/pcbg/ - PC Building General

/pcbg/ - PC Building General
Not actually an anime edition.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, please politely direct them here.

Last one here:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/vyhMCy
pcpartpicker.com/list/7qcfd6
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811353102,
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149633
pcpartpicker.com/list/4dFTM8
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/3n9qRG
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/3n9qRG/by_merchant/
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/4tyfd6
pcpartpicker.com/list/F6JVFd
pcpartpicker.com/user/Erickazo99/saved/K3dCJx
pcpartpicker.com/list/LWWXRG
pcpartpicker.com/list/VKjcxY
pcpartpicker.com/list/Vp4PFd
pcpartpicker.com/list/MLCyWX
pcpartpicker.com/list/Dx6spb
pcpartpicker.com/list/nJyXRG
youtu.be/7UrKy1EuO0k
amazon.com/gp/product/B01JHQSZ40/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
pcpartpicker.com/list/f8vnpb
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/G6cKpb
pcpartpicker.com/list/j8GGJV
pcpartpicker.com/list/8vBb2R
pcpartpicker.com/list/vsdXRG
monoprice.com/product?p_id=13808
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/4fKBqk
pcpartpicker.com/list/2z7TM8
backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-q1-2015/
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/NMV74C
pcpartpicker.com/list/9TjpKZ
asrock.com/microsite/hyper/
asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty E3V5 Performance GamingOC/
logicalincrements.com/games/wow
pcpartpicker.com
logicalincrements.com/
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487265
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487249
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487259
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487262
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

So sleeve bearings are shit and M+B SDDs a bad idea.

Build updated:
pcpartpicker.com/list/vyhMCy

First for Alienware

Anyone have an H440 they would like to comment on? I have my parts in an R5 at the moment, and while it's a great case, I don't really like the plastic front panel and I wish it were metal.

does the hyper 212 evo come with paste
Is it good enough or should I go to Best Buy or something?

>does it come with paste
It does come with thermal paste.
>is it good enough
It depends on what you consider good enough, the hyper 212 evo is not the best cooler, but it is the best for the price. You can do moderate overclocking with it.

Well I plan to not overclock until I need to, which could be years from now
My friend might have some 2 year old Arctic silver in storage, I figure the paste really isn't that big a deal?

I wouldn't use two year old paste since it may have hardened up and got worse conductivity.

The Arctic Silver would be better than the thermal paste that comes pre-packaged with the hyper 212 evo.

A relative asked me if i can build her a cheap but up-to-date PC. She mentioned that it would be for family's web surfing and studying, so I come up with this. What do you guys think?
pcpartpicker.com/list/7qcfd6
I expect her to pick windows 10 but I dont use it so have no idea if 2GB RAM is enough

That is brutal, I'd bump the ram stick up to 4GB for sure but it looks like it'll work

Finish computer build. Turn computer on.

What the fuck does this even mean?

Go with 4. If she likes to have a shit-ton of tabs or whatever so with 8. SSDs make things much quicker and can be had for cheap.

This is pure shit even for surfing. Take the Intel Pentium g4400 or the g4500 and install 4 gb of ram or more. Take a 1 tb drive from Seagate ot wd. If you take the 250 gb drive she's probably going to throw the pc in the trash in a week.

First time building a desktop, my budget is around 2500, want input and feedback: This will be for playing games (VR in the future), image and video editing, as well as some 3d software stuff.

Some miscellaneous questions I have:

-Is there a better/rmore reliable/cheaper without being too much worse HDD model?

-case wise, i'm also considering newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811353102, The only real con i'm seeing is the lack of the carrying handle, opinions here?

-Is there a better mobo I could get for just as much money.cheaper/only a little more money then that? I have no clue what to look for in them. My only preference is I'd rather it not be a specific color beyond black/gray; and it needs to support SLI in case I wanna get a second 1070 in 2-3 years. On that note, does this mobo even support SLI? I see a review for it on newegg suggesting it may have issues doing so if I understand it right:

> It would be really nice if all PCIx slots could be run at x16 or even x8 at all times. The 3rd slot as noted in the specs is shared with the SATA controller. This is less than ideal and is really only useful if you're going to add on a RAID controller card. For me, it is not really an issue with a single GPU, but for others, the drop may be noticeable.

- is it worth going for a 6800k over the 6700k? I won't be able to get a new build or upgrade the CPU/mobo for a LONG time after this, like 5-7 years minimum, so i'm thinking it might be

Without 100Gb gaymen taking up your drive, what are casuals gonna use 250GB for?
I bet the relative has a 16Gb iPhone

SLI is dumb, and it's even more dumb when planning on using new cards for it, get a new GPU in 2-3 years and get much better performance per dollar. By that time SLI might even have lost all mainstream support

Are you really considering buying a less functional case because you wish the front was metal? Which do hate more, money or yourself?

>Finish computer build. Turn computer on.
>What the fuck does this even mean?
Your video card suggests activating some of its features on account of detecting high-res flat panel monitors connected.

>Without 100Gb gaymen taking up your drive, what are casuals gonna use 250GB for?
Downloading shit probably.
Maybe her son will need a pr0n stash.

Backing up every photo they take, ever.

2-3tb drives are pretty cheap, they're about where the sweet spot is now.

CPU are not going to get better for a LONG time, the 6700k is fine
Like we're basically at a plateau for CPUs until someone busts out the non-silicon tech

My parents have been cumulating their hard drives for almost a decade and their whole life doesn't even take up 90GB

Best all-round 4k monitor?

So in other words, instead of getting another 1070, just get a 1080 or something?

The HDR IPS 144hz one on sale on Black Friday 2018

Pretty much, SLI barely gets you advantages now and it's clear that support is moving away from multi-gpu setups
I bet the 1180ti will kick ass by then

Yeaah, shouldnt be too cheap with RAMs, I will go with 4GB
Actually she likes to save money so the cheaper the better, although 2 is too little by today standard, I think 8 is too much for them
The same reason I didn't pick SSD.
I know my relative's using habit and they dont download that much, most of the time they just stream videos and musics. One time I was asked to look at her husband's laptop (which the whole family used) to fix some issues and found out they barely downloaded pass 10GB. I would go with 500GB or 1TB otherwise.
Question though, what's the gain coming from G1840 to G4400/4500?

My facebook machine uses 4Gb of RAM easily, you definitely need 4+
And SSDs can be a cheap way to make the computer feel a lot better than it actually is, I got a 128GB SSD for $40, I'm sure you could cheap out harder than I can

>This is pure shit even for surfing
My Pentium J3710 begs to differ. That Celeron is fast enough for normies.
Try finding a Celeron J3160 motherboard. It might be $10 cheaper, but you can put that $10 towards something else. Also, the whole system would only use ~50W when CPU load is 100%. A Celeron J3160 ITX might be cheap enough, allowing you to buy a thin ITX case with a built in PSU to save even more money.
>i7-6700K
Okay
>Z170 PRO
Well, if the budget allows, sure
>32GB DDR4-3200
Hmm, I don't think you'll see a whole lot of benefit from the faster frequencies, but the RAM size is good for video editing.
>two 500GB SSDs
Stop. Buy a single 960GB or 1TB SSD for about 80% of the cost. If even that. DO NOT RAID SSDS FOR REAL WORLD SPEED PERFORMANCE. You simply won't see any benefits because the SATA controller will not be able to keep up. You'll need a PCIe SSD to gain some measurable performance.
>two 3TB WD Black
Two 2TB Toshiba P300 will be just as fast at a much lower price. Also, why RAID if you already have an SSD?
>Cooler Master case
That's a bit high, but it's in your budget.
>MEMEVGA Platinum 1200W PSU
Are you running this computer on a 24/7 basis? No? Then you don't need an 80+ Platinum rated PSU. Nor do you need that high of a wattage, 750W is the most you should be looking at, even with 8 7200rpm HDDs.
Final note, where's your CPU cooler?

