/pcbg/ PC Building General

Fine
What should I upgrade to let me play new games on high setting with decent (45+) fps
Without building a whole new pc

Monitor is a priority. Your 980Ti is extremely handicapped by that APU in your current build though. Should have bought a reasonable graphics card for that build like a 960

Seems like you can throw money around like a trust fund baby, so a 1440p 144Hz Gsync or ultrawide shouldn't be a problem for you

m8, you could get a new APU for that socket and a 4GB 470 but honestly I'd wait (new CPUs and graphics cards coming soon) and save your money. Accumulate $400 and sell your old shit piece wise for $250 and you'll be able to buy parts for a decent PC. (New mobo, CPU, RAM, SSD, and graphics card.)

>seems like you can throw money like a trust fund baby
Nah, I'm a community college kid who has like 2.5 grand saved in the bank. But yeah, I'm looking an Asus or LG 1440p monitor.

There's not much that fits in my Mobo cpu slot desu
And I don't feel like getting a whole new PC after only 2 years
Will a new gpu make much of a difference?

Why can't we get shit like this?
abee.co.jp/Product/CASE/AS_Enclosure/RS07_color/index.html

Yeah it will. But a four bulldozerish core APU is going to be a bottleneck. Probably a GTX1050 is all I'd buy, it'll be coming out in a few weeks. Check benchmarks and make your own decision then

pcpartpicker.com/list/WF6TYr
It is for every day use and 1080p 60hz gaming. Any help to lower the price without lowering performance would be appreciated. This is my first pc build, I'm currently using pic related.

Looks good, but a 250GB SSD as your boot/game install drive will make your experience so much better

You can get a cheaper PSU, 450W is plenty if you never plan to mGPU

I like the n200 but that's a fucking stupid question.

Any amd cards in the 150-250 range that won't bottleneck??

The last one of these threads didn't even last a day.

I did finally decide on the Sapphire NITRO+ rx480 8GB GPU over the PNY gtx 1060 6GB.

>Gaming builds
Why is logical increments not good enough for those?
Aside from the emulator ones I think the site directly addresses all those other gaming tiers.

The things I would expand upon would be monitors or displays, as that is generally lacking,
and the potential of buying used parts with advice regarding previous generations of hardware in context to today and current hardware.
Discussion on the various types of VR would also be handy, as I imagine not all VRs are created equal.

I agree with you on the server stuff, as I know little about it myself as well.

For editing, don't you literally just get a better, multi-core CPU and more RAM? Unless you are going full workstation, the average youtube-tier editor would probably still get a normal GPU.
I think people still mine various crypto-currencies, but I could not tell you which ones.
Certainly not as much with bitcoin anymore.

Gotta say though there is really no point to reinventing the wheel. If someone has semi-decent advice, why not just build upon it in the pastebin instead of trying to recreate guides from the ground up?

pcpartpicker.com/list/yn6ZJV
Tell me what to buy and what not to buy

I spent weeks researching and deciding on what I wanted. Then I go to logical increments for the first time and poof there's my build right there, already made up for me

>when your brother takes your 32gb USB3 flash drive and your brother in law takes your SD card reader so youre left with no install device for windows on your new PC except for a PSP with a 4GB memory stick set to mass storage mode

>Why is logical increments not good enough for gaming builds?
Too many tiers and if bang for buck isn't indicated. Notice they still recommend a 960 in a build right below a build with a 1060. That's a fucking stupid purchase decision.

Also they recommend unnecessary components like Z170 mobos for locked processors, CPU coolers for locked processors when stock is fine, etc.

We should post builds for specific uses, like new AAA 1080p 60Hz gaming or an HTPC, not pricing tiers with nebulous capabilities. Not saying anything is really wrong with logical increments.. it has really helped me.

>If someone has semi-decent advice, why not just build upon it in the pastebin instead of trying to recreate guides from the ground up?
Agreed, there are lots of builds on pcpartpicker, but unfortunately I can't figure out how to search them.

best budget mid tower cases around the £60 mark?

>Notice they still recommend a 960 in a build right below a build with a 1060
Until the 1050 comes out, the GTX 960 is still a decent buy at the price. An RX 460 doesn't even cut it with the 950 anyway, so it's a hard sell compared to a cut-price 960.

LI is mainly good for the details on how each major game perform and why they do, their tier system is fucking retarded to start with when prices fluctuate daily.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/zyQWtJ

Anything I should change?
Already have a 1060.

>PSP thick

Hnnngggg

Yeah I know the graphics card performance tiers, but why would you spend 80% of the money for 60% of the performance when you're still below PS4Pro specs and could be above it for another 40burgers? It's just stupid

Looks good, but get a lower wattage PSU and a 250GB SSD

>It's just stupid
People are stupid. I made a healthy profit from stupid, underinformed gaymer types and their rich parents by making nonsensical builds that were time-consuming to build and set-up.

>I made a healthy profit from stupid
Affiliate links?

Nah, I got paid by the hour for consulting and labor. I preyed on rich Jewish families and their spoiled brats. You'd be surprised the amount of money they would blow when their sons throw a Category 5 tantrum because their friend has a Alienware laptop.

If he can't find a lower wattage PSU for at least $40 cheaper, what he has is fine

I mean, he can, the seasanic mk2 520w is a good modular PSU and cheap, but it's just stupid how so many people scream to drop the PSU by 200 watts when you can rarely find a quality low wattage one for over $20 savings from what people already chose.
Like if you're trying to save $20 there's a lot better places to do it than the PSU

First time build and I know nothing except what I could learn through research, so any advice you guys have would be a huge help.

Does anything about this stand out as mismatched? Misguided? Glaringly flawed?

> I do not plan to overclock at all.
> I chose an oversized case because desk space is not a constraint for me, so if my parts get bigger later on, the large case should still be compatible.
> I have no idea how to double-check whether the GPU is compatible with the mobo, so if that's easy for you to clarify, I would appreciate the guidance.
> I have no idea about cables in general; will all the cables I need be included with the parts?

Any help/advice would go a long way, thank you.

...

3dpd faggot twink. Go choke on your RGB butt plug powered by Corsair RGB Technology©.

>have no idea how to double-check whether the GPU is compatible with the mobo, so if that's easy for you to clarify, I would appreciate the guidance
All GPUs and all motherboards are compatible. Some motherboards have quirks that might prevent certain headers of ports from being accessed if a longer GPU is installed, but all of them should be plug-and-play. Just a note, some motherboards may have a 4-pin MOLEX connector on it, those are meant to provide additional power through the PCIe lanes in the event that your GPU uses more power than expected.
> I have no idea about cables in general; will all the cables I need be included with the parts?
Mostly with the PSU, yes. All the power cables will be provided with any PSU. SATA cables? Your mobo might come with two or more, but that depends on the manufacturer. Same thing with an SLI bridge (mostly for X99/Z97/Z170 boards). Front I/O headers are built into the case, so their wires are also built into the case.

That is a girl tho

Ok, so I may need a SATA cable to hook up the HDD?

I'm just doing an HDD to save on cost and maybe I'll add SSD later.

Other than that, RAM plugs to mobo directly; PSU might have cords included; and CPU plugs directly too, so if I figure out the SATA situation I'll be ready to go ahead?

If you are buying a new mobo, it will have SATA cables. You can check the contents of the mobo on some stores.

>I may need a SATA cable to hook up the HDD?
Your board will include one (provided you bought one new), but it's always a good idea to buy a quality SATA cable, since a bad cable could potentially corrupt your hard drive. The one that came with my ASRock N3700 DC board was bad out of the box and refused to work at all.

no its not.. can you not tell the difference?

