse bought pic related and the shift keys feel kinda stiff. Upon taking a keycap off, it appears that the stabilizer wires still have some lubricant on them - should I clean and re-lubricate them? and with what sort of lubricant? Should the cylindrical part that presses the rubber dome also be lubricated somehow?

what 60% keyboard do you recommend if not the pok3r?

the new pok3r uses abs keycaps

V60, hhkb

>the new pok3r uses abs keycaps
If you mean the RGB one, then yes, because PBT isn't transparent (and not a lot of people make doubleshot PBT with transparent legends). All non-backlit pok3rs still have PBT.

Someone in the town over is selling two good condition Model Ms for 15 each but he said they are lexmark models. Is it worth it? I don't know the difference

>what 60% keyboard do you recommend if not the pok3r?
I don't really have a particular recommendation apart from the HHKB. My point with telling people not to get the pok3r is that the two main selling points of the board are retarded, since the metal case resonates and the paint scratches easily and the PBT keycaps are laser etched, so you'll definitely want to replace the caps sometime, and probably the case too depending on how it gets used.
And it's not even fully programmable either, not a deal-breaker for a 60%, but it's a sensible thing to implement if you're dealing with sub-TKL form factors.

Hardly any difference from later round logo Ms, still better than Unicomp build quality by a good amount. Definitely worth both.

ok. should i kill myself?

They're alright though bear in mind although they switch capacitively, they are rubber domes and have wear/age related drawbacks like any rubber material.

Capacitive switching keyboards intrinsically have n-key rollover. The limit if any would be on the controller.

...

how is unikeyboard terminus 2? cheapest for its size? i thinking building one

Point and laugh: IDK who recc'd that but if that's who I think it is I told him to get a Realforce.

you gotta tell me what this course is called

>I spent $500 on massdrop.jpg

would an hhkb be overkill for your first mechanical keyboard, or is it just achieving perfection from the get go?

it would be good

topre is a meme don't do it

at least get a tester with some cherry and topre switches to get a feel for it before you drop hundreds of autismbux on a weeb keyboard

idk i'm currently using mx blacks :'^

it's so subjective

wait are you memeing me
does some hhkb model come with cherry switches?

you can't meme me about rifles but I don't know anything about keyboards
>la rue
>scar
>.308

expensive taste

no i mean i'm using this board right now
not my HHKB

ebay.com/itm/HHKB-Mechanical-Keyboard-DIY-Kit-Customized-Set-SANTA-GH60-PCB-MX-Switch-For-60-/182280087498?var=&hash=item2a70bd67ca:m:mpSYHwBb8Fx_an2nzdo2fBQ

what board is that?

Filco

which filco

majestouch 2 tkl

it's not like they make a large range on keyboards

that feel when your tada 68 has been a 10 minute drive from home for 3 days

yeah I've fallen for the hhkb meme

white or black?

Whichever you like more
also if you want a cheaper alternative check this out ebay.com/itm/HHKB-Mechanical-Keyboard-DIY-Kit-Customized-Set-SANTA-GH60-PCB-MX-Switch-For-60-/182280087498?var=&hash=item2a70bd67ca:m:mpSYHwBb8Fx_an2nzdo2fBQ

It doesn't have topre, but it is customizable

What caaps look good on black case
Everything i like doesnt work with black

...

If i went blank i would go lavender

>lavender
needs a white case imo

I know :c its judt the only blank cap i find appealing

whats that middle one?

I have light grey and it looks pretty decent, particularly since my keyboard isn't perfectly black (quickfire rapid; it's some kind of weird soft touch plastic or something)

Same as mine
Its essentially the same stuff as plastidip they coated it with
Just thicker
Ive been thinking about sanding it off and painting it white

pok3r w/ mx clears
granite keycaps

Fucking pointless. What are you going to do play racing games with it? Play mgs2? It is just pointless.

Elite: Dangerous

M+KB is the superior control scheme in all respects except for a lack of analog inputs for 6DOF thruster controls. This keyboard will perfect it.

it's a nice idea but i'm skeptical that the implementation and software support will be any good

I think a joystick would probably be better.

Lacks precision.

what do you mean? why would a (good) joystick be less precise than a key switch?