>Toshiba P300
Not that user but I've been told this before.
What's a P300? Or how do I tell whether a given Toshiba HD is a P300?

>What's a P300?
Gee, I don't know. Maybe it's the NAME OF THE FUCKING DRIVE
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149633

I will just go with 1 stick of 4GB RAM for now. If they really use that much RAM I can buy another to upgrade.
As for SSD I am going to ask her if she's willing to pay some more for faster everything
>soldered board
>thin case with built in PSU
I didn't think of this, and looks like it does save some money, both purchase and electric bill.
Its not listed on part picker for some reason though

>Stop. Buy a single 960GB or 1TB SSD for about 80% of the cost. If even that. DO NOT RAID SSDS FOR REAL WORLD SPEED PERFORMANCE. You simply won't see any benefits because the SATA controller will not be able to keep up. You'll need a PCIe SSD to gain some measurable performance.

Maybe it wasn't obvious: I'm doing a dual boot with windows 7 and windows 10. I want windows 10 for dx12 games, but I don't want to have to deal with w10's bullshit, so i'll be using w7 for everything else.

>Two 2TB Toshiba P300 will be just as fast at a much lower price.
I don't exactly hear a lot about Toshiba HDDs. How reliable are they?

>Also, why RAID if you already have an SSD?
I'm not planning on doing RAID, I just need an absurd amount of storage for all the images I edit and video files and such. I also save high res press assets for stuff as a hobby, which takes up a lot of space.

>That's a bit high, but it's in your budget.
Well, do you think the other case I mentioned will work just as well as far as cable organization and airflow?

>Are you running this computer on a 24/7 basis?
Not quite 24/7, but like 18 hours out of every day, yeah.

>Are you running this computer on a 24/7 basis?
I was told it's best to get everuthing set up first to see how much room there is and once you know that, then to get the CPU cooler with that in mind

Would this be a good setup?

Are you sure that mixing ram like that is a good idea?

How do i actually generate a link to share for a PC parts picker list?

The link is displayed in the nav bar above the parts list.

the fuck?

>8core amd
>mixed ram
>ram is ddr3 @ 1600mhz
>$100 for 1tb
>430w

>1x8GB + 2x4GB
I don't get you, Isn't going 2x8GB G.Skill cheaper than that?

Hello /pcbg/, please justify my purchase of these components (I'm pretty much set on it but please point out any glaring flaws). The main issue, however, is in which i5 cpu to buy for this system.

pcpartpicker.com/list/4dFTM8

I posted this in the last thread just before it died. How are these parts for a first time build? I'd like to keep the budget under 900 after tax, and this is already pushing it. It's mostly for videogames (Forza Horizon 3 and Halo Wars 2) at 1080p 600hz and maybe 144hz.

I'm aiming for a good base that I can upgrade in the future.

Idk

Actually I bought the 1TB at 69 in a local store, CPU on offer with the MOBO, CPU also in offer (thinking on upgrade it), and RAM on glamazon.

I only have the 2x4 installed

No I am not kidding.

But do I need to have RAM of the same brand so it cannot cause trouble?

Not sure if you're partial towards AMD but at that price I'd take a look at 1060. They should be in the same range.

If you see upgrading in the future, consider looking for a Z170 board rather than an H150. You'll have more luck with CPU upgrades, but at the very least it'll hold value better.

Other than nitpicky things you're good to go.

Samsung UD590

You should be fine with a 470 4gb or a 480 4gb

there is also a hitachi 7200rpm 2tb for around $55 or so? according to this guy

>But do I need to have RAM of the same brand so it cannot cause trouble?
In theory no, not unless you're tweaking voltage and timing but it's not advisable.

Just toss the 2x4 to someone and install a 2x8 and call it a day. RAM is cheap anyway.

Planning on building my first pc in a few weeks. Looking to get a one or two to had and was hoping for some advice on which brand to get.

Some people say seagate will die, others say western digital is a rip off and some say that Hitachi is the cheapest and the best.

Any of you guys know which brand would be best for a UK guy price and reliability wise. I look on Google but 4/5s of the results are just random bullshit about new ones.

I thought Kurisu was the /pcbg/ mascot?

Hitachis are in fact pretty based, but Seagates aren't worth dismissing. They get a really bad wrap because they made some seriously shitty drives that used 1.5TB platters. Their 3TB and 1.5TB disks were shit, their 2TB is alright and their 1TB is pretty good.

WD is somewhere in the middle. Get whatever is cheapest.

Ok, I'll change it for a g. Skill. Ripjaws X or Sniper? Not planning to overclock right now.

fuck im a retard the 7th gen i5 will be out before I even buy this pc

>Maybe it wasn't obvious: I'm doing a dual boot with windows 7 and windows 10. I want windows 10 for dx12 games, but I don't want to have to deal with w10's bullshit, so i'll be using w7 for everything else.

So? Nothing is stopping you from dualbooting them on a single drive.

Thanks user.

Another question about brands. I'm going to get an i5 6600k and a z170 micro at motherboard. Not done any over clocking before but I am going to dabble. My friends got asus hero visit mini its boards I think and say I should get the micro at equivalent. Would I be alright with just getting a normal z170 msi or gigabyte board instead? Is there any real difference other than aesthetics between the brands since they have to meet the same specifications?

Micro atx*
Mini itx*

Sorry, auto correct

OK. Thank you guys for the advice. I'll try a Z170 board instead. I avoided that one hard drive deal since it's from a third-party seller on Amazon. I don't trust them at all.


Thank you for the advice.

Asus hero viii*

For all the talk about how RAID isn't a backup when talking about home servers, I don't think I've ever seen examples of how to properly backup a home server.
I'd love to have a way to clone the drives in the server to identical hard drives in hotswap bays that can be installed in the server and have you back up and running in no time even in the event of a total array failure.

Which is better for a main storage drive, WD Red or Blue?

Just finished this build this week.

What do you guys think?

PCPartPicker part list: au.pcpartpicker.com/list/3n9qRG
Price breakdown by merchant: au.pcpartpicker.com/list/3n9qRG/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($322.00 @ Shopping Express)
Motherboard: Asus SABERTOOTH Z170 S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($345.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: GeIL SUPER LUCE 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($134.98 @ Mwave Australia)
Memory: GeIL SUPER LUCE 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($134.98 @ Mwave Australia)
Storage: Intel 530 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.00 @ CPL Online)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.00 @ Shopping Express)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($658.00 @ PLE Computers)
Case: Thermaltake Core P3 ATX Mid Tower Case ($169.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($220.00 @ CPL Online)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro Full 32/64-bit ($245.00 @ CPL Online)
Other: EK Coolstream PE 120mm Radiator ($64.00)
Other: ID-COOLING 120MM High Static Pressure Fan x 3 ($45.00)
Other: EK FC1070 GTX Plexi/Nickel Nvidia GPU Waterblock ($139.00)
Other: EK DDC 3.25 12V DC Liquid Cooling Pump ($109.00)
Other: EK Supremacy EVO Plexi/Nickel Original CSQ CPU Block ($109.00)
Other: PrimoChill Rigid Tubing ($36.00)
Other: PrimoChill 1/2" Rigid RevolverSX Series Fittings x 18 ($177.00)
Other: Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi Ultra 250 ($79.00)
Total: $3160.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-22 17:37 AEST+1000

How many old men did you have to jerk off to get that much?

