/mkg/ - mechanical keyboards general

Should I buy an Ajazz ak33?

I don't want to spend any more after my Ducky died.

he wants it to be quiet/silent

Matias quiet click switches are the only readily available kind I know of that are both quiet and strongly tactile.

Except they're not quiet.

Seems like the consensus so far has been Matias Quiet. Seeing as actual usage quality is more important than looks, it looks like that's what I'm going to have to go with, which is unfortunate, because some research shows that Matias' don't have a lot of available keycaps, since most are made with Cherry stems, which sucks because I was really excited about the Godspeed keycaps.

That said, does anyone know of any way to modify Cherry keycaps to work with Matias switches?

Alternatively is there a sort of universal keycap? I believe I've seen a sort of double cap before, where there's a blank smooth keycap, and then sort of a secondary, thinner cap, that goes on top of that.

I'd really like to get the SA/DSA style caps for the Matias.

yooo

I can't find keycaps for my 6gv2 because it has that retarded enter key... Anyone knows if there are sets of keycaps for this layout?

Ducky shine 2, brown, red LEDs.

I regret getting a full size keyboard.

*looks up pics*
jesus christ that's almost as bad as the corsair bottom row

Alps type switches are fantastic but keycap options are sadly lacking because they don't have meme status.

I've never seen alps/cherry hybrid caps nor an easy way to make them fit each other's stems. The mounts are very different and their cross-sections conflict.

Also I've only seen IBM buckling spring boards with those two-part keycaps you describe.

>100-120$
>UK
>Medium Tactile or Medium Clicky
>ANSI
>100%
>Backlit but nothing crazy
>Using a laptop so N/A

How could I make a mechanical keyboard as quiet as possible? I want to use it for Uni without distracting other people in the class.

Replace whatever switches are in yours with matias QC or those new cherry silent switches.

Or just get a laptop with a keyboard that doesn't suck ass.

Does anyone here have experience typing on gateron clears?

Yes.

Feel like pillars of air.
Any other questions?

Can any of you mechanical experts suggest me a keyboard that's nice and efficient to use when programming?

122 key Model M.

Brand? Model?

Unique keyboard terminus mini. I just painted it which was a bitch.

Do you find it difficult to be accurate? I'm looking for the absolute lowest resistance possible, while still having actual travel (ie not one of those touch keyboards), but often touch the sides of other keys when pressing the one I'm aiming for and am worried that it will lead to lots of typos with a light linear.

Non-zero chance I'd try putting the springs in my current keyboard with blues; have you tried this, and are there jamming issues?

I like it, simple diy project

It took me a few days to get used to switches this light, but I don't make more typos than I do with my seven other mechanical keyboards.

I'd easily say that these are my favorite switches, up there with Topre. They're incredibly nice to type on, it just feels like you're pushing down on a pillar of air that dissipates as you push down on the keycap.

I haven't done a whole lot in the direction of replacing springs except for one or two in single switches, but there's not a whole lot to it. Just make sure you put the switch together again the right way and you're golden.

Thanks! I'll order some tonight. Think I might try building an atreus, with a ~30 degree tilt. Maybe a shape sort of like the Esrille keyboard

How are Gateron clears for gaming?

like any light linear, just lighter. I use them for gaming all the time and I've got no complaints.

What does the Barebones, blanks and MOD keycaps mean when ordering the tada?

i just can't get used to the nav cluster being above the numpad. im having a far easier time acclimating to using FN to access them on a 60% kb

barebones is probably referring to the keyboard without any keycaps, blanks should be self-explanatory and mod keycaps are the keycaps that are featured in the pictures. Or at least that's what I'd guess. I'd just send them an email if I were you, the whole matter is quite lacking in explanation, but they're quite quick to get back to customer emails, so you'll have your answer soon enough.

Thanks I enjoy it for everyday use but my poker with brows is nice for games so dont accidentally press shit.

If you shake the keyboard up and down, will it be enough for the keys to type out something?

>amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Storm-QuickFire-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L10/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1475188820&sr=8-10&keywords=Cherry brown

Is there anything wrong with these cooler master boards other than shitty keycaps? It looks pretty good for the price.

No, that's not how physics work.

so say I want a compact minimal keyboard, but i'm retarded. Do they sell things like this or is it a DIY project only? I can't build something like that

hey my old keyboard just died
fuck do I buy

oh there's the thing in the OP
rip

probably about $100 or so?
in the US
probably clear switches? I'm new to mechs
100% definitely
backlights pls
my old one was cheap and shitty, so a new one

this be my model m

Do I count?

HHKB or TKL realforce?
>most of my typing is C, C++, bash scripts and LaTeX.
>My editor is vim
>I think the realforce is more convenient but I like the HHKB meme status so my gay self wants to be part of the kool kidz klub.

