/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Actually it's the only performance difference between DDR3 and 4. The point of ddr4 is that you can overclock it without changing voltages ever, making high speed ram a safe, easy, and

SSD is not required but it is the most important part of the user experience. Having to sit and wait for stuff to load gets annoying really fast and you have to face that every single day when using the computer.

Just get a cheap ~128gb SSD. While it wont be a beast it'll run circles around mechanical harddrives.

you need more wattage from your psu

you dont need that mobo

here's my personal favorite build for around 1k. im 100% sure this will play anything on the market at max settings with ease

pcpartpicker.com/list/b9zdHN

you can play around with it. also like i posted for someone else the 1050 comes out in a month if you wanna save an extra 100 bucks

another thing. you dont need aftermarket coolers unless youre overclocking or the cpu doesnt come with one

my aspie friend got the noctua cooler but i think that shits a meme. the 212 will do just fine for 1/3rd the price

pcpartpicker.com/list/fXKVWX
Link related is going to be mainly used for Photoshop and gaymen (I already own a high end GPU so it wasn't included), does anyone have any experience with be quiet! cases?

Not him but when I ask about opinions outside of Cred Forums, Im always getting told that for overlocking I would need much more powerful cooler than 212.

I'm going to replace my aging HTPC (Celeron G1620 GTX 650), soon. Going to go with something small and quiet so no more discrete GPU.

Should I buy a Bristol Ridge chip or wait for the first ZEN APUs to come out?

Oh shit the one I picked was pretty pricey huh? Thanks for the info, I'll probably be doing more research until the cash comes in, so I could wait and see what's up with it.

Oh alright, I don't think I want to get into overclocking until I have a grasp on this whole PC building thing.

pcpartpicker.com/list/8HB6D8

Current build I own. Ignore the PSU and the case. PSU is ATNG (Korean I believe) and the case is some CyberPowerPC case. Originally purchased off of a coworker for $200. Only upgrades are the 1070 ($370) and the RAM ($55). PSU is the next planned upgrade, probably gonna be an EVGA G2 650-750, but where should I go from there?

Mostly used for gayman and making videos.

how is this cooler, the thermalright true spirit 140?

amazon.com/gp/product/B00IYEEOMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3D1M5ET5Z3YT6

someone told me it was excellent for the price but I can't find many comparisons online

>10000 rpm hdd
Y tho?

i think the evo 212 will do just fine. but. it all depends how much you overclock. i think the noctua is just quieter for the most part. it might do a SLIGHTLY better job at cooling

want to make a micro atx build for my parents, nothing complicated.
if i want it to be as low power as possible, while still being fast, what should I get?

I am thinking a g3258, 8gb ddr3, and a 128gb ssd?

no personal experience with it, but the reviews i've seen on jewtube make it look like a pretty fantastic case if you really feel like dropping two benjis on one.

It's faster than 7200rpm

meant to reply to
i'd also suggest the vector series instead of trion for mlc instead of tlc and a black series wd unless you REALLY want a 10000 rpm hdd.

please stop recommending the 212. the cryorig h7 is significantly better for only $5 more

What makes it better?

I'm afraid that it absolutely has to be gold. And it's not even xXGaMiNgXx thing. I would feel physically ill anything less than gold. It's a curse. This Corsair... a bit pricey. Thanks anyway.
Waiting is out of question, I need something now. EVGA or Seasonic... That doesn't help much.

I'd probably rather get an i3 to have 4 threads.
Would your parents really only need 128GB for their OS & all their files? Mine have quite a few GB of family photos that they backup occasionally.
Also, you wouldn't want to completely fill the SSD and lose data instead of capacity when sectors start to fail, would you?
Imo opinion bare minimum would be a 240/256GB ssd for normal usage.

lower temps, quieter, just better all around
people only recommend the 212 because they don't know better and it's very prevalent. people bought it when it was the best and keep suggesting it even though there are better options out there now

please respond

also apparently it's the true spirit 140 power version

it seems to get good reviews but there's only like two of them

It's like $20 used, so why not? Depends on your purpose

7/10
Get at least a 250GB SSD
Your HDD is expensive and small
PSU is expensive
$140 for Win7 is just embarrassing

Shitty build
No need for an unlocked CPU or Z170 mobo unless the user actually plans on OC
3TB hard drives are ridiculous prone to failure, with some models reaching 25%
Small SSD
If you're already using a z170 mobo, you should get 3000MHz RAM

Consider mini-ITX

I can't recommend the 8320 for gaming. Also AM3+ is a dead/overpriced platform if you're buying new. If anything the 8350 is what you want
SSD is small
1070 is overkill except for 1440p or 1080p 144Hz

I said I already own all of those parts. "Current build I own." I plan on upgrading to 1440p around tax season, but a new PSU is in my immediate future for sure. Was just curious if there's anything I should focus on upgrading afterwards short of going up to Skylake/waiting for Zen.

pcpartpicker.com/list/JqRxHN
Updated the drives, might just go with Windows 10 pro, and the PSU is pretty much what I want.

>i3
He's talking about a build for his parents, who will probably only browse the internet and maybe use skype.

Unless they have 80+GB of photos, more storage will probably be wasted unless they know how to torrent.

Depends on your current GPU, but don't bother buying a 1070 until you can get the new monitor with it. Prices are too high right now.

Storage is still lacking IMO, but you know your needs. If all your games and video editing files can't fit on the SSD, buy a new 250GB for games and use the old one for OS and other programs.

pcpartpicker.com/list/pwgjHN

something like that maybe?

80+ gold is closer to 89-90% on average.
80+ platinum is closer to 92%.

That said bronze and silver are only roughly 2-4% less efficient than an 80+ gold PSU, so you really aren't gaining much, especially on lower wattage PSUs like 600W. That's like 25W tops.

What you should look at is the price and quality/features of the PSU.
Full modular is nice, semi-modular is typically more reasonable, and non-modular is just fine too if you have room to tuck the excess cables away from other things.

Having an efficient PSU is not limited to enthusiasts and gamers you sperg.
If anything, you'd be retarded for getting a super high wattage PSU when you only need to deliver about 300-400W total, and that is a high estimate for even the typical gaming computer.

Try these ones out. Still somewhat pricey, but meets 80+gold standard for

ssd was something i was considering, so thank you for confirming that need. i already have the 1070, was $370 on jet. at $80 under msrp, it seemed like a good deal.

anyone have any thoughts on the new viewsonic 1440p gsync monitor?
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116827

Also, why would you wait for the 1050 when the 1050ti already exists for $200?
amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-GDDR5-Graphics-GV-N1060IXOC-3GD/dp/B01KQUD9U6/

Looks good. The cooler will come with paste, but it's always nice to have a tube of Arctic Silver laying around.

Pretty overkill for 'rents, plus that PSU won't fit

>i already have the 1070, was $370 on jet. at $80 under msrp, it seemed like a good deal
Aftermarket (not shitty FE) has an MSRP of $350. But enjoy your new GPU, it'll be slick.

Not him, but the standout feature of the 1050 is that it won't have any power connectors. Convert any shitty tower to a gaming rig!

Working on a budget build here ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Wcnh3F

My budget is around $900. I'm hoping to save money by using my old case (Antec Three Hundred) as well as my old monitor, both of which should still be compatible.

I also skimped on the RAM and went for 1x8GB.

Mostly going to be used for coding, artwork and some gaming.

Thoughts?

Looks good.

I might change the SSD to a 250GB (not much more expensive depending on brand) and the HDD to an HGST for reliability

So sorry about your currency

>It's like $20 used, so why not?
Don't know why not. Wikipedia says it allows DDR3-1333. I already know that I shouldn't worry about DDR speed because it doesn't matters, but I feel more secure asking first.

Also, I'm not in USA, so it's not US$20, it costs more. Like a cheap motherboard, a good PSU, or 8GB RAM.

>300-400W total, and that is a high estimate for even the typical gaming computer

Not for your typical non-480 AMD GPU build.

Not necessarily, since all that means is that it will draw power from the PCI-E slot instead of directly from the PSU. The difference is that the PCIe slot implies the card does not draw much over 75W as opposed to the ~150W limit of slot+6pin connector.

Maybe if your PSU was so shit that it didn't have a spare connector for the GPU I could understand, but the difference in wattage could still put a strain on such a shit-tier PSU just from the additional 75+W or whatever it draws from the slot.

The 950 had a 90W TDP and a 6-pin connector too, so the 1060 3GB version's 120W TDP and 6-pin connector is not a huge stretch.

I would expect the 1050 to also have a 6-pin connection requirement.

But the 212 is more than adequate and $5 less

You can always buy another stick of RAM a few months later so don't worry about that.

>MSRP of $350
Actually it's $380, which there was 2 1070s for that price 2 weeks ago
Now you cannot find one under $400 normally

Just note that there's no integrated graphics, so you'll need a graphics card.