0 men, It was actually considerably more after changing parts - originally built in an NZXT s340.

How many men would you jerk off to get out of poverty?

>Power Supply: SeaSonic 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular

Mine makes electric noise which varies in frequency depending on load.
is yours completely silent?

Should be fine, but chipset on that mobo does not allow ddr4 freqs higher than 2133, so you can buy cheaper RAM and get same perf, and i5-6500 have better perf/$ ratio

>want to build mATX
>like the Corsair 350D case
>have to pay 50% more to not get a shitty fucking window in the case

Why.png

I get what you're saying about making sure you have the clearance for the CPU, but the K models don't come with coolers, so if you're worried about space, get a low profile Noctua cooler or something.

Is the Crucial MX300 the best bang for the buck SSD right now or am I missing something?

How long will my computer be good for?

Specs exact:

Dell Optiplex 7010
i5 3470
16GB of RAM
Zotac GTX 970
EVGA 500W PSU
1TB WD Blue & 4TB WD Green

3.5 GiB VRAM is already too low.

I don't care much about gaming anymore...

>PC building general
>This needs a thread


this shit is literally fucking lego blocks to put together and doesn't require a general to talk about

faggots

Aside from newbie advice, some people do it for fun and want to create something more interesting than just pick best bang for the buck parts together for a gaymen build.

pic related, am I missing something, is the build alright, what fans do I buy for the case?

>4 GiB RAM
That is not enough for Firefox these days.

>using firefox

Is 4GB actually enough for mainstream games like overwatch, gta5, ..?

No, Overwatch recommends 6 GiB and GTA5 recommends 8 GiB.

so 8 is a minimum for those kinda games?

Should I bother with IPS or is it just a meme?
Does adaptive sync technology matters when the range is ridiculously low, like 40-60hz?

WD Reds are for NAS and raid and shit like that, not for desktop use. Get a WD Blue instead.

What's the latest meme cpu? Falcon's fullretard abomination of a """site""" doesn't even load anymore.

Wait for Zen

Fuck no, unless it's Q4 2016.

IPS is so much better than TN

So I kinda want to upgrade my GPU (and my fan while I'm at it). Right now I have a radeon HD 6950 + i5 2500k combo.
Should I also upgrade my CPU if I were to upgrade to, say, one of last year's mid-high tier GPUs?

It literally is supposed to be q4 2016 though.
People are saying that it might be delayed to q1 2017, but who knows?
That said if you do wait until q1 2017, kaby lake will be released and you get to see if the new zen and intels actually drop skylake prices.

The first parts are supposed to be released in october, though apparently it might take a while for them to be widely available.

>WD Reds are for NAS and raid and shit like that, not for desktop use
And yet I use a WD Red Pro as a boot drive for my server. Go suck a dick.

Why do you want to buy an outdated card?
Sure you can get it slightly cheaper, but if you have the budget for a new cpu and gpu, why not hold off on the cpu for another year or so and get a nicer $250 modern midrange gpu?
You'll be able to do a lot more in most games, and would only be limited in a few cpu heavy games like cities skylines or civ v.
Plus if you make the right choice you'll have full dx12 and async support for the future, so you can stretch that dollar a lot longer.

Depends what you do. In competitive gaming only situation where the few millisecond faster pixel response times of TN panels compared to IPS type panels are of importance, you might want to consider a TN. Or in the case your budget is extremely limited, TN generally has the cheapest options. A good TN also has pretty nice contrast ratio and doesn't have that IPS glow on dark content. Depending on the TN panel, the limited viewing angles might be much bigger issue here. And TN panels are only good for viewing perpendicular to the display.

If by adaptive sync you mean G-Sync/Freesync etc, it's amazing at content which requires precision and fast mouse action e.g. games. For non-gaming use it's meaningless.

If you have the money to spare sure. Getting a better GPU is far more important at video game performance and that 2500k is still no a slouch. I'm assuming your build is mainly for games.

How often do you power down and reboot your server?


That said I wouldn't buy a WD drive right now.
Their product lineup is noticably lacking in the higher tb capacity unless you go for their 5400rpm drives, or overpay.

Seagate and similar 3tb drives can be had for around $90 or sometimes even less.
There is no reason to pay >$50 for a 1tb HDD nowadays, and even $50 is a far worse $/GB than 3-4tb HDDs.

>How often do you power down and reboot your server?
Once a month for dust maintenance.
>Their product lineup is noticably lacking in the higher tb capacity unless you go for their 5400rpm drives, or overpay.
This is true. My HGST Deskstar NAS drives are much better value than the now over-priced WD Red Pros.

CHALLENGE ME

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/4tyfd6

Fight my...champion?
I feel so bad for people who have to overpay for a gpu that is already overpriced.

The only things I'd say about your build is that you only have 240gb total storage, which will make it hard to store all of your games and programs on it at once, let alone media files,
and that I personally would not trust a corsair psu, though the fact that it is 80+ rated and modular is nice.
You'll probably be fine, but I would recommend additional storage.

Gsync and free sync do less and less when your monitor and fps are unbalanced. Like a high ass Hz and low fps, or high ass fps and low Hz, sync won't help you. It does best when the fps and Hz are similar but far enough apart to cut into each other
There is none, all CPUs are good now and no CPUs are mindblowing

thx senpai

pcpartpicker.com/list/F6JVFd

Looking for a Z170 chipset motherboard for this build.

Going to be making my first build soon, should i buy an ssd or an hdd first? I'm going to end uo buying the other but im excited to finish this so im trying to see what i can put together firt

ssd. if you get anywhere with the build you may as well put your os on it

You'll want the OS on the SSD anyway, so get that first.

pcpartpicker.com/user/Erickazo99/saved/K3dCJx
Here is my build, have been posting it over and over again on the pcbg threads. I already own the tower, fan, and a gtx 560ti that i'm going to use in the mean time before i get the other gpu. How is it looking?

thanks Cred Forumsuys

Get 32 GiB RAM for future proofing.

Don't get 32GB RAM lol. Drop the cooler and just use stock.

Already own the cooler, and yeah I figured kek

pcpartpicker.com/list/LWWXRG

pls rate

Also, buying windows or pirating?

Buddy is letting me use his key

help me Cred Forumsuys. is this build any good for the price? I have a lot of hard drives so I needed a PSU and a motherboard that support them all. Have not decided on the CPU cooler yet. As to the GPU: not a gaymer anymore so I'll just put an old card in I have lying around (9800gx2, 8800 ultra or something...)

What's your budget?
Replace the 2133 RAM with 3000, should cost about the same and if you can afford, get a 1070 instead of the 1060. Otherwise it's a nice build.