Eww... Those keycaps are nasty.

Listen if you want to become a meme then get a HHKB. If you want to become a supreme meme then get an IBM model M SSK. If you want to show of your financial meme status then get an IBM model M Industrial SSK if you can afford a $1000 keyboard

Will godspeed look like shit on a black case?

They're nice and comfy, I could care less about the font.

>Blue switches
What the fuck have I done

It does. Even the one picture they provided looks like bad compared to the white case

>They're nice and comfy
Not until you've tried out PBT keycaps, now those are comfy. Also they only cost $30-35

Generally not very durable, the rubbery finish on the case will also wear pretty fast. That said, I have one and it was just fine for 2 years, until I decided to get something better. CMStorm is babby's first mech but that doesn't mean it's bad, just not great.

when

not fucking soon enough

what keyboard???

keyboard and keycaps??? nigga that looks sweet as fuck

It's a 3D render m8, the caps aren't actually made yet.

Its the TX1800. If you just want the plate and PCB it will cost you $70. If you want the full thing with the metal case and switches it will cost you $350

these are the keycaps
massdrop.com/buy/godspeed-custom-sa-keycap-set
As for the keyboard this user is right its just a 3D render, however the ducky one is an exact copy of that style

Pic related is my ducky one. Hope it fits your bill

just got my filco ninja tkl with cherry reds, they sound so silent compared to other keyboards i have had and they feel amazing... I'm so glad I went with this rather than a ducky or rgb board that I was looking into(even though filcos are pretty overpriced).

Do they make them in an ISO Layout? I'm looking for a TKL keyboard with reds in ISO and so far all I've found is the WASD v2 board but it's really pricey.

Yes they do
keyboardco.com/keyboard/uk-filco-ninja-majestouch-2-tenkeyless-nkr-soft-linear-action-keyboard.asp

Just got this as my first Mechanical after having used rubber domes all my life with gateron brown switches, and I have to say the difference isn't all that staggering. I feel like I can type a little more fluidly, at the very best, now that I've gotten used to it, but for some reason I just expected more.

I don't regret it, it was only sixty dollars and it's a nice keyboard, but.... shit man, I don't know. What am I missing?

You should've gotten blues or reds as your babby's first switch.

These are loud enough as it is, I can't imagine the click-clack-patty-whack of blues. And coming from rubber done I don't think I'd like the no-resistance linearity of reds. I want that breaking point before actuation.

Then all you got was a rugged keyboard with mushy switches. What did you expect?

>And coming from rubber done I don't think I'd like the no-resistance linearity of reds.
Considering rubber dome + membrane is tactile and requires moderate force, I don't understand the comparison.

it's not a comparison, he's saying he doesn't want linear switches, because he's used to tactile rubberdomes.

What do you mainly use your keyboard for?

I never understood this noise meme if you stand more then a few feet away it sounds as loud as a rubber dome, unless you're some monkey that just mashes the switches. If you never bottom out the keyboard is actually pretty quiet. But then again I do have an IBM model M and I don't mind the noise it makes

Just got this motherfucker, and meme or not it's pretty comfy so far. Really liking the layout too.

how slow do you have to type to spout such insane bunch of rancid malarkey, with a straight face?

Shitposting and video games.
the way people talk about rubber domes around here? Something more.
I don't mind the sound, I just don't find it particularly pleasant. I had a low profile rubber dome that was exceptionally mushy, and therefore exceptionally quiet. I can't type as fast on this (not yet at least) since there's so much more travel time to actuation and I have to pick up my fingers a lot more to transfer from letter to letter.

Should have tried clears, or at least something more tactile than mx browns.

...

...

...

...

>Shitposting and video games.

You got the middle of the road babby's first safe switch which is mediocre for both.

whatever, clown.

About 70-75 wpm. Also I use some pretty heavy 100g springs. Thats more then double a mx blue

Any of these bad boys wireless? I'm in the market for a new keyboard and I'd like to be able to switch between wired/wireless

No, but you can swap out the controller for a bluetooth one

So, I've got a compact-ish mechanical keyboard, but I miss the numpad I used to have with the shitty $10 keyboard I used before it.

I don't really want to buy an entirely new keyboard, so is there some sort of compromise? Do mechanical switch numpad exist (I.e. just the numpad)?

idk what to use anymore

So there are no dedicated wireless ones? Why do so many of these pics have no wires?

They drill holes in their desks

Many of them have detachable cables, which they remove in order to take a picture of the keyboard by itself.

Because they're homos.

Well that's disingenuous
Well that's retarded

There are wireless ones. They're rarer, though. Matias makes a couple ALPS ones, and there are some MX switch ones from Filco/Varmilo/Rapoo.

why?

How would one go around making a custom keycap?

Does anyone know why my typeheaven feels softer than my HHKB?