>Not necessarily, since all that means is that it will draw power from the PCI-E slot instead of directly from the PSU.
No shit, Sherlock

>I would expect the 1050 to also have a 6-pin connection requirement.
>requirement
No, though some aftermarket models probably have one

>Actually it's $380
I stand corrected

>so you'll need a graphics card
I already have, this one, since 2008 at least:
>Nvidia Geforce 8400GS

>non-480 AMD GPU
That is not a typical gaming computer.
Most AMD users that don't get the 480 would find the 470 or 460.
The Fury's power requirements are far above the typical gaming computer's GPU, and most computers with intel CPUs do not overclock them significantly.

Your average i5 build today is roughly this:
65W: i5-6500
150W: gtx1070 or 120W gtx1060 or ~165W rx480
Which maxes you at 230W roughly.
If your computer also has a shitton of stuff in it, you might raise that to 300-350W.

>So sorry about your currency

You don't even know the half of it.

Most 950s had a 6-pin. Very few models did not.
amazon.com/ASUS-GeForce-Mini-Graphic-MINI-GTX950-2G/dp/B01FL6SYZU/
That was the only one I could find.
It's also a rather stupid argument because you can just forcibly throttle a GPU for a similar effect.

You don't know what you're fucking talking about

i´m planning in putting together the following for my cousin, the little guy wants it for gamming but he is definitely not a hardcore gammer and the heaviest i have ever saw him playing was garden warfare. I have some experience working on my own pc but this is the first time i put one together from zero, am i doing it right?

INTEL SKYLAKE I5 6500 3.2G S1151
GTX1060 6G DDR5 MSI GAMING X
GIGABYTE GA-H170M-D3H-GSM S1151
8GB DDR4-2400 KINGSTON FURY BL (x2)
SSD kingstone 120 gb
HD 1TB SATA3 64MB WD BLACK ED
750W XFX TS750 FULL WIRED PSU

im from argentina btw,

Which is better, Phenom II or Athlon II?

You can underclock your GPU, but if you cut the voltage too much you can cause problems for it.
There is likely a limit to how much you can throttle it yourself, like you can't turn a 1080 into a 750 just by underclocking, but you can slightly reduce its speeds and by extension its power consumption.

Care to explain how that's wrong?

>What you should look at is the price and quality/features of the PSU.
Oh believe me I am. I spent last few hours browsing jonnyguru.com. Still can't make up my mind.

Supernova G1 is too long (180mm), GS seems to be the best option. Thanks user.
>amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-GDDR5-Graphics-GV-N1060IXOC-3GD/dp/B01KQUD9U6/
In britbongistan it costs about 300$. So fuck that. Cheapest 1060 3gb costs 180£ (Palit), 6gb - 220£ (EVGA), used 970 - 170£, new - 190£ (Asus). Wat do?

Cool but in my case: irrelevant.

Western Digital Blac are loud and power hungry HDDs only suited for workstations.

The Western Digital Blue are the ones for normal consumers.

Also, NVIDIA themselves say that the 950 card is meant to have a 6-pin connector.
When its wattage is well over 75W, it is necessary, and the only way they can possibly sell the card without a 6-pin is to either reduce the performance of the card so it draws less, or have it strain your PCI-E slot with its 90W tdp.

Get 2x 4GB DDR4, you can always upgrade later easily with another 2x 4GB. Also that board only supports 2133MHz if I'm not mistaken

PSU is too strong, 450W will be enough
SSD is a little small, but fine
6GB 1060 is overkill if he's a light gamer

Can't answer without more info about purpose

So fucking what? The 1050 is on a smaller node = less power draw.

1060 is about 120W
tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-1060-pascal,4679-6.html

1060 has 1280 CUDA cores, 1050 will have 768 CUDA cores and significantly less RAM, which has a big effect on power draw for these cards
>768 / 1280 * 120 = 72W

They're clearly aiming for a card that doesn't NEED a 6-pin. Questions?

Currently have:

Intel Core i5 2500K
8 Go (2 x 4 Go) DDR3 1333MHz Corsair
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti (MSI)
P67A-GD65 (MS-7681)

Looking to have better performances in Source Filmmaker and similar 3D programs, also have video editing projects on Adobe Premiere with 4K footage.

Budget: 200-300€, can go up to 400€ if it's really worth it, living in France.

So I built my computer yesterday. Windows 10 was shitting out when I was downloading torrents, and doing basic computer stuff. I was confused I thought my pc was good.

But I have two slow hard drives in my desktop, and windows task manager said I was using the disk at 50%. But I think in reality that meant I was using one of my hard drives at 100%, right? I switched the torrents to be downloaded on the hard drive not running windows and now things run fine. And now task manager says I'm using "disk" at over 50%. So I thought I'd fixed it.

But now my torrent client is only downloading at 10kB/s on the hard drive not running windows.

>too long
Sorry, you didn't really mention an exact limit as far as length goes. Hope the GS works out for you though!

As far as your GPU issue goes, I would not buy a new 970.
I also couldn't find you a better priced 1060 3GB, sorry.
I suppose if you could actually find it for 180L that would probably be best.
Most that I saw looked to be around 190L-200L for the 3GB version, but maybe amazon.co.uk is just kinda shit?

Buy R9 Fury from germany for 300€.

Okay, but the gtx 960 and gtx 1060 have identical 120W tdp according to Nvidia.
Why would the 950 --> 1050 be different?

Also I don't think that power directly scales from CUDA count. If you are going to trust wcctech's claims on CUDA and VRAM, the GTX 1050 would also have more VRAM than the GTX 1060 3GB.

That sounds ridiculous, and I am surprised that you are so adamant about this.

I ordered a FX 6300 and the mATX case on the left.
I'm going to add 1 stick 8gb 1600MHz dd3 ram, 256 SSD, and a generic 500W PSU.
Like this: pcpartpicker.com/list/PpV9cc

I would use mainly Firefox and Eclipse on the pc with some Debian distro on it. Maybe also use it to work remotely by ssh-ing with my laptop.

Would adding a GPU help with performance in my case?

>Okay, but the gtx 960 and gtx 1060 have identical 120W tdp
TDP means little
tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-960,4038-8.html
Also both the 960 and the 950 have 2GB VRAM. In this case the 1060 has 6GB while the 1050 will have a 2GB config.

>I am surprised that you are so adamant about this.
I'm surprised that you don't see the light

The FX 6300 has no integrated GPU, so you'll need an old graphics card at the least, unless you're going completely headless and even then you'll need one for OS installation

The power doesn't scale to cores what the fuck
It's that pascal magic bruh
Like you're trying to be condescending but you yourself have no clue either

Things get more efficient dude it what happens
Ideally a GPU does no actual work energy so it should eventually come down to like a single watt, just the power used to send the signal
You get 119 watts of inefficiency

Thanks.

I did:
>It can't be too long, because in this case PSU is mounted face down (modular cables could cause problems).
Amazon in UK is fine, just not for GPUs.

Huh... I must admit I totally missed that idea. Thanks.

Power consumption doesn't scale perfectly with core/sp ratio, but 4GB less VRAM and a slower clockspeed (which will give more than a linear benefit to power consumption) clearly make up the difference

This is my last reply to you

pcpartpicker.com/list/JqRxHN
Might upgrade to a 1080 Ti when they come out, mostly for photoshop/gaming.

I did things to your build
pcpartpicker.com/list/ZxCWtJ
You can still overclock this, by the way. But why would you want to?

>Can't answer without more info about purpose
Checking benchmark is enough to determine?

>1400$ water-cooled i7 build
>artic silver
>for 12$
Nigga what are you doing?! Get Prolimatech PK-3 or Noctua NT-H1. Costs same/less and is far more effective.

thanks a lot pal, i was thinking the SSD just for running the windows, you recommend a bigger one?
Also, since the 1060 is over, there is anything you would recommend?

thank you buddy

From the last thread, can anyone explain how this is a scam?

Yeah, 250GB is about right. My 120GB is cramped with even two AAA games.

3GB 1060 will be fine, really it depends on how much you want to spend.

Not exactly a scam, but your texture options won't be Ultra even at 1080p for a lot of AAA games.

I assume this is about the 1060 3G?
3GB of VRAM is low for todays standards and the 1060 3G is deliberately clocked down and gimped. It's simply a bad card that will soon be obsolete.
RX460/470 are better options at this point, the normal 1060 is fine, though.

You can get a real 1060 on sale (gotta wait) for nearly the same price
The 6GB 1060 is more than worth the

Yeah I liked having the condfidence that nvidias newest lineup is almost resolution based. You want 1080p maxed out every time? 1060. You want 1440p120fps? 1070. You want 4K and like... 40fps? 1080
The 1060 3G can't even smash through 1080p at higher frame rates, that's just whack, especially when a 980 will

>1440p120fps? 1070

That's stretching it quite a bit.

>460

I dunno man, I mean for a 100 bucks I thought it was a pretty decent card, then I went to compare it with my old 560 on CPU benchmark.

Granted, VRAM does play into it, but is the 460 an okay if you're on a tight budget or would it be better to wait and get a bigger budget.

>1070 running modern games at 120 FPS even on 1080p with good settings
>let alone at 1440p

Pajeet pls

>an okay deal if you're on a tight budget or would it be better to wait and get a bigger budget for a bigger card?

And 470 is out of the question, something weird is up with the pricing on that thing.

Fixed, my bad.

