/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Logitech Z523 is not bad but the bass overpowers the speakers unless you dial it down. Subwoofer is very powerful if you like that.

SSD = ~$50 for faster boot and loading/opening times. I'm guessing faster swap too, for system use. Up to you.

pcpartpicker.com/list/9RwpBP made this build. Is it good or shit?

Not bad, might want a more powerful PSU though.

1070 can hit 1440p 100hz ezpz, 144fps is only a GPU overclock away
A 480 will not supply anywhere near 144fps at 1440p, but freesync will make that less shitty
I mean it is your choice

Asked about speakers but figured I'd extend my question. What's an ideal but affordable display for someone who wants to do a lot of digital painting, preferably at 4k? What kind of build should I be looking at? I used to play a lot of games but I'm enjoying them less as I get older, so being able to run the latest shit at max settings isn't a priority.

Right now I have a GTX680, 8gb of ram, and an i5-3570k.

SeaSonic G360 is good for i5 sandy bridge & gtx 1060?

Program painting won't load your GPU much at all, even at 4K it's nothing like gaymen loads
I can't say what you'd need minimum but I would say a 1070 maximum, unless you're trying to play games at 4K (even then I'm sure medium settings would allow something near 60fps)

I have no fucking clue what I'm doing. Just closed the lever for the cpu and it's in place, but now I don't know how to attach my cooler. I have a mounting plate that supposedly goes on the bottom of the motherboard? There's already something screwed in there. Do I need to remove it and put the other one on? or put it over it? do I need to remove the cpu to properly get at this thing? pics to follow

this is the bottom of the mobo

here is what I guess is the mounting plate. the instructions make zero sense. does this go on the bottom with the mylar touching the mobo? over the other metal piece? or replacing it?

The behind bracket should go into those empty holes that are near the metal CPU thing.
I think the metal CPU thing is a CPU thing, don't fuck with it, also you don't need to take out the CPU
You put the bracket in the back, which wi give you 4 screw holes on the other side (the CPU side) to put the cooler's scissor bracket in.
The scissor bracket screws into the backplate's own screw threads and squishes the CPU cooler against the CPU. The heatsink itself isn't screwed into anything, the scissor bracket pushes it tightly against the CPU

So you should have two metal brackets, and they should screw into each other.
You basically wanna sandwich both the CPU and the CPU cooler between them

bumping this

Will a RX460 work in this toast mobo?
Mobo:
gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2693&kw=GA-G31M-S2L#ov

Card:
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAAM14SA2455

I don't care about bottlenecks.

Can you guys offer any confidence about whether this is a good build, and especially whether these parts will fit together? I've read a lot in preparation to try my first build, but I have zero experience, so I keep noticing simple things that I've overlooked.

(1) I don't plan to overclock, and (2) desk space is not a constraint, so I thought the oversized tower would just make things easier.

Any advice or pointers you have would go a long way, thank you.

>oversized tower
I guess it's bigger than you expect but it's still not that big, the n200 is like an old school tower size (not the current enthusiast case monstrosities)

I think 1x8 ram is cheaper and gives you more upgrade room

Lookin' good bud

amazon.com/Realan-supply-desktop-computers-Silver/dp/B01936CZYK

I have used the bigger brother, the W80. It's amazingly sturdy. The aluminum is thick as fuck.

Be wary the power connector may wiggle though.

Entirely depends on budget, as does every purchase question. It's like asking, what's a good GPU or monitor?

Motherboard: ASUS x99-A
CPU: i7 6800k
GPU: GIGABYTE 1080
RAM: 16GB
PSU: SeaSonic Platinum SS-860XP2 860W
Storage: 2TB HDD, 120GB SDD

I turned it on and there is no video though the HDMI.
What do? The GPU came with a installation disk, do I actually have to install that first? How do I do that when the only HDMI output is on the graphics card?
AHHHH

>do I actually have to install that first?
Generally no.

Check BIOS to see what is your first video output port. Or just plug your monitor into all the ports.

You shouldn't have to install any drivers to at least get a signal. Is the GPU fully seated? Try reseating it & rewiring it just in case, can't hurt. Properly powered? Some GPUs have two power connectors as well, check that.

Some mobos have diagnostic LEDs that'll indicate if there's a problem with the GPU

Sorry, I should have specified. I'm looking to spend less than 150. I'm mostly just looking for a nice setup to listen to music while I work on art. I'm pretty new to this stuff, does certain equipment match preferred styles of music? If it matters, I like a lot of psychedelia, electronic music (the chill kind) and post rock.

Not really this is as simple as you say. I think getting a 64 (if possible) or 128gb add and installing both on one ssd is easier for dual booting if you don't mind choosing which os everytime you start up your pc. That way you don't have to do anything in the bios which you don't sound too comfortable around atm.

>match preferred styles of music
Kind of. Really good speakers work with anything, but with more budget-oriented setups, there are certainly preferences. For instance a lot of people are fine with just two monitors and no subwoofer. Plus side you can get really good quality speakers, downside you have poor bass extension.

Some people still swear by the old Klipsch ProMedia 2.1, which has been on sale recently for as low as $110. It's a pretty good all-around setup. A step up from the suggest logitech but of course slightly more expensive and you have to shop around.

Headphones are of course a popular option around here but you can get fine 2.0 or 2.1 speakers in your budget.

Without video?
I only have an HDMI cord..
>You shouldn't have to install any drivers to at least get a signal. Is the GPU fully seated? Try reseating it & rewiring it just in case, can't hurt. Properly powered? Some GPUs have two power connectors as well, check that.
Everything seems normal to me. I checked all of that.

>Some mobos have diagnostic LEDs that'll indicate if there's a problem with the GPU
Maybe?
Ignore the cable management, not done yet. Also CPU blows up which is fine, I think. Hopefully I don't get stupid temps.. I'll fix it if that happens.

>Without video?
>I only have an HDMI cord..
Oh right.

Also I don't mean all ports at once. I mean boot up with one port, if it doesn't work, try the next port, etc.

>all of that dust

I see so many builds with shit for cable management. How could you not take the time and own your pride to just manage your wires a little better.

High quality stereo speakers >>> Mid quality 2.1 setup
The point of actual studio monitors is that you don't need a sub

>lead fan wires around the outside of fans
>tuck one cable under corner of motherboard
>pull on everything else from the back side
>smash the cables, force the side panel on, never take it off again
ezpz, my case has no window but still it's not hard to do

my friend has a similar monitor, same specs except it's a Benq and he uses a 1070. the monitor is great when he's hitting 60/120/144fps, but at other times, the screen tearing kinda ruins the experience

but the other user is right about a 480 not being adequate for 1440p 144fps. I run 1440p on my r9 290, but I only aim for 60fps, and even then I can't really maintain that unless I fiddle with the settings in games like BF4 and Witcher

if you're that impatient, yeah grab a 480, but it won't be enough to keep max fps. best option is a 1070 and then sell it for a 490 later on

Do nvidia cards freesync too?
Isn't freesync basically free hardware synchronization?

