/mkg/ - mechanical keyboard general

mechanical keyboard general - triggerin/g/ edition

>Buyer's template:
>Where to Buy:
>Use the buyer's template
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Previous thread

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amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Keycaps-Cherry-Mx-Clear/dp/B00W02J7Y6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474392368&sr=1-1&keywords=poker 3 keyboard
amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474393114&sr=1-2&keywords=switch tester

$150 or more
>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
>Form factor
Programmable RGB on every key

Ducky Shine 5/6 with something else than browns.

What's wrong with browns?
I'm leaning towards clears i think.

They feel like reds with dirt in the middle.

Clears are a good choice.

CM Storm Rapid TKL with Brown switches has been out of stock on amazon for a while.

Do you guys think they stopped making them? I just want to buy a cheap TKL keyboard for work.

What do ya guys think of barocco mistel?

Oops, forgot pic.

why isnt there some force actuation or something for cheap membrane keyboards
i got mx reds and shit these feel light
i mean i read the grams of reds when i bought but theres nothing to compare it to

if you're meant to use it in a fully split position (without fusing together to turn into a normal keyboard) then imo a split keyboard should have duplicate Y, B and 6 keys (one on each side) to allow for faster typing

Am I correct to assume that the firmware of this thing works similarly to that of the pok3r?
From what I can tell I'd assume just that, in which case it shares the same issues that that the pok3r, namely limited programmability and a laser-etched keycaps.

I'd recommend you take a look at the ultimate hacking keyboard, but that one's not even out yet and uses kalih switches (unless you get it with clears or greens), which don't have any particular form of regard to them, other than the fact that they're chink knockoffs.

The ergodox may be of interest to you.

Because nobody who buys cheap ass membrane keyboards cares about the actuation force.

Reds aren't even that light, I'm typing on 35g linears right now and I feel like we could still go lighter.

Still waiting on my F122 and F107 to come back to me

>implying that is the name

I agree. If i looked at it closely, it's just a poker splitted into two..

I've tried ergodox. It's too awkward typing on it.

UHK interests me, but is it true that it uses kailh switches? I didn't found it at their website..

Is HHKB a waste of money? Or should I go easy first with a Pok3r?

I thought hhkb is a meme at first. Then i get a loan from my friend.. and i ordered one in 1 day. The 'clack' is too comfy, and i'm from realforce.. if you already love topre and can adapt to the layout, i think you'll love it.

maybe get a switch tester which includes topre

there are some topre clone keyboards you could look at as well

but a pok3r should be fine

Looking to get my first mechanical kbd. I've used chiclet/laptop keyboards for the past 7 years and can't get used to desktop. Is there a switch kind that will let me type feeling like it's a laptop?


the main point of having a mech keyboard is that it feels better/different

>but is it true that it uses kailh switches?
Yes, they discussed different switch brands extensively in the recent newsletter.

I really like what these guys are doing and how open they're about everything. For all that I can tell, Kalih doesn't hold any particular regard in the keyboard community, but I trust these guys with that they're doing with their keyboard. I guess we'll see if Kalih is worth a second thought sometime in the near future.

On the note of which, you should subscribe to their newsletter. Lots of interesting stuff in there.

The HHKB is quite a niche keyboard, whether you'll like it or not is quite hard to say, especially if you have no previous experience with mechanical keyboards.

You can safely pass on the pok3r, all of the main selling points that it brings forward are flawed.

Also consider what this guy said >Is there a switch kind that will let me type feeling like it's a laptop?

I never implied it was the name... It's just the easiest way to refer to it. Fucking idiot;

>Using MX switches
It's just like it's 2009

Have a look on deskthority and geekhack, everyone refers to it as the Model F107 because the original had 107 keys and it's a whole lot fucking easier than saying 'Model F 107 key 6020218 4704

$300 or less
>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
don't know, my switch tester should arrive today, never tried mechanical switches or topre
>Form factor
not necessary, if it comes with one i'll have it off
>Previous/current keyboards
dell laptop :^(

My understanding is that for 60-65% keyboards, there are only a couple options. I don't want arrow keys so that eliminates the filco minila and leopold fc660x, leaving me (to my knowledge) only the hhkb and ducky mini, making my decision topre or cherry mx. The ducky uses ABS keycaps so I would have to replace those with PBT. However, it looks more solidly built with the aluminum case. How can I decide without getting to test them?

Indeed, gateron is the way to go.

