/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Please, never buy generic or bad PSU. They will fuck your PC, and your life.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, please politely direct them here.

Old thread: Old thread: Old thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/2wHRVY
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/LyZFZ8
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/ZGbwYr
pcpartpicker.com/list/698jnn
youtube.com/watch?v=21IaKTKFIiE
pcpartpicker.com/list/Hg9LPs
pcpartpicker.com/list/tg66QV
pcpartpicker.com/list/z9PzPs
monoprice.com/product?p_id=16392
ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=104719&promoid=1009
amazon.com/dp/B00L1FLJXK/?tag=pcpapi-20
pcpartpicker.com/list/FN8jnn
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/CcgGPs
de.pcpartpicker.com/list/fk44pb
pcpartpicker.com/list/mLCDjc
pcpartpicker.com/list/yfPgnn
pcpartpicker.com/list/PXn8QV
pcpartpicker.com/list/kprYd6
pcpartpicker.com/list/kprYd6/by_merchant/
ekwb.com/shop/aio
reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/4z6m3y/what_is_the_best_aftermarket_air_cooler_for_titan/)
pcpartpicker.com/list/3vhmCy
item.jd.com/10437929436.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/d7qBqk
pcpartpicker.com/list/W43mCy
pcpartpicker.com/list/Gn4Bqk
pcpartpicker.com/list/wKR4pb
pcpartpicker.com/list/4zpzPs
pcpartpicker.com/list/gJkWcc
pcpartpicker.com/list/NZRX7P
pcpartpicker.com/list/HGt3rH
youtube.com/watch?v=YySa723VD2Y
youtube.com/watch?v=TnyoJtv9Cx0
pcpartpicker.com/list/NpJgnn
phanteks.com/Enthoo-MiniXL.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/PjC4pb
pcpartpicker.com/list/7QnyWX
techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_1070_Gaming_Z/22.html
techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_1060_Gaming_X_3_GB/26.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/d7jBqk
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/tFJmCy
amazon.com/dp/B01JNUO6BG/?tag=pcpapi-20
amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/?tag=pcpapi-20
youtube.com/watch?v=mGnmsb_kDHA
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/pjt9Cy
youtube.com/watch?v=EhaB1dqYv_I
twitter.com/AnonBabble

>Air or Water Cooler for the CPU
Either is fine, the choice really is yours.
>2133 RAM
Get 3000 RAM
>Arctic Silver
Noctua coolers come with NT-H1 thermal compound, you don't need extra.
>750W PSU
That's an overkill for you build. Even if you want to upgrade, 650W is fine, unless you want a second GPU.

Thanks a lot.

You should go for a 1080

I already consider my build to be expensive as hell, you really think it's worth it ? I'm not going to do 4K gaming or triple A games at all. Light to medium gaming and mostly GPU-accelerated calculations.

1070 is more than enough for 1080p gaming, even for AAA titles.

pcpartpicker.com/list/2wHRVY
Uh, is the Asus Z170-A fine? It has mixed reviews.

Just bought a i7 6700k for 230 euro. Im a happy man now.

why 3000mhz ram?

Here

Thanks for the various answers. Going with a slight upgrade on the Mobo for future proofing, and a 1060 6GB as it's a small card. So far it looks like so:

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/LyZFZ8

Any suggestions for cases would be welcomed.

Isn't much more expensive, performs better and Z170 allows you to use it.

Here laddy, take a look at this: uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/ZGbwYr
This is a complete and affordable example build with optional components at similar prices.
Mobo: MSI H110M ProVD vs. Asus H110M Plus, i recommend the later.
GPU: 1060 6G vs. RX480 8G, choice is your.
Case: CM N200 vs. Corsair 350D mATX, later is better, but about 10-15 pounds more expensive.

>future proofing
Any build in that price range isn't really future proof. If you want to future proof yourself it's better to get a good i5 + Z170 combo.
If you can't afford this, stay with the H110 combo and get a new PC when this one doesn't meet your requirements anymore, which should be in around 2-5 years depending on what you do with it.
I paid 1000€ for my i7-870 + GTX460 build around 6 years ago and i still don't feel like upgrading it since i don't play AAA titles at all. If i had to get a new PC today, i'd opt for an i5-6600K + 1060/1070/RX480 build. Just to give you an idea about future proofing.

Well just ordered 64gb of 2400mhz RAM, can cancel if it's going to be an issue

It's not an issue, so don't worry about it. It's rather an opportunity cost thing.
>64GB
Jesus Christ, do you want to open a chinese adult cartoon server?

I am looking into buying a Corsair VS450, is gud?

Don't worry, it has no real-world impact on anything.

It's pretty good for nonmodular psu.

Thanks for coming back on future proofing. For now I'll stick to a relatively small splurge on a Z170 mobo and see how this pans out.

Anything wrong with this?

> CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
> CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler
> Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
> Boot Drive: Plextor M5P Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased)
> Storage: Hitachi Travelstar Z5K500 500GB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased)
> Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
> Case: Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX Mini ITX Tower Case
> Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
> Monitor: LG 29UM58-P 29.0" 75Hz Monitor
> Mouse: Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased)
> Keyboard: Leopold FC750R (Cherry MX Reds) (Purchased)
> Headphones: AKG K66 (Purchased)

Yeah not sure what I'm doing

neat, thanks will enjoy my cool red camo ram

I just took the plunge on this: pcpartpicker.com/list/698jnn

>have to wait until Thursday to get it

Let the suffering begin

Sell 128GB SSD and get 500GB one
Replace that 2.5" hdd with a 3.5" (7200rpm)

are you drunk?

What make you think I'm drunk?

>2666 LED
Get non-gaymur LED, non-666-satanist 3000 RAM you heretic.
>Plextor
Idk about their SSDs..
>5400RPM 2.5"
That's not something you want to have in your PC.

Other than that, it's objectively ok.

No problem, post a link to your build before you buy, though.

is an intel i5 3570k ok for gaming? Thinking of some upgrading soon and wondering if i should get a new cpu

>is an intel i5 3570k ok for gaming?
Only for Minecraft and Tetris, please be a good goy and buy the newest Intel™ i7-6800K and Nvidia™ Quad-SLI GTX1080 to enjoy your arcade games in 8K HyperUltraWarpHD.

Hello Mr. Jew

4 eggs on newegg, it's fine.

Cheap, m8

I'd say you're good a soon as you break that RAM into a x2 4GB kit oif 3000MHz DDR4. You'll have four slots on that mobo, so you can add another x2 4GB later if need be.

Don't fall for the i5 meme. Here's the i3 paired with a 1070 displaying at 1440p. Note 100% GPU utilization while the CPU has room to spare. youtube.com/watch?v=21IaKTKFIiE

Nice ultrawide.
If I were you I'd just go with an i3. You can see from the video I posted above that it runs 1440p just fine. If you want to stick with the unlocked CPU, bump your RAM up to 3000MHz.
As the other user said, 128GB SSD is a little small. You might just buy another 250GB SSD for games and save the 128 for OS and programs. And of course a $60 HGST 2TB HDD never hurt anyone.

Good luck

Ur f1n3 m8

oh fugg how many leds do i need to run crysis?

What's a good alternative to cable combs? I just want something to keep my sleeved cables flat but I don't want to wait for shipping.

At least 5 petaflops of military grade AMOLED Adobe sRGB diodes.

TY Cred Forumsent

Just built. Couldn't be happier.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Hg9LPs

N1 m8, just remember to play some games now.

Neat. Post speccy, temps and which AIO is that?

the RAM was a joke desu, I'll just get Ripjaws Vs with a higher CAS. I already own the SSD and HDD; bought both to clone my OS drive in my laptop and replace it (SSD) and put into the optical drive bay (HDD) and then the fucker died.

>Nice ultrawide. If I were you I'd just go with an i3...
I work from home remotely and do lots of spreadsheet work (Cisco XenDesktop) which is why i went both ultrawide and i5.

This change anything fellas?

>pcpartpicker.com/list/Hg9LPs
That's awesome man.

I still have to wait till weds to get my 1060 + 1TB HDD.

Everything else is still setup.

Is the $500-600 pricetag of a custom water cooling loop for both CPU and GPU worth it? going from 70C to 40C must be amazing

Diminishing return hits.

Frankly speaking, if you get one of those h110i and put that on CPU and another H60 or a G10 Kraken, then put that on GPU, that would be cheaper and just as effective.

nope, objectively speaking. not now it's not with die shrinks. CPU and GPUs are efficient as fuck now compared to say Netburst.

3GB vs 6GB

From bunch of game benchmarks I see for 1440p, the difference is very little (due to lower shaders).

I personally don't see the need for 6GB even on 1440p for atleast 2 years. Am I right in my assessment? The price difference between the two is $50 for me. That may not sound like much, but as I'm going for value, every dollar counts. My only reason for not pulling the trigger right now is bit of conflict whether 6GB will make a difference or not.

Help me, I want to hear your opinion. What games do you personaly play that require 6GB

gta v uses just under 4 gb of vram at worst conditions, i went with the rx 480 4gb over the 1060 3gb. hopefully it lasts 2 years

but Canadian pricing is fucked.

Thanks for the input, but here's my thought.