He can easily pay half or 2/3, not sure about moosebux

Grab a 250GB SSD too, you'll love it. If you really can't afford that, get a 120GB

Ok cool, thanks a million. That kind of info just doesn't really get addressed no matter how many reviews/articles I read.

Does the build look okay to you? Or maybe is it too hard to tell from just the parts list?

Now that it's confirmed that AMD has nothing to show until 2017, I'm thinking of finally updating my ancient desktop.
What's the best 3rd party for the rx480?
What's the meme CPU these days?

>What's the best 3rd party for the rx480?
Sapphire. PowerColor and XFX because I feel bad for the underdogs. Avoid the ones that pander to both GPU makers, they often recycle their cooler designs and that leads to less than optimal thermal performance, even though their PCB layout and power phase designs are superior.

I heard specifically that sapphire fucked up with the rx 480 this time. Any truth to that?

>sapphire fucked up with the rx 480 this time
You're gonna have to cite articles or I'm calling it a shilly night

Has anyone consulted Phanteks about getting individual part replacements? Nothing's damaged, but I want to do a bit of painting and I would like a backup in case I fuck up.

>I would like a backup in case I fuck up
You can buy parts from them, but nothing like chassis parts or body panels. You have to RMA the whole case together if something is wrong with your case, but if you fucked it up during modding, you are completely on your own.

If my goal is a cheap fanless small server for hosting git, file hosting, etc for LAN what should i build?

I'm looking to build a pc around $600 with $700 being the max. I plan to use it for light gaming, games like overwatch or programs like microsoft flight sim x on low settings minimum but medium or high is more preferred. I plan to use it for web browsing, typing documents, and other similar things . And I plan to have them open at once so 8gb of ram is a minimum. An SSD for my os and 1TB HDD is also a must.

can be had for $310 after tax if you use discover card [-10 promotion + 5% casback ($15)]
better performance for ~$30 more

I though the house fire issue was fixed in a week. I haven't been paying attention to red team vs. green team.

In this country they don't go for less than $600, all promotions included, before tax and shipping. Meanwhile the rx 480 is ~$350 or less for the 8GB version, ~290 for the 4GB version.

>cheap fanless small server for hosting git, file hosting, etc for LAN what should i build?
How important is your data? Do you have off-site back-ups just in case?
A Celeron N3060 motherboard is cheap (the board+soldered CPU usually runs you about $40-50), power-efficient, and can even act as a media server thanks to its integrated graphics.

If you don't have constant back-ups and want to use it as a constant back-up, then you need ECC capability. Look for a Atom C2550/2558 or C2358 motherboard. The 8 at the end means that the chip is part of the Rangeley family, which sacrifices TurboBoost for a dedicated AES engine that speeds up encryption. The C2550 has TurboBoost, but the AES feature is disabled (doesn't mean that it can't decrypt/encrypt AES keys, it just takes longer).

An ECC socketed motherboard and a Celeron might be the same price and run faster, but it will use much more power at idle.

What about doing a LGA 2011-v2 build?

This is for video, 3D motion graphics, and gaymen. Let me know what you think. A little over budget. Anywhere I could cut corners?

pcpartpicker.com/list/Xn7kJV

depending on what is meant by "for video" you may not need so much RAM

Which one of these should i pick to power a i3 sandy and a gtx 750ti?

>games like overwatch or programs like microsoft flight sim x
Core i3, either a 6100 or a 6300.
H110 mATX motherboard. ASUS is a good manufacturer for this price range, as is Gigabyte and (surprisingly) ASRock. MSI is dodgy recently, ECS is hard to get warranty services out of, and Biostar is meh but functional.
No cooler needed, the stock Intel cooler will do you fine.
A single stick of 8GB DDR4-2133MHz RAM will probably do you fine and be cheaper than two pairs of 4GB, which will waste both of your DIMM slots.
120 or 240GB SSDs are good, TLCs will suit your need so don't fret about their weaker write performance over time. Toshiba P300, HGST Deskstar 7K1000 1TB hard drives, but Seagate Barracudas have upped their reliability during the past few years.
Buy a cheap mATX case (4-5 PCI slots) with at least one USB 3.0 front header. The cheapest Silverstone or Fractal Design cases will do, as will the Cooler Master N200. Rosewill is hit or miss, as is Thermaltake. DIY-PC is cancer, avoid at all costs.
A decent 400-550W 80+ Bronze PSU is a must, with at least two 6-pin PCIe connectors and preferably a semi-modular format.

As for graphics card, you might only be able to afford a RX 470 4GB or a GTX 1060 3GB at best.

>How important is your data?
Semi, I would pray to the gods

>Do you have off-site back-ups just in case?
No

> use it as a constant back-up
I don't plan to do constant backups, just sharing files between computers or hosting shared git for myself and friends

sorry didn't realize you weren't in the US

Then get the Celeron N3060 motherboard and consider buying an external drive to back up your data once a week.
My C2750 motherboard from my file server cost me $350 alone. Your entire build will cost that much.

pcpartpicker.com/list/2R9qRG
I think this is good.

Doesn't matter, they're both house fires.

neat, thanks

>Overpriced ricer motherboard that's whiter than a D&D session
>Overpriced LED ricer RAM
>Cheapo OS drive
Sure got your priorities straight.

There's nothing wrong with cheapo SSDs
and 128Gb isn't gonna be filled up by an OS

OCZ is fine for a boot drive.

Any good and cheap mini psu?

Is quadro a meme or is it actually good? Everybody keeps telling me different things.
And no, I'm not a hobbyist modeler, I need this for actual work.

>I need this for actual work
Quadro because of its superior support channel for programs that your income depends on. GeForce and Radeon cards lack compatibility and support for many professional modeling, rendering, and calculation programs. The difference is all down to the firmware, not the actual GPU itself.

Would a Raspberry Pi 3 be any good for a server?

Whatever 80+ at least bronze 350W thing you can find from an at least somewhat reputable brand, really.

Bought a silent base 600 case for my upgrade. Would it be worth it to add another intake fan to increase air pressure and keep dust from infiltrating? Default fan setup on the case is one 140mm intake at the front and one 120mm exhaust in the rear, maybe that's enough already?

Larger fans sacrifice pressure for airflow. If you set the front fan faster than the back fan in your BIOS, then you shouldn't have a problem, but one more fan wouldn't hurt with such restrictive airflow. Do a test with tissue paper or something near an open vent to test for positive pressure.

Not that user, but I'm also building on a strict 500-600 usd budget, and how are those graphics card you mentioned? What are the best low-end bang for buck cards? I'm just doing 1080p, and I don't expect ultra settings or anything, I just something decent and cheap.

Does anyone know what used CPU I could get for about 100 without bottlenecking a Rx 480 4gb

What socket do you have? or are you planning to buy a mobo too?

I don't have a mobo yet so the CPU can be any make

i3-6100
ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_ItemCondition=3000&_nkw=i3 6100&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2045573.m1684

who here overkill and no time to even use it

How good is a 2, will it be able to sustain 60fps at 1080p?

I mean 2 core

No, some games won't even run with only two threads. i3 is 2 core 4 thread, pretty much the minimum for anything modern

Sorry, I may have misunderstood your poorly worded question, but an i3-6100 will be able to drive 60FPS.

I thought you were asking about a Pentium G4400 or something cheaper than an i3

Sup.

I almost went for the 6850k but it was $100 more for a laughable boost in performance. But I do plan on getting another 1080 and sli eventually, then I'll have a similar score, just marginally lower. Because you know, that CPU is marginally better. :^)

pcpartpicker.com/user/b3rn13/saved/FYD3CJ
pcpartpicker.com/user/b3rn13/saved/RqZLkL

Is it worth going for the more expensive options (3000mhz ram, 8gb rx 480, z170 motherboard), or should I put that towards a monitor?