I thought that they were the same switches...

Plate mount vs case mount

Ah, that makes sense. Cheers.

This actually happens on the spacebar of an anne pro senpai. It's got some terrible rattly stabilizers though.

>RGB
>KBT/Greetech Switches

Would this be a good babby's first keyboard?

Man, you have terrible grasp of physics then.

>Budget
As cheap as possible with out sacrificing performance.
>Location (continent at least)
US - Ohio
>Preferred switch type
Cherry MX Blue's but willing to try anything similar.
>Layout
ANSI QWERTY
>Form factor
60% perfered but i could go for a 75%
>Backlight
idgaf one way or the other.
>Previous/current keyboards
Current keyboard is a logitech G710 with Cherry MX Blue's but i have most of my typing life spent on a rubber dome G15.

Any good recommendations Cred Forums? I am sick of how large this thing is... (pic related)

>Budget
under $200
>Location (continent at least)
US
>Preferred switch type
Cherry MX Brown (or equivalent)
>Layout
US
>Form factor
60%
>Backlight
White > Red > None
>Previous/current keyboards
IBM Model M

Looking for something Bluetooth.

Is there any cheap chink DSA profile keycap set? I want to make a keyboard with a curved backplate so I need flat profile.

Pok3r, Anne pro or Magicforce 68. all good keyboards for the price.

this might be a stupid question....
will these keycaps fit on my CM Storm QuickFire Stealth - Compact Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with CHERRY MX BLUE

massdrop.com/buy/npkc-side-legend-pbt-keycap-set

Been using this for a month and love it, however, I prefer mechanical switches for vidya, so I decided I'll make a board this time.

So far got:

70 pack of Zealios (10 extra just in case)
Granite DSA
GH60 pcb from ebay
and making an aluminum case on my CNC as well as a stainless steel plate if I can manage not fucking up the sharp edges (may have to waterjet)

Design is going to be literally the same as my HHKB since I've grown accustomed to the layout, except with a plate.

Anyone know of a better material, plate-wise? I have access to many options.

Please I need some guidance on this.

It's my birthday soon and my wife is nagging me for an anwser of what to get me.

>mfw found my endgame setup and got out of the game early
who else /donespendingmoney/ here?

user I'd help you more but I'm about to go to sleep.

Look into Ducky boards with mx browns or blues.

I like linears more than I thought I would. Specifically gateron linear switches.

I still have to try out topre though.

>making an aluminum case
You plan to anodize it?

Of course! Haven't decided on a particular color yet.

Duck Viper or HHKB with mx sliders?

So, at home?
I was planning to order a plate laser cut and then anodize it. The process seems quite complicated and dangerous though, so I'm still not sure if it worth it.

Where did you find that hanging ornament?

Well, I'm not going to deny that, but please explain how that would work. Since there's nothing providing resistance to push down and actuate the switch other than the switch, the only thing that I could see causing actuation would be the resistance of the air, in which case I'd have to move that keyboard pretty damn fast.
Unless there's something I'm missing of course, see my initial statement.

You mean the keychain with the switch in it? Got that on lagdrop some time ago.

Will do, thanks.

So I had a look and am thinking of this, the Ducky Shine 5 Mechanical Keyboard. It's the brown switch version which, according to their site is a Tactile switch. I'd much rather a Clear for a bit of more stiffness as I am a bit heavy handed with my typing.

I'm building a gaming rig (this is not why I've chosen the one with the most lights on it) and will apply this keyboard mostly to gaming. I think it's a good choice, what do you guys think?

I also found the 'Nature White' switch version but I'm not entirely sure what this translates to; the Clear switch maybe? Unfortunately it doesn't specify what kind of switch it is.

Shine 3 with MX browns here, love the way the thing feels but the tactile bump isn't very prominent and the switches are very light (which I happen to like).
I've also used reds and kinda want to try blues now.

I think I'd much rather have a decent bump - I'll have a look at the blues.

55g linears

So a bit like the Black? I hadn't considered it because I want a bump, any experience with them?

i bought an AEK
what kind of a gay adapter do i need?

What keyboard is this?

If I use pic related, what profile keycaps do I need to get for it? I will need to replace those ugly motherfuckers asap.

Varmilo VA68M.

Forgot link, amzn.com/B01E57PUNA

Gateron switches

pick up a slinky and shake it around. There's nothing pushing against it, so it should just move rigidly as though it were a ridgid object, right?

The answer to your dumb question is inertia. I don't know why you would use "physics" as the reason something doesn't happen when you don't know how physics works.

Keys don't actuate if you shake a board around because the springs are pushing back with enough force to prevent that. except for that spacebar the other user mentioned, in that case the spring is too weak since the spacebar is heavier than the other keys, and also maybe poorly balanced?

inertia isn't the only factor tho

Is there a keyboard with the layout of the FC660M with backlighting?