GTAV runs LOT better on 1060 3G than 480 8GB

Roughly 20% better. Even if RX480 8G did 10% overclock (rare) 1266 -> ~1393, it still wouldn't translate that into 10% in game. On top of that the 1060 3G can also overclock additional 10-20% as well.

Keep those comments coming, I want to see how valid they are before I can get a better picture.

Building a computer for my brother, did I do fine?
> GPU: Asus GeForce CUDA GTX1060 DUAL 6GB DDR5 192BIT DV/2HDMI/2DP (a lot cheaper than the other 1060's I could find in my country)
>CPU: Intel Core i5-6400 2.70GHz, 1151, VGA
>Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S s1151 4DDR4 USB3.0 ATX
>RAM: HyperX DDR4 HyperX Fury Black 8GB/2666 CL15
>Power Supply: XFX Core XT 500W (80+ Bronze, 2xPEG, 120mm, Single Rail)
>Case: Corsair Carbide SPEC- 01 MID-Tower BLACK/RED LED/GAMING (my brother really liked the look of it)
>SSD: SanDisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2,5" 530/400 MB/s SATA3
>HDD:Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 3.5'' SATAIII 64MB 7200rpm
>Monitor: Philips 21.5'' 227E6EDSD IPS-ADS DVI HDMI MHL

No cpu cooler for now, but my brother will get one when he has the cash.

I was wondering the same thing when buying my HD 7850. 1 GB seemed more than enough back in the day and I wasnt sure if I ever needed 2GB for anything. I decided to go for the better model and I havent regretted that decision. Even though it's getting really underpowered now the extra VRAM allows me to crank up textures quite high.

See if you can lower the mobo a bit and make room for a 256GB SSD.

R8 this build that I'm doing for some Jewish teenager and his Razer fetishism
pcpartpicker.com/list/tg66QV
I still have money left over for his budget, but not enough to put a custom watercooling loop in (like fuck am I going to offer maintenance for this kike).

And guess which Swiss MILF Overwatch character he wants to base his rig on. I'm deliberately ruining it with RGB LEDs because fuck this spoiled kike.

That is my worry, right now, we're at the edge of DX12 and higher end games that would use more ram for future VR games.

But thats also banking on the "wait for the future", in which case, AMD would be the winner in that case.

However, 1GB to 2GB was quite different than 3->4GB or 3->6/8GB. The diminishing return starts to hit. Even fury with its 4GB can outstrip the 8GB rx480 easily at higher resolutions.

Alright, thanks for the input. At worse, I'm looking at downgrading the textures for future tittles in 1440p. I'm going 1060 3GB seems like.

>you can't communicate well
>this is poor bait

So you accept a job and then deliberately do a shitty job. You are what's wrong with the world and are just the worst kind of people. I hope you get kicked in the cunt someday.

I shit you not, his dad is willing to blow up to $8k for his son's first desktop PC. The kid has two Razer laptops and all the tacky gaymer-cool apparel you can think of. That's why I can't really swap out the stuff outside of his computer (except the monitors, but last I checked, Razer doesn't make any gaming monitors).
And I don't get his white-and-orange fetishism since it fucking clashes so horribly with Razer's black-and-green. I even offered to build his a stealth black-and-green system (using the Phanteks P300S or whatever), but the spoiled kike wanted white-and-orange because of his Swiss waifu. Fuck it. If Cred Forums met his father, they'd immediately shift into Hitler overdrive and gas him on the spot. He's trying to weasel his way out of paying for the software installation and set-up time (they want me to install everything in his room INCLUDING cable management outside the case) and he's already tried to bring down my no-negotiation commission for building the system.
The guy is a kike through and through. He's trying to cheat his way out of paying me for physical labor putting this shit in his kid's room and doing all the post-build work that I charge extra for (like wiring ethernet around the house, external hardware installation, non-OS software installation and optimization, etc). I don't understand how he thinks he can sneak around a work contract we both signed before I even started finding parts for his kid.

I am about to pull the trigger, any, if all, suggestions will be appreciated. I don't want to have a lack of meticulousness and easily fuck up this build.

pcpartpicker.com/list/z9PzPs

On a side note, should I cut some price for the 6600k? Although, I cant get the 1070 without going WAY over the 1000 dollar budget.

is it for gaming? i7 is overkill. I'd get an i5 6500 and H series motherboard, and put cash into the GPU (for a GTX1070).

Ditch the extra fan and get a better PSU.

>monoprice.com/product?p_id=16392
If you're feeling bit adventerous, there's this. With proper biios, you can overclock it just liek 6700k.

Read up on skylake clocked cpu overclock and which motherboard supports it (current one might, just google search) and which bios. Check compatibility issues as well.

If stars align, you'll save $90 on "same" CPU.

Guys, need your opinions. Should i buy a MSI GTX 970 SLi? Someone is selling it for 280 euro's.

ncixus.com/products/?usaffiliateid=1000031504&sku=104719&promoid=1009

amazon.com/dp/B00L1FLJXK/?tag=pcpapi-20

Like these?

I ment to say 380 euro, correction!

here you go:
pcpartpicker.com/list/FN8jnn

There's no sense in spending $8k on a computer.

Computer parts, especially these days, aren't built to last. Typically they fail after 3 years when the warranty is up due to some stupid fault like a leaking capacitor on the motherboard or a mosfet on the video card that has one broken microscopic circuit.

>the i7 is overkill for gaming maymay
A lot more CPU dependant games are being released.

If you dont do videoediting, 3d design or hpc stuff you dont need a i7 its a waste of money also dont buy the flatcpufan buy the blockcooler

The 970 isn't a good card to SLi because of the VRAM issues, and it's only like 20% cheaper than a pair of brand new 970s would cost. I probably wouldn't buy it.

name one (excluding poorly optimised shit) that would bottleneck an i5 6500 when paired with 16Gb of RAM and a GTX 1070

Well, if your dad owns several office buildings in lower Manhattan and LIC, then you kind of can afford to do that.

Well this is true for cheap stuff you buy if you spend some money and buy quality it will hold a long long time my old pc is now 6yrs and still works for my lil bro

GTA V & ARMA III.

There are like 2games that need much cpu one is arma3 and the other one is gta5 because its a trashy console port but even without a i7 they will run smooth

>not had a desktop in years
>last build was a socket 775 with AGP
>havingafamilycostsmoney.png

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/CcgGPs

This is my build-it-now-upgrade-it-later idea.
Any pointers or slapdowns? Been out of the game for years and also a poorfag

From what I have read, the i5 to i7 preformance on average is negligible.

But when it comes to the frame drops, usually the i7 is 20-30% better.

Just save longer dont buy this shit its trash and a waste of money

lol you'll get more frame drops gaming with a shittier gpu

>excluding poorly optimised shit

What is: upgrading later.

I know for a fact the i7-6700k will last much longer then the i5-6600k, and I am more willing to go in the long run, and only have to upgrade the gpu, and if kaby lake is a huge success, and I need to upgrade (which I find is unlikely due to the incremental improvements intel does) I can go to that.

Besides, the Rx 480 preforms very similarly to the R9 390x/390/290x, which are all very great cards, and in the recent benchmarks especially when Vulkan and or DX12 gets properly implemented, this card should last a good amount of time.

>excluding a good argument
Nice strawman reddit.

Muh frame drops meme, in the few few games were this is a problem it doesnt matter because its a optimising problem

Go for single 8GB DDR4(later on add another if 16GB feels like its deserved) , higher the ram speed better, as long as it stays within your price range. Difference between 2133 and 3000 Mhz can be 10-20% depending on your game/shit. But the pricing may simply be few more sterlings. Easily the cheapest upgrade that gives most performance.

Where's the GPU? Why 650w power supply? Your current build can even run on 200w PSU. Don't buy OS, pirate it. There's 0 reason to buy an OS when you can pirate it so easy these days. Also, why Z (overclocking) mobo? Do you intend to overclock the i3? you can't with standard procedure, skylakes could be overclocked with proper bios update/mobo support, but that requires bit of research. CD/DVD writer in 2016? Get USB instead.

I agree with you, but games do actually use those extra threads.

The future seems bright.

>CPU
The T SKUs are low power version, no reason to not get a regular 6100 instead
>MOBO
You're getting mATX motherboard with ATX case. Generally you can get the same features but lower price/better quality if you get a full-sized motherboard
>PSU
Unless you're planning to crossfire two 200W GPUs, 650W is overkill and will only end up wasting electricity. 450W will be plenty even if you add a high-end GPU later.

>will only end up wasting electricity

That's not how PSUs work tho.

de.pcpartpicker.com/list/fk44pb
#roastme you autistic mongs.

>German
Your country is a living meme.

>I know for a fact the i7-6700k will last much longer then the i5-6600k
No, you actually don't know.

The 80+ ratings only take into account power draw at 20% of the capacity or higher, and the efficiency is generally crap at below and best at around 50-80%.

Get the EVGA G2 650w instead.

Aren't we all?

Seasonic>anything else.

Saving for gpu at later date because cash money and the dvd drive because of shitload of old games i have close to my heart not played in years.

PSU was guesstimating the future.

Picked the board mainly for the ram speed it supported and plus built in wireless.