Is this good for 1440p gaymen?
pcpartpicker.com/list/VKjcxY

Well here's where I am right now.
I pulled everything out of the case after getting caught on a boot cycle.
I put my MoBo on a cardboard box, plugged in my ram, gpu, and psu cables. My CPU and CPU cooler is already installed.
Still stuck on boot cycle.
Me and my friends who helped put it together assume it was the ram, we had a really hard time getting it to fit and the glue around the metal we used to hold it seem to be wearing out, but we don't know for sure.
The MoBo lights up and the fan powers, we have no way of testing for a sound for an error code.
Right now im waiting on sending it to a professional, he's a family friend of my step dads and he hooked me up with him so I might be able to find the problem for free.
For now its sitting in the corner all boxed up.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Vp4PFd

Any ideas?

How many sticks of ram do you have? Try one at a time.

Check the CPU pins, you can bend them if you're not careful.

Also double check that you don't have a random screw wedged in somewhere and shorting stuff.

I have 2 sticks. We fucked up at first with the pattern but fit it right the next time.
We haven't done anything with the cpu since it was already covered in thermal paste and a giant ass aftermarket cooler.
No matter where we put the ram sticks we couldn't get it to work.
My motherboard manual also doesn't tell you where to put the ram if you only have one stick.
And screw we know we don't have for sure because we disassembled everything.

>We haven't done anything with the cpu since it was already covered in thermal paste and a giant ass aftermarket cooler.
Yeah but you can still take it out and check the pins. Didn't you have to take it out of a box and plug it in?

Try the sticks in isolation, if one is bad, this will tell you.

Alright thats the only thing I can think of that I haven't tried. I'll run one stick through all 4 slots once at a time and see if I can get through.
We also had the thought that since it was so hard to get it in, the ram itself could have easily just not been in the whole time. But I dunno we took the ram in and out several times but I have yet to take one through the ports 1 at a time.
So ill see after I get home from work

It's about 1000 €.
The gtx 1060 costs 275 €, the 1070 around 450 €. Is it really worth. I am not going to play on 4k, just a single monitor.

Would a GTX 1060 6GB be good for a dual monitor set up?

I took the comments from the previous build. used a new case. upped my ram from the 2800 to 3000. different thermal paste. picked a better cooler ( at least reviews wise it its a much loved cpu cooler ) and i believe i have a build that is pretty solid. Not sure on the motherboard though but people seem to love it and it supports what im goin for. Will take any suggestions but i really want that gpu and monitor. Im in love with them.


pcpartpicker.com/list/MLCyWX

Depends on your games, but if you're on a tight budget, go with the 1060 6G, but see if you can swap the RAM to 3000.

Nothing against the EVO + Artic Silver, but with your budget you might as well get a Noctua NH-D15 and replace the 18$ Corsair fans with Noctua ones. I assume money is no problem for you?

sort of. im spoiling my self with this build but im trying to keep it all around $2.5k. thats the keyboard and mice included. I hit that sweetspot here. I'll look into the better fans though. i was thinking of putting 2 on top and 2 on bottom but im thinking that may be over kill and instead just do one each. It already has 2 140mms in front of the case and another 140 in the back. i'll be back with a new list though. i'll look into that paste. after all i shouldn't skimp on paste. I won't be ordering it till mid october or so. so im always editing this thing and learning as i go.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Dx6spb

i looked into the fans but nothing i found was silent and thats big for me right now. All i am nervous about now is if the noctua cooler you suggested is too big for my board. I've read conflicts with ram not fitting because of it. Thats the only thing that makes me nervous.

how can i tell if the cooler will play nice with my mobo and ram and others? I do like that its crazy good and silent but is it really leaps above the Evo cooler+artic silver combo i was doing?

Drop the additional fans, EVO and thermal, get a bigger and better cooler, Noctua NH-D15 is excellent. If you want you can add case fans later on, but that shouldn't be that necessary, i guess.

There won't be a conflict, Noctua heatsinks have extra space for RAM and in your case Corsair LPX doesn't have huge heatspreaders, you'll be fine.
> is it really leaps above the Evo cooler+artic silver combo
Hell yes, the NH-D15 is one of the air coolers that get's to liquid cooling temps.

How is my setup lads? Is there anything I'm spending too much on?

rate my cart

Another thing, do you plan getting more than 1 GPU and do you have many HDDs to fit into the case? If not, i suggest you get a mid tower instead of a full tower, that will save you space and a few bucks.

>spending £90 on a non-mechanical keyboard
I'd say that qualifies as spending too much. For just a little more, you should be able to get a decent mechanical one.

>EVO + AS 5 to save money
>but buys 4x Noctua case fan
That's like driving a Prius because muh eco, but fueling it with shell V-power Ultimate.
Also.. M50X are shit.

Reminder that Noctua fans are overrated and overpriced.

See

pcpartpicker.com/list/nJyXRG
I feel like Im forgetting something.

>Socket 2011
I'd like to see a benchmark on 1151, because where i usually look the NH-D15 excells.

not goin for more gpus but i do plan to add HDD drives later. I also wanted a full tower because it is easier for a first time builder like me to work with. I will be dropping the extra fans from the list though that was suggested earlier. I may add another gpu though. never know i may go for it and wanted a case that allowed me a lot of options. So i plan to keep the case. Also it has easier cable management room for a rookie like me.

Recommendations senpai?
No case fans then?

>inb4 get Seinheiser HD558
Nty.

Sounds reasonable, have fun building your first PC.

You can get case fans, but 4 is overkill and there are cheaper options which i unfortunately forgot the name of. I think in the last thread there was a discussion about them.
Regarding the keyboard. Get a mechanical one and don't look back. CM makes some good and cheap boards, if you want better models, visit /mkg/.
Oh and do yourself a favour, get rid of the M50X.

DT770/880/990, M40X, X2, HD558, HD598, SHP9500, AKG712/702, etc. etc. etc.
There's a TON of better headphones than those disgusting M50X.

ok so I changed some things a bit. here's my build, please rate / give recommendations

Will consider senpai. Thanks btw.
Noob question, but what's so bad about them? Soundstage and overpowering bass?

>Now everyone can see the semen I've accumulated

Where's the graphics card?

I'm this guy tl;dr: I don't need one

>not a gaymer anymore
why are you getting a k cpu then?
do you need the i7 for hyperthreading or would you be fine with i5?

0/10
missing dildos

Okay, but why the i7k then? Are you doing something that actually justifies it?
What are you doing with this build? It's massive overkill if you're just looking for a web browsing machine.

Should I buy a 1440 monitor or
headphones and mic
or
a pair of jbl 305?


Atm I have a 1070, hyper x cloud and some shitty logitech speakers

M50X are an over-priced stupid meme shilled by redditors, even M40X beat them.
Watch this, the guy pretty much nails 95% of it. youtu.be/7UrKy1EuO0k
To put is simple, there are much better options for the same or even lower price that aren't mud cannons.

>Recommendations senpai?
You might want to ask the /mkg/ for those. I have Logitech g710 with cherry mx blues myself and it's a lot better than any rubberdome keyboard I've tried once you get used to it. Got it for only 80€, but that was when it was for sale.

I need processing power for simulations and calculations. Hobby programmer but my college major is Computational Science and we do a lot of CPU intense stuff there. Thus, I'm planning to get a k in order to overclock it. Right now I'm on a 3770 with 8GB DDR3 but it's really tedious.

>simulations and calculations
what about xeon? doesnt mutithreaded processing scale better than just increasing clock speed?

