Any electrician fag in here?

Non connected circuits are dependent on your 'region'. See your panel but a safe bet is to use a kitchen outlet if you have one.

Oh good. An engineer is here on his white stallion. Doesn't say what kind of engineer he is, just doles out advise that you should listen to because 'I'm an engineer' means he already knows more than you

Interesting case. I'd say you've got a rare form of homosexuality

1) Your PSU has a short.
Probably. But was one when I came to home the first event.

2) Your Iin is to high, not llikely with 700W.
You mean consumption? No, I checked out and is nearly 50% load in gaming.
This is my setup:
pcpartpicker.com/list/4nYw7T

3) Faulty breaker.
Wel THAT’S my real concern... if this is a “sensible building breaker” I’m just wasting my money and my setup is ok... I can check my apartment breaker, but no the building one.

I like alone in my apartment.
The building has a panel with dedicated extra circuit breaker for each apartment.
I disconnected everything but the computer and then issue persists.
This never happened before in 1.5 years..

But was working *

IDK what to tell you. A short in a PSU, at least the new ones usual just blows a fuse. I find it hard to believe that your PSU is un-fused at entry.

A new 25Amp breaker can be replaced by any joe blow and they are very cheap. De-energize the main and throw it in, its like lego.

Need more details, do what I asked. Plug the psu or computer into an unused outlet. Kitchens are usually their own circuit unless you live in a shit shack.

>Please note that in the first event, the PSU was on and the motherboard was in standby mode (it has a light), so a short circuit is not likely a reason for this to happen.

Another engineer here. EE, and I don't have a horse, for the triggered fag who apparently doesn't like engineers.

While you may not have a short on the front side of the supply (wall Vac to HV DC inside the supply before the transformer), you could have a short in its secondary or on the motherboard. If the circuit is that weak in your abode, then you _could_ be popping it as the supply tries to satisfy the load it sees.

Try running the supply with the MB disconnected. You can even signal the supply to turn on w/o the MB by connecting the 'power on' wire (single wire, possibly green... at least is is on one of my supplies here) to a ground/black wire on the ATX connector. If you can get it to come on this way, start looking closely at the MB.

25A breaker for a householf wall circuit is not code, at least in the USA. Presuming an NEMA5-15 or NEMA5-20 outlet. Or is this the main into a subpanel feeding your area?

Several years ago with the same PSU I had something happening with the same mobo. It looked like a short circuit with spark and all. But after that event, nothing never happened again. I saw the PSU trickery. But idk if it worths the try, since I need everything connected to check if the initial power draw still causing the thing.

This is my apartment circuit

Attached: image.jpg (3264x2448, 1.78M)

And this was on another apartment with a very shitty electrical arrangement

Non-USA? Not 120Vac wall voltage?

Breaker appears to be GFI. Could be a small leak to ground triggering GFI. I had some Behringer S16 heads that would trigger GFIs out of the box due to the RFI filtering circuit in them. An imbalance in that filter on your supply could trigger that.

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>But idk if it worths the try, since I need everything connected to check if the initial power draw still causing the thing.
If it doesn't do it w/o the MB, then the MB is likely bad. The inrush (filling the caps) should be limited by the supply, thus only a bad MB should cause a trip.

This.

Sure it does. The PSU is just there to convert 120v into 5v and 12v. If it's a good one it will even have multiple rails to do that. You could have an entire unused rail that is completely fried and shorted out with nothing connected to it.

Even if you do have things connected to it, I have seen countless PSUs die from any number of things up to and including a bolt of lightning and not damage any components attached to them. Just because the PSU is fucked doesn't mean it surged through the components inside it down to a board or a hard drive.

You don't turn off the main to change a breaker.
Also, turning off the main breaker does not turn off power to the hot rail. If you cut power with the main breaker, the hot rail remains hot and you will still get fucking electrocuted if you touch it.

Yeah I agree.
Things break. Cheap components plus heat over time kills everything. Not to mention spikes in the AC line. Likely it is a bad capacitor.

>Also, turning off the main breaker does not turn off power to the hot rail.
If the main breaker doesn't turn off power to the hot rail, then it's not a main breaker.

The key point for not naturally selecting oneself is to realize that to kill power to the wires feeding the main breaker, one must go upstream to the next source feeding it.

You're fucking retarded and you don't know what the fuck you're talking about. Go ahead and try it.