Cpu would get upgraded later in the future, hence cheapy for now

Just don't.

Fuck a duck it didnt have the built in wireless. Nevermind

Can I get some comments on this quite budget build.

pcpartpicker.com/list/mLCDjc

Also getting a Gelid Solution Tranquillo rev. 3 for a CPU cooler, but couldn't find it on the pcpartpicker.com.

Why are you getting DDR3 RAM?

Looks good.

>DDR3
>5900RPM HDD
Why?

Good taste (Noctua, Seasonic, Gigabyte UD).

Any tips?
pcpartpicker.com/list/yfPgnn

Don't do this.
Get the cheapest mobo and the best CPU you can afford.
That way you are already enjoying better performance from the start, and the truth is, when your time for a CPU upgrade comes, most likely the platform would be already obsolete.

Source: Been buying the best Mobos / mid tier CPUs for years, and realized it the hard way.

Also, go for single 8GB stick, and PSU is way overkill

The router at my place is in a location where I cant connect my tower im building to a wired connection
What are my options

EoP

Powerline if you live in an actual house and not an apartment.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

Whats an eop
And i do live in an apartment

>and your country
>.com extension , USD
Video editing and gaming.
I might switch to a gold rated PSU to lower the cost a bit.
>having a budget
Ethernet-over-power

Thanks, you think there's some room for improvement/lowering the price? I kinda don't want to spend that much, but then again.. quality costs.

Might look into that, never thought of it from that viewpoint

Not all Z170s allow you to use it, it's hit and miss whether it'll work with your mobo unless they sent out some huge XMP compatibility bios update

128GB will get used up immediately and a 2.5" 5400 rpm drive is flat out retarded. That's basically the absolute worst type of HDD possible

I just copypasted OP because you didn´t read it.

Ok you videoedit much and want to game so an i7 is ok.

pcpartpicker.com/list/PXn8QV here is new list,
I switched the fans to phantek because the cpufan is only like 0,5-0.8°C "worse" under max load but cost 30$less and is also very quiet same goes for casefans. You can also choose other colors with phantek, i think its blue/red/white/black you can choose from for cpu and casefans so you can make it look good inside you case too.
Switchted to a samsung SSD because they are the best.
Rest of the stuff is great and psu is best on market so you can´t go better atm.

>higher CAS

>higher cas
nigger what the fuck is your problem

Any improvements you can think of? Also, I already have the Titan XP.

PCPartPicker part list: pcpartpicker.com/list/kprYd6
Price breakdown by merchant: pcpartpicker.com/list/kprYd6/by_merchant/

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($204.98 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($92.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel 750 Series 400GB PCI-E Solid State Drive ($299.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: NVIDIA Titan X (Pascal) 12GB Video Card
Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($53.88 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($109.98 @ My Choice Software)
Monitor: Asus ROG SWIFT PG278Q 27.0" 144Hz Monitor ($659.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1975.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-25 15:00 EDT-0400

and for you too because you are also to stupid to read OP

lways state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

Forza 6 constantly uses 90% of my 6600K

So it doesn't REALLY matter if i get a 480 or 1060, right?

>the i7 will last much longer than the i5
>If Kaby lake is a huge success
>i7 are LITERALLY just i5's with HT
>Kaby Lake is already confirmed as nothing exciting at all

>overclocking ram is the cheapest upgrade
yeah, maybe
>with the most performance
That right there is absolute bullshit and nothing else

I'm sorry. Don't be rude, though.

>Purpose
Gaming and streaming in 1440p at max settings in everything from MOBA to FPS. Light video editing.
>Budget
$3500 (Not including my Titan XP)
>Country
USA

>PCIe SSD
Just get a M2 NVMe SSD, they're much cheaper and use the exact same data protocol, while not eating up your PCIe slot and costing much less. I got my Intel 600p 512GB M2 for nearly half that price
Your monitor is a meme, but I guess I wouldn't know what to pair with a Titan XP with... Look for 4K 60Hz?
Looks good otherwise, how big is that liquid cooler radiator? A 240mm radiator will always do better than a smaller surface area radiator

>going full gaymur RoG

>CPU
OK

>CPU Cooler AiO
don´t buy this shit get a Aircooler(phantek/noctuna) or buy from a real vendor who knows his Watercooling shit aka EK ekwb.com/shop/aio Motherboard
Rog meme board, do you really need it or is it just for the looks? if for looks ok your taste that matters here if you want the features get a real oc board for the same or get a normal z170 that works too

>Storage
Pci-e ssd its fast as fuck but i think you can´t boot from it not to sure.
No HDD ?

>Video Card
Titan X(P) ok but you don´t want to leave it with its stock cooler because it will throttle on heavy use get a waterblock for it(costum watercooling loop) or look into options of getting a costum air cooler for it(there are options).

>PSU
No power supply?


1060 better @dx11, 480 better @d12 appart from that no doesn´t matter

Not him, but question remains.. Memelake now or Babby Lake next year? I'll be getting an i5 if that matters.

You can boot from PCIe, but due to some kind of bios startup delay or something you won't get any speedier boots over a sata connection (if that sata connection was PCIe speeds)

doesn´t matter meme lake is like 3-4% more ipc if you want to wait for that do it....

According to Intel's own marketing material? There's no IPC improvement at all, Kaby Lake is just Skylake with slightly higher clocks.

Just get the skylake desu. Or you can wait for Zen for a price drop, don't expect a huge increase in performance though either from zen or from kaby lake.

Memelake
Actually, forget that, it doesn't matter. Kaby Lake has the exact same lineup as this generation, with the exact same specs, except new updated low-power laptop CPUs.
Skylake has DDR4 but benchmarks shows that's really not an serious advantage over DDR3
Honestly I would start looking at how much money I can save by going back generations, these CPUs are getting less and less impressive
Maybe see if Zen is cheap?

Thanks for your input!

I was interested in M2. Could you convince me? Is it just as fast as pic-e ssd?

I'm scared to get 4K. I don't run my Titan XP hard since I didn't buy it and would hate to replace it if it craps out.

The radiator is 280mm.

The question no longer remains I already said its confirmed as another year of intels same old shit

I have to wait until nov/dez anyways because i have no time to bother myself with this.
Let's say Kaby comes in January and doesn't give me a good performance increase, should i wait and hope for a significant price drop regardless or buy in nov/dez?
>AMD Zen
Yeah.. no, thanks, but no. I don't want to wait for Zen to come out in late 2030.

M2 is just PCIe 3.0 x4 on a specific slot. It may have a lower theoretical bandwidth than a PCIe 3.0 x8, but in real use its exactly as fast.
And it's so god damn adorable I think it's the smallest visible PCB on my computer
I got the Intel 600p because dealz, but the Samsung 950 pro is faster and hotter and more expensive if that's more your thing

Intel never drops prices even when they release new generations. Or if they do it's VERY small. If you're unwilling to wait for zen then just buy when you have the money or maybe if it's like a month tops or so till release and you wanna wait for 5% extra computing power

>Intel
>price drops

There will only be any price drops if Zen is actually good. And even then only maybe.

I mean the Samsung 960 pro, forgot that exists now

I'd really like to go with AMD once again but RX wasn't quiet what i expected and Zen.. it's getting memed left and right, but will it really come out soon, will it hold up to our expectations?

>custom water cooling

I respect your advice, but I'm not up for all of that. The reviews for the corsair coolers show a decent temps, so I will tell you that for now, I'm "settling" with that.

>Rog meme board

I don't need it, of course. I was thinking more about the faster memory channels. Any further advice for that?

>No HDD ?

I have them in my old computer. It's dead, right now and I can't remember what kind they are. 7200 RPM is all I can think of. Should I get a SATA SSD as a boot drive?

>Stock Cooler on Titan XP

You are absolutely correct and was considering modding it. What do you suggest? Like I said, custom really isn't possible for me right now.

>PSU

I have no idea what to get. The wattage for all of these parts is about 450W according to PCPP.

My nigger I just told you the expectations. It will be close to the same IPC with Broadwell. Which is great IMHO, some people want more. The only thing they can possible offer is VALUE, that means maybe a lower price for same performance intel (but this time in higher range processors unlike the FX) and cores.

The expectation is that zen will be 2nd place
I think it might actually hold up that claim

The only thing we can hope for from zen is medium-end desktop CPUs that don't need to cost $300 to handle gaymen

I'm always rather sceptical and paranoid when it comes to tech..
Anyways, I sincerely hope AMD will make a comeback in the CPU market. Giving Intel the monopoly is bad, best example will be Kaby Lake.
And if AMD makes a comeback i can wave my AMD lanyard from Gamescom 2008 (i believe) around like a true autist.
Let's hope at least one will compete directly with the i5-6600.

Say I'm a crazy motherfucker that wants my gayming rig to have a 6x6TB RAID array in addition to a 1TB SSD boot drive.