For that sort of stuff you might want to consider going for a 5820k/6800k instead. Costs only a little more and you get 6cores/12threads to play with.

Ok, I'll look into that. Thanks for the tips guys!

I want to buy gtx 1070 but how long should I wait till I get a good discount?

I have my eyes on the dual cooler model from ASUS: amazon.com/gp/product/B01JHQSZ40/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

do you recommend triple cooler gigabyte model better? or something else? ty

sure thing. i get where you're coming from, i took a computer architecture class and we benchmarked various cpus and the xeons always came out on top in pipeline efficiency and ops per second. we never tested any oc'd cpus so im not sure how that stacks up but if you can find a comparably priced xeon check the benchmarks and see which would be better.

M50s are shit though
Like that's just a poor choice on your end

The cheapest
The newest generation of nvidia JewTX cards is so efficient it barely even needs fans

Overwatch and GTAV are completely different kinds of games from a hardware usage perspective.

esports tier (overwatch, league, dota2) you should have 8gb ram

AAA tier (GTAV, MGSV, etc) you should have as a minimum 8gb. I have 16

nice to hear. I'll go for dual fan model then. I believe more ppl want 3 fan models.

I hope I can get an online deal soon : (

My Gigabyte G1 RX 470 is in passive mode a lot of the time.

Gonna be a while before you can get one for less than $400.

If you don't have a decent headset, get that. Otherwise monitor, because your 1070 is going to waste.

Need 250GB SSD
Don't need cooler, stock is fine

>iPad
You're that "4K is my only requirement" faggot aren't you? Get lost moron

Is Arctic MX-4 the best thermal paste? Never built a pc before so I don't know if there's a go to option

Decided on a Corsair STRAFE with Cherry MX Brown switches. Thanks breh.

I recently upgraded to 3 screens and my asynchronous 7870+7850 setup just isn't capable enough anymore.

Should I stay a good little Sapphire fanboy and buy two Sapphire RX480 OC 8GB?
Or should I become a good little goy and buy a 1070 or 1080?
Or should I attempt to get another 7870 and run TriCrossfire?

tl;dr
what's best
>2x Sapphire RX480 OC 8GB
>1x GTX1070
>1x GTX1080
>3rd HD7870

They're not utter shit, but they're massively overrated meme tier cans.

I'd say 1070, but if you wait a little while you could get the 1080Ti or a Vega

What are some older cpus that can perform as well as modern ones?

please respond

Not worth buying an old CPU unless you've already got an old mobo

Doesn't matter really. If you buy a cooler they'll give you paste, and the stock coolers come with paste or pre applied paste. I use Arctic Silver

I'm quite interested in the vega, but I we don't really have a release date yet, right?

Within 6mo. Kinda a long wait if you need something now, which is why I suggested the 1070, which is capable.

Haswell is ~5% slower than Skylake for the most part. Older than that and you have to start overclocking to match the performance. Sandy Bridge is starting to show its age, and anything older than that isn't even close.

We are on two different pages then. I wasn't exaggerating, personally

I would hope nearly decade old tech starts showing its age sooner or later
But of course there's still overclocked 2500's holding up just fine

pcpartpicker.com/list/f8vnpb
$1k budget build coming through.

Get a 250GB SSD. 120 is just embarrassing, and too small form more than two installed AAA games.

Wow that's basically my exact $1200 build
Except you got a cheaper PSU and I got an expensive meme2 SSD

I need:
Ssd
Raid5 storage
Xeon, ecc (ideally e5 v2 or better)
At least 36 GB ram
Dual 4k output

Output, not ved gem, just display at 4k 60hz

Well, lemmie put it this way:

Willl it be possible to set the whole thing, and to install the OS's and all that without the CPU cooler put on, and then as soon as that's done, turn it off and do research and get one then, or will it just instantly overheat the moment it gets turned on without one?

noticed my gpu running stupid hot so i took it apart and the thermal paste on the heat sink is like solidified and hard. card is close to 2 years old or so(r9 290x). does thermal paste do this? should i put a fresh dab on it?

Yes of course. The newer Intel CPU's (Skylake and upcomming Kaby Lake) are designed to retain a functional thermal interface even without a cooler.
Only in case you want to OC you'll need a cooler. The certified Intel cooler the K variants come with will be enough to OC beyond 4.5GHz.

Yes, clean using rubbing alcohol and reapply paste. But make sure the heatsink and fans are clean and actually spinning at all and fast enough

>the thermal paste on the heat sink is like solidified and hard. card is close to 2 years old
Cheap thermal paste doesn't last in its prime for more than 9 months, a year if you're lucky. It sucks because a lot of AIB makers will void your warranty if you pull that cooler off, but at least you don't have to worry about that.
There are certain thermal pastes that work particularly well/last longer at higher temperatures than consistently well at all temperatures (like Arctic Silver). I'd look for those or a liquid metal paste if you never plan on removing that cooler again.

>to install the OS's and all that without the CPU cooler put on
No. Your CPU will hit its thermal safety probably within minutes of booting up. >retain a functional thermal interface
You're either a troll or a moron. That heatspreader and the TIM beneath it isn't at all suited for keeping the CPU on without additional cooling. Skylake's TIM can only dissipate approximately 15W of heat on its own. Just keeping the CPU on for a few minutes will exceed and overwhelm it.

The FX-83XX series still holds up well.

Agreed, but of course you wouldn't suggest that anyone buy and 8350 and an AM3+ mobo at this point. This is coming from someone running a 6350

What are my options when it comes to low-noise HDDs? Do lower RPMs perform worse than higher RPMs? This is just going to be a storage drive I save my chinese cartoons to.

Okay, then given the parts i've said, what's the best CPU cooler you know of that you would be 99.99% confident would fit without issues?

Cooler Master Hyper 212
There is a reason why they sell so goddamn well.

Should I buy a pair of Micca mb42x and a amp
Or
Should I save an buy a pair of 305

I just listen to music, gaymz and anime

>install the OS
I wouldn't risk that

...

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/G6cKpb

Thoughts and feelings?

Don't see anything wrong really.

pcpartpicker.com/list/j8GGJV
How'd I do?

Might want to go with 2x4 sticks and an SFX power supply, because it's going to be tight with an ATX power supply.

pcpartpicker.com/list/8vBb2R

pcpartpicker.com/list/vsdXRG

and my monitor is a samsung s22c300
An user helped me with this a couple days ago. I'm set right? I'm just looking up info on what these parts do until I can order them. Anything else I should be worried about?

Looks good.

My build is on bootloop right now.
What are some basic tips and things I should look for when troubleshooting my build?
I was here earlier, the ram guy
I'm heading home to try it right now but what else should I keep in mind ?

Looking at two different CPUs for a upgrade.

I'm looking at virtualizing "heavily". I'm using this build to play some games through PCI passthrough and programming in VS through the same VM.

The question would be, is a 5820K/6800K worth it over the 6700K? We're talking $180-210 difference here for the extra two cores and L3 cache due to the different socket requiring another motherboard.

>I'm using this build to play some games through PCI passthrough and programming in VS through the same VM.
I'd go with more cores, although an i7 would not be my first choice. Just a note, no matter how efficient a Type 1 Hypervisor is, you will never get close to 90% of the total performance on the GPU in a PCIe passthrough operating in a bare-metal virtualized system. Overclocking both the CPU and GPU might be necessary in order to compensate, but both MUST be done on the physical system level, not the virtualized system. It is the physical hardware that you need to modify, thus using a software overclocking tool like MSI Afterburner might not work in a PCI passthrough.