To clarify

I want this to last 3-4 years of 1080p gaming, Forza H3, GTAV, NMS, overwatch, LoL.

It's a pretty good CPU. It overclocks well and runs really cool (with liquid cooling). I never go above 35C when gaming and that's with a mild overclock to 4GHz. What resolution are you running? I have the 34 inch Asus ultra wide 3440x1440.

Didn't upgrade my meme monitor yet, ultrawide as well but 2560x1080. One thing at a time.

Also just 23", LG. Very cinematic.

I'm liking ultra wide a lot. Just got it a month ago. I was using an 18 inch 1080p screen before this.

I still don't know if I should pull the trigger on this.

pcpartpicker.com/list/DVbQPs

Also still open to criticism

If it says that you're not fitting a D15 in there, you should listen.

Not sure what you need 16GB of RAM for.

You don't need full-modular.

Noctuas are overpriced as fuck. Replace those with Fractal Venturis or Cougar Vortexes, but I would wait and see if you actually need those case fans.

Others have fitted the D15 in there. overclock.net/t/1541863/new-build-so-far-z97-270x-350d-nhd15

I need the ram because I like not having to close my browser to play intensive games.

I'd rather not buy a PSU that's not fully modular.

Eh noctuas are expensive but I couldn't really find any other semi silent alternative that is just as good.

What motherboard...

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/qFJCd6

>1.6k
>not even i7
Get rid of the Noctua fans and the fully modular PSU. That will save you A LOT money.

If you can find me a tier 1 PSU that's just as good for cheaper then go ahead.

Also, I'm willing to listen to an alternative to the noctua fans. I'm going for an OC build that's also relatively silent.

It really is
/pcag/ - PC Assembly General

>Maximum-Noctua
Just... Look man, I can't say anything bad about the brand, but those four fans and that cpu cooler costs a lot. You might as well ditch those and get a corsair h100 or something, and I bet it's far cheaper. Since it's a K, you're going to overclock anyways so you might as well go liquid cooling right?

...

You don't necessarily get much better temps with AIOs and they're much louder due to the pump.

Please show me the benchmark where those fans are comparable to the Noctua.

>look mom, i'm shitposting again

>case and cooler incompatible
>almost 200$ for fans and cooler

Should I get a 1060 6 gb or a 480 8 gb? Are the 480s really house fires?

Will an i3 6100 bottleneck these in modern games?

Thanks very much in advance.

They aren't incompatible, see

>Should I get a 1060 6 gb or a 480 8 gb? Are the 480s really house fires?
The choice is yours.
>Will an i3 6100 bottleneck these in modern games?
CPU heavy games, yes. CPU ligt games, no.

How do I assess how well does the monitor represents colors(for sensitive work like photo editing) apart from reading hundreds of reviews?

pcpartpicker.com/list/M9Jz6X
480 8g w backplate
6600 w/ tower cooler
512gb m2 drive

What graphics card should I buy for 1080p gaming(mostly)?
Should I go for rx480 8GB, gtx10606GB or even 4GB 480 is enough? Keep in mind that I'll have an i5 cpu

Listen, you asked, heres your answer.
I can go with the PSU if you really need a fully modular one and maybe the NH15 as well, but over 80$ for case fans is stupid. Unless you dont care about money, but if this is the case, why no i7?
Your build makes no sense.

God that is garbage..

Cpu: AMD Athlon X4 760k
Gpu: Sapphire Radeon r7 260x
Motherboard: MSI A78M-E35
8gigs RAM

What gpu should I get that will.make a difference while gaming and won't bottleneck too much

get a 4gb rx480

I'm about to make my first build. Can you Cred Forumsuys help me here, just to make sure I'm not making any terrible mistakes?

pcpartpicker.com/user/AndyC/saved/#view=twDV3C

> inb4 amd/intel/nvidia war

What other options do I have if I want a beastly OC along with a silent system?

Whats your budget anyways?

I have a similar setup with a 1060 planned, why is it bad?

get a 470 and a cooler to clock the dick off the 760.

I don't have one necessarily. I just don't want to overspend. For example, I chose the i5 since its practically identical in gaming performance to the i7 for cheaper.

Is my GPU too hot? This is with Overwatch running in the background after being on for several hours. I haven't messed around with the MSI fan curve but uh, I guess I could. Or this totally fine?

Sorry it's my first build.

It's high but nothing to worry about. GPU temps are fine untill 80 celsius.

It's cool for an AMD card

Bump with pic

stay away from this AMD processor
get an i5 instead

The problem with Logical Increments is that they ONLY show gaming performance in their build.

Me for instance, I want to game and stream and do all sorts of other shit on the PC so I need it all a bit more detailed.

Many will go up to 95C, and that's totally fine too. They're made to handle those kinds of temperatures. They'll protect themselves (throttling, shutting down) before they get too hot.

Are 4 memory sticks really cheaper than 2? Also I'd avoid reference or blower cards.

Yeah but after 80 they usually start underclocking.the card.

Have you had very bad experience with this?
It's just so much cheaper, dammit!

I heard that getting 4x4GB is better than 2x8GB. Maybe that's not correct.
What are reference and blower cards? Yes, I'm out of my territory here...

>why is it bad?
>tray CPU
>useless cooler
>Plextor
>Win10 OEM

stop

Is gaming the only thing you do?

I'm not in a hurry to buy a new PC, and I rather wait for a price drop of some of the components.

That being said, with a 1440p monitor should I go for a 1070 or will a 1060/480 suffice for high/ultra at 60fps for most modern games?

Yep pretty much

CPU heavy will profit from an i7, but in your case.. get an i5 and don't bother with OC that much for now. An i5 + 1080 is more than enough for everything.

Why not OC though? Might as well get a non K one then.

Upgrade to x4 880k. Pick up a rx 470 4 gig to go with it. Over clock the hell out of both. It'll cost $300 total, all works with your current computer, probably good for another 2 years. This setup will play any new game at 60fps on high-very high settings.

I'm not saying you shouldn't OC, what i'm saying is that if you don't want to overpay and gaming is essesentially all you do, then focus on an overall better build now, and maybe OC later.
The i5-6600K is just fine. You probably won't need the Noctua brick, also, personally i'd get a semi-modular 80+ since they are cheaper and drop the case fans for now.
If you want, get cheaper ones now, or get your Noctuas later when you OC your machine, but paying about 1550$ for an i5 build is not the smartest thing to do.

I fail to see your logic though. An i5 performs just as well as an i7, and thus OCing it would bring the same benefits as it would an i7, so what I save on the CPU I gain in better cooling and overall system silence. I don't see how that's not a win win.

Should I get an SDD? This is with Overwatch and a bunch of other shit open.

Supposedly the disk is getting maxed but I don't notice any performance problems.

An i7 performs a lot better on CPU heavy games, idk which games you play.
Point is, if you have to chose between an i7 + good cooler or i5 + 190$ Noctua, take the i7 option.
With a good, cheaper cooler you can OC it as well and still have good temps. If you absolutely need those case fans, just get cheaper silent ones.
If you want to overpay and get an i5 build for about 1600$, do it, it's your money to throw away.

forgot pic

I'd really like to see some benchmarks on that because the ones I've found they're basically identical.

trustedreviews.com/intel-skylake-review-core-i7-6700k-and-core-i5-6600k-review-gaming-benchmarks-performance-page-4

kitguru.net/components/cpu/luke-hill/intel-core-i7-6700k-i5-6600k-skylake-cpu-review/8/

No reason not to have an SSD in 2016.

For most games they are, but CPU heavy games, like Total War or Signularity (or whatever, i don't play AAA games) will profit from it.
So if you play those game a lot, you might wanna get an i7, otherwise the i5 is more than enough. If you don't want to overpay, get the i5-6600K and you'll be fine.

Can you show some benchmarks?