Do I look for a motherboard with a shitload of SATA ports or do I go M.2?

i am
m.2 x4 its basicly the same real world speed samsung 950pro or intel stuff is the gear you want here

also like i said don´t buy shity AiO from meme companys like corsair. If you really want an AiO and don´t want to spent the 700-900€ for a costum loop look for cpu/gpu get the EK AiO. EK is one of the best(in my opinion the best) Watercooling producer one the market. The temps are not the problem corsair water cooler are only like 2°C better than Noctuan aircoolers btw. they the risk they that they leak/fail after some time and I would not trust anybody appart from pros in watercooling with my gear.


also 1440p 144hz is ok but if you play many shooters like cs:go everything gets smaller aswell so you could cripple yourself with high res.
4k@60 is ok for normal games like gta/witcher/deusex/doom/etc were ultra high fps doens´t matter that much.
Also you have to remeber twitch max res is 1080p60fps (you need really high upload for that) so you maybe want a capture card too (many big streamer use a 2nd pc to render their stuff for twitch)
1080p@144 + 4k@60 maybe good but its pretty much up to you

>HDD
well I have both a pc with ssd boot and with a fast sata3 hdd @7.2krmp and and about 1sec boot difference so in my opinion it doesn´t matter for booting. I ratter use my ssd space for games were is actualy matters.

>GPU cooler
hrm i think EVGA works on a Hyrbid cooler and but atm there is something like Accelero Xtreme which are always goood (reddit.com/r/nvidia/comments/4z6m3y/what_is_the_best_aftermarket_air_cooler_for_titan/)


>PSU
if you buy so much expensive shit just get the good stuff aka SeaSonic Prime 650w(if you OC your titan later you need more power same goes for CPU intel gets very inefficent with OCing)

Guys, is this normal?
EVGA Bronze 450w PSU.

24 pin won't go all the way in, the support team told me it was okay, but I'm not too sure about that.

>Replace that 2.5" hdd with a 3.5"
Is there something to be said for 3.5" over 2.5"?

if you didnt put it in the wrong side than it should be ok with the clip is cliped in

2.5" mechanical drives are usually aimed at the laptop market, meaning they put power efficiency above performance.

Hello /pcbg/!

I found myself an old Dell XPS in the garbage bin. It was sikk heavy and dusty. Full of hardware, haven't cleaned it nor tested it.

So is the case still usable, you think?

holy shit I did write like a retard....

>bought an R9 Fury for 300 €
>just sold my old R9 290 for 167 € on ebay

Would you consider this (spur of the moment) upgrade cost-effective? It's still only 4 GB but I'm hoping to be prepared for at least 2 years of reasonably pretty 1080p games.

Try putting it in the other way round like said. You might just have put it in the wrong way, it does make a click if insertet correctly.

Anyone have experience with the Asus X99-A? Looking for a relatively cheap X99 motherboard and I'm thinking that it's probably my best bet. From Canada if it makes a difference

Nah, I didn't put it in the wrong way.

The small clip that goes over the lip on the mobo port is just sitting on top of it because that 1mm gap.

If I try to press down harder on it, it'll either break the mobo(not that big of a deal, only 60 bucks), or I won't be able to get it out.

But yeah, i've also been told to just wiggle it around.

>1mm
just grind it down so it fits no bigy

RotTR requires "MORE THAN 4GB" for the ultra texture options. Honestly though I'm not sure how capable the 8GB 390/470/480/6GB 1060 are. I know that the 390 tanks when using Mirror's Edge Catalyst's Hyper setting, which is for cards with >4GB VRAM.

My thought is that I'll probably upgrade my 4GB 470 before the VRAM really becomes and issue, but I'm playing at 1080p. Personally I think the 3GB 1060 is fine at 1080p. Not so sure about 1440p.

Here's one example. Granted, it's a remaster. The difference in textures for 3GB vs 4GB are small, but quite obvious between 2GB and 3GB.

its 140€ so I say its pretty fine.

its hbm 4gb which is ok because its much faster.

How bad is cheaping out in a motherboard?

Im planning to get a MSI Z97 PC Mate because budget problems.
Should i save and get a ASUS Z97-A USB 3.1 or cheap out and get a GA-B85M-D3H?

CPU is I5-4460.

But Muh Worronty...

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated:

pcpartpicker.com/list/3vhmCy

Noctua HSF, NH-U14S or better.

>But Muh Worronty...
>it'll either break the mobo(not that big of a deal, only 60 bucks

tought you don´t care but yes worronty goes away with grinding.

Btw the gab is not really a problem aslong the pc works everything is connected.

see

Better HSF, smaller PSU and no gaymin mobo.

Mexico btw.

>i7
>1080
>32 GB RAM

Don't cheap out on the cooler, the 212 is a solid recommendation if you're on a tighter budget but the Noctua >14cm cooler are just superior. You might want to look at slightly smaller, higher efficiency PSUs but EVGA is good (although SeaSonic still trumps them imho).

purpose: gaming and machine learning (I know a titan is probably better for machine learning),

Country: Netherlands/Europe

Budget: around 2500 max, if possible 2000€

Thanks, will look into it!

Suggestions for a better motherboard?

I think you're fine, but I'd say the Fury is overkill for 1080p. It's built as a 4K card. You're never going to need that bus width. Pick up a 1440p monitor and you done good.

Eh, just bite the bullet and spend the $60 on a nice case like the Corsair 200R. Depends on what components you want to put in there. Also note that the mobo might not have a standard form factor like ATX, which means that screwing in a replacement will be difficult.

1TB m.2 drive will be ridiculously expensive. Gonna need a shitload of SATA ports anyway.

GA-Z170X-UD5

You can have both with any mATX or ATX board. B150 or higher.

Just get a RAID controller card.

Mobo HSF: Noctua "the big poo" NH-D15
PSU: 650W EVGA or SeaSonic
Another thing.. do you really need such a big full tower case?

Is this a decent 1070 GPU?
pic related
item.jd.com/10437929436.html

I'm in China and imports are taxed at 20% plus general markup so getting Chinese versions is much, much cheaper. And not all models get imported.

E.G. EVGA 08G-P4-6276-KR is $459 in US and $543 in China.

Assuming those stats aren't complete lies, how bad can this card suck?

FWIW: JD is a pretty reputable site in China, so the card should be what it claims to be. It's basically Amazon, not AliExpress or Ebay.

It comes with a free 120gb ssd which is better than a slap in the face I guess but I was going to buy a bigger one.

>08G-P4-6276-KR
Yes.
Hi china user.

>Free SSD
Where?

Hows this:
pcpartpicker.com/list/d7qBqk

Any comments on the Dell S2716DG?

Thanks for the feedback.

Didn't reply to any post about the Fury, although you're right. Having said that, the Fury cannot use Mirror's Edge Hyper mode, so that HBM only goes so far

Depends on any upgrade plans. If you don't plan to multigpu buy an unlocked CPU for that socket in the future, just get a cheap mobo.

Expensive/10. If you really want the 1080 wait for the 1080Ti. It'll blow the 1080 away

That's a pretty high OC. An expensive card if you don't really need it for your resolution or >100FPS

Don't know about chink pricing, but a 120GB SSD is worth about 30USD here

So expensive m8

Looks really good.

Cant tell you about that exact model but Dell makes really good monitors.
If you are lucky enough to get one without bleeding.

Both? My MATX motherboard has 6 Sata slots AND a 1TB M2 drive

OK

>CPU
Not sure how much CPU power you need for ML but i7 should be fine

>CPU cooler
well its oksih but i recoment Phanteks PH-TC14PE or the big poo Noctuna NH-D15 which costs like 30€ more but only gives you like 0.5-1°C better temps on max load( normal both are more or less the same) also the PH comes in cool colors

>Mobo
its fine i think the only better one is the Asus Hero
just to remark both are made for OC so if you don´t want to get a cheap z170 and be done with it

>Ram, HDD/SDD, GPU
are all great don´t need change maybe wait for 1080ti or get a Titan if you want

>Case
full tower is really big maybe look into miditowers if you want taste is what matters here the most

>PSU
Is ok you can also get a Seasonic if you want

2.5" HDD are crap quality laptop drives and the first drives to break
3.5" HDD are actual real HDD-tech HDDs, much bigger in capacity and reliability

>Depends on any upgrade plans. If you don't plan to multigpu buy an unlocked CPU for that socket in the future, just get a cheap mobo.
Other than adding a M2 SSD and a PCIe to 32GB/s adapter, 0 upgrade plans so far.

Get the non TH mobo if you don't ne thunderkek and your case is a literal gayman meme.

>Gonna need a shitload of SATA ports anyway.

Yeah but most boards seem to have 6 or less and I need 7.

I'm grinding the PSU, not the mobo.
Mobo is fine, but the PSU is a diff story.

It's actually 32 Gb/s

I know, i fucked up.

ok made myself a tripcode

why grind the psu if the mobo is the problem?
>The small clip that goes over the lip on the mobo port is just sitting on top of it because that 1mm gap.


if the clip is on top you need to grind the mobo to make it fit

ML is mostly GPU, already added the NH-D15

Actually have use for thunderbolt, so I choose that board on purpose. Like this case better? You were right, the last one looked like edgy ass.
pcpartpicker.com/list/W43mCy

I'd bump it up to the i5 6500 or drop to an i3 6100. If you're never planning to upgrade to an unlocked CPU, you can get an H170 mobo.
A CPU cooler isn't needed. Stock will be fine.
As the logicalincrements guy said, get a 250GB SSD.