I just bought a LG 29UM68-P on sale for $230. Stoked, but need to update my 780 (non-Ti). It's got coil whine that's increasing over time and it's annoying me now. Am I better off going for a RX480 and leveraging the freesync capabilities of the monitor, or getting a 1070?

says not to remove the fan clips, yet they came in a bag, unattached. how many do I need to attach the fan? one on each side? how do I attach them? fuck this cooler, next time I'm just buying a cryorig h7 instead of this hipster bullshit

freesync is open source, but nvidia won't allow their cards to utilize it. gsync is nvidia's version. basically it allows the monitor to change its refresh rate in real time

I'm sure there's more knowledge people who will correct me, but that's the gist of it

What kinda case should I buy?

I like fractical design but it really depends on what you are putting inside of it.

I chose mATX, so I went for whatever looked good and was mATX. I originally though about the corsair 350D with window for $100 but I decided I'd rather not have dicks in my ass so I went with coolermaster n200 without window for $30

Actually it was the size that made me switch to n200, not the window. The 350D is like a full size case, the n200 was still bigger than I expected but it's basically like a small old school tower size, just a little wider

And with micro atx motherboards they aren't any less useful than a regular mobo right?

From last thread

→
>You can download a Windows 10 img directly from Microsoft. After you install (just skip license key entry) use Microsoft Toolkit to activate. UTFSE
>microsoft.com/en-au/software-download/windows10
pic related

I mean, does this actually get a key or just let it run without one for a while or something?

pcpartpicker.com/list/PtQRKZ

New to PC building. Don't want to spend all too much my first time building a PC myself since I can always upgrade later on. Any parts I should better spend some more for better results? Any help is appreciated

have an issue here.

upgraded my pc with 2 new gpus in SLI.
I have a overkill power supply that is more than enough for any configuration.

anyways been playing with the gpus for 2 days everything was fine playing BF4. THEN

after 20 minutes or so hear a loud pop/bang see a big white spark behind the gpu I assume maybe the psu. After the bang immediately see blackish smoke come out the back exhaust fan I then immediately shut off power switch and pulled plug.

I couldnt find any burnt parts anywhere the smoke stunk up the place bad, mobo is spotless, everything runs fine, Im guessing that it was one of the gpus that burnt up.

The crazy part is my rig still works just fine even tested out bf4 for a minute and now im benchmarking 3dmark on 1 of the gpus alone.

WHAT SHOULD I DO?
the cards work fine but shit I dont like the idea of that happening again but next time it kills my mobo/components

I got plenty of money thats not an issue but I want to tips from people who experienced this.

never had a problem like this before ever.

tfw it isn't even POSTing

Use your eyes nigga, holy fuck.

They might have one or two less PCI slots, but 2-4 is still usually more than enough unless you want to SLI (which is totally possible, mATX boards can go up to 4 PCIe slots and mATX cases go up to 5-slot brackets

Not worth it to get the FM2 platform. You won't be upgrading shit on that, it's a dead socket and it uses DDR3 memory, basically worthless on anything new. Used is the only acceptable way to buy FM2 at this point.

Get an i3 6100 and an LGA 1151 mobo and you'll have lots of upgrade choices. Even Intel's next CPUs, Kaby Lake, will be on that socket. Yes your build will cost you a little more but you'll be happy with it.

You can get an H110 mobo and an i3 6100 for $190

Here's an example build pcpartpicker.com/list/kQWrM8

Can anyone recommend some good general-purpose (not pressure or airlflow-focused) fans with fluid-dynamic bearings? I'm thinking about getting some Noctua reduxes, but how do they compare to the competition?

By design it's gonna be either airflow purposed or pressure purposed. Use static pressure for restricted airflow situations like filtered intake or heatsink fans. Use high airflow fans for exhaust or unrestricted situations

I got kinda burned with the static pressure fans I bought for my case intakes. They don't push all that much air at 600RPM and I had to throw in the stock fan in addition to the two I bought to got positive airflow with one stock fan in the back.

I have a thing for slim line case and while I also like Node 202 because it can accept full sized gpu, there's no room for 2x3.5" HDDs. What are some slim case that can hold at least 2 HDDs while also has decent air flow?

They're not supposed to move tons of air, just use high airflow fans then, but when the positive pressure won't go any higher with those fans you'll need something with more aerodynamic strength
Also 600rpm god damn I just saw that, that's why they won't move air

Bitfenix Pandora

>apply thermal paste to cpu
>attempt to lower heatsink on it
>catch side of anchoring mount
>try to fix it
>slide heatsink all over cpu trying to line it up
>can't affix mounting plate
>9001 tries later, finally get heatsink and fan attached to mobo

so what is the likelihood that I have ruined my thermal paste application and i'm gonna have to take everything off and redo it

at this point I'd rather eat nails than continue building, I feel like I've already fucked up

RTFM

Test temps after build. If they look shitty, then reapply. I would say that you already fucked up if you took it off the CPU when there was paste on it.

Calm the fuck down when you're doing this crap, and come to the realization that Noctua's mounting system is god-tier.

Take a walk, have a smoke and/or wank, go to bed or whatever you need to do to approach it at a later time with a clear head. You'll only fuck up more now that you're frustrated and tired. If you think it'll be an issue, you should probably redo it.

Thought most cpu's came with little plastic applicators to just lower and pop it in. Guess not.

That looks like a tower and not actually slim case

I am close to pulling the trigger.
This is what I currently have picked out.
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/7XsVFd

This is what my friend suggests
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/xfyLcc

Any comments or concerns between the two? The goal is 1440p gaming at 60fps.

For the first link I am purposely missing an OS, HDD and PSU since I already have those from my current computer. My friend suggests liquid cooling but I've never dabbled in that stuff before and it freaks me out. I suppose I could get a local shop to do it for me, as he suggests but, I'm not sure.

Oh and can anyone recommend me a case for this?

The mATX version is barely bigger than mobo + psu and it's only 16cm wide.

I didn't remove anything after the heatsink and cpu made contact, I didn't lift it up, just slid it around trying to line it up. however, the left half made contact first since the right side got caught on the anchor mount, so I probably just squished it all to the right when I lowered the other half. should I still continue and see how the temps are?

>Calm the fuck down
i'm trying not to sweat on the motherboard but when I wipe the sweat away, my hands are so shaky it's like i'm a sprinkler

taking a breather now but I want to continue. I have the ssd and psu in (easy part, I know) but now I feel like the rest is more simple. put the ram in, plug in some cables, then do a test boot, right?

userbenchmark.com/

bench your current/hypothetical rig against percentile scores.

>mfw 3570k and gtx670 still good to go
>they both perform near the 80th percentile in cpu/gpu bench

upgrade once i see kaby lake benchmarks and if it'll run (non glitchy) on windows 7. and of course vega/volta battle. futureproofing is real. been very happy with performance of my soon to be 5 year old build.

just need to buy ram, cpu, and gpu. rest of build is done. i expect prices of ddr4 ram to drop quite a bit now that it's become mainstream. and i'll probably be happy with sky lake if i can get a good deal on it once kaby releases.

