>Where to Buy:
>Use the buyer's template
/mkg/ Mechanical Keyboard General
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hello here is my keyboard
Do you ever use the windows key on the right? I always remove it to allow for a longer space bar.
there is no windows key on the right that's a fn key
Not possible to find a matching cap?
I don't really care enough it looks fine
might replace it with something eventually
Looks like a tai-hao set, not exactly the most versatile keysets.
do they even make 4 unit space bars?
or is this something i'm going to have to pay through the nose and get custom?
Why do people buy Industrial SSKs and put those disgusting key caps on them?
The blue keycaps come with the board, the RGB ones I bought separately.
how do you guys feel about these meme keyboards
fake industrial detected
What's with the weird logo?
He bought an industrial case and put his old white IBM badge on it.
unicomp had industrial cases for $30
The logo is the best part of ownign an Industrial Model M though.
let me get my sharpie
Quick question: are the only good mechanical keyboards sketchy Chinese brands or old-ass IBMs? Looks like the only stuff that's available e-tail is retarded gamur shit. I just don't trust ordering a chink mk from massdrop.
Considering buying a keyset with similar shape. How do they feel?
i haven't had many problems with the pok3r that many people mention, but this is inexcusable for me unless you include 4+ extra of these in the box
idk why it triggers me so much
Like laptop keycaps.
No. That would be ridiculous.
what size is this or layout/format name
>ducky mini bezel looks horrible
>apparently the pok3r is bad
>hhkb is $250 and made of plastic
is 60% dead? why is it so hard to find something that is well made and doesn't look like ass?
Blue ALPS switch remakes when?
Metal cases are a meme
anyone know if I can buy an 8-key keyboard with 8-key rollover?
Nigga just get a full 104 what are you afraid of?
What do your retarded guns have to do with your keyboard.
/mkg/ is full of tripfags without a trip. Reddit too.
these guns + filco pictures are a classic
I have some saved from like 5 years ago, newfriend
I don't need the tenkey. the smallest I use is a TKL, though.
>the AR15's mag
Gets me every time
Would not even give them a second thought if they were not covering the actual keyboard being presented, tbqhwu
It's an attention grab. You realize this, but you ask anyway.
Dildos, dolls, waifu pillows and printed mousepads aren't. Why would this be any different? Can't pick and choose what room features are and are not allowed based on opinions.
Now if my hosieried legs were in shot we might be dealing with whoring.
I'm a grill btw
>Dildos, dolls, waifu pillows and printed mousepads aren't.
Shot in a similar manner they absolutely are. Why wouldn't they be?
>I'm a grill btw
We know this isn't true because you're not taking up 3/4 of the shot.
Because nobody's ever been banned for that. But I have, repeatedly, by an overzealous european janitor who got a talking to before stopping last year.
No, I'm pretty sure mods ban for posting dragon dildos
K10000s camera sux
Is it worth buying a soldering iron, solder, and a kit?
that's ridiculous, reminds me of an erect dick or something
I stole a soldering kit from school
Literally one of the best investments I've ever made.
I struggled with pos $10 radio shack irons my whole life and just assumed I sucked - Turns out, the secret to good soldering is a good soldering station.
or an aborted fetus
Cherry MX red
ISO,ANSI, both fine
PBT, dye sub
No experience with mechanical keyboards.
Anyone know where I can get something like this?
are you sure about the mx reds? will you use it primarily for gaming or for typing? try blues if you haven't, you could feel up some keyboards at a store or get a switch tester for like $10 so you don't have to buy a whole keyboard to test it
Pretty sure. I use a light rubber dome for gaming right now, and I've looked at typing tests online.Red seems just fine.
I might look into a tester in the future,but right now I'm curious where I can get a keyboard with these characteristics.
Not him, but could you possibly tell me if this one is alright? Ebay and/or Amazon's delivery in my country costs more than the item itself, so I have to use Ali.
Reds feel nothing like rubber domes.
I'm also considering cherry mx blacks,but i have no idea if they are too heavy. How are they compared to rubber domes in terms of actuation force, I've heard pretty similar?
it looks fine
Doesn't need to feel like a rubber dome, just something linear with an actuation force that is similar/not too hard/soft.
reds are good for gaming
vortex pok3r is an option
i recommend ANSI rather than ISO even for europeans because it has a better layout for programming and the left shift and enter keys are more accessible with less strain
Thanks senpai :^)
Are there any mechanical keyboards that still have up to F24, but are USB connected?
Is Leopold FC660M any good?
Whats the difference between an 87U and an 87UB?
Also is the picture on keyboardco just taken with a really bright light that makes it seem brown? I cant find a brown realforce anywere else
does corus-kb not deliver to canada? they have canadian pricing available
Yes, The Keyboard Company's photos of the Topre keyboards are really really bad. Do not use them as a reference, ever.
Same keyboard (same model/part number), Keyboard Co just have some odd naming.
They are known to not send the right product - if they send one at all. Please don't give them any money except through Amazon, because they'll have your back if something goes wrong.
Sure. I suggest buying directly on their shop instead of amazon for cheaper prices.
Yeah, the FC660M is a high quality board.
I have one with Cherry MX Blue switches. The layout is nice if you want something close to the 60% form factor but with cursor keys.
The one negative for the board would be that both of the shift keys are the size of the left shift key which limits your choice in custom keycap sets.
>Quick question: are the only good mechanical keyboards sketchy Chinese brands or old-ass IBMs? Looks like the only stuff that's available e-tail is retarded gamur shit. I just don't trust ordering a chink mk from massdrop.
I asked a similar question here a while back. It'd be nice to know if there were any serious manufacturers (rather than just retailers) based in Europe or the Americas. Otherwise if I'm going to buy Chinese shit I might as well just get the cheapest, crappiest brand.
Hey guys, just wanted to say that someone had suggested for me to get the ducky shine after my Tesaldro excalibur had absolutely felt like shit (as bad as the name sounds. Really. )
Just wanted to say thanks user! For those times I have to leave my pc on its surreal coming to my room and having it lit up by the multicolored glow and I can even see the light walking back to my place too from outside. Mostly turning it off during the day or just having a few keys lit up during pc usage if I feel like it.
Got my F107 case painted black today, there are a couple imperfections but a quick sand down and paint over will fix them up nice! Once my Model F 107 internals get delivered back from repair I shall put my white keycaps on!
>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
60-80%. Function row isn't important, but arrow keys and two shifts are.
Been using a Logitech G15 forever, my next kb will be my first mechanical.
dye-sub PBT keycaps preferably, and a USB 2.0+ port would be cool but not necessary
I work in finance and use the number pad frequently, should I get a separate number pad?
I just jumped on the train. Bought a Tomoko.
Did i fugg up?
looks like harlequin fetus
Where can I get this
On ebay for roughly 1000 bucks.
Are theres any good boards with Gateron clears?
The v60 is good
also metal cases are a meme
>let me flex with stacks of twenties
>and my fake keyboard
lol, you're like the hood-rich niggers who put a fake "AMG" logo on their benz
hahaha, yuro-butthurt never ceases to amaze me
Whatcha got going on with the CNC mill, user?
Got a 40% keyboard collab going with another Cred Forumsentooman, going to start testing PCB milling the CNC machine next week and see how it goes.
that is the joke
Because y not?
1. I've been wanting to try out sub-60% form factors and various other things since some time already.
2. Because we can, that's why
Couple questions before I start my day:
Any thoughts on this? Looks kind of like an ergonomic POK3R. amazon.com
Also just bought a Ortek MKB-84 SX on eBay. Will be my first time with Alp switches; what can I expect compared to Cherry switches?
Lastly just figured out the difference between a PS/2 to USB Adapter and a CONVERTER. Will be getting one so my Dell Quietkey does not continue to collect dust, also in case my Ortek will need it.
Also random pic of my Ducky since I don't have any pics on this computer of my current daily drivers.
because that's all they can do on that tiny machine?
I want to give a big thank you to everyone giving me the redpill on Noppoo mini choco since I just got it. Doesn't seem so bad far, but I thought brown switches I was suppose to feel something when I hit the key down but I don't feel anything.
Also, I don't know how to get rid of the light between the F12 and Prtsc, because it is messing up typing.
>but I thought brown switches I was suppose to feel something when I hit the key down but I don't feel anything
If only you had listened.
So what should I do? Just buy blue switches instead?
If you want something that's actually tactile (and noisy), yes.
Well fuck, I decided to not get blues because Blues are suppose to be bad for gaming.
the more i look at the hhkb, the more i want it. will i regret buying?
You need to stop eating marketing gibberish for breakfast.
If you don't like Topre, you probably will.
It's quite a unique board, but top tier.
Yea I'm leaned my lesson. I don't know what to do with my keyboard now though.
It's hipster garbage.
i have never tried topre but i still feel the urge to order it
this is what i'm worried about
Red for gaming
Blue for typing
Brown for compromise of both (also for when you want a quiet version of blue)
Desolder your browns and replace them with blues?
>but i still feel the urge to order it
You'll know once you have it won't you? If you buy it from amazon you can always return it.
This whole post is bullshit.
What do you mean desolder?
I mean that you desolder the switches.
As in, you undo the solder joints that attach the switch contacts to the PCB, take out the switches, put in other switches, and then solder those switches back in.
Where did Ducky go wrong?
Apart from using that god-ugly windows logo, nowhere in particular.
How do I do that?
but iso is fuckn gay dude
I do wish my industrial ssk was ISO but i dont care enough to modify it. I dont have a problem with ansi.
By using a search engine of your choice, desoldering shit is simple business.
I'm posting on Cred Forums, right?
>Available UP TO seven switches
Is this a bad translation, because that means they might make it available with fewer types of switches.
Don't you know? /mkg/ is a pure consumerist thread, only for buying things.
Not on my watch it isn't
if you are going to do more than one project yea. Make sure you get a flat tipped iron and thin solder
depends how much you payed
I know it's really dirt cheap but i want to get a general feel before i drop my cash on something expensive.
That gun guy's boards look really nice, btw. I'll probably invest in one of those later on.
not enough DIY
Why is the pok3r bad again? PBT keycaps, aluminum case, high build quality, etc. all look good to me.
Aluminnum case is awful
How would that be awful? Seems like it would feel more solid and well built than plastic, as well as holding up better.
No plastic looks better and feels better and sounds better and is better
Sadly, you're right.
I kinda want to take apart my IBM EMR keyboard to explore the innards, but I'm too worries about messing it up somehow. It's in fantastic condition as it is and I don't really want to change that.
My next project is a gamepad. Thinking about getting half an ergodox from falbatech and putting a weird mix of switches in it - Matias QC on WASD, Gateron blacks on the spacebar, Gateron red on lshift, Gateron clears everywhere else. The QC will require a little bit of coaxing to fit in the pin holes and plate, I think.
It's fine, I think. There are some reports of defects but it's just not the holy grail is all.
What is the holy grail?
Holy grail implies perfection. Is some readily available plastic japanese keyboard from 2006 really perfect?
No Realforce 87UB 55g is.
No 87 keys is too much and too little at the same time
How do you guys pronounce topre?
I pronounce it like topper
>white hhkb looks better with custom keycaps since more color options go with white
>white keyboards look dated and the plastic will yellow
>black looks sleek and nice, but you're limited in what customization can be done since it sullies the all black look
How can someone even decide what to buy?
buy an hhkb then replace the slider with nova touch
i pronounce it 'topre'
why would you do that?
So you can add keycaps that are mx compatible
Will the case of the white hhkb yellow? I know the keycaps are PBT, but the case itself probably isn't, right?
anyone else is wrong
>I struggled with pos $10 radio shack irons my whole life and just assumed I sucked
Nah brah. Make no mistake you suck shit at soldering if you can't manage with a ratshack iron. A good solder station just makes it easy enough for even shitters to do it.
The 888 is a great entry level station but the box art triggers me.
>soldering directly to untabbed batteries
>Pronouncing a 100% Japanese thing in americanese
Rubber domes vary hugely, and their resistance changes with age and use. Most are around as stiff as MX blacks or more, especially when old and worn.
Also rubber domes aren't linear. That sensation when the dome collapses, all resistance disappears and you squash it as you bottom out won't be there on a linear mechanical switch.
The Japanese can also name things that aren't in their native language. "Topre" can't be spelled with kana (トプレ (TO PU RE) doesn't have the same spelling). Given the boner that japs have for french, my bet's still on my spelling.
been using this with blues for several years and couldn't be happier with it. POM keycap material is goat. durability of PBT with a smoother feel.
Whatever you say, frenchie.
i might be the only person on Cred Forums that has a keycool.
should be Topré, then (which is how I say it in French)
and they know the accent exists, look at Pokémon
There's only one sound for え in Japanese.
Yes, but if you read Topre in French, it's not pronounced Topré. So I'm not convinced it was a made up French word.
What are you trying to say here? First you imply that you thought that Topre was a Japanese made-up French word, (which it's not) and now you go back on your claim? What does French even have to do with this?
The company was originally called "Tokyo Press Kogyo Co."
So its "To" as in "Tokyo", and "pre" as in "Press".
No, I said I don't think it's a made up French word from the start, because it's missing the accent. You got me confused with the other user.
You know that slight scratchy feeling as you push a key down? That's the tactile bump.
MX clears have a bigger bump but even then it's not that strong. MX switches in general just have weak tactility. Nothing at all like an ALPS switch or buckling spring.
Blues have high hysteresis and a larger reset point gap than other switches, which makes them a poor choice if you need to rapidly tap the key for anything.
With linears like reds you could float the key right on the actuation point to repeatedly send keypresses. Assuming you could tell where the actuation point is without any feedback, anyway. With browns at least you can feel that little scratch right above the actuation point.
Other than that they're as suitable as any other switch.
Interesting, so I should actually pronounce it Toprè, not Topré
wat is best cute small keyboard to lug around with laptop
I'm literally considering suicide from having to type on my laptop at school
It's supposed to sound French.
Presumably you'd also roll the R but since japs can't make that sound you can probably let it go.
is there any set of caps that actually looks good on a black case?
im literally about to just paint this thing white I want to die
What keyboard? I remember it was posted in a previous thread but i cant remember for the life of me
>want a nice, cute mechanical keyboard
>with full Finnish layout, numpad and function keys included
Fugg. And I've got so many more important things to get in my tech upgrade list.
Bump for interest
>bumping your own post
>in a general
>on a slow board
the fuck nigger?
is it possible to find a keyboard for cheap, i was looking for something with clears, around $70-80
ganss is probably the cheapest "decent" board with clears
you guys know where I can find one of these sets besides the one australian site?
>cherry mx grey
too bad TKL sucks
Aight so I've been using a TKL keyboard for ~three years, and I really want to get a 60% to take back and forth between my second PC and my job (boss insists on having a wireless keyboard, huge pain in the ass for the data entry I need to do on the computer there)
But I'm a huge faggot and I want control of the firmware so I can set up the aux keys how I want them.
What keyboard can I get that has user replaceable/flashable firmware or kit should I go with?
The three requirements are
b.)User flashable/customizeable firmware
c.)detachable USB cable (because I'm going to be transporting it)
you are all idiots
you are all really really stupid
you all know nothing to very little about keyboards
i bet you will laugh at this while thinking "look at this guy", but you will realise it to be true in the end
t. guy with 100+ mechanical keyboards
>hamfists are too heavy for browns
If you don't bottom out every press like a child, they're a comfy choice
What exactly makes aluminium cases worse? Plastic superiority seems like salt
The more keyboards I get the less I truly understand
that's probably because you're buying literal trash you fucking tripcunt
>muh pointless vintage board with shitty switches
>much apple 60% with no case!!!
as a first time buyer of a mech keyboard, should i get some pre made corsair strafe/K70/K65 keyboard or just make one myself. and what pcb's or ready made boards do you recommend.
I have one chinkboard.
And the Apple keyboard has a case.
Admittedly, the vintage board is just there for the collections sake, but it's not like it cost me anything.
Anything else you'd like to complain about?
There's nothing to be gained from building your own keyboard other than wasted time, money, and e-peen.
weight would be the only drawback I can think of
i'm not complaining about anything.
i'm telling you that you're a fucking idiot and also a tripcunt.
i see three chinkboards in your pic. that led trash and cm count as chink.
p.s that case looks unergonomic af senpai lol!
Don't buy corshit. There's plenty of kits out there, but if you're just getting into things Is recommend a pre-built board, Ducky makes good ones if you're into fancy lights.
Did you burn yourself with the soldering iron?
I didnt bump it lol
Are you ok?
Are you proud of that picture? The soldering is fairly poor. You can see (excessive) globs of solder on the end of probably half of those resistors, and many, many cold solder joints.
not really into pretty lights, just a basic whit backlight would suit me. i was looking at a cm ten keyless cus i have a small desk. thoughts on their stuff?
taiwan is still chinkcore
Meh, certainly better than what I had done before that.
And those aren't resistors, nor were there any cold solder joints for that matter.
I'll take your word for it.
CM Rapid-i should suit what you're looking for, though I've seen people complain about the LEDs dying quite quickly in earlier models.
cool. and its cheaper than i thought it would be so i wont be blowing my whole budget.
Do you even keyboard matrix?
>(excessive) globs of solder
Granted, but hardly the end of the world.
>cold solder joints
Cold joints aren't shiny.
I can feel something when I hit the key down, but only when I do it slowly. I just thought when people talk about tactile that there was some kind of huge bump that you could actually feel like a shock from electricity.
So does that mean I'll have to find an ALPS or buckling switches then?
what a fucking mess
>>Do you even keyboard matrix?
I meant to type diode, I'm somewhat tired
>Granted, but hardly the end of the world.
Actually, excessive solder can be detrimental to the solder joint.
>Cold joints aren't shiny.
No shit. I'm glad you made that observation.
Now use those super sleuth skills and look at the image again, I can see at least five on the bottom row that are dull.
>nor were there any cold solder joints for that matter.
You must not know how to identify cold solder joints then... and it's not the lighting because you can see the reflection from the wire going between the joints.
Should I get a white or black HHKB? I feel like the white goes better in more color schemes (such as these memecaps) and just generally has more customization options. But I'm worried the white plastic might look dated, and that's before it starts to yellow, which is another concern.
The black is definitely not hideous, but the keycap options feel much more limited in what goes well with an all black board. I can do what, a red escape key and that's it? Black just feels like it has to stay all black to retain the sleek look.
What are your opinions famalam, help me decide which color to get.
It won't yellow it's pbt
get white if you like it better
only the keycaps are PBT, not the case
I thought you meant the keys.
Just get the one you like more.
But that's what I need help deciding, which one I should like more
Tell me about it it.
Not that I didn't have various technical issues with that board later on, but could solder joints certainly wasn't one if them. Had those been cold solder joints the keyboard wouldn't have worked properly, which it did just fine until the firmware somehow corrupted Itself or hell knows what.
>I'm somewhat tired
That excuse is even more embarrassing than your "typo"
I just came all over my model m tyvm
add some weed and keys to an old school datsun and you're living my dream
just get an industrial model m or a filco and be done with it
user you're missing the point
have you considered the CRAFTSMANSHIP that goes into making these art pieces?
is this good
Found this in an abandoned building at Thule, AB, Greenland...Danish alphabet and all.
Can you sing like bjork
GSG in Hardback?
Damn I'm missing out.
nope, that's why it now has English stickers to replace the Danish keys...and a USB cable to replace the DIN cable.
My day comes to an end and no answers to my questions :(
>Any thoughts on this
Not as nice as a Matias Ergo Pro, or the 60% group buy they're running
>Will be my first time with Alp switches; what can I expect compared to Cherry switches?
Switches that aren't shit.
I just found this in a local store. It's about $60, Gateron Blue and I actually like the design.
Should I bite the bullet and try it as my first mkg? Considering it's dirty cheap and Russian keycaps are pretty hard to find it looks like a great deal.
Apparently it's made by some Russian gamur gear company, probably some other board modified.
Looks like a Noppoo Lolita, but with Gateron switches instead of Kailh. It sounds like a good deal to me.
Found one with an open box.
I like the switches, not as tough as I expexted. I actually thought Gateron Clears were perfect switches for me. Guess I can buy that and try to swap them later maybe.
Got one with clears this weekend and I'm loving it.
Fuck it, I bout it.
Keycaps are shit, right?
I will probably replace them and maybe switches later, but it's good enough for a start.
I read that in an idubbbz voice 2bh
I'm actually typing on brand a new kind of keyboard, sorry.
Also I forgot the image of course.
How do i was ABS keycaps?
Apparently the pcb has pads for led backlight on individual keys (most visible on Up, diode silkscreen visible on Down).
Probaly becuase this board is used for other models with backlight, but the leds are not installed on this basic model - a common practice to make mass production cheaper.
Looks like it might be possible to install either SMD or pin (with some effort) leds.
There's no voltage drop on those pads even of the key is pressed though. Likely because current limiting resistors are not installed as well. Or maybe the chip doesn't support it.
Loving this mkb business desu already. I'll tamper with its interanls later once I'm confident I don't need warranty.
Also how the hell thy put this screw there? There are couple others that are covered by switches even more. No way they put the switches in afetr screwing it all together.
Keycaps soaking in soapy water while i clean this up
got a ducky shine 3 with blues witches (and silencers)
and I use them for gayming
I don't have any complains except faggots in TS that hear me everyone in a while
hahaha fuck them
>Also, I don't know how to get rid of the light between the F12 and Prtsc, because it is messing up typing.
that looks fucking horrible
Guys I need help. Just ordered some keycaps from wasd and had a custom order. 2 of the keycaps in the picture provided I have the caps lock and the right shift key and they don't have the plus in the right places. Is there anyway you guys think I could contact them and they could give me those individual keys? For the shift key do you think it would be wise to chop off the stabilizers so it fits?
I can't find a ducky shine 3 any where for sale.
I'm german can't help you with that
Shine 5 is the latest model
Yar, that is all I can find besides the Ducky Shine One, but they use APB keycaps.
What keyboard do you have?
A logitech g610. I needed something that was backlit and had a volume rocker around $100 and this seemed like the best option.
Heh, even when logitech makes a keyboard with a standard layout they fuck up aftermarket keycap compatibility.
There's not really a whole lot you can do there apart from asking WASD if they can help you out somehow (probably not) or cutting/breaking off the stabilizer stems and glueing them back on in the needed place, and praying that you don't fuck up somewhere in the process of that.
ok, help me in this, I'm losing my head searching a keyboard
>Preferred switch type
I've always used ISO EU keyboard, I've tryed ANSI ones and the mini "Enter" key was awful
I was always clicking the key up there, but since i'm starting IT in months should i force myself to use another layout?
Full, can't live without numpad
Yes, at least something like the ducky shine 4
an X220 German keyboard and a 15€ Aerocool for my desktop, i really need a new keyboard...
Yeah that's what I figured. I was wondering why the keycap sizes were so fucky. I already sent them an email explaining the scenario. Even my spacebar has the size of 6.0 which is, after looking around a bit, nearly impossible to fucking find.
This is your keyboard right?
Is the left ctrl larger than the modifiers beside it? It almost looks like it, but I can't quite tell from the picture.
Yeah it is, that's the last thing that's fucky. The CTRL's are 1.5 as opposed to 1.25's. I have some orange 1.25s in there currently but of course there's a little extra space in between them. I don't mind it that much.
This is what she currently looks like.
>The CTRL's are 1.5 as opposed to 1.25's
jesus christ, logitech really can't do anything right when it comes to keyboards
good luck sorting that mess out user. Signature plastics sells DSA keycaps in various sizes which could probably fix most of that shit, but stabilizer placement may still fuck you over.
sounds fucked, get a new keyboard or don't use the keycaps would be my suggestion
>>yeah just spend another 100 dollars bc you can't find 3 keycaps for a keyboard that is otherwise perfect for your needs
Yeah sorry bud i'm gonna pass on that. Having custom keycaps is dope, but I don't mind having 3 keycaps that currently don't match. I'm sure I can eventually find a solution for it.
just ordered this from japan, going to have a lot of fun cleaning and converting it to USB when it arrives
I'll be looking forward to seeing that. What switches?
>going to have a lot of fun cleaning and converting it to USB
I always say stuff like this, then I break it and it tursn into a fucking nightmare
i was being more ironic than serious
but yeah i dont expect it will be easy at all, however im pretty sure it uses the same interface as PS/2 which means i gotta just swap it to that
seller confirmed letter and number inputs work + ctrl shift caps enter, good chance other keys work as well
>He doesn't use PS/2
Haha what a faggot
>keyboard has a DIN plug
>just gonna replace it with a PS/2 one since same interface
>HAHA NOT ALREADY USING PS/2? AHAHAH FAGGOT
I wonder what they'll end up recommending
If you read the replies, he says that it's going to be a guide for plebs.
Corsair K70 RGB
Looking for a mechanical keyboard with Cherry Clear or Red switches that is affordable as in around £80-£100 ($104-$130)
go eat a pile of cake
My keyboard is one of those gaming branded keyboards, a CM storm quickfire xt in cherry blues. It's nice, I like it better than the old rosewill with browns in it.
What keyboard should I get if I am going to be a christian rapper
why does Cred Forums hate corsair keyboards?
I just bought a 2013 Razer Blackwidow from a thrift store for $1 dollar. Problem though, is that it has no space bar. I looked around and Razer doesn't sell any. What can I do to replace the space bar?
Thinking of getting a Ducky One TKL w/ backlighting and Cherry MX Reds.
What do you guys think of my keycap selection? Do WASD make keycaps compatible to backlighting?
anyone try that ducky shine 5 with the nature white switches?
I'm currently using blues and I want to know how linear switches are compared to these.
Will I regret buying the hhkb or is it a nice keyboard?
To expand on this, some people say it feels cheap. Plastic case, slides all over the desk, USB ports are useless, etc.
It's a high quality board
id on mkb?
Hyperfuse happening at the same time as Hydro. Fuck life, I cant choose.
Btw, got my Masterkeys this week. Nice little board, now I just need that aluminum case GB to happen.
BUYING A BOARD WITH MX BLUES
COMING FROM BROWNS/REDS/TOPRE
WHAT AM I IN FOR BESIDES A LOT OF NOISE?
Getting these for my chink Motospeed K104.
How does it feel paying 100$+ on plastic pieces?
Yours may be higher quality, but mine are 30$. There are also Miami sets and other memes.
This is what it looks like when I turn my leds on from the keycaps ordered from them.
i personally like the g80-3000
clicks and actuates at different times
a literal worse experience than rubberdomes
Actuates before or after the click?
not even true, using blues right now and mine do both exactly at the same time
If you get a stepped capslock key it should have the mount in the correct position. The shift has completely nonstandard stabilizer spacing though so good luck with that one.
And if you try to use the shift with the stabs cut off it'll be virtually unusable.
Every cherry switch actuates beffore tactile bump. Pretty much every switch of any brand do.
Just remember to lever sideways to remove NEC oval keycaps. Pulling straight up will probably break the switch housing.
Also they're notorious for getting dirt or grime inside so the whole board might need a good blasting with contact cleaner.
thanks for the advice, i'll do that
also yeah i will be disassembling and cleaning as much of it as i can, hopefully i can make it at least a tad less yellow
here's an album of a clean one and it looks absolutely badass
You could order one from signature plastics or something. The blackwidow's spacebar is 6 units long and the stabilizer stems are 38mm to either side of the switch stem.
It feels pretty cheap and the switches are all case mounted so it clacks a lot on the upstroke. It's also not even programmable. There's a DIP switch bank on it that lets you select between a few preset key configurations and that's it.
It's not a terrible keyboard mind you, but they're out of their fucking minds asking as much as they do for it.
Incorrect. They all actuate after the bump. One contact leaf has to ride over the bump before it can touch the other contact.
Actuation before the tactile response is very rare. That NEC keyboard somebody posted earlier is actually the only type of switch I can remember that does this.
Buckling springs on the other hand are the only switch I know of that actuates at exactly the same time as the tactile response.
>buying anything more expensive than a $40 red dragon
True. However, if you actually try to slowly press the keys, trying to trigger a click without activation, you will see how hard it is and that if you actually type, it will be at the exact same time, +-1ms.
That looks horrible. There are many good looking, high quality mechs on Aliexpress and Gearbest, in all formats and layouts for under 60$.
This is what I'm worried about, that it will feel more like an $80 keyboard but with a $250 price tag
MX blues can't click without actuating. That click sleeve has to bounce down past the contact leaf (allowing it to close), get propelled back up by the spring and slap against the stem to make the noise.
You can feel the scratch of the tactile bump without going all the way over it and actuating the switch, though.
That's probably an accurate assessment. If I were going to pay $200+ for a 60% Topre board it would be for a Leopold and a custom controller for it.
Got that set recently (that only feedback is mine lel). Based chinks.
>It feels pretty cheap
Doesn't feel cheap to me.
>and the switches are all case mounted so it clacks a lot on the upstroke
That's the point.
My b haven't been on since the post.
Its a Winkeyless B.face x2
Haptic feedback is supposed to coincide with switch actuation for the typist's benefit. That's just noise for noise's sake.
have you used the leopold fc660c? I can't decide between it and the hhkb. a friend bought me a scratch off and I won $375 (kek) so I can really buy either, I just want it to be high quality
what a coincidence. you have backlight on that at any chance? i want to see if the LEDs will shine through them somewhat, because i'd prefer them not to.
B.Face X2 with BBB Acrylic RGB diffuser case and lubbed krytox GPL 103/205 62g Ergoclears, swapped internals into milky Gateron housings for a firmer fit. (these are not the Tactile clears offered on WKL) and poop NPKC Blank PBT Keycaps from massdrop. This is my custom Korean baby ;)
>Haptic feedback is supposed to coincide with switch actuation for the typist's benefit
Well, it doesn't in the case of the HHKB.
Does that make you uncomfortable?
I played around with it a bit when I was in Japan, but I haven't really extensively used it, so I can't make any definite comments about build quality compared to the HHKB.
I'd assume the build quality to be higher since it uses a metal mounting plate, but for me one of the main appeals of the HHKB is the fact that the switches are mounted in the plastic case, giving that nice clacking sound on the the upstroke as you type.
I just know I wouldn't pay for that.
As long as you're sure that's what you actually want it's no skin off my nose. I guess it's no stranger than when kids stick playing cards in their bicycle spokes.
Yes, there is RGB backlighting. The keys do shine through, so there you have it m8.
Thanks for the example.
>I guess it's no stranger than when kids stick playing cards in their bicycle spokes
I did that when I was a kid, shit was fucking cash.
I'd sooner raise the question why you'd want a keyboard that purposely makes noise in the first place rather than care about whether it coincides with the actuation of the switch or not.
That's still acceptable for me. Thanks senpai. Maybe I can stuff them with toilet paper or something so they shine even less. Might even look good with coloured backlight.
>I'd sooner raise the question why you'd want a keyboard that purposely makes noise in the first place
I don't. I've got a dampened ALPS board.
But that said audible feedback that coincides with switch actuation is at least useful, provided anyone else in the room with you will tolerate it.
Sure it's useful, but you already have the tactile bump for feedback anyway.
If people who care about keyboards cared about usefulness, we'd all be using low profile chiclet keyboards that we hadn't payed more than 30 bucks for. There's no added usefulness in a keyboards that are less ergonomic due to their height and also cost far more than regular membrane boards.
What the holy fuck is that
Hey Cred Forums, maybe you can help me. I have a Noppoo Spyder Lolita that I really like (plz don't give me shit about the switches), and one fine day it stopped working. I could smell a bit of burning electronics when I plugged it in, so I opened it and found what you see in the image. Think there's any hope of resurrecting this board? I'm no expert solderer but I can keep from burning my fat fingers.
Assuming that that's the only thing that got damaged (everything else looks fine on the picture, but the controller may have also taken some frying to it), replacing that diode with another one should solve your problem.
Nice. Can you tell me more about how I can narrow down what that fried part is?
Enjoy your tendonitis.
Terminus mini bb.
It's more useful to have more than one kind of feedback, especially on switches with weak tactility (ie: MX).
>we'd all be using low profile chiclet keyboards
Yeah, no. The constant bottoming out on short travel scissor keys is the exact opposite of ergonomic and can lead to joint-related RSI.
I tried grid layout before. Would not recommend.
Wow, interesting. I thought it looked like a toy keyboard, but that actually seems pretty cool. I don't have any interest in matrix layout, though.
Kailh switches, garbage tier or acceptable alternative?
Kailh = broken stem tier.
Its got a lot of layers and just have to get used to manipulating it. would recomend if need a work keyboard for programs.
Did you try looking at the picture that you posted?
That black block (presumably an SMD diode) with some yellow shit on it isn't supposed to look like that. You can test it with a multimeter, but that thing looks fried to hell and back.
Yeah, of course I did, but I just don't have a lot of knowledge of electronics. Thanks for your help, though.
Seeing as C2 and C3 are obviously ceramic capacitors, C1 will be as well. Even if nothing else fried you may have a tough time figuring out the values of the cap without another of the same make to reference.
Are kailh switches that different than cherry?
The plastic is just lower quality, especially in the stems. It's more porous and brittle which can make breakage more likely.
Heh, my bad. I should add a "no liability" disclaimer to any advice I give past a certain time of day.
Lolitafag here...thanks for your help anyway. It's clearly time for me to go back to school on basic electronics.
Same for me, though I barely know shit about electronics in the first place.
Actually, what would you need capacitors for? Smoothing the current?
mainly the non-standard bottom row which makes it literally impossible to fully replace the keycaps
there is this easy mod with aluminium tape if you want to stop the shine through
i have to disagree, my mech keyboard is by far more useful, responsive and comfortable to use than my rubber dome