>08G-P4-6276-KR
That's not the GPU I'm looking at, just an example of pricing.

Where is the free SSD or where am I?
I'm in Inner Mongolia, the SSD is listed in the top info part but you'll have to translate it, it's just a 120gb sata ssd.

>That's a pretty high OC. An expensive card if you don't really need it for your resolution or >100FPS
They're ALL expensive here, it's about the cheapest 1070 I could find. I'll want it though, already ordered a 140hz 1440 gsync IPS so I want to drive that at max. I can afford to drop some cash, I just want to drop it on the right things.

>2.5" HDD are crap quality laptop drives and the first drives to break
>3.5" HDD are actual real HDD-tech HDDs, much bigger in capacity and reliability
Good to know.

>tfw fell for the SSD meme

you changed the mobo away for them orginal one
>like the case better
well you buy it, so it doesn´t matter if I like it, personal I would go for one of Phantek Evolv cases but thats me.
>Seasonic psu
good good pic related(not paid by seasonic but somebody called me a seasonic shill some threads ago so I tought I meme it now)

Making a light workstation, how is this?
pcpartpicker.com/list/Gn4Bqk

>tfw fell for the SSD meme 3 years ago and never looked back
The botnet never was faster

I assume the 1080 means you'll also be using it for gaming? Why two 240GB SSDs and not a single 480GB one?

>X99
I know the 6800K is dank buts that's a lot of money to spend over a Z170 board

>case is a literal gayman meme
It could be worse.

>I know the 6800K is dank buts that's a lot of money to spend over a Z170 board
Speaking of X99 boards, I need to choose one.

I don't really know what the comparators for mobos are, what should I look for?

Expensive as hell

>tfw meming becomes a meme

Does the girl is made out cooper and painted with heat resisting paint and works as a HSF?

Otherwise the PVC would melt eventually.

>CPU
ok.jpg
>cpufan
ok too
>Mobo
maybe look into the Asrockk X99 Taichi which has the best space management for X99 and top quality buildquality
or MSI X99A Raider but I recomment a soundcard because the soundchip is meh on it rest is good.
>Ram
dualchannel on a quadchannel cpu?

>SSD/HDD
THE SSD are for raid 0/1 i guess? get samsung or crucial if you want to save some money, samsung is the best on the market atm.

Switch the blue to a red or a black WD if you do workstation load on it.

>GPU
for the love of god don´t buy reference cooler design EVER. I recomment EVGA 1080(or just wait for 1080ti)

>psu
its ok, but if you want to use it 24/7 look into platinum/titanium cert PSU (Seasonic prime is good)

maybe want to add 2-3 case fans

Same story for me. My Asus Z170 Deluxe provides acceptable wireless speeds though. Slightly faster then powerline (although this might just be because the house I'm in is old).

Just buy a storage server. It will be cheaper and easier on your sanity in the long run.

Putting anime figureines inside your build during guts shots is a meme. I don't think he is actually going to run the machine with his waifu inside. That being said, they do make "polystone" waifus these days.

wops just saw its a MSI X99S SLI Plus its really good too. so its just the taichi vs the sli plus. I recomment some google searching for it

pcpartpicker.com/list/wKR4pb
yes I have a lot of money to spend on stupid shit

any feedback?

could swear you already posted your build once in this very thread

also why does nobody read OP? why do we write this stuff if people just ignore it...
let me ask this first befor I answer:

>could swear you already posted your build once in this very thread
nope, first time posting

purpose is mostly vidya and general use
budget is max $2500
country is hun

>pcpartpicker.com/list/wKR4pb
Gayman ok

>CPU
get a i5

>mobo do you need one that is so expensive aka do you need its features?

>Storage
no HDD ?

>PSU
Hurdur buy seasoni... erm evga g2 its fine

I forgot to tell you that you might want 2-3 additional Casefans because of you gpu

>tfw fell for the pajeets

1 TB is more than enough

Look like you didn´t uninstall your nvidia drivers correct. Also i get this error with my nvidia gpu sometimes too, specialy if i play some old as fuck games

Wait, wait, I'm doing it again-

It's the PSU that's having trouble fitting, the mobo is fine.

Other than that, that's it.

but honestly, I'm going to buy some extra parts then see if I can plug the thing in again.

lets try it like that
look at the picture, the is the clip from the cable and the lip from the mobo connector.

The Clip as to go over the Lip if it doesn´t just grind the Lip a bit shorter so it fits.
Aslong the pc gets power it doesn´t matter if the cable is completly inside aslong the clip holds it on place.
Hope I could explain it understandable

Oh, That makes a lot of sense.

I guess I could do that, but considering how hard it was to get it removed last time, doubt I'll need it.

Just worried the pins might not reach or something, but I guess we'll find out in a week or so.

Thanks user!

Well, I wont get that insane gaming rig anytime soon. Will probably open it for shit and giggles.

>hard to remove
uhm that really sounds like you did stick in the wrong way could you make a picture with both sides please just to sure

Unless you're a professional video editor who really needs the extra time hyperthreading will shave off of your rendering time because you do it for 8 hours a day
you don't need hyperthreading.

If you really want to spend that extra money, treat yourself and a friend to a meal at a fancy restaurant, you'll be much more satisfied.

just built this baby. shes running fast as fuck and pretty cold.

You can see on the bottom of the mobo where the white outline is.

It's an MSI H110M ECO mobo.

>Corsair + Rog
meh im not into the meme builds but it looks good and clean also wrong thread this belongs into the /guts/ thread

And that's the back of it.

At that time, it wasn't too hard to remove, but before that it was like glue.

Happens on Win10 with my 4GB 470 as well. Hoping the latest drivers have fixed all the Wattman crashes, my screen going blank, etc.

Personally I don't mind people posting completed builds.. it shows anons where people actually put their money.

Clearly that user doesn't have a gf

just looked good to be honest. the maximus is a good overclocking board with a great BIOS. and i managed to get my I-5 6600k stable at 4.7ghz without peaking over 64C at full load.

try pushing the 20+pin on the right side between the 20pin and the 4ppin a bit, looks like the 20p and the 4p jamed each other. also put 2 fingers under/on the mobo while pushing it so you don´t break it.
try to push in the 4p a bit and then push the 20p again works sometimes

>>tfw meming becomes a meme
It's the "fell for the X meme, meme". I was going to make some meta-meme pic based on it for the next build thread.

Something being a meme doesn't mean its something bad by Cred Forums standards.

A meme tech piece here is just something that has a lot to talk about.

I have the possibility to get two 1080 premium palits for a total of 900$.Am I retarded wanting to sli them and not sticking with a single card for 300$ less?

Should I drive an hour or so to get to the nearest microcenter (Fairfax) or order all my parts online?

Does anyone here have any idea when the next generation of GPUs will come out?

Should I get a 3GB 1060 or a 6GB 1060 for a 1080P 60FPS monitor? Going to buy my parts tomorrow

let me look into my magic marbel ...mhh..ahhh..ohhh..yesyes....
the marbel showed me that the release date is soon™

>POOlaris was such a fucking failure that AMD is scrambling to replace it with Vega 11
Next spring. Volta won't even come out until 2018

Doesn't really matter. If you have an extra 50 bucks sitting around get the 6GB

Price check, probably online.

Not sure what the value of your currency is, but if you're getting a really good deal just resell at least one for profit if not both.

1060 6G or RX480 if it doesn't stress your budget, otherwise 1060 3G or RX470. The 1060 3G is gimped and cucked to the max, though.

I'm looking to upgrade from an old as fuck GTX 480. Newegg has GTX 960s at 33% off, so I'm tempted to get one. Is the "meme card" criticism real? What's wrong with them?

1060 3gb is not an option its trash

2gb are nothing in this day and age also they are like 190-220$, a 470 costs the same and is much better

Is this a good build to transfer my 980 Ti to?
pcpartpicker.com/list/4zpzPs

PSU too expensive.
Get a NH-U14S or NH-D15 instead.

pcpartpicker.com/list/gJkWcc

Is my build good senpai?

What's a great blu-ray drive that can handle 4k? Do they exist yet?

4k, in my opinion, isn't quite worth it yet. It takes away too many frames for the visual benefits.

is the Rx 480 any good?

Whats stopping me from buying a 980 at around the same price?

How so, nigga? I actually don't have a 4k screen either, but I've been reading articles that the 4k subsampling makes the picture on a 1080 monitor even better than a 4k.

4K monitors have extremely low refresh rates. I'd rather have 1080p@144hz than 4k.

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card
Case: Rosewill Challenger S ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

This good?

I feel ya. That's why I want a 4k blu-ray drive.

Get the 6600k unless you actually need hyper threading.

>6700k

>Gigabyte GA-H170-GAMING 3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

If you get an unlocked cpu, get a z170 mobo, otherwise get a 6700 (non k)

Looks alright, but honestly that SSD is just stupid. Get reasonable storage (250-500GB SSD and a HDD) and use the money you saved on an i7 if it's burning a hole in your pocket

I doubt that you need that i7, just drop to an i5 6500 or even an i3 6100 and buy a 250GB SSD for your OS and a few games

Z170 is for overclockers, H170 is for mGPU, and H110 is basic. Pick the one you need. If you stick with the Z170 get 3000MHz RAM. If you're never planning to mGPU get a cheaper 550W PSU

i5 6500 will prevent me from playing games such as doom.