Thank you for your input.

I'm aware of the disadvantages of doing the passthrough as I have performed the setup on a different build. That one uses a 6700K which works fine and performance inside the guest is very good. However the host is getting starved by CPU pinning most of the virtual cores (7/8) to the VM which is why my I believe those two extra cores could help with stabilizing both the host and guest in terms of utilizing both of them.

I'll most likely go with the X99 then. I'll need to shill out some extra bucks for it, but I also believe that it will give stability to the tasks.

What do you mean "bootloop"

Drop down to i5-6500 or even i3-6100. Drop the cooler.
Switch mobo to H110 or H170
Get a 250GB SSD
Don't buy 1.5 or 3TB HDDs, they fail. Just get a 2TB or a 4TB HGST.
Get a bigger used monitor of craigslist. 21" is tiny (is that you in the other thread?)

I have an RX480 8GB, but I've come into a wee bit of money lately.

Do I buy a second RX480 or sell the one and buy a 1070?

Pair it down to as little variables as possible.

On Cardboard, CPU and a single stick of ram, single hdd, don't use a button to start it, jump the pins. I had a jammed reset button cause a bootloop.

Monitor?

For testing peripherals of course.... But as far as components go the fewer the better.

Although you may want to try as few powered accessories as possible, ie a basic keyboard and mouse not some RGB monstrosities.

When testing you need as little variables and possible, then slowly add points of failure in until you find what does it.

Yeah thats what im testing right now. Doing the singular ram. I had everything pulled down to just the MoBo and im just gonna check on the ram slots now.

No I meant what monitor do you have, dumbass. RE: your graphics card choice

monoprice.com/product?p_id=13808

should I stop looking at pc stuff until black friday sales?

Personally I'd say the single card solution will always be better. And I don't know how much you bought that 480 for, but you can still sell it for most of its cost.

I hear suckin' dicks is paying quite well despite the stagnant economy. Might want to invest in some strawberry chapstick for some added payback.

I'd also check out any 6 core Xeon E5s, either a V3 or V4 for the 2011-v3 socket. They might be cheaper and have more features, but fuck me are the C612 boards expensive.

Just figure out what you want. Some things won't drop in price, like the 4TB HGST that I just bought for $110. Also be warned that manufacturers make cut down, crappy black friday models of TVs, etc.

I am choosing a 1080 card, is there any custom card that performs a bit better than the others and is still pretty silent?I had to bring back the Strix I got because of the coil whine.

The MSI Gaming Z is really good.

PC WORLD / Currys Gift Card

5045075660017505521
Pin = 0562

£29 Left

Nigga, I've been buying parts for years and you've literally just missed the period where you save the most for consumer desktop parts.
Any time between the months of May and August is when prices tend to dip the most, mainly due to the announcement and release schedules of major computer components (motherboards, CPUs, and GPUs). Particularly towards the end of spring and the middle of July is when prices come down dramatically for a day or two as flash sales to clear out inventory to make way for the new release schedule. For example, I bought an ASUS wifi PCIe card (the one with the triple antenna) for just $60 with a $10 rebate on top of that this July. Right now, that thing goes for nearly $100 and on Black Friday last year, it only went down to $70 or $80.

Black Friday these days is a marketing ploy to attract dimwits and non-savvy shoppers by listing the original MSRP and marking it off with a sale price the item had since the beginning of the year. They just put a bigger SALE! sticker on it to make you feel like you've saved your money. The real savings comes from retailers getting desperate to clear out warehouse space for new product lines.

Worth the wait then. Skylake already has well known critical issues, kaby lake is probably going to be a crapshoot in many ways. I'm willing to wait no longer than christmas time, but if it's there on time, it's almost guaranteed I'll pick it up.

Is this a good build? The main thing I'm having trouble deciding on is CPU, I'm not familiar with the new stuff at all. Please rate and call me a retard

What's the best shoebox case?

A shoe box.

Supposedly, modern HGST have a fuckhigh failure rate.
And what about WD browns? They seem to be pretty solid, are available at 7200rpm, and are only marginally more expensive than other drives.

>AMD FX
>320GB HDD
Nigga what?

2x 480 >= 1x 1080 >>>> 1x 1070 >= 1x rx480
3x anything = into the trash it goes.

I've got 4tb of other drives already

If you have nothing but greentext then don't reply to me or my son again

Do need an hdd for boot? I tried with an ssd before and still got nothing. Although I didn't do the one ram stick test with it in.
I just haven't pulled out my hdd yet and i don't know if its mandatory for boot or not.

Are there any improvements over the Gaming X or they just changed the shape and led a bit?

>FX9590
>gamung mobo
>1600 ram
>320gb 7200rpm hdd

yeh, all good user

Thrash that buil and get an iMac, suits retards like you.

>greentext is a sign you know what you're talking about

when does it expire?

memelord

thinly veiled apple shill

>modern HGST have a fuckhigh failure rate
First I've heard of that. WD has been getting hit hard in the customer reviews on Amazon and Newegg, that's something you can actually see over the course of time (after filtering out all the stupid comments like "this drive arrived in -20 degree weather and the drive'd dead so WD is THE WORST MANUFACTURER EVER"), most of the issue seems to be that the Blue (formerly Green) drive spindles fail alarmingly fast based on the sheer consistency of the complaints.

HGST's complaints can mostly be attributed to poor shipping (99% of the DOA complaints can be attributed to abused shipping conditions like bad weather, water exposure, angry mailmen, etc), but I don't see a trend indicating a particular persistent and consistent issue.

Same thing with the last gen Seagate models, most of the serious complaints seem to lack a consistent issue that points to a major design flaw. Toshiba's older drive had a similar trend as WD does right now with spindle and head crashes, but their latest models (excluding the E300 because no one seems to have bought one) don't have that trend either.

No, don't get that CPU. The TDP on that thing is insane. Clock for clock Intel beats AMD.

If you're gaming at 1080p 60Hz you want an i3-6100 and an H110 mobo.

Also drop that HDD and get an SSD.

>tell him to buy a product for retards
>tell him he's a retard
>lol ur shill
Is there any specific term for your condition or is it just your autism?

SSDs are a meme.

Only a shill gets this upset at being called a shill

Not mandatory for post / getting into BIOS, but obviously you're not getting into Windows without the boot drive attached. Seems like you don't know wtf you're doing. Go watch some videos.

>modern HGST have a fuckhigh failure rate.
Proof? I heard it went up slightly from the approximately 0.2% that it was.

Who invited you? And they aren't.

t. SSD user who will never go back to booting or playing games from a HDD

Nice bait dude, I can't wait until this meme goes viral!

Well I know I need it to run windows nigga damn.
All I need right now is to get into bios.

It really is
/pcag/ - PC Assembly General

>dat buyer's remorse
Delicious!

What point are you trying to make here? That it's simple as shit and any old dumbass can do it? Because no one denies that. I fucking hate neo-Cred Forums.

Is this the build that satisfies you memelords?

I asked this in the general questions thread, but I guess it makes more sense here.

Is a RAID 10 with six drives viable? Does an affordable RAID 10 card exists with six+ ports? I have six extra drive slots in my case, and I'd like to fill them.