Should've plugged RAM before CPU cooler. But yes, after that it's mostly about wiring.

Ram is plug n play. Sounds like you're almost done, may as well finish up and see how it performs.

Call me a fag but I like my case just 10cm wide

the guide i'm watching does it after

youtu.be/n2dJvqU2_x4?t=843

the wiring is the worst part since I have no idea what i'm doing

h-here i go

I like being able to put in graphics cards without extenders and using tower coolers for CPU but that's just me.

It's just that some coolers are so big that they block ram slots, making it impossible to use all 4 slots.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Z6hGJV

I shouldn't need 1080 should I?

I'm 90% sure this is a gaming/light editing machine, so you'll be fine. I might be underestimating the 1070, but I'm not sure you'll be able to maintain 144fps in some of the newest games though.

If you want to run latest games in 1440p @ 144hz then yes. If you're willing to sacrifice framerate and/or lower settings then 1070 is fine.

the ram feels incredibly loose in the slot. I can pull it out just by lifting lightly. is this normal?

>tfw I miss Rose
>realize she's over 30 years old at this point
good god

No. Open the latches then push the RAM in until the latches close back into place.

Motherboards are more durable than you think. Nowadays, they're designed so gaymer manchildren can manhandle them without fucking shit up.

It should snap into place. Make sure it's facing the right way.

Fucking no way, really?

You need to push it all the way in so that it locks in place. Check that you've plugged it in correctly and then just push it down. It's requires more force than you'd expect but don't worry, the mobo can handle it.

Quads speaks the truth.

But I'm pretty sure 1080 could do better.

I have the little notch lined up correctly, let me go really push it and I'll report back

I heard some good shit about cryorig and was considering a cryorig h5 ultimate but the cheapest watercooler i could find, cooler master seidon 120 v2 is the same price.
Would it be better with watercooling despite that it's the cheapest one?

Oh shit I got quads, neat. First time for everything. If he has the money, 6700k and 1080 would make that a total powerhouse.

Kek good luck.

If people like it and it doesn't leak, then it looks like it might just be a good deal.

ok lads you were definitely right, I had limpwristed that shit real bad, the ram in the slots was like a lily flower floating on water, i could just daintily pick it up. i pushed it in hard and I think it's good now. time to figure out what mobo standoffs are and how to install them

This is how my ventilation is now.
I have ordered a new cooler which will blow the air towards the back instead, should i move one of the top fans to the back?

The fuck is going on here? Take a picture of your computer.

Someone with GPU overclocking experience please advise me.

I have a ROG Strix GTX 1070 OC Edition. In MSI Afterburner, I set the power limit to max, core clock +40 to 2076 MHz, and memory clock +300 to 4303 MHz. Stable temp is 61 Celsius. Is this overclock okay/safe? I'm particularly worried about how much I increased the memory clock by. I don't see any artifacting in Unigine Heaven or 3D Mark Fire Strike, and my driver has never crashed. I'm pretty sure I have more than enough electrical power (power limit) because I have a 650 watt PSU.

Fucking kek what the hell am I looking at dude? Just take a picture of your rig.

...

Stick with the 1070. You can sell it and upgrade to the 1080Ti later if you want. Don't get jew'd by You really don't need an i7, drop to i5 6600K or i5 6500

I forgot the image.

The new fan points to the left.

We're being rused, nobody could be stupid enough to take a case pic with the side still on.

It looks like a modern art painting covered in pubes.
>stock cooler
>Noctua fans
in general, top exhausts are bad if you have a tower cooler since they take cool air that would have gone to the cooler and pull it out instead. I would move one of the fans to the back and if the fan that comes on the cooler is crap, I might put the second fan on the cooler depending on what model that Noctua is.

Fix your cable management.

Dear god, another terrible visual. So assuming you get a cooler blowing air out the back, it looks like you have a grate there to ventilate. If you add another one blowing air out the back, that's a lot of pushing for very little pulling. Maybe put your other one in the front for maximum flowing?

You can see all you need through the window.

There is one blowing into the front already, i hoped the arrows in would show where the fans were in a good way.

what is this trying to say. I guess these are the "standoffs" and their screws, but which way does it go in? and what the fuck is that 1x item supposed to be

I think you guys now what i'm planning
but if you don't here is my old idea
nz.pcpartpicker.com/user/Dubzac/saved/QpLTwP
It has more description on why i moved away from 16gb

But I left descriptions on part picker.

I'm running on 720p atm.

nz.pcpartpicker.com/user/Dubzac/saved/JZ6hMp
Here's the current setup.

My oldest HDD is dying. What's the hot thing for hard drives right now?

Screw in the standoffs with the screw side down. Hand tighten then go further with the standoff tool (the 1x thing). I would use a wrench though since the plastic standoff tool that Fractal provides sucks absolute dick.

SSDs. Regular HDDs are still relevant.

Uh, have you heard of SSDs? Just get a new spinning disk one and it'll last you a long ass time.

Full SSD if you can.

PS: At some point in time I will do that too, just waiting on capatity for large 3 tb drives to get common and cheaper than 1000+ NZD

The new cooler is a cryorig h5 which is 140mm and the noctuas are 120mm.

I have an SSD I am looking to replace on of my hard drives though.

what's this thing already installed? my Mobo has six standoffs and it's in the case in this position. should I take it out and put in a standoff?

o o
o x
o o

in my hand is the standoff, already installed is some knob thing

I wouldn't say it's too difficult. If you want to make it idiot proof:

Setup build.
Plug in SSD #1
Install Win10 to drive A
Shutdown
Unplug SSD #1
Plug in SSD #2
Install Win7 to SSD #2
Shutdown
Plug in SSD #1
Use the BIOS menu to boot from SSD #1
In Win10, edit the settings to add an entry for Win7 to the boot menu that appears when you boot from SSD #1. Look up BCEdit for this.
You could also do the reverse, and add an entry for Win10 into Win7's boot menu.

Yes, you could go into the BIOS each time to choose which drive to boot from, but this way presents you with any easy menu, instead of having to press F12 or whatever for the split second that the BIOS logo appears.

Alignment pin for the center motherboard screw hole. Stick your I/O out the back at an angle first then lower so the pin sticks through the middle screw hole.

Nice cuticles.

well if your going to stay on hard drives then go on hybrid drives or with the largest cache you can get.

So I just completed my first build, and everything just went too smoothly and it was too easy. I'm paranoid something is wrong with my machine that I can't tell just simply because it came together very quickly with no problems.
Is this a normal kind of feeling?

It's been 4 years and I am still worried

Windows 10 takes up about 30 GB for me, so assuming you do this and keep your games and multimedia on on different drive, I imagine you could get by with a 64GB SSD.

Apparently, there's a way to shrink Windows 10 to a tiny 4 GB with WIMboot, but I'm not sure how comfortable you'd be with following that process.

Help pick a mobo and case
pcpartpicker.com/list/tW9yWX

It's for work and gaming, anticipating a GPU upgrade in a year or two. Overclocking is likely.

I would prefer to fit the case into my desk which has a spot for a tower:
38cm x 31cm x 55cm
14.96 inches x 12.2 inches x 21.65 inche

>Alignment pin
ah ok

>Stick your I/O out the back at an angle first then lower so the pin sticks through the middle screw hole
ok what. what is the i/o? out the back of what?

thanks :3 people on /k/ say my hands are girly but I like them!

>Apparently, there's a way to shrink Windows 10 to a tiny 4 GB with WIMboot
I just saw a USB computer that runs Win10 in a 32GB chip with apparently enough space for a few user files.

Those are pretty girly. I'd still hold them though.

its suppose to be user friendly so yes.
but just to be sure double check everything is connected proper and do a tidy

If you have done all of the above then go ahead and fire it up.
:)

This is my 6800k build.
Skimmed through tons of different mobos and this Asus seemed like a fairly solid choice.
This Fractal case won't quite fit into what you described though.

>thanks :3 people on /k/ say my hands are girly but I like them!
Cred Forums always has a place for boys with girly features. I'm not sure they're being critical.

>Skimmed through tons of different mobos and this Asus seemed like a fairly solid choice.
Does it stand out in any way?
Any good features that you were looking for?

You are putting together a pc, not operating in a war zone. Things went smoothly because that's how they are supposed to be, it's not an ambush or anything. Just press the power button and see if it turns on.

>not operating in a war zone
>it's not an ambush or anything

I've never built a PC without taking a wound in the process. Usually just scratching my forearm on a harddrive bay or something but I'm always wounded, usually bleeding.

800w

Eh? your list will bearly pull 550~600 estimated watts on stock
why do you need 800watts?

Anyone? I'm new to this and would appreciate any help.

Am I getting enough ram for my 1080p 60fps gaming build? I bought a 1x8gb 2400 and a 1x4gb 2400. both vengeance lpx.

Buy a two stick bundle instead for dual channel.

Get a better case that doesn't have sharp edges.

You probably don't need that big PSU and that much memory but then this is a 2.2k dollarydoo build.

I wanted to have a mobo with Bluetooth built into it.
This one has that + wi-fi
Also it has a m.2 + u.2 connectors, which unfortunately you can't use at the same time, but at least both options are there.
It also has 2 x USB 3.1 both type A and C there.

It's really not all that different from tons of other mobos, but has all kinds of nice features.

Just in case I ever want to use two GPUs with this and generally for future proofing.
Besides it's not like it's drawing more power from the wall than a 600W model anyways.

You're not going to be able to use dual channel with that config.. need equal amounts of RAM. 12GB is plenty though

with any GPU you want to use the minuim power for the max gains, you only in crease the power target if you crash or it will not compete a benchmark same goes with clock speed.

take it slow only like at 20Mhz jumps (by jumps i mean test as you go) untill you get to your target if its still stable (IE no crash on benchmark or other tasks you commonly do and the temps and power draw are in safe limits even your all set)

Normally you never go above 25% OC unless your have a full water block (and no i'm not talking about AIO or air coolers)

Stable temp is 61 Celsius. Is this overclock okay/safe? I

61c is nothing, you're fine.

>It's really not all that different from tons of other mobos, but has all kinds of nice features.
Thanks.

Okay, thank you very much. I'll stay with this setup for now, until later on when it struggles to play new games.

>Just in case I ever want to use two GPUs with this and generally for future proofing.

Your i5 is bottlenecking your single GTX 1080 on stock but given you have a 6600K i'd really hammer the OC on that i5.
I assume you have done that.

pointless as you would hit very close to bottleneck on i5 after max OC and 2x 1080's

WD blue or Seagate Barracuda if you cant afford more SSD's. SSD's are the future for storage though.

>WD blue or Seagate Barracuda if you cant afford more SSD's. SSD's are the future for storage though.
There's a Toshiba 3.5" P300 6TB. Price scales directly from 2TB.

When do 6TB SSDs arrive?

Think you either replied to a wrong guy or misread the list.
That's a i7-6800k

Samsung has made an 15TB SSD already.

Seagate made a 60TB model a while ago.

>Samsung has made an 15TB SSD already.
Is it affordable? The 6TB HD costs the same as 3x2TBs.

I have trouble with building my comp I have fans working but cd drive is not and nothing showing on monitor please help can post more pic or part list pls Cred Forums only hope

>wrong guy or misread the list.
ideed
>broadwell -E
ah yes never mind i deteled my post, too tired lol.

Depends if you find 10 thousand dollars affordable. Probably not. There are smaller models that only cost a couple grand each. It's intended for business use anyways.

Yeah but you can't buy them anywhere yet, they haven't even announced if they'll sell them. And they're 3.5" drives instead of 2.5".

>Depends if you find 10 thousand dollars affordable. Probably not
You read my mind.

The Toshiba 6TB is $200 though my apologies, it's an X300, not a P300. Not sure if that makes a difference.

Your motherboard should give beeps or flash some LED's to indicate what is wrong. Look for them and then go through the manual to see what it's trying to tell you.

Samsung has a 2tb that is pretty reasonably, for what it is. Still doesn't compete with the 6TB on price but otherwise it's not bad.
pcpartpicker.com/product/kTYWGX/samsung-850-evo-4tb-25-solid-state-drive-mz-75e4t0bam

Probably a simple question

For gaming, I should go for a i5 6600K over an i7 6700K with a 1070? Wanting to get 1440p gaming.

Crucial has the best priced SSD at the moment I think.
549$ for 2TB
amazon.com/Crucial-MX300-Internal-Solid-State/dp/B01KKZLX46

>CD not working
>nothing else working but fans

But we hope its not that.

check first
does it post? (IE boot sounds , reading hard disk or SSD or see boot screen)

If not
then
-check to see your ram is in properly?
-check to see the cpu fan is pluged into cpu fan header
-see if power for cpu and motherboad are in properly

If nothing esle works and you keep testing and rebooting.

Only
1 sata hard drive is needed
1 kb (keyboard)
1 monitor

you need these pluged in inorder to boot
if you have the OS CD or dvd or have the OS Hard drive use that for the test.

but really i'm only taking you to boot page as if that shows then you can work it out pretty easy.

and if you want a mouse

PS:seems like the same thing i had.
when this happened i had bent pins on the LGA if that's so then its a good two month wait if you live outside the US

how do I get my CPU cable into this slot? can I put it through the right hole and have it rest on the heatsink? or just pull it through and curl it around to connect?

For pure gaming, does not matter. Matters if you are streaming while gaming.

>1070 build
i5 would be best with a light OC
the i7 will work with no OC
Yes.

The i7 is better but will not give you much of a performance increase over i5. So it depends on if you want to overpay for slight boost performance or get a more reasonable build and save the money for upgrading it later.

Curl it around or use the right hole, it doesnt really matter as long as you dont bend the cable too much. Doesnt matter if it touches the heatsink. This is more about aestetics than anything else.

>Samsung has a 2tb that is pretty reasonabe
>Crucial has the best priced SSD at the moment I think.
>549$ for 2TB
Sorry, I meant 4TB. Crucial's still comes in slightly cheaper per TB though.

but what if it touches the motherboard?

No you need a another PSU sell it for another.
a 4 pin will not power the cpu.
its plastic nothing will happen

but watch that heatsink it can and will melt powerleads.

>but what if it touches the motherboard?
The cable is insulated, it's not going to short anything out, I'd be more worried about it being singed by the heatsink though you'd think it would be able to withstand that temperature.

Looks like a tight fit. Once you have it in, see if you can pull it down tight so that it doesn't touch the heatsink and then use cable ties somewhere else to keep it tight and prevent it coming back up.

I think somethings is not plug in

it's a really fucking tight fit, I can't plug it even plug it in. I'll keep struggling and see if I can get it

No streaming. With a 1070 and an i5 6600K would it make sense to go for an OC build?

>would it make sense to go for an OC build?
When does it ever not?

OC that 6600K, it's what the K is for.

Your cable management is such a mess that I woudn't be suprised. You should've checked connections before posting here.

That's just how it is. If you have a modular PSU then you can plug the cable into motherboard first and then worry about routing it back to PSU.

Might've had more space if you wired the motherboard before installing that huge cooler but that's just how it is.

pcpartpicker.com/list/jqH9xr
Is this a good build? I only want it for gaming and basic school stuff. The video card will probably be replaced by the gtx 1050 when it comes out.
Im trying to stay under 500usd

yeah I have no room to plug it in. I'm about to call it quits and fucking trash the whole thing

it's prebuilts for me from now on

You could try unscrewing the mobo and moving it down a bit to get you more hand room. Or use a flat screwdriver to push it in.

no where else for the mobo to go except the garbage can. I literally can't plug reach the connector for this cable without smashing the case open

Lift the mobo up and plug the cable in, then put it back down and screw it in.

i'd need to lower it to have more room, not lift it. at this point i think im just gonna shoot myself in the head, but thanks for the help. i'll send you this $1400 build that i can't do before i suck start this shotgun, maybe you can get some use out of it

>garbage can.

You could just disassemble it all and send it over here...

>Pull through and give some slack
>Push in till it clicks using a long tool or your fingers
>Remove slack
Holy fuck, how can you be this inept?

I'm planning on buying this shit

Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
NZXT S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case
Corsair CX600 ATX Power Supply

This build any good?

Is there a cheaper case and motherboard to get? I don't want something fuck huge and I don't need it to have stupid shit like tempered glass or whatever.

I'm Canadian btw so I'm trying to keep it at $2000 or lower.

no way i'm disassembling this after the hours i've spent doing what others can do in minutes. building it is bad enough. if it doesn't boot when (if) i finish assembling, i'm just going to take it out in the backyard and fuck its ass with the garden hose

if you can't get the 8pin (2x4pin) connector to the cpu power socket move it down to the next hole lower then push the connector though the hole (this much get a bit rough) and then streech it to fit the connector

most PSU's will barely make it to the connector in any case.

If you have an ssd that small it will fill up as fast as possible, that whereas you would have to reduce page number and and delete hibernation to restore storage, I Baught a 120gb ssd, and most programs I install automatically install on the boot drive sadly, I have 14gb left.. Get a decent ssd on black Friday, you won't regret the extra space, even if you use it for other stuff

Does this show my situation in a clear way?
What if i move one of the top fans to the back?
Which one should i move in that case?

How do I make sure no programs other than my OS install on my boot drive? Cause some don't have advanced settings or options for selecting install folder

motherboard.vice.com/read/pc-gaming-is-still-way-too-hard

i'd rather die than continue doing this fucking build. whatever joy i garner from this wretched machine will never outweigh the pure rage i feel at this moment

Can anyone suggest a case for this build?

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/gzHJnn

Only request is that the case is a dark color.

Define R5. Bump that cooler up to the NH-U14s for to take advantage of that dank CPU cooler clearance.

how the fuck am I supposed to fit both of these in here. do I only need one or both?

You sound like an impatient autist

if impatient is spending hours per cable, hours per piece, then yeah i'm more than just impatient i am fucking furious i hate this shit so much fhsusdohsaahusdauuasdbsdabueffubifjkbcdfdkjb

Nothing you can really do to prevent that. Don't install stuff that doesn't give you an option to change folders.

You do need both. Just plug it in, don't give up.

Has anyone ever told you that you have special needs?

This is how you build.

youtube.com/watch?v=HyCa4U5Zzoc

the plastic casing must be too thick, there's no way for both to fit side by side
i'm legit ending my life, if you want the fury and other stuff i haven't installed or the whole case with the psu/ssd/mobo/etc email me at [email protected] before I write my suicide note and i'll mail it to you in the morning

how about a special fuck youusdhuahsdouabsdouabsodbsauobdowqeu0r32085982y348hoqdjcdsjncd n FUCK

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/GTjb2R

case, psu, mobo? under $2000 total?

They're designed to fit side-by side. It is supposed to be one connector but it's split because some motherboards only have 4-pin slot while others have 8-pin.

It will fit, they fit perfectly fine in graphics cards side by side.

Don't give up, I always find plugging the PSU cables in to be the trickiest part considering I want the cable management to be semi-decent looking.

Any suggestions or additions?
pcpartpicker.com/list/bbcNzM

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/y7ZGJV
You might cut a bit more by using a ASUS Z170 E but it has less features,650W is pretty good you wanted to upgrade or sli.

I need another media hard drive since I'm running out of space.

It will be solely used for storing large video files.

I have been using Western Digital Red hard drives for years now without a hitch. But I'm thinking of trying out an HGST drive. The Backblaze hard drive reliability for Q2 2016 stats show that their HGST drives are by far the most reliable.

Now here is my predicament:
Do I buy a 4 TB WD Red that is shipped and sold by Amazon (making sure that any warranty trouble will be fixed quickly) or do I buy an HGST Megascale (HMS5C4040BLE640) from Amazon and possibly have to go to the seller warranty because HGST only offers true warranties to authorized resellers?

tl;dr Tell me what reliable hard drive I should buy, to use it as a large media drive.

HGST
>amazon.com/gp/product/B01CKBN76A/

WD RED
>amazon.com/gp/product/B00EHBERSE/

Everything looks good except for that ssd.

>OCZ
Nope

Get an Intel or Samsung drive.

Samsung needs proprietary software and intel is overpriced and not reliable. This OCZ model is looking good on paper and reviews.

>How do I make sure no programs other than my OS install on my boot drive? Cause some don't have advanced settings or options for selecting install folder

In Win7, I would do it like this:
>copy the programs folder to your data drive (D:?)
>rename the programs folder
>create a symlink on C: to D:\Programs Files

Then, your programs don't know that they're not on C: but they're really not. Install everything normally.

Symlinks have been an undocumented feature in Windows since NT I think but they're a bit more mainstream now, officially called a symbolic file junction.

>Enter “command” in your start menu search, right-click on Command Prompt, and select “Run as administrator”. First, choose the correct prefix. Mklink can create several types of links, including the following: /D – creates a soft symbolic link, which is similar to a standard folder or file shortcut in Windows
howtogeek.com/howto/16226/complete-guide-to-symbolic-links-symlinks-on-windows-or-linux/

You should consider telling /r9k/ or /soc/ about this.>if impatient is spending hours per cable, hours per piece
I only do that because I take sexual pleasure in caressing the smooth, designed, powerful hardware. I think you have some personal issues that you haven't dealt with.

>samsung need proprietary software
What?

Samsung only needs proprietary software to update the firmware. Anything else is plug and play.

>Intel not reliable
Where did you get that? Intel ssd's are used in enterprise solutions and servers for a reason. They are very reliable.

Also, Samsung and Intel both have good track records. Can't say the same for OCZ.

>>amazon.com/gp/product/B00EHBERSE/
Go team red maine,Amazon warranty is bretty good

I've been on team red for a while mate. I have 3 3tb reds in my desktop right now. And they're great.

But the numbers don't lie. Those HGST drives are reliable to a point of sexiness.

thanks this is perfect

Can you use an amazon red even if you don't want to use a RAID set up or NAS?

i really dont know what to do now, i constantly get bluescreens, the more programms i have open the faster i get em
not errorcode or any informations

i thought its the ram (4x2gb) but i tested them one by one and they seem to be working.
the win ram test says sometimes it has a problem sometimes not

memtest said there is no problem

what can it be? what can i do next?

>i really dont know what to do now, i constantly get bluescreens, the more programms i have open the faster i get em
>not errorcode or any informations
Could be overheating, diagnose by running a temp util and then taking the side off and pointing a big room fan into it and see if a lower temp makes the problems go away.

Usually it means upgrade time because your hardware is now too old for current generation games but maybe you just need to fix your cooling.

Or it could be something else entirely.

>more programs = faster blue screen

Sounds to me like a cpu problem. It might be that the cpu is heating up way too much, after working on processing multiple programs, and is blue screening. I say this because I had a similar problem with overclocked CPU a while back (too high temps).

Of course. Reds are just sata hard drives but with special firmware, and possibly slightly higher quality parts, that make it a good choice to be put in a NAS environment where they could very well be running 24/7.

I want to build a PC for digital art on clip studio paint and SAI. Should I just focus on the high dual-core CPU clock speeds (e.g. an i3-6100) and skip the graphics card since I don't game nor do I need the Cuda cores?

My boss bought me this computer for gaming use and wanted to get a second opinion on it.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H105 73.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card
Case: NZXT H440 (Matte Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Monitor: BenQ XL2411Z 24.0" 144Hz Monitor

Also for the OS: I have Windows 7 on a USB - I'd just need to buy a guy off Reddit or some shit and be good to go on that front?

>I'd just need to buy a guy off Reddit or some shit
To get a bj while you play games on your solid current generation gaming PC?

There's literally nothing wrong with it, it's not state of the art but it's solidly current. And it's all set for overclocking, assuming that it's not already.

I'm retarded :O

I meant just buy a windows key from a guy off Reddit or some other service. I've always used my own key/disk so I'm not too sure how the USB/3rd party key shit works.

And thanks, I don't think I'm going to Overclock right away. I'll see how things go and then once I notice performance issues or I get 'greedy' I'll look into it (I made sure the CPU/Montherboard had overclocking in mind). I'm not playing big graphically intensive games and the games I do play I play on the lowest setting for 'the competitive edge' so I think I will be fine.

>I meant just buy a windows key from a guy off Reddit or some other service
Holy shit kill yourself

I'm being 100% serious too. If you ever considered buying windows from "a guy off reddit" then you need to end your life.

If I can install 1 fan on the ceiling of the case (which also happens to face the cpu heatsink) should I let the fan blow air outside-in or inside-out?
This is the only fan that will help with air circulation btw.

That pretty fucking solid.
How much did it cost

>I'm being 100% serious too. If you ever considered buying windows from "a guy off reddit" then you need to end your life.
Why should he khs when he can buy it off you?

>That pretty fucking solid.
It is, isn't it.

>How much did it cost
Nothing apparently. user, was it a project bonus or something?

>my boss bought me a gaming rig
What

I get paid by an organization to play for their team and my computer has always been shitty, but it's been especially shitty as of late so I asked if they could help me out and they did. I call him my boss, but I guess the proper term would be the owner of the organization I play for.

My only concerns right now are a few friends were shitting on the CPU cooler and the SSD (Which I just planned to boot from / possibly put a few programs).

Also due the case not having a disk drive (I know I can work around it) I was planning on downloading Windows 10 on a USB and then doing it all from there, but it's something I've never done before and I'm bit confused about the whole thing. From watching a couple videos I think this what I need to do (correct me if I'm wrong please):

1. On the start up I go into bios and boot from the USB
2. Download Windows 10 then move it to the SSD
3. Restart and set the SSD as the new boot drive
4. Take the USB out

I just (like literally a week ago) put together a tower with a logisys 650w psu, but i think the psu was bad as it shuts itself off if i put it under load with an fx-8320 and 1070. If intry to load unigen heaven benchmark at ultra it just shuts down.
Should i just upgrade to a 750w or get the current one replaced as its still under warrenty?
I have been out of the tech market for a while so i dont really know logisys, but it was very highly rated pretty much everywhere i could find it and seems to be of a high enough wattage to fit my needs.

>boss bought me this computer for gaming use

>user, was it a project bonus or something?

I've gotten things like that from a boss when I worked overtime and they didn't want to actually pay me overtime. I once had an entire home office fitted out by office-works, just sent the wishlist to my boss. Most of the time it's just dinner and some wine but occasionally you get good stuff, usually if there were a few 60-80 hour weeks involved. It's never as much as the actual overtime would be worth but nobody pays programmers overtime.

Alternatively, maybe OP is a security guard and has to sit in a gate booth on night shift and do nothing for eight hours or something.

>I get paid by an organization to play for their team
Sounds like a terrible job. Good luck with it.

It really is
/pcag/ - PC Assembly General

Just use it again, I have my 2 computers running off the same key, I think it was originally a university 7 Key but it allowed me to upgrade both to 10 off the same key, even works when I reinstalled windows.

You can't do the w10 upgrade anymore though right? I was planning on just giving my brother this computer and putting w10 on a usb and getting a key from a friend or something.

Dear /pcb/.

I have a little problem with making my new PC right now. Im living in Poland and while shop Im using again ran out of 480 Nitro+, now I also face problem with PSU.

I was pretty much convinced about getting Seasonic S12-II/M12-II 620W, but they are out too. In exchange I was suggested some Cheaftec 750W one, but Im not sure about that. What other similar priced and with similar quality PSU I could get?

Because Im talking about Poland, every price in USD have to be multiplied by around 4,68 (exchange rate +VAT) or 4,5 in case of prices in EUR. Please dont suggest me viewing logicalincrements.com, I know this site and was using it for suggestions, but their PSU list contains models that have absurd prices here.

I also had problems with finding proper cooler for CPU Im planning to get (i7-6700k) - 212 Evo or Raijintek Themis Evo - but they are out as well or not available, so I will probably get them elsewhere. Or perhaps you could suggest other similar priced cooler with similar performance?

Thank you for any help and advice, like always.

>spread the paste
>mfw

the cpu doesnt get to hot. normal usage is ~50°C and while gaming ~70°C

what i forgot to mention is that my pc makes conatantly a clicking sound
linke its running and after every 2 - 20 min its one click. And often it crashses after a click

Sorry for asking such question, but:

MSI RX480 Gaming X 8gb or Sapphire Nitro+ 8gb?

Hybrid drives are trash

>You can't do the w10 upgrade anymore though right?
There is/was a loophole using accessibility features. Google it. They probably don't plan on closing that loophole any time soon but I haven't been keeping track of shit.

Given that they tried to give the entire world a free key, they're not going to kick down doors because you scammed your way into their botnet. They've transitioned into state like gmail's invites. They're becoming a thing that you have to fight to get which is good for marketing purposes.

I know Artic Silver was the go-to paste back in the day, has that changed? Or do I still just buy a tube of that and call it a day.

Whatever has the better temps and noise. If equal (or close enough that it does not matter) then whichever is cheaper. If that is also equal, whichever has the colour that you prefer.

They have similar performance, but popular opinions are that MSI model have less noise and temp than Sapphire one.

I picked up this case the other day. The only "problem" with it is that the USB header (the plastic itself) is a bit messed up. Actually the whole plastic bit has just fallen off now.

Obviously this is a bit of a nuisance, but I'm not exactly gonna send back the whole case because of this.

I would assume that I could just manually plug each individual connector directly into the motherboard? How would I know which one goes where (this is a USB 2.0 header)

Thanks.

>How would I know which one goes where (this is a USB 2.0 header)
If you get that wrong, you burn out that USB port or something. I've done it once with an old mobo that had separate leads that needed to be plugged into the right holes.

I'd cannibalise a header from an old mb, check the mobo/case manual for wiring diagrams on the header cable but if that doesn't help, just email a pic to the support department for the case company and ask them which colour goes where.

The colouring is standard though so you *should* be able to copy if from another case or another USB header if you have two in that case.

dis

Is Thunderbolt something I should care about on motherboards?

I'm looking at a decent gaming mb but it doesn't have Thunderbolt, it's about the only thing it doesn't have.

Can we expect that to get used in the future?

Anybody?

I tried to check out different ones and that S12-II really have best price for quality I coud find.

I have a i5 2500k, this shouldnt be to bad i think...

but where can this clicking can come from? i got my win10 on a ssd and i got 2 m ore hdds

I want a quiet PC.

Are Be Quiet! parts actually quiet?

What's the quietest RX 480?

Fractal Design cases have pretty good noise-dampening.
I have a Be Quiet CPU cooler and a PSU and both are p quiet

>I want a quiet PC.
I'm buying a Jonsbo UMX4, the reviews say that it's super quiet.

Budget: 1500 Canadian give or take couple hundred.

5820k or 6700k

Making my own game engine during 2017.

Graphics card?
16gb ram.
2 monitors
1 or 2 SSD + multiple HDD
Debian + Windows 10

Have a powermac g5 that I will mod for the case cause why not.

>Making my own game engine during 2017.
>Graphics card?
If you're making your own game engine, you better have opinions on your card already. At least whether you're going nvidia or amd.

I want to make a game engine for a strategy game so nothing too demanding. Was probably going to go nvidia 1070 but that might be overkill.

Pack it up and send it to me.

pcpartpicker.com/list/vzmQd6
Is this a good 6700k/1080 build? Will mostly be used for video editing/Adobe programs and heavy gaming at 1440p, and possibly VR.

It doesn't affect anything though other than your autism.

>cable management is hard
Wew

Get a dust filter on the side vent unless you love dust. That cpu hsf is notoriously good for spreading dust all over your motherboard. Exhaust fans don't do shit in removing dust.

Speaking of PSUs. I'm considering picking up a Be quiet! dark power pro 750W, is that a complete overkill and waste of money?

Poorfag here, wanting to get into PC gaming more but my machine (ASUS laptop) is a potato with a screen and can only run source games decently. Budget is tight, so max performance builds are out of the question. Alright anons, here it is: what would be the best build for under $500? If it can run hardware intensive games at medium to low settings I will be happy.

inside-out otherwise you'll be blowing hot air into the case

Depends on your config, overkill unless you're planning to SLI/CF 250W cards

Looks fine but I'd get a 500GB SSD if you have all that money to throw around. Also the 1080 is only 20% faster than the 1070 for a buttload more money.

I would say 1070.

Probably not worth it for a desktop if you already have mGPU capability

Either build in 6 months (Zen or hopefully decreased Intel prices) or get something like this pcpartpicker.com/list/kQWrM8

If you're super poor just drop the SSD

I could buy a EVGA GTX 1080 right now for 569€. Is that a good price? As a bonus, there is also a Gears of War 4 key.

Or you could wait for the GTX 1050 or 1050Ti (probably releasing in Oct). The 1050Ti will be a decent card (though not as good on a price/performance basis as the 470) and let you get away with a $500 build.

Not sure about europoo pricing, but if you care about Gears it's probably a decent deal.

pcpartpicker.com/list/kbxt3F
How's this list for 1440p @ 60hz gaming? GtaV, Witcher3, Overwatch, Doom, World of Warcraft, and Battlefield1 are the games I will be playing on it.
I'm going for an all black/ white astehtic, so I'm willing to pay just a little bit more to get that, but I'm trying to keep all the parts at a reasonable budget. I was hoping to keep the build at around $1000 even, but it seems the GPU and CPU are just damn expensive.
I can see the mobo is a bit expensive. Anybody know good z170 boards that are either all black, or black and white? The asus z170-a looks nice but it has a brown pcb.

But to me the 1080 is a waste of money, considering it's only 20% faster (in games) than a 1070

If you're going to stay at 60Hz you can drop to a i5 6500 without issue to save a little on the CPU. Then you can get rid of the cooler and get a cheaper mobo.

For that build you definitely want an SSD, 250GB is a good size.

The superclocked EVGA card is a reference card with a custom cooler, but the FTW and Classified versions are completely custom if you care about that.

Anyone got any thoughts on this? Good? Bad?
Pls help I'm an amateur.

forgot picture because I'm also retarded

I forgot to mention, I already have a Samsung 850 Evo 250gb that I'm going to use.
I don't think there is a 1070 classy. The FTW version is cool but I see it's main feature set is more overclockability and stability at higher voltages (not needed since I'm staying at 60hz) and rbg lighting. Not a bad suggestion though.

the thing about windowed cases is the dust and smudges tend to drive me crazy, and if it's plastic it's gonna be easy as hell to scratch. i say leave that case to the ricer enthusiasts and go for something a bit more common.

so on the PSU the CPU connector is 8 pin and plugs in fine, but it's 4+4 for the Mobo and I cannot get both in at once. am I really supposed to have both plugged in? I don't see how it can fit side by side

One of the main issues is my ocd, it's difficult to find- at least from my hours of searching, a good squared off computer case that looks nice and is in black and white.

I've not built a pc before, but rounded edges sometimes drive me insane. Another one I was thinking of was the Corsair Carbide 400c. Ideally, though, I wouldn't mind shelling out for a great case that will last me years and continue to look great.

pinch them together, try pressing them in at the same time. go straight down, perpendicular. Give yourself more slack with the cables. Try doing this from several different angels.

You press them together, so they're side-by-side, and then you press it into the socket.

That's why you can't see it fitting, because that little plastic ledge is blocking you from doing that. It's intentional, on their behalf.

pcpartpicker.com/user/sanitysama/saved/K8LkLk

I'm looking to spend a retarded amount of money on my next build. It's going to be an overclockable i7-6700K watercooled and SLI GTX 1080s. I am looking to game at good framerates in 4K. The prospect of VR is also enticing. The grand total will end up over $3,000.

Since this will end up costing a lot I'm really trying to get it right. I'd really appreciate some advice or feedback on the parts I've selected if anyone has some. The only thing I don't have in there is a 4K monitor. I'm only buying the essential parts at first, then adding in the upgrades later, like GPUs, hard drives, optical drive, and the monitor will come later. I'm not in a rush to get this together either.

so I need to take out the one I spent hours putting in, just to put both in at the same time? someone take me out back and shoot me

You can get 3200mhz ram for like $10 more, and get a 250 GB SSD as a boot drive.

If you're not in a rush wait 6mo for the 1080Ti and Zen/Kaby Lake

Get a good SSD, get faster RAM, at least seriously consider upgrading to 5820k/6800k and x99 platform.

hours? the fuck are you doing?

Can you kill or significantly shorten the life of a GPU by highly overclocking while staying under 70°C and not changing the voltage?

struggling with the most basic of things. I've spent like 6-7 hours on this and can't even plug the cables in, let alone test boot or put in GPU, HDD, etc

Do they not go all the way in?
Like, 1mm gap between mobo and the connector?

At least when you're done, you'll have a good understanding of the process.

It's really not that hard though. If it's your first build don't worry about cable management beyond twist ties / zip ties.

Is sentey a good brand or did I just buy a heap of shit PSU

That's why you watch videoguides in beforehand if you don't know what your doing.

New thread

This one hasn't hit its bump limit though.

Alright guys first build, how bad is it?
pcpartpicker.com/list/PNnMCy
Keep in mind i already own the Tower, and heatsink for the cpu

You don't need the Z170 mobo because you have a locked CPU. Considering your PSU is 450W, you can't multiGPU, so just get a B150 mobo.

That mouse and keyboard are expensive as fuck.
SSD is too expensive, try the OCZ 240GB.
HGST is a more reliable HDD manufacturer.
You probably don't need a DVD burner.
The monitor is too small. Just buy an old used 60Hz 1080p monitor off craigslist or something.

B150 got it.
The keyboard was recommended from Keyboard General, and it has some decent reviews so i'm gonna stick with it, but the mouse is a placeholder what do you recommend?
Will do.
HGST got it.
My buddy told me to get a burner for windows.
What do you recommend for a monitor if i eventually want to go dual monitor?

>My buddy told me to get a burner for windows.
No, bootable USB drive. Way fucking better.

>What do you recommend for a monitor if i eventually want to go dual monitor?
A used 1080p 60Hz off CL, then sell it and buy a 2560 x 1080p ultrawide. If you're just using the second monitor for productivity, not gaming, just look around for a common monitor when you're buying the first one so that you can get a matching one later.

Do not listen to this rambling buffoon. The ducky is a top tier keyboard. And anyone who recommends an OCZ brand ssd is shite.

Samsung or Intel are the way to go for SSD's that have good warranties and just werk. OCZ has a terrible track record.

I would personally recommend a steelseries rival mouse but when it comes to mice and keyboards it's all a matter of opinion (as long as you don't get something like a trash Dell keyboard).

If you can spare the cash and want a beauty of a monitor that works great with multiple monitor setups, look into getting a dell ultrasharp u2414h or u2415. These are fantastic monitors with a sexy thin frame design.

Ultrawide monitors are a meme and very impractical.

>go for SSD's that have good warranties and just werk
OCZ has a 3 year warranty.

The guy is spending $100 on a monitor. Doubt he wants to spend 400-500 bucks on 1080p monitors when he could spend significantly less.

Ultrawide monitors are only bad for the average movie, sometimes they're amazing if the movie supports the aspect ratio. New games usually come with support. You're sounding like you've got a case of the sour grapes m8

4790k and gtx 1070

Never start a new thread until the old one hits its bump limit, unless the thread hits its image limit or the thread is literally on fire

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Guys I need help semi fast this is the build I have all the parts but the motherboard came defective and I need a new one help choose one that's compatible and sold by memory express please

Http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/BwCBjc

Thanks to vastly improved iGPUs in modern Intel CPUs and DisplayPort right on the mobo, do HTPCs even need any dedicated GPUs anymore even for 4K video content?

Any microATX H110 or B150 will work.

ark.intel.com/products/90729/Intel-Core-i3-6100-Processor-3M-Cache-3_70-GHz
Check graphics specs

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So where should you download Microsoft Toolkit and what version?
Googling returns a ton of sketchy sites and different versions.

Whats this?

New Thread

Extratorrent, SademPC or whatever.

Just a saved image, looks like southeast Asia to me.

Will a Asus h110m c work or am I better going with somethingyou recommended?

It's fine

>Do nvidia cards freesync too?
>Isn't freesync basically free hardware synchronization?
I suppose they could but why would nvidia do something free when they can charge for it?

gsync and freesync do the same thing and freesync is (sortof) open source.

Gsync is objectively better though...maybe not by much but you can tell under certain circumstances, it will better handle laggy games or something like that. Freesync has some advantages but they're only really small ones and gsync has some slightly bigger ones.

There's no legal reason why nvidia couldn't use Freesync but amd invented it so they're not going to, it was only invented to compete with gsync anyway.

They both use extra hardware, gsync needs more extra hardware but really the $200 difference is for nvidia licenses.

>I'm sure there's more knowledge people who will correct me, but that's the gist of it
More like freesync is AMD's version of gsync but yeah, you're about right.
Happy to oblige ^_^

>What kinda case should I buy?
I kind of like jonsbo cases. I ordered silver, windowed UMX4, pic related.

Gotta check cooler compatibility though.

I'm not going full rice, the only leds will be the mb ones but since that includes Aura, I'll have it glow with CPU temperature. That will be a nice way to know how my OC is doing.

>mGPU capability
>Thunderbolt

I've got a 1070, I was just wondering what peripherals we're expecting to use Thunderbolt in the future. VR?

>open frame case
Your components will probably get dusty, you'll need to actually dust your mobo every now and then.