First time PC builder here what is the best video/website to use that shows how to put everything together?

You must be joking m8

There isn't a go to video AFAIK. So many vids out there

I'm looking to upgrade my CPU and have an AM3 board, so I'm going to have to get MOBO/CPU/RAM from scratch.

Should I get a basic bitch FX-8350 or an i5-6600(k)?

I'm a budget builder, and I'll be using budget cards like the 1060. But because this is budget, I thought I'd get a CPU that will last me years down the line when I upgrade my GPU again beyond the 1060.

Looking at benchmarks, the FX-8350 is fine for a 1060 but starts to bottleneck a bit with the Titan X at max settings.

Basic Bitch FX-8350 build - $241.42
pcpartpicker.com/list/NZRX7P

Basic Bitch i5-6600 build - $313.96
pcpartpicker.com/list/HGt3rH

Price difference: $72.54 (About a day's wage at a shitty minimum wage job. Go ahead, laugh.)

youtube.com/watch?v=YySa723VD2Y
good way to start

This is my computer setup as it is now.

What is the first thing I should add, remove or replace?

get the 6500 if you want to lower the price gap

6600 is fine, but i wouldnt think the non k is worth it.

either 6500 or 6700 (which is out of question)

youtube.com/watch?v=TnyoJtv9Cx0

>I'm a budget builder, and I'll be using budget cards like the 1060. But because this is budget, I thought I'd get a CPU that will last me years down the line when I upgrade my GPU again beyond the 1060.

I just built a rig with the exact same intentions. I used the 6500.

Even tho I love AMD don´t buy bullldozer anymore they are not worth it in your aspect of useing it for future proofing because they already reached end of product cycle

So we get the i5-6600k(would recomment K because it lasts even longer because OC but also costs more) OR the i5-6500 (the 6600 is not worth it in my opinion)

>Mobo
H110 don´t do that to yourself user, H170 or B150 if you go for the 6500, if you go for the 6600k you get a z170 board.
Btw I would go for H170 because you can upgrade it with M.2 SSD same goes for Z170 but not for the H110 or B150

>Ram
I recomment getting 3000mhz ram because its just better 2133 is on DDR3 level so meh, also 3000mhz is not that much more expensive AND maybe go for 16gb because you pay like 20$ more and double your ram 69$ for 16gb vs 39$ for 8gb

hope I could help

Starting from scratch, I'm building mainly for emulation and to escape my shitty laptop. No real budget, but staying under $1400 is preferable.
pcpartpicker.com/list/NpJgnn

Also, what is the difference between the G2 and GS PSU?

first an SSD for your games because thats a major speed enchantment and
get a new GPU (i recomment RX 480 but 1060 is fine too) and your PSU is trash,its one of the older gens it most likely won´t support the amps needed for the newer cards so you need a new gpu and psu.

If you buy something on 1080 level your cpu will be the bottleneck, but a SSD and a 480/1060 will boost your fps a great deal and make load times really low.
If you want more get a completly new pc

Are you sure that's the case you need/want? The board doesn't need more than a mid-tower, and you could get a nice mid-tower case for half the price.

I bought a fulltower, and I frankly regret it, especially because it's funky plastic (like that case is), when I could've gotten an all or mostly metal midtower for the same or less.

I know it's tempting to "leave room for upgrades", but seriously consider if you will ever buy an oversized motherboard that needs a full tower.

>corsair RAM
Get a mid tower case.

Addendum:
Also check out the 212 EVO cooler to save a few more bucks there as well. Even if you OC, you won't need more cooling than the 212 EVO gives you.

Take the few bucks from that, the money you save getting a slimmer case, and spend it on HDD storage capacity, or just save it.

>Also, what is the difference between the G2 and GS PSU?
copypasta from 10sec googlesearch because i am to lazy to write it down.

the new 850GS is based on Seasonic's popular and excellent KM3 platform. the GS is physically smaller than the G2, optimized for quiet operation (even though the G2 is very quiet IMO) and has a few more pci-e cables than the G2 (too many for an 850 watt unit IMO). the G2 has a longer warranty. if choosing between them generally go with whichever is cheaper at the moment. if you like the 10 year warranty the G2. if you have a mid tower case an would like a regular sized psu, the GS.

Get a G2 or buy a real seasonic psu instead to get full warrenty of 10yrs
Seasonic produces the best PSU parts on the market, nearly all PSU makers buy parts from them even Corsair.

>mobo
is fine

>ram
corsair ram meme....44$... just get 16gb of ram only cost like 20$ more for a double up.

>full atx tower
i recomment a medi tower full atx towers are fucking huge

>Razer mouse
don´t do that man don´t buy razer they are trash and will break in one year.


Depending on what you emulation and progs you use 480 maybe better also 480 is better at dx12. Saying this 1060 is fine too ofc but i recomment MSI or EVGA cards (evga has step up if you want to use it)

Anyone know of a cheap full size tower that can fit 2 psu? Or alternatively, does anyone have any clever ideas on modifying a case to fit 2. I've thought about it a bit but I havent come up with a good answer

the Cryorig H7 is much better for the same price

phanteks.com/Enthoo-MiniXL.html

can fit mATX and ITX as well as an ATX PSU and SFX PSU

I don't really know what I'm doing, budget is around $800. Trying to get away from console's and all of their bullshit. Purpose of the build gaming/media center. pcpartpicker.com/list/PjC4pb

That would be great except I have to fit a e-atx mobo in. Thanks though

pcpartpicker.com/list/7QnyWX
Also, checked.

The case looks nice, and that handle on the top certainly is nice for my frequent moves, but if it's as colossal as you say I can cut it.

Thanks for the wall of informative text. I'm definitely out of the loop, but what is wrong with Corsair RAM? Also, should I be too concerned about 2400 vs 3000 RAM?

Corsair RAM is overpriced.

Is a 1070 overkill for 21:9 1080p?

Definitely get the Intel platform. The AM3+ socket is dead. Are you sure you can't flash the bios on your current mobo to support AM3+?

Personally if you are sweating a few dollars I'd get the i3 6100 and a Z170 mobo. You can upgrade to a 6600K or i7 6700K when your i3 isn't performing well enough.

Probably shouldn't reuse the DDR3 RAM with the Intel platform (DDR4), although some boards might be able to use it.

Wait until Zen early next year and then decide between Zen and Kaby Lake. You don't absolutely need to upgrade, especially if you're OC'd

Like the other user said, get a 250GB SSD when you upgrade CPU/mobo

>I recomment getting 3000mhz ram
Doesn't run at 3000MHz on anything but Z170 mobos as far as I'm aware.

Get an i5 6500 or an i3 6100.

Yes, but not a bad card for that purpose.

No.

>Does the girl is made out cooper and painted with heat resisting paint and works as a HSF?
>Otherwise the PVC would melt eventually.
She's water cooled?

>I don't think he is actually going to run the machine with his waifu inside
Not mine, I snagged it off a Chinese site. I just wanted to share the horror.

>AMD driver stopped responding
>Also i get this error with my nvidia gpu sometimes
That's a fucked up error.

Show the socket without the plug in it.

>3GB 1060
Nobody says anything good about the 3GB. Get it if you have to, get 6GB if you have a choice.

Nope, I use one at 3440x1440 just fine.

Nothing wrong with the 3GB 1060 m8. 10% slower and less RAM, but it will get the job done well at 1080p

Would anyone be able to tell me performance and price wise it would be to do two 1070's versus one 1080?

Going to be upgrading in Novemberish and either start with a 1070 or wait a bit more and save for a 1080.

Goal is gaming at 1440p 60hz

>Please, never buy generic or bad PSU. They will fuck your PC, and your life.
AGREED.

Tell your friends if they buy an Apple, Dell or eMachines, their life is in DANGER!!!

techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_1070_Gaming_Z/22.html

1070x2 has higher performance than 1080x1. For 1440p@60, I would recommend the 1080. Far less problems when you are on a single GPU.

>Or alternatively, does anyone have any clever ideas on modifying a case to fit 2
If it doesn't have to look pretty, you could maybe get one into a modified drive bay. Assuming you haven't filled it with drives.

Otherwise, your only bet is probably to sacrifice some PCIe slots or use anywhere that was meant for case fans. Then you have to find somewhere else for case fans though.

You could maybe take the PSU supports/cage from another case and screw/weld it to the side panel, cutting a section to expose the PSU rear. That would let you put it almost anywhere except the edges of the side-panel.

Seems like a bad idea though, are you just avoiding upgrading your PSU?

If you need more W then upgrade, if you need more cables then buy splitters.

A single 1070 is enough for 1440p 60Hz. If you want to mGPU later, get either a H170 or Z170 mobo if you're getting a new 1151 platform.

The 1080 is a horrible purchasing decision, especially considering the 1080Ti is coming out soon.

