/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Get a evga 1060 6 gig

Ryzen 1200 + ssd or Ryzen 1600 + hdd?
Is it really worth having an ssd?

save for 1600 + ssd

yes. it's like going black, you don't go back

Would try to survive with an hdd until i upgrade to ssd then. I guess the 1600 would last me much more than a 1200

I'm not sure how I gimped my system though? It ran better than all of my buddies with new Intel chips and I still paid less.
It still has the stock cooler because I had no intentions of overclocking until now but it never got above 70ish under load. The rig still handles anything I throw at it at over 60fps most of the time on max everything except I had the cheapest Crucial ram in it I could get up till now

I guess I don't "NEED" to do anything more to it but I just want to know if I can you dig?
I did just upgrade the ram though from that 8 gig kit and I scored 24 gigs of RAM brand new ( 16 gig kit @ 1600 and an 8 gig kit at 1866) for $60. I'm hoping once I'm back home I can work on getting that all working and test the system under load

>nvidia
Need AMD; have a freesync monitor

need 2200G mobo

Can someone link me to a good video build guide for first timers? I'm looking at my parts right now and I really don't wanna fuck anything up. Also this DH 15, jesus fucking christ its so big what the hell

8600k or 8700?

its almost impossible to fuck it up man.. everything is common sense and plug and play. Dong forget thermal paste, Dont over tighten shit. If you think its to loose then its fine. Take your time and dont try to rush it

Just built this thing yesterday. Cost $1800 and so far seems to be a really well rounded build. No bottlenecking and all the performance you need for casual gaming with good fps

same. What do you anons recommend for us?

8400

>seagate

New-egg flash sales make a man do things hes not proud of.

Anyone used an all in one pc
saw the hp envy all in Windows 10 Home 64
7th Generation Intel® Core™ i7 processor
16 GB memory; 2 TB HDD storage; 256 GB SSD storage
NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 950M
(listing on hp is 1700$) the one in my local store is selling for 1300
should i get it never really built a pc before is it worth it

pcpartpicker.com/list/kGLQzY

Is there a way to go any cheaper with this without sacrificing too much?

Well considering that's not even counting the gpu (prices are fucked, thanks bitcoin fags) it's hard to say.

What benefit would there be to paying an extra 30USD for an ASRock X370 Taichi over the ASRock X370 KILLER SLI? If they're both shit, what would a good X370 board be?

i3-6100 + H110m mATX mobo + case + 600W Deepcool 80Plus bronze PSU.

What's a fair price for this used?

I just purchased a GTX 1060 SC 3GB is there any difference between the 6GB?

It was a difference of 150 dollars, and my rig isn't super great desu

200 ish i'd say

the 6GB version has 3GB more GDDR than the 3GB version

slightly lower clocks and slightly less shader cores. About a 10% perf loss in games where the 3GB of vram isn't an issue

so i just pulled the trigger on this how bad did i fuck up

dont give a toss about your IPS meme

My gamer / 3d Designer / Mining PC :

CPU : I5-6400 Oc 3.5ghz
RAM : 32gb DDR4 Oc 3200mhz
GPU1 : Rx 580 8gb
GPU2 : Rx 580 4gb
GPU3 : GTX 1070
GPU4 : GTX 1060 3gb
GPU5 : GTX 1060 3gb
GPU6 : Rx 570 8gb
HDD : 3TB HDD
PC Chase : Zalman Z3+ with a GPU 8-slot GPU frame
PSU : 2*650W Njoy Woden
Mobo : MSI B150 PC Mate

I want to upgrade the CPU because it's bottlenecks in rendering and gaming really hard but the best I can upgrade is a I7-7700K , that's good enough?

Mixing AMD and Nvidia GPUs for mining is a huge PITA. It's possible but you're likely to get reduced hashrates if it works at all.

Don't buy a 6 or 7 series Intel. You'd be throwing money away.

They work really good but Overclocking programs can sometimes fuck up the multi-Gpu build by setting all of the cards to the same overclock settings.

They mine fine everything is okey and I am getting the HashRates I wanted and I am pretty comfy with it.
Use the GTX 1070 for gaming and the Rx 580 8gb for 3d rendering...

So I should buy a new Mobo?
Which Mobo you recommend?
I7-8700K will be enough strong or I will need to go with the Threadripper for a this high-end PC?

dont fucking lie to me fag

pcpartpicker.com/list/3kqttg

i want to get the h100i but I am afraid of leaking

i would get the nh d15 but it looks ugly

what the fuck do i do.jpg

Somebody PLEASE tell me why my new rig is being fucking autistic.

I am not lying the only problem I got from mixing up amd with Nvidia is that MSI afterburner sometimes fuck up the overclock settings but nothing other.

Get 30/31 MH/s with my Rx 580s on 75W
Get 475 Sol/s (EquiHash) with my GTX 1070 on 155W
Get 275 Sol/s with my GTX 1060s on 80W
And get 29 MH/s out of my Rx 570

I think that's close what I need to get with these cards ( should mention that my GTX 1070 isn't that good in ethereum mining and that's why it's mining EquiHash instead )

What motherboard? Looks to me like you R5-1600 is utilizing all 12 threads 100%, but they're capping out at 1.5ghz because of voltage ceiling. Look at your max voltage at the top. You're peaking at 1.0v. Even a stock 1600 or 1700 hits 1.15-1.2v Some things to check so we don't have to back and forth for stupid shit
>High performance mode active on Windows?
>Latest BIOS revision on your motherboard?

Not at all.
I'm using one right now, a little adjustment and it's wonderful.

dont mean to be a bother but what specific adjustments?

MSi B350 tomahawk.
I would bet that almost any suggestion you offer, i've probably tried to do.

High performance mode on, brand new bios (probably have tried at least 3 different bios versions, including a beta but no luck)

The voltage is stuck at 1 i swear, manually setting a different clock speed or voltage doesn't change a thing.

Depending on where you live and how much tax you're required to pay for online transactions, you fucked up to the tune of $30-$80
bestbuy.com/site/dell-27-led-qhd-gsync-monitor-black/5293502.p?skuId=5293502

pic related. What you should be seeing. Does your CPU do that for every single program or bench/game? Is your version of HWmonitor the latest? How about Cinebench?

reddit.com/r/Monitors/comments/4y3pzd/best_display_settings_for_dell_s2716dg/
Yes, I know but try to ignore the site.
I tried both and used the second one listed.

i couldnt have gotten to a best buy though

Does the same thing for cinebench, prime95, the stress test in cpu-z and hell, it even reads low in task manager. Also booted up Linux Mint xfce and terminal reads cpu at a low speed. Even in games (warframe for example), nothing boosts speeds

Looking around online, it seems it's a common problem for that board? Are you within the return period? If so return it and get something different. A lot of people have had good luck with the ASrock AB350 Pro4. Or the Asus B350-F strix.

The one "fix" that some swear works is to re-flash the 1.62 BIOS AGAIN over the already flash 1.62 BIOS.

alright got that bookmarked for when it arrives

at what price range do cpu coolers beat the wraith stealth

Yea that sounds to me like a bum board. Sorry user. Return it and try something different is what I'd do.

$15+

The wraith Spire cooler (what comes with the R5-1600 and R7-1700) are good. The wraith MAX is on par with a Hyper 212 EVO. The stealth is only OK. If you're not overclocking, don't let it bother you.

Yeah apparently its pretty common? I've flash these bios numerous times and nothing comes out of it.

Would it be a board problem or a cpu problem? Board seems more likely since it never delivers more than 1 volt to the cpu

You do realize you could have ordered it straight from their website, right? You don't actually have to go into a store.
Bestbuy probably has better return policies than some unknown through Amazon, if you get a bad panel or have dead pixels.

Yea if you've exhausted all potential problems and still not having it work right, time to return the board. And yea, 99% of the time, the motherboard is at fault. It takes quite a bit to kill or corrupt a CPU from functioning properly. Short of giving it double the recommended voltage 24/7 for months on end.

Now if the problem still occurs on a new board, it would point to the CPU. Pic related is what I've put in a few people's builds already. Ranging from R3-1200 based budget gaming builds, to R7-1800X editing PCs. Haven't heard complaints from anyone yet. I personally use an ASUS X370 ROG Hero board.

what about just for the vega apu with like a 1600mhz clock?

The 2200G and 2400G are like Ryzen. They run relatively cool on their stock coolers even with a minor OC at the cost of increased noise levels. Your stealth cooler should keep the APU under 75C with ease assuming you don't have the voltage at a ridiculous level.

However if you can afford it, get a bigger/more efficient cooler. a CM Hyper 212 EVO/LED/X Turbo are $30. Big heatsink and fan means better temps/less noise.

I think at this point I have tested pretty much everything.

This is the rest of the build if it alters your mb recommendations. pcpartpicker.com/list/hX7j4q

What sort of max 24/7 overclock do 8700Ks commonly hit?

i build my pc ~4 years ago
looking to replace my ram and cpu and was wondering if it would be better to just sell my pc as is, less the hardrives and then make a new one

i5 3570k, 8gb ddr3, gtx 980, some gigabyte mobo

any advice?

Assuming you De-lid your CPU in favor of better thermal paste, you can hit 4.8ghz easily with moderate voltage. Keep in mind you'll require a decent cooler regardless. Coffee lake runs hot.

>still running an 8800GTX
Goodness user. Might be time for a GPU upgrade as well. Even a GT1030 would be a step up.

Anyhow, the rest of the build looks solid enough. Just a bum board. Keep in mind your memory may not be on the QVL list for an AM4 board because Ryzen is picky like that. You may only hit say 2933mhz out of the 3000mhz your kit is rated for.

Eh actually a free gift from a friend, I didn't have a gpu since I had a shitty i3 with integrated graphics, and this is my first real build. This memory was on the qvl for the msi board, I made sure of that.

I guess i'll send back the board and try another brand. If that doesn't work then ill probably send back the cpu in favor of a 2400g, given that I'm actually within the return period at that point.

Should I get the crosshairs VI hero or the x370f strix?

I've been building for a while and I've been burnt on MSI and Gigabyte equally. I've never had an issue with Asus or Asrock. So yea either the ASrock AB350 Pro4 or Asus B350-F Strix.

The Asus board has better audio from what I've seen on reviews.

Should I buy the nh-d15 cooler for overclocking the i7 8700k? Or should I buy some watercooler?

Not really an audiophile myself so i wouldn’t be too concerned with that. And Asrock board is cheaper, cause poorfag here. Guess that’s my new board

Currently considering upgrading to Ryzen 5 1600 from a 3570k.

Worth?

If you have the budget, the Crosshair VI. The Strix line is their budget ROG line really. Crosshair always gets the VIP treatment from Asus. BIOS updates etc.

If you REALLY have the budget, the Asus Crosshair VI Extreme. More USB ports on the I/O, a shit load of 4 pin PWM controllers, and USB 3.0 header/24 pin connectors are angled at 45 degrees for better wire runs. E-ATX though.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813119004&cm_re=crosshair_VI-_-13-119-004-_-Product

In the middle of my first build. Case fans obviosuly connect to the sys_fan slots but what about my DH15. Same thing l?

Are you doing nothing but gaming? Your best bet would simply be to OC your existing 3570K if not already.
Well put. Good luck with your new board user. Hope it all works out.
The Nh-D15 is a very good cooler. It handled my FX-9370 @ 5.1ghz. It should be able to handle a moderate clocked i7-8700k. If you're really looking to wring every last bit of performance out of your 8700k though, you'll need to de-lid and go with a water solution yes. If budget is no issue, a 360mm custom radiator loop would be ideal. Then you also have to take into consideration the heat from your VRM's though. I'd say a 5.0ghz clock on air without melting your PC is doable if your case has decent air flow. My buddy has his 8700k @ 5.6ghz under custom water using mayhem liquid metal in place of the stock TIM and is running a bare metal block.

Super super elementary question here, but I bought this board off of amazon. So is that a return to amazon? Or a return to msi?

Your cooler is oriented the wrong way. It should be facing the fan in the back of the case to properly vent the hot air. As it sits now your Cooler would be blowing hot air right onto the back of where your video card will be.

Also CPU fans should connect to the header that says "CPU_FAN or CPU_OPT". You can also get a PWM 4 pin splitter to have both fans connect to the same 4 pin connector.

>My buddy has his 8700k @ 5.6ghz under custom water using mayhem liquid metal in place of the stock TIM and is running a bare metal block.
i see

i will buy air cooling then

The DH won't fit in my case side to side. It has to go top to bottom. Won't reversing the fans send air uowards out the top of the case?

The seller. You'd only go through MSI if Amazon said you can't return it because you still have the manufacturer warranty. Shit Amazon may just let you keep the fucking thing, defective or not. My friend got shipped a GTX980 back in the day whose fan had a chipped blade. He went to return it for a good one and Amazon just told him "keep it, the new one is on the way". All a tax write off for them.

Meant for

Noctua's good shit. I have an Enermax TR4 360 and replaced the fans with Noctuas and it runs much quieter at the same super low temps.

what case do you have? If your cooler fits in that orientation, it should fit the other way. If you flip the fans, yes, the hot air will pump out the top of the case. But still then, the heat from your GPU would be getting directly pulled into your CPU heatsink.

I want to get noctua now to be honest, but it looks really ugly...

i guess

Thanks user, you've been most helpful tonight

I have a 400C and a Z370 Carbon Pro. The 2nd fan of the Noctua wont fit because it rests on top of the ram just far enough to where I can close the side of the case

Buy parts for a new build or pay my college courses?
what do

not a problem. If you can, make it a point to complain about how much time and effort this defective piece of tech has been and how you shouldn't be forced to pay for shipping. I had a Powercolor R9-290X sent to me with a bad memory module. They sent me a label to print out for free shipping to AND from Amazon.

I got these
amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade-quiet/dp/B07654PNFQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1518920238&sr=8-6&keywords=noctua chromax

Sadly they only come with 4 of each color of rubber bits, so you have to mix the back and white ones on each fan if you want a monochrome build.

Oh I guess they sell extra rubber bits: amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SAVP1-Chromax-Anti-Vibration-Mount/dp/B018SOU3UG/ref=pd_sim_147_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018SOU3UG&pd_rd_r=HQ2D4F9GH9VNJJZX2XHD&pd_rd_w=x7iDA&pd_rd_wg=yojP4&psc=1&refRID=HQ2D4F9GH9VNJJZX2XHD&dpID=31Fj3MCuimL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Will make a note of that. This is day 4 of troubleshooting and quite frankly i've just had enough.

ahh OK. That changes things. you could always orient your cooler the right way and take off the fan near the RAM. Fans have higher CFM when pulling through a radiator/shroud as opposed to pushing anyway.
pay for your college courses you fucking dingus. Then use your college education to get a great job, make just all the monies. From there you'll never have to ask "OR" about anything again. You just buy what you want when you want. Only question you'll have to ask is what color Porsche 911 GT Turbo should you get.

NOW THATS PRETTY
but now that i research i think i might get the cryorig r1 ultimate

College courses, to get a good degree, to get a good job, to make a lot of money, to pour all of your income into the your build

if i power you on, will you fly ?

Trying to figure out all these fucking connections between the board and the case. The board sys_fan connectors are 4 pin but the actual case fans are 3 pin. Do they plug into those and just not use all the pins? I assume HDaudio plugs into Jaudio? And finally is sys_pump for my cpu cooler? No other slots named for anything I would think of to plug in as

When will GPU prices go down???

sick of sitting on a 1050 gtx

3 pins fit 4 pins, there's a little cutaway so they go in the right way.

sometime between an eternity from now and never

What is this goo coming from the bottom of the standoff?

...

The computer is all set up. All the hookups are live. It's booted, got the OS, got the MOBO and GPU disks installed. It was running fantastic.
Now it won't boot; won't even go through BIOS. And when it does it runs at the slowest speeds possible.

What does this monster need to function right again?

What the fuck am I looking at

Did... did you thermalpaste the heatsink bracket to the motherboard?

Oh wait user, before I go spend another $75, the asrock b350 pro4 is fine for overclocking, correct?

>wants to build first gaming pc
>sees gpu prices

New Ryzen chips are using Gold and Indium solder, not that shitty TIM stuff Intel uses.

I'm about to put together a custom water loop, is there anything I have to worry about with only copper plates and a silver coil in the reservoir?

>Did... did you thermalpaste the heatsink bracket to the motherboard?

As I was screwing the CPU cooler in, I noticed that some gray goo was coming from the bottom of this standoff.

Gonna order this next week. Anything wrong?

Machine is for CAD, 3D, lite gaming, software dev. Prices in AUD ($2200 = $1700).

P-please respond.

Does that 'quality' thermal paste actually do anything? Or will any $5 package be fine

>memory is the most expensive component

Why shouldn't it be?

>$500 RAM
>$400 8-core processor
>then gets a GTX 1060

Try touching it with a flathead screwdriver to see if it is indeed goo. If you can't, just take it off and check.

I've noticed legligable (2c tops) differences between the cheap $2 per tube stuff with spelling errors on it, and arctic silver. That being said if you think $5 per tube is cheap that's how much AS costs.

So, i have a pretty old value PC, which hit it's limits already, so it's time to upgrade.
I'll use my peripherals, Monitor and a GTX970 along with pcpartpicker.com/list/bhCH9J
>i wanna go for meme aestethics once in my life

apart from obvious suggestions (noctua), anything i should definitively change?
>going for AMD again, because i compile shit and WoW is shit in regards to performance anyways
>i don't bother with most new AAA titles

Get a Ryzen 2400G. As a common reference point that anyone can understand, it's able to run Crysis at over 60fps.

I'm not that interested in gaming. Like I said, the machine is for cad and software dev, and some light gaming.

What application would benefit from an expensive GPU?

There's a post on kijiji of this build: ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/qfWzKB

which I can buy for 300 CAN less than the total price on pcpartpicker.
Should I go for it anons? Money isn't an issue but I wouldn't mind going for a deal

Pretty sure there are cheaper high clocked memory kits out there. Also, you don't need a $140 aio for ryzen, not even close. I have a regular $30 air cooler and my 1600x hits 55c under 100% load in a case with not too great airflow.

My gf has one, it's really nice.

>max out settings in crysis
>63 fps at the entry point 3rd mission

i have a scythe katana 2 rn, whoch does it's job and is possible to be mounted on a ryzen.
I'm still on DDR3 rn, so i'm out of the game for some time now. Do you have some suggestion, or should i just go for the cheapest?

Avoid the Pro4 user there's a bad batch I assume that freezes people's systems, go for the B350-F

I started scraping it off with a knife and got this lump

W10 boots pretty fast on a hdd, so I'd go with the 1600. Just make sure that you get a good motherboard as a good upgrade platform in the future.

I'd go for the Crosshair VI or the AX370 K7

RIP

Some sort of nonskid / anti-vibration / nonconductive padding?

Just how tight are you screwing this thing?

>R3 2200G - Budget builds (best with OC + fast RAM) or for holding out until GPU prices drop

This is what I'm doing. Blog time. Yesterday I ordered all the components for a new ITX rig except mainboard because of the BIOS issues. Now just waiting for components to arrive and for "ryzen 2000 desktop ready" mainboards, probably will get the asrock b350 one. I was about to order that when I got a weird tingling because I'm in the "never be an early adopter" camp. So glad I didn't order one of the un-ready mainboards. Sorry for people who did / do that only to then spend hours fixing that shit with the help of AMD support (sending you a Ryzen 1 CPU, this requires a credit card and may not be possible everywhere) or a hardware store. Basically, unless you work minimum wage your time spent on fixing what should have worked all along negates ANY price savings you theoretically make when buying these APUs right now. The best solution is literally just send the mainboard back and waiting like me (except I saved myself that first step with extra research). Leave it to tech companies to go the extra mile to make being their customer a never-ending nightmare. Any other industry tries to get the day 1 experience right because those are the most profitable sales. Not anything related to tech, be it hardware or software, you just know the day 1 experience will consist of googling and facepalming. The only way to save yourself most of this googling and facepalming after a purchase is to delay the purchase and instead get a lesser amount of googling and facepalming out of the way before purchasing anything.

>any year after 2013 or so
>buying a GPU

I would go for a AX370 Gaming K5 (K7 if you can afford it), the Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass, if you're not a fan of Noctua's color scheme you might want a R1 Universal and this CL14 kit
pcpartpicker.com/product/jpH48d/gskill-memory-f43200c14d16gvk

If a stock 2400G does this then an OC'd 2200G also does it, at less than 2/3s of the price. And the 2400G itself doesn't overclock well. The 2200G is the real performance/price king.

I would go with a better motherboard for the 1700, maybe the B350-F Rog Strix or the AX370 Gaming K5 if you can afford it. Check the Focus Gold Plus 650, it should be cheaper than the Corsair one

I'm probably not the best person to ask, but there is a fairly popular 3200 kit from corsair on amazon for 220. Another 3000 kit for 200 as well. No first hand experience, as I went with a cheaper 8 gb kit.

And get a WD Black 2tb, they're more reliable

I've used laptops my whole adult life and am getting started with selecting parts for a PC now. My priorities are programming, multitasking, moderate gaming and video editing in that order, with a budget of $1000 CAD and 1080p 60hz monitor. The market for GPUs is absolute shit right now so I'm debating a couple options:
>high end intel w/ integrated graphics
>Ryzen 5 2200G/2400G w/ integrated graphics
> Ryzen 5 1600 / medium end intel with a $50-$150 GPU
What other options do I have and what are the tradeoffs with the ones I've listed? Any recommendations?

PSU is overproportioned. You said light gaming so you're not going to SLI on this machine. PCP tells you the ballpark of wattage you can expect.

Running a PSU closer to full capacity is going to make it noisy.

>unless you work minimum wage your time spent on fixing what should have worked all along negates ANY price savings you theoretically make when buying these APUs right now
How? They'll send it for FREE

personally i would do the 1600+hdd if i my budget was not flexible at all. more CPU and storage is better than APoooU and minimal storage.

SSD is superior for OS and programs in terms of start up time but if you run an "always on" setup where you dont frequently boot or launch and relaunch apps, or you want to install and casual a large selection of games or media and dont mind slower install/load times then an HDD might not bother you as much.

for example: youtube.com/watch?v=9dEsTiOeMQ4
the HDD takes longer to load but you just might be the type of person who doesnt mind that.

BTW what are you even building your machine for (would help to know)?

2400G all the way.

It will be sufficient enough for when gpu prices fall and opens the path for high end future ryzen cpus. Leaves extra room in your initial budget to invest in higher end components such as motherboard/psu/case.

thanks, anons.

>paying for worthless graphics

You probably do at least half an hour of reading or youtube watching before you're sure that there's really no easier way. Then you deal with support for x minutes. Then you wait days for that shit to arrive in the mail. If you're not home when they bring it (what are the odds that you will be home in the morning or early afternoon?) you have to make extra trip to retrieve it. Then you spend maybe an hour doing the thing and making sure it worked. Then you have to mail that shit back.

That's several hours of unpaid, mind-numbing busy-work, my friend. If I'm doing something unpleasant in my free-time then that's a loss, whether you want to measure it in money or not.

650W is recommended for all non sli builds since you wont ever have upgrade it to accomodate beefier upgrades.

One thing I mentioned is that I don't have an older CPU to update a motherboard BIOS with. I've heard that the newer ryzens won't run on some mobos until the BIOS is updated and going through the loaner-CPU process with AMD is a hassle. Are there any current lower end mobos that still work with these chips off the bat or should I go for an intel instead?

How should I set my fan curve? Currently at load my U12S is silent but my 1600 stays at 75-78°, should I adjust it?

Apparently AMD is selling bios flashing kits, and if you buy the mobo in a store, some of them should have a sticker that verifies they work with the APUs. If all else fails, you can have a store update the bios for you.

Is it being too loud but staying nice and quiet right now? Lower the part of the curve you're at?

Is it quiet but hot? Turn up wherever you are on the curve.

Then make sure you haven't created something idiotic like a curve that isn't monotonically increasing.

That's pretty much it.

Leaks don't happen in real life and if they do you get your computer's worth as a refund.

Do you want pretty but louder and less cooling? Get the h110i.

Do you want better cooling and less noise, but sacrifice looks? Nh-d15.

>8700K
>8GB of memory
What the fuck are you doing with your life
Also, D15 and chromax swap fans

If he don't need more than 8 GB right now, he should stick to 8 GB for now. RAM is fucking expensive and he can upgrade it later.

Buying 2 8GB sticks separately is more expensive than buying them together so he is effectively paying more for less compatibility.

Where are you finding 2x 8 GB sticks for significantly less than twice the price of one 8 GB stick?

I'm saying that DDR5 will be out by the time he could save money on DDR4 by buying later

ight then fagoos just 4 more years until I can finally pay for my hobbies

If DDR5 is out, DDR4 will be a bit cheaper. He might even be able to find cheap used DDR4 on ebay as people upgrade and sell off their parts.

Sure buddy

Now show them how the GT 1030 kicks its ass.

I think the Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass will have more airflow for less money (and it looks better in my opinion)

Friend is willing to sell me his R9 270 for $20 (AUD), and his description is this
>doesn't function properly, fans spin, only used for gaming, mined with. it display some random shit when turned on.
We're both busy throughout the week, so I'm not able to pop around his place to check the problem it's having.
Would it be worth buying?
I've currently got an R9 270X, and was considering putting them in Crossfire, if that makes a difference.

Only in antiquated DX11 NoVidyalet

youtube.com/watch?v=siOCaRkmvHs

>around 1k ameribux
>playing older games as well as newer pc exclusives, photoshop

This probably belongs in /sqt/, but am building a new computer soon and found a decent looking used case.
I found someone on kijiji selling a Phanteks Enthoo Primo for $50 leaf bux. Would it be worth buying it? I plan on asking about the motherboard standoffs and other such accessories, but if it's sold for only $50, that concerns me a little on its' condition, what with it being a $300-350 case.

you can run your D15 without the second fan
the difference is a couple degrees and might be a bit louder but thats it

I'd go with this but swap the MX330 for a S340 if possible
pcpartpicker.com/list/g3y6MZ

So if you cherrypick results it *somewhat* beats a GT 1030. If you look at all results it's around a GT 1030.

You're still talking about barely beating the lowest of low end cards that is not considered suitable for anything beyond video watching and the lightest of gaming.

Or swap for Ryzen 2400G if you want to save dollarydoos for a good IPS monitor.

Thanx pham, what resolution/fps should I be expecting here

Thanks m8s. So this is where I'm at now.

I don't think the performance increase from using a black drive is worth that money, especially since you can get 6-8tb drives for that price if you really need the storage.

Are there even any games worth building a powerful PC for these days?

>playing games
benchmarks only

can you make a spectre proof build

Nope.

AMD's Navi is still a while off. As the other user said, get a 480.

The 1050 ti may bottleneck the 1600 but you can save up for a better one down the line
youtube.com/watch?v=JwdlkrNjybg
youtube.com/watch?v=6_spuDIs9Fo

>GPU at MSRP
My build is totally under budget
>GPU at actual sale price
Over budget

Fuck.

Is Thermal Grizzly really worth nearly twice the premium of other brands? I'm doing some contemplation before I buy one for my Cryorig H7 + Ryzen 1600 build

>G4560

Some of their stuff is aimed at LN2 overclocking or TIM replacement. The H7 comes with its own TIM and it should do you fine.

Well, the H7 is from a previous build. I've had it for awhile. I needed a new paste to reapply it for when my 1600 comes

Don't worry about liquid cooling CPU, just not worth it, really doesn't change much and bigger risk, Noctua is better for cooling, reliability, price, noise.

Also, 1060 3gb

How long until Nvidia finally releases Volta? I don't want to go in on a 10 series if they drop the 11 series a few months later, but I need to upgrade from a fucking 760 at some point.

I would go for Arctic Silver 5, Noctua NT-H1, Innovation Cooling Diamond, or something else that isn't so expensive/niche. Generally all of them will perform the same, and especially on lower-end coolers.

its not volta
and april

Thanks for the insight. I'm planning on a gaming and light modeling pc, with some lasting parts and paths for upgrades on ram, cpu, etc. But as i said earlier i'll get the 1600 and hdd then later the ssd

why not windows 10 Cred Forums

>and april
maybe

Less cores but only a few less -- it's pretty insignificant unless you hit that 3 GB limit. Still I'd say the extra 3 GB is worth it.

Try one of the 50 linux threads

You fucked up. I bought this today at Best Buy for $400. Amazing monitor. I'll never go back to 1080p

How about the MX-4?

did you see MX-4 on my list?
stop being a fucking retard

Bumping out of desperation

Is it normal for a Ryzen to be clocked at max frequency during idle?

in high performance mode yes
you can download a AMD ryzen balanced setting though that will lower the clocks at idle

>sick of my fan turning into a lawnmower when trying to play animu on FX 8320
>get an r5 1600
>"let's take this baby for a spin"
>still gets hot af
Who do I blame for this? AMD? Myself? The bald mongol?

Maybe your cooler is shite. Or maybe it's your GPU causing all the racket. Both of those CPUs should be able to play video without too much effort.

>check i7 prices for 1150
>still costs over 400 bucks
This is unacceptable.

>he's THAT poor
This is unacceptable.

Hi, is GIGABYTE "GA-AB350M-D3H" a good budget board? I've already bought two msi b350 pc mates that turned out to be broken, gonna try my luck with gigabyte.

...

>so dumb he fucked up thermal paste
(you) are to blame, probably used the stock thermal paste pre applied

>paying with your parents' money
This is unacceptable.

sounds like a you problem
I got up to 50C during heavy gaming with the stock cooler

t. orphan

That r5 1600 has a soldered IHS, and 1st-gen Ryzen runs very efficiently and cool anyway. Even _really_ bungling the paste job would only go so far in causing high temp.

pcpartpicker.com/list/KBp7YT
>America, Hawaii so shipping can be a nig
>Play Vanilla Warcraft, CS:GO
>dual monitor 2x 1440p
>general shitposting machine

How did I do?

You're using mpv? don't use max quality settings, use the one below that. I had the same problem, now temps are always below 65C unlike before, once it reached 88C too I was wondering when would smoke start to come out.

t. manchild

if you are buying a discreet GPU then buy a different cpu
either the 1500x or 1600
I don't know how that gpu would perform at 1440p

>GTX 1050 Ti
>Vanilla Warcraft, CS:GO
Fucking way overkill, even at 1440p I would guess. You could probably accomplish that with an iGPU. Also, your PSU is a bit trash. Way overpriced for too low wattage to be comfortable going forward.
If you're getting a dGPU anyway though, why are you buying a 2400g (especially at that price)? Just grab a 1600 or something.

have i5-4590. the 8400 looks nice but is 4590 irrelevant?

I just want stability in performance, like being able to fucken alt tab and not have my computer freeze and frame rate drop

I am a pleb at this so first time, Maybe my research wasn't done correctly but wouldn't the apu and the gpu work together in processing power?

and will change psu

>tfw too pussy to delid my 8700k

Not sure if it's worth the hassle when I get decent temps while gaming at 5ghz

Current build:
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/j2wLr6
Mainly looking for suggestions at this point.

The upgrades I've considered are
>video card
Not happening new anytime soon it seems, so am looking at used 980's and such.
>power supply
Something preferably modular, ~600W+ Gold, since it doesn't make a lot of sense to me getting a 500W Gold modular, since would be at a similar wattage.
>cpu
Getting either a Ryzen 2600/2700 when they come out.
>more storage
Primarily a larger HDD, since I'm running close to my 1TB internal limit, and have 2 other 1TB external drives that are also near-full, so am considering getting a few larger drives so I can consolidate a lot of my data.
I'd consider an SSD, but honestly, my system has never felt "slow" or "unresponsive", and the only thing that I feel would warrant an SSD is a game like GTA5 where it takes a while to load, anyway, but it feels dumb to get an SSD for a single thing.

Is there anything else I might be missing?
Also, would it be worth the risk getting a $100 (AUD) R9 290 off someone I personally know? I'm aware of the cryptocurrency stuff, so I feel like they're offloading a fucked card, but I know they recently bought a GTX1080, so again, would it be worth risking that?

no the gpu and igpu wont work together in any meaningful way
if you had them somehow work using asynchronous compute the gains from an igpu would likely be less than if you bough a better cpu

Word, thank you mate. Then in that regard I should go 1600 and perhaps budget more money for a vidya card? The markets really fucked right now so I don't really know what to do.

yeah if possible get a 1060 6gb
or you can wait

Do I really need more than 8GB RAM if I'm not rendering videos or anything like that?

wait for what
miners to buy the next batch of cards before they hit the shelves? better off scavenging through the secondhand market atm

some games eat up RAM
chrome eats up a lot of RAM
W10 eats up a lot of RAM

Linus just made a video on it
its recommended to have 16GB but its not must have

why does anyone listen to linus?

Well it seemed like he does decent testing on some things such as RAM usage
if you have a better source testing similar things feel free to share it

it depends

If I'm building a PC is it worth buying a cheap bitch card from a few years ago to use until normal gpu prices drop?

while i can appreciate the joke fuck you

what cheap bitch card specifically?

I don't really know, something from 2014ish probably.

>tfw you are still actively using a Radeon HD 5770 1GB card
I'm pretty sure the new Ryzen's on board might actually be more powerful.

The cheapest I've seen a brand new 1060 in ages.

I think I'm about to pull the trigger

>i dont know what to upgrade
just get an ssd for your os. in your case it's the single upgrade that will make difference in daily use.
you don't need to upgrade your psu. high-end psus are nice for sure, but 500w from reputable brand like evga is enough for pretty much 99% of gayming builds.

>3gb
>single fan
>still over 250€
jesus christ i'd rather buy a console

Are RAM prices slowly recovering? I haven't been exactly keeping track, but it seems a little bit cheaper than when I last checked.

>Are RAM prices slowly recovering?
no and don't expect it until at least 2019

What happened to RAM anyway? Is it crypto too?

Official story is high demand on phones. Reality is shady price fixing deals in Taiwan.

say I'm upgrading from a 2500k, how much more powerful would the 8400 be?

Air or liquid cooling? Sounds like an overheating CPU

de.pcpartpicker.com/list/DdL8TB

> ~1000€ budget
> GPU & SSD are present in current build and will be transferred to the new one
> Purpose: gaming and work stuff that is too heavy for my laptop (parallel numerical computing stuff)

Any suggestions or does that look ok?

Any suggestions

The 2400G is not powerful enough to drive "a good IPS". It can barely do 1080p in -some- games. In most it can't unless you're a slideshow console cuck.

The 2000 APUs are only viable for people like me, willing to drop all image quality settings to low and run games at 900p or worse. That way you can get playable framerates (playable means above 60).

No.

>nobody should be poor

fucking commie get out, reeee.

There were GPUs as powerful as today's midrange back then, and there were GPUs that you can't use for 1080p. The year literally means nothing at all.

you don't need a full tower case unless you have shitloads of hdds (they are huge).
if you're mostly gaming you could drop your cpu to 8400/stock cooler/cheapest z170 and get gtx 1070 instead.
otherwise your build is also fine.

disable amd c&q

Which PSU to get for the RX560

>It can barely do 1080p in -some- games.
ryzen APUs do really well in a lot of games even at 1080p high settings just not in "AAA" games but even there you can just lower settings to low and get playable framerates

For reference, I can run my R9 290 on a 500W bronze PSU with an i7 4771 and a shit ton of hard drives as well as overkill fans in my case.

>500W bronze PSU
that's plenty for an rx560

I'm not him, I was saying that's my current build, and am running fine with a 500W
Sorry, should've said so.

the main titles AMD themselves cite as 1080p playable all run at below 60 fps. among those titles is Overwatch, and none of them used high settings. maybe you're talking about OCing. that might make more titles playable at 1080p on the 2400G.

honestly 450w/500w bronze should be the -minimum- psu for any gayming builds. anything less than that is apu-only/htpc/office pc territory.

stock 2200g can play overwatch on 1080p high settings at 60fps average

holy fuck are you me

On Cred Forums I heard nvidea is releasing the next lineup Q4 2018/ Q1 2019.

Can anyone recommend a two chamber case like the inwin 509 without an glass or acrylic window?

Didn't found anything so far myself, but maybe someone else has seen something like this already.

Inb4 build yourself: Wouldn't mind, but I can't get onto my tools for the next two months approximately..

then why would AMD themselves release a chart saying the 2400G stock CAN'T on MEDIUM? you're just making shit up, man.

>>G4560

>on Cred Forums
lmao. on 90% it's going to be announced during GTC 2018 in march. the first cards - 2080, 2070 will be released in april, followed by 2060 in may/june.

youtube.com/watch?v=a1hPqKRMoBY

what should i change and where can i get lightly used gpus close to msrp

>overwatch 49
>battlefield one 52
This chart is shit regardless of who released it.

I was planning to upgrade in march but i quess ill wait a bit.

imo buying pascal, which is not only overpriced but also 1.5 years old at this point, is just retarded.
new gen is already in production.

Drop the shitty Mainboard.
Spare some bucks with a less meme aio cooler.
No where.

How old are the current CPUs? when will new ones come out?

>3.5 GHz @ 1.439 V
What are you doing? Turn off the auto voltage.

before opening that video let me predict that res scaling is used so it's not actually 1080p. now let's watch the video.

okay, having skipped through the video, the guy never shows the settings and I guarantee you he's using render scale and omitting that fact. I'm not going to pixel count a compressed youtube video. just look at other overwatch videos. people are getting barely 60 fps even with the 2400G. the only other explanation would be that that particular map in OW just performs way better than the rest of the game.

so you're saying AMD themselves released underwhelming benchmarks of their own hardware? get real. these APUs are a big step up and they approach viability for the average gamer. approach. they're not quite there yet and legit benchmarks reflect this. I'm building a 2200G rig for fun and according to believable benchmarks I will be able to match stock 2400G performance with a reasonable OC, so if anyone should wish for the hyped performance results it would be me. shit's not real, the outstanding results are cherry picked via unusually good locations/maps and lies by omission about certain settings.

Flipfag here, All I've got is an Athlon II X3 435 and a 1280x1024 75hz monitor.

Should I go for a GT 1030 or GTX 1050 for light gaming?

ryzen budget APUs just came out.
ryzen+ (a minor improvement to ryzen) in comes out in ~2 months.
next intel gen, ice lake is ??? (probs 2018/2019).

Get the 1050, for sure.

Would it be a good idea to go for the new Ryzen APUs when they come out here?

>see people from USA
>1k USD can build you an entire good system with R5 1600, 16 GB 3200, 1050 Ti, 500 GB SSD
>1k of local currency can't even buy the cpu
Why do I even live?

for that res the 1030 would be enough.

1050 would last him longer and provide higher FPS. That's my recommendation, though a 1030 would work too. IMHO I'd pay the extra to have something longer lasting with higher frames and graphic settings.

Will a 1050 play the latest games at 1080p/60Hz on low or medium graphics? my graphics card stopped working and I cant really afford anything better till the end of the year.

>Indium

last him longer? his CPU is beyond outdated. in any recent game he's going to be CPU-bottlenecked any way.

depends on the games. for source engine, LoL, rocket league et. gt1030 is enough.
most people who haven't upgraded by now (seeing as he still has a Athlon II) don't play games that would require gtx1050.

Firendly reminder that getting Ryzen APU is absolute best deal right now and getting old overheating Inlel processor with motherboards that last half year is plain retarded.

also how does one update a bios on the old ryzen mb while having only new APU ?
i realized that when i was picking parts (didn't order them tho)

Are there any noticeable cons to using an active VGA adapter for modern gfx cards?

this is probably a retarded question, but can you use an nvidea card with an amd cpu?

>You're still talking about barely beating the lowest of low end cards that are overpriced as fuck and won't be used for anything beyond video watching and the lightest of gaming.
also you can throw a GPU to this apu later and still have 4c8t

factorio

KC:D

>also how does one update a bios on the old ryzen mb while having only new APU ?

that's where AMD fucked up. you either order a Ryzen 1 from AMD temporarily (requires credit card and patience) to fix your mainboard's bios yourself, or you take it to a hardware store where they hopefully have used Ryzen 1s lying around and will do the work for you (costs money). basically, just wait for compatible ("ryzen 2000 desktop ready") mainboards. the only news available on that is that they supposedly left Asia by ship mid-January and will take "several weeks" to reach Europe. I assume it's the same for NA, no idea though. they should come out soon™.

>defeating the purpose of getting an APU in the first place

Yes it is a retarded question, and yes you can

>will do the work for you (costs money)
Not necessarily, some PC shops will do it for free.

Britbong here.
Looking spend around 3k on new pc + monitor, need everything really except an optical drive and mouse (also have 250gb ssd and 1tb hdd).

I know its a bad time to buy parts etc, but is this sort of deal the best bang for my buck?
pic related

yes you can. it's not that stupid a question since there compatibility issues are the norm in the hardware world. but as of right now GPUs all work with PCI express so any GPU fits on any mainboard from within the last decade+. when buying a GPU the only consideration is performance/price and your budget. and performance/price is in the toilet for all GPUs so you shouldn't buy a GPU this year unless you have to. if you do buy a cheap one to minimize your loss.

CPUs are a different story, you need to check compatability with the mainboard before you buy a CPU. with Intel you almost always have to buy a new mainboard for a new CPU. with AMD the situation is slightly better but with lots of headaches involved usually, so basically always expect to be using a mainboard only for your current CPU. when it comes to hardware "future proof" is a marketing meme.

what the fuck you mongrel ? the point of getting ANY piece of hardware is getting as much FPS as possible for as low proce as possible
2200 and 2400 have best value so far and the option to throw additional GPU is even better
deal with is

maybe if you're a customer there already. I can't imagine a PC shop taking a random new customer's mainboard and flashing its bios for free where I live.

buying a dedicated GPU to use with an APU would be stupid. or rather, buying an APU when you intend to then replace its iGPU with a dedicated one is stupid. you're paying for that iGPU. if you're gonna replace it don't buy it.

>550£ TN screen
>185£ case
>850W PSU
>paying for windows
>gaymen headset
>buying 32GB of RAM at the current prices

Again, not really. I know plenty of PC shops in my town that will sell you the motherboard already updated free of charge. Some even sell prebuilts updated

Ive been asked to build a editing machine for 4k video. They use Premier Pro. My budget is $1800. They already have a large storage server, the ssd is purely as an export drive. What do you think?

>buying a dedicated GPU to use with an APU would be stupid unless of course prices of GPU are ridiculous and you wanna do some work/light games
there fixed that for ya

I live in a dorm with 3 other dudes. We all have devices (5 phones, 3 laptops, 2 desktops), so we were all thinking about chipping in for a sort of home server and consolidating all our storage, with permissions set so only guy1 can access guy1's data, etc.
What's a general idea in doing so? How good of a CPU should it be? How much RAM? Should it have it's own SSD? Is it worth getting even a low-level GPU, or would it be better to save a bit and stick to IGP?
I've personally got 3x1TB, and a 750GB drive, not sure what my roommates have, but probably a fair amount of storage, so that's sorted.
Also, if I were to consolidate all the drives into one system, would it be better to get some cheap HDD, or just go for SSD? I was thinking something like a 25-500GB SSD, but not sure if that's even worth it.

How is is stupid if you can't afford the GPU right away
>you're paying for that iGPU
It costs the same as their non APU counterparts

You faggots who got an APU what game are you playing now and at what settings+FPS?

faggot

A 2200G should do just fine
A small home server isn't really that hardware hungry

that would make you their customer. of course they'll update the bios for you in that case. I was listing the options of someone who orders the components online and then discovers that the mainboard won't work.

...you can order already updated bundles from them online

So get some small SSD for a low-resource OS?
8GB RAM should be fine, too?
We've agreed on an mITX build, since the main space we've got is in my room, and I'll be getting an mITX setup soon, and it'll be just about the same size as one regular case.

from whom? unfortunately I've already ordered my 2200G, but I guess I could go to a physical store to order a mainboard + current BIOS.

>flashing its bios for free where I live
i think that people from venezuela have other problems than their mb's bios...
>that's where AMD fucked up
yeah they should just lock compatibility like Inlel does

>yeah they should just lock compatibility like Inlel does

no, they should have coordinated the release with mainboard companies so there are boards available the day the APUs hit the market and nobody has to flash a thing.

no i still think that new mb/year is better
you don't risk that you will brick your MB
based inlel amd btfo

articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-707457285-combo-actualizacion-amd-ryzen-5-2400g-radeon-vega-msi-b350m-_JM
I'm from Argentina so I'm not sure where you could do it. The 2200g is not listed in a combo but surely they sell it too

I'm afraid importing ryzen from aryangentina to germanistan for that free bios fix wouldn't be a sound economic choice. just curious though, what's the price for the APUs in argentina if you convert to USD? I always hear brazilians complaining about their horrible hardware prices so I'm wondering if you're in the same boat.

seems like every amd b350 mobo is a total fucking joke. first there's asrock with reviews on amazon saying that it freezes randomly few months of usage, now there's people saying that msi bioses are terrible (not to mention long boot times).
reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/7yelkg/i_would_like_to_warn_everyone_not_to_buy_an_msi/
i hope b450 won't be so fucking bad

The 2200g costs the same as a 1400 ($220) and the 2400g the same as the 1600 ($320), prices are fucked in South America. Good luck user

>tfw you accidentally typed in the wrong activation key and now Windows constantly tries to activate that key with apparently no way to stop it

No, I was literally just saying that this chart in particular is shit/flawed in at least one direction by looking at these two numbers.
I don't care for who released, as we've seen that both Intel and AMD had absolute idiots in their marketing department before.
I just want another benchmark that A provides a bit more info and B actually adds up.

Get your meme brands out of there and upgrade your cpu with the extra bucks.

Then avoid those brands, the B350-F Rog Strix has the best VRMs on a B350 board if I remember correctly

asus is shit though

>I just want another benchmark that A provides a bit more info and B actually adds up

there are plenty of people showing their 2400G overwatch performance on youtube. they all get almost 60 fps at 1080p, with varying RAM and ingame settings. I have yet to see one get consistent above 60 fps like this guy supposedly is getting, and with high settings no less. he's the odd one out.

1709 caused more problems than it fixed

I have had no issues with my MSI B350 gaming pro carbon
according to W10 my last bios time was 15 seconds
I have also had it for 5 months with no freezing

I also haven't tried to overclock though

quick question, i intend to upgrade my 3yo pc to something suitable for heavy cpu games like arma, squad and most recently kingdom come
what i currently have is an i5 4460, 8GB 1600Mhz and GTX970
i think my GPU can serve me another one or two years, so which CPU/RAM should i go for? budget is unimportant

Haven't built a PC in a while. I'm looking to build one for my brother birthday though.
He has 2x 1080p monitors, what should I get and how much should I spend?

Then get a B350 Gaming 3 or save up for a AX370 K5

>gigabyte
lmao their mobos are even worse. gaming 3 has the worst vrms iirc.
am4 mobos were rushed and all of them are shit.

I have an Asus one and I've had no issues with it. I haven't tried overclocking or anything, but it's been completely fine. I was dubious when it arrived and the box was springing open, and I didn't notice until I was installing it that there's a fucking chip out of the corner like a shard, but it still works fine. If I hadn't been in such a hurry to build it I would have gotten it replaced of course.

>haven't tried the most important feature
>'i had no issues'
lmao that's like saying i have mobo but haven't put in the cpu in yet (no issues so far tho)

pretty sure booting and letting the cpu work is the most important feature

most of the problems seem to be related with OCing though.

I would go for this, if you don't care for overclocking get the 1700x or the 1800x
pcpartpicker.com/list/qpkg4C

will this bottleneck? i'm planning on building this tomorrow if i clear this up.

ryzen 3 1200
gtx 1060 3gb
Gigabyte b350
8GB ram
1TB Hdd
450 watts psu

pls halp

no
i wouldnt get gigabyte mobo tho.

thanks user. Well what can you recommend for a better mobo?

msi pc mate

This. Pc mate or tomahawk should work fine, for better VRMs maybe the B350-F Rog Strix but I have no personal experience with ASUS mobos

he's getting r3 1200 so better VRMs arent a priority

Hello friends Cred Forums. I want a 1080p IPS monitor that can rotate for vertical viewing to do artsy fartsy shit but will not ghost for the virgin manchild games. What do you recommend?
I understand two monitors would be better but do not have the space.

VESA mount?