Literally first google page, scroll down, there's an interactive benchmark. Also, you do realize that games like Total War will naturally rape your CPU rather than your GPU?
pcgameshardware.de/Core-i7-6700K-CPU-260905/Tests/Skylake-Test-Core-i7-6700K-i5-6600K-1166741/

X4 880k will fit in the mail A78M-A35 right?

I pulled out my CPU and dropped with the heatsink attached nows some of the pins are dead, Its an 8 year old CPU though. I have a gigabyte motherboard, ga ma785g. whats a decent price CPU I could replace with.

980ti won't be underpowered for 1080/60 about a year from now for most games.

Hell you can make the case for that today. 1070 will be the same way.

will be** i mean.

Yeah but the main difference between the i5 and i7 is the hyperthreads, which aren't really used pretty much at all in gaming. Also they don't compare them clock to clock.

Some CPU heavy games do. Again, it depends on what you play and how much you're willing to pay.

DX12 might actually take advantage of HT.

>fans
>show me the benchmark
Fuck dude, they're fans. I bet you won't even notice the noise, I bet you weren't even considering the idea that your computer fans would make noise until somebody brought it up online
Noctuas are a meme

hormone treatments?

Guess what boys. I found some old gift cards. So I can justify getting a SSD even though it's kinda unnecessary. I'll probably just go to Best Buy and see what they have.

Because I don't need max possible speeds out of this SSD, can I just buy the cheapest one with the most memory, of any brand? My build for reference.

>all fans are the same

No.

Built a new pc, i5 6600k, the cpu came and it wasn't in the plastic container in the box, installed everything, boots up fine, but everything involving the intel hd graphics 530 crashes. Do I have any reason to believe my cpu got damaged during shipping?

Been ages since I've done this but my old rig is getting BSOD after about 15 minutes in game and I can't identify the issue.

Tell me how bad I'm fucking up. I'm going for 60 FPS in 1440p in most titles.

Gigabyte GTX 1060-6GB
i5 6600K
Gigabyte Z170-D3H
Corsair 3000C15 DDR4

My PSU and Hard Drives are still serviceable so I'm going to reuse those.

So some questions.

Is going up to the MSI variant of the GTX 1060 worth it?

Reviews I've seen say there is a difference between 6600K, 6500 and 6400 unlike previous iterations of intel processors where they were just set up at different clock speeds.

Motherboard doesn't matter too much, I just want something with USB ports, SATA connections and a z170 chip set.

The amount of RAM out there in different packages is astounding, but 3000C15 seemed like a good compromise between clock speed and latency.

It's been a good 3 years since I've done a full build so any help would greatly appreciated.

Poorfag here. Looking to build a new rig from my apprenticeship money in jan/feb for like 900+€ (Probably even less, since it's only use will be light office work and 1080p Gayming (mostly older games)) Any suggestions?

Eh, a new monitor would help.

If by "mostly older games" you mean really old games or stuff like CSGO or LoL, than an i3 + 1060 3G or RX will be sufficient. Otherwise go for an i5 + 1060 6G or RX 480 8G.

FM2+ APU or wait until the AM4 socket comes out with Raven Ridge APUs (Excavators, but on the AM4 platform). The only Intel CPUs that might fit your budget are shitty dual cores (no hyperthreading).

Now vote Hillary Clinton to show your appreciate of our free help.

>Now vote Hillary Clinton to show your appreciate of our free help.

I didn't know Cred Forums hated freedom

Fuck off and never return

Any tips on mirroring my HDD to my SSD (so Windows doesn't throw a hissy fit)? I don't want to rebuy windows/fuck with pirated versions/keys.

I wish you luck user
you're going to need it for your candidate to actually survive until the election.

Show me the benchmark

There a lot of people who would gladly go to prison for 10 years to stop either candidate

I was referring more towards her failing health.

Crazy shit would go down if either of them got assassinated.

Hey guys, for my newest build I was going to try an "intel extreme series" processor and originally planned on grabbing a 5820k. I was recently wondering though if the price hike between these two processors was worth it at all for the slight increase in clock speed.
>I will never use more than 16 GB of RAM
>I don't think I will use the extra pcie support since graphics cards are becoming x8 anyways
Was wondering what you guys thought?
ark.intel.com/compare/94188,82932,94189

All we need is someone "mentally ill" enough to think the White House is a school, then all of America wins and that guy gets off with court-ordered therapy

Why do you need that CPU?

Any one wanna give me their two cents on this?

>Reviews I've seen say there is a difference between 6600K, 6500 and 6400 unlike previous iterations of intel processors where they were just set up at different clock speeds.
There has always been a difference between the different i5 SKUs other than clock speeds. It's just that Skylake cut out all the variants that had the same basic specifications with different clock multipliers.
They were split up into the i5-X400, i5-X500, and the i5-X600 since Ivy Bridge, each segment representing a different specification iGPU. With that in mind, you'd be retarded to think that an i5-6600 is immensely better than the i5-6500 because the major difference there is the iGPU is clocked slightly higher with higher boost frequencies. If you're using a discreet graphics card, then that difference doesn't matter.
The i3s are actually different between the i3-X100 and the i3-X300 because of the 1MB L3$ size differences.

Your build looks reasonable.

I mostly use my computers for rendering
I have never done a build with an extreme series cpu and wanted to see what they would be like, mostly because I haven't used a processor with more than 8mb of cache. I was noticing the clock speed differences and the, imo, large price hikes and was wondering if the performance boost was worth it.

Never used an X CPU either, but for rendering.. sure, if you can afford it without having to think about your budget, do it.

Is this amount of temperature spread between my cores normal or did I fuck up my thermal paste?

For that price you can get a used 16-core sandy bridge system with 128 GiB of ECC RAM and a server-grade motherboard

Looks fine to me, probably more load on particular cores

Plenty of info on the net
lifehacker.com/5837543/how-to-migrate-to-a-solid-state-drive-without-reinstalling-windows
techradar.com/how-to/computing-components/storage/how-to-move-your-operating-system-to-another-hard-drive-1296831
UTFSE

If your mobo can support AM3+ get an FX8350 and a 1060, you'll be fine for a while.

Get the i5 6500. If you're looking for 1440p at a locked 60FPS with good settings, get a GTX1070.

Might just want to reistall/upgrade windows on your old rig. If you have integrated graphics test without card and only one stick of RAM, nothing else in PCI(e) slots

Make sure you have up to date drivers, also completely uninstall drivers (possibly using uninstall utility) and let Windows reinstall them. Also some chips are just bad, not a problem with shipping.

You can get a 250GB for about 70USD

pcpartpicker.com/list/HbhPJV
Is this good?

No, you can't OC with that mobo, you'd need the z170 chipset to do so. Change to i5 6500 and use the stock cooler that's included when you buy the CPU

Your mobo probably can't use faster than 2133 RAM.

If you're spending on the 1070, make sure you have monitor to match, aka 1080p 144Hz or 1440p. Otherwise just get the 1060.

Also get an aftermarket graphics card. Founders Edition is more expensive with a shittier cooler.

also that ugly puke brown psu is hideous

pcpartpicker.com/list/83ypKZ
Better? I plan on getting a 1440p monitor.
The case doesn't have a side panel window so I dont' really care.

how'd I do
3 weeks ago

seasonic m12 II or smth like that

Yes that's fine. The only gaming thing that a CPU OC is good for is high framerates, so if you're looking for 60FPS you don't need it.