BTW why haven't you integrated the RX 470 into your site?

good thing to hear welcome soon to the pcmasterrac...oh wait wrong site sorry.
ehm LOL CONSOLE FAG finaly wanting to play all the waifu games WELL come at us

>CPU
get i5-6500

>CPUCOOLER
get Cryorig H7 better for same $$

>MOBO
z170 with non K cpu(intel jews out on cpus and only K marked cpus are overclockable) we dont like that, get H170 (for foture proofing) or b150 chipset for budget mode

>Ram
spent like 25$ more for 16gb its cheap as fuck, also get 3000mhz ram ( you need to activade it in bios if you get Z170, google tells you to do it, its super easy)

>SSD
Samsung if you want the best on market (more expensive) or Cruical for budget

>GPU
get sapphire 480 if you want dx12 power or 1060(evga or msi) for dx11 power. Both are fine, buy the one that is cheaper.
>PSU
Seasonic Platinum 660XP 660W platinum cert for 10$ more or budget EVGA SuperNOVA 550 SuperNOVA G2 550w gold cert for 80$ (1$ more LEL)


>Doesn't run at 3000MHz on anything but Z170 mobos as far as I'm aware.
fug yes I forgot most h170/b150 boards only support 2133MHz, the 3000MHz gets downclocked to 2133MHz.

But as far as I see we will stick with DDR4 for the next years and the price difference is not much so buying for the future is not wrong in my eyes because you can reuse it in your new rig.

>AMD driver stopped responding
>Also i get this error with my nvidia gpu sometimes
>That's a fucked up error.
user pls no troll ofc instead of amd i get nvdia driver stopped responding....

why would you need that? just interessted

I did. When the 1060 3GB came out for the exact same price, and the 470 was $200 instead of the promised $180, it was no longer logical. I will put it back as soon as the price is right.

4GB 470 is definitely an alternative to the 3GB 1060 even if they're both at $200, considering extra RAM and the fact suggesting a 960@$175 is anything but logical

Do you think its early to say if two 1070s would outperform a 1080ti?

techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_1060_Gaming_X_3_GB/26.html

There is a significant performance difference between the 1060 3GB and the 470.

Probably about the same, but SLI/mGPU isn't really that great yet. Maybe with DX12 mGPU things will get better. If you're playing on release day there's almost never support for SLI

woops lul regarding 3000mhz ram and non z170 boards I just looked up intel specs and intel really likes money.... they locked every oc related thing on non z170 boards including ram oc so there are no h170/b150 boards that support 3000MHz, I fucked up on that still I think its not wrong to buy 3000MHz for the future because the price is so low and you can reuse it later when you buy a new pc again with the full power

sup Falcon love you bro

I need all the drives, I'm even adding more in 5.25 Bays which is where I had though of putting some
I'm upgrading to a dual xeon build soon, but I also need a lot of HDD space and expansion space
I have to have 2 psu, going to have 4 gpu and 2 older xeon in this build, and I have to have hdd space, over 10 hdds. I can't move to denser drives either.
For molding I was thinking of turning one sideways, then placing it in front of the other on the floor, so the power cable would come out the side if that makes sense
Also considering the ridiculous stacker case, I'd prefer to fit this in a normal case though. Considering modding the define xl2, seems easy enough. I have to mod other thing anyway since I can't find a case with 11 expansion slots

SSD and PSU are first on my list anyway.

Would it be worth doing crossfire with a cheap 280X instead of getting a whole new card?

I have an old dell optiplex. I want to gut the thing and use the case to build a new computer.

My question is will the old case's design being for old hardware affect new hardware? As in, even though it's a standard ATX case will it suffer from poorer airflow because of the lack of a need for high airflow 13 years ago?

youtube

Case mods, i think those come with air vents in the front or are easy to mod to have an air vent in the front. Either loud or big fan choose wisely, and a 3.5 to 2.5 adapter for your ssd. The compaq and hp cases always had a way to mount a front fan, not sure about dell.

Yeah at stock clocks, because reference is clocked really low, but $200 470s aren't at stock. Any factory overclocked model can reach 1340MHz easily, which is on par with 480 reference.

And that's not taking into account the extra RAM.

Regardless, I'm at a loss as to why you guys still have the 960/380 listed at 175, considering that value proposition is much worse than a 4GB 470, whatever you may say about it. Even your pic shows a 33% increase from 62% from the 380 to 83% for the 470. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that those cards shouldn't be suggested at that price.

Everyone who says building a pc is as easy as legos should fucking kill themselves.

You could try it. CF setups don't really work that well though

LEGOs hard for you m8?

It is.

can you give me a direct ftp access to your hentai/doujin cave once you set it up?

hrm I don´t have that much exp with SLI and Crossfire, maybe know more about that, but I would guess that crossfire/sli is not that great and would provide mircostutter, take it with a grain of salt and google a bit or falcon enlighten us.


you d-d-dirty nvidia shill how dare you
no to be honest are the 470 benches with new drivers or the release ones?
also how does it come that the 3gb ram doesn´t bottleneck the shitout of new some games like GTA V?

building a pc is so easy even monkey could do it, its fucking building legos. Just look into mobo manual to see were to plug stuff into and done

Legos are plastic and usually don't have many moving parts that are prone to breaking by snapping them off. Like Duplos are for toddlers and Legos are for kindergartners. I don't know where Lincoln logs fall, or kinnects, or erector set, or tinkertoys.

>usually don't have many moving parts that are prone to breaking by snapping them off

You don't know a thing about Lego.

>good thing to hear welcome soon to the pcmasterrac...oh wait wrong site sorry.
>ehm LOL CONSOLE FAG finaly wanting to play all the waifu games WELL come at us
Oh shill, you are not nearly salty enough for this thread.

DYETroll?

More seriously though, what atrributes should I look for to choose between X99 mobos?

It is a 1080p card. The 3GB vs 4GB does not seem to make a difference.

Also: I can only go by the benchmarks. If some new cards are released with higher clocks, they need to get benched and prove their performance before I can recommend them. I cannot do "in THEORY, this card will be better, therefore I will recommend it".

It is up to AMD and its AIB partners to get the 470 to its official $180 MSRP. I did not ask them to increase the price, they did it by themselves.

>computers have a lot of moving parts that could snap off or break
Are you retarded?

Actually not for a hentai cave senpai
I'm trying to combine my gaming workstation and nas all in one
So yeah I guess there's some hentai but most of it is for work and games and secure backup of my shit, media work or prawn

pcpartpicker.com/list/d7jBqk
Im going to be able to purchase a new computer soon and i want to be able to game on it for a few years at 1080p. Also, >750ti. Literally anything is better than the HD 7450 i currently have and a buddy of mine said that he would give me his barely used 750ti for the low low price of 3 eragon books. My budget is 800 bucks, how does this look, and what few modifications can i make to it?

meh capacitors the cpu lever, all the tiny pins that hold in a pci card if you start poking at them with a toothpick, ram slot holder thingys, old style ide pins that will fuck up irreversibly, sata plastic connectors that fade and rot and break away, the little grip on the 24+4 that will hurt your fingers to no end. cmos jumper, cmos battery holder.

Which is a better Rx 480?

Sapphire Nitro+
or
MSI G1 Gaming

Looks good, although the 750ti is a lot on the low side of things, but i suppose you could always upgrade later for like 200-250 bucks

Optical drive tray can snap off by 3 year old at any moment if left open.

This is somewhat retarded. The CPU is so much better than the GPU.

Drop the AiO. Get 1x8GB. Maybe get a non-OC i5 and a lesser mobo. Use the saved $$$ to get a 480 at least.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/tFJmCy
Any tips?

amazon.com/dp/B01JNUO6BG/?tag=pcpapi-20

amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/?tag=pcpapi-20

Can someone tell me the differences between these 2 GPUs that warrants a 50+ dollar price difference?

>Everyone who says building a pc is as easy as legos should fucking kill themselves.
Assembling it is pretty easy, choosing the parts well is hard work.

seeing that the 480 4gb is also around 200$ and the 1060 3gb too. how are the benches for 480 4gb vs 1060gb?

Also is there a away to contact you, I want to write some build for pcbg OPs with 400/500$, 800~$ and 1,2-1.3k$ builds so we can just put them into the op and be done with it and maybe you could look over them once im done and say its ok or not.

both are good I like Sapphire more

that build is bad
i5-6500, h170 or b150 mobo, get a Cryorig H7 cpucooler and get a better ssd (samsung hurdur), with the money you save get a 480

m8, the 4GB 470 is clearly a better value than either the 960 or the 380 at this point. Even if you want to list the 4GB 470 above the 3GB 1060, fine, I'm not arguing against that.

But to leave the 960/380 up and not include the 4GB 470 at all is ridiculous considering even based on the benchmarks you posted prove that the 4GB 470 is a better value than either the 960 or 380.

Benches show the 1060 6GB ahead overall, though it loses slightly if you look at only DX12 stuff. I put the 1060 3GB and 480 at the same tier, but the 1060 6GB at one tier higher.

My email is public.

The CHEAPEST 470 is $200, same price as the 1060 3GB.

>4GB 470 is clearly a better value than either the 960 or the 380
Better performance, yes.

amazon.com/dp/B01IEKYD5U/?tag=pcpapi-20
is higher clocked out of the box than the other one.

