Hey guys I'm trying to test these AAA batteries but they seem to be reading over 4v. What's going on?

Hey guys I'm trying to test these AAA batteries but they seem to be reading over 4v. What's going on?

Voltage isn't discrete, it's not either 3.5 or 0v.
It starts out at like a bit over 4.0v for a new battery, and then slowly drops as it's used. Eventually it'll get low enough so the device won't work.

That's why batteries that are low will still power a lot of simple things like flashlights.

Also, google it next time.

I know, but these are 1.5v batteries so they should not be reading over 4v. I've tried googling it.

You're right, that's very high.
I forgot AAA are 1.5 not 3.5.
Are they something similar to trustfires, lipo batteries in a AAA form factor?

use DC you dingus

How did you take that picture...

No, they are definitely 1.5v AAAs.
I'm on the 1.5v battery testing mode
Someone else took it for me

Don't use harbor freight multimeters.

>
>use DC you dingus
This... Set to the 20v at the ten o clock position.

Get rid of the chink shit battery. if you over voltage a device you will fry it, no questions asked. There is very strict tolerances, devices are made to convert whatever the fuck voltage you feel like throwing an a "AAA 1.5v" bay. If the device is made to run off of 1.5v and you give it 4v, you can really fuck it up

Also measuring the voltage isnt always the best way to test a battery. It will let you know if its completely dead or not, but capacity also comes into factor. You could put it into a device and it will drop down to .5v under load.
I just replaced a shit ton of rechargeable batteries I have because they are just worn out. They are suppose to have capacities of 2000mah, and some of them tested to have a capacity of only 150mah, which is useless.

you're reading amperage you dummy

the batterty is fine, the meter says a 1.5v battery will read 4.0 mA and you're at 4.1

Yeah, I was just looking at it and realized that. Thanks lmao.
Thanks

>doing electrical work on my parents ancient house
>test mains, they're 130 or something
>spooked because they should be 120
>bring someone in to look at it
>it's higher, and climbing before my eyes
>panicking wondering what on earth i could have done to cause this

protip: replace the batteries in your multimeter

That's because it's actually read as 4.1 mA.

RTFM faggot.

sage.

My power tests anywhere from 114 - 124 VAC. Also for about a two year period a transformer or something a few blocks over would regularly blow up.

That multimeter is dangerous

No it is really not

USE DCV YOU RETARD

How

so this wasn't a troll thread?

mediocre

WTF user THAT'S NOT DC SCALE

is this a bait?

I'm more surprised that OP managed to get his hands on a functional harbor freight multimeter.
Every one that I've gotten for free didn't work.

Wouldn't you put it on DCV to measure DC voltage?

Not an electronics expert but I think the setting you have it on is for measuring capacitance (?)

>tfw mains at 232V
t-thanks for the free volts

dcv dingdong

what is your countries' normal voltage? mines' 240, but some are as low as 220

240v>120v

So can someone explain something about Moores law to me? If you have a very very low resistance (like as close to 0 as possible) and just whatever regular voltage going in, doesn't that mean you have a shit ton of current? Like 9V/1 micro ohm = 9000 Amps no?

Ohms Law is what I meant obviously not Moores law

>Moores law
>Moore's law refers to an observation made by Intel co-founder Gordon Moore in 1965. He noticed that the number of transistors per square inch on integrated circuits had doubled every year since their invention. Moore's law predicts that this trend will continue into the foreseeable future.

230 V (Germany)

I didn't know countries existed where the nominal voltage was 240 V

...

Yes you would have a lot of amps.

It's incredibly hard to remove that much resistance. That's the point of super conductors, their resistance is so small it's practically zero. Go read about how they work and you might find what you're looking for.

Yes, but this relies on your power supply being able to supply that amount of current. Residential outlets are limited to something on the order of 20 A or similar.

The more current you pass through something, the hotter it gets. This is roughly how induction heating works: Use a transformer (coil pair) to go from low-current high-voltage to low-voltage high-current, and the secondary coil will get very hot.

But I'm not an expert, so correct me if I'm wrong

Thanks, will look up super conductors.

Yes, and it also means housefires.

How did you take the photo when you have both of your hands occupied with the tester ?

YOU DO REALIZE YOU'RE NOT MEASURING VOLTAGE RIGHT?

...

...

Maybe put the dial over to the 2000m option on your meter. I think you're measuring fucking capacitance or resistance.

>I'm on 1.5 volt battery testing mode

Okay... but what does the volt meter part of the meter tell you? Seems like you have a pretty easy first troubleshooting step.

No safety, lack of proper fuses

do you have a camera implanted in your face?

...

voltage can vary a lot dep on power grid and your location in it. if your in an industrial area your power can be super dirty.

my gf

wtf is that range setting?

a normal 1.5V cell should go all the way up to 1.6V and down to 1.0V when it's fully discharged. 4 volts is very wrong though. Check it with the normal 2V setting and see what you get

>I forgot AAA are 1.5 not 3.5.

Voltages aren't standardized for any battery form factor, those two things have nothing to do with each other. Just because you live in a place where AAA usually are 1.5 it doesn't mean that AAA are 1.5.

OP JUST PUT IT ON FUCKING DCV 2000m OR 20 AND STOP ARGUING THAT IT'S ON "BATTERY TESTER MODE". post results, and then we can talk.

It always averages out to 232 V though, at all scales, even if I zoom in. It averages out to roughly 232V over every week I look at, even on an almost daily basis.