>Budget
$150 usd

>Location (continent at least)
ConUS

>Preferred switch type
Blues

>Layout
ANSI

>Form factor
60-80%, arrow keys and two shifts are important

>Backlight
no preference

>Previous/current keyboards
I've had a Logitech g15 for about ten years, I don't really get any use out of the bells/whistles anymore though

>misc
I'd prefer PBT keycaps, and I'd prefer a clean, modern font face on the keycaps over something 1337 gamurrr haxx0r looking

ebay.com/itm/New-Leopold-FC660M-Mechanical-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Blue-PBT-Black-English-/281854295741?hash=item419fd33ebd:g:4GIAAOSw7hRWQyc9

Precision is needed for pitch+yaw aiming and you get that from a mouse. A stick just can't compare. There's also a capture/escape mechanic in the game that works like trying to balance on the head of a pit and stick players get BTFO by M+KB players every time.

Yet pairing the mouse for aim with a stick for thrusters leaves you without anywhere near enough buttons for all the other necessary controls. You don't want to be taking your hand off one control to reach for another in the thick of it so that leaves only a keyboard to go with the rodent.

Mouse precision with digital roll/thrusters is already superior to stick precision with analog roll/thrusters. Having mouse + entire keyboard of analog inputs will be sex.

is the hhkb a meme keyboard or is it worth the $225?

You could probably count the number of people in the world with a legitimate need for the layout and features on one hand.

No you can't

The layout is the best layout ever concieved

More like best maymay every conceived

I like the layout but some people say it feels cheap for something so expensive

the layout is too small there is no reason for """"hackers"""" who don't need their keyboard to be portable to not to have a row of function keys at least

...

It's PCB mount and thin plastic so it does feel a bit cheap. Honestly there's no excuse for a 60-key board of this build quality to cost so much, Topres or not.

Even the dip-switched firmware for changing layout defaults is incredibly lame compared to fully programmable yet far cheaper boards.

lol sounds like hhkb is D E P R E C A T E D

>PCB mount

Case mount, rather. It causes the whole top case to flex with each keystroke and give you that cheap feeling.

Steel battalion controller would be better.
Something like a Saitek Pro X-56 does not have enough buttons for E:D?

Leopold FC660C > HHKB. Doubly so with a Teensy mod.

amazon.com/Firstblood-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Adjustable/dp/B01JG37496/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474008251&sr=8-1&keywords=ajazz ak33 This layout is perfect for what I want for a workshop keyboard.

How much of a pain in the ass is it gonna be to take this thing apart to replace the swtiches?

How much of a pain is it gonna be to get a keycap set that includes that tiny right shfit?

this is incorrect

An entire HOTAS setup has enough switches, buttons and axes.

But then you're using a stick instead of a mouse and will get rekt by mouse players putting railgun slugs right through your power plant and never missing ever.

Search your feelings. You know it to be true.

...

Moba mouse plus the throttle from the HOTAS. Problem solved. No shitty keyboard needed.

if you get blank keycaps it shouldn't be too hard but you'll need extras in addition to the keycap set

esc and del will be messed up

What switches? It looks like something special.

Dome with sliders aka bad shit

what do u think, /mkg/?
amazon.com/gp/product/B01EMX5HI0/ref=s9_topr_hd_bw_bRCxpj_g147_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-11&pf_rd_r=6TFFPBG8J3DK6YB39NV7&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=d46ac2c9-c718-5e7e-8659-3af36f7676d9&pf_rd_i=402051011

amazon.com/gp/product/B01G26S0UC/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=9Y6C50X61E2XEWSSKYCG&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=6aad23bd-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop

Whats the cheapest option to get a keyboard without keycaps?

They both look like they belong in the chink shit thread.

i was about to suggest a razer keyboard but damn those things aren't cheap. but i still wouldn't recommend the ones you linked

Uhhhh...WASD offers barebones boards.

And I think that's it.

there's not much of a point, the keycaps don't add much to the cost, just get the keyboard you want and replace the keycaps

Fell for the Korean custom meme.

more like the shit keycaps meme.

geekhack
.org/index.php?topic=66567.0

None of that is from assdrop.

Did you do a Matura in Switzerland? Because that's a requirement for the course, apart from the fact that you'll have to be living in Switzerland too. The course is just for people who plan to attend electrical engineering at the school after this one-year course.