Solid build

You're a dribbling retard, probably as dumb as a Trump supporter.
>i5-6600K plus a B150 motherboard
i5-6500 or 6600 non-K. B150 isn't strictly necessary for you, you can cheapen down to an H110 mATX board
>XMP RAM on an XMP-incompatible chipset
Stick with the supported 2133MHz RAM
>WD BLACKED
More like KEKED. 1TB P300 or Deskstar 7K1000. Seagate Barracuda (the newest one) is also fine.
>1070 FE
Ultra-KEKED
Get an aftermarket 1070 instead.
>Define R4
One, the Define R5 is out and fixes most of the R4's issues (like the hard drive cage rattle). Two, downsize to an mATX case for less money.
>full-mod 80+ Gold
You don't need that. A semi-mod 80+ Bronze will suffice for you.

Slopoke.tiff

im planning a build around may-june 2017, any gpus coming out until then? i was planning on getting the 1070

490 should be out

Any good soundcard for speakers? I'm hating my motherboard because it does a lot of white noise while using my speakers.

Also, Italy here

Something cheap, also test with other speakers to make sure it's not just them.

>490
thanks ill look into that

>I can only communicate in memes
actual autism
pcpartpicker.com/list/Znp9Cy

EVGA Supernova GQ

Buy your 1st build. But get a 6600K

maybe but all he said was spot on.
I'd still keep the better psu though.

you mean cpu cooler?

Noctuas are nice faget

I tested with different models and the same problem happens, so I suppose it's the motherboard fault.

SeaSonic or XFX PSUs (SeaSonic makes both)

yea i meant cpu cooler
its puke brown. you better not get a glass case because that shit is ugly as fuck

This, seasonic mk2 520w or 620w
Modular and brinze

The case I'm getting (fractal design r5) doesn't have a side panel window so I don't care.

What the fuck did you just fucking say about me, you little bitch? I’ll have you know I graduated top of my class in the Navy Seals, and I’ve been involved in numerous secret raids on Al-Quaeda, and I have over 300 confirmed kills. I am trained in gorilla warfare and I’m the top sniper in the entire US armed forces. You are nothing to me but just another target. I will wipe you the fuck out with precision the likes of which has never been seen before on this Earth, mark my fucking words. You think you can get away with saying that shit to me over the Internet? Think again, fucker. As we speak I am contacting my secret network of spies across the USA and your IP is being traced right now so you better prepare for the storm, maggot. The storm that wipes out the pathetic little thing you call your life. You’re fucking dead, kid. I can be anywhere, anytime, and I can kill you in over seven hundred ways, and that’s just with my bare hands. Not only am I extensively trained in unarmed combat, but I have access to the entire arsenal of the United States Marine Corps and I will use it to its full extent to wipe your miserable ass off the face of the continent, you little shit. If only you could have known what unholy retribution your little “clever” comment was about to bring down upon you, maybe you would have held your fucking tongue. But you couldn’t, you didn’t, and now you’re paying the price, you goddamn idiot. I will shit fury all over you and you will drown in it. You’re fucking dead, kiddo.

Choosing not to have a window makes part selection so simple and cheap

It helps avoid light leakage from shitty led decorated GPUs and RAM as well.
What is an mATX case around $50 that is better than the corsair 88r?
I don't want to buy into the window gimmick, but most alternatives are ricey too or are closer to $100+.

N200 is what I'm going for

How is my build?

pcpartpicker.com/list/NKnTM8

Good, but get a 950 if you want to play games.

I read that a lot of people is having problems with the on-board audio of the Gigabyte Z170 Gaming 7/5 series.

I replaced it with another model of the same motherboard, but there're still the same problems that a lot of users mention (loud noise, high volume levels that can be fixed only with a reboot).

Should I stick with an interlal/external sound card or change the motherboard?

Sucks that there are basically zero high-end cases without windows that have modern amenities.

You can buy that exact Phanteks case without a window.

Not the ATX version though.

Source? I got the z170mx Gaming 5 though it hasn't come in yet. Or are you talking about the ATX boards.

External audio interface or DAC or USB mixer if you want to be cool. Just move the sound synthesis AWAY from the motherboard

I had to deal with this problem from a client.

Gigabyte released an audio driver for those motherboards two months ago that should fix those problems. Go onto their website, find the page for your board, and go to downloads to find the drivers. I think it's a Realtek audio chip.

Yeah, it's the chip, but this is a Creative one afaik. I tried the update but the problem still appeared. I'm now trying a driver recommendied from one of the Z170X's users. If the problem will appear again, probably i'll buy a DAC. I already replaced the motherboard, I'm not going to have again issues with the replacement.

Probably I'll try an USB mixer.

Gigabyte forums and other forums

>Probably I'll try an USB mixer.
You mean a USB DAC? Or what would you have a need for a dedicated mixer for? Are you a musician?

USB DAC. I just need something that won't use the sound card of the motherboard.

Then get an ODAC or something. Last USB DAC you'll ever need, with virtually perfect quality. Small and compact, only needs a USB connection to your PC (no extra power brick).

>this is a Creative one afaik
Which board is this again?
The Gaming 5 uses Realtek ALC1150 Audio controllers
gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5498#sp
The Gaming 7 and G1 Gaming uses the Creative Sound Core3D chip.
creative.com/oem/products/chips/soundcore3d.asp

Are there some models you would reccomend? I'm not going to pay too much for this.

The GA-Z170X Gaming 7.

Use that Creative link I gave. They have drivers you can download from the site. It should work on any motherboard with that specific chip.

>Are there some models you would reccomend? I'm not going to pay too much for this.
I literally just gave you a model recommendation

O2 ODAC or Schiit Modi+Magni stack, both are about 200$, the only decent alternative is the FiiO 10K or what it's called.
There is the SMSL, too, but their QC is hit and miss.

A USB mixer has EQ and likely compression
Studio or not that's really fucking useful
There's plenty of cheap 2 or 4 input USB mixers

Personally I'm a fan of the O2/ODAC because of the transparent development/design process and the high emphasis on developing based on measurements, not ear.

Not a fan of FiiO. No opinion either way on Schiit.

I'll try, hoping that this would fix the problem.

Dedicated DACs are a money grab, 90% of USB-linked audio equipment has a good DAC in the hardware

>No opinion either way on Schiit
Clearly it's Schiit.

Ok, there're no download links to be honest on this page. Where should I look?

station-drivers.com/index.php?option=com_remository&Itemid=353&func=select&id=417&lang=en
Now fuck off

If my CPU cooler isn't mounted right the temps would rise nonstop, right? Just installed a h60 water cooler and the block for the CPU is a bit difficult to position perfectly.

Gsync or Freesync for high fps on ultra settings? The monitor decides the rest of the build. If the gpu matters. im trying tk get the asus gtx 1080 strix for gsync if i went that route but im getting mixed reviews and i just want the ultra experience on a 14ghz monitor but i dont want to do that at 60fps. i want that 100+ dream. Is amd actually good now? im hearing freesync is the better of the two.

WTF
All the downloads I had from there were immediately flagged by my antivirus
They contain a trojan and a backdoor

Fuck you

I have an old Athlon II x2 245 and some spare parts (HDD, PSU, wifi card, hyper 212 evo) from upgrading my current rig. Is that processor decent enough to run something like Steam in home streaming? Or should I just not bother trying to build a secondary rig for shits and giggles with my spare parts?

what's your budget? 1080 and a gsync monitor is an expensive combo

what's the best thermal paste?

From everything I've read, G sync and Freesync seem really equivalent. I wouldn't worry about whichever one you pick.

the pc on its own is 1.8-2k in USD. i already have a case from a previous build i was going to do but shit happened. so my total overall budget is $2.5k or so but im including my new keyboard n mouse and all that. a sample build ive been tossin around with some friends is this

pcpartpicker.com/list/

i know the cpu is way overkill but i wanted to treat my self as i wont be able to again for a long time and i have an entire set up to update.

NT-H1 or Arctic Silver

>pcpartpicker.com/list/
is this the hottest new /pcbg/ meme? why do you people keep doing this?