I'm crying all the way to Newegg to buy another.

me do good ? first build

blackblaze lists the 4tb drive at over 1% failure rate.
However I'm going by newegg reviews: shittons of complaints about massive bad sector counts or complete failure within a few days of use.

No
>Either downgrade the CPU to the i5-6500 or get a Z170 Motherboard
>Get a air cooler
>Don't get a Mini ITX board if you have an ATX case
>Get 32 GiB RAM
>Get a bigger SSD
>Either get the RX 470 for less money or the Fury for a bit more money than the GTX 1060
>Get a better PSU

>K processor
>H110
God you are tech illiterate as fuck.

looks aight for a first build

speccy pls

You could try telling me what the fuck that means so I can learn it myself so I can be like you and smugly know things while not telling people

I don't want to play video games, I just want to use madVR with some nice settings.
What do you recommend? I haven't found many builds centered on playing high quality videos.

...

>890$ for this bottleneck pile of dog shit
kek

You're trying too hard for that le ebin oldschool reddit gold awards here

2/10 you're a retard.

We are not spoond-feeding illiterate autists like you on here. Cred Forums is not your personal tech support you fucking cunt. Get on Google and do your research.

Then change the thread to "three faggots circlejerk about their le epic oldschool builds they won't talk about"

here
Sorry, what I meant is should I prioritize the CPU or the GPU? I read you can use both depending on how you configure madvr. Is that true? If I'm on a small budget, should I just ditch the GPU?

I'd really love to try a new chassis when upgrading despite having a perfectly good (and possibly better) one.

I just really want to try one of those ITX cube style PCs...

Cucknadian here. Any way to save money on this build? Prices here are absolute shit. Already have a 480 so no need for a graphics card.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/4fKBqk

6600k
z170 pro gaming
gtx 1070 gigabyte
16gb 3200 cl16 ram
600cx corsair power
noctua nh12 something cooler
500gb ssd, samsung 850 evo
1tb of old ass hdd

Instead of getting angry nobody is helping your stupid ass, go to reddit, nigga.

Shit, here, I'll save you the trouble of googling
reddit.com/r/buildapc

But you're so knowledgeable and oldschool, why can't you help someone so stupid in little effort? is it because you actually LARP and don't know what you're talking about?

Is it finally time to upgrade my gt 640 or can I keep it hobbling along?

He's being pedantic about the difference between assembling and building

Good god, there are lots of problems with this build.
Biggest is that you got DDR3 and your mobo may not even support that. Get 2133MHz DDR4
You picked a K CPU and your mobo doesn't support overclocking. Drop to i5-6500 and forget the cooler. (Stock is fine.)
Your mobo is mini-ITX and you have a full ATX tower.
PSU is slightly overpowered, go for 450 or 500.

I can only imagine how much trouble you're going to have assembling the PC if fuck up that bad picking parts.

That PSU is overkill wattage wise.

If its just a meme machine for gaymin you can drop down by 70 bucks.

640 is shit, was shit and will be shit. Any nvidia card under a 50 series is trash. To give you an idea, a 450 out paces the 640 in everyway.

No that's not good. If you want a gaming rig, then you need to buy gaming hardware. Link below is a mid tier affordable gaming rig for 1080p games. My friend is very, very satisfied with it.
Intel Gaming G3420 Processor with integrated auto OC up to 4.4GHz
Top-notch water cooling
ASUS Gaming mobo
Gskill Gaming RAM with extreme low latency
SSD for faster loading screens
Best mid-tier GPU RX480
Nice and clean Tt case
Sufficient and cheap PSU
I also added a blue-ray player in case you want it
See here: pcpartpicker.com/list/2z7TM8

>I can only imagine how much trouble you're going to have assembling the PC if fuck up that bad picking parts.


nigga all you do it put the shit in the slots or put some screws on or organize some wires

that is leagues easier than knowing all the details of all the thousands of recent hardware releases

>thousands
Nothing's fucking happening outside of refreshes and marketing.

There's nothing "top notch" about an H110i GT.

I bought a HMS5C4040ALE640 for $110 from newegg
backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-q1-2015/
0.8% failure rate, way better than any other manufacturer

You didn't even notice that he had DDR3 m8. Also suggesting 32GiB? GTFO

$850 for a low tier PC? Naw m8

>nigga all you do it put the shit in the slots or put some screws
Yeah no. Have fun forgetting the mobo standoffs frying everything

>he will bend the pins

Get an i3-6100. Nearly matches the i5 in benchmarks

Look at the benachmarks, it's literally on top.

Low tier? This is a good and affordable gaming rig with high quality gaming parts.

Not when compared to real water cooling, it isn't.
It might be on top of the low-tier AIOs, but that's hardly an accomplishment.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/NMV74C
How2fix? Trigger warning: cucknadian prices.

>affordable gaming rig with high quality gaming parts
If you'd said gaming less you might have gotten me

You had to go and spoil the fun.

>4K monitor
>RX480
For what purpose?

I'm literally asking you.

Because I'll be able to use this monitor for the next 50 years, and you don't need a good GPU to profit from increased workspace or to watch 4k videos. Beside, it's literally cheaper than 2k monitors.
The 480 is more of a holdover until something non-shit comes around anyway.

ARE YOU NOT ENTERTAINED

Who the fuck uses something, anything, continuously for 50 years?

>I'll be able to use this monitor for the next 50 years
I mean you could, but really you're going to want 4K >100Hz HDR Freesync. 4K isn't here yet.

Going back to your build, you don't have an SSD. They're great, get a cheap 250GB with a good warranty. Your i5 is locked, so it's not really futureproof at all. An i3 will serve you just as well, and you can upgrade later to an i7 when it's worth it. Too much RAM, 8GB is plenty even in 2016.

Swap to 4GB 470 and get a 450W PSU that is at least bronze. You should spend at least $40 on it

I think we've finally got something here

The monitor I'm currently using is 20 years old. I could continue using it since it shows no sign of fucking up.
My hard drive is 10 years old (it's a 500GB seagate HDD). Likewise, it is still in pretty much perfect health.
Then there are much more obvious components like case (mine is 20 years old, but I'm having noise issues which seem to be related to the case itself).
Outside pure computer components, my desk is something like 35 years old.
All you have to do is not be a nigger with your shit.

>4K isn't here yet.
So is there an actual noticeable quality difference between a 2K and 4K screen both running at a 2K resolution, for instance?

>Your i5 is locked, so it's not really futureproof at all.
I actually plan to wait for the zen to put a CPU on there. I want something with IOMMU support, though. Don't the intel K-series have it disabled?
>An i3 will serve you just as well
That's also an option.
>8GB is plenty even in 2016.
Fuck no it ain't. I already have 16GB. I'm buying another 16GB because of DDR4. I know how much I use and I would sooner go for 32GB than go a single GB under 16.

I don't see what I would gain from an SSD. It's not like I reboot every 5 seconds. In normal operations, CPU and internet speed are my usual bottlenecks. I don't use programs that take even half a second to open more than a couple of times a year.
Even for videogames, it's doubtful it would be particularly beneficial. For online games, you're as slow as the slowest person to connect, which is usually a function of internet speed. For offline games, I am not aware of a game that takes more than a few seconds to load a massive area in 2016, and it's not like 250GB will hold many games in the first place.