Kinda bought this since it was on discount. I was wondering if there was better option, considering:

>Budget
120€
>Location
Portugal
>Preferred switch type
No experience with mechanical, something with low resistance
>Layout
ISO
>Form factor
100% (because numpad)
>Backlight
Don't care
>Previous/current keyboards
Microsoft Keyboard 200 (randomly disconnected)
>Misc
Programmable keys (doesn't have to be gamer, I just couldn't find them on other keyboards)

>make a rubber dome keyboard with shoddy build quality
>reduce the layout as much as possible to cut manufacturing costs
>put a "premium" price tag on it
>market it to "hackers"

List on logical increments is shit and outdated

with 75% and below you can have your mouse really close to the typing area, that's the main appeal for me, it's more ergonomic and efficient

You're saying that as if the price tag isn't the best part of it

is a ducky 5 worth getting? ive never had a mechanical keyboard before

Cherry ML are kill, right?
Are there any other low-profile switches?

is that joshiraku translated or japanese

Kbp w/ PBT caps

its a shame they're only compatible with their own proprietary switches. idc about the analog bullshit I just want rgb tkl with switches that aren't reds or browns.

does the hhkb feel cheap since it's plastic and case mounted? can't decide if I want to buy it. earlier in the thread you said the pok3r was bad but it seems more well made

>idc about the analog bullshit
that's the entire point of it, you have plenty of other keyboards to choose from, tkl is like the most common layout after 100%

get some solid switch tops and you're golden

How do i turn off the arrow keys on the right side of my pok3r?

My fn, pn, control and right shift can't be used for their regular functions, and I'm not sure how to disable this mode.

Love the keyboard though!

I don't think any professional translator would want to do that to the Japanese language, or to himself for that matter.

No, it doesn't. The case mount is a seeking point of the HHKB since you get the nice sound of the stems hitting the plastic on the upstroke that the HHKB is famous for.

The pok3r is certainly more solid a construction, but it sucks as a keyboard for the reasons that I mentioned earlier.

left win + r alt + spacebar
it's in the manual
this is assuming you're on the latest firmware

Yep, that'll do it.
Thanks.

so you can read jap then? nice

>no markings on any of the keys

the most reddit keyboard ever made

What would you recommend? :)

so the hhkb is the best 60% keyboard available, in your opinion?

I know.

HHKB is a meme board.
Pok3r is the best board by far.

None of those are programmable.
Why buy a small form factor keyboard if you can't do that?

>Pok3r
>not programmable
What exactly do you want to program? If you wanna go full custom then make your own board, obviously.

Not really, it's a very nice keyboard, but I don't think there's a single "best" 60% out there.

If I were to design what I'd consider the best 60%, it'd have a metal switch mounting plate and a CNC'd metal case, both anodized. The keycaps would be 1.5mm thicc dyesubs. The case would be HHKB style, without any floating keycaps bullshit like some other mx-switch imitations of the HHKB layout have. The key layout would also be like that of the HHKB, but fully programmable.
That's assuming that I'd be using mx or alps style switches. If I were to use Topre switches, I'd just take the HHKB as it is and add full programmability, as well as make the keycaps a tiny bit thicker.

Anyone in Europe with a white alps keyboard for sale?

cherry profile?

preset layers and dip switches don't make it programmable.

I've narrowed it down to the pok3r, ducky mini, and hhkb. of those, I assume your pick would be the hhkb, no?

french here
planning on buying UK or nordic ISO, and the french 105 keycaps set
but would it fit like the originals ? does it have the same quality ?

is there other places where i can find french (or blank) keys for the Pok3r ISO ?

bumping for opinion

>reassign any key to whatever you want in any of the preset layers (including macros and combinations of keys)
>dip switches help to do this further
You're still not saying what you precisely want from it.

just pulled the trigger on this ebay listing: ebay.com/itm/252539746056

this is what i get for shopping on my lunch break while sleep-deprived. how bad did i fuck up /mkg/

Are topre-cherry compatability stems good or do they increase instability?

Disregard what I said I nean Alps-cherry

pls respond ;_;

what
>french 105 keycaps set
are you talking about?