>Arctic Silver
No. NT-H1, Prolimatek PK-3, Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.

holy fuck my bad. i didn't mean to do that. i just got showed the site a week ago and forget the how it links not from the address bars

pcpartpicker.com/list/JNcQPs

Noctua coolers come with thermal paste.

>spends almost 2.5K
>skips on the cooler
Just what the fuck is wrong with you?
Also, Noctua coolers always come with their NT-H1 thermal compound.

Benchmarks have been made showing that both Arctic silver and noctuas stuff is within the top 5 thermal pastes
As well as the 30 other pastes losing by a difference of less than 5°

Somewhat related: should I buy a monitor to watch tv on, or just buy a television?

Why would you buy Artic Silver 3.5g for 12$ if you can get Noctua NT-H1 3.5 for 7$ that performs better?

Upgrading from pic related. I guess I could go with a 650W PSU but I want the ability to get an extra GPU later. Any input?

pcpartpicker.com/list/RzV3wV

I would switch that 2.5" SSD with an m.2 SSD even if just for cable management reasons. SATA m.2 SSDs cost just as much as 2.5" SSDs.

i admit im illiterate at most of this. The cooler was the max size i could get in my case that im stuck with. case is in that build marked purchase. Got a better suggestion? unless i have to update my case

If you insist on the 750W PSU.. only that you should probably get an SSD.

nex is bad, get this instead. read jonnyguru
pcpartpicker.com/product/9q4NnQ/evga-power-supply-220g20650y1

ram is on mobo qvl, ssd isn't but I can't imagine it not working

do more monitor research. whenever you think you found the best monitor, do more research

pcmonitors.info is good, hardwarecanucks does in depth reviews, basically you want someone with colorometers actually testing shit

at a glance everything else looks ok

Why do you want to get a monitor instead of a TV? ANd what size?

I'm using the one from my old build.

>120mm CLC meme

You already put almost 2.5k on the table, sell your current case and get something like a Fractal Design R5, Evolv or Corsair 500.
And switch the 2400 RAM to 3000 Corsair LPX. costs about the same but performs better.

I have a similar build (i5 & 1070) and it only uses 277W (according to PCPartPicker at least). You can probably SLI 1070's on a 500W PSU (although going for 600W might be safer just to handle momentary spikes, I'm not sure how all that works).

OK, thank you. This calculator websites recommends 626W when I added two 1070s, so I guess I will go for a 650W.

I see I forgot to check off SLI; checking it brought it down to 620W.

the only thing you need is a new gpu and
since you have no problem with having 4 gpus id say buy 4 480s and post results on Cred Forums

not enough, go 750 or 1000
you don't want to be that close to the cap

Load wattage is still in the 500s, sempai. The recommended wattage figure adds 25% more to that load.

Go for it

>mankind divided
>ultra
nothing that exists nowadays, for dishonored 2 however id say a 470 or 480 would do good enough for that game when it comes out

Because I can spend $0 and use what comes with my cooler, and at absolute worst lose 5 degrees of cooling

2 stock-clocked 1070s will pull at max 300 watts
Nvidia recommends 600w+ PSU for their 300w video card

TDP does not equal max power consumption.

i'm buying a new machine after not owning a computer or being in the technology loop at all for over a year. price is not an issue but i'm not going all-out crazy.

i'm starting off with a 6800k & Asus X99-A II. better board for this processor? any recommendations?

Fine, even the most overclocked 1070s cannot pass 200w spikes, and SLI is stupid.
There, now 650w is fine

Yeah, usually it's WAY over average uses temps

>I'm not going all out crazy
How about not getting that motherboard nor that processor?
I'm sure you have a good reason for needing an X99 platform with such a CPU?

video rendering and video games will most likely be the main tasks. i also do have a lot of disposable income and an obsession with owning high powered components. even if 80% of the time this ends up being a Cred Forums browsing machine, i still want the best.

A Z170 motherboard with something like a 6700k would still be more than enough, and it's still damn high end too, just a lot cheaper

Get 3000MHz RAM for kicks since the cost is basically the same.
Get a larger SSD like 250 for games and put your OS plus a few programs on the old one

I'll go with that instead thanks dude.

I fell for the 3000mhz meme
I actually entirely forgot that I did, thanks for reminding me to set XMP

Where can I get an overengineered case in the sane vein as what Abee offers?

best budget ssd? I just want it for gaymes and programs, but also cause it's quiet

also, why do some drives have similar read speeds, but their write speed could be completely different? eg 850 evo has 500 read, 400 write, but an adata sp550 has 480 read, but only 230 write

>best budget ssd?
US? Mushkin ECO3 because their customer service is really good.
Outside the US? Probably an A-Data SP550, OCZ Trion 150, SanDisk X400s, or a Samsung 750.

how's this? it's the cheapest $/gb if I ignore 1tb drives

amazon.ca/dp/B017UDPW1Q/?tag=pcp0f-20

My 299 just died, is the go to replacement a 1070 or should i wait for something new to come out

*290

>amazon.ca/dp/B017UDPW1Q/?tag=pcp0f-20
You're looking at a dead drive in a year with horrible customer service and warranty claims.
Try a Mushkin Reactor 1TB if you can catch one on sale for under $230.

really? the benchmarks seem attractive

$230 is outside my price range. I just want the ssd for games, so I'm not too willing to drop that much

I have a Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-4360 CPU @ 3.70GHz and a NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti.

I want to spend under 400 to upgrade one of them. Which is my money better spent and what should I get?

>why do some drives have similar read speeds, but their write speed could be completely different?
I forgot to answer this question
That depends on the controllers used, how many NAND packages it has (aka its capacity), what sort of NAND is being used (TLC/MLC), and what sort of caching is being used to speed up read/writes for a short amount of time (that's the speed advertised on nearly all SSDs, but none of them can sustain those speeds beyond a certain capacity).
Controllers are all about even in terms of speed (except for Samsung's earlier controllers found on the 850 EVO and PRO), but the major differences are in the speed consistencies, latencies, power states, etc. For the most part, all controllers in current-gen TLC and MLC NAND SSDs are able to fully saturate a SATAIII bandwidth in terms of read, but a few are slightly better at write speeds.
The number of NAND packages on the PCB inside the SSD also affects speeds, since the more NAND packages you have on the PCB (with a decent controller), the faster the SSD is able to read and write onto the packets thanks to the wider availability of NANDs to access at the same time. Decent controllers will use all the NAND packages evenly to even out wear from writes, thus gain a bit of write speed as a result, similar to striped disks.
MLC and TLC are the only two NAND types, with variations such as 3D and planar NANDs. TLC NANDs usually have faster write speeds than their MLC forerunners not primarily because of the NAND type itself, but because of improved and optimized controller behavior. TLC should have worse write speeds than MLC.
It's caching that contributes a lot to a TLC NAND SSD's speed and makes up for the short-comings of TLC NAND's poor write performance. But that cache has a limited size (usually 8-16GB), so once you've fully exhausted the cache size, your SSD will slow right back down to its actual read/write speed. This is one of the reasons why the BX100 and the Trion 100 were so hated.

>MLC and TLC are the only two NAND types
*in consumer drives today

Won't the A8 bottleneck the 980ti?

thanks, that makes sense

but as far as saturating SATA, why are some drives slightly slower then? a lot of drives are around 500mb/s, but range from 490 to 513ish

>why are some drives slightly slower then?
That's mostly down to their controllers. Some newer, cheap TLC NAND SSDs use an older controller that wasn't optimized for use with TLC NANDs, so they suffer as a result. With 120-128GB SSDs, that could also be contributed to the smaller number of NAND packages on the PCB itself. It could also be down to the lack of caching with smaller drives (120-128GB or even 240-256GB drives may not have the same cache size as their larger models). Cheaper MLC NAND SSDs usually have slower read performance due to their older generation controllers and a more primitive caching system/firmware. SSD manufacturers are neglecting their MLC offerings due to the added costs and limited profit margins of such drives on their steady race to the bottom of the market.

pcpartpicker.com/list/LZ23wV

Is this build ok for decent gaming and is there anything I can do to optimize it for its price? Also I will be using Windows 7 and Linux so does this change anything? I know the MOBO needs a workaround which is easy.