I can't find anything with that exact layout and a backlight, however the closest I was able to find is this
mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?keyword=&brand=48&switch=&size=60%&led=&capmat=&capprint=&model=&availability=&show_kb=off&show_kb=on&show_acc=off&show_acc=on

Stupid question but is it possible to put UK keycaps on a US layout keyboard?

I'm thinking about getting a tada.
Has anyone had experience with the MOD switches? Are they any good? I've also never tried Gaterons. Only switches I have experience with are Cherry Blue, Khail Blue, and Topre. I've been looking at greens because I like the heavy actuation force, but I am also concerned about the decibel level. I like clicky, but I don't need gunshot clicky. How are the clears?

GET TOPRE.

Thanks.

Gateron blues vs mx blues?
I have only felt mx browns and razer chink shit. I liked the razer desu.

Any mechanical keyboards with short travel distance but still feel nice like a true mechanical keyboard?

Just saying that Gateron browns are a league above Cherry browns. They actually feel like a tactile switch and not like a linear switch with dirt inside.

Nothing is a true mechanical keyboard

U know what I meant, silly.

No I don't

goddammit this is the dumbest fucking meme on the internet. you have severe autism if you need to hear clacking when you type.

):<
I want it to feel clicky clacky but with short travel distance, is there such a thing?

Magicforce 68 up on Assdrop

My Matias board makes even less noise than your rubbershit, faggot.

Why would I want to buy it on there, and wait till December for it to ship, when I can get it on Amazon right now with 2 day shipping?

There is a pretty glaring difference between the two user

The problem is the companies that manufactured the switches went bankrupt so finding them is hard.
Look for futaba, mitsumi, or space invader switches. Those are the lowest profile switches that I know

I'm actually going for this but with MX Blues, you can find the Whites on Amazon but it's an extra £100.

Aside from the hideous typewriter key caps, what's different?

well, you can order it with whatever switch and color you want

who cares about sound. this is mine and its amazing

get a novatouch or any other topre keyboard

here's my keyboard with its setup, should I get a mouse too?

You should get a real computer to use the ps/2 port

No I have a tool and die shop

How did I do G?

How's this adaptor performing? I have an old G80-11900 and cannot really use it with my chink ps/2 -> usb, because it has zero key rollover, really annoying. My desktop hasn't got ps/2 now too because mini-itx.

Filco is an excelent no frills keyboard. They are a bit pricey but that doesnt mean they are bad

perfection

>no numpad
Are you doing anything besides games on your computer?

>spray painted

this adapter works very well for me actually, I read about the difference between a ps2 adapter and a converter, so this one should be converting the signal to something that translates well
I can modify what the keys do and stuff in my computer settings and it shows up as ps2 to USB converter or something like that
pretty neat I'd say it's worth the extra few pounds over a cheap one

Excuse me good sir, but could you please post a link to this particular converter on the internet? I couldn't find anything in less than 30 bucks, my opinion it's too much for such a device.

I got a full size keyboard and I'm loving it, really glad I didn't get anything else.

>make ctr+alt+c a shortcut to window's calc.exe
>dat numpad utility
>using excel
>dat numpad utility

Using the keyboard numbers vs the numpad numbers is very much like the difference between peck typing and touchtyping, there's even a bump on the center number of the numpad to keep you centered

inertia and spring resistance are the main factors. Air resistance is less important than those. Now I know that that seidentech guy is really not very smart, and I should never take his advice.

oh wow yea 30 would be a bit much, I got mine off UK amazon
amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00062RXVQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1475262564&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ps2 to usb
I'm pretty sure this is the one I ordered not long ago, just that the bit in the middle looks a little different on the one they delivered but like I said I'm sure that's the one I got

Does anyone use the Noppoo Choco Mini? If so, which one is more tactile? The blue Noppoo's or the blue Gateron?

Viper, mang

Thank you, although I'm not in UK and not every shop ships to my country, I know what to look up to at least.

Love it. Question, is there a cad file of that case floating around anywhere? I'm sure I could make a plate on swillkb but I want to pretty much make this exact case. I'm the user from last night who was posting about the custom board with zealios and the gh60 pcb.

Scaratch that, I found this. I'm going to use a 6.25u spacebar though

whoops forgot image. I'll just make a beeg rectangle and mess with the backside later

anyone with cherry mx blacks that mainly uses it for typing? is it annoying? i wanted to go reds but they felt so fucking light when i tried them

How gay am I?