I see. I guess i can look forward into it.. UHK is an interesting board, indeed. If i'm ordering it, i think i'll go with clear (don't know if they'll make kailh clear too)

actually kailh isn't as bad as it did tho, i also get a loaner of a razer blackwidow (yes,yes i know) with razer green swich (which is a OEM from kailh, i heard) and it's surprisingly quite consistent and rigid enough. And it's a little more clickier than mx blue. Quite fun to use.

>E-sports validated

>using topre switches

Have you seen the video, user? The click sound is actually more noisier than a mx blue, or even a buckling spring. I really, really hope that someone who uses that won't have any roommate..

>don't know if they'll make kailh clear too
They'll use cherry clears and cherry greens for clears and greens, it's mentioned at the start of the newsletter where they discuss cherry and why they didn't go with their switches all across the board.

>plunger moves
>keycap doesn't

Still waiting on my keyboardio.

aw shit is this the tada thread?
lovin this thing so far, already set up the fn layer so i can browse porn with one hand

It certainly is.

I'm seriously impressed by this thing. The keycaps are thick, the dyesub job is really clean (bare for one or two slightly misaligned legends) and the whole board feels solid as hell. The plastic case feels almost as sturdy as the metal case of my friends poker3r, not to mention that it's actually fully programmable too.
Even with shipping and tax this thing was a good deal.

What switches did you get?

i got yellows
im really surprised with the quality too
i think my 3 key legend is raised a little but its not a prob for me. the rest is very nice. nice and heavy too.
i paid more for my v60 than i did this so im really digging that

please respond

amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Keycaps-Cherry-Mx-Clear/dp/B00W02J7Y6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474392368&sr=1-1&keywords=poker 3 keyboard

Get a cooler master v2 switch tester, it features all cherry switches (except for clears) and a 45g Topre dome and spring assembly.

Don't get a pok3r.


is the purple the topre one?


well sheeit, I ordered this one

amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474393114&sr=1-2&keywords=switch tester

and it's arriving today. I guess I need to order the cooler master one too

good shit i love that lil tester
also fun to play with when im bored

Looking at the MK Disco. Are KBT switches decent?

KBT switches use the same OEM as Otemu so they are one of the better cherry clones out there

So as a first foray into mech boards, should I go with something similar to a CM Pro L?

>KBT switches use the same OEM as Otemu

Outemu is a OEM, they make noppoo switches, matias switches, and their own outemus.

KBTs are made by greetech, completely different OEM.

Where's the alt key?

either side of the space bar

Hey guys, this just arrived in the mail today and I'm loving it so far, the only wonky thing is the enter key design.


I bought it specifically for NKRO, but I'm still waiting on a PS/2 converter.

Can you guys recommend me some good keycaps to replace these default ones? All the corners are edged and it's making it harder for me to find the home key bumps.

Preferably under $20

It uses symbols instead of text kind of like pic related

I hope you bought that keyboard when it was on sale for $35.
I would recommend you get PBT keycaps. They are a bit more expensive but the jump in quality is definitely worth it. Maybe something like this is in your budget ebay.com/itm/NPKC-White-Grey-mixed-Thick-PBT-104-87-61-Key-caps-OEM-Profile-For-MX-Keyboard-/182271304729?var=&hash=item2a70376419:m:mYdYybxWby8WKGv_oFHrd5w

That Enter and Back Slash key will make it really hard to find keycap stets. You have to buy an ANSI and ISO set or else you can't replace them

If I can get black or slate I won't need to replace those keys and could just get a regular set

I'm looking at PBT keycaps and I'm having trouble justifying spending more than I did on the keyboard just in keys

well if you get really cheap ABS keycaps then they will end up like pic related in two weeks of heavy use. But I guess for a $30 keyboard it doesn't matter if they look like shit

Honestly would get a %60 Leopold Topre instead. More useful layout without wasted space for a logo like the HHKB. Also the snappy sounds the HHKB makes that some people praise aren't even useful because they're on the key upstroke and have nothing to do with actuation. They're just a side effect of cheap case mount construction.

What's the following?

Anyone bought sound dampeners from ebay?
Most items don't say how thick are they, I don't like wating a month for nothing.

Been looking for something in between 60% and TKL and the Tada68 looks great. Not sure what switches to go for through, coming from browns.

red scarf is on massdrop right now. It doesn't have as many options as the original group buy but its still a solid keyboard

yeah but muh $300 domes master race
you get to post pictures of it next to grass, and talk down to everyone. what's not to like?

