/pcbg/ - PC Building General

/pcbg/ - PC Building General
If you wanted anime, you should have been quicker.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, please politely direct them here.

Last one here:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/GG7TM8
pcpartpicker.com/user/3uphony/saved/#view=yhn48d
pcpartpicker.com/list/8zXgBP
pcpartpicker.com/user/3uphony/saved/yhn48d
pcpartpicker.com/list/tDtZJV
pcpartpicker.com/list/d3K4pb
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W03VR9011&cm_re=gigabyte_gaming_7-_-13-128-835-_-Product
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F84GM8956&cm_re=msi_gaming_m7-_-13-130-872-_-Product
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83UD9927&cm_re=asus_rog_maximus_viii_hero-_-13-132-565-_-Product
pcpartpicker.com/list/qKFGJV
bestbuy.com/site/acer-23-led-lcd-monitor-169-5-ms-black/4751006.p?
pcpartpicker.com/list/88p8QV
pcpartpicker.com/list/88p8QV/by_merchant/
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487265
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487249
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487259
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487262
amazon.com/Dell-SX2210-Widescreen-HDMI-Monitor/dp/B00275M3HO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
pcpartpicker.com/list/ngLPJV
pcpartpicker.com/list/H3bh7h
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/dNYrvV
pcpartpicker.com/list/bv4dbj
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/nW9NzM
pcpartpicker.com/product/D7hj4D/acer-monitor-umkg7aa002
au.pcpartpicker.com/product/c298TW/asus-monitor-mg279q
pcpartpicker.com/list/Zfp2xY
3dmark.com/3dm/15010175
3dmark.com/3dm/15010311
fr.pcpartpicker.com/list/sg29Cy
amd.com/en-us/innovations/software-technologies/dual-graphics
pcpartpicker.com/list/M7McxY
pcpartpicker.com/product/hQ7CmG/lepa-cpu-cooler-lpwac240hf
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125879
cpu-world.com/info/AMD/Recommended_graphics_cards_for_AMD_dual-graphics.html
gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5738#ov
asus.com/us/Monitors/ROG-SWIFT-PG279Q/
pcworld.com/article/3114710/hardware/amd-thinks-beyond-zen-chips-as-it-sets-manufacturing-goals.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/DVbQPs
pcpartpicker.com/list/3r8rM8
ebay.com/itm/ADATA-Premier-SP550-2-5-240GB-SATA-III-TLC-Internal-Solid-State-Drive-SSD-ASP/291583537127
pcpartpicker.com/list/6tjZcc
pcpartpicker.com/list/pjcHWX
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

1st for building pcs for your sister

Last OP's picture was actually comfy to look at

Bigots can't be choosy.

>Last OP's picture was actually comfy to look at
Same OP actually.

Here you go again.

Just read the wiki again and see this
>Magnetic screwdrivers will fuck up your components. Keep them away.
I have been using magnetic screwdrivers to put my rig together, how fucked I am?

whoever wrote that in there is a fucking idiot, unless you are masturbating HDD's with neodymium a regular basis nothing will happen.

Aye, did a quick google search and it seems like there would be no problem.
Thanks for clearing up.

Guys, should I get a cheap GPU like the 460 4GB, and call it a day until next year or get a 1060 6GB/RX 480 8GB.

Mind I'm running an i3-6100 with (about to be) 16 gigs of ram.

If you have that serious of a build then you clearly need some serious gpower that is graphical power to go with it.
The rx460 is majorly barebones compared to your extreme amount of Radeon Accompanied Memory.
Those sixteen great buys require at least half as much very rapid async machines to work properly with the latest graphics technolgies such as ultra detailed textures and downscaled super resolution.
Pick up a radical x480 8GB card and experience the marvels of a modern machine.

I'm looking at the Samsung U28E590D for a monitor but I kind of want to be 30'+

Any recommendations?

27 is best for gayman In my opinion senpai

What's the downside to using an overpowered PSU? Let's say my PC needs about 400W but I got a perfectly fine 750W PSU laying around. Is there a reason not to use it? Does it run hotter? Does it increase the power bill? Pls help

>27 is best for gayman In my opinion senpai
I'm unsarcastically interested in the reasoning for your opinion, senpai

Is it because a higher size requires higher res for picture quality and this requires a bigger card to keep up with the refresh rate?

Do I use airflow fans or static pressure fans for a front intake?

No downsides. Just wasted dosh and maybe your PSU fan never turns on.

>What's the downside to using an overpowered PSU? Let's say my PC needs about 400W but I got a perfectly fine 750W PSU laying around. Is there a reason not to use it? Does it run hotter? Does it increase the power bill? Pls help

It might use a little more power but not much, power that isn't being drawn by devices isn't being drawn out of the mains. A little more power for it's internals possibly, the cooling should be better to support a higher load, it might run a little louder than a lower wattage one.

In general, it should basically only be better with no real downsides.

Airflow.

Static pressure is for blowing or pulling through a cooler or radiator.

PSU's have efficiency curves most hit peak efficiency between 50-75% load. For somewhere like where I live (nearly $0.20 per kWh) a more efficient PSU will pay for itself given time.

The people over at Overclock.net seem to have a massive boner for static pressure fans though, like they think that dust filters and HDD cages restrict airflow enough to warrant static pressure fans. Are they correct in this regard or is this typical forum circlejerking?

Related...

If I run two different GPUs serving one monitor each, is this going to kill performance in the better one?

Like, if I decide that 1440 gaming is affordable right now and get a card and monitor for that, can I later convert to a dual setup when 4k becomes not-stupid?

End up with something like TitanX+40' motherfucker and 1670+Samsung U28E590D for non-gaming desktop stuff.

A titan x can easily run over 2 monitors without breaking a sweat. You'd probably just be wasting space in your case by putting another one in there.

pcpartpicker.com/list/GG7TM8

First build, already made and am running it now. Did I make any crazy mistakes? What GPU would you recommend for this?

Static because dust filter
Airflow is for completely unrestricted airflow like exhaust
Plus high pressure on the intake equals positive

>A titan x can easily run over 2 monitors
Yeah but at 4k and 100fps refresh rate?

It doesn't matter actually because I'd already have the old one anyway so it's just a choice between using it and throwing it away.

Higher size doesn't always equate to higher resolution, but as you said it does clearly affect pixel density unless you change your change your resolution.
This can be avoided by either: getting a smaller, but higher pixel density screen
Or by sitting farther away from the screen until you cannot see gaps between the pixels of your screen.
Depending on how your desk is set up this could be as sinple as sliding the monitor further back.
In general, it is easier to get a higher pixel density so when you want to sit less than two feet from your monitor you can without seeing gaps between your pixels.

25" was a standard for 1080p for quite a while, but now that 2160p is bumping into 1440p's niche at 27", the overall pixel density of the average monitor has been increasing.

I personally have 2160p @23" and it seems large to me coming from 17"-19" screens.
Anything over 30" and you might as well buy a tv instead.

Dust filters do significantly restrict airflow and many HDD cage designs are flat out stupid in regards to airflow
Static to be safe, they might be louder and faster but that's fine for intake

>single fan AIO
I would get a better PSU, bronze rated at least. You can throw any GPU in there honestly.

Actually there's nothing consumer-level can run 4K at 100Hz at all
The new pascal upgrade of the Titan X can hold its own on maxed out games at 4K and a solid 60Hz, and that's asking a fuck load with the detail out today
SLI is becoming more and more of a meme, it was a meme to begin with but now it's becoming a plain useless meme

AMD A10-8850 Extreme Edition Processor 3.9GHz
16GB DDR3 (2-DIMM) RAM

Drives:
1TB 7200RPM SATA Hard Drive

Graphics & Video:
2GB AMD Radeon R5 Graphics

bout $500

r8

Alright, one more question, which is better in terms of silence/airflow, 3x120mm or 2x140mm?

And I mean, if you have a card that can process maxed out 4K games at 100fps on one monitor, an extra 1080p screen playing YouTube or some shit would literally add nothing to the workload

4k most assuredly assuming it's the Pascal, I don't know about 100fps though.

16GB ram instead of 8 if you can.
You could probably get a cheaper mobo that does essentially the exact same thing that one can.
I'd advise getting some form of spinning disk HDD if you don't have one already.
1070 would probably be a good fit GPU-wise.
Also what that other user said, see if you can get some metal rating. Best not to cheap out on the thing giving life to all your expensive shit.

What do you mean about the fan?
I have one blowing air out the top, one attached to the CPU radiator on the back that sucks air in, and one that pushes air from the front of the case inwards.

There's really no point in getting an AIO with a single-fan-sized radiator since it has the same thermal dissipation capabilities as a regular old 120mm tower cooler.

>Actually there's nothing consumer-level can run 4K at 100Hz at all
That's why I want to go for 1440 or so. I figure that will tide me over until 4k becomes reasonable in a year or two.

I do want a nice big screen though.

>25" was a standard for 1080p for quite a while, but now that 2160p is bumping into 1440p's niche at 27", the overall pixel density of the average monitor has been increasing.
Thanks.

I do remember playing on a 14' but those days are gone for good. I had a 27' screen a few years ago before I sold everything and left the country. Now I have some money to burn and a desire for a dedicated gaming rig, 30' seems like a good place to be.

Aren't metal ratings just efficiency? I don't pay the bills here, so I don't care.

How'd I do? I built this computer out of scrap parts available in my area. From the Philippines by the way, and this rig costed around $400-500 total.

CPU: 2 x Intel Xeon X5550
Cooler: 2 x Gammaxx 300
Mobo: Ztsystems Pacuare09 (1366 dual cpu slot)
GPU: Powercolor Radeon HD 7750 1GB ddr3
Memory: 6 x Transcend 4GB 1333mhz ECC Ram
HDD: Leftover parts from my old computer consisting of 250gb Samsung 850 EVO and 4 x 1tb~4tb 7200rpm drives
PSU: Seasonic SS600H2U 600w 2U
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro


Main usage is heavy video editing and my main bottleneck right now is the gpu, any suggestion to balance out my system? Limited to 6-pin video cards by the way.

I have 4x120mm
I feel like I someone could double the amount of fans and I wouldn't even notice the noise difference
Desktop fan noise seemed like a much much much bigger problem online
And for airflow? Just have a powerful intake (I have 2x120mm intake) and at least 1 exhaust and you're solid
Intake + top AND rear exhaust makes an insignificant improvement over intake + rear exhaust
More than 1/2 intakes + 2 exhaust and you're gonna be gaining nothing at all, cooling wise

Efficiency = better components = better lifespan.

Yeah they are, but if power's free then I guess it's a nonissue.

They kinda sort of loosely equate to component quality because it's hard to make a super efficient PSU a piece of crap, but really having 80+ at all is the biggest thing to have

A new Rx 460 or if 2nd hand maybe a gtx 960

I'll rationalize it by saying I like the form factor. It does look more modern than those great beasts of metal.

Rad build man, I like how its a budget build with a premium phanteks fan.
Look into the EVGA SC 960 or 1060, they are low power usage and you should be able to pick up a 960 cheap.

Also your not limited to one 6 pin, you can get adapters so that it can run off the fan power cables from the PSU.

Of course it does but that's a pretty fucking serious premium you pay for more noise, less lifespan, and no cooling advantages at all
Once you choose a case with no window, you'll find yourself saving money left and right not caring about internal aesthetics

Looking for feedback on this shit:

pcpartpicker.com/user/3uphony/saved/#view=yhn48d

Recently decided I needed to build a new PC. Looking to game and stream.

Best/cheapest 8gb+ graphics card? I don't want to spend more than 250$, does this mean I should just get a 470 8gb?

$60 seems fine for a good cooling system.

Get 8gb RAM and you're all good

Pretty solid build user
Just get a 480 man. Aftermarket 8gb cards are around $270.

need advice on my budget build
pcpartpicker.com/list/8zXgBP

It really is
/pcag/ - PC Assembly General

It really is shitty memers baiting eachother constantly general or /shitmemebaitotherconstantlygeneral/

Post the 'sharing' URL from the website's toolbar.

I don't know, I thought $20 was good for an equivalent cooling system that won't have a broken pump in 2 years, but that's me. If you insist on water cooling at least get a 240mm radiator so you can say you have an advantage over $20 pieces of metal

there are literally no redeeming qualities to this build.

pcpartpicker.com/user/3uphony/saved/yhn48d

Like this?

...

I can't be the only one who thinks that not only looks like shit, but is impractical. You'd have to clean the dust out of that bitch every few days.

I keep thinking about grabbing the RX-480, but at the moment (really should've just posted my build earlier) this is what I have-

pcpartpicker.com/list/tDtZJV

560 is from my dead PC from last year, and I'm hoping that it will work long enough for the new GPU's to go down in price.

Thanks man, i'm currently looking at that and the gtx 950. Lets see how my budget permits me. And the fan came with the phanteks case when i bought it, can't gimp out on cooling especially with dual cpus.

SSI EEB (the form factor of my mobo) compatible cases are extremely hard to find, almost in the realm of diy.

>but muh open air
>but muh tempurd glass
>but muh rgb Powered by Corsair Gaming™
>but muh showing off muh custom loop to muh reddit friendos
Case design has only been getting worse when they decided that no one needs hard drives anymore and decided that everyone needs water cooling. Hell, they even started only offering windows on cheap budget cases, which is nonsensical since color matching is the least of your worries when it comes to budget.

>they even started only offering windows on cheap budget cases
This is the worst. I'm trying to find a mid or full tower case with 140mm fan mountings, AND without the stupid window. It's impossible. Everything is now catered to the gaymer.

pcpartpicker.com/list/d3K4pb
Coming into a little money soon and decided to splurg a bit on a new build. Only problem is I'm having trouble picking a Z170 mobo. Most of the good ones in the $150-$250 range seem to all have their pros and cons, mostly with what seems to be sound.

Far as I can tell, my best chances seem to be
Gigabyte Gaming 7
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2W03VR9011&cm_re=gigabyte_gaming_7-_-13-128-835-_-Product
MSI Gaming M7
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F84GM8956&cm_re=msi_gaming_m7-_-13-130-872-_-Product
and ASUS Rog Maximus VIII Hero
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83UD9927&cm_re=asus_rog_maximus_viii_hero-_-13-132-565-_-Product

The Gigabyte appears to have sound issues, the ASUS seems to start dying after only a few months, and I've always been leery of MSI because of their reputation. Looking for alternatives/advice.

Building a computer for my sister to play minecraft with her friends

pcpartpicker.com/list/qKFGJV

Watching a video on someone playing minecraft on that tiny little processor, runs between 60 and mins at 24fps with an old ass gpu
Ive got a spare 750ti and decent ddr3 for the build, so it should be great for minecraft and facebook pretty much
and its cute and small
the spare HDD's are some i bought just to try out windows 8.1 "storage spaces" raid thingy
i opted to buy things on newegg even though its like 5-10$ more for some components, just to get them all in one place, and ive got free shipping so the total is aobut 2$ more when i bought it

So I'm looking for a cheap but decent monitor for a budget build.
Is this a good buy while it's on sale?
bestbuy.com/site/acer-23-led-lcd-monitor-169-5-ms-black/4751006.p?
This is mostly just for web browsing and watching videos, but also some light gaming (older games and maybe Overwatch and DOTA 2, but nothing really super competitive).

Define R5. It's the pinnacle of modern case design. Only things that would make it better is having a cageless drive mounting system, fan mounts when the optical bay is removed, and maybe axing the plastic panels for metal ones.

I've had zero issues with my MSI Z170-A Pro that I got for $80 on sale. Really, all you're getting with a $200 motherboard is higher OC potential and features that probably aren't useful to you. Maybe a thicker PCB, but that's not that important.

I hope she doesn't get into modding shit dude.

MC will eat that shit up rightly so when the modpacks roll out.

no, she plays vanilla over wifi with her friends when they come over
but her laptop died on her and she wants something that can perform better
the laptop had a celery n2840, which is a great celery.... for maybe chromebooks
not to mention the spare monitor we have is only 720p anyway

No. Like everyone else is doing.

Ah, that's good then, and at the same time kind o sucks.

If only more kids knew about modpacks, yeesh.

Also, anyone got any input here?
I know that 560 won't be relevant much longer.

>I can't be the only one who thinks that not only looks like shit, but is impractical. You'd have to clean the dust out of that bitch every few days.
I think it looks awesome but I'm not sure where your HDs would go and I agree about the dust issues. It would need to be kept spotless.

PCPartPicker part list: pcpartpicker.com/list/88p8QV
Price breakdown by merchant: pcpartpicker.com/list/88p8QV/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($148.98 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($69.98 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.30 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake Chaser A71 ATX Full Tower Case ($117.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1415.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-23 02:31 EDT-0400

Don't NCIX and Superbiiz put like +10/15 on shipping, upping the price even more?

WHY THE FUCK ARE MONITORS SO EXPENSIVE

Is the Asus z170 pro gaming really recommended?

How is it compared to the Asus z170-AR (main pick for now)? I saw the reviews for the pro gaming on newegg and tons of broke shit with the audio

This is for a i7-6700k build, any other motherboard that is better?

What's the difference between these GPU's?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487265
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487249
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487259
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814487262

Monitor? Resolution / refresh rate

Any craigslist 1080p 60Hz monitor will do

Interesting build, but you might run into issues if your RAM is at different speeds.
Get at least a bronze PSU
That 950 is WAY too expensive. Buy a used one or wait for the 1050

Honestly though I can't recommend an AM3+ build to anyone

For one thing different base / boost clock configs. Another one you get a game but I don't know if that might apply to the others as well.

How well can I run 4K plain computer things + development and occasional Minecraft + CS:GO on Skylake integrated graphics?

Lemme check.
1920x1080 / 60Hz

amazon.com/Dell-SX2210-Widescreen-HDMI-Monitor/dp/B00275M3HO/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

had it over 6 years, has served me well.

>Honestly though I can't recommend an AM3+ build to anyone
why not?

This fine for a future 1080ti addition?

pcpartpicker.com/list/ngLPJV

I know I'm late for the party, but I've always been told TO use a magnetic screwdriver because its much better to do that than to put your paws all over the case trying to pick up the dropped screws.
This coming from a computer engineer who knew both hardware & was a high ranking Solaris engineer for JP Morgan.

Get a Samsung 959 pro 512gb m.2 nvme card instead of the ssd

ok, how does this look?
pcpartpicker.com/list/H3bh7h

It's $217 for it here in australia, compared to $99

are the read/write that much faster?

>For one thing different base / boost clock configs

Can you clarify on that? Like explain how each one differs exactly?

I was planning on getting the one in the first link, but if one of the others is better/worth the price increase, i'll go with it instead

[spoiler]I almost want the 459$ one just for the LED lighting[/spoiler]

480 is plenty for that

Dead socket (AM4 comes out in a month), shitty CPUs, outdated RAM. If you have to build right now I'd say 1151 is a better socket. May not be in your budget though.

Get 3000MHz RAM for kicks, it's basically the same price

Lots better, but you have to change the RAM to DDR4. Also the graphics card is really outdated, so I'd wait a month for the 1050.

Just look through them, some have a 1784MHz boost clock and some have 1683. The higher clocked cards likely have better chips. I'd go with this one newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487265
Good boost clock without a retarded price

What does it mean when I only hear ringing?

Tinnitus

Was this caused by me sitting nea r acomputer for most of my life or from construction? why am I just noticing this now? fuck

fuck

fuck

construction, computers don't cause this. I got it from planes, some people get it from concerts, it's not that bad but you'll never hear silence ever again and that's a little sad.

Could be any number of things, probably construction. Also don't crank up the volume on your earbuds and wear ear protection if you're around loud noises

I literally can't hear silence

I want to kill myself now

Also heavy drug (including alchy) use can induce tinnitus

Calm down m8, it will fade. Don't focus on it.

Now all I hear is ringing when I don't have music on to suppress it

this is fucked

recommend a build for a daredevil-teier user i guess

More likely because of construction or anything that generates loudness. Tinnitus is the first sight of hearing loss so go see doctor if you care about your ears

My AC is loud enough that I never noticed this but when the power goes out or I'm somewhere that's truly quiet, that ringing makes me feel like I'm missing out, it's sad

didn't expect all these feels in pcbg

>My AC is loud enough
The only time I hear it is when I'm using noise cancelling headphones and not listening to anything.

ty

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/dNYrvV

Any feedback on this build?

The only gaps I need to fill are a watercooling system. Does anyone have any advice or resources I can get some more info for?

Also, if i'm looking to get into overclocking is a 'k' series CPU essential?

>au.pcpartpicker.com/list/dNYrvV
>980
>4790

Are you fucking joking?

Get Skylake and then a 1080/1070/ 1060 or RX 480 depending on budget. The 980 is garbage

I already own the 980.

It's long story, i'd rather not talk about it

pcpartpicker.com/list/bv4dbj
Any feedback on my next project?
Any good 1080 to complete my build?
I was thinking EVGA but I accept other suggestions.

if i'm getting a 1080, is it worth it to spend just over a hundred strayan dollars for g-sync? the MG279Q has pretty much everything the XB270HU has except for g-sync

No. G-sync at 144Hz is a meme

first build any advice?
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/nW9NzM

>ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/nW9NzM
Looks like a decent cheap build. I guess you're on a budget.

You might want to upgrade the HD, 2tb isn't that much more. Same for RAM if you can afford it.

HNNNGGGG

I have never used an anti-static wrist strap. I know very little about electricity in general as well. Why do people have so much trouble with legos as of now?

Alright well how about this:

(since these are cheap as fuck right now on newegg) TWO of these pcpartpicker.com/product/D7hj4D/acer-monitor-umkg7aa002

vs ONE of these au.pcpartpicker.com/product/c298TW/asus-monitor-mg279q

>literally every post is about gaming PCs
It really is
/vgcag/ - Video Game Console Assembly General

The first two don't have freesync, I prefer one big monitor to two small ones generally. Easy enough to buy another small one later.

That's because every $400 prebuilt is good enough for a facebook machine.

>gaming and facebook is all there is

4 stick of 4gb ram or 2 stick of 8
Why should i pick either
Just for gaming PC

True

>>gaming and facebook is all there is
It's all that matters. If it can facebook then it can wordprocess and websurf.

If it can game then it can mostly anything.

There are always a half-dozen posts about photoshop/video editing/simulations, you just haven't seen them because your reading comprehension is shit.

And even if I spend most of the day in an IDE and compiling, gaming is the highest demand activity, if it can do that then nothing else matters.

>2 stick of 8
Keep slots free for upgrading when you have more cash. RAM is so cheap that I just fill it up anyway.

This case looks sleek, I'll look into it

>If it can game then it can mostly anything.
Gaming PCs usually can't into freedom.
>And even if I spend most of the day in an IDE and compiling
Then you don't need a dedicated gaming processing unit.

Forgot PSU, but it's 750-850W abouts.

My problem is that this says it's all compatible, but my R9 390 shows nothing when hooked up. I've RMA'd it twice already, so three cards being bad should absolutely not be the case. Please help.

Don't fall for the API meme it comes to gayming, shits way too underpowered

Ok
Should I be going for these 3000 speed sticks or are lower ones fine for something like say forza horizon 3

>Gaming PCs usually can't into freedom.
That's what dual-booting is for.

And the seven steam games I have installed in Ubuntu are pretty good.

>>And even if I spend most of the day in an IDE and compiling
>Then you don't need a dedicated gaming processing unit.

It's not dedicated, it's dual use. Gaming is the sticking point though, if it can do that then it can do the rest. If it can't do gaym then I want to upgrade it until it can.

>Should I be going for these 3000 speed sticks or are lower ones fine for something like say forza horizon 3
Lower ones will probably be fine, there aren't big gains from ram speeds for most things.

Faster ones are future-proof though, which might be good if you're planning on filling out the slots later. If you can afford it then get more and faster RAM. Just choose it well so that it's only a few extra bucks.

Is it bad if the motherbeard I have only supports DDR3
Or should i scrap it for a DDR4 board

Is there a case like that based around air cooling? One that is a little smaller.

Need some help figuring out what cooler to get

pcpartpicker.com/list/Zfp2xY

I heard this one isn't really sufficent, but I don't know what to get instead, and I need to get parts ordered and this built and set up ASAP so I can't afford to get something that has the potential to not fit and have to order a new one and wait for it to ship.

For a budget of $2000, you should be getting something better than a 212. It is a good HSF, but meant for low-mid tier stuff. Consider a U14S, maybe.

Also: Why 2x500GB? Why not 1x1TB?

And why are you buying two OSes?

Yes it's bad but you're clearly not wanting to spend much so get what you can. DDR3 isn't going away any time soon.

Upgrade if you can afford.

the 2 SSD's and two OS's is for dual booting. I want DX12 games but I don't want W10's bullshit. I also have lots of software made for XP and vista that I use that i'm sure won't run on w10 because it barely runs on 7 as is

Bump

Any resources for watercooling and feedback on the build would be appreciated

>Consider a U14S, maybe.

Also, you sure this will fit? Again, I can't afford time wise for it not to and have to order something else

lastly, it sounds dumb, but is there another cooler that works just as well the same size that's in a different color? The brown is ugly as fuck

What's the best 1080 for the money, which can still wreck gaymes like the Witcher 3 etc?

Try the Cryorig H5 Universal. There are two versions, Ultimate and Universal. Universal is spaced more nicely in order to not fuck with your RAM heatsinks, and it'll fit fine in any full case

What sort of ventilation a room would need to keep that PC free of dust for at least a full day?

>Is there a case like that based around air cooling?
That case doesn't force you to use liquid cooling, you could use whatever with it. Case airflow looks excellent.

>What sort of ventilation a room would need to keep that PC free of dust for at least a full day?
It might have less dust issues than regular cases because air wouldn't circulate in it, just in and out.

No way to know though.

are you installing the driver?

do you have the 8 pin and 6 pin connector plugged in? some psu have a 6+2 setup, plug the 6+2 from one cable into the 8 pin and leave the other two dangling from the 6 pin if you have this style. Have you tried a different pci slot or another card in the slot you are using to verify it isnt the mobo?

how'd I do? built 3 weeks ago.
also my benchmarks are fine right?
3dmark.com/3dm/15010175
3dmark.com/3dm/15010311

Plain computer things at 4K? Skylake integrated graphics might actually handle that
Anything even resembling a game at 4K? Literally impossible

You can overclock all of them yourself and all of the coolers are good enough
Now more than ever GPU reseller brands are mattering less and less

>looking for decent gpu for my budget build

>470 is about 190-200.
>480 4g is roughly 230.
>480 8g is 240.

This pricing is retarded, I'm tempted to just buy a 980 off ebay or some shit.

Tried exactly all of that. It's like the computer doesn't even register that there's a card in there at all, even though the card lights up and the fans run. Just a perma-black monitor. It sucks.

>tfw fell for the 3000mhz meme
>3000mhz was on sale and cheaper than 2133mhz
>motherboard apparently doesn't support g skill 3000mhz
I thought ram was ram?

Pretty sure ram is ram and a mobo that doesn't support X frequency doesn't exist.

Too bad the 480 is not even 10% worse than the 980ti. The prices really are stupid. Fucking post-2007 world.

So I tried to make a build on a tight budget that can play and upscale videos using madVR (hopefully nicely configured) and some really basic games.
fr.pcpartpicker.com/list/sg29Cy
What do you think?

Will a GTX 1080 be bottlenecked by a mildly OC'ed 6600k i5? (or whatever the best i5 is)

No, it doesn't support X brand at X frequency, there's a huge list of what ram is supported on the website
The 7th BIOS update includes "better DDR XMP support" but I don't wanna flash my bios in case I'm stupid and fuck up

>The 7th BIOS update includes "better DDR XMP support" but I don't wanna flash my bios in case I'm stupid and fuck up
It's pretty hard to fuck up a bios update. Just take your hands off the keyboard when it starts and don't uplug anything.

Why aren't there any 1440 gsynch monitors over 27'?

Why aren't there any 4K Gsync monitors under 27"?

Post a better matx case.

>deletes post
>still spells it wrong
27" is the lowest pixel density you would want on a 1440p monitor without running into problems with input lag.
As for the gsync, I would imagine it is somewhat harder to find one because freesync is beating gsync at becoming the widely adopted standard.

Best 550-600w PSU for cheap? Lots of bullshit science surrounding PSU's, and I just want to pay as little as possible without blowing up everything.

Bitfenix Prodigy. Enthoo Evolv

How many $ do you pay for that case?
You can pick up something like corsair 88r, cm n200, or rosewell line-m for $50 or less and be just fine.

>cheap
You get what you pay for. Best value is EVGA GQ line imo. Lowest wattage in that line is 650 and you can get it for under 80$.

£75 or something have used it for two builds, can't go back to full towers now since as I only ever use one graphics card anyway.

Is it normal for a graphics card (3rd party seller) to come in nothing sealed, just the whole thing naked wrapped in newspaper

dude just threw the CD in with it as well, not putting it in any kind of case. Is this abnormal or to be expected?

No lol

>freesync is beating gsync at becoming the widely adopted standard
Even though gsync is objectively better. But freesync doesn't charge $200 for licensing I guess.

I want to go Intel/NV for this build, I've done AMD/ATI in the past, nothing wrong with it but not what I'm doing this time.

I deleted my post because I forgot to say gsync in the post and there's a few big 1440p monitors, they just don't have gsync.

Whatever happened to that AMD memetech where you match an APU and ATI and got extra processing from the integrated GPU or something?

>Is it normal for a graphics card (3rd party seller) to come in nothing sealed, just the whole thing naked wrapped in newspaper
>dude just threw the CD in with it as well, not putting it in any kind of case. Is this abnormal or to be expected?
Fuck no, maybe it was OEM? Even then you'd expect the CD to be in a paper slip and the card to be in a foil bag.

I have no idea what is going on with that.

>Whatever happened to that AMD memetech where you match an APU and ATI and got extra processing from the integrated GPU or something?

dual graphics

they are still using it on current apu
amd.com/en-us/innovations/software-technologies/dual-graphics

Ordered. Ty

bumparoni

Bump. I might upgrade the CPU if needed but I keep reading that madVR doesn't care about the CPU it's all about the GPU.

Np. Have one myself after debating a ton of time between the GQ, G2 and Corsair RMx. The GQ is just too good value I'm afraid and it will most likely last more than the G2 (which is more expensive) considering the G2 has ball bearing fans that will wear out faster than the fluid bearing fans on the GQ, oh and the GQ is also a bit more silent and also has the ECO mode where the fans don't turn on till a certain wattage and considering it comes in AT LEAST 650w a lot of the times the fans won't even be spinning.

No it wont. But i'd get a 1070 for 1080p.

>they are still using it on current apu
Huh.
I never noticed it doing anything, on or off didn't seem to make much difference to me.

Dust is atracted to static, so keeping it open will actually get dustier than if it is closed.

Maybe in 2020, but games doesnt use more than 4 cores.

I'm not suggesting this is a good idea but could you have an AMD GPU and an NV in the same box, driving different monitors?

I guess the drivers would probably clash badly.

What sites do you guys use to keep up with development of PC parts? As in, I'd like to know when small new features are added and when big releases like a new architecture come along.

Toms Hardware is pretty good.

Guru3D, Techpowerup, Tom's Hardware, one local site, various subreddits and many other sites too if I'm researching for something.

Ive got a deluxe 2 with a 6850k and dominator memory. It was all bought by someone else so I have some extra cash to throw in the build.

What water cooling should I get? Is it impossible to do hard line water cooling without a bunch of specific tools I wont use again?

Ive got a 980ti that will hold me over until I figure out video cards. Was going to wait and see the 1080ti but its forever away. Wanted to put the cpu on its own water loop anyways.

I have an old mountain mods duality case that was never used for the build also. So plenty of room.

Games dont touch more then 4 cores. And even then its small most of the time between 2 and 4 cores.

So no you are fine until games are made in a flushed out vulcan engine i.e. 5 or likely longer years from now.

>Games dont touch more then 4 cores. And even then its small most of the time between 2 and 4 cores.

While the performance benefit over a quadcore is generally miniscule(mostly you'll just get higher minimums if that), many games already use 8+ threads if available.

Here's what I got so far
pcpartpicker.com/list/M7McxY

Anyone got any suggestions on what to change? I think the psu might be too much, and if anyone has any ideas for cutting some of the price let me know.
I love you bye

>Wanted to put the cpu on its own water loop anyways
Sealed liquid cooling (it's probably oil?) is already a thing, there are lots of options on partpicker.

pic related, seems one of the better ones.
pcpartpicker.com/product/hQ7CmG/lepa-cpu-cooler-lpwac240hf

That ssd won't work with that motherboard unless you get an adapter which will be shitty if it works.

You need to get a motherboard that supports the full m.2 socket not just wifi.

RAM -> 8GB
1060 6GB should be $250: newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125879
650W is perfectly fine for you, if you can get it for significantly cheaper than that 750W unit. If not, keep the 750W unit.

>Is it impossible to do hard line water cooling without a bunch of specific tools I wont use again?
Do you mean rigid pipes like in OP?
Outside of memecases, it probably requires some tools. I guess there might be kits out there but I don't know about them.

Oil could burn and isnt as good as water as a conductor of heat.

my specs
Going to be updating CPU, MB and RAM at the end of year

>That ssd won't work with that motherboard
Why?

>Oil could burn and isnt as good as water as a conductor of heat.
Depends on the oil, doesn't it?
They're not going to ignite at PC temperatures.

One of the best extreme cooling solutions I've seen that didn't use a peltier was a mobo dunked in a bathtub of motor oil. The CPU fan didn't like it but I don't think it even needed it.

>Going to be updating CPU, MB and RAM at the end of year
For what purpose?

why? there's nothing wrong with them

There is this thing yeah, it is the ultimate solution for overclocking and actually be able to use it, since you can't make a close loop of LN2.

But in long term this solution is terrible, you will have to drain cause it gets dirty and clean all components from residues and start all over again. So, for use, we stay fine with air or water cooling that can be 1 year or even more without worring with cleaning.

>You need to get a motherboard that supports the full m.2 socket not just wifi.
He literally said it in his post.

>n200
Looks just as good
Literally $30

Well I'm going to building a second computer because I only have one and this is my hobby
here is the case
I am doing the sleeving now (still learning) with stuff I got from Lutro

Seasonic MK2 520w bronze

It has an M.2 slot in the back. Am I missing something?

I see an m2 socket

You need a card and mobo capable of dg.

68, 78, and 88 mobos afaik.

cpu-world.com/info/AMD/Recommended_graphics_cards_for_AMD_dual-graphics.html

It has two sockets, one for wifi and other for PCIe or SATA SSDs.

But I don't understand the point of SATA m.2 SSD. Every single case will have a spot for a normal sata SSD.

gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5738#ov
It supports M.2 SSDs, just with the older PCIe Gen2 specification
Now shut the fuck up

Could you suggest a different mobo just in case? I'd rather be safe than sorry ya know.

So you're wrong?
That extra specification doesn't help you be less wrong

If you're getting a $140 sata M2 drive at least step up to a $180 NVME M2 drive so you're better than sata drive users

What resolution are you playing at? Gpu seems overkill for 1080p, cpu seems a little weak for 1440p. Though this might be a sweet spot for 1080p@ 120hz.

So yes it will work

I just chimed in because you cucks keep arguing over nonesense. Unless otherwise stated, all M.2 slots at least provide support to a SATA controller, so an SSD can be used on them. I can only think of two boards that are Wi-Fi only, and those M.2 slots only have mounting points for 42mm sticks.

The cucks saying that it only support Wi-Fi or that it supports the full-ham PCIe3 x4 are dumbasses, this is a H110 chipset that only has PCIe Gen2 lanes from the chipset. Also, the entire argument is a nonfactor, since that SSD in the original build is a fucking SATA-based M.2 SSD.

>that SSD won't work with that motherboard
This is what was incorrect, nobody cares about the memefight that ensues

>This is what was incorrect
Yeah, and I just posted Gigabyte's own website that states that. I have yet to see a non-server socket 1151 board with an M.2 slot that only supports Wi-Fi.

I wonder if dualgraphics provides any better results now than in that article from 2013?

Im still using an i7 920. I OC'd it to 3.2khz and it reaches around 68°C/156°F under a stress test. Is it save to clock it any higher? What should my target temp be?

Looking to make an upgrade soon. I've had the same rig for 5+ years now, and although its still running great I noticed my GPU bogging down my system on newer titles.

Running

>560 Ti
>I5-2500k

I'm really just looking to upgrade my GPU. I don't want to do all the research as I'm not looking to do a full rebuild. What cards are worth my money? This 560 has lasted me a long time and was a great investment. I'm hoping to pickup a better card that will last a similar duration.

I'm playing at 2560 x 1440 144Hz maxed out on most games and not dropping under 60fps, The monitor is a G-sync though I makes a difference

>2560 x 1440 144Hz
>G-sync

What monitor?

I can think of three right now

RX 470 or 1060 6GB

hi thread. I have
>8350 oc'ed to 4.5
>8 gig ram
>970 turbo
>kingston ssd
>asrock fatality mobo
how long do I have before I have to remake this bastard?

asus.com/us/Monitors/ROG-SWIFT-PG279Q/

So i kind of want hyperthreading for Video editing and photoshop. I've been considering a Intel xeon but a good compatible Motherboard is a must-have. Is a i7 the best option?

I'm rocking a i7 930 right now but the aging is really noticeable at this point.

Thanks in advance.

either that or wait til the new amd line comes out. theres buzz of a new socket and chip for amd. i7 is probably the best bet. I went for a 8350 some time ago, I'm well satisfied, but all I hear is that intel is so much better.

falcon is the hx750i psu enough for a 1080/1080ti?

dont listen to this faggot, 8gb ddr4 ram is more than enough. 16gb is autistic tier

8gbs of DDR4 is enough I fell for the 16gb and if it isn't in the future you can upgrade

Was considering the new Zen line as well but i believe it will launch next year and my PC is starting to feel ancient, it's getting very slow. On the other hand it doesn't have that much of a priority.

Wrong, if you have a browser open with quite a lot of tabs which is quite common for multi-monitor setups, running a background program and are playing an intensive game you will go over 8GB with ease.

>I OC'd it to 3.2khz
You mean 3.2GHz
The highest I've ever pushed a Westmere to was 3.5GHz, and that was with the i7-980X. I had a shitty air-cooler at the time, so it struggled to keep temps down below 70 degrees when benchmarked. I don't know what cooler you have, but those temps seem in line with a lower-binned Westmere and a 120mm air cooler.
I'd be more concerned about keeping the rest of the board cool too, because my X58 motherboard died from heat stress over the voltage controller and the X58 northbridge. Those parts can reach over 90 degrees if the board is overclocked, even with beefy heatsinks.

My friend has an i7 6700k oc'd to 4.5GHZ and tells me it will last him 4 more years before he has to upgrade.

Is he correct?

>My friend has an i7 6700k oc'd to 4.5GHZ and tells me it will last him 4 more years before he has to upgrade.
The next revolution in CPU design is literally MOAR CORES. Zen will inevitably make anything less than four cores unsavory for all but the most budget-minded users and an 6 core a minimum for enthusiasts. Cannon Lake's replacement mainstream socket will support up to 6 cores, so it's already begun.
Two years from now, his four-core i7 will look impotent.

>implying games will use 4+ cores

This
more cores is the next big thing
pcworld.com/article/3114710/hardware/amd-thinks-beyond-zen-chips-as-it-sets-manufacturing-goals.html

This is retarded. Processors today are barely any more powerful than those 4 years ago, you can still game just fine on a 2500K.

Using a cooler master evo 212. i only upped the clock rate and played with the multiplier a bit. Before I got the cooler master it was constently at like 71° under load without OCing which makes me think I can go a little higher

thanks bud d

>Processors today are barely any more powerful than those 4 years ago, you can still game just fine on a 2500K.
That's why adding more cores is becoming mainstream now. We're not going to see any dramatic improvements to IPC performance since both Intel, AMD, and other CPU manufacturers have tapped out every possible room for significant improvements (that won't lead to housefires like Bentium 4). AMD realized this early on with Bulldozer, but they overestimated the market's ability to support multi-threaded processes. AMD took things into their own hand by developing alternative APIs in Mantle, which would become further developed into Vulkan and DX12, that would cater to multi-threaded optimizations. With Zen releasing more cores for the price than Intel, Intel has to respond by doing the same or risk losing their desktop - and potentially pre-built and mobile - market. It's a snowball effect of market conditions becoming more supportive of multi-threaded processes followed by a lowering of CPU pricing structures based on core count that will drive a 6+ core market to become mainstream, something which AMD failed to do the first-time around (and Bulldozer CMT was a still-born concept from the amount of compromises it had to make in for the sake of having slightly more efficient multi-threading that SMT).

More than enough. A 650W PSU is already generous with the headroom, as long as you stick to one GPU.

AMD processors can have 6 cores, they will still perform worse than intels 4 core CPUs. Games and programs will be designed for best use on the intel chips as has been the case recently.

>AMD processors can have 6 cores, they will still perform worse than intels 4 core CPUs
Depends on the metrics. Games? Yes, Intel's superior and better refined single-threaded and IPC performance will win out because those will continue to rely on powerful single-threads pulling most of the weight. But for your average workstation and media creation work, a 6-core Zen will be able to blow past any 4-core i7 simply due to the number of threads it can access. Right now, there is a of a limit on how many threads programs like the entirety of the AutoDesk Suite and Adobe Creative Cloud suite can use before scaling becomes no-existent (it's 8 threads, last I remember), but this is slowly changing.
There is no replacement for more cores when it comes to multi-threaded processes.

Any recommendations on fans, which are the best? Just looking for 1 140mm and 3 120mm.

8Gb ram is enough, not more than enough
16Gb is safe
With the way things look it'll be easy for a normie to pass 8Gb playing games + stuff very soon

That's because there's actually nothing left to improve with silicon wafer CPUs
It's literally down to either moar features or moar cores. Performance has plateaued and is locked down

>zen is more cores per dollar
>5-year old Intel is still more performance per dollar
I mean zen+ is rumored to have a 32 core CPU in the works, but AMD is still struggling to be good enough even now that they've had time to catch up to intel

>It's literally down to either moar features or moar cores
Intel's been going down the former for a while now, adding more features to their CPUs to appeal to normies and spoiled Millennials who needs things to be done for them. They're also trying to reduce the amount of work their CPU has to do by putting dedicated engines for running very specific tasks (like cache indexing, sleep mode, codec transcoding, encryption, etc). AMD's Excavator has been doing much of the same thing over Kaveri to improve its power consumption and free up the CPU from running performance-draining ancillaries. But there is a peak that's been reached in the cost-to-benefit arena, where adding more features on a CPU die not only increases cost (and die size), but also starts having detrimental effects on the CPU's general performance, be it power consumption or raw compute performance.
That's why more cores are needed to make up for this stagnation.
AMD is making a giant gamble by putting more cores in CPUs costing significantly less than Intel's offerings. They are trying to dictate the direction of the market that we've been anticipating since the Core2 Quad days.

Well, newegg doesn't have that cooler, and i'm buying every other part from then, and I'm going to be getting 2 day shipping which is gonna be an extra 30$ on the other site

is there a CPU cooler neweg does have that you are again 100% sure will fit that will work better then the one I have on there?

I'll probably pull the trigger on this next week.

STILL OPEN FOR CRITICISM

pcpartpicker.com/list/DVbQPs

And yes, the cooler fits.

Noctua is the best but also the most expensive.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/DVbQPs
>$160 on HSF+fans
I do not understand the purpose of your build. Maybe swap to an AiO?

Purpose is OC while relatively quiet.

AIOs are louder due to the pumps.

The case fans will have low fan settings for most scenarios with only max used if it's hot as fuck.

Is it even worth selecting the parts and such myself if at the end of the day i'm still going to have to pay somebody to assemble them?

At that point should I just buy a prebuilt? Because I did the match and it seems like factoring all that in, it'll end up the same, the only difference is I don't know the specific model GPU/Ram the prebuilt has, just the general (GTX 1070, 32 gb ddr4), and don't know what mobo it has at all

Why not get a bigger case?

I like the compactness.

>At that point should I just buy a prebuilt?
When they're on sale or if you are going to pay someone else to build your computer for you.
Pre-builts can be a really good deal if you can catch one on sale for at least 30% of their list MSRP, since most builders forget the expense of running a legal copy of Windows is well over $80. And if you're paying someone else to build your computer for you, you'll be losing the cost savings from selecting your own parts. It makes no sense unless you want a gaymer-aesthetic build or need a particular feature from a motherboard.

Fractal Venturis are every bit as good as Noctuas while costing 75% as much.
t. guy with NH-U14s and Venturis

Eh they're only like 5 bucks cheaper here.

Anyone here have experience with Jet.com?

Checking out an XFX Video Card RX-480P836BM 8 gb that was originally 275, cut down to 266, and is now 236.

Seems like a pretty good deal, but just wanna know if anyone else here has ordered from jet and whether it's good or not.

Why do you need to pay someone to assemble it for you? There are plenty of videos on youtube explaining how to build a PC. I built my first PC when I was 13.

I'm holding out for Kaby Lake before buying either to get one or for Skulake prices to drop. I was doing some research and noticed that Kaby Lake are reported to have much lower base frequencies than say the 6700K. Is there any particular reason why?

i3 6320, i5 6500 or i5 6600k

What one is best for the money?

For what use? Knowing nothing I'd say i5 6600K. It's the standard for mid-high builds for a reason.

video editing and some gaming

Dear /pcbg/.

I have a little problem with cooling selection for my new PC, or rather - with models available where I live.

The CPU Im going to get will be i7-6700k, but for start, I dont plan or doing overlocking on my own, rather letting automatic one take place (you know, like Intel "SmartBoost"). So far, I wanted to take 212 Evo, as this model is pretty popular adn advised over logicalincrements.com, but I hardly can find it buyable in my country. Are there any other with similar priced and with similar performance, that would fit in Corsair 200R case?

Thanks for replies.

Cryorig H7, Reeven Thingy, Raijintek Themis

For some reason, shop Im using dont have any Cryorig coolers in their offer. Could not find anything about this "Reeven Thingy" either.

Raijintek Themis looks okay. Will it really be enough for i7-6700k, tho?

Everytime I ask outside Cred Forums, everyone tells me to get some massive beast of a cooler.

For gaming/media/shitposting

how did i do lads? any improvements?

You definitely need the Noctua NH-D15 or your CPU is going to LITERALLY MELT!

You kidding me with that ssd?

Do you need an i7 for that or would an i5 6600K be enough? Do you plan to overclock (K CPU, Z chipset) without an aftermarket cooler?

What I read was that Kaby lake's lineup is the exact same performance specs as this generation
Either way it'll make no difference at all, CPU tech hasn't advanced in years and won't advance for years (until non-silicon happens)
Get a 6700 non-k, save $10
Don't get a heatsink at all since non-k CPUs come with a good enough one, save $30

Holy shit, thats one big cooler.

Jokes aside, if coolers like this Raijintek Themis or mentioned 212 Evo are perfectly okay even for overlocked (moderately, I dont think about going to like 5Ghz), then why peope so often suggest others some monster coolers that can not even fit in mid-tower?

There's no such thing as an automatic overclock. "Over-clock" implies changing the clocks to go OVER the intended clock speed. Turbo clock is intended, and the stock cooler is good enough for intended speeds

What to pick? 6700K or 6800K?

I'm mainly concerned because of the shitty Skylake thermal compound and the thin PCB.

Is 6800K really a lot worse in single thread?
Also do I really need to get an AIO/loop for it?

If you're not overclocking at all then any hunk of metal with a fan will do. Get the hyper 212 evo for $25, or something cheaper even.
Or just don't get a 6700k because you're not overclocking and don't need the k whatsoever

It almost certainly will last longer than that, unless something truly unexpected comes to market in the next 5 years.

Is overclocking a meme? Is there really any point than besides it's fun?

Ahahah I just noticed it
That's a useless expensive SSD that's only advantage is not having a cable. Get a NVMe M2 SSD (Intel 600p is what I got) or get a SATA 2.5" SSD, you're losing money for no reason by getting a SATA M2

Im actually willing to pay extra (or 100 PLN, in my case) to not lock myself an option to overclock in the future.

I mean, I dont change PCs often. My current one with i5-750 have 6 years already. Thats why Im getting more powerful than what is usually suggested.

>K CPUs that don't include a cooler
>Thermal paste is included with all coolers or is $2
>skylake thermal compound
What did he mean by this

Moderate performance improvements in an area where you'd have to spend significantly more to get the next fastest CPU.

>want something that's a little bit faster and will last you a little bit longer than the stock 6600K
>the next step up is all i7s and you don't need to pay the Hyperthreading tax if you just want to game
>OC it is

I was thinking about solutions like "SmartBoost" from Gigabyte or "EasyTune".

And if I want to? Just a little bit?

a)Intel doesn't drop the prices on their old CPUs. If Skylake prices fall, it'll be due to competition from Zen, not because Kaby Lake came out.
b)The only Kaby Lake chips we have the specs for are 15w or less, and they're clocked slightly higher than their Skylake equivalents, so I'm not sure what you're comparing to 6700k - of course they'll be lower clocked, they're using a fraction of the power.

>>skylake thermal compound

The compound that's between the CPU heatshink and the die?

Skylake has cheap thermal compound between the silicon and the IHS.

Broadwells are soldered.

Yes. They turn into housefires after 2 years of use.

>I don't plan on overclocking
CPUs also have kinda plateaued in power, you're not gonna lose out on future-proofed-CPU because you have a 6700 (which kicks ass) instead of a 6700k (which kicks as much ass)
You're gonna have to replace so many things on your PC before a 6700 becomes even remotely obsolete
Just look at the new lineup, intel is pushing the exact same shit as before and AMD is just barely competing power-wise

Well it is just that the 6700 vs the 6700k has 400mhz boost clock difference.

i could maybe go for the 6600k and get a cheap GTX 1080

also i love UD5 motherboards it has all nice connectivity 6xUSB 3.0 + 2xThunderbolt III/USB Type C 3.1 if there is anything with similar ports at a lower price i would not mind.

M2 NVMe is like 140 more for the same size
i don't see that kind of speed.

Good thing my skylake CPU hasn't ever gone above 45° even when fully stressed
Fucking shit CPUs I tell ya, skylake isn't even 2 years old and it's apparently shit in two years

4GHz vs 3.4GHz base frequency, 4.2 vs 4.0 max turbo. I'd argue that if it's only $10 or so extra, the 6700k is worth the difference even without taking OC into account.(assuming, of course, that you need an i7 in the first place).

Then get a 2.5" SSD for cheap like a smart dumbass

It's clocked .2ghz higher
And you also have to pay for a cooler since it doesn't come with one
I mean get the 6700k, I would, but you aren't saving money here

But I said that, due to complete lack of experience with overlocking, I was actually planning to let mentioned software do it for me - I know it wont get as much boost as experienced user would, but if it would instead use safer increases, I would be happy as well.

Or I shouldnt use software like EasyTune or SmartBoost at all?

z97 broadwells had the same
Intel doesn't solder the consumer-grade CPUs for a while now, and the temps rise over time, because the compound turns into powder over time.

That's why people delid their CPUs, but you lose your warranty by doing so and there is a good chance of killing the CPU.

>Skylake has cheap thermal compound between the silicon and the IHS.
No it doesn't. The TIM in Skylake's IHS performs as well as if you replaced it with that Noctua paste people around here keep banging on about. It's been proven several times by now, the TIM in Skylake is now as good as a $15 aftermarket paste. The only improvements that can be made to it is using liquid metal paste.
The TIM inside Devil's Canyon was slightly worse than Skylake's, and the original Haswell was barely a step up compared to the disaster that was Ivy Bridge's TIM.

Also, Broadwell (the LGA 1150 one) was not soldered. They used the same TIM as Devil's Canyon.

I'm looking for a cool, quiet, non ricer case.

Give me one good reason why I shouldn't get the Define R5

First, you are supposed to replace the compound every year, otherwise your temps will go up. That's the issue here. You can't replace it.

And I'm obviously talking about Broadwell-E since I asked about 6800K

>reading comprehension

>First, you are supposed to replace the compound every year
No, the TIM under the IHS of all post-Ivy Bridge CPUs are meant to last the lifetime of the processor, which is about 3-5 years. It does not degrade as quickly over time since the compound was developed to be longer-lasting than most thermal paste on the market, which is why the stuff costs thousands of dollars for a liter bucket.
>That's the issue here. You can't replace it
There is no issue there. It lasts as long as it needs to, far longer than most stuff you can buy aftermarket. You're not meant to replace it.
>I'm obviously talking about Broadwell-E
You mentioned Skylake, so I assumed you were talking about the regular Broadwell.

> last the lifetime of the processor
Nah, may be true non-K series, but I'm planning to use it under 1.4 volt.

>which is about 3-5 years.
Since when is a lifetime of a CPU 3 years? Sandy bridge still carries all the modern applications.

>which is why the stuff costs thousands of dollars for a liter bucket.

It doesn't. If they didn't solder it, it means it's cheaper than solder.

That's not even up to debate. Skylake quality is vastly inferior to the Broadwell-E, because intel cut costs.

The question I was asking is how does 6800K perform in single thread in real life applications.

>Since when is a lifetime of a CPU 3 years
Read the warranty booklet that comes with your processor. It's a 3-year warranty.
>It doesn't. If they didn't solder it, it means it's cheaper than solder.
It's not cheaper than solder, but it costs less to produce than using solder because the TIM can be applied at room temperature. Stop spewing bullshit. All TIM is fairly expensive, ranging to the thousands for a liter of the stuff.

pcpartpicker.com/list/3r8rM8

Can someone recommend me a mobo? The last one I tried to order from a 3rd party seller online tried to chink me and I wasted a ton of time, finding an mITX board that is in stock is a pain in the fucking ass

>CPU tech hasn't advanced in years
10nm is on the horizon

My question was about 6800K, please go away and be autist somewhere else.

Anybody?

>RX-480P836BM
The Hyper 212X is the best cooler from c&b. Works better than those H50 and is way cheaper, also, you can fit another fan on it to make it cooler.

Lower power, more room for CPU utilities, just like skylake, but where are the gains?
But he answered it, pretty well actually

You just said you need to change your CPU internal thermal paste every year and implied Intel just won't let you because they're dicks, that a 1 and a half year old processor is known to die in two years, I think your opinions aren't valid anymore

No, he didn't. Because I know for a fact that my friend's 6700K dropped 15C° after he delidded it and replaced the compound for a thermal grizzly. Same thing happened to many many people on the internet. You just have to google it.

The guy is just some kind of a retard intel fanboy, who thinks intel can do no wrong.

>OY VEY SOMEONE'S BADMOUTHING INTEL SHUT IT DOWN!

>don't forget to open your CPU and change the thermal compound regularly or it'll just get hotter and hotter!

Don't forget that also means he changed the external thermal paste, which is much more likely to have cause a problem

The external thermal paste was the same. No one uses the OEM one. Stop shilling please, I'm already considering waiting for Zen, because no one is answering my question about the 6800K IPC.

Haven't opened up my PC in around 2 years. What should I do to clean it up? Thinking of getting some compressed air or something but wondering what else there is I should be maintaining

Take the heat spreader off the CPU and replace the thermal paste underneath it

>the OEM one
My 6700K, which has never gone more than 15° above room temperature, doesn't come with thermal paste

Do it, don't let our shilling memes fool you zen is going to be the best decision you ever made and intels prices are going to be driven down to below AMD's because zen is so dank
Show us up

This is a good deal if anyone wants a SSD.

ebay.com/itm/ADATA-Premier-SP550-2-5-240GB-SATA-III-TLC-Internal-Solid-State-Drive-SSD-ASP/291583537127

Hey I'm building a workstation for my dad who is going to be using Revit.

A lot of the stuff they are recommending on record website are out of my realm of knowledge. They are recommending xeon processors?

I only know the basics of how to build a good home or gaming PC.

Could you guys help me out? I mean this program can be used with $10,000 setups building skyscrapers and shit but Dad is just going to be using it for residential and commercial building architecture.

We have an ATX box to start with, and I'td be nice to have it scalable if he gets into really serious work but I think we're working with a $1.5-2k budget for now...

pcpartpicker.com/list/6tjZcc

Gaming.
$800
USA
I do not want to lower price, and I may want to upgrade if reasonable.

>960 2G
I hope you dont plan on playing AAA games.

Suggestions then? I need R6S in my life.

What is R6S and your choices are RX480, 1060 and 1070.

Rainbow Six Siege.

Updated it to MSI GeForce GTX 1060 3GB GAMING X 3G Video Card

>pcpartpicker.com/list/6tjZcc
$106 for a mini ITX board is fucking stupid. Find an H110 mini ITX board.
With the $30 or so you've saved from that swap, you can now fit an RX 470 into your budget.

It is now the ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard

Hey wondering if anyone can tell me if a Kraken X61 280mm CPU Cooler would fit inside my case: a CM Scout 2 Advanced

Been googling it, trying to get in touch with a Cool Master tech guy, live online support. Nada. Zip. Zero answers.

If it's not too much get the 6G version of the 1060.

Got it. 730, thanks Cred Forumsuys. Any other tips?

>ITX mobo
>mATX case
You should chose between those two.

Switched it up.
pcpartpicker.com/list/pjcHWX

is there any performance differences between atx, micro atx and mini itx mobos?

1) Can you mount two 140mm side-by-side anywhere?
2)If so, is there at least 75mm of space free behind/beneath that mounting area?
If yes to both, then you might be able to fit the cooler. The only but is how long the hose on the X61 is, which isn't that long and might not fit if the front mount is the only place you can fit the radiator to.

Looks good, add a SSD if you like.
product/gf98TW/a-data-internal-hard-drive-asp550ss3240gmc

Well in the picture of the case, the two fans mount areas visible are for 2 120mm fans and below that there is a hell of a lot of room between the mounts and the motherboard. From what I'm seeing in some comments and reviews a lot of people jury rigged it or some shit. Damn.

Thank you Cred Forumsentleman. I shall pass, too rich for my blood.