On a scale from liking futa to gay bottom I'd say you're at the trap level

Are linear switches the smoothest

How is this different from the hhkb other than switches

the caps

When dealing with the springs from a cherry mx board inertia is pretty much not a factor. The material the spring is made of has more of an effect then inertia. The spring constant and its tensile/torsion properties plays more into the switch actuating just by shaking it. Not to mention the spring isn't suspended in air there are other parts such as the plastic housing, the metal leaf, plastic stems, etc.
Summing up everything as inertia is a just wrong

Looking at Magicforce on massdrop,

how are gateron switches? Never used them.

They are smoother then cherry switches. Honestly they aren't bad, its just a preference on what meme you want to buy
youtube.com/watch?v=2Iz4ovUIWwQ&feature=youtu.be

i want to cum inside your keboipussi

>Budget
under $200
>Location (continent at least)
Canada
>Preferred switch type
Cherry MX Clear
>Layout
US ansi
>Form factor
tenkeyless, or %60
>Backlight
White or None
>Previous/current keyboards
Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2013, and some shitty HP keyboard that gave me carpal tunnel.

I know its in the US, but I'm sure you can find some of these on amazon or a Canadian direct import store.
mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?keyword=&brand=&switch=9&size=&led=&capmat=&capprint=&model=&availability=&show_kb=off&show_kb=on&show_acc=off&show_acc=on

fukn sexy. How much was total cost?

They're okay. Nothing to write home about. My only issue is that I double type way too much on these.

Just got my first mk
Guess what brand/switches

Filco with browns.

filco majestouch 2, browns

Any experience with Kinesis Advantage 2 style keyboards? I wish there was a way to try one before blowing three hundo, but I would love a highly ergonomic keyboard.

if you want it in that style then I have no idea. However there are old ergonomic keyboards that have a split style for around a hundred dollars
ebay.com/itm/NEW-PC-Accessories-KB-7001-Ergonomic-White-Alps-Keyboard-USB-Soarers-Converter-/282144738783?hash=item41b1230ddf:g:0hYAAOSwZVlXudaf

yup good answers.
6750 yen.

tada68 round2 ends today

originativeco.com/products/tada68

Oh, hi midorin.

they have a shine 6 out in the next few weeks

supposed to have a new RGB controller and software support.

sup seiden.
pulling an all nighter?

test

Some of those old typewriters are cool as shit. My dad had one, and he treasured it.

He wrote his dissertation on it.

Probably not, gotta do shit tomorrow.

Hopefully my chinkpad will be here by then.

What was it for?
Its funny my physics teacher went to MIT and told me that Richard Stalman's keyboard was so worn out the legends had faded completely because of all the coding he did

...

what chinkpad did you buy?

also I didn't get a keycap puller with minedid you pay extra for it?

>120 gbp +50gbp customs..fml

right your x220. it's a nice machine, best used with a good distro (keep in mind that the wireless drivers are proprietary only), else if you want to go with winblows expect some slight overheating especially if it has less than 8 gig of ram. One last thing, it's more of a personal preference, but try to upgrade the display panel. it's sexier with an IPS panel.
other than that it's solid and mobile, the last of its breed.

X220, 8gigs of ram, 128gb ssd (probably just going to pop in one or two 500gb SSDs that I have laying around), IPS panel and an i7.

And yeah, i'll be running BotnetOS on it.

IPS, damn thats nice. Just bought myself a t420 with 9 cell. A bit heavy carrying it around all day, but hella comfy.

Am I able to use any keycap set with magicforce? Default ones are a bit too edgy for me

I'm ordering an Ajazz AK33. Has anyone used DSA caps on it? Mind posting a pic?

>Ducky Shine II
>MX Black
>Blue Backlights
>Chinese characters (in addition to English) because English-only was never in stock
>Tenkeyless
>BEST PERIPHERAL PURCHASE EVER

yes, any keycap set that works on cherry keyboards will also be compatible with magiforce. Now some keycaps won't work all that well with LEDs. but it shouldn't be a problem if you don't care/turn them off

>Budget
Location (continent at least)
Aus
>Preferred switch type
Any linear switch, doesn't need to be Cherry
>Layout
US ANSI
>Form factor
84 key, I think these are 75%?
>Backlight
None
>Previous/current keyboards
CM quickfire Red, KBT pure pro brown

Don't mind chink keyboards

the nopppoo you posted is a great choice, Keycool also makes 84 key ones too

What kind of keycaps should I get for my CM storm quickfire tk ISO? I heard the bottom row is fucked up so Im not even sure if any keycaps fit. Also, is it worth investing into a pok3r keyboard?

youtube.com/watch?v=2JJ5r8wTZ5E
this youtube video should help give you an idea on what to look for
GMK hydro (pic related) would work
keyclack.com/product/gb-gmk-hydro/
but you better me fast since tomorrow is the last day.

Any dotards here that use a mechanical keyboard?

I would get a 60% but I need the F row for lots of shit.

What's the best 75% keyboard for someone who has never used one before?

It's ANSI anyways so it wouldn't fit my EUcucked layout. Thank you you though, legitimate help on Cred Forums is rare

First whats the budget?
I can give you $300 keyboards or $40 keyboards. So if you can give me a maximum amount I can shoot some recommendations at you.

but there is an iso kit included in the set

Oh you're right... But to be honest with you, isn't $150 for the base a little bit much? I mean, you could easily buy a new keyboard

Rec $50 $80 $110

If they only offered say a TKL set then they can drop the price down to $80. However if you wanted to include an ISO kit that would be extra, or if you use a non standard row that would also be extra. So in order to make it cheaper overall they include every key they manufacture. And while $150 for a custom set might seem to high its actually about the average these things cost with all the options.

Another cheaper option might be the godspeed set on massdrop.
massdrop.com/buy/godspeed-custom-sa-keycap-set
The ISO kit is split into two options with UK and Nordic as your only two choices

>Budget
$200 maximum but I would like it to be cheap as possible without sacrificing performance
>Location (continent at least)
Canada
>Preferred switch type
No idea, I've tried browns and they feel nice but I think I would be able to use reds.
>Layout
I think ANSI
>Form factor
Small. 65-75% I guess.
>Backlight
Couldn't hurt
>Previous/current keyboards
Using almost exclusively an x230 for the past year and a bit. Really used to the keyboard and I like the size. One thing that would be tough for me to get used to is separation of the function keys because they are squished together on the x230 keyboard. Also the fn and Ctrl switch.

Thank you, I'm going to look into it for a bit.

see

I'm going to assume you are the same person

One recommendation would be the noppoo choc mini (pic related) for arounf a 100 usd. It sells in a variety of switches and comes with a couple of LED options.

A supper cheap option would be the Tomoko. it only comes with blue Outemu switches, but its water resistant and costs $35
amazon.com/TOMOKO-Mechanical-Keyboard-Water-Resistant-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01DBJTZU2
As far as build quality is concerned the consistency of the switches isn't the best as their quality control is not as good as cherry, but its still a very solid keyboard for the low price it has.

Now the one that I would recommend the most out of all the options out there is a Ducky one TKL. mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?keyword=&brand=1&switch=&size=Tenkeyless&led=&capmat=&capprint=&model=&availability=&show_kb=off&show_kb=on&show_acc=off&show_acc=on
Most of these are sold out as it is a very good board, but if you can find one in stock in your area go for it. They have nice features such as three layer programmable macros on almost every key.

I also want to add if you want RGB LEDs Ducky has some coming, but they are for preorder only as they tend to sell out very fast
mechanicalkeyboards.com/search.php?keyword=&brand=1&switch=&size=Tenkeyless&led=8&capmat=&capprint=&model=&availability=&show_kb=off&show_kb=on&show_acc=off&show_acc=on

These caught my eyes as I was looking through the thread.

I think I'll go for the noppoo because of the way the F keys are squished. I will keep a lookout for the Ducky.

Thanks for the help!

If you do go for the nopppoo then getting aftermarket keycaps will be very difficult and will require a bit of creativity likeunless you don't care then its fine

Apart from the spacebar the rest is standard isn't it?

yes everything is standard except for the space bar.

the short right shift can be difficult to find, and the profiles of the rightmost nav keys will be different if you're buying a generic set

Bump does anyone know the answer and also which one is the less linear?

What is your favourite anime? Mine is "Mouretsu Pirates"

get the noppo with gaterons of your choice.

i'm really not a fan of all these fags and homos. personally i think we should get rid of all fags and homos in these threads.

I'll be getting MOD-M switches. I've used Cherry MX Blue and Red, Gateron Blue and Brown, and Alps Whites. Rep's told me that MOD-M will probably be the best fit as they're a bit heavier than Cherry MX Blue but with a longer, stronger tactile bump that, according to a YouTube video testing the MODs, feels similar to Topre 45g.

I'm in doubt that MOD switches can replicate the crispy feeling of Alps/Matias switches but it'll be good enough for me since the switches are compatible with most of my keycap sets.

??but then you wont be able to post your opinions any more??

man i really was on the fence about getting that kb but there's a price point where it's like "that is just way too much for a hobby like this" and yet i've spent just as much money on 3 other keyboards.

I would have bought it if it was all one piece desu

no dude you are wromng i am not a fag.

Oh, also forgot to mention: Cherry Blues/Greens, Gateron Blues and Kailh Blues all have a high-pitched, chirpy click. Alps Whites and Matias Clicks have more of a "gunshot click" due to a combination of the dull click and metalic ping when you bottom out (unless there are dampeners for alps/matias switches out there)

agreed, having to assemble it was another detractor for me as well. im terrible with hardware.

Can I get a serious answer to this? I know nothing about the Noppoo's switch and Gateron switches.

I've been WoW raiding and running Mythics on Cherry Black switches and my left hand starts to burn after a raid ends or a few Mythics in a row. Is this carpal tunnel or just my hand building strength on the switches?

what is your favourite anime?

Noppoo's switches are unbranded Outemus made by Gaote.

Both are more tactile than Cherry switches, but the Gaterons are moreso. Also better build quality than the Outemus.

Girls urd Panzer

gateron > cherry

However, gateron has more key wobble.

thats a pretty good one

I have no idea why others keyboards even exist.

What do you mean more key wobble? You mean that the key shakes when I floor it?

Alright thanks guess I'm going for Gaterons, but I thought Gaterons were bad because they're just clones.

no tenting and good luck replacing the keycaps when you realize your memes have gotten stale and LOL that esc placement

Needs more tilt to the halves.

you need inverse tilt as well, and a different angle on the thumb and finger clusters. ergodox is a literal trash RSI factory

That could be on purpose.

Like ALPS switches, where the stem is allowed some wobble room to reduce friction. Contrast with NMB space invaders, which are the most stable switches known but need to be lubed before they're great to type on.

>I thought Gaterons were bad because they're just clones

All these non-cherry MX-style switches are clones. Gaterons though are generally regarded as superior to Cherry's own switches. They're smoother and the clicky/tactile variants have more pleasant tactile feedback because Gateron actually took into account user feedback and designed the tactile bumps on their sliders to that effect.

>pic
too small difference between fingers, fingers have a different length, and this difference bigger than difference between columns on your keyboard.

Also keys must have different height,
asdfghjkl - lowest row

Key wobble is a matter of how much the stem inside the switch is allowed to tilt. As long as it's not excessive enough to make you miss keys or collide keycaps, it actually makes the switch smoother since there's less stem-on-housing contact during the keystroke.

you can shop around and find them in gateron and cherry switches. just takes a little bit of looking around.

>What do you mean more key wobble?

It means more LEWD.

Until this thing gets finalized, the ergodox is the next best thing imo.

Pic related is keyboard of almost 2 years

>Duck Viper
what caps are those? so sexy

looks like Granite DSA

For serious I wonder how hard it'd be wire one of these up as a keyboard, add some modifiers. Or if it'd be easier to build something mechanically similar up from scratch.

If the Gaterons are better than the Noppoo switches then why are the Noppoo switches more expensive?

Not bad.

>that bottom row

not him but numpad on a layer works out smoothly, toggling the layer isn't weirder than toggling caps lock or insert, and even if i wanted a numpad it would be a standalone numpad which i wouldn't place where the mouse is supposed to be (for a right-handed person)

i have noppoo choc mini rgb with noppoo blue switches and i think they're fine although i haven't tried gaterons for comparison. if you don't need rgb lighting (i think rgb only comes with noppoo switches) then gaterons should be a safe choice since those are more common and praised in the mech keyboard community. but there could be some minor version differences besides the switches, like the gateron version doesn't have a removable cable, don't know if the non-rgb noppoo switch version has a removable cable but mine with rgb does.

this but the stock keycaps are great and thicc and you can get a stock white PBT keycap set (blank or with legends) which you could use as is or you can take just the white spacebar and alphas and combine it with other modifiers or something

Sexy, but keys itself not ergonomic

Same with more ergonomic keys

It's almost sad to admit, but:

TADA68>HHKB

Triple six confirms truth.
Anyway, why are people raving over it? Looks like a generic 65% with a boring plastic build.

Just call me when I can buy the MOD switches in it.

>Anyway, why are people raving over it?
It's a very nice form factor, fully programmable, comes with 1.5mm dyesubbed PBT in cherry profile, the plastic case and the metal plate are both solid as shit and it comes with a wide variety of switch options.

All of that for roughly 100 bucks. Let me know once you find another keyboard that offers this much value at this price. Even if it were to cost twice as much, I could easily consider this one of the best keyboards I've ever come across.

Is the you from yesterday still around?

originativeco.com/products/tada68

As in just the switches, not the whole board.

Eh, the keycaps are nice and the programmability too, but hmm.
With MOD switches it comes to $139, which is the same price as a Pok3r RGB, that also has thick PBT keys (although laser-etched) and an aluminium case (painted but whatever).

At that price if I had to choose, I think Pok3r still has better value unless MOD switches become a hotter meme than overpriced membra-err I mean Topre.

Of course, if you go for the newfangled switch that literally just hit the market it's going to be more expensive.

Last I checked the keycaps on the pok3r RGB were doubleshot ABS. And the plastic case of the tada feels almost as sturdy as the metal case of my friends poker, with the difference that the plastic case of the tada doesn't resonate when you hit the spacebar.

And full programmability is godsend.

What's the cheapest %60 keyboard out there that isn't complete ass? I want something super minimalist. Doesn't need lights or any of that crap, just as long as I can change keycaps.

Same here

Ah right, forgot that the RGB version doesn't come with PBT. But alright, I see your point.
Also I'm still curious how good MOD switches are, people are giving them high praise already.

Probably a KBP v60. Pok3r if you want to pay a bit more for a metal housing.

this

Anne pro

>people are giving them high praise already
Mind linking me to that? I haven't found any information regarding them apart from what can be seen on originative.

Sold out everywhere :(

youtube.com/watch?v=pb5M8nXUdCY
Fairly well-known guy who tried them out at a meetup.

Is the pok3r rgb with cherry blue switches a good first 60% board? Am thinking of getting one but it's a little difficult finding one where I am (Britain). Is mechanicalkeyboards.com reliable maybe? Any advice will he appricared.

Cheers.

I ordered mine from there about a month ago. Site is very reliable and popular, also for international shipping.
It's a great keyboard, but I bought the non-RGB version with browns.

There's corus-kb for the same thing but in europe, but their stock is a lot smaller and many are ISO layouts. If you're patient enough, a new store is opening in europe fairly soon and will have Pok3rs in stock as well at mykeyboard.eu.

Jesus christ what is this monstrosity

2hipster4u.

Havent been keeping up with news since i bought into the whitefox meme but this looks good.

Hey I'd totally love a hydrodipped HHKB with CMYK keycaps.

Thanks user. I'm in debate to either go for the pok3r or the varmilo va68a.

Are those the MOD keycaps? Their website is kind of lacking in description of what the difference between the barebones/MOD.

Also, what are MOD switches?

Barebones just means no keycaps.

thanks

I use taihao.

I can't decide if I want blank caps or not.

Are you ever going to use dvorak/nonstandard layouts? Then yes, yes definitely.

It's also a normierepellant.

Probably. I guess you're right, I'll almost certainly get rid of the dumb arrow keys.

what about me?

hug / 10, maybe cuddles.

>Budget
under $100
>Location
USA
>Preferred switch type
Clear or green
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
100%
>Backlight
no
>Previous/current keyboards
Ducky with browns, WASD v2 with clears
I can use the keycaps from the WASD keyboard. I want a keyboard with function keys

>Budget
$30-$60
>Location (continent at least)
Chicago, IL
>Preferred switch type
Brown
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
100%
>Backlight
Don't care
>Previous/current keyboards
Logitech Classic Keyboard 200

I'm a mechanical keyboard virgin and want to do something with my paycheck, especially since this keyboard has been abused enough to miss its ESC and have G and T stick. pic related

>spend $80 on a rosewill mechanical 2 years ago hoping it'll last a good while
>the usb jack has been unseating for months now
>multiple resolder attempts temporarily fix the problem but then it always comes back
This has really put me off mechanicals. I could've spent $20 on some cheap piece of junk and it'd have lasted just as long or longer.

Earlier Rosewill boards are known for having that problem. They fixed that on later generation boards.

Cooler master quick fire XT should be close to your budget. Get it with something else than browns.

paying 220 GBP for a Realforce 87u was totally worth it

mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1944
Here you go buddy.

>the usb jack has been unseating for months now

That is completely unrelated to the keyboard being mechanical, though.

I'll never buy a board using mini/micro USB for connection. I mean christ, it's bad enough these ports are unreliable on phones. What are they thinking using them for detachable keyboard cables?

How much does the double tapping difficulty matter in games? These are the two I've found

holy shit, why didn't more keyboard makers went with this design?
you get smaller keyboard with all the navigation keys, but also a numpad if you desire

way better than a standard tenkeyless in my opinion

Depends on the game. For RTS/MOBA you end up mashing keys for abilities that are on cooldown to get them to go off as soon as possible.

Guess that won't affect me since FPS and RPG Strategy are what I use the keyboard for most
I can't seem to find a keyboard lower than $73 and the rest are out of stock though. The CM store is also down

I'm not from Cred Forums, just visiting.
Do mechanical keyboards feel/work better?
Are they like the microswitches on arcade sticks vs contacts?

That's what It reminds me of.

Personally I don't use a numpad ever, so it's not necessary. I also think it''s uglier, but that's just my opinion.

Close enough.

It's fully programmable, for one.
And it's solid aluminium, for another.

you can get hipster keyboards in that design

How about lefty numpads?

youtube.com/watch?v=Fea9OxQHebU

how about we go even more hipster then that

Might end up salvaging a blackwidow to make a planck with jailhouse blues. So far I tested the oring version of that mod and it feels really hair trigger like. Almost like sensitive clears and much more silent.
Only thing holding me back from doing it is the possibility of the switches hanging and the eventual inconsistencies from switches.

Should I do it?