Is there a mid tower case that

>fits a 160mm cooler
>fits a 300mm GPU without removing drive cages
>is under $50

The last one I'm flexible on but I'd prefer not to go over by too much. I looked at the Deepcool Tesseract but it won't ship from Amazon for 2-5 weeks for some reason, even though it's "In Stock."

>that software
Wrong build buddy

What's the purpose of your build? I tried to ask earlier, and you didn't say.

You'll love an SSD though. Not getting one in 2016 at least as a boot drive is just sad.

>downgraded his graphics card for a few bucks when his motherboard costs $90
keked

Did I do it lads?

>fits a 160mm cooler
Any case that can fit a 140mm fan at the rear should be able to fit the largest air cooler on the market
>fits a 300mm GPU without removing drive cages
Any case that's more than 16 inches long with removable drive cages should be able to fit that
>is under $50
Non-windowed case.

>finally got all needed parts for my pc
>put everything together
>moment of truth, press power button
>nothing happens
>panic: 10%
>take the 24 pin connector out and try the clip trick to see if its dead
>its alive and kicking
>start suspecting if its the mobo's fault
>connect everything again, press power button
>nothing still happens
>panic: 30%
>remember seeing somone at a local computer store uses screw driver to touch the 2 power pins to power on mobo
>try that
>it works
>realize without the front panel, I mistake the power button for the reset button and was just pressing the latter the whole time

Anyway I havent gotten a monitor yet, but if the cpu fan continuously spins it pretty much is working right?

>that build
>running that software
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

pcpartpicker.com/list/9TjpKZ

>10$ Zalman cooler
There are better ways to throw away 10$, like.. just burn it or wipe your ass with it.

Because you can do it yourself.

>i3
>70$ cooler
>AIO cooler
Why

asrock.com/microsite/hyper/
That's why

>plastic shit everywhere catching dust

...

Considering getting another ssd for gaymes. Any recommendations? I was considering a m.2 just for some of the more heavily modded games but damn they're expensive. Samsung's 950 pro is the fastest ive seen but $350 for 512gb. Hyperx would be my next choice at 290$ for 480gb. And then I recently saw the Intel 600p which is $200 for 512gb and has faster read speeds than the hyperx but lower write speeds which wouldn't mean much for gaymes.

Anyone have any experience with intels m.2s? 200 for 512gb and a 5 year warranty seems like a good deal

>
>missing the essential points
This is the only motherboard that can still overclock any Intel CPU
They even make a version for Xeon E3 boards so you can overclock those as well.
asrock.com/mb/Intel/Fatal1ty E3V5 Performance GamingOC/

>gaymur shit motherboard
Let me guess, you think by buying an over-priced, shitty gaymen mobo you will achieve better performance and OC your CPU?
Not going to happen. You might as well spend your money on a 5L jar of nutella and buy a laptop. You are not fit for technology.

>OC your CPU
With an external clock generator, yes. No need to deal with a microcode update that locks the system clock generator when you can circumvent the system entirely.
>You are not fit for technology.
Clearly you're the one that's not fit for technology.

Purpose is watching films, browsing Cred Forums, and programming foremost, with the occasional vidya (typically older games, with about one modern title per 2 years or so) with VGA passthrough.
I also have lots of dosh, although I hate to waste it outright.

Is this good enough for what it needs to be? (filename)

>2016
>dual core
>thinking that Intel will allow this longterm
>not buying a standard mobo + cheap i5
>16GB 3466 for 110 fucking dollar
I hope throwing away your money like this will at least give you some kind of joy, maybe you habe a fetish for shit like this?

logicalincrements.com/games/wow

Woah buddy I'm not trying to give her that much power.

>thinking that Intel will allow this longterm
Intel stopped BCLK overclocking on every single Skylake-compatible motherboard with microcode updates back in March. It already happened, which is why you probably haven't heard of the HYPER series. ASRock is deliberately not marketing them in the hopes of staying low-key enough not to piss off Intel, but also to sell enough of their remaining boards that they stockpiled before Intel told them not to market those boards. No joke, Intel forced all board makers to step in line with their demands and forced all board makers to add their microcode disabling BCLK adjustments on their non-K CPUs, but only ASRock jumped the gun and made too many boards to simply scrap.
Once they're gone, they're gone. No more BCLK on any LGA-1151 CPU (even Kaby Lake support is getting added to the HYPER board's BIOS updates, so we'll see if they can also get BCLK adjustments on those boards).

>Intel forced all board makers to step in line with their demands
>Kaby Lake will only support Windows 10
>Jews doing their business as usual
Well, colour me suprised, never saw that one comming..

Guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle.

Parts have been shipping today, and when I noticed I got my Samsung 750 EVO SSD, I realized that moving all the data off my laptop HDD to my SSD is going to be a bit tough.

Can i clone/make an image of my current Laptop HDD to a partition on my external drive then boot from that partition on the drive?

Running windows 7 for reference.

Wait, wait guys-

Is it possible I could use an ethernet cable to move my shit onto the SSD?

>Can i clone/make an image of my current Laptop HDD to a partition on my external drive then boot from that partition on the drive?
>Running windows 7 for reference

Just make a usb with linux and boot to that and do whatever you want. You can even just copy it over the network if you want. Cloning a partition you're running from is usually difficult, you're more likely to just be able to copy files.

But you don't want a desktop running off your laptop's OS anyway, all the drivers and shit are different. Reinstall on your desktop, clone the laptop drive for backup purposes and then copy files from the clone as desired.

Again, use a linux USB and just rsync the files across your wlan.

>But you don't want a desktop running off your laptop's OS anyway, all the drivers and shit are different
I know that much, I'm willing to go through and reinstall drivers and such.

And I REALLY don't feel like trying to install windows 7again.

Much power? Your build will result in a massive lagfest in any densy populated area and 25 man raids / bgs.

I probably should've also mentioned I'm trying to make my new PC the gaming PC and the leave the lappy for work.

>/pcbg/ - PC Building General
>Not actually an anime edition.
>>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
>pcpartpicker.com
>>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
>logicalincrements.com/
>>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
>pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL
>>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
>wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC
>Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.
>Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.
>If you see any other build advice or part list threads, please politely direct them here.
>Last one here: →
>Much power? Your build will result in a massive lagfest in any densy populated area and 25 man raids / bgs.
He means giving his sister the power to choose her own pc. If she gets independence then she might not be his waifu.

New thread at:

This build is so wrong in many ways its not funny
>$9 C2D CPU
>$100 LGA775 Mobo
>DDR2 RAM
>in 2016
Are you even for real...
Get a G series cpu, a LGA 1150 mobo and DDR3 RAM at the very least
>60GB SSD
Get a HDD for more storage, 60GB is only usable if you run window XP.
>HD5450
If you are spending that much then go for either gtx750ti or rx460

How much is too much power? You are building a gaming PC, not a work station.

>Much power? Your build will result in a massive lagfest in any densy populated area and 25 man raids / bgs.
He means giving his sister the power to choose her own pc. If she gets independence then she might not be his waifu.

New thread at:

You are retarded. Your choices are literally causing tightness in my chest. How can anyone be this stupid?

$3100 for a 6600k/1070 build... Jesus man I bought a 2700k/1080 build for $1200 usd and it certainly outperforms your shit.

What's the difference between these GPU's?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487265
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487249
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487259
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487262