>but would it fit like the originals ?
yes

>does it have the same quality ?
pok3r has decently thick pbt keycaps with legends that start fading within days, they aren't bad caps, but they certainly aren't the standard.

>is there other places where i can find french (or blank) keys for the Pok3r ISO ?
french azerty is a dead layout in terms of keycaps. there is not a good keycap set with the azerty legends made as of now

if you want blank you could get something like these
ukkeycaps.co.uk/product/gateron-thick-pbt-blank-keycaps-iso-ansi

Hm, I've been testing a lot of keyboard switches recently. Gateron, Cherry, Kalih, Outma, Greetech. After some trying I came to the conclusion that Gateron and Cherry are the ones I like most. Thing is though; as a teen I used to type on actual typewriters, and if my memory serves me well enough, none of the switches I tested (Bl.,R.,Grn.,Gry., etc) feel just as.. "snappy". Any ideas?

>french 105 keycaps set
>what are you talking about?

they are selling keycaps for the full keyboard version (105 keys) not for the 60% that is the pok3r

see corus-kb.com/fr/keycaps/70-vortex-vortex-pbt-keycaps-full-set-105-iso-fr-azerty-top-side-printed-.html

i only need to change few keys, so i was wondering if they have the same dimensions

Frenchfag here
You should use BÉPO with blank keycaps anyway

hmm i see

they would work yes, the keys are the same size on all keyboards, some just have less keys.
those don't have the side printing the pok3r has that shows the layered functions. and the legends will still fade quickly most likely.

if i were you i'd just get blanks, or a keyset that looks nice and treat them as blanks (just with incorrect legends)

i don't mind few od the keys with the side printing gone.
just wanted to confirm the dimensions, if it's the same that's the best move here for me.

i don't mind few of the keys with the side printing gone. *

i understand

i'm saying the legends on the pok3r fade within days of typing. weeks at most.

>ebay.com/itm/252539746056

For those who don't care to copy-paste the link, it is an Ortek MKB-84 SX (possibly a SIIG Suntouch Jr.)

i'm not that sure about the blanks

my other choice is a filco ...
you know what ?those pok3r sellers can go fuck themselves desu.

>typewriter

Buckling springs. Failing that, Matias tactiles.

>Budget
as cheap as it possibly gets. under 100€
>Location (continent at least)
Portugal
>Preferred switch type
brown or black
>Layout
doesn't matter, whatever is cheaper
>Form factor
TKL or full
>Backlight
no
>Previous/current keyboards
had an hpe 87 cherry mx blue (chinese filco replica) that I spilled hot sugary coffee on one too many times. have been using garbage keyboard for the last year or so cause broke.

basically I want the absolute cheapest shit there is.

nice, I'll look into them.
Are there any testers for buckling springs?

Do you have to oil mechanical keyboards?

pls say yes so I can laugh

>Budget
tell me what it takes.
>Location
DE (Germany)
>Switch type
tactile, optionally clicky. Blue-ish
>layout
Think of Space Cadet or similar, alternatively versatile enough/customizable
>form
full or TKL
>backlights
lights out! (no.)
>prev
nothing worth mentioning.

I've only seen the occasional custom made tester for buckling springs. They don't come as loose switches

I was afraid you'd say that, they didn't look like they can be removed (I only know them from gifs etc though). Guess I'll just get one and try it out. Thanks user!

You can lube them if you want, but normally no.

Probably, from what I've heard they're quite close to the Topre profile. Though I'll find out once my tada68 arrives.

Depends if you want Topre or not. I'd go for the HHKB, but a Ducky Mini with clears would be a close second, I actually still want to get one of those sometime.

>The case mount is a seeking point of the HHKB since you get the nice sound of the stems hitting the plastic on the upstroke that the HHKB is famous for.
>seeking noismakers that serve no haptic purpose whatsoever on a rubber dome board

>seeking
was actually supposed to spell "selling", thanks for that swipe keyboard.

>seeking noismakers that serve no haptic purpose whatsoever on a rubber dome board
Yes?
There's a silenced version that costs another 100 bucks if you'd prefer that.

It's like buying an overpriced hipster fixed gear bicycle and then sticking playing cards in the spokes because it doesn't sound like a motorcycle.