The only way to cut power the the hot rail inside a breaker box is the pull the face on the electric meter. The only person who can do that is the electric company. The end.

If you need to install a circuit or change a breaker you do it hot. Read a fucking book.

Ok my Mexican pal. We have solved your problem.
1)Its a differential breaker for an "on suite". You Check the back of PSU, make sure nothing is different then required or your area. IF it has an "ECO" feature use it.
2) If nothing is different you are tripping on an imbalance not a load draw. PSU is fucked.A UPS will not help you, probably quite the opposite.
3) GFCI or differentials in residential applications are the satanic equivalent of a regular breaker and the person who invented them should have been shot.
-A GFCI can not run heaters,
-A GFCI can not large inductive loads with low resistance of ANY kind.
-A GFCI will register a strong breeze as a fault.

I suspected an on-suite see OPs original post. Sometimes engineers know what they talk about, sometimes. Other times we differ to electricians.

Yea...you're not US plus that's only a sub panel.
You're right though. It doesn't look like it has something like a GFI in it. That could only be a .5ma short. That would definitely be bad PSU or even just a short in the case.

GFI breaker could just be a little bit wonky and maybe you touching the computer with your wet finger or the power cord being loose or something. GFI is touchy shit.

Sorry, I forgot to mention, this is Arg. Electrical regulations in here are not that strict like America.

Can I open the PSU to check if some capacitor blowed up or is pointless?

If you're looking at a panel 'in a suite' it's a sub panel. The entire sub panel could be turned off from the main panel but flipping the main breaker in that sub panel will still leave you with hot bars inside that sub panel.
Flipping the breaker in the main panel for that sub panel is equivalent to pulling the meter face for the main panel.

Look if there is a 110 to 220v switch, loo

Arg? Argentina? Si es asi revisa si la fuente tiene un pequeño switch de 110v a 220v, me paso una vez algo muy parecido, se habia cambiado el switch a 110v, dios sabe como, lamentablemente la fuente se hizo mierda

You CAN...but most of the new stuff uses those japanese capacitors and you can't really tell if they went bad.
Also, it's usually pretty impossible to desolder and replace caps on the new stuff they cram so much in there now. Much easier/cheaper to just get a new PSU unless you already do component repair for fun.

Psu could be shorted. Breaker could also be going bad. That's your only options.

Way to test, plug your psu into another outlet, if it trips on startup, you know something in psu is shorted. If it doesnt trip, then you know your breaker is going bad

Actually you CAN run larger stuff on GFCI but yes, a strong breeze will trip the breaker.

I have 20a outdoor GFCI outlets. They run an air compressor and things fine. But if the grass is wet they won't do it that day. Or if you plug an extension cord in and lay the extension cord at the wrong angle then *bam*.

So if I do the PSU clip trick, I can check if this is just a PSU fault or a fucked up mobo?...

Same user, make sure you plug psu in an outlet that is not on the same breaker

Correct you have said what I meant to say, thank you, OP see his post. . I don;t Mexican but honestly I would advise you to get a non GFCI breaker if allowed in your country. No human being deserves a GFCI main for their unit.

Yes, Argentina.
Keeping ENG so other folks can understand:
The PSU doesn’t have a voltage switcher, at least, not exposed.

Attached: image.jpg (3264x2448, 1.54M)

Yeah, is what I though.. newer things don’t explode or leak so easily.
I can’t fix it if that’s the problem, but to discard PSU/mobo problem

Thank you guys for the patience and the knowledge... this problem came in the wrong economical time, so replacing everything is something that I can’t do atm. Now I know what to do. :)

Eh...maybe....
I mean...that might tell you if that PSU is fucked up, but it might be inconclusive simply because it won't put any load on the PSU. I'd give it a shot.
If you plug in the PSU with the paperclip trick and it blows your breaker then it's likely the PSU only and just get a new PSU.
Either way I won't keep turning the PC on repeatedly if it's blowing the breaker.

>Go ahead and try it.
More than try it, I've done it. So fuck you and your nigger level mental capacity.

>thermaltake TR2
>from 2012
Nigger that’s what’s wrong

Buy an actual nice power supply
Yours is 8 years old and was pretty mediocre even then

Take the psu out of the case, put a thin piece of cardboard into the case where the psu sits and then put the psu back in. I have had psu's start shorting against the case for no reason and I just insulated the PSU with a thin cardboard sheet and was good to go.