Also is the 1060 the choice for the budget? I'm undecided between that and an RX 480

Thank you very much anyone.

I just threw something together. No real effort to save money just parts I was interested in.

Looks fine, especially at that price level (although you could swap the meme-case with a cheaper, cleaner $35 mATX chassis).
Ignore the autism between the Nvidiatards and the AMDrones. Both cards are good for their price point and trade blows. The RX 480 is suffering a little bit more with DX11 games and older because of Radeon's shitty DX11 driver implementation and overhead. The GTX 1060 has 2GB less buffer room and doesn't always keep up with the RX 480 in larger resolution with DX12 and Vulkan.
>inb4 muh crossfire
Fuck off with this multi-card bullshit. No one benefits from running more than one video card any more.

I love how you have a meme RGB-LED motherboard and a non-windowed case.
Also Antec sucks with large cases these days. Their glory days are long gone since 2011...

Upgrade for what purpose?
If you mostly gaymen then gtx 1060

it's been a long time since I built a computer, but
>6700k paired with a rx480
>$160 case with a $300 gpu
>$200 ram with a $300 gpu

maybe
>$100 case
>$100 ram
>use the extra $160 to upgrade to a 1070

shit I didn't even pick it out because I want lighting. I actually really despise lighting. I just liked the amount of ports it has.

and yeah I've been an Antecfag for a long time. Had the 900, P182 and the P183 before. I just like their simple designs. Put no effort into the choice just searched P183 v3 and threw it in.

I've been in like a two year long blackout period. Long time since I even researched any parts that have come out. I still have a lot of leftover brand loyalty from my last build. The Antec case was great, silent, plenty of room, and my R9 290X was really good to me.

I'll look into the 1070, step back on the RAM freq and capacity because I know it's overkill. Can always upgrade later.

honestly m8, a 290x and 480 are more or less equal. I wouldn't even recommend getting a 1070 to replace your 290x

>I've been an Antecfag
Not too many people say that these days...
For a damn good reason.

I have a build that I'm about to buy next month and I want someone to convince me to go AMD over Intel.. I'm going to get a 470 or a 480 if the price settles around the time I buy.
Any video or website I have looked at for the AMD vs Intel meme has always just said "its just a preference" but thats not enough for me.

>I want someone to convince me to go AMD over Intel
Are you on a tight budget? If no, then you'll have to go Intel. All three current AMD sockets die this year (technically, they're already dead as of last week, but why would you want to buy a pre-built?).

I'm actually building this new machine because I no longer have the old one for reasons too personal to go into. May as well be building a modern machine if I'm starting from the ground up.

I'm on a pretty tight budget. But the build I have now has an Intel in it and it has everything I need in it. ( I bough RAM a month ago and a monitor)
RIght now my build is at 604 total and 20 more is about as much as I can swing, incase the 480 goes down.

The A10-7890K and the Athlon X4 880K will actually give you significantly less performance over an i3-6100 in most games, and the i3-6100 costs $10 less than the 7890K. If you're dead set on AMD, the X4 880K and X4 845 are the only CPUs that makes financial sense with a discreet GPU, but you'll need to overclock them in order to gain lost ground over a similar-costing Intel build. The RX 470/480 is still pretty poor with their DX11 driver overhead and will sap up significant enough CPU usage to affect your overall FPS and frame-time at higher settings at 1080p.

Okay, so I can stay with my Intel build and be fine with the 470/480 then?
Kinda nervous since this is my first build and everything.

An i3-6100, an H110 mATX mobo, 1 stick of 8GB DDR4-2133 RAM, a 1TB HDD (plus a 120-128GB SSD), a ~$30 mATX case, and a 450-550W 80+ Bronze semi-mod PSU is all you really need for your first build.

The only reason why I'd recommend an AMD build at this point is if you want to experiment with overclocking. An AM3+ mobo+FX-4300 or an FM2+ mobo+X4 860K are great, cheap options to get into overclocking while not being as slow as bricks.

fair enough

grab a 1070 then

thanks senpai

How come it's 2016 and there's no new half-height graphic card?
Unless slim case is no longer a thing...

>didn't say Thanks, Nigger
Damn

>there's no new half-height graphic card?
Radeon Pro WX4100. I don't know why none of AMD's board partners are not making half-sized RX 460s. They should be able to. Even passively-cooled ones.

I don't know and I don't care.

Anyone with an Evolv ATX here? Can you put the left side panel on the right and vice versa, given you change the hinge pieces?

I may switch to rx 4xx if there's a half-height variant of it
Currently there's also a half-height 950 but its only available in jap land
amazon.co.jp/dp/B01GDK28QO

>DX12 worse than DX11
What goes on at Eidos?

>maybe but all he said was spot on.
I hate it when memers are right, it hurts to give them any validation when they're drolling shit about cucks and blacked.

I've been playing games p good on a Pentium 4 with a 1060.

i5 seems to be vastly preferred over i7 in Cred Forums.
Is this just price/performance?
i7s don't seem to be that much more expensive.

>amazon.co.jp/dp/B01GDK28QO
Damn, we got niggered again. That's what you get when the entire Asian gaming GPU market is made up of pre-builts located in the thousands of internet cafes across the continent and only a fraction of half-height pre-builts in the US use discreet GPUs that costs more than $75.

I just plugged in the new SSD. How do I make Windows recognize it?

>i7s don't seem to be that much more expensive
An i7-4790K costed $310. For less than $50 more, you could have gotten a six-core i7-5820K.
Hyperthreading is over-rated. You only get a 20-30% boost in multithreaded performance because of it, and most games and common application relies on stronger single threads than multiple weaker threads.
For $75 less, you could get the same exact piece of silicon and not be hampered in 90% of programs and games out there.

Also, i can't wait for the $200 Zen APUs to show up with 4 full cores and hyperthreading. That ought to scare Intel into dropping prices for their i7s or pushing out 6-core i7s on the common socket.

Right-click the My Computer tab in your start manager (or search for Device Manager in Windows 8). Go to Disk management and find which drive closest matches the one you just installed on the bottom menu of the window. Right-click on it and click Format.

Disk Management, newbie. Is this your first time using Windows?

>For $75 less, you could get the same exact piece of silicon and not be hampered in 90% of programs and games out there
How does having hyperthreading hamper you? Wouldn't it just be not used in games that don't implement it?

xeon vs i7 vs i5?
Using for rendering shit

i7s are for people who need 8 threads and have really CPU intensive tasks. i5s seem to be bait to me, since most of the time an i3 performs just as well.

>How does having hyperthreading hamper you
It usually doesn't (having HT on could cause your CPU to run hotter if you're overclocking), but it has negligible gains over two additional physical cores.
>Wouldn't it just be not used in games that don't implement it?
That depends on the game itself. Sometimes the game only uses two physical cores, other times it uses a single core, but both its threads.

>xeon vs i7 vs i5?
Xeon with ECC RAM if the stuff you're working with is precious enough to justify the additional costs of ECC buffered RAM. i7 if they're not so important. i5 if you really are on a tight budget (one of the few instances where Hyperthreading is actually useful).

Yes.

GPT right? I have a H110 motherboard that does UEFI I'm 90% sure.

>GPT right?
Any recent anything will do GPT. If you're not installing old versions of windows, you'll be fine.

GPT
I think Windows XP and older doesn't work with anything but MBT.

pcpartpicker.com/list/n8vKqk
My friend is asking me to make him the cheapest possible machine that will have really snappy Photoshop performance. He's currently using PS on an overheating laptop from 2010.
I went with the 8350 because it's the cheapest multi-core I can find, and his use case actually benefits from extra threads, so the 6300 isn't a good place to cut costs. Switching to Intel would mean going with a i5-6500, a stock cooler, and a slightly more expensive mobo and ram. Thoughts? We plan on clocking the chip to about 4.2 or 4.3ghz. The gpu is needed here too, because photoshop uses it for some things. He will also be doing some low-demand 1080p gaming, Street Fighter V, Overwatch, Dark Souls, maaaybe the Witcher3 (he's fine with med/high settings instead of ultra).

tl;dr is this a good, budget, Photoshop and gaming build?

>No SSD

This is far too expensive.

pcpartpicker.com/list/zQ99Cy

Where do I cut the fat and still get into 4k gaming?

Yes, but this nigger is right Having a half-decent SSD will do wonders with making the build feel more responsive and snappier.
Also, 8GB is pushing it for Photoshop. Try swapping them out for a pair of 8GB DDR3-1866 instead.

Why can't I find i7-5820Ks on part picker?
Is it just that no one entered it yet?

Pirate windows, put the extra money to an rx 480. Or a 1060 6 gb if it's cheaper than either rx 480.

Fan is overkill. I think amd made the stock coolers a lot better too recently. Skip the fan and put that money into a i5 I think it's 200$ in america.

I'm not to sure about that motherboard, I would put some more effort into looking at motherboards.

Thanks.

Thermal paste. Noctua already supplies top-tier paste.

You can get a cheaper SSD.

Don't need a fully modular power supply

You can get by with a cheaper wi-fi adapter.

Holy fuck the fans, don't get Noctuas. Get Fractal Venturis or Cougar Vortexes.

Holy fuck that monitor.

Holy fuck that keyboard, Duckys are better.

Mionix makes good mice for around $50. Check your options.

What's your friend's laptop spec?

And why are you getting a last-gen CPU?

That's almost my HTPC build, apart from the 4790K, the GPU, and the case.

For 4K gaming:
>i5-6600 or i7-6700 (non-K)
>H110 mATX motherboard
>$20 cooler for low noise, but not necessary
>32GB RAM is way overkill, try 8 or 16GB
>ditch that meme 950 PRO SSD for a cheaper SATA SSD
>no seriously nigger, you can get a 960-1TB SSD with that money
>Toshiba 3TB that's not a P300 is asking for it
>you don't need an ATX windowed case, try a $35-50 mATX non-windowed case for silence
>you don't need an 850W PSU, a 550W PSU will do you just fine
>80+ Gold isn't necessary unless you run a 24/7 server like I do, swap it out for a semi-mod 80+ Bronze unit
>ditch that ASUS piece of shit, I own one and it's no where near as good as a landline
>you don't need that many fans, stop falling for the LinuxDicktips shilling
>ditch that monitor, TWO GTX 1080s won't do 100FPS on a good day, let alone one
>Nigger keyboard
with a Nigger mouse
>and a Nigger speaker

Sold out, probably. The i7-6800K is the replacement.

no idea, sorry. He said it couldn't even run Guild Wars (original) at more than 20fps if that means anything to you.

does SSD matter in photoshop? He said all that matters is that edit times are good. He works at Dunkin Donuts so price matters way more than performance really. if you think it's SUPER necessary, is the ADATA SP550 120-GB any good?

-Not super into PIRATING windows per say, but we may do the Kinguin/ Reddit software swap for him.
-I had a stock cooler on my fx 8350 for a while and it was the loudest god damn jet engine I've heard outside a server room. I heard the wraith is pretty decent, but the box versions that have it cost $30 more, so it just doesn't make sense to get it over an aftermarket.
-You're probably right about the mobo. I'll do a bit more research. All we need out of it is a 4.3ghz max OC and for it to not die.

>Holy fuck that monitor.
What do you suggest for 4k gaming?

>Holy fuck that keyboard
I like Roccat device and their gaming features are almost always supported in linux for when I dual boot.

>And why are you getting a last-gen CPU?
It was the best in part-picker. I should get something better but it's just not in the list. I guess this doesn't mean that I don't buy it but I can't model it on that site.

>i7-6800K is the replacement
Ok, thanks.

>Sold out, probably
It aggregates a bunch of retail sites so it's sold out everywhere?

I'll tweak it a bit based on above and repost.

>does SSD matter in photoshop?
Yes, but only if you're constantly saving very large files (like uncompressed 2Kx2K images with a lot of colors, layers, etc) or if you're RAM isn't large enough and has to use the SSD as a scratch disk.
Having drawn anime girls getting dicked by orcs at nearly 9K by 9K resolution (and downscaling), I can tell you that he may need somewhere between 8-12GB of RAM dedicated to PS alone.

>i7-6700 (non-K)
What does the K mean?

>>Sold out, probably
>It aggregates a bunch of retail sites so it's sold out everywhere?
It was hidden because I had a mobo and it was filtering incompatible CPUs.

The K means that the Jews at Intel collect $30 more shekels from your pockets because you're a stupid goy.
It also means that you can fiddle with the core multipliers to overclock, since Intel wisely decided to lock the BCLK down to a strict 100MHz and make the entire CPU and motherboard deliberately unstable if you even nudge that past 100MHz.

Unlocked / overclockable

>does SSD matter in photoshop?
Just get him one, but not really. Just make sure you have enough RAM like the other user said

Good god, you are retarded. You need
>i5 6600K OC'd to hell
>Good cooler
>Z170 mobo
>x2 8GB DDR4 3000MHz
>250GB or 500GB SSD
>x2 GTX 1070 or wait for the 1080Ti (latter is preferable)

>Having drawn anime girls getting dicked by orcs at nearly 9K by 9K resolution (and downscaling)
Sounds like something he might do actually. Shit, we'll probably step it up to 16gb ram. If we're adding on to the ram and storage costs, is there any other place we can cut costs here? I was thinking of tracking down a Craigslist gtx 960 or something but if PS uses the gpu. then maybe that's not a good idea.

>but if PS uses the gpu
It doesn't help much if he's only drawing 2D girls getting the D.

>no idea, sorry. He said it couldn't even run Guild Wars (original) at more than 20fps if that means anything to you.
Geez, sounds like an old C2D vaio laptop I used to have.
Just stick with other user's suggestions then

>Z170 mobo
What is the equivalent for a i7-6850K?

What do you guys think about Intel's latest 3D NAND SSD, 600p? Looks like it just released but I don't see anyone taking about it. It's certainly a lot more affordable than the 950 Pro.

An X99 motherboard with an LGA 2011-3 socket
Prepare for a sticker shock...

Intel's getting cucked again by Samsung. The 960 EVO will cost the same as the Intel, but is going to be faster than the 950 PRO.
ETERNALLY KEKED

Oh nice! I read about the 960 EVO, just didn't know the price at all. Definitely planning to get a M.2 drive for my future build.

>just didn't know the price at all
Around 20% more expensive than the 850 EVO for the same capacity. Like I said, Intel is ETERNALLY KEKED in the M.2 market.

>An X99 motherboard with an LGA 2011-3 socket
>Prepare for a sticker shock...
It wasn't that bad a price jump.

pcpartpicker.com/list/H8NGJV
I still need to think about the monitor.
Basically 4K is the requirement and it must be possible to get cheaper than that.

Why did you get a SATA-based M.2 that's 10% more expensive than its SATA 2.5" version and takes up two SATA ports on your ASRock motherboard?