I meaned 480 4gb vs 1060 3gb also why 1060 6gb a higher tier than 480 8gb? because its faster in dx11 and most games are dx11 atm or another reason?

list is great but one thing
>PSU
Semi modular, don´t do that to yourself user.
Seasonic Platinum 660XP 660W platinum cert or EVGA SuperNOVA 650 SuperNOVA G2 gold cert or EVGA SuperNOVA 650 SuperNOVA NEX

choise is yours

No, better value

How did you decide on the i5-6500, H170 480 build O Seasonic shill?

>more drives in 5.25 Bays
>dual xeon build...a lot of HDD space and expansion space
>2 psu, 4 gpu and 2 older xeon, over 10 hdds, can't move to denser drives
> I can't find a case with 11 expansion slots

Stop trying to find something compatible with this horrible frankenputer.
Just DIY.

I assume you're wanting to recycle shitloads of old tech into some cobbled-together, ghetto-rigged monster of a PC.

Just build it yourself, PC cases are just glorified dust-covers, you could achieve 90% of a case function by bolting a mobo to a plank of wood, putting a stick in the middle to provide space and then throwing a sheet over it.

Cannibalise the right-hand and rear panels from an existing case, bolt the mobo on to the right-hand/base panel in the usual way and then screw that panel onto a plank of hardwood.

Do a little woodworking joinery to get the other struts in, you need:
4x width-wise struts
2x height-wise struts
2x length-wise struts

You don't need 2x height and length struts because the base plank will do that job, you're just adding the struts on the left.

Now you just cover the thing in PVC sheeting or canvas cloth or metal sheeting, whatever you want really. The flash point of hardwood is >300c actually a lot higher if you use a nice hardwood that isn't varnished or anything stupid. You can just go all metal if you like but then you need to weld. Decide between welding and joining I guess but joining is easy to learn and diy and you can borrow the tools from an uncle, welding needs equipment that isn't common and you probably don't know anyone who has it or knows how, maybe you do and it's easy.

I will definitely add that card once it is at MSRP and tops the charts again.

That chart doesn't mean what you think it does

Tell that to

I posted that chart to show the difference in value between 470 and 960/380. The chart shows exactly what I wanted it to.

because techgod also thinks like that If you want a 800$ build look here why a I5-6500 +H170?
to fit the 480/1060 into the budget

even if you get the 750ti for "nothing" its a really old card and it won´t give you high fps in most games, stable 60fps will be diffcult in many games( LoL or CS:GO and other games made for potatoes not included) if you don´t want to play on low grapics.
A 480 or 1060 will remove that problem and let you play on high/ultra grapics at a stable 60fps in most games.

and the i5-6500 is a good cpu that will last you long

H170 gives you the option to get a M.2 SSD which is faster than normal ssds later on if you want to upgrade stuff again.

did I explain that right falcon~dono?

Why not another $15 for the 6600 locked, or another $30 on top of the 6500 for the top of the line 6600k?

Your personal opinion if fine I still want to know, but benches/sources would make it even better.

because its not just the 30$ you save on the cpu you also can buy a decent h170 for 80-90$ and save another 60$.

and 6500 vs 6600 is meh they are more of less the same only clock is different and will not give you a feelable fps difference

sauce on them being pretty much the same with just different clocks?

google 6600k vs 6500 first video
youtube.com/watch?v=mGnmsb_kDHA

difference between 6500 and 6600k is avarge 3-4fps some games up to 7fps more some games only 1 fps difference.
like I said going for the 6500 also saves you money on the mobo which enables you to fit a 480 into your budget of 800$

So for gaming, at least 6700k=6600k=6500?
What about bottlenecking?

>difference between 6500 and 6600k is avarge 3-4fps some games up to 7fps more some games only 1 fps difference
What would be the difference between 6600k and 6700k or 6800k?

I'm but even I think the bottlenecking meme is ridiculous unless you're going back to a 2500 or AMD chip.

If the 6500 really does only get 2-3 frames average less than a 6600k with a 980 non-ti, then there is no major bottleneck for the immediate future.

The only difference between 6600k and 6700k is hyperthreading, which is still irrelevant outside of 2-3 frames for an extra $100 for the CPU.

I don't know much about the 6800, but my guess is that it's intended for professional server use, not PC gaming, and even then the extra $200 would no doubt be better spent on the GPU so it's a moot question.

This is what I currently have selected.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/pjt9Cy

Can anyone point out any flaws or where I can optimize?

I hadn't considered that, I'm actually really handy with woodworking (dad was a Carpenter) and my brother knows how to weld
Just might go for this instead

>the only difference between the 6700k and 6600k is hyper threading
*and the 6700k has a higher base clock.

>So for gaming, at least 6700k=6600k=6500?
No!
the 6700k is better in games than a 6600k but also costs about 100$ more @stock speeds the 6700k is like 12-24fps faster than a 6600k BUT they are K CPU made to be OC´d and if you OC both to around 4,6ghz the difference shrinks to 10fps~ so you pay 10$ per fps you gain for games.
OFC the i7 got a big advantage named hyperthreading which gives you a massiv boost in renderstuff, photoshop, etc.
which makes it worth it for ppl who got the money and want to OC or just need the power for rendering etc.


6600k is better than the 6500 @stock speed but only like 3-4 fps on average, but the 6600k can be overclocked making it fasterl, 15-18fps more with oc is doable for most 6600k in my opinion.


also a 6500 is basicly a 6700k that doesn´t fit the quality standards, same for 6600k.

>What about bottlenecking?
you need really big gpus(titan tier with OC) to hit the cpu limit in SOME games and really bootleneck your pc.

see benchmark here they tested super demanding games youtube.com/watch?v=EhaB1dqYv_I

>I'm actually really handy with woodworking (dad was a Carpenter) and my brother knows how to weld
Then you have no problems at all, this frankenputer is clearly a challenge project for you anyway and a custom built case will be awesome, especially if you know what you're doing. I'm not quite sure how to dovetail in a three way join but I guess you do?

Or use metal and weld, whatever you like. I'm not going to tell you how to suck eggs, this could be turn out to be a really awesome case.

Remember to provide some grounding somewhere and the rest of the case is about keeping dust out, allowing efficient air inflow/outflow and internal circulation, and vibration and sound dampening.

When choosing a material, keep thermal behaviour in mind, you don't want a soft wood out-gassing resin vapour when kept at a warm temperature for a long time, I guess you just need to cure it right and you probably know more than I do. Obviously varnish is probably wrong but maybe stains are ok?

i forgot to tell you guys this is all with big overclocked gpus that push the cpus to the limit (like titans x with oc tier), if you don´t have something like that its doesn´t matter at all because your gpu bottlenecks your cpu. Also in the benchmark i posted they didn´t use msaa / supersampling if you use msaa even the biggest gpus bottleneck your cpu.

stains could be ok, I'm a big fan of a nice sanded wood with a wax rub afterwards though. I know there are some high temp woods and stains though for sure. If anything I think I'd weld a metal frame and just "hang" wood panels from that. It would be very stable and very easy to change around, etc, while also being easy to adapt to sound proofing and ventilation issues
Thanks for the idea user, ill have to consider it for sure.

Looks fine, i7 is probably excessive. Get 3000MHz RAM if you stick with the Z170 mobo

m8, they're literally the same CPU with different clockspeeds.

ok little seasonic shill has to catch 2hrs of sleep until college starts so gn8 guys

Do you already have a regular HDD? I'd say get a smaller SSD with a 2TB regular HDD for around the same price, unless you really plan on not storing any movies.

>college
lul sorry wanted to say university

What's the best budget chipset for Skylake/Kaby Lake? Wanting to upgrade to whatever the new i3 will be, since it'll still be leagues better than what I run now. Not enough money to get a mobo that supports more than 2133mhz RAM, sadly

Alright man, I'll look into that later this weekend.
PC is in storage so I can focus on schoolwork.
Again, above^
Found out I'm swamped, so I gotta put it up otherwise I'll seriously get off track. Nasty habit o mine.

Oh wow, NOW I can post on Cred Forums, what the fuck was all that connection error/posting error bullshit about?

College kids love their Netflix.

B150 or H110

IPS or TN panel, lads? money isnt really an issue. I only really play vidya Tbh

>I'm a big fan of a nice sanded wood with a wax rub afterwards though
How does a wax rub behave when a hotspot (under the CPU maybe or near an exhaust fan/radiator) is kept at 60c 24/7?

Anyway, has you covered if you want some inspiration, they have a thread on case modding/building and it has a few wooden ones like this:

>Oh wow, NOW I can post on Cred Forums, what the fuck was all that connection error/posting error bullshit about?
The post server went down for a bit, it was the only one, the rest of it was fine.

>IPS or TN panel, lads? money isnt really an issue. I only really play vidya Tbh
I don't have good advice but I'm making the same decision.

As I understand it...

IPS gives you viewing angle without issues about leaning back in your chair and having shit go pale or dark. It has trouble showing absolute black though.

TN has better refresh rates and blacker blacks or maybe just better contrast.

I think I'm going for IPS though gsync IPS are expensive. The fastest is about 4ms too, instead of 1ms TN.

Asus ROG Swift or Aver Predator (and some BenQ model I think) are some of the only 1440p 144hz IPS monitors on the market right now.

*Acer

new thread when

>new thread when
I'll make one now.

New thread here: