/pcbg/ - PC Building General

C'mon, user, not now!

Yes
But on the real though, buying monitors right now is much much smarter than buying a 4K tv right now
I bet you don't even have 4K videos

I'm looking for a case that has:
>good silence
>good drive support with removable drive cages
>not fuckhueg
>ventless, maybe flat top panel
>good cable management with rubber grommets
>METAL front panel, metal all around too
>easily accessible dust filters without having to yank off panels and break clips
>windowless option
>good cooling, bottom fan mounts maybe
>not flimsy in any way
>not an eyesore

Does such a case exist? I guess my ideal case would be a "premiumized" Define R5.

Thanks m8, gonna buy the monitors and maybe I can squeeze a 1080p tv there

The n200 fills all of your needs that aren't dumb

bequiet.com/en/case/704

>cable management with rubber grommets
>windowless
I bet you'll color coordinate it too

>wanting cable management in a PC is bad
WEW

>not flimsy in any way
>first words are "outstanding flexibility"

Well not bad but not good, I was more focusing on rubber grommets and needing certain aesthetic internals on a windowless case

>what is modularity

Nothing wrong with wanting a clean engine even though you put the hood down. The same holds true for a PC.

I've been working on this for 3 hours, guys. 3 hours.

Only to find out I was putting audio output on the microphone jack.

I really don't know what I've done to deserve such a shitty malfunctional brain.

input*

See? I should kill myself.

Jerk off, go to sleep, and wake up for another day of this shitty existence, user.

I'll do it. I've been drinking during the process, I'm already stumbling around the house.

Fucking kek dude. Glad you finally figured it out. Now the only thing left is to drink yourself to death.

JERK OFF TO SOME ANIME TITTIES user AND GO TO SLEEP.

>nvidia go VROOOM VROOOM

Micca MB42X and a smsl amp, worth over a logitech speaker system?

Better than some shitty logitech deak speakers? Most certainly.

Never heard of those monitor brands but anything is better than Logitech "computer speakers" or other brands for that matter

Kek, I'm glad too. Now I'm listening Crawling 1 hour in punishment for my stupidity, then I'll jerk off to 2D shit and drink until I pass out.

Any recs for the 2D thing?

The latest Rin doujin by Alp.

>buy modular PSU
>comes with a 2x6+2 PCIE cable, pic related
I've only ever used single 6+2 cables, how safe are these things? Can the GPU still draw adequate power?

It just looks like they used a bigger sleeve to bind the two cables together for better management. Why would one be less dependable than the other?

Need some help, so I finished my build, everything works but I quickly found I was getting consistant, like every 30 seconds, fps drops. And I mean significant drops, like 12 FPS.

This is an ITX build using 6600K, 3000mhz DDR4 16GB, 970GTX, 450W SFX PSU and a Gigabyte Gaming 5 1151 board.

So I open afterburner, crank up the power limit percentage to 110% and seems to be fine now. Thermals are fine, like 76C GPU 45C CPU before and after.

Does this mean I should have sprung for a 650W PSU? Will this become an issue down the line?

Only takes up one slot on the PSU as opposed to the two normal 6+2 connectors take up
I assume its fine, right? Just got me thinking since I've never used these cables before

So further testing, upping the power limit didnt actually help, so I decided maybe it IS the PSU entirely. Before going full drastic and disassembling the build, I tried using the PCI power cables from my last atx build. Works flawlessly. So I guess faulty cables or maybe I bent them too far?

Should I wait for Kake Lake (7700K)? Is anybody waiting for it?

>Want new graphics card/CPU
>1080 ti and Kaby Lake are only 6 months away
FUCK

What do you think about this? Sorry I didn't do pcpartpicker, but I plan to pick it all from the same store which is only 1.5hrs drive away. Is 600W of power overkill? Not enough?

600W is fine.

Hey, I'm the guy with the crazy spec request from the thread from this morning.

Well, there IS the i7-6900K, but I wasn't aware that i7 doesn't have 8-core MOBILE processors.

>Yes, it's fucking retarded. What you should do is get a regular desktop that you can remote into, and then a nice lightweight laptop to carry around.
Well, remoting is not the point. Carrying the power is the point.
It's not just having the power available, it's having the power THERE (especially when travelling and the internet is shit)

>I had a great portable computer setup for you, but it's only 6 core, and it's ugly Intel so it's probably "tuned for Windows"
Oh well
Well, 8-THREAD COULD work. On the other hand:

>... Or, alternatively, realize that these minimum requirements of yours are utterly retarded, and go with a mobile workstation like the Lenovo P50 or P70.
Looked at this. The P70 would actually be a good option. It almost covers what I was hoping for, and I suppose I could always partition the drives, anyway for multi-boot
It also says I could change the optical drive for an extra hard drive. That's not bad. I CAN always get a USB optical drive.

The only thing I'm concerned about for this is the cores and frequency of the "6th Gen Xeon Mobile Processor".
3GHz is necessary, but I can OC the processor. If it's like 2.5 or something with OC to like 3.1-3.2, that's fine.

64GB RAM would work fine. That's more than the minimum

It seems like it'd work, and it's a HELL of a lot cheaper than I was anticipating at only about $1800. I was looking for something between $3-10K
>At least I hadn't even begun to anticipate that I could get one for under $3K
So, that's a major plus. Although, if there's one more in line with my original specs for maybe $5-7K, that'd be fantastic.
$5-7K was kinda my original estimate for a machine like this

Kabylake won't be much better than Skylake I don't think

I'm thinking about downsizing my PC to micro ATX or ITX. I have an ATX motherboard and a NH-U14s already, so if there's a sufficiently compact case that will allow me to salvage either of these parts, it would be much appreciated.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Rchz6X

Actually, just went into the customize page. It would work, and it'd be within my estimate price range, around $8K

...

....epic

Help me fellow fat/g/uys, I'm looking for a new case for my pc upgrade, basically what I want is something clean looking, with good sound dampening, atx form factor, and at least one 5.25 inch bay.
The cases I'm currently looking at are the define r5/r4 the silent base 600 or possibly enthoo pro m.
Primarily I'm looking to upgrade because my current case a gx500 has a tendency to pick up vibrations and work like a sound box on a string instrument making the whole thing loud as hell.
Considering that, the silent base one might be best, but are there any reasons not to pick it and go for something else?

Which brand should I go for?

cooler master seems nicer.

i'd suggest either that or Noctua, but you clearly want lighted with color

pcpartpicker.com/list/wXsGPs

my car got hit and I just bought it back, replaced the bumper and headlights and have ~$2000 left. Why shouldn't I blow it on this?
pcpartpicker.com/list/wXsGPs

>got a 1500 EUR worth computer just by buying used parts and replacing three fucking capacitors
I love life

What kind of gpu to cpu price ratio should I be looking to spend for a mid level gaming pc?
2:1? 3:1? 1:1?

Depends on if you are going for optimal price performance ratio today or if you want a processor that you can continue to use for longer. Say a skylake i3 you could easily go 2:1 or even 3:1 on your gpu:cpu cost ratio, but with a 6600k you could likely use that could again for another 2 gpu upgrade cycles (or maybe more if cpu tech continues to devlop at a crawl) in which case it's a much closer ratio. The former has better cost ratio today, but the later may end up cheaper in the long run.

What are some of the best micro atx cases on the market right now? by best I mean it both looks nice and it keeps all of my components cool and quiet. Also, this will be a gaming pc so it will need to be able to fit a graphics card.

Also, is this copyright infringement?

Reminder than kurisu is the mascot for the pcbg thread.

fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/node-series/node-202
Something like this? Do do you mean a Mid ATX tower?

Okay, an updated build from yesterday. For extra storage I'll throw in a SATA drive I already have and the rest use externals. This build is running 2 1080p monitors, one at 144Hz.

gonna drop like 130~160 on a drive to put a new install of my new OS on.
Sandisk ultra II,(480GBSSD, 140$), or some WD Black?

Ssd for certain, just not a pooinloodisk one.

Got this from an user who seemed pretty educated on this thread yesterday. I know nothing about building PC's, but I want more eyes on it before I start buying. 1400$ in the budget. Tell me it's shit anons. pcpartpicker.com/user/planetlockdown/saved/#view=zqXLkL

Then you reccomend one, thats what logicalincriments told me and it currently looks like the best deal by a decent bit.
I Mean, theres also the samsung 850
on.com/Samsung-850-EVO-2-5-Inch-MZ-75E500B/dp/B00OBRE5UE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474127452&sr=1-1&keywords=SSD
but it really pushes the limits of my budget.

Post the link directly to the one you're writing about next time as that link has multiple builds.

Anyways all I can say is don't cheap out on your psu

Crucial m300 is pretty cheap.
Sandisk has the x400 that is the replacement for the ultra ii line.
You could try your luck with the 840 evo, but I heard those have problems.
If it's really just for booting, maybe you should consider a 240-256GB drive instead.

woah, nevermind that actually.
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147568
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233949
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820301255
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211985
Cred Forums, which one?

Oh, you replied, I'll look at those too, thanks.
OH, and I already have a 30 gigabyte SSD im gonna partition for booting. This is for actual use.

I think I very well may get the Crucial, thanks Cred Forums

New hbm cards when. I'm staving with a cute but useless 610.

How usable is a Intel E6550 Core 2 Duo at 2.33ghz today?

Also, if I wanted to record an XLR microphone could I buy a special soundcard?

if you going with a $1400 build, I'd get a better PSU

>roommate bought Corsair Force LE 240gb ssd (i think that's the name)
>I have a 64gb OCZ Vertex 4 I got 4 years ago
>his PC boots faster than mine
what gives? as far as I can tell, my SSD is faster, and at the bare minimum, same speed

is there a way to speed up an SSD? maybe it's due to being at 95% full capacity?

How's this for a high end gaming rig?
pcpartpicker.com/list/yGcXkT

pcpartpicker.com/user/Erickazo99/saved/K3dCJx
Have been posting my list on every pc general thread i'm sure you guys have seen it before, im excited to build this shut but also nervous at the same time. I already own the case and fan, and an old ass gtx 570 that i got from my buddy. How does everything else look?

your build is shit
pcpartpicker.com/list/gwg6D8
this is better

>1070
worthless
1060 6gb or 480 are better

You just changed the ram, and gpu

My vote for the next OP image

I already own a 980 Ti, I forgot to mention that the GPU was just a placeholder for when the 1080 Ti comes out.

and storage, and case i.e. everything that was wrong with it

I thinking about getting 2 480s or should I go with a 1070 or 1080 instead?

>having a 980 ti
>getting a 1070
>$500 sidegrade/placeholder
its like you love to throw money away

I meant in the build, I'm not actually getting one.

if you don't care about playing games day 1 on release, then get the 480s

You can just enter any 980ti, manually set the price you payed, and Mark as purchased.

Should be the catalog with all the personal PC build advice threads circled.

pcpartpicker.com/list/wxfWtJ
Update. The total build minus the GPU comes out to about $1.5k

PCPartPicker part list: pcpartpicker.com/list/b22dHN

Is it dumb to put a 1070 in a mini ITX case? Also use the stock CPU cooler?

1070 in ITX is fine as long as the card fits in there. Stock cooler is fine, but i'd get some other

32 gigs of ram? What for?
And you dont need the thermal compound, noctua with always come with their own NT-H1 or what its calles.

If that build really only uses 266W then you could probably save some cash by buying a 500W PSU. Also, with only 250GB of storage, you're gonna run out of room in no time.

>32 gigs of ram? What for?
RAM disk, and I didn't see that it came with thermal compound, I'll remove that now,

RAM drive for what? Your OS?

I'll add a 2TB drive later. I also already have some external HDDs

Gotcha, yeah other than that you should have no problem with a 1070 as long as it fits like that other user said.

do you even know what a ramdisk is?

>Mini ITX
>stock cooler

Enjoy your house fires and melted PCIE card slot

I'm retarded, I forgot about the concept of volatile memory. Some quick research says that some Linux distros can be booted from an actual hard disk and run on a ramdisk for the session. You never answered my original question though. What do you need crazy fast access to so badly that you need a ram disk for it. Just curious.

How can i fix the shitty white noise that I hear while using my speaker? The noise gets bigger the more the graphc card is under load.

The motherboard is a Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 7, the graphic card a Gainward GTX 970 Phantom.

Sounds like you're running a signal too close to power.

im not that guy that is buying it, but you can use it for whatever files or program you want. it can be nice when editing media files.

put gpu in a different PCI-E slot or get a DAC

this.
is your audio cords close to the psu or your power cables?

Change the power saving settings on you os and bios also what psu do you have ?

Also try connecting the speakers to a different outlet

I have a thermaltake core X9, and I'm looking to redo my cooling.
I have no idea what sort of airflow I should attempt, and I don't know if I should be that anal about it.

built a few years ago, how long will it be good for?

>implying power saving settings has anything to do with the audio

you should not be anal about it, unless you do someothing retarded like putting all the fans the wrong way it will work with minimal difference in temp no matter how you do it.

basic is intake in front/bottom and out at the back/top

Fair enough, thanks for the example. Seems like it could be pretty useful.

You're gonna want a push pull setup, but it's really up to you. Take into account the fact that hot air rises.

That graphics card is probably the first thing you should change.

I was using both the front jack panel and wireless receivers for both mouse and keyboard: using the jacks in the back panel while moving the wireless receivers in the front reduced the noise, but it's still here, so I'm looking for some ways to eliminate this.

Actually the motherboard has the audio processor on top of the psu and also it's under the graphic card.

I'll try that.

I did the second one and it reduced the problem.

1-2 years more with a new gpu.

That probably isn't an ideal setup. Also, yeah, USB ports near the audio jack can produce noise. If I have my USB mouse connected to the port next to my headphone jack on my laptop I get some irritating static as well. Electrical isolation is key to all of this. I know there are some meshes out there that can act as a sort of faraday cage, which is what you want for your audio, so see if there's a way you can shield your mobo.

Depends which of those builds you're taking about

If it's the first one ("more expensive") I'd opt for a smaller SSD & put the extra $ towards a better PSU. Also you don't really need an aftermarket CPU cooler unless you're going to overclock.

A larger case would be easier to work with, especially for a first-timer, unless you specifically want a smaller form factor

Don't forget the cost of a monitor, kb/m, os, etc. (unless you already have those)

...

Guys, got a problem.

On one hand, I can build a new PC for 368 with the GPU I already own(granted it's old, but it still works for the games I play) or I can split it for a prebuilt with my parents.

I'm stuck between experiencing the joys of building a cheap, but upgradeable PC, and just getting a sick 700-something pre-built that is pretty good.

Buy it yourself. You can stretch a budget on parts far more than you can shopping for mediocre prebuilts. Plus who wants something that's half not yours.

Got a good point there, but this is what I'm currently setting myself up with.

pcpartpicker.com/list/j896D8

SSD is not worth it for that budget.
Western Digital WD10EZEX Caviar Blue and Seagate ST1000DM003 Barracude are both 1TB drives for less than that 120GB SSD, and they're 7200prm so the speed difference won't be as big. You'll get a lot more storage for your money, and you could use the savings to get 2x4GB RAM sticks instead of 1x8.

Also, is there a reason you need wifi and can't use ethernet?

the mobo only has 2 ram slots no point in filling them all on a budget built.

i agree with everything else unless he can reuse an old SATA hard drive, then an SSD is ok.

Do this, I'm glad I didn't go for SSD when I was on a budget. Now that I have some money, I have an SSD and my old hard drive as an archive.

What's the best low-profile RAM I can buy for ~$80?

>Also, is there a reason you need wifi and can't use ethernet?
Parent's wont let me trail a 50 foot ethernet cord through the house/walls.

Just got a no for it.
>SSD is not worth it for that budget.
And as much as I'd like to get one of the HDDs, I prefer the SSDs, as I already have this 1TB drive that I play my steam games(20 FPS erryday allday) from anyway.

lacie.com/personal/porsche-design/porsche-design-mobile-drive-pc/#specs

And honestly, I can see what you're saying, but I'm actually thinking about getting a smaller SSD just to hold windows 7/ReactOS on instead.

Fair enough, probably best to save for future parts anyway.

Forgot to say that I have a Corsair CX600M.

pcpartpicker.com/product/Xv38TW/corsair-memory-cmk8gx4m2b3733c17

>Parent's wont let me trail a 50 foot ethernet cord through the house/walls.
even if you run it along wall lists fixed with pic related?

tell them people can steal their personal and bank info with wifi.

Yes, they don't want that in the house.

>tell them people can steal their personal and bank info with wifi.
Good luck with that, they're actually more tech-savvy than they would appear to be.

Also, small thought, but-
I should stick with the Intel i3-6100 over a Pentium G4400, shouldn't I?

>they don't want that in the house
your parents sound like uptight faggots

>Good luck with that
then get better wifi equipment, that shit will have high as fuck ping and packet loss.

>I should stick with the Intel i3-6100 over a Pentium G4400, shouldn't I?
absolutely yes.

believe me its a bit more expensive but worth the price
pcpartpicker.com/list/BtyMVY

Grow the fuck up. Who do you think pays for the house?

Stick with the i3.

>being this triggered
my parents drill holes and use fasteners for cables in their houses

and i have my own apartment

enjoy your shit tier internet connection, faggot

Well good for you, buddy.

>tells someone to grow up
>still lives in his parent's basement

>your parents sound like uptight faggots
It's not really that, I've gone full NEETmode, only coming out of my room for food and going to work, and the cable would accommodate that even more, hence why they don't want it.
>then get better wifi equipment, that shit will have high as fuck ping and packet loss.
Got any recommendations then? I'm at wits end trying to keep this under 400.
>absolutely yes.
Thought as much.

>believe me its a bit more expensive but worth the price pcpartpicker.com/list/BtyMVY.
Again, I'm on a budget. Under 400, plan to upgrade when the skylake prices start dipping when Kaby Lake shows up.

Pretty much this.
>enjoy your shit tier internet connection, faggot
Funny thing about shit internet-it's something that's easy to adapt to because you've lived with it so long.

Kaby lake is literally skylake (as is usual for Intel), and the 1080ti will still be expensive as fuck

>easy to adapt to when the net DOES go to shit because you've lived with shit-tier for so long.

Also, what the fuck is up with the RX 470's Price model?

Shit's weird as hell, used to be 180, now it's 200.

Mine is 2:1 and lots of people agree but going off of us and our needs is retarded. What do you need in a CPU? What do you need in a GPU?
Going with only this generation isn't going to bottleneck shit so pick and choose

Intel 600p Meme2 SSD

He asked what for, we all know that ramdisk is a thing, it just has little if no purpose

pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/X9rcCJ,4Yn2FT/

>[current year]
>even considering a HDD for OS drive

Wrap your audio cable (including the ones from mobo to front jack) in tinfoil or get some kind of external DAC
This is an extremely common problem and the reason why onboard mobo audio is unacceptable even if it's the highest bitrate and quality

scalpers. the 480 should be around ~200 but supply is low and it's almost $250 in my country..

same reason SSDs are a thing, you retarded fuck

it's only unacceptable if it doesnt work. it's fine for the vast majority of people, otherwise they would save a few bux and remove it from mobos.

>Gotta have muh speed
>Proceeds to simply watch YouTube and play steam
>Oops no ram left fuck
>Guys why is my computer so slow?

Any advice on this build?

pcpartpicker.com/list/dvG89W

But clearly it isn't. It's not there to be a long-term solution for those who want clean audio.
Electromagnetic audio interference from the motherboard has been a fact of life for decades, in all honesty mobo-based audio is intrinsically stupid and prone to issues.
And an external DAC that matches you mobo frequency/bitrate should be $20, an external DAC that has better quality and possibly inputs or preamps should be $100
DACs for $200 or more are memes
The point is get an external, get the synthesis away from your motherboard and it will fix the problem

>implying you have to use everything for the ramdisk

like i said, vast majority is fine with onboard audio because it works good enough.

Your speakers are shit, remove them and go to a pro audio shop to find much better ones for much cheaper
Your motherboard is shit just... just get a different one nobody should ever pay for a $400 mobo
That's a fuckton of ram but I ain't judging
That CPU is fine and all but switching to a Z170/LGA1151 setup will save you half a thousand dollars
You do not need extra thermal paste your cooler comes with the best stuff around
>he didn't buy the fans in multi-packs

Well this guy isn't. I'm suggesting an alternative and explaining what the problem most likely is.
I'm not gonna tell him to deal with because it's good enough and he's just nitpicking

Are you on any kind of budget? That looks like an overkill gaming build, so I'd like to suggest a Creative ZXR sound card, and either some ATH-AD700s or ATH-AD900s if you care about performance in online games.

Otherwise, .

Any reason to opt for 64GB over 32GB?

I'd say not to get those headphones because the ath-m50s were such absolute garbage they've left me convinced that audiotechnica is entirely shit. I refuse to take the gamble and find out if one of their products is good when I know of many headphones that are good

>Not going bigger with the cooler, especially in a case that big
>Buying other thermal paste when Noctua's is top of the line
>Fully modular
>Paying for wangblows pro
>Not getting ac on the wifi adapter
>Buying sleeve bearing fans that cost more than Noctuas
>64GB of RAM
>Internal disk reader
>Paying that much for not monitors

>doesnt say what it's for
>X99
>not even best noctua fan
>extra thermal paste when cpu cooler comes with paste
>all dat ram
>not even fastest ram
>seagate barracuda shit

Because we all know the good reviews and hype for the m50s are NOT accurate whatsoever, or more likely written by children getting their first headphone

Photoshop.
That's literally the only possible reason I could think of ever

When you have 64GB of ram, the computer isn't about performance any more. It's about how good it makes your penis feel.

I suggested them because I own both of them, and they are both spectacular, if a bit bass-anemic.
If he has a ROG swift and a GTX 1080 though, this is a gaming machine and I don't know many headphones that are near as good for gaming as the AD700/900.

Anyone?

I mean he apparently has a $350 budget for audio, he could buy a really nice stereo monitor setup with a hardware EQ (which for a casual, completely changes things for the better)
He could buy a decent 2.1 setup (I'd still recommend 2 better speakers than 2 cheaper ones and a sub)
He could even buy a "home theater audiophile crap" 5.1 setup for that price if 5.1 is somehow a necessity

Well there's 3D rendering as well, but my question was mainly what the poster was planning to do with it.

I bought my m50s before the hype for $100, still think they're a good pair of cans for what I paid for them. If I wanted really high quality headphones I'd get some Sennheisers though.

What exactly are you asking? MicroATX /mITX cases that fit ATX boards?

Shoulda talked to me I sold mine for $30 about 2 weeks after I bought them. I would've sold them earlier but I wanted to see if the burn-in meme was real so I pink-noises them a few days. It didn't change anything.
My DT770s were the next pair I bought after that and I'm still extremely happy with them. I then bought DT880s for music production and HD598s for casual EQ-boosted headphone music, very nice but nothing near as good as my 2 monitors

I'm just looking for a more portable case mainly. If it means changing out my motherboard or cooler, than so be it, but I would like to keep my cooler more than I would like to keep my motherboard.

>Scalpers

I had a feeling

Thanks man, looking at the reviews for both...
goddamn, talk about a rock and a hard place.

This was years ago. I'm definitely more of a headphone listener than a monitor listener, mainly because I don't live alone and don't have a good quiet space to listen when I am alone (other people are asleep). When I worked at a theater doing sound design I really did love the booth Mackie monitors though. What monitors do you have?

Corsair has a decent selection of mATX/mITX cases, I'd start by perusing their catalog. Other than swapping mobos it's possible you could get a straightforward swap.

>tfw mackie monitors
>tfw good
>tfw cheap
I have MR5s but honestly after I get a new monitor(screen) am gonn buy a new pair of monitors(speakers)

i'd go with intel cus they seem to never make a shitty product. both their NIC and SSDs have top notch reliability.

ITX case and mobo with SFX psu. most cases even ITX ones made in the last few years can fit a NH-D14

Zen APU

Kekked at that image.

What others are you considering? I'm not familiar with many other brands.

Me neither, these monitors are years old and when I did get them I just went to guitar center and got what was on sale.
I'd recommend going to a store that lets you test them and bringing your own music, maybe stretch out whatever EQs they have hooked up and see where a speaker seems weak/boosted.
I need to get back in the loop before getting new monitors again, when I got my mr5s I had just finished suffering through the ath-m50's and wanted something I could be confident wasn't complete shit

By the way I'm only getting new monitors because at really high volumes those 5" cones can't keep up with ALL the frequencies, and if I use them to play music for a whole house they'll get too hot and thermal cutoff every 30 seconds till I turn down
Like they're awesome, but I need more max volume

Again this is only a problem when playing music loud enough for an entire noisy house to hear, which isn't the point of monitors in the first place

What should I buy first?
HDR 4K TV (50")
1440p monitor + arm (atm I have a 1070 and a 1080p monitor)
JBL 305

1440p monitor

A 4K tv likely wouldn't be fast enough and good for a computer, plus your 1070 wouldn't be able to play gays on it, and they're expensive right now and will quickly do down in price in the next year or two

Thanks m8, so first I´m gonna buy the 1440p monitor, kinda want to buy a 1080p tv for muh anime and lastly the JBL

I'm having doublethoughts about the i3-6100, I can save money getting the Pentium G4400 and holding out until prices drop, while making the build affordable in the first place.

But the i3-6100 is vastly better, but for twice the price. But at the same time, the G4400 CAN game on ARMA 3 with nothing too major from the videos I've seen...

Fuck man, this shit is tough.

For reference, I'm running a i7-640m in this laptop, so it ain't much but it's what I'm currently used to at the moment.

I bought a new hard drive that turned out to be defective from a 3rd party seller on Amazon and the seller won't give me a refund. I'm never buying from a 3rd party again.

Why can't you just return it?

Also I'm pretty sure that there's a manufacturer's warranty no matter who sells the drive

The 3rd party seller has to accept my request for a refund. I can't just put it in a mail box and send it back.

Oh right. I'll try to send it to the manufacturer. Thanks.

>I can't just put it in a mail box and send it back.
Of course not, you retard. But no seller is going to give you a "refund" it will be a "return"

I don't have the option to return it. The seller has to accept my request, but they won't because I opened it and used it in my computer.

What's a good Z1Z0 Mobo, Cred Forums? I can't decide.
pcpartpicker.com/list/McBCd6

a corsair 750d airflow fits MOST of those needs, but desu you're being pretty picky

pcpartpicker.com/list/RYRmD8
Looking to make a computer with some solid game capabilities, and room to expand/upgrade in the future, but for less then a grand an a half. I think I've done well, but if you can suggest better parts for similar prices, or similar parts for better prices, lemme know. I'd really like to keep the Storm Trooper case though.

I am think about buying a used WD drive (pic related)
From the look of it, it seems pretty good to me but I am not sure, what do you guys think?
(the one who took the picture was the seller, dont blame me)

I have a powermac g5. I'm thinking of modding the case and using it for a build. Anyone done this before?

How much are they charging?

>No K part but you have a Z170 motherboard and an aftermarket cooler
>32GB of RAM
>No SSD for a build this expensive
>Barely enough PSU
>$150 ethernet port
>Buying an aftermarket fan with a cheapo bearing

$23-ish, note that I am not living in usa

I guess that's not a bad deal. I'd pay the extra money for a new 1TB drive though.

Also I forgot to mention that a brand new 500GB HDD always cost more than 50 bucks around here

That's terrible. You can't hoard anime with those prices.

>I guess that's not a bad deal
I find that deal too good to be true, personally. For 20 bucks either people sells "brand new" 250GB HDD or 500GB HDD with at least 10k PoHs. A new 1TB usually costs $60 at the very least
I am ready stretching my budget (such a life of a 3rd world poorfag) but I think I am gonna pull the trigger on this one. Unless there's some other problems I am not aware of, I can only hope it will work.

Don't need cooler, stock (comes with CPU) will be fine
Only get the Z170 mobo in the future if you want to crossfire or get an unlocked CPU in the future
Too much RAM, just get x2 8GB
Your mobo comes with an ethernet port
Get an HGST hard drive

Get a 250GB or 500GB SSD

Honestly you need to look at example builds

Man, I really only know how to put one together, I don't know the actual market. That's why I'm asking for USEFUL suggestions, not just pointing out where i'm lacking and being an idiot.

Thank you for the useable comments, user.

I've heard things about SSDs, and I just don't know if I want to bother with having one as my booting drive or not. Based on the information available to me, using it in any other capacity would wear it out so quickly I'd be wasting money, unless it's something else that rarely accesses it.

>I really only know how to put one together, I don't know the actual market
Not him, but honestly it's like you don't even know what the components do (ethernet card, rly m8?)

Also you're on Cred Forums, everyone is an asshole around here. Wear a thicker skin faggot

What country?

You want one.

Somewhere in south-east asia, that's all I can tell you

Save a little money and buy a 4GB video card. You won't be playing games that require more than 4GB on that card.

Get a SSD. A 120GB SSD can be found for $40. If you're willing to pay $20 more, you can get 240GB. You'll never go back to HDD for anything other than storage.

If you're trying to save money, don't buy a CPU cooler. Just use the cooler that comes with the CPU. It's fine.

Why did you add a Ethernet card? There is a Ethernet port on the back of every motherboard. You could have just looked at pictures of the motherboard.

>wear it out
What Israelian told you that?

Who is telling you that SSDs wear out quickly?

Because I'm an idiot, plain and simple there.

To be frank, an acquaintance who actively follows hardware tech like it's his goddamn life. Not saying he's right, just saying what I've heard. I'm never against being wrong and corrected.

I'll definitely look into a lower power/price video card.

Not trying to save too much money, but I do appreciate the idea.

Forgot to ask, is there any anomalies you see in that drive I posted?

If you don't think the stock cooler is too loud or not keeping your CPU cool enough, you can always buy a after market cooler later. Just try the stock cooler first.

Nothing looks strange to me. Here's my hard drive in comparison.

They look familiar except for "seek error rate" (mine has like 100 current, 253 worst and 51 threshold) Any thing to worried about that?

That is to be expected from a used hard drive. It just means the parts are a little worn out. Your data is still safe. Don't worry about it.

Alright, thank you very much for the help!

If you were to build a cool, quiet, and compact Linux box, what would you build?

>FX 8320
>RADEON HD 7870
>8GB RAM
What upgrade?

a rx 470 or 480 would be good

What of the CPU? my motherboard wont let me overclock

i think it's fine, but if you want to spend a lot money, get another cpu and motherboard.

Thanks. I dont think i need to upgrade the ram since it never goes over 90%

Nevermind.

Bought all the parts, here I go folks.
Wish me luck next week.

Might wanna have a look at the Thermaltake Suppressor F31

Anyone install windows 7 on an m.2 ssd (specifically an intel 600p)? Shit doesn't show up during the install as a drive to be able to install on. Apparently intel doesn't have a specific driver for the 600p, and using NTlite to modify a W7 iso with the nvme hotfix doesn't work.

The whole system draws like 300W.

can i do better for $1000 all in? I have a ssd.
pcpartpicker.com/list/tBg9cc

i3
110 itx ac mobo
1x8g ram
modular psu
2tb hdd
27" freesync monitor
2.1 audio
backlit keyboard and laser mouse

That's way too much for a shitty keyboard.
pcpartpicker.com/list/fYc89W

What is the opinion on Hybrid drives?

My current rig:
>i5-3570k @ at 4ghz
>sapphire 7970 oc'd to ghz edition
>8gb 1600 ddr3
>256gb ssd
>550w psu
>1080p 60hz 24in monitor

Thinking of upgrading the gpu department, maybe for a 1070. I know it might be retarded with my current monitor, but would I be able to play anything (including games with heavy visual mods) at a locked 60 Fps?

Also which is best for a monitor: 144hz @1080p or 60/75hz @1440p?

Bad

Reposting here because didn't get a response in /sqt/.

I have 4 Hard drives in my server. 2 x 2TB (one from seagate, one HGST) and 2x4TB. (Both Toshiba X300's). In speccy and CrystalDisk the drives Toshiba Drives are showing up as "warning" although both show green in regards to all the specs of the drive. A bit of Googling has shown that this is probably due to the Sector Reallocation count. (360 on one drive, 240 on the other). Both Toshiba drives have around 200 days of up time since purchase with countless terabytes of data written to them.

Should I be worried? The count hasn't increased at all and I was told an ever increasing reallocation count is signs of a dying drive. Was also reading that large capacity drives usually have more reallocated sectors and a higher accepted threshold for them. This somewhat appears to be the case because both my 2TB drives have somewhere in the neighborhood of 20+ reallocated sectors.

The 7970 ghz edition (i.e. r9 280X) would do well at both 1080p and 1440p although you'd have to set the AA down as well as shadows if you're looking to maintain 60 FPS @ 1440p.

I personally play on a 32" 2560x1440 from Samsung. 60HZ. Best of both worlds. More pixel count than 1080p so I can have windows side by side without feeling like they're squished, and the pixel count isn't TOO much higher (like 4k is) that I need a crazy GPU to drive it. I'd say 60hz 1440p 27" > 144hz 1080p 24". Unless you play nothing but racing games that is.

As for upgrades, I'd sit on your GPU as AMD stuff is only getting stronger with the new DX12 games coming out. You might want to consider more RAM. 32GB kits of RAM are dirt cheap now (2x8GB kit being $50). Maybe also look around for an i7-3770k to replace your 3570k. While the i5 2500k/3570k are still strong chips, newer games are actually starting to take advantage of moar coars. I get better FPS/less FPS drop in GTA 5 with my 6700k @ 4.2ghz/980ti than my buddy with his i5-2500k @ 4.8ghz/gtx 1070.

But the i7 3770k also has 4 cores. Only difference is hyperthreading.

And tahiti chips aren't dx12 compatible.

I just shitpost, listen to music and watch chinese cartoons from my laptop. Maybe some light image editing on the side.
I'm interested in building a PC and while I have somewhat of an idea of what to do, I have no idea how much I should be spending before it becomes too much for what I need. Looking at Logical Increments, I'm just thinking of making the Entry/Modest build. Yes? No?

Problem is that you dont know what you want.
An entry build will shit itself if you want to play AAA titles or work on it, like editing, etc.

>rig

I don't game at all and editing is nothing large, just occasional ps or even paint.net

>autism

Stay on your shitty day-care containment board for autistic man-children, aspie.

>And tahiti chips aren't dx12 compatible
Not exactly true, but GCN1 doesn't receive the most benefit.

You can probably do all that on a chromebook

If anything, graphics card could use an upgrade. A 1070 will allow you to max almost anything at 1080p, with the exception of DE:MD. (Stupid performance loss on Ultra for almost no visual gain, High or Very High is just fine.) The 1070 really is a waste at 1080p 60Hz though.

Save for a good monitor (Freesync or Gsync, possibly HDR) and by that time the 490 will be out and the 1070 will have come down in price

Dont invest more than 500 then, evee that is a generous budget for what you need

Why are you triggered, m8? 75% of this thread is always about building gaming rigs

You're on Cred Forums, this board is meant for people who rice linux and do other autistic things

Anywhere I can reduce costs? This is in AUD.

>reduce cost
Almost everything
>4gb ram
That is not enough, RAM is so cheap anyways, get 8gb.
>120GB SSD
Is 120GB enough for you and do you really need an SSD if you want to save money?

You don't need a GPU but you do need 8GB total memory. Consider a mini ITX build

>8gb
Okay.

>Is 120GB enough for you and do you really need an SSD if you want to save money?
Was gonna put OS on it. It's an expense I'm willing to make.

I think I'm thinking way too hard about this.

What type of fans, airflow or static pressure, do I get for a front intake with a solid front like the Define S? What type of fan should go in the back? Are these propeller-style fans actually pieces of crap that can't even penetrate dust filters? Do I get 120mm or 140mm for better airflow/static pressure?

I don't evenn know right now.

4GB is enough if he's doing nothing except watching movies or browsing internet.

Drop the graphics card and maybe spend some of that money on proper i3 instead. Internal graphics cards are good for everything except gayming.

Don't know if he's anything like me, but I break 4GB easy when browsing, even on XFCE.

I eventually want to run dual or even triple monitor down the line for efficiency in uni work.
Would any cheapo GPU do for this?

Fuckin modern websites man.

I have 4 tabs open with scripts on I'm at 3GB.

If on linux, yes. But windows would fold if 64 bit. And since he said hes not certain what to do and ram is cheap, why not 8gb?

Even integrated GPU's support multi-monitor setups, although most motherboards don't probably have that many connectors.

But if you dont have multi-monitor setup right now then you dont need to worry about it. If the need arises then you can install a graphics card later on. You might have more money or different need then.

Shaved off $43. Anything else to change?

See if you can get the RAM as a set.

2x4gb is $4 more expensive.
1x8gb is $6 more expensive.

Your mobo has only 1 video port, if you want more than 1 monitor, get another mobo or a cheap gpu.

>get another mobo
Any suggestions? I was planning on doing multi monitor later but it would be cool if I have the option now.

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/63mwgL
What do you think of this?
RAM is a placeholder, could find yours.

See if there are cheaper ITX options mobo and case-wise. Some ITX mobos have HDMI and DVI, although they may not work at the same time.

If you do not plan on gaymun, you can pick-up some shit cheap GPU on eBay with 2+ DVI ports (nvidia 8xxx series comes to mind).

Torn bewtween 1080 EVGA FTW,MSI Gaming X and Zotac Amp Extreme.Is there anything that tips the scales?They all seem pretty good and I would just like something that keeps itself quiet,stable and lowish temps, maybe good support.

>What do you think of this?
Well I don't know shit but if it's good enough for my needs, then yeah.

Will consider.

Thanks for the help.

Chinese (adult) cartoons, shitposting and casual editing with paint.NET, right?
Yes. My laptop with i5-4200U on eco mode handles that easily.
And if you like, you have room for a small graphics card in a year or so, the GTX950 or RX460 are options.

Not sure about the RAM.
I know lower CAS is better but high frequency is also important?

shit user what are you doing

>$290 for 8GB of ram
The fuck?

>DDR4-4266 2x4GB
>289.99$
GOOD GOY

Got a new PC and it has been randomly freezing for some reason. Have to force restart it. When playing games like Overwatch, it freezes for almost a second. Any ideas what might be the issue?

Windows.

Windows 10.
Also, I have reinstalled Windows to fix it but to no avail.

for

When did the freezing start?

Around a week ago? It would just freeze up and would have to force restart it. After reinstalling windows, it has frozen once. Only tried overwatch but there is noticeable lag in character animations. Bro has tried another power supply so don't think the issue is there.

So you have this pc like lets say 2 months and now it started to freeze randomly under load?
Sounds like a bad driver or broken part. First guess would be gpu or mobo.

i7-6700 stock fan, MSI B150M PRO-VDH mobo here, 1 month old, it was working fine, now it can't detect the CPU fan despite it working normal, anyone any suggestions? I did try to unplugging and plugging back in (in CPUFAN1)

What's the best inexpensive bluetooth card or usb?

pcpartpicker.com/list/Y3pCd6
on a 1600 budget
any thoughts?
it's mostly for gaming in 1080p and pirating
as you can see i have about 400 bucks left to budget, would like it to go towards future proofing if at all possible.
thank you.

also im going witha red/black gaymen theme here

Sounds like a faulty fancontroller on the mobo, i'd say.

can I check this in any way?

pcpartpicker.com/list/68G9cc

Connect a different fan to it or connect the fan to another connector.
If the fan is recognized by another connector, the controller is broken.

without having access to any of those. I am actually thinking about getting a different fan anyway but I want to see if the mobo is faulty in general.
thanks though

that cpu cooler is throw-up brown color

But one of the best available on the market.

Thanks user. Will give seller(scan UK) a call. Hope they're not a pain to deal with.

How do you decide whether or not you should build a new PC? Right now I'm gaming on an XPS 15 and it's rather limited what I can actually play. But at the same time I'm not even sure if there's anything I'm missing out on. Not to mention I have maybe 2 - 3 hours on weekdays at best to play.

I just have this urge to build a PC...

yes goy, there is no problem at all. just go ahead on buy an expensive gaming pc. theres nothign wong with it. you actaully need it. your xps is inadequate and you will be playing a lot.

I don't know what else to spend all my hard earned dosh on though so and I do enjoy gaming, just not as much as I used to.

little snek or big pepe

sshd? a waste of money.

Check newegg. I saw some for less than $1 a few weeks ago.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/Z3Mshq
Not sure if I should keep the 750TI or get this: newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125847 instead.

I upgrade if things aren't performing as well as I want them to. If you have the money to spare, go ahead and build yourself a computer.

just realized I forgot a decent cooler

I was going to suggest that you buy a GTX 950, but I see that Canadian prices are wacky.

Stock cooler is fine. Get a SSD instead.

but usually PSU works best on half load

Any suggestions for an SSD?

>have Titan X
Should I get a 1080?

newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211983

You might want to check ebay for used video cards. I bought a used GTX 960 for 120USD a month ago. You can also find the R9 280 for around the same price.

Wait for jan/feb 2017 if you can. Kaby Lake will probably get out then, so either get a Kaby Lake build in 2017 or a hopefully cheaper Skylake.

I thought about that since the 1080 ti might be out then as well...

Kant lake will be absolutely nothing new, just like normal
The 1080ti and better 4K game support is worth hoping for, Kaby lake over skylake isn't worth hoping for, and skylake will remain exactly as expensive because it's the same thing

Then wait for new year.

Sure, but if he's a rich fag who doesn't care, why not? Otherwise Skylake will be cheaper.

>browsing online for a new case
>found one that'd be pretty good
>check if my CPU cooler fits
>4mm room to spare
>check if my graphics card fits
>the numbers are bit confusing but it probably does not fit
Damn. It looked pretty sleek too.

>bought a new case
>CPU cooler should have 1mm of clearance
>didn't even check the GPU height
>it's that gigabyte video card that's really tall

>most of my pc parts for my first ever assembled pc are on my desk
>mobo and gpu are still in the mail for another couple of days
>friend doesn't stop memeing on me for not getting a slim case

SAVE ME

"Mid tower" is misleading nobody expects their case to be the size of a minifridge

>it's that gigabyte video card
You're telling me. This bastard would be otherwise fine it it werent for those fuckhuge fans.

The worst part of it is that I'm still not 100% sure if it fits or not. For some reason all the numbers I get are vague as hell.

About to pull the trigger, and I also cant spare any more money for it. Should I do it?

pcpartpicker.com/list/p4MHGf

No you should keep saving until you do have money to spare don't blow everything you have on a computer

>buy full tower/EATX compatible cases
>never worry about that shit

it's great never cutting your knuckles on metal too.

>but moooommm!

Drop down to RX 470 if you want to save some money, the difference is quite small. You have only one ram stick but that's fine, you can get another one later when you get more money.

B-but muh aestetics. mATX just looks so much better. Not to mention that matx motherboard on larger case triggers my autism.

Yeah I've seen full towers, fuck that
I'll take one shipping period of insecurity and *maybe* a return and enjoy my comfy little black box

I meant I couldn't spare any more money for the PC, sorry.

I still have savings and shit.

buy an rx 470 instead, and spend the money on an i5.

also, check out my sick trips

Nice digits, although doing that makes me go over budget a little bit.

But I'll see what I can do.

You can buy a cheaper motherboard, then.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128881&cm_re=b150-_-13-128-881-_-Product

this one seems like a good deal.

new thread

Im not very trusting with microATX, and also want to use the 2800 fast RAM.

Iv'e managed to achieve the budget price with this mobo: pcpartpicker.com/product/9GL7YJ/asrock-motherboard-z170ax1

Is it any good? Reviews say its its meh/ok.

ASRock is fine. I am currently using an ASRock board in my build, and I haven't had any problems so far.