>The 1060 3G can't even smash through 1080p at higher frame rates
Not really true, it's only 10% slower than the full 1060 in most games

Ya can just turn down a few settings senpai, but locked 120 ain't happening on all games.

>ordered stuff from NCIX
>they request that stupid small deposit verification shit, takes a couple days for that
>day 4, they finally ship the components, minus the case
>the case, which was in stock when I ordered it, now shows 'back order' on their website

In the same time, I've received the components I ordered from Newegg. Does NCIX reserve orders once they're paid for? I'll be pretty pissed if they charged me for something that was in stock, only for it to actually end up as a back order after a full work week, without even informing me of it.

Complain and demand a discount

>1080 only averages 130fps at 1080p
>1070 is better than Titan X
This makes me feel better about my $420 spent

144Hz monitors confirmed meme

This is why I stopped using NCIX. I ordered three motherboards for two clients and myself. One of them came in (a client's) and the other two had been charged for, but was listed as "Out of Stock" when I checked online. I called their customer service and they said that they shipped my remaining motherboards out, but a week past and I still didn't receive a shipping number or an invoice. They refunded me once I called back, but by then I'd already lost the other customer who got tired of waiting.

If you don't play competitive shooters maybe.

What exactly does gsync do? I know the games tested here are likely power hungry as fuck but this might change my monitor decision
Is it refresh rate and GPU fps locked together or something?

tomshardware.com/forum/id-2430256/diffrence-nvidia-vsync-gsync.html
basically removes screen tearing.

Hello, Cred Forums. I bought an AM3+ motherboard on the Internet, and found these plastic supports are missing! Should I open a claim to request these items?

There's a piece of plastic on my CPU socket that's the CPU right I didn't put my i7 in if it already had one

It's been over seven years since I've last built a pc and I'm looking to spend 600$, Anyone got any advice before I start picking parts out?

Is 16g ram the new approaching standard, are ssds worth it?, are the new mid tier gpus they released about two months ago good enough to hold their own for two years or so?

I think that's a type of cooler mount, if it is, it probably comes with the cooler if it uses that mount

>Is 16g ram the new approaching standard
No, 16 GiB RAM are a meme.
>are ssds worth it?
Yes
>are the new mid tier gpus they released about two months ago good enough to hold their own for two years or so?
Yes, as long you only play on 1080p.

My Akasa Nero uses this support, but it's not included with the cooler.

8GB of ram is just now getting to be a limit, so you're good with only 8 for now
At least one SSD is worth it, they're unarguably faster and nicer but booting up is where it the most noticeable
The new gpus are great this year, the rx 480 has the mid-lower end on lock imo and the GTX 1070 can do everything except 4K

That's the stock cooler mount, so you can find replacements online. The reason why it's missing is probably because the owner had a custom cooling solution on his board before he sold it and lost the original brackets. Most aftermarket coolers do come with their own brackets for their coolers, so buy one.

AMD here, not Intel.

See:

Sounds good, thanks for advice.

e-mail Akasa and they might send you replacement mounts free of charge. I know Silverstone, Noctua, and Phanteks send theirs for free if it wasn't included as part of your kit.
>Akasa Nero
Might want to consider another cooler with a metal mounting clip. The plastic clips on most AMD boards are notorious for breaking if not handled carefully.

pcpartpicker.com/list/GdRxHN
Improve my build.
Black/orange theme with a focus on silence and performance (should I replace my HDD with a SSD?)
Purpose: 3D modelling, video editing, music production and gaming. I want it to last a fair while. Note that I own a 1080p 144hz GSync monitor. CPU cooler is a placeholder until be quiet! releases their Silent Loop AIO.
Budget: ~$2.6K USD
Country: Australia

8GB is enough. 16GB is for budgets closer to $1k that feel that it could somehow be useful.
SSDs aren't really worth it, so just stick to a 128gb or 240gb boot+programs drive and store your other media on a HDD. SATA3 drives are the cheapest for this, and don't require a new port that the current fastest SSDs use.
Definitely make sure that your motherboard and case support USB 3.0.

For $600 I would stick to a nice i3 CPU, mid-range GPU, 8GB RAM, and boot drive SSD with a 2TB HDD for the main components of the computer.
Pick any $50-60 case.
Pick a modest H110 chipset motherboard (should not run over $70).
Smaller form factors are not as expensive, but make sure you can fit as many expansion cards as you want on your motherboard without issue.
That's about it.

Plastic clips?
It uses this metal lever, is this that you are talking about?

X99 motherboards and 2011-3 socket CPUs get extremely expensive extremely quick for very little advantages (other than a better model of CPU). I'd go with a Z170 motherboard and a 6700k.
EATX is dumb imo especially on a X99 board unless you specifically need a ton of PCIe slots.
That's like 10x the amount of thermal paste you need and it probably already comes with the cooler
That's an expensive SSD, but the 950 pro M2 SSD is expensive but also much faster
A 1080 is too much power and price for me personally but I would love to have it if I had the money
I hear that specific HDD is loud
Everything else looks ok

>color theme

No, I meant the plastic mounts, not the clips. If you put too much pressure on the clip during the installation, the mounts can crack. I had a Raijintek cooler that also used the same type of clip. It shattered the plastic mounts after I took it off for replacing the thermal paste.

My 5 grams of thermal paste has lasted over 3 coolers and seems to have more to go

>No, I meant the plastic mounts, not the clips.
The ones circled inside red rectangles in this picture?

Thoughts on this build?

pcpartpicker.com/list/pxzL9W

Optimally, I'd like to drop the price figure much lower. Anywhere that I'm wasting money/not getting best bang for the dollar?

Thanks.

There's nothing wrong in not wanting my build to look like a bricolage of multicoloured vomit.

When buying the mobo, even though 8Gb is good now, should a person try and get one that has 4 slots? Or is that overkill given the fact that 2 slots can still allow for 16Gb ram?

Yes

If I can get them for free, I will get them whatever material they are made.

pcpartpicker.com/user/Ascross/saved/QGt6hM

How'd I do Cred Forums on making the cheapest build possible?
Goal was sub 500, now it's sub 400.

Just about reached it, anything I"m missing?

OK, e-mail sent.

That seems like a mATX vs ITX kinda thing, not just motherboard preference since most non-ITX ones have 4 slots or more. You could get 2x4 then 2x4 later or 1x8 now, 1x8 later and 2x8 when you grow up and get a job that needs powerful software with powerful ram needs

1x8 vs 2x4

Is it true that two sticks are better than one? And how important is the ram speed? Do certain CPUs only allow a max ram speed before the extra speed becomes useless, or is it only Mobo dependent?

It's true, but super insignificant, not worth giving up upgrade room
All the skylake 1151 CPUs support overclocked ddr4 I believe, and Z170 H170 and some other motherboard all support overclocked ddr4. Overclocked ram can make a noticeable difference if you're jumping from stock 2133mhz to something crazy like 4200mhz. It's worth few buck extra if you have the motherboard, but it's rarely, if at all noticeable on anything but the most memory-hogging uses
For a budget build of any kind that you don't plan on CPU overclocking (which you'd need a z170 board for anyways), stick with stock 2133mhz and non-z170 and save a little bit of money
I'd say 2x4 is good because 16gb is a good place to upgrade to (if you're not using memory hog programs that are designed for huge ram)
But 1x8 allows you to upgrade to 32gb later, which you would already know if you needed

RAM clock frequency is not very important. Dual channel is faster than single channel.
Most DDR4 motherboards support 2133MHz
You will have to get a Z170 chipset motherboard to utilize higher RAM clock frequencies, even if the RAM sticks themselves support higher clock speeds.
When you use a Z170 motherboard you select XMP profiles for your RAM to utilize the speeds that have the * next to them in the motherboard RAM compatibility listings (2133, 2400*(OC),2600*(OC),3000*(OC), etc.).

It is not really worthwhile to consider this unless you are going for a high end build with an overclockable CPU and GPU.
Z-170 motherboards start around $85 in some cases, but are usually between $100-$130.
They can often be double the price of a normal motherboard, so make sure the performance you can gain from overclocking is worth the investment.

Is there any info on when the Dancase will come back in stock? Or when the Zaber Sentry will be available?

what's the deal with 200mm fans? why don't more cases utilize them? they're literally godtier
>cheap
>quiet
>high CFM
literally the only reason I'm still using my HAF 912 is because I can fit two 200mm

There's poorfag, and then there's 3rd world poorfag.
Been camping in a local sale forum and sniping some deals, not the best but better than average. So far I have gotten mobo, cpu, RAM, PSU and case, there's only HDD and monitor left.
What do you guys think about labelless WD drives?

What should I upgrade first? I have a budget of ~200-350 dollars, thinking about upgrading my cpu/mobo first, but im not sure.

>Get an SSD
I have been thinking about it, but I am patient with things like that. Some games run better with them (so ive heard) but i dont feel like that is a priority with me.

>cpu/mobo
This is a problem, if I want to upgrade my cpu, I also have to replace my motherboard, and with ~300 bucks at most, I can get an ir 6500, but with only like 100 bucks for a mobo, while all the older intel cpu's are super high at retail.

>gpu
I definantly want to upgrade this, but the problem is, is that my cpu will more then likely bottleneck the newest generation of graphics cards, and maybe even AMD's last gen (R9 390 is 300 bucks retail, and the 900 series of nvidia gpu's are relatively the same price, but would rather get AMD's 300 series due to Vulkan/DX12?)

>Monitor
Im fine with 900p, and dont feel like shilling out 70 bucks for 1080p.

>what's the deal with 200mm fans?
Larger fans = more air moved at lower rpm
>why don't more cases utilize them?
Because they're large and you could fit more smaller fans that can push even more air evenly. There is a massive dead spot behind the fan hub because the air is ejected in a funnel. Smaller fans in a line reduce those dead spots with overlapping air at the expense of turbulence.

Anyone?

And yes, I just noticed my username there.

Changed my build from yesterday. Changed to a MSI 1070 Seahawk X since it was just a little more expensive than the Zotac I wanted but it liquid cooled with reviews saying it works well.
Opinion: should I instead consolidate all the money I'd be spending on multiple hard drives into a single larger SSD? When it comes to storing videos and music, does it matter?

Well, you could do what I heard one guy did back at my college-

Have multiple harddrives synchronized to each other so if one blows out, your PC is still going.

Or something like that, never looked up how he did that.

>brand new build $1500
>wont boot, no lights, no fan
>troubleshooting faqs don't help

holy shit why

am i going to have to take it in to geek squad?

So I just built my first pc. And installed windows 10.

Everything just werks, in speccy all my hardware is recognized. Do I have to update the drivers for my graphics card or is that done automatically? I have a cd that came with it but I haven't used it yet.

With Windows 10 you don't >have to< since it updates drivers on its own unless you explicitly tell it not to, but it's recommended that you go and grab the latest driver from Nvidia or AMD's website for your graphics card. Don't use the CD, it will most definitely contain an outdated driver.

This isn't a building question exactly, but I think it's related enough that I shouldn't start my own thread.
I've installed Windows 7 SP1-U on a computer that I built for a friend. Windows Update was stuck on "checking for updates" for hours so I looked for a solution and came across the "convenience rollup" which sounded exactly like what I wanted. So I installed it along with its prerequisites and started Windows Update again, but it's still stuck on "checking for updates" for hours.
Is there anything else I can do, or is this just what everybody has to deal with when updating from a fresh Windows 7 install these days?

>little more expensive
>$97 more than it should be
The pascal shit really makes these gpus power efficient, even the most basic fan is fine for normal OCs or stock

what is this? it's on the back of my nzxt h440 case and says extention cable. is it nothing i need?

Before you all say it I know it's overkill, but thanks to my job as a technician I can afford it. Haven't bought anything yet, am waiting until my next paycheck. What do you guys think?

pcpartpicker.com/list/f3d7RG

fucking read the manual, or at least post a picture where it's possible to see what the fuck you're talking about.

That case looks like shit, especially for $200, and what the fuck do you need 4 5.25" and 6 3.5" bays for?

Just because it has that many slots doesn't mean I will use them all. I like the case for its looks.

I'm in the same boat with almost identical specs. Get an SSD, it's worth it. Wait til Zen/Kaby Lake to upgrade CPU/mobo. If you find a good deal on a GPU (probably 1060/Rx 460/70) jump on it. Check thrift stores for monitors. I got a 24" Dell at 1920x1200 60hz for $15.

if my 24 pin on my mobo is even a little bit 'wiggly' will this cause problems with boot? my mobo is not responding at all despite my psu being fine

>kaby lake
Don't do this. It only supports windows 10 and he has win7.

You are overpaying for a PSU you don't, and will never, need. Step down to an HX850i or equivalent Seasonic at least.
Your AIO is shit.
Your case is shit.
Your motherboard isn't a WS model.

>shitting on that case
It's really not that bad looks wise. It's still conservative relative to much of the market while still having some stylistic interest. Plus that gunmetal color scheme is the best out of the lineup.

having so much trouble getting the 24pin into my mobo

evga 550w
msi krait gaming z17a

the mobo wants to snap

Anyone here own an ADATA SSD?
Would like to get a 120GB just for my OS, and it's pretty cheap.

how do you short/test an msi krait gaming motherboard? i can't find a single video or guide.

if you can't find the problem. just rebuild it with minimal requirements like 1 ram module, cpu, cpu fan, psu, also make sure your case button, I/O cables are in place.

maybe watch some guide on youtube.

Read the manual.

maybe it's for extending the cables from PSU. read the manual.

just fuck my shit up famiglia

It's called raid nigger

No SSD?

At least one of the cheap kingston ones could work.

well I figured I would just use the HDD to store everything, but would getting an SSD even be necessary?
newb here pls don't ravage me

SSD is much faster.

Windows boots up in like 10 seconds or so, depending on what you get.

Also, just my thing-
But if you get 2x4 ram, it allows the mobo to use dual channel ram making it a bit faster.

well, time isn't really an issue for me, so if SSD only affects startup times, I'm good keeping the huge chunk of memory. Unless you think getting SSD for installing OS and then a 1 TB HDD for everything else might be better? not too sure

Are 120mm or 140mm fans better for static pressure? Should I use one over the other even if my case supports both sizes?

>so if SSD only affects startup times
It affects everything that reads or writes data from or to the SSD.
You put your software and games on there, it'll affect your load times.
You use it as a landing zone for torrents, you might see significantly faster downloads if your connection is fast enough for an HDD to freak out.
You do video editing and use it as your scratch disk, you'll see exponentially better performance overall.
And the list goes on. Anything and everything that uses the drive is affected.

Optimally, I'd recommend you grab at least a 500 GB SSD for your OS and all your software, along with one or more HDDs of whatever size suits you. You can always add more storage space later, but migrating your OS drive is a chore.

Get at least a 120 if not 250GB SSD
No reason for a z10 mobo if you're buying a locked CPU

Check reviews and warranty

Remove all but one stick of ram and the discrete graphics if you have integrated

Your loss, get rid of one 1080 and spend the savings on a ladiboi fagoot

Can't see shit, you're shaking like a heroin addict under withdrawal

Make sure the firewall isn't blocking if you've installed one

Update to latest drivers

Could be DOA mobo, but watch a build video. Call craigslist tech if all else fails and watch what he does

If changing anything just get a 4TB HGST HDD

well I figured I'd buy the z10 mobo for future investment, but what other mobo should I nab then?

I'll look into a 500gb SDD then

Thanks guys!

Fuck 'investment', you think your mobo returns money to you?

If you're going to XF/SLI later you can get one, but unless you have definite plans just get H110 or h170

Zen/Kaby Lake. Either or. Whatever's best for your situation when the time comes.

If you GENUINELY plan on overclocking or needing all those PCIe lanes, go for it. If OCing makes you uncomfortable or seems unnecessary, save the money. Kaby and Cannon are both supposed to be 1151 though, so it's up to you. If it's for the long haul, make sure you get a solid one.

>Kaby and Cannon are both supposed to be 1151
Source?

>Make sure the firewall isn't blocking if you've installed one
Thanks, but that wasn't the issue. After some more searching I found that downloading and installing the "July 2016 update rollup" manually would fix my problem. Turns out it did.

So to summarize the install+update procedure that worked for me in case it will help others out.
After a fresh install of Windows 7 SP1-U, manually download the following and install them in this order:
kb3020369 (April 2015 servicing stack update for Windows 7 and Windows Server 2008 R2)
kb3125574 (Convenience rollup update for Windows 7 SP1 and Windows Server 2008 R2 SP1) *Requires IE since you have to download it from a site that uses ActiveX for some god-awful reason.
kb3172605 (July 2016 update rollup for Windows 7 SP1 and Windows Server 2008 R2 SP1)

updated list. how's it lookin'?

Looks good, get a HDD if you don't have one

Hello /pcbg/

A while ago somebody recommended I pirate windows, so I got Win 7 U SP-1 and a product key, but where do I go from there? Does the .iso come with macrohards le genuine advantage™ crap already installed? How do I get rid of that if it is?

Sorry about stupid questions, I don't really get to change OSes often.

what he said. you can get a 1tb WD black series for around $60-70 for everything that's not important.

Just what it said on Wikipedia. Kaby Lake should be, Cannon Lake is rumored to be. I'm not sure if Cannon is confirmed or not.

Use KMSPico if pirate, otherwise just enter you genuine key when prompted. Pick a good / fully updated iso

>A while ago somebody recommended I pirate windows, so I got Win 7 U SP-1 and a product key
>pirate windows... so I got a product key
Okay, so at least one of us is confused here. A person generally pirates Windows because they don't have a product key.
>but where do I go from there
Either burn the ISO to a DVD, or write it to a USB drive and then install it to your computer.
>Does the .iso come with macrohards le genuine advantage™ crap already installed?
Windows Genuine Advantage is just a name they gave to the authentication system used by various Windows services. If you have a product key or pirate Windows correctly you have nothing to worry about.

also, what do you plan on using your computer for?

occasional gaming, watching videos, homework, collecting memes, and [spoiler]shitposting on 4chang[/spoiler]

just normalfag stuff, the usual

no money for the new sockets anyways edition

can run apu only @45w for general shitposting and school work, use apu @65w xfire with 250 for some light gaming. possibly oc the igp.

What's the quietest and coolest 1070?

or skimp even more and spend the rest on beer?

>[spoiler]
clearly videogames

You can get cheaper RAM as well as a much cheaper SSD. Also, idk about that case, could be a disappoiment.

Research the best APU for the games you want to play, probably don't need discrete graphics. Add in the SSD if you're not super poor

a8 seems to be the best perf$ out there the r7 beats the new intel 530 and at 65w it's 3.3-3.8, I can afford the $400 the card is on sale for sub $50 might as well. never had a ssd so one would be nice.
gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Intel-HD-530-Desktop-Skylake-vs-AMD-Radeon-R7-Graphics/m33102vsm8791
Dont really need power but my main is way long in the tooth. I should probably wait to see what the new amd apus can do.

tantalum capacitors a shit

...

Shit, this case makes one good sleeper PC

wait for one with 4 fans

Am I retarded?
pcpartpicker.com/list/BZhXkT

Anyone can answer this? It's not exactly BUILDING a PC, but I wanna know if I can get Dell to prebuild a certain type of laptop

Would I be able to order a laptop from Dell that supports 3 external (and the regular internal) monitors as well as 4 hard drives, and optical drive, and >4 USB ports

I mainly wanna just ask, since I don't wanna call them yet, since I'm not ready to order

Also, preferentially, dual-CPU, but that's not entirely necessary

>Alternatively
>Is this fucking retarded, and should I just get a Travel Cube in addition to a regular desktop?

>Alternatively, alternatively
>Where can I find a laptop shell and motherboard that can do this kind of ridiculous bullshit?

So, I'm building this pc here.
What I want from you is either recommend a better part for it (value for money-wise). No, I won't change the case, thank you. I also want a recommendation on RX 480 vs gtx 1060 (actually the Nvidia one is cheaper). Thanks!

PAY DENBTS
A
Y

D
E
N
B
T
S

Get the Nvidia 6G if it's cheaper.

Ι need something that will last longer. RX 480 has 8G VRAM and seems better optimised on DX12. I'm really bugged on this one.

Dell XPS 15 should be able to do this if you get a thunderbolt dock. Its going to cost a lotta money though

>1060 6G cheaper, with no updated drivers in the future, DX11, lower energy consumption
>480 8G more expensive, with no drivers now, but future updates an DX12, higher energy consumption
Pick your poison, gyros man. I'd probably go with the 480 if i were you.

if you are from saloniki, buy from visionstudio faggot

Not him, but, funny enough, in Poland custom RX 480 and 1060 cost the same. RX 480 was suppoed to cost less, but in the end, there was a little shitstorm between shops and wholesales, each blaming the other for inflated prices.

I'll look into it further, but off the bat, it doesn't seem like that'll work.. =/

The laptop itself definitely doesn't look like it can handle more than 2 hard drives, let alone 3-4, and the ones on the site seem to indicate you only get 1.
Although optional, nothing seems to indicate dual processors at all. 8GB of RAM isn't even close to enough

And I want FreeBSD to be the primary boot, so the high level of Windows-tuning isn't good/necessary for me. It DOES need a secondary boot in Windows for some work and shit, but that looks WAY to under powered and WAY too small.

I wish I asked that Engineering student I went to school with what his laptop brand was... I don't think I have any networks in common with him either, so I can't even get in contact with him
It was one fat mother fucking laptop, but I don't care, as long as
>specs.
It heated up like a bitch and needed special cooling and power supplies, and I think when he closed it, it was like 1½-2 inches thick...

Maybe I should basically list bare minimum specs:
>32GB RAM (64 might be better, but 32 will work) 2133MHz (don't care about OC, though)
>virtualization
>AT LEAST octo-core i7 running >3GHz; preferably Xeon or dual-Xeon though
>Minimum of 3 separate INTERNAL hard drives, 2 SSD for operating systems and 1-2 HDD @ 9000 RPM for storage and media
>Dedicated graphics card of AT LEAST 3-4 GB VRAM.
>MUST support 2 external monitors, but an extra might be nice (minimum triple-screen configuration)
>Optical drive, preferably Blu-ray
>4 USB ports MINIMUM, but preferably like 8, so I do NOT need a bunch of external hubs; I already have to play Tetris for like an hour whenever I take my current laptop anywhere. I'd prefer to drop as many external hubs as possible.
>GOOD Wi-Fi card, preferably A, N, AC

Primary uses: YouTube, Cred Forums, programming (including graphical), office shit, editing (mostly images and video), and shouldn't fuck up too much with AI (why I need the RAM and VRAM. shaders, Cred Forumsro).

What are some good affordable mini-ITX cases with space for SSD, HDD and full-size GPU?

Anyone seen any good PSU deals around recently?
I'm looking for a 400~500W replacement to mine with a required 6pin but finding good PSU deals is a terrible experience.

Just built my desktop. I plug in my monitor, turn it on, and nothing happens. The monitor is getting no signals. Just a blank screen.
I've tried both hdmi and vga.

I have a b150 gigabyte mobo. I've tried spamming the delete key, with the keyboard plugged into multiple USB ports.

Any ideas?

Also, I have no hdd connected, as it's arriving tomorrow. But, I tried with my old hdd, and the problem persists.

Same in Germany, Gigabyte 1060 6G costs 278€ and Sapphire 480 8G 280€.
You can flip a coin at this point.

My old PC just broke and UPS refunded me 2400$.I usually play vidya and do 3D modeling, should I start buying this, wait for 1080ti or elsei?
pcpartpicker.com/list/2RsN6X
I will be studying in Italy for a couple of years so I think I'm going to buy them here in europe.

Why the prices are like that in Europe anyway?

Better get
mindfactory.de/product_info.php/8192MB-MSI-Radeon-RX-470-GAMING-X-8G-Aktiv-PCIe-3-0-x16--Retail-_1115921.html

That's why.

Thank's, but i'm not interested in getting a new card, just took the first price of reputable brands for each card i could find.

IS MY MOTHERBOARD / CPU DEAD?

I have a gigabyte b150 ds3h, and I get no beeps when I turn it on.

I can't find any information specific to this mobo, so I don't know if it should beep.
All cpu, case and gpu fans turn on, ram lights come on etc.
But there is nothing displaying on the monitor, or any beeps.

What do.

HELP ME PLEASE

check your psu, cpu

What should I be checking for?

your cpu paste and fans, cpu socket power connected to the PSU, and check for a faulty PSU voltage supply. Also replace ram sticks, check your gpu connection. Do the fans spin? Is the mobo light or peripherals turning on?

Just bought myself an SSD and about to install win10 on it. Any settings i should make ?

>about to install win10 on it
Don't do this.

Why? Its good OS.

It would be better, if he would install Enterprise/Edu, but overall, it is not that bad.

but i wanna try DX12

SSDs have really expensive $/GB.
Installing the most bloated OS in existence on it is a bad idea for the wallet.

Don´t buy AiO cooler get a good Aircooler which cost like 20-30$ less but actualy don´t destroy your computer because it start to leak after a few years or has annoying pumpnoise.
Alpenföhn,Thermaltake,Phantek,Noctuna are good stuff

Get a Samsung SSD, PRO(not EVO) because Photoshop profits from it, also its fast for gayman.
The HDD is loud as fuck, get a WD Black and its ok.

Don´t buy be quiet, if you want a really good PSU spent like 10$ more and get the Seasonic Prime 650W and behappy to use it until you die because they don´t break.

Don´t buy be quite fans... Zahlman, Papst, Noctuna, Scythe are the guys you want.

pcpartpicker.com/list/bNqn6X

Could actually swap the mobo for the ASRock itx and power the system off of an external DC power brick if you wanted. Should be plenty for general usage. The cooler isn't necessary at all, I just threw it on there because it was 10$.

m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIABP94H11600

Look up the Johnny guru review for this one if you'd like.

should i buy the amd rx 480?
Is good?

pcpartpicker.com/list/mRVz6X
$550 dx12 rig

Does it?
Most pizzabox cases like that I see do not have full height expansion slots, which limits you to low profile cards.
Also, is your case made for a standard form factor of motherboards such as matx or atx? Otherwise you're probably going to have a hard time mounting the motherboard.
A lot of those cases also feature their own built in psu, so make sure that yours doesn't or that it can actually power your build.
They usually won't be over 350W if they came with the case though.

Your case appears to be somewhat larger than the ones I've seen, so who knows.
If it works out for you, congrats!
Now if only they had a matching colored lcd monitor to go with such a case.

how big paste tube i need to get?

Looks like a fan extension cable.

I have a 64gb adata that I used as an os drive for years. Not the fastest, but a hell of a lot faster than a platter. Has a copy of cubuntu installed on it that I slap into systems for testing from time to time.

Crucial or Ocz ssd would do you nicely. Don't get anything more than an h170 mobo with that cpu. Atx is likely a waste for you, just go micro.

Personally, I would suggest a cheap 120gb for os and core applications, then a separate ssd for everything else like games, large programs etc, if it fits in the budget that is. Then you have a platter for all your media consumption, backups, and whatever else.

Raijintek metis
Phanteks evolv itx
Just off the top of my head.

New build or recent development?

It's pretty great if you can get it at retail. Obviously add 20-30$ for custom coolers.

So where can I still get Windows 7 images from Microsoft without a key?

All other previous methods I've used have been patched.

If you're just installing a cpu cooler then all of them will have far more than you'll ever need.

I'm pretty sure there's no way you can get all that in anything you could really call a laptop.

Import costs + taxes(remember that VAT or sales tax is around 20% in most of Europe and it's already factored into the price). That, and since the stores have lower volume compared to US, they need higher margins to be profitable.

Lol
Get a thinkpad
It's literally already more computer than you know what to do with

prove to me that my temps are wrong
HWMonitor and Speccy show the same temps

how exactly are the temps wrong and how do I check the actual temp if it's wrong?
tell me

This was almost doable right until these two:
>>AT LEAST octo-core i7 running >3GHz; preferably Xeon or dual-Xeon though
>>Minimum of 3 separate INTERNAL hard drives, 2 SSD for operating systems and 1-2 HDD @ 9000 RPM for storage and media
Now you're just looking for a laptop that doesn't exist. There are no octacore i7's or Xeons for laptops, and 9k RPM 2.5" drives would overheat in a laptop. There's a reason the only drive of this type sits in a giant heatsink that double functions as a 3.5" adapter.

I guarantee you that engineering student's laptop didn't have these either.
So to answer your question in >>Is this fucking retarded, and should I just get a Travel Cube in addition to a regular desktop?
Yes, it's fucking retarded. What you should do is get a regular desktop that you can remote into, and then a nice lightweight laptop to carry around.

I had a great portable computer setup for you, but it's only 6 core, and it's ugly Intel so it's probably "tuned for Windows"
Oh well

Holy shit this has got to be pasta
Please tell me nobody is this ignorant

>Yes, it's fucking retarded. What you should do is get a regular desktop that you can remote into, and then a nice lightweight laptop to carry around.
... Or, alternatively, realize that these minimum requirements of yours are utterly retarded, and go with a mobile workstation like the Lenovo P50 or P70.

There ARE "portable" workstation type machines that will meet these ridiculous specifications, but they are by no means laptops. They're more along the lines of an actual desktop strapped to 3 fold-out displays and a keyboard.

Just set my pc up, when I start it the cpu fan twitchs for a few seconds before it actually spins. Is this normal? If not what is the cause, the psu, mobo or the fan itself?

>HAF 912
I ended up getting the Tt Commander G41 over the HAF 912, but I actually kind of regret it. The G41 has mounting holes on the top for a 200mm fan, but it can't fit anything that is wider than 200mm in any dimension (it can't fit that CM fan).

>Are 120mm or 140mm fans better for static pressure?
120mm fans because for whatever reason, fan makers refuse to invest more in optimizing their 140mm and larger fans. If you check the specs on two identical fan blade type in 120mm and 140mm, you'll notice that the 120mm always has the static pressure advantage because the smaller fans are able to spin at a higher rpm than the 140mm fans. This largely has to do with the fan hub motors rather than its larger size, since you'll need a stronger motor to reach the same rpm with a 140mm blade than you do with a 120mm one. Most fan makers actually reuse their fan hub motors between those two sizes as well, which makes the 140mm have a smaller comparable dead spot thanks to its proportionally smaller hub, but makes it spin a lot slower as a result.
As far as I know, the highest static pressure rating I've seen for a 140mm fan is just around 2.7mm Hg, but 120mm fans are known to get higher than 3mm Hg.

overclock.net/t/1128821/amd-temp-information-and-guide

The motherboard temp, assuming that's the socket, is where the actual temperature sensor is, and your cpu temp runs off of a differential algorithm based on that sensor. It's not accurate until under load when you hit 45c on the socket, and when exceeding that temperature, it'll actually read 7-9C higher than true.

Basically, just go off what the socket temperature is, and ignore idle Temps because the algorithm will not work properly at idle.

Building a gaming mini-ITX for gf to prevent her from buying a gaymen laptop.

Here's a preliminary build. How does it look?
How can I improve or drop the price?

She does video editing in her profession, so that's why the 16GB RAM meme is present.

You might want to consider kicking the CPU up to 6700 or 6700k.

Why do you think that?

E-mail replied. Akasa told me they don't have the support and the store where I bought should give me these plastics.

I asked leddit about doing a h110/g4400/4gb build to replace my coworkers dead pentium d (e5400?) 2gb system, and someone suggested an athalon 5350 build.
Am I right in thinking the athalon would be slower?

All she does is basic stuff in the browser

How long until the 1070 is sub $300/refurbs hit the market?

I got mine for 230$

Where?

That Athlon is slower, but it uses less power for performance and has four cores (Jaguar is completely different from Piledriver, it's four full cores with distinct pipelines rather than shared). I'm using the 5370 for browsing and other light "normie" tasks. It's slightly faster, but you'll be able to appreciate the performance bump. It sounds crazy, but pairing the Athlon with a cheap 120GB SSD isn't such a bad idea.

You might also want to look into embedded/SoC motherboards like my Pentium N3710 motherboard or the cheaper Celeron J3160 motherboard (Biostar, ASRock, ASUS, and Gigabyte make a few). AMD also has embedded A6-5200 and A4-5000 motherboards (both from Biostar and ASRock might still have some A4-5000 boards in stock).
Those can be powered from a 60W external brick if PSUs are too expensive/large for the build. They make great 24/7 builds if you want to run a DNS server, VoIP server, or a print server at home.

Is there such thing as 16:10 120Hz or 144Hz monitors?

If not, is it possible to scale a monitor down to 1080p without consuming GPU power? Currently can't do 1440p at 144Hz but I can do 1080p at 144Hz.

Any decent PSU deals that have 8 pin?

Attempting to drop the price.

6700k is too expensive and I'm already over the budget.
By "improve" I meant if there's better alternatives for the same or lower price.

The sqt is dead so I thought I'd ask this here

I've got a headphone set that just doesn't work for whatever reason when plugged into my desktop. I've already checked all the drivers for everything so that shouldn't be the problem. But the damn thing won't play audio out of the right ear, only the left.

I've already checked the sound balancing and the right ear isn't muted, it's just not turning on when the set is plugged into the headphone jack.

>get a RX480
>PC starts turning off randomly, sometimes within minutes of powering it back on
Whoa..... so this is the power of Vulcan......
[spoiler]Actually this isn't a new problem, but it simply resurfaced. Last time I got rid of it by cleaning the insides thoroughly, but they're not even dirty this time. It's also completely independent od heat generation or whether I'm playing vidya or just browsing.[/spoiler]

How do I ascertain whether it's the PSU (most likely option), or the motherboard (only other thing I can think of); and what are some good producers of quality PSUs that don't die after a year or two?

Plug is kill, get new headphones

I wouldn't say it has no impact on gaming. Faster ram doesn't increase average frame rates by much at all, but it does cut minimum frame rates.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/BZhXkT
Yes, you don't need a cooler, the i5 comes with one
Don't need a Z170 mobo with a locked CPU
I have a dead 2TB barracuda sitting right next to me; get HGST
170 for a 950 is retardedly expensive unless that's canadabux. Anyway 470 / 3GB 1060 is best bang for lowest buck

Pretty sure the EVGA 450 is like $40. Supposedly it's ok

Um, did you connect the leads from the power button to the mobo?

Wait for 1080Ti

Looks good.

Is good.

You won't see that for 6 months or so at the earliest

If you're over budget, change to i5-6500, drop the cooler, get an H110 or H170 mobo

What machine does she usually edit on?

>[spoiler]
Embarrassing.

>UPS refunded me 2400$
what?
how did >>UPS break your >>>>>old PC?

Y-you too

>EVGA 450
>check the europe site
>literally nothing but the 100 EUR ones are in stock
>amazon.de is just shit
suck to be yuropean

Intercontinental shipping.I had them ship
my relatively new rig for the ((cheap)) sumn of 800$.Apart from my hdd and ssd which I brought with me (I am not THAT retarded) everything arrived broken.I managed to resell a few parts but I got lucky with my claim and I will be
receving my check in a couple of weeks.

>buy 8GB instead as that'll save you $4
lol poor fag

Yeah...
That was said before I actually compared prices and started cutting cost.
Last time I put together a machine 2x8GB was wildly more expensive than 2x4GB

Tee wire for one side is interrupted somewhere in the cable, happens a lot with older/ cheaper headphones.

>older/ cheaper headphones.
They're literally brand new out of the box. Fairly cheap (like $45) but this is fucking horseshit.

And on top of that Steam fucks up using my webcam mic that I now have to use because these goddamn headphones don't work.

Left speaker is the T (tip, like tip of the connector) side, right is the middle metal ring of the jack
It's probably a plug problem if the headphone isn't just broken
What kind of drivers affect an analog output signal? You probably just haven't installed Apple ijack for sound

Reposting my build.

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/DVbQPs

Would you change anything? (Yes the D15 does fit)

>What kind of drivers affect an analog output signal?
Out of date mobo drivers could cause audio conflicts if someone's using multiple devices, but it wouldn't affect the analog. Sounds like his headphones are just busted.

If you dont OC the i5 to shit the NH12 would be a cheaper option that still offers excellent temps

I plan to OC it to shit though. My plan is also a slightly silent oriented system.

Which brand of 1060 is best

The you have one of if not the best after market cooler available.

1060p

>I plan to have a silent system
>I'm gonna OC to shit
For what purpose

Best of both worlds. It obviously won't be as silent as a non OC system but it'll still shave some dB off when under load.

>uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/DVbQPs
>only Noctuas
Have you tried looking at other fan options that are between 1000-1300rpm fans that have higher than 80 CFM ratings? I can tell you that any fan that runs at max RPM above 1000 tend to make noise - not from the fans, but from the turbulent air behind the fan (aka "wind noise") It's best to find a fan that has the highest max CFM at the lowest RPM band and use PWM or a voltage-based 3-pin controller for the best noise-to-airflow scenario. I use Fractal HF-14s in mine with a voltage controller and I actually produce positive pressure in the case despit having the voltage set to around 7.5V (the boundary where the air begins to roar).

This also sounds like a no-brainer, but the less fans you have, the better your acoustics will be. This makes fan placement more crucial because you want airflow over the right parts in the right direction. There is a trick to reducing the cone-effect of the fan exhaust and that's through the use of shrouds behind the fan. Some 1U or 2U server racks use shrouds to get the most airflow over critical components (using loud as fuck Deltas), but you can get a much quieter effect using the same techniques. Buying silicone fan mounts or fan "screws" will also cut down on noise from fan vibrations.

My first build ever budget 1400$ pcpartpicker.com/list/hKcn6X
thoughts? Suggestions?

>pcpartpicker.com/list/hKcn6X
>DT01ACA300
Jesus fuck no, user. Buy the newer P300. It's faster and has a much more robust spindle motor.
Also, what are you planning on doing with your computer? A lot of parts are either overkill or a waste of money for gaming.

Ignore the prices, pcpartpicker doesn't support my third world country.

I have no idea what particular 1070 to get, tempted to buy Founders edition since they're the cheapest, but if not this one is affordable, seems okay, and I like the color scheme. What's the commonly recommended option from the cheapest tier?

Not sure about the CPU cooler either, if there's anything better at this price point hit me up.

I'm also getting an SSD but it's a local meme device that's not even available on pcpartpicker so it's not included.

So I got USB 3.1 on my new computer. Anything useful I can do with it?

need more o_o

There's still a difference between what noise the different fans generate. I went with these because they're the most silent while still providing decent airflow.

So has anyone tested using the accessibility free upgrade? Is it safe?

My build is finished but no idea if my old 8.1 spare keys still work.

I can never go back after buying Noctuas

Overkill is kinda the game plan. Again I'm very new to this and that's why I'm asking for more eyes. Teach my user. I'd like to be able to run and destroy anything that will pop onto the gaming market for at least a few years. I've deeply considered downgrading the processor, but I mean I have the cash so might as well overkill right?

Do you really need an i7? An i5 6600K is fine for gaming, which is somehow what the majority of builds posted here are for. People are probably going to give you shit for the Seagate HDD.

>There's still a difference between what noise the different fans generate
And that largely has to do with what happens to the airflow once it leaves the fan. Noctuas are alright at managing this noise (their fan hub supports are shaped like aerofoils, which certainly helps things), but they don't generate enough airflow at specific RPMs which justifies their higher price tag. There are better options out there for the price. Noctuas do make a very distinct noise at around 1050-1100 rpm which only gets louder as you push the RPMs higher. I've never been a fan of it because its a noise that's hard to muddle.
>I went with these because they're the most silent while still providing decent airflow
Well, I'm not going to stop you from buying them. Just don't put too many fans in your case or you might end up making the noise issue worse at all RPMs/voltages.
>Overkill is kinda the game plan.
> I'd like to be able to run and destroy anything that will pop onto the gaming market for at least a few years
>I mean I have the cash so might as well overkill right?
So you like burning money. Buy an i7-6950X, some gaymer X99 motherboard with RGB LED lights, and the most expensive case you can buy. Why not go 1000W 80+ Titanium rated PSU while you're at it. Take that 1070 out for a 1080, no make that two 1080s in SLI. Burn all the fucking money you have. Such as build will last you at least one year before buyer's remorse sets in. You're the type of customer I dream of when I was still doing custom builds as a main business.

>buy noctua cooler and an extra fan later
>all those spare cables, splitters, adapters and mounts included

based austrians

Agreed, i7 if you need to edit videos, i5 if you only need to game as your most intensive task. 1% of games utilize hypterthreading, and it is never justified by the $100+ price jump.

Are you the anime fag with a burning hatred for ATX motherboards?

I toyed around with an overclocked i3-6098P and that shit murdered-raped games like they were unarmed, virgin women. Probably did them as well as an i5-6600K at slightly lower clock speeds. Minimums did take a dip, but those were still infrequent (with Nvidia cards, AMD still needs to work on their DX11 drivers, but they never will fix their well-documented DX11 issues).
I don't hate ATX motherboards. I love them. I have two ATX motherboards for toying with overclocks and an EATX machine I use to record and edit 1080p and 4K videos.
The problem is, most consumers and first time builders have absolutely zero need for more than two PCIe slots. They end up spending on average $50-70 more on ATX cases to fit their ATX motherboards into when they'll never end up using all those empty PCIe slots. They'll be better suited for mATX or even mITX boards+cases. The only time I'll recommend one to anyone is if they have a genuine need for it (or are overclocking, but those people rarely need to ask for help choosing parts for obvious reasons). Server-builds especially.

Let me correct myself. I have the cash I've budgeted and saved specifically for building a PC that will last the 4 years my current PC has. I'm not fucking made of money. I don't like burning money, but I try and stay out of the mentality that using the money I've budgeted specifically for something isn't a waste when I spend it on it's intended purpose. I have 1400$ built up for a PC what would you suggest? If I was to downgrade from a 6700k to a 6600k where would you reroute the money?

You can plug in USB 3.1 devices.

>VS450 at 41 EUR
>CX430 at 49 EUR
oh lord

>I'm not fucking made of money
>I try and stay out of the mentality that using the money I've budgeted specifically for something isn't a waste
Welcome back to Earth. Give me a few minutes and I'll help you out for free.

Thank you user

yea, as says, you need more power, I think a 650W should do fine but you can shell out a bit more and get a 750W.

also it depends on what you're doing with your rig, if it's for vidya's then you can probably settle for less HDD storage space. as for gpu you could either get that or the 1060. You may want more RAM but that's up to how many things you're gonna have open at once.

pcpartpicker.com/list/vMrjHN
I can go cheaper if you didn't want a windowed case.
And yes, that's a 1080 in the same budget. No, it won't bottleneck.

My initial build idea had an 6600k but my desire for an 6700k was bugging me. It's mostly irrational because I want the shinier toy, but hey, it works for me. And in benchmarks I've seen the fps difference in games is there, not as big as the price difference, but noticeable enough.

Also, while I'll upgrade my GPU before I get another new PC, I'm probably stuck with the CPU for good, so I kinda want to future proof it a bit. This is meant to last a long while.

Thanks for the input though.

Anyone got anything to say about the cooler or recommended 1070 model?

I trust you user. I know next to nothing about many of these things. If you need to know what grade of sandpaper to use or what grip to use hitting a topspin serve hit me up though. I have no desire for a windowed case over any other but you've done more than enough already.

That mobo looks like trash. Do not skip on the mobo.

Don't troll innocent people, what will you do if he goes and buys this piece of crap?

Give me a reason why it's bad that doesn't involve "muh overclocking".
>MSI
Fine, I'll give you that much, but I'd rather he not stare at a shit-brown PCB or copper heatsinks (seriously, what the fuck ASRock?).
Besides, he can make the final call.

>MSI
>looks like it's going to bottleneck an ATARI
For an i3 or lower i5, sure, but personally i wouldn't consider this for a 6600.

Audio Codec isn't 1150.

>I have no desire for a windowed case over any other but you've done more than enough already.
Fuck it, here's a non-windowed version that's even cheaper. Think of it like a sleeper build.
>looks like it's going to bottleneck an ATARI
Nigger what the fuck are you on about? The only thing that the chipset does is combine the SATA, non-video card PCIe, Ethernet, USB, and other controllers into a single chip. It is a set of controller chips, hence the word "chipset". It will not "bottleneck" anything. DMI 2.0 is enough for SATA-based SSDs anyway, so it won't even bottleneck that.
You literally have no idea what you're talking about. Fuck, my face hurts from palming so hard.
He can (and should) buy an external DAC if he truly cares about audio quality. HDMI has audio transmission mixed into the signal anyway, but if he needs better quality audio, he should be looking at fully-enclosed sound controllers that can be placed far away from electrical interference (like, say, the inside of a computer case).

Forgot to paste
pcpartpicker.com/list/BFngBP

This is my pc
pcpartpicker.com/list/4jMt7h

What should I upgrade next?

Get the i5-6600k. All your other shit is already up to date. Maybe more/faster RAM.

>Mobos are all the same
Why don't you get a cheaper one then?
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813135404&cm_re=H110-_-13-135-404-_-Product

>ECS
I'm hesitant because they're not an easy company to deal with for warranties and troubleshooting. They're worse than ASRock in that department (because ASRock will at least pretend to care about your problems before doing fuck all). The two ECS J1900 boards I installed either got man-handled by someone packaging the thing or by the guy putting the board together (how the fuck do you Q&A pass a heatsink that hasn't even been fastened properly?). ECS didn't even have a working phone number to call so I had to e-mail them about the problem. No joke, they told me to contact the company I purchased it from for issues related to manufacturing that they did.

>I know next to nothing about any of these things
And you think PC building general is any different?

Do not buy a a 3TB hard drive, they are extremely prone to failure, up to 25% for some models.

Also a 1080 is a fucking waste, just get a 1070 or wait until 1080Ti

>have Seasonic M12II 620
>fans sort of making a weird, slight scratching noise at a certain RPM, not even full load
>take it apart and reassemble, mount upside down and right side up multiple times
>nothing helps
>try to stop the fan with a large toothpick while it's running, end up breaking one of the blades off
>no power-intensive tasks until I get a replacement
>finalyl find some fan that presumably is 95% close the specs of this random gook fan
>to install it, I only need to rip apart some soldered conenctions and twist some wires
>don't have a soldering iron so I just twist stripped strands of copper wire (stripping those tiny buggers was a pain in the ass) together and electrical tape it up
>whole jerryrigged mess has been working fine for half a year now

I'll swear on the quality of the Seasonic internals but that fan was absolute bullshit. Don't fall for the Corsair meme though, kids.

Diferent user, do you know if 4TB+ have the same prone ?
Want to get a 4tb and a 6 tb, both from WD

Really? Would I see a noticeable improvement?
Also gonna get another monitor and another 16 of ram

I think this problem only really pertains to the 3TB Seagates.

Maybe, not too much, but enought. You asked for what you should upgrade, but all your shit is already ok like I said. I also told you about the k one because you have the z170, wich is kinda useless if you won't OC. Man, the i5-6600k is just 30$ more and with a good OC can improve some games a little.

Also, I got a 4tb WD. A friend got the exact model but he will use it to store anime, I want to use mine to keep the games there, but is kinda slow for that (5400/5200 rpm i think).

>Do not buy a a 3TB hard drive, they are extremely prone to failure, up to 25% for some models.
There's this meme again. It was limited to just one specific model of 3TB drive.
Most of one specific Seagate 3TB drive (the Seagate ST3000DM001) were failing because of either poor quality assurance testing, shortages of large-capacity drives because of the 2011 floods in Thailand (also part of the former), because of poor handling during packaging/shipping, or because their 3x1TB platter array inside the drives were lacking in quality (again, tied to the first reason). Most drives use at least 4-5 platters depending on the density.
backblaze.com/blog/3tb-hard-drive-failure/
extremetech.com/extreme/222267-seagate-faces-lawsuit-over-3tb-hard-drive-failure-rates

That being said, the Toshiba DT01ACA were pretty bad too, but they were equally unreliable across the board, not just one specific size. The P300 is a different design than the DT01ACA, borrowing much from the MD04ACA, which were basically MG04ACA enterprise drives with different firmware and features disabled. The 3TB P300 is pretty good.
Now stop spreading that meme.

> because you have the z170
Man I have a h170 board....
Also for storage I plan to buy a 1tb ssd, and maybe two 5 Tb hdd
>I have a problem of hoarding data

oh, hehe, I'm tired, I should go to sleep.
Then keep what you have, just get more storage but watch out for what use you will have that storage for, the faste zum zum SSDs for specific programs, some games, then the 7200 HDD for the other games and the 5400 for media shit and porn.

>Diferent user, do you know if 4TB+ have the same prone ?
Again, limited to just one specific model of Seagate drives.
If you're getting a WD Black drive, don't buy anything less than the 5TB or 6TB ones, because all of their other Black drives are woefully outdated today. Their 4TB Black drives are a fucking rip-off thanks to the 4TB Toshiba X300 costing only $10 less than their WD Blue model of the same capacity, but beating the 2011-vintage 4TB WD Black drive in almost every single respect.
The 5/6TB Black drives are a different beast entirely. They're new (2015) and faster than the Velociraptor 10000 rpm meme drive in large file read and write. WD Red Pros are also a beast, but fuck their overpriced bollocks.

Also, a hearty kek to the user telling you to waste money on a i5-6600K when you have a H170 chipset. I think an i7-6700 is the only upgrade path you have until Kaby Lake comes out and Gigabyte updates their BIOS to work with them.

just snagged a XFX PRO650W for 80 EUR (that includes shipping)
I felt horrid for spending 80 EUR on a fucking PSU but then I realized that this was the only way to go for my dreams of kicking this xeon up to 4GHz god bless

>Also, a hearty kek to the user telling you to waste money on a i5-6600K when you have a H170 chipset. I think an i7-6700 is the only upgrade path you have until Kaby Lake comes out and Gigabyte updates their BIOS to work with them.
I know
Also, looking on Amazon, the 4tb Blue are like half the price of a 5tb Blue, so two 4tb drives gonna be

>the 4tb Blue are like half the price of a 5tb Blue
And yet the X300 is only $17 more.
But if you really want to save money on drives, buy an external hard drive. They use the SAME EXACT FUCKING DRIVE as the one you can buy separately, but most companies price their external drives at least $5 less than the bare drives. Seagate 4TBs aren't terrible or unreliable as Cred Forums likes to think, but you can buy a 4TB external drive for $110 while the 4TB internal drive costs $116.

And funny story:
when they were still in stock, you could have gotten the Samsung D3 that had the same exact drive as the Seagate Desktop External drive at the same exact price WITH A TWO-YEAR LONGER WARRANTY.
Shame they went out of stock months ago.

Between a normal ssd (samsung 850 evo) and a m.2 (850 evo) is there a noticeable gain in booting time on games like BF 1, Titanfall 2 and Doom, taking account that the m.2 almost cost 49 dls more

>Between a samsung 850 evo and a 850 evo
No. Same controller, same NANDs, same protocol (AHCI) just with a different form factor.
SATA-based M.2 are for cucks.

This is officially the build I'm going with. Final thoughts Cred Forums? Much appreciated.

I know right?
I nearly caused myself to have a fucking meltdown over trying to find a cheaper PSU to the point where I would cross check and do insane amounts of research just to see if I could drop my PSU costs like 5 to 15 bux down.

You don't need Z170 for a non-K part.

Not sure how much you need 16GB, but it's your build.

Do you have other storage options?

You can save money with a semi-modular PSU.

Don't buy an aftermarket fan unless it says that it has a fluid dynamic bearing or a ball bearing.

Drop the Z170 board for an H110 board and save almost $80 right there, pham. Drop that meme memory for a cheaper pair (you won't notice the difference between 2133MHz and 2666MHz anyway except for Fallout 4, and the difference there is only 2 FPS AT BEST)
There are cheaper TLC NAND SSDs at that capacity, even some 480GB SSDs at that price.
You could swap the case for a cheaper mATX case (choose 4-5 Full-sized PCI slots in the case options)
>80+ GOLD FULL-MOD
I'm not knocking on you for falling for the meme, but you fell for the meme. Come on, unless you're running a server all day at 100% peak load and shaving pennies off the electric bills makes the difference between profitability and debt, you don't need an 80+ Gold PSU. Try a 80+ Bronze PSU that's a semi-mod, the only thing you're missing out on is not being able to detach the CPU and ATX motherboard connectors WHICH YOU NEED TO USE ANYWAY.

Nice feedback. I will drop the RAM to 8GB.

I just really like that Z170 because of the audio as well as being able to OC my RAM. That's about it. Even if it's negligible, whatever. The mx z170 isn't too expensive.

I don't have other storage options but I will add a regular hard drive to it.

>I just really like that Z170 because of the audio
I guarantee you that you'll barely be able to hear the difference between the cheap audio controller in a H110 motherboard and a more expensive unit in your Z170 board. But you WILL hear a difference (although slight and not really worth the money IMO) with an external DAC.
>The mx z170 isn't too expensive
My dead C226 ATX motherboard cost that much. That's pretty high, especially for a mATX motherboard.
Whatever, it's your money. Gigabyte does make a barely $5 cheaper H170 motherboard with the same parts.

How is the Corsair Carbide Air 240 Cube Case for a replacement?

Over-priced and oversized for a cube-style case with a window.

The Define S is a good case. Don't change that.

Ah. I just need something that's silent like the Fractal Design one, but not as large. The Fractal Design matx cases suck.

Why not Cooler Master N200, which is on sale right now for about $35?

Okay cool, thanks.

>Define S
I was going to recommend the Define Mini, but why the fuck is it more expensive than an ATX case? Fuck you, Fractal Design.

I've heard the Mini is not as quiet as it's made out to be.

Do padded side panels contribute that much to case silence or does that weigh more heavily on hardware?

Guys, can you recommend me a ssd manufacturer, I was thinking in buying a 512gb
Also I´m planning to buy a SHP9500, and a DAC, I´m between a Fiio e10K or a SMSL M3