>have to sign up to even look

reeee, pay us now to wait 3 months or we'll cut your keycap supply

if you don't like mass drop I can give you the taobao link and buy it from the Chinese

are these build it yourself kits sold on massdrop or do they come assembled?

they come mostly assembled. You just have to solder the switches

Fully blown AIDS in just one image, impressive

What are some other good boards between 60% and TKL? I know that the FC660s are supposed to be good bit what else is there?

I'm fairly confident I could make precision keys for most switch types using CNC machinery. Would there be any interest in aluminum/brass/possibly engraved keys?

How do you like my frog meme

there's the noppoo choc mini. its around $90-100


j'aimerais trouver un set BÉPO

Fais-le graver quelque part pêh

that would be pretty expensive and time consuming also what cnc machine do you have?

>have Leopold FC660C
>have KBT Race
>both of them broken because mini-USB ports are ass

I haven't had a keyboard in months I have to use my macbook pro keyboard fulltime

>not a proper set

If you would find me a proper azerty set that looks good I'd be happy to buy it

Solder a new port or just solder the wire directly.

Mini USB is still better than micro USB

its not that hard to wire up a new port. It doesn't have to be fancy just splice the cables and use lots of electrical tape

I agree, my SoundBlaster X7 has a micro USB port and it's loose now too lol

When will we learn

I think it's fine in concept, they just need to be reinforced, which they never seem to be.

Yeah I have no idea what I'm doing, I'll probably just make it worse. Never soldered anything in my life. I'm going to try to find someone who can fix it.

got the tada and now I want a split keyboard, kill me now

>It doesn't have to be fancy just splice the cables and use lots of electrical tape

Good luck with the characteristic impedance matching on that electrical tape, user.

If this gets anything better than USB 1.1 speeds I'll eat a cable.

I'd be interested in discussing issues that you ran into during production with you.

Though I'm sure you can find people who'd be interested in keycaps like that on reddit, geekhack, etc.

>Yeah I have no idea what I'm doing, I'll probably just make it worse. Never soldered anything in my life. I'm going to try to find someone who can fix it.

Lol you don't even have to solder. Just twist the two cables together. Thats what I do anyway

Well we own a shop with about 6 lathes and 4 mills. We have a Hardinge t42 standard and big bore, t51, infiniti mill, miyano lathe, okuma lathe and mill among other. all lathes are 2-axis with live tooling in X and Z, all mills are 4th axis capable.

materials are cheap for aluminum and brass, and if my speeds and feeds were good i could get good life out of them. idk, just a thought. I was thinking maybe something "steampunk" designed, with a stem that was turned down and big round buttons at the top, kind of like an old fashioned keyboard. Could engrave fancy letters on it too. idk, might be a fun saturday project :D

what electrical tape do you use. I've never had a problem like that before whether it was robotics or ethernet cables?

Looking at what I have, I don't see how it's possible for me to do what you suggest.

Thinking about $200 max without keycaps.
>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
I have browns, but I think clears would fit me better. Blacks are also a choice if the noise is very dampened with o-rings.
Preferably ISO, want to test ANSI on a cheapskate board before diving into more expensive ones first.
>Form factor
60%, will be my first.
Don't care. Preferably programmable since I'm contemplating on buying a jelly esc key.


If you own your own shop that makes thing easier. I just have a shopmaster cnc lathe in my garage and most of the metal I get is any scrap that we can't use..

>I've never had a problem like that before whether it was robotics or ethernet cables?
Then you've never used them above 100MHz. Which is honestly pretty common, it's not like your keyboard is going to put out many GBs of data per second over its usb port anyway.

High frequency wiring requires a very consistent, very precise impedance between transmission lines and ground. This is called the characteristic impedance and is usually set to 30/50/75 Ohms in comms systems.

If you change the impedance along a cable, or introduce a discontinuity which makes the signals degrage, or bounce back along the cable instead of travelling forward. THe result is your data gets garbled, not a problem at low speeds but when the individual pulses get smaller and smaller (higher frequency) the errors add up until your cable is basically an insulator.

USB in particular (above version 2.0) requires characteristic impedance on d+ and d- across all jacks and connectors, or it will revert to usb 1.1 speeds after detecting the cable is faulty.

shine 6 does not ship for 3 weeks right?

She lives! The AT to PS/2 coupled with the PS/2 to USB converter worked! Sorry if the image is flipped, don't know how to fix that on my shitty interim phone.


>going to buy a pok3r rgb
>only non-linear switches available are blue or brown
Goddamnit, which do I pick? Unless someone knows where I can get one with clears...

There are no cherry clear RGB switches. Ironically, cherry did not bother making a clear housing version of the clear switch.

Okay that's pretty amusing.
Still, fuck.

Is there a Kanji or a Kanji/English keycap set out there? MX of course.

Are greens any good? I have and i am currently using blues, i have been thinking of getting greens on the TEX Yoda when it drops.

what do to do, if loney key shift start working not 200€ thinkpad break not functinoing do have the any money to buy expensive part of repair not

I know there are there are a couple of options out there for just monolingual keycaps like pic related but for dual I think this is the only one there is originativeco.com/products/modern-beige?variant=18906335301

try that again in proper English

has anyone ever been as far as decided to do more like

lony shift button the breaks, have the any money buy repace expensive parts not. thanks youres please HELP

Clearly English is not your first language, what is your native tongue?
How did it break? was it the mechanism inside because you can just buy a single switch and replace it?

y mrhe no money tak the all button news.
what do to do when loney shift key.
fill key soft the work kyno -> fill key hard the work. woer buy the no expensive raeplace

please the shift HELP

So its a rubber dome keyboard. Why are you on the mechanical keyboard thread?
Anyway what exactly is damaged. Is it the rubber pad or the switch mechanism

I need to know what part of it is broken

the expnesive part of repair not break not functinoing do have the any not.
the shift HELP lony shift any key THANK youres

so if the shitf lony mrhe lony key button news? the no any replace any money not

w2c pepekey

man I wish this board had flags cause I can't understand a damn thing you are saying

please key lony HELP


What's wrong with the poker3? I'm happy with mine, thinking of getting another, black withMX clears.

Do you still have the rubber cap. If you take double sided tape you can carefully place it on the edges and put the key back together

Looking at the Filco Minila Air (Brown).

Is it good enough, or are there other small bluetooth keyboards to consider?

>no the lony ANALDicaory

there's always the HHKB pro BT

functoin do have the any the shift HELP lony
whoever the shift-key no money tak the all button news.

what do to do when loney shift key expensive raeplace not functinoing any money the expensive the part of not repair

Nope, sorry. I can't help you either.

you know what try going to thread
maybe just mabye you can find someone to help you


I doubt his native language is Japanese. He didn't reply with anything that made sense when asked in Japanese, nor dues the third Kanji (or probably Hanzi rather) near any resemblance to anything that I've seen before.

I'm guessing he's from some county that uses Chinese symbols that isn't Japan. So that leaves a fair bit open as to what his language could be.

I think his shift key is fucked and he wants to repair it using components from another key. Needless to say, this won't work if it's the membrane that's fucked.

Now someone try explaining that to him.

Just got new keys and put some o-rings on them. Really comfy and feels more natural than ergonomic keys.

Will be upgrading to a Pok3r soon, for now this cheapo Magicforce will do.

lol those keycaps are worth more then the keyboard itself

>able to loGin usinG the G key on my keyboard every time
>after about a minute the G stops workinG
>sometimes it's completely dead and sometimes it works with shift (like now)
>this tells me the switch is Good and its just some buG

what do?

what if you turn caps lock on can you still type G

how to I clean my keys? Not like all of them just wasd are kinda greasy. will just water and soap do?
Also what about mouse?

You can just pop the keycaps off and clean them with rubbing alcohol. As for your mouse I'm sure you can just get some wipes and clean the outside of it

yep, microfiber is a good idea if you have pad printed or ABS caps still. they'll get swirl marks and rubbed off legends.

soaking in water/denture tablets for really dirty dye-sub and doubleshot caps.

i just rub my keys really hard with like a paper napkin and or Kleenex

nope, only works with shift this time

that's weird so its not the G, but rather the combination of shift and g. Anyway try this out this diagnostic tool:

so i just used water used paper and qtips to get the water off but theres very little bit on the + area where the switch goes that i cant get off. Is it a problem if I just put them back to the keyboard now or should I let them dry?

more like memechanical keyboards lmao

give them about a week to dry or else you might fry the board

ur kidding right

water is a bitch. I dried my keycaps for a week and there was still water stuck in those tiny groves.

this proGram detects it every time.

my raGe just doubled

yeah well at least i got warrenty then lol
i aint waiting 1 week and just put them on

Water in the switch mech will just make it act like it's pressed. It's when it gets on the control circuitry of the PCB that your board is fucked.

>try a different keyboard
>same exact issue

so yeah this got here

it's now just a keyset display

okay now you are just trolling

Hey it's me, the guy who spilled an entire rum and coke into my keyboard like 10 days ago.

How long should I wait? She lies disassembled, waiting for my caress.

spoiler: don't really miss it at all, $10 logitech k120 is mostly fine and it doesn't fucking destroy my thumb to use the spacebar on it like the majestouch spacebar does. Seriously what the fuck filco

Also, the back of the circuitboard has a very faint amount of white residue. I guess i should rubbing alcohol that off. I used tap water because I live in a city with one of the most modern water filtration system and our water is supposed to have zero hardness.

promise i'm not

>company that can't make a mouse that lasts more than 6 months
>you paid probably $100+ for a keyboard from them

why do you guys buy these literal meme brands?

well, funny story in my case

>buy siberia v2 headset from walmart for $60
>it breaks a few weeks from end of warranty, Get an RMA
>replacement siberia v2 breaks a few weeks before end of warranty, apply for another RMA
>they send me their flaGship $200 headset
>it breaks in a few months
>apply for an rma, they Give me replacement value of the $200 headset in store credit
>Get this keyboard and another siberia V2

but this time its not steelseries' fault the loitech i just tried has the same issue

Ended up buying those, thanks for the link

then it's your meme keyboard drivers which are intercepting the logitech as well.

bizarre problem frankly, and i've been solving bizarre computer problems for over 20 years. I would say it could ONLY be drivers causing that.

I know that you guys told me that these would be expensive, but $150 seems way too much. If it was for around $90 I would have gone for it

That's GMK for you.

SP is also expensive but some of their sets use PBT instead of ABS

those are probably the prettiest keycaps i've ever seen, but $150? for keycaps?

delving into the realm of "cocksucker shit"

the 1976 keycap set went for almost $200, but damn does it look good

SP still doesn't do SA profile in PBT do they?

houston astros ass bullshit

my tada 68 came in today but it had blank keycaps but then i checked that there's options for keycaps and then i'm sad

Kind off
Over the past several months we have been developing the capability to mold blank SA keys in PBT and produce sublimated keysets. We have restricted our efforts to SA Row 3 only mainly due to the cost and time involved in offering a full sculptured sublimated keyset.


well at least you can now buy a set of nice dye-sub PBT keycaps

Neat. I guess call me when there's an ergodox SA PBT set.

Hopefully by the end of next year you can get a proper SA PBT set. You can already buy that SA PBT set but its all in row 3


Hey friends what is the smallest possible board I can get with F keys and arrow keys? Bonus if black switches thx

I wouldn't pay $5 for that, but it looks like nice build quality

Agh it's hard to decide between placebo keyboard and placebo headphones.

well if you get a programmable key board you can literally make it just arrow keys and and F keys. There are small %40 keyboards that can have F keys with function layer mapping. The planc comes to mind or you can get the minivan

well the loudness of your keyboard definitely isn't a placebo. If sound is an issue then get a silenced keyboard and use whatever leftovers you have for some headphones

None of this shit is placebo at all.

my "placebo" PC upgrade tier list

Holy fuck how did I ever live without this tier:
>144hz monitor
>mechanical keyboard
>good mouse

why did I buy this gimmick shit tier:

>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
>Form factor
60% or Tenkeyless
don't care
>Previous/current keyboards
poker3 with blues, das 4c with browns
looking for a compromise between brown and blue

>why did I buy this gimmick shit tier:

how are nice headphones a gimmick? would you really compare an o2/odac + dt880 setup to your apple earbuds?

Headphones in general are a gimmick, just get a nice sound system.

What are those keycaps

Pick one that you like

Oh snap, thanks. Feel like a dummy.

Looking for some cheap chink ~60% MKB, I've found these 5 options, which one should I choose and why?
Noppoo Choc Mini (aliexpress.com/item/Noppoo-choc-mini84-POM-black-color-in-stock-black-blue-brown-red-cherry-mx-switch-shaft/788345858.html)
Plum84 (aliexpress.com/item/Plum84-electrostatic-capacitive-mechanical-keyboard-topre-clone-compact-gaming-keyboard-PBT-keycap-detachable-cable-84-mini/32598836635.html)
Magicforce 84 (aliexpress.com/item/Magicforce-Smart-68-Keys-Backlit-Antighosting-USB-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Alu-Alloy-Cherry-MX-Blue-Black/32633127902.html)
IKBC POKER MINI (aliexpress.com/item/IKBC-POKERII-60-compact-poker2-mini-mechanical-keyboard-poker-II-cherry-mx-switch-gaming-keyboard-PBT/2043845811.html)
Never bought one before, so I don't know what to do.

>magicforce because they're cheap as fuck

I hate headphones the wires always get in my way, just my preference, but that user is wrong, headphones aren't a gimmick

Oh, missed the IKBC C87 TKL (aliexpress.com/item/IKBC-C87-TKL-mechanical-keyboard-tenkeyless-C-87-PBT-keycap-cherry-mx-switch-brown-blue-87/32580388291.html)

g20 pimpmykeyboard.com/g20-sublimated-sets/

None of these are exactly cheap for chinkshit

maybe not for some people, but they're definitely not right for me

>uncomfortable for long periods of time
>some models have outside soundproofing
>pesky wires
>inconvenient to get out

I never use mine, I'd much rather just put it over the sound system and not be tethered down.

user, I have bad news...

They're the ones that doesn't cost more than the KB to ship to my country.

I know I said I hate headphones too, which is why I use speakers instead, but calling them a gimmick is just retarded

I still regret buying them.

I know, but they aren't in SA profile

what country? When you said cheap I imagined 30-40 bucks, but not 100

Brazil, ~$120 is OK for me (ship included). That's why I were looking for the chinese ones.

>want new thicc pbt/pom keycap sets
>mfw an alps man

Can't you get non chink ones for that price also?

I say a you tube video of some guy cutting off the the cherry mount at the bottom of his keycaps then gluing alps ones on. You could try that and if it doesn't work you can always post it in a tech gore thread

I would like to, but shops' shipping tax like mechanicalkeyboards are usually expensive as fuck (like 60 ~ 90 bucks or so).
>tfw living a shitty country
>tfw can't get gud stuff without being raped by shipping taxes

I was ready to buy this, but Hyperfuse stole my money.

At least I wont have to wait 5 for shipping.

Noppoo and Poker are both fairly well regarded. Not sure about the others

Why dont you buy a Ducky One at PlayerID? Its R$540, if you are willing to pay $120 + customs tax it wont be that different.

Anyway, between those I would choose C87, or maybe GANSS GS87. Sometimes buying at mechanicalkeyboards.com and sending it to an US Proxy (shipito) turns way cheaper than asking them to ship directly. With a bonus that you can fill the customs declaration yourself and declare any value you want.

anyone ever buy one of these pbt topre spacebars?


the massdrop ended so now my only option is aliexpress. do they fit well on the hhkb?

Is the MK MK2016 a good keyboard?

Any good recommendations on >wireless mechanical keyboards? Looking to cut all the wires from my desk.

Varmilo VB87M, Filco Majestouch Convertible.

bt hhkb

for that price you could get 3 full chink sets and get a similar color scheme

that would be an easy fuck up

a lot
>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
Clear, Buckling Spring (Tactile something)
Nordic ISO
>Form factor
60% or Tenkeyless
don't care
>Previous/current keyboards
Ozone Gaymer StrikeBattle Brown MX TKL,
SteelSeries 6GV2 (Black MX)
Razer BlackWidow (fell for the meme)

Had this blackwidow for about 5 years now.
Looking to either get a new keyboard or get new keycaps.

oh my light


Can anyone suggest me how to silence a mechanical keyboard?
>inb4 Are you autistic?

O Ring you can buy off line personally i dont know why you wouldn't be able to find cheaper ones at home depot.


Did you do the carbon fiber modding yourself?

>need a keyboard tomorrow
>only has to last me for three months but I'll be doing a lot of typing

Any UK anons have any ideas for a semi decent quality keyboard with next day delivery? All I see is massive gaymer gear with loads of keys I won't use and ugly lights all over the place.


Should I buy a refurbished K65 or is it guaranteed to be fucked in some way


So, after about 12 hours of troubleshooting by myself and with the help of both steelseries and microsoft currysupport, I've isolated the problem.

It was an ever so slightly botched install of Geforce Experience that gave a tell because the key would stop working right when geforce experience pinged its update server on startup.

Who woulda thunk.


If you're looking to buy, just get one that has dampened switches.

If you already have a tactile board then apply o-rings to soften the clack when bottoming out.

If you have a board and it's fully clicky it depends. Alps clicky switches can be made non-clicky by removing the click leaf from each switch. With clicky MX switches and buckling springs there's basically nothing you can do.

Love Matias switches and their board layout (esp. that tab on the numpad), but hate their case design. What do?


That will be horrifically inconsistent. Doubly so over time.

>mfw even after shipping and taxes it's €50 cheaper to order the keyboard I've been looking at from the UK because brexit fucked the pound


75% is the god tier layout for actual "hacking"

What are those keycaps?

Either build a board with that layout and matias switches, or just get a matias board and build your own case.

Carbon fiber vynil wrap costs a couple of dollars for amount enough to cover a keyboard several times, and it's easy to do yourself. Even if you fail first time, you can just try again.

mx clear master race reporting in

Me and power tools would probably lead to lost fingers, though.

update on the pc-98 keyboard, they sent me a couple of photos before shipping it, gonna receive it around early october presumably

You don't really a need a whole lot of power tools depending on what you go for. The easiest and safest (and not that interesting) option would be to make a layered design with some CAD software and then have it laser cut.

Just got myself Aula F2012 with leds for about 35$. Solid build quality, just had to remove the rubber mat that was between keycaps and switches. It made the keys feel really sticky and unresponsive.

tfw I broke my ducky shine4 with mx clears by spilling beer and coke multiple times on the keyboard. Tried even washing it in the shower but didnt work.

DSA Eve comes in one profile, so you could move around the keys wherever you want.

i spilled a spoonful worth of liquor on my Orion Spark and now it's fucked.

what get

Very thank you user.

Does anyone here know were you can buy cheaper tkl pcb's? I want to build a keyboard but all the PCB's are hella expensive (like $80AUD). Really want to find one closer to $50AUD

What's a AUD?

kangaroo dollar

Point is, asking something on international resource don't expect people to understand anything but USD and EUR.

Get a CNC machine and mill your own. Or just wait for a few months until I have a bigger one set up.

>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
Blue, I do like clear though.
Willing to try out tropes (45-55g).
>Form factor
rather not
>Previous/current keyboards
wasd v2

Aula F2012, only about 35$ mayng

EnjoyPBT Cyrillic alphas and GMK bluegaloo mods.

>don't expect children with almost no knowledge of the outside world to understand anything but USD and EUR.

or burgers

Did you get one with real alps and doubleshots?

Soooweeet! Greens?

pretty sure they're blue nec ovals, but really no idea

>EnjoyPBT Cyrillic
Damn it. Those are the only cyrillic keycaps on the market, aren't they?


I'm hating mx blue, some keys feel heavier to press than others and it's really inconsistent. Didn't have this problem with browns and reds.

Is it supposed to be like this?

yeah, they suck

Shouldn't be inconsistent. Try getting the board RMA'd?

Is this just opinionless hivemind spouting? Why wouldn't clears feel that way if they're just heavier browns?

clears are molded differently

some kb manufacturers are pickier than cherry's qc but it's unavoidable to have some inconsistency

>Why wouldn't clears feel that way if they're just heavier browns?
Because they're not.

can you explain please? i have had browns for a while but i want something heavier

Just look at the stem m8, the clears clearly have a larger bump.

Super autist question but what switches are closest to the artificially produced keyboard sound you hear in movies, shows, anime, etc.?

There's that distinct "movie keyboard" sound.

>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
>Form factor
TKL or 60%
Either or
>Previous/current keyboards]
Filco Majestouch 2

Probably buckling springs.

They say that browns are like reds with a piece of sand in the track, whereas clears would have a small pebble

You could easily get a pok3r and be satisfied with that budget

Take a look at

Ive heard some nightmare stories about the Pok3r having bad qc?

200$ max
>Location (continent at least)
USA lower 48
>Preferred switch type
Red or Black -- Linear switch pref
>Form factor
Backlighting only on keys where it's useful (capslock,num lock etc)
>Previous/current keyboards
Blackwidow Ultimate - My first mech, gross
Corsair K70 RGB - Didn't like, key chatter after a year.
Current: - KUL Es-87 I like it a lot, but I don't love it.


just pick the switch you want from the menu and pick one that you like.


Which keyboard is this?

Guess what just came in the mail



let me guess its a tada68


then get a dehumidifier

no plastic blemishes makes me happy

why did you get blank keycaps?

>vomit-inducing windows keys
>not all blanks/letter blanks, instead top row sticks out to the left and its retarded and ruins it

its a nice keyboard mate but HOW could you fuck up so bad

because memes

i did not really expect the windows key to be THAT one, did really expect win98 key or something blank

mainly because i touch type and because i like when people say "whats the point?"

Thanks. I really like the colourscheme, looks like you bought the keycaps separately?
Say I want a keyboard in this style or pic related, what are my options? Also where can I buy those keycaps? Amazon, Massdrop?

Requesting advice now I'm at it:
€ 150
>Location (continent at least)
>Preferred switch type
Never had a mechanical keyboard, but I guess between linear and tactile, silent and slight feedback. Clear/Black/Red?
Both, used to ISO
>Form factor
Not smaller than tenkeyless or barely
Don't care
>Previous/current keyboards
none, a cheap € 20 cherry

>never had a mechanical
> € 20 Cherry

They also sell rubberdome keyboards
I have the Cherry KB-0556

wtf did not know this, did not even know cherry made keyboards, i tought they just made the switch

They have been making keyboards for at least 20 years, I remember back then the keyboards for the "turbo" button pc everyone already said to buy cherry ones because they were the best. I just kept buying them (cheap) but I want to get something nicer this time.

Their switches were primarily for their own keyboards initially. They've always been a major office and point of sale equipment manufacturer.

what board is that? It looks nice

I've been looking into the TADA68. What exactly are the MOD switches? I can't seem to find anything online about them.


>MOD switches
user what?
It comes with gaterons?


It's either Gaterons or those. That's the only page with any info on them. I can't seem to find anybody else talking about them.

Does anyone know which keyboard this is? (and to the owner of this picture, I love your setup)

I thought it was the Vortex Pok3r but I'm not too sure.

KBT Pure Pro with miameme keycaps. The keyboard's fine, but the keycaps are the epitome of meme cancer.

Really? I bought a PBT miami keyset, however I haven't even bought the damn keyboard yet.

Thanks though.

>Is this just opinionless hivemind spouting?
No, it's an opinion I formed after having used browns and various other switches.
Browns suck.


I need to get a white pok3r with mx blues but i cant find them anywhere. Is there another 60% keyboard thats solid aluminum and not black?

>Also where can I buy those keycaps? Amazon, Massdrop?
Nowhere now unless you find someone selling a set
GMK royal alpha on mass drop
I seriously doubt they will make it again.

Just bought this thing for 64 eurobucks.

Did I do good?

There has to be a service where you can customise keys and have them printed for you?
It's just a different colour, not shapes.
Is anyone offering this, at a reasonable price?

Im a keyboard newfag

I'm looking for my first premium mech keyboard and I like the looks of the K70 Lux RGB

My keyboard must have the num pad included....no tenkeyless boards.

>TL;dr is K70 Lux RGB a good keyboard, or are there better keyboards for the same or lesser price?


Chiclet keyboards are better and not autism tho..

well, not good keycaps

WASD does it

You have 3 lifetimes to convince me not to buy a topre realforce 87u 55g keyboard


Neat. But that's close to $200, way too expensive for a keyboard imo. Shame


then buy a cheap piece of garbage off aliexpress and replace the caps

not that WASD is anything close to quality though

I've had more than one Model M
I had to give up my Sun Type 5 (not mech, just my favorite touch)
I had a razor that broke...
Now I'm using a topre, and it's great. I'd recommend it.

>is K70 Lux RGB a good keyboard

>or are there better keyboards for the same or lesser price?
Yes. Take a look at Ducky keyboards if you want fancy pants LEDs


The HHKB exists.

>no arrow keys
no thanks

I use a keyboard all day for work and then some for my own purposes. I spent over 1k for a nice chair, got a nice big display... why wouldn't I invest in the best tools as a professional?

Enjoy your RSI

wow look at this scrub

new thread

It has arrow keys tho

yeah, under a function layer. the lite version uses membrane shit

I have all white keys without inscription, blue cherry mx, 87 tkl from WASD. If I remember correctly it was around 110-120 dollars.
pretty neat so far. cant complain. 2 years old

wtf is this

if thats the rubberdome kill yourself

>quintuple size enter key
>calling someone else a scrub

better make the enter key 4 square meters you might not be able to press enter :)))

Why not? Cherry brown switches, backlit, PS2, known brand.

Seems like a hell of a deal for €64

jokes on you i'm actually american

what are some good dye sublimated key cap sets?

Enjoy your tendonitis down the road

I think I'm gonna try building a keyboard from scratch. I'm good with electronics and can design and manufacture a board, can even program the controller (doing all that is the main reason I want ot build it).
Switches and keycaps I can order.
The main problem is the chasis. I can't do carpentry, casting or metalworks. Can I buy or order a full body somewhere? I want ISO 104k and at least some choices of materials, colors, etc...

Are those